#  >  > Living And Legal Affairs In Thailand >  >  > Construction in Thailand >  >  Buying a village house to move to our land

## wimpy

We have been exploring various options for constructing a weekend cottage (on a budget) on our property in Lampang.



Looked at knock-down houses which seem pricey for what you get. We were just offered this one bedroom typical village house for 45,000 baht.  Can probably get it a bit cheaper.  It is just up the road, so transporting would be easy enough. It is built from hardwood - mai-taeng I think.  The wood appears sound, without insect damage.  Wondering what you all think of the price?







Our property already has a concrete foundation from a wood house that burned down before we bought the land. You can just see it in the upper right of this photo. It is just the right size for this house.  Haven't decided whether I would raise the house just  a meter for a breezway underneath, or go for headroom and build a workshop and kitchen downstairs. Probably the latter.



I don't care for the red stain.  Any suggestions for removing it, short of a whole lot of sanding?

Was also thinking of laying a plywood or MDF subfloor before relaying the hardwood planks.  Wondering which would be more resistant to insects - which are a serious problem in this area.

Appreciate you thoughts and suggestions.

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## DrAndy

It sounds an OK price except you don't get nice wooden columns

as long as the floorboards are good quality and as wide as possible...

as for the red stain, that will be removed by the carpenters when planing the wood down, which they like doing

you don't have much transport costs or bribery to get over state lines, which can be a pain - they could just get it over in a normal pickup, over a few days

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## DrAndy

> Was also thinking of laying a plywood or MDF subfloor before relaying the hardwood planks. Wondering which would be more resistant to insects - which are a serious problem in this area.


Insects love that man-made stuff, must be the glue!

why would you need the sub-floor anyway?

if you are really worried about insects, get them to paint each plank in anti-insect stuff before using; it costs a bit more but may be worth it

normally termites can be spotted in that type of house as they make little tunnels up to the house and can be destroyed

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## wimpy

Just thought it would make the floor stiffer and help keep the creepy crawlers out.  Also, I don't like seeing daylight through when the planks start expanding and contracting.

There are guys coming by all the time offering to get us big teak or mai-daeng posts for a couple thousand each.  Think they would have to be delivered at night.  :Sly:   I am hesitant because the house that burned had wood posts, and they were riddled with termite damage.

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## expattaffy

Sounds a good price to me mate. My wife wants to buy a completed wooden house from a company in Pack to chai who specialize in such houses, the cheapest with then is 200,000 baht

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## Mr Lick

My wife and her family bought (i paid) and dismantled a large wooden house some 20 kms away from their village for around the 200,000 baht mark. Can't recall the exact amount as it was over 7 years back.

We had a 4 bedroomed house built from the wood (mostly upper storey, huge wooden columns and real quality) and have had no problems since.

45,000 baht sounds a good price from what you have posted.  :Smile:

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## DrAndy

> I am hesitant because the house that burned had wood posts, and they were riddled with termite damage.


not teak then

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## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> I am hesitant because the house that burned had wood posts, and they were riddled with termite damage.
> 
> 
> not teak then


I think probably mai-taeng.  Hard as.  They were set in concrete.  The little bastards came up through the concrete and hollowed out the posts.

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## Thetyim

How about having concrete posts with wood cladding ?
Looks better than bare concrete posts.

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## Bangyai

Was thinking of doing the same and also found knockdowns way over the top.
This very small thing for 280, 000 !!




45,000 seems a pretty good price though compared to some I have seen up for sale on the following web site.

www.ddproperty.com 

160,000 for this :






or 65,000 for this




Nice looking plot of land you have there wimpy. Far from the maddening crowds.

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## DrAndy

> I think probably mai-taeng. Hard as. They were set in concrete


big mistake, the water gets in there and stays, then that attracts the termites

wooden posts should be set on top of any concrete post and held with a clamp and bolt

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## Mid

> Wondering what you all think of the price?


If you haven't bought it already let me know , I'll buy it now sight unseen .

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## aging one

Mid is correct its a steal. Only possible thing would be the insects. So give a down you dont mind losing and say you will pay after 4 hours work the first day cash. Then you will know.  Great deal. Wood is astronomical in price now. Plus its in the same province as has been mentioned.

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## Marmite the Dog

45k seems about right (for Isaan anyway).

We looked into buying an old place like that, but realised we'd end up replacing most of it, so we're doing it a different way instead. S'ok if it's only a weekend get-away though.

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## pet coon

Price should work ok, if the tear down crew takes care and doesn't tear up more than they can save to rebuild with. Its looks like it has had some add on from the original build. This may be different wood, thus the stain. As mentioned cement with wooden support bolted on works good. We did what your proposing and ended up putting new roof frame and panels due to damage on tear down and it was brittle from age.
good luck, appears to be a nice size for intended use.

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## Borey the Bald

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> I am hesitant because the house that burned had wood posts, and they were riddled with termite damage.
> 
> 
> not teak then


Mai-taeng (Shorea obtusa) is actually stronger and more durable than teak.  Because of its high oil content, it resists painting and treatment with preservatives.  Should virtually last forever if kept up off the ground.

I had to look up mai-taeng.  Never heard of it by that name up in Isaan.  This is from Wikipedia:


 This tree is known in the Thai language as เต็ง (teng), as ngae (แงะ) in the north and as จิก (chik) in Isaan. In Khmer it is known as ประจั๊ต (pra-chat) or ประเจิ๊ก (pra-choek) in the Surin and Buri Ram areas.

It's known commercially as "Taengwood Balau".


It's the provincial tree of Udon Thani.

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## robtherich

Remember to soak it before you dismantle it.

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## Carnwadrick

^ why soak it?

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## wimpy

> Originally Posted by DrAndy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by wimpy
> ...


Thanks for the info.   Always wondered about Mai Taeng (Teng). I thought it looked similar to what is marketed as Philippine Mahogany in the US.

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## wimpy

> ^ why soak it?


 :ditto:

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## wimpy

I think you have convinced me it should be bought.  Will make a closer inspection on Monday.  Cheers everyone.

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## Davis Knowlton

Great looking plot. I agree, buy it.

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## wimpy

> How about having concrete posts with wood cladding ?
> Looks better than bare concrete posts.


That could work.  I was also thinking dressing up the concrete posts by adding a layer of polished cement.  Could mix in some pigment which might look ok. Maybe a bullnose at the footing.

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## FailSafe

It's a house for the price of a nice television- it looks like you have a nice spot- unless it's completely rotten or termite-infested, how can you go wrong?

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## bushwacker

^ I agree with FailSafe.

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## expattaffy

> Remember to soak it before you dismantle it.


Need a big bowl for that :smiley laughing:

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## robtherich

> ^ why soak it?


Helps prevent splitting when they dismantle it. You'll save a lot of wood.

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## kiwinev

Got to be a good buy for that price. Check it out for bugs!

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## lounger

If you reset the floor the gaps will be minimal ( if the joiner tidies the edges) failing that use corking. 

I dont know what it is but I got a string of it its like white horse hair and easy to pull off enough strands, twist it and force it between the planks. Its natural so sticks together and doesnt unwind.  I got it in a rural village where they used it as stuffing. It was dirt cheep but bits came out eventually, although easy enough to push back.

A friend here used a silicone based filling compound. It was a dark colour and looked ok.

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## wimpy

Well gents, today spent some time looking over the house with a flashlight and tapping on timbers.  Couldn't find _any_ evidence of termite damage or rot.


 So..., I bought myself a house.  Managed to talk them down another 10,000 baht.  Sold, for 35,000 baht.  Will begin dismantling and moving it next week.


A few more detailed photos for your viewing pleasure.


















My next door neighbor just bought a couple of these freshly "harvested" mai daeng posts for 500 baht a piece.  Then he promptly stuck them in the dirt! Sigh.

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## Bangyai

> Managed to talk them down another 10,000 baht. Sold, for 35,000 baht. Will begin dismantling and moving next it week.


Wow ...... that is a steal. Better hurry up and move it before the real owners get back from their holiday  :Smile:

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## wilko

THose who have never lived in a wooden house fear termites the most.

Take a look at a few Queenslanders and you'll pick up some useful hints on protection. Termites cannot eat concrete although they will make "tunnels" along the surface.
They will LOVE to burrow up through any cladding.

Most Aussie houses have an upturned saucer arrangement at the top of the stumps - this is enough to confuse or deter most borers who make it up the stump. You also need to look into the type of wood and the most suitable proofing for it.

I don't like the look of the asbestos roofing though!!!!

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## wimpy

> THose who have never lived in a wooden house fear termites the most.
> I don't like the look of the asbestos roofing though!!!!


Will have to see how they survive the dismantling. They don't look so bad with fresh paint and wood battens under the eaves.  If I put a new roof on, it will be metal.

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## Happy Dave

> ^ why soak it?


He probably likes to soak everything when he's on the job.
Anyhow it sounds a good price  to me but living in the south could be different. You certainly need to keep those posts a couple of inches off the slab, it will be easy to get some stump brackets made up.
Good luck.

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## Happy Dave

[quote=wilko;1990639]THose who have never lived in a wooden house fear termites the most.

Take a look at a few Queenslanders and you'll pick up some useful hints on protection. Termites cannot eat concrete although they will make "tunnels" along the surface.
They will LOVE to burrow up through any cladding.

Most Aussie houses have an upturned saucer arrangement at the top of the stumps - this is enough to confuse or deter most borers who make it up the stump. You also need to look into the type of wood and the most suitable proofing for it.

I don't like the look of the asbestos roofing though!!!![/quote



Yep, i have an old timber house in Queensland, bloody termites everywhere, and each stump has one at the top where the floor joists sit. Made of thin galvanised steel to avoid rusting rusting, the dish like design points downward just in case any termites try to 'track' up. this stops the little bastards.   ::chitown::

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## Happy Dave

> Originally Posted by wilko
> 
> 
> THose who have never lived in a wooden house fear termites the most.
> I don't like the look of the asbestos roofing though!!!!
> 
> 
> Will have to see how they survive the dismantling. They don't look so bad with fresh paint and wood battens under the eaves.  If I put a new roof on, it will be metal.


Can you get 'Colourbond' roof cladding here, its an aluminium type material, and comes in a range of colours, once again avoiding eventual rusting as happens with corrogated steel.

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## wimpy

I think I read somewhere that there is a Colorbond distributor in Chiang Mai.

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## Happy Dave

[quote=wimpy;1990676]I think I read somewhere that there is a Colorbond distributor in Chiang Mai.[/quote

OK but too far north for me, i will just have a look around Samui, might find a distrubuter.

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## wimpy

robtherich knows what he is talking about.   The local woodworkers are telling me to wet it down for two days prior to disassembly.  Especially since rather large nails were used to attach the siding.  So that is what we're doing.  Deconstruction starts on Wednesday.  Sourced a local contractor to do the building.  Seems like a decent fellow. He and his crew are willing to work by the day rather than a fixed price for the job.  This is my preferred method based on several bad experiences in the past.

Here are some drawings I did of what I have in mind for my " budget country cottage".

On the first floor we have a workshop / storage room, and open air kitchen. It will be built from a combination of colorbond metal siding and Shera siding - as will the upstairs attached bath.


The three visible support posts will be 40cm diameter teak. They can be "procured" at a reasonable price. Just have to be sure to install them quickly.


This is the side that will face our teak plantation, fruit trees, rice fields, and the Northern Railway in the distance. 


The large covered balcony will be concrete and tiled with terracotta tiles.


Upstairs interior will be an open plan with an office and wet bar.  1/2 and 3/4 height walls will obscure the sleeping area when entering or sitting in the living area or on the balcony. Should still be able to enjoy the view while laying in bed.


More as it develops.  :Smile:

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## OhOh

Excellent buy, well done. Good luck with the tear-down, transport and rebuild.

Google sketchup is a great tool.

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## wimpy

Disassembly commenced at 8:00 a.m.



With 5 guys working on it, by the afternoon we had made a serious amount of progress. I was quite pleased, as there was almost no damage to the wood.  The workers were very sensitive to treating it properly.  The fact that they are being paid by the day, rather than the job, may have played a part.




My little Ford got a serious workout today. That wood is heavy!



The wood at its' new home. As soon as we remove all the nails, it will go into proper covered storage. Construction is scheduled to begin on Monday.

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## OhOh

^How many truckloads did you have?

The picture of the pile of wood, is that the total, if not have you a picture of the total amount when it arrived at you new site?

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## wimpy

We haven't finished.  Today we did about six truckloads including the roof tiles.  I figure we will do another two or three tomorrow.  Right now it is in several different piles, and I couldn't get it all in one photo.  Over the next couple days we will remove all the nails and stack it according to size.  I should be able to get a photo that shows it all then.

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## OhOh

Thanks, have you factored in the cost of a new truck? :Smile: 

It would be useful to see the amount of wood one could expect from an existing building.

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## dirtydog

^It's enough wood to make one of these.

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## OhOh

Yes,  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

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## wimpy

The form for the first concrete post goes up.


Steelwork for the concrete posts.

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## OhOh

The accepted "lap length" of reinforcing bars is 20 - 30 times the diameter of the rebar. Those in the 2nd photo look very short.

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## wimpy

Not sure I follow.  Are you talking about where the re-bar is attached at the base?  

What we are doing is welding the rebar to existing rabbit ears that were attached to wood posts supporting the previous house at this location. I feel confident that our home poured columns will be much stronger than the prefab ones that supported this house for the past 30 years or so.

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## OhOh

Yes that is what I am commenting about. You seem to be happy with the "welding" technique so I will accept it as well. :Smile:

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## wimpy

Got all the concrete posts poured and the first wood up.


The mai daeng posts are vertical. Those buggers are still wet, and super heavy.

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## DrAndy

this thread brings back nice memories

I think building a wooden house is a lot of fun; the carpenters are usually excellent and very inventive

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## grasshopper

Aaah! The scent of newly sawn wood in the air. Sighhh!

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## DrAndy

yep, over-rides the cesspit fumes

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## wimpy

Last night I dreamt there was an earthquake, and the whole thing came tumbling down.  The foreman says that is a good omen!

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## OhOh

> The foreman says that is a good omen!


Trust Budda you mean?

Did he run around checking the bolts?

Quality issues already, you wait until you are lying under a roof full of tiles/wood/steel on a wet dark stormy night and you hear a few creaks.

Oh the worry, the  pain, the joy when you wake up and it's still standing around you ........

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## wimpy

> Quality issues already, you wait until you are lying under a roof full of tiles/wood/steel and you hear a few creaks.
> 
> Oh the pain ........


Been there, and done that.  This house on the other hand, I think, will be quite sturdy.

Turns out there was an earthquake, but it was in the Philippines not Lampang.

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## DrAndy

> Oh the worry, the pain, the joy when you wake up and it's still standing around you ........


last year there was quite a big quake, it even created a tsunami in the pool sending the water over the edge

but the house had no problems, so that was a relief

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## OldNick

:Smile: Great design, i like the upstairs interior open plan with office idea, nice!

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## wimpy

The first upstairs post goes up.


Stopped in at the Hang Chat lumber mill. Like stepping back in time.


Beer thirty. The view from upstairs.

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## Marmite the Dog

Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like you're going to have a nice, bouncy floor.

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## wimpy

3 meter spans on 50cm centers. The joists feel pretty firm, but I suspect the planks will have some give to them. This is one of the reasons I have decided to go with a plywood sub-floor.

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## Marmite the Dog

> 3 meter spans on 50cm centers.


What size timbers? 1.5 x 6?

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## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> 3 meter spans on 50cm centers.
> 
> 
> What size timbers? 1.5 x 6?


The joists are 1.75 x 4. When I walked around the original house, it had a bit of spring to it.  This, plus the fact that I didn't like seeing daylight between the planks, led me to opt for a sub-floor underneath the planks. I figure it will also help keep out the large black ants that have a nasty bite.

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## OhOh

In post No. 60 the first photo, showing the beam to column connection of only one bolt, have you thought of doubling up to get some redundancy?

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## Marmite the Dog

> The joists are 1.75 x 4.


Yikes!

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## OhOh

Here is a joist spacing/sizing matrix which might be useful.

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## dirtydog

^Table assumes a minimum C16 structural grade timber.

How is that useful?

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## wimpy

I assume that table is referring to something like construction grade fir.  These timbers are way harder than that stuff. Gone through two circular saw blades already. Every wood house that I have looked at in the area has been built in this fashion.  We could certainly go with 6" timbers, which would mean a very expensive trip to the Hang Chat lumber yard, defeating the idea behind this build. I was at the lumber yard yesterday pricing 6" timbers for the roof.  Total cost to do the floor joists in 6" would be close to what I paid for the entire house.

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## DrAndy

> This is one of the reasons I have decided to go with a plywood sub-floor.


make sure it gets treated very well with anti-insect fluid



> I was at the lumber yard yesterday pricing 6" timbers for the roof.


unless you are going to use very heavy cement tiles, 4" timber (probably as you bought from the old house) are enough - then use the big corrugated sheet tiles

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## DrAndy

> showing the beam to column connection of only one bolt, have you thought of doubling up to get some redundancy?


the beam sits on the column, the bolt merely holds it in place. Redundancy will come from the floor planks

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## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> This is one of the reasons I have decided to go with a plywood sub-floor.
> 
> 
> make sure it gets treated very well with anti-insect fluid
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Will do on the Shelldrite.  I think it will be pretty easy to keep an eye on the insects, as they will have to come up the posts to get to the tasty plywood.

Actually the old house had 6" timber in the roof.  Unfortunately, the new house is slightly larger due to the existing foundation and the old timbers are too short.  The Puu Yai Baan was just here, and he can "source" us some new 6" timber for the roof at a bargain price.  :Wink:

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## DrAndy

if you are careful, you can just extend the old timbers (overlap and bolts), so then do not have to buy so much

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## DrAndy

> I think it will be pretty easy to keep an eye on the insects, as they will have to come up the posts to get to the tasty plywood.


yes, the termites but not the beetles

the edges of the ply are most important to protect

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## OhOh

> Originally Posted by OhOh
> 
> showing the beam to column connection of only one bolt, have you thought of doubling up to get some redundancy?
> 
> 
> the beam sits on the column, the bolt merely holds it in place. Redundancy will come from the floor planks


Very true.

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## kiwinev

Build is looking good. Hope you don't have to buy too much more timber.

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## wimpy

We originally used 4" posts for 5 of the upstairs posts because some of the 6" posts from the house we bought were too short for our purposes. I wasn't real happy about this, but didn't want to splurge on more 6" posts.  Today we pulled out the burnt 6" posts from the house that was originally on our property.  Had the chang remove the charring and plane them down. 


Surprise surprise, they are  beautiful mai pradu posts that will look great inside the house. Very happy that I will now have all 6" posts.


The floor planks have been lightly sanded in preparation for relaying.

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## Marmite the Dog

> Surprise surprise, they are beautiful mai pradu posts that will look great inside the house.


That was lucky - they look great.

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## nigelandjan

Fantastic mate to reuse and make good like that , here in the UK that would have been smashed to pulp and turned into bloody egg cartons by now.

  Seeing those planed boards , I can just imagine the sound of that power planer screaming away hour on hour , brings back memories of when my SIL'S new house got built eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa  awwww !

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## wimpy

Today I kept busy painting the freshly scrubbed roof tiles.  Initially I was spraying them, but my one lung "hobby" compressor was really not up to the task.  Switched to a brush, and things went much faster.  I figure it will take another day and a half to finish them.  Two coats of TOA roof paint per tile.

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## nigelandjan

^ nice one mate keep em coming were watching

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## Carrabow

Is that your dog Wimpy? Beautiful... wouldn't mind having one of the female pups.

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## wimpy

Yeah, that is Bobo.  He has been with us for 12 years.  Not really up  for breeding any more. He has never cared for dogs much anyway.  Thinks  he is human.





> Is that your dog Wimpy? Beautiful... wouldn't mind having one of the female pups.

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## bobo746

> Yeah, that is Bobo.


must be a great dog then.

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## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> Yeah, that is Bobo.
> 
> 
> must be a great dog then.


LOL. Indeed he is. Warming his old bones in the early morning sun.

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## DrAndy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> Yeah, that is Bobo.
> 
> 
> must be a great dog then.


 
his is model no. 786, much improved on the earlier ones

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## wimpy

After a 5 day hiatus for a village funeral, work resumed today. Got couple of the center roof supports up.


This gives an idea of the roof line. I think the proportions will be about right.


Hadn't realised how nice the view to the West is until I spent some time upstairs. Think I'll put in larger windows than originally planned to take advantage of it.

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## nigelandjan

Coming on mate , will you chop those trees back a bit to keep snakes out ?

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## wimpy

> Coming on mate , will you chop those trees back a bit to keep snakes out ?


Those are actually on the neighbour's property.  Telephoto lens makes them appear closer than they are.

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## sunsetter

cracking thread, keep it coming wimpy, nice dog btw

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## wimpy

Now it is starting to take shape.


Us as seen (with a long lens) from the Northern railroad.  Give a wave if you are going by!

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## nigelandjan

Looking good mate ,, is that early morning mist or smoke in your pics ?

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## wimpy

> Looking good mate ,, is that early morning mist or smoke in your pics ?


Smoke!  We're dying out here.  There are fires burning in all the national parks surrounding us.

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## OhOh

Thanks for the new pictures. The build looks promising, it's a pity about the smog/smoke but presumably it is an ongoing problem you were aware of?

How is your budget going, any cost overruns yet?

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## kiwinev

Looking better and better with each task finished. All that timber looks great. Big windows will be nice to take in the views.

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## wimpy

> Thanks for the new pictures. The build looks promising, it's a pity about the smog/smoke but presumably it is an ongoing problem you were aware of?
> 
> How is your budget going, any cost overruns yet?


Having lived in the North for many years, I am quite familier with the smoke problems.  This is without a doubt, the worst I have seen it.  Sure hope the rains come early this year.

So far the budget is fine.  Will have to see how we are doing after the windows, doors, electrical, and plumbing are finished.  All relatively big ticket items.

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## nigelandjan

I was fearful it was the smoke issue mate ,, we had a lovely night ruined in Purea cause of that before.

  Nevermind lovely thread mate ,, has a real Thai feel about this

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## can123

Is the "smoke problem" confined to the north west of Thailand or does it affect Isaan  as well, please ? Is it caused by burning sugar cane ?

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## wimpy

> Is the "smoke problem" confined to the north west of Thailand or does it affect Isaan  as well, please ? Is it caused by burning sugar cane ?


I can't comment on Isarn.  Here, we are in a valley surrounded by national parks and national forest.  People set them on fire.  :Sad:   Someone told me it was to encourage mushroom growth.

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## DrAndy

a lot of it is people clearing the secondary growth so they can plant crops

cue landslides

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## wimpy

Drove to Lampang city this morning for supplies.  The smoke in town was as bad or worse than where we are. Thick as, and miserable.


This evening climbing out of our valley, heading back to Chiang Mai, we came upon this.  :Sad:

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## Mathos

> Smoke! We're dying out here. There are fires burning in all the national parks surrounding us.


I remember it well.

Last time we were in Northern Thailand, it was choking us, 
especially out on the motorcycle.

This is a very interesting thread Wimpy.

It should be the _'Bees Knees'_ when you have it all finished.

Good luck, Green on the way.

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## nevets

We get hill / jungle fires in Tamairuak where i am but not as bad as that the smoke must go up in a draft dosent lay in the Phetch valley.

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## wimpy

Finally, the roof starts to go up - and we can see the mountains again.  Sweet.

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## DrAndy

nice colour

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## OhOh

^^How many of you will be living in the house when it's finished and will that be full time or just short visits?

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## wimpy

> ^^How many of you will be living in the house when it's finished and will that be full time or just short visits?


Two people, one dog.  I expect we will split our time between Lampang and Chiang Mai.  I wouldn't be surprised if we end up spending more time in Lampang than planned.  We are both happiest when there.

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## jizzybloke

Enjoying the thread, thanks Wimpy!

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## nigelandjan

A picture update would be good mate

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## wimpy

Work has been agonizingly slow.  Several funerals (parties), sick and injured workers, and one fellow leaving the site in a huff have conspired to slow progress.

                                  The roof is now complete. Had a huge storm blow through on Saturday.  The roof didn't leak, and the house didn't fall down. Whew!



                                  Today is a good day with a full crew and work ticking along nicely.  


                                  This is the underside of main floor, showing ply sub-floor and framing.


                                  The hardwood floor planks are being laid today.

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## OhOh

Moving along nicely. Good to see that no roof tiles flew away.

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## wimpy

Starting on the posts for the balcony.




Jackfruit leaves are added to the footings for good fortune.




I bought this very well seasoned teak from a neighbor.  It will be used for windows and doors.  200 baht each.

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## wimpy

The balcony support posts will all be tied together at ground level with concrete stringers.


A bit of wall framing is now visible.  Actually starting to look like something.  Monday the window/door capenter is supposed to arrive with his scary looking table saw.  It will be fun to watch him turn all that timber into windows and doors.  Total expenses to date, 119,048 baht.

----------


## Marmite the Dog

Looking good.

----------


## nigelandjan

Well done mate ' very similar to watching .my sil,s go up last year.

THat wood was a bloody bargain!

----------


## DrAndy

> This is the underside of main floor, showing ply sub-floor and framing.


I hope that ply has been treated against insects; if not, give it a good spraying

are you going to leave it exposed like that, it doesn't really fit in with the rest?

----------


## wimpy

It has been treated.  The back half of the first floor will be enclosed as a workshop, so it won't be visible.  The front half I was planning on using the same oil/shellac finish I plan to use on the rest of the house.  I could cover it with the bamboo ply that I plan to use for the interior ceiling and under the eaves, which would also help hide wiring and plumbing,  Will have to think about that.

----------


## wimpy

This is 3" insulation for the roof.  What about the walls?  I was thinking of just using foil backed gypsum.  How would that compare with fiberglass insulation? This house will not be air-conditioned.  Lots of ventilation and fans.

----------


## wimpy

Up goes the insulation.

----------


## benlovesnuk

I like it a lot.
Im interest to know, is the foil insulation in the roof to stop noise as well as heat?

what will you be using to seal it up from the inside? 

Remember vents in eaves.

If the mai ad (mdf) is teak it goes a nice colour when oiled no different to normal wood. 

Good luck.

----------


## wimpy

I am mainly doing it for the heat.  I like the sound of rain on the roof.  No aircon in this house, so I want keep as much radiant heat out as possible.

We will be lining the ceiling with bamboo ply.  Since the walls are going to be sheet rocked, I thought something more "natural" for the ceiling would be nice.

Cheers.

----------


## benlovesnuk

> This is 3" insulation for the roof.  What about the walls?  I was thinking of just using foil backed gypsum.  How would that compare with fiberglass insulation? This house will not be air-conditioned.  Lots of ventilation and fans.


If you are not going to clad with wood on the inside, you might be better in my opinion to single clad outside and keep it exposed on the inside. This does expose wires but the metal conduit looks ok with wood and is a better compromise. This would be much nicer than gyproc on the walls even if you plaster and paint. Wood will be sufficient if you are only using natural breeze and fans and not air con. IT was meant for this environment, just make sure trees and vegetation surround the property to improve natural cooling, as it looks like from picture.

It relates to my question about the insulation, because i wouldnt have used it if there is no aircon, unless of course its because of noise. although if you open windows and  have eaves vents this might not be such a problem.

----------


## wimpy

Personally, I like the look of rocked walls with wood trim.  I find that most "Thai" houses have too much wood in them for my taste.  I want to keep things bright and airy. With the wood floors, windows, doors, beams, posts, trim, and bamboo ceilings - there will be plenty of natural materials going on. IMHO.

In previous houses here I have found that the these composite roof tiles transfer a lot of heat.  Was also told the bamboo ply ceiling would compound the issue - as opposed to foil lined sheet-rock. It only cost 2500 baht to do the entire roof in R12 insulation.  Should stay nice and cool.

----------


## wimpy

Up goes the bamboo ply ceiling.  It will be finished with wood trim in 4 foot squares and then urethaned.

----------


## Thetyim

^
Whose that builder?
He can't be thai he's using a proper tool

----------


## DrAndy

^ they do have them nowadays!




> It relates to my question about the insulation, because i wouldnt have used it if there is no aircon, unless of course its because of noise. although if you open windows and have eaves vents this might not be such a problem.


Aircon has nothing to do with insulating the roof; I too used fibreglass to keep the heat out from the main room, it works well

----------


## wimpy

Ahem, that is my nail gun, and he is quite enjoying it.  :Razz:

----------


## benlovesnuk

> ^ they do have them nowadays!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by benlovesnuk
> 
> ...



I dont agree. if its for sun why not get a radiant barrier, filling a void is to insulate the air gap. Whilst it does do what your saying, its not the necessarily the best or most efficient way of stopping heat, which is why i asked about the sound insulation. which i can understand.
Secondly, if you didnt have aircon i see no reason at all to have any insulation in the roof. if you have open windows and fans thats all you need.
I have a roof with concrete tiles with no insulation apart from radiant barrier on the ceiling of gyproc, the area is free to vent hot air as necessary and it doesnt cost me anything. it also works well having added nothing. so maybe your result is true but it would have been the same either way.
If you have aircon, dont you need to insulate the surrounding area to stop leakage of the cool air making it more efficient, ie keeping that cool air in and maintaining air temp?

----------


## benlovesnuk

It cost me 3500 for gyproc with radiant barrier, because i agree with you, too much wood spoils the look of the house, and you need something bright. So we went for exposed wood beams and gyproc in-between. I dont like bamboo in wood houses the weave is too big to my taste and they always use wood to hide the seams which i dont like. Instead i finally found Rattan matt which has a lovely small weave almost like fabric, it looks great but is more expensive, about 1000 badt for 1.6m x 4.0m roll. 
Whatever my taste, i actually like the look in your house, maybe because you have cathedral ceilings?


I really would love to see the walls going up, so more pics please.

----------


## OhOh

> the area is free to vent hot air as necessary and it doesnt cost me anything.


How did you size and position the vents and would you have revised them now you've had them for a while?

----------


## benlovesnuk

There was a study done in which 2 identical houses had both radiant barriers, but one didnt have insulation and one did. They tested for 6 months 24/7 and found that the one WITHOUT insulation had a cooler attic. This was because it was discovered the lack of insulation was somehow cooling the attic by letting what heat there was escape with ventilation. Now, the only reason i was asking because i wanted to know if you needed it for sound insulation, but there you go.

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> There was a study done in which 2 identical houses had both radiant barriers, but one didnt have insulation and one did. They tested for 6 months 24/7 and found that the one WITHOUT insulation had a cooler attic. This was because it was discovered the lack of insulation was somehow cooling the attic by letting what heat there was escape with ventilation. Now, the only reason i was asking because i wanted to know if you needed it for sound insulation, but there you go.


You do post some complete bollocks on TD, don't you? Or is it another 'typo'?

Do you have a link for this or did you just pull it out of your arse?

----------


## benlovesnuk

> Originally Posted by benlovesnuk
> 
>  the area is free to vent hot air as necessary and it doesnt cost me anything.
> 
> 
> How did you size and position the vents and would you have revised them now you've had them for a while?



The vent is big it is basically an open space that has been latticed with wood to make big open holes as the roof space per m2 is big. We basically did as much of the gable as possible, because we werent using a machine but natural venting. At the moment i would say that at no point does the house, rooms or attic feel any different from the outside space. When the windows are open in the day the cross ventilation makes breezes flow through the house and can make it very pleasing and comfortable, sometimes chilly.
We have other tricks up our sleeves though, we can put a radiant barrier on the rafters too. We can also open up the stepped levels in the house, which at the moment we have closed. This will all be non mechanical natural ventilation, with the proper siting of house and winds.
I hope that helps however it is not actually technical. I believe the calculation is done 1" of vented space (not size of vent) to every 1' of roof.
Insulation i believe to not be necessary. And eave vents to allow moving air to circulate in the attic seems to have the job.

----------


## benlovesnuk

> Originally Posted by benlovesnuk
> 
> There was a study done in which 2 identical houses had both radiant barriers, but one didnt have insulation and one did. They tested for 6 months 24/7 and found that the one WITHOUT insulation had a cooler attic. This was because it was discovered the lack of insulation was somehow cooling the attic by letting what heat there was escape with ventilation. Now, the only reason i was asking because i wanted to know if you needed it for sound insulation, but there you go.
> 
> 
> You do post some complete bollocks on TD, don't you? Or is it another 'typo'?
> 
> Do you have a link for this or did you just pull it out of your arse?


So you keep saying. good luck with your build old chap. my house is performing as it should, so obviously you're right.

----------


## benlovesnuk

^ Sarcasm

----------


## DrAndy

> I dont agree. if its for sun why not get a radiant barrier, filling a void is to insulate the air gap. Whilst it does do what your saying, its not the necessarily the best or most efficient way of stopping heat, which is why i asked about the sound insulation. which i can understand. Secondly, if you didnt have aircon i see no reason at all to have any insulation in the roof. if you have open windows and fans thats all you need.


it would depend on the construction

in my wooden house I just have the tiles and wood panelling inside, so I used the foil roll. The roof gets very hot but the foil keeps most of the heat out

unless the house is a completely open sided structure, any heat from the roof will make the house hotter than expected, unless you have a good breeze

so, a foil barrier does work, but the fibreglass works better; the two together are excellent, if you have the budget. I have used them both in my new apartment build and it stays cool, and that is for a concrete structure

----------


## DrAndy

> There was a study done in which 2 identical houses had both radiant barriers, but one didnt have insulation and one did. They tested for 6 months 24/7 and found that the one WITHOUT insulation had a cooler attic. This was because it was discovered the lack of insulation was somehow cooling the attic by letting what heat there was escape with ventilation


 
I suppose if you wanted to live in the attic, that would be interesting

In London I have insulation on the floor of the attic to stop any heat escaping from the house; it works in summer too, the attic getting hot but not the rooms beneath

----------


## wimpy

There is still an air gap between the insulation and the roof tiles - it is not completely filled with insulation.  We put in plastic grates that fill the space between the raised parts of the roof tile and the eave boards.  This gives us vents all along the the edge, where roof tiles meet the eave boards.  This should allow a flow of air above the insulation.

----------


## DrAndy

sounds efficient

----------


## Necron99

> ^
> Whose that builder?
> He can't be thai he's using a proper tool


Offset by the flipfops and lack of scaffold.

----------


## benlovesnuk

> There is still an air gap between the insulation and the roof tiles - it is not completely filled with insulation.  We put in plastic grates that fill the space between the raised parts of the roof tile and the eave boards.  This gives us vents all along the the edge, where roof tiles meet the eave boards.  This should allow a flow of air above the insulation.


Im not saying i know, im spewing things out, that im trying to find out actual answers to. you seem highly knowledgeable and have a very good set of building practices. Your house looks great. well thought out.
Is there a radiant barrier on the foil?
My only reason for asking was that radiant barriers in wood houses seem to make  more sense in my opinion, and i dont know anything about the foil you have used.
If you would be so kind, as i might use this stuff next time as i see it in global.

----------


## benlovesnuk

> Originally Posted by benlovesnuk
> 
> There was a study done in which 2 identical houses had both radiant barriers, but one didnt have insulation and one did. They tested for 6 months 24/7 and found that the one WITHOUT insulation had a cooler attic. This was because it was discovered the lack of insulation was somehow cooling the attic by letting what heat there was escape with ventilation
> 
> 
>  
> I suppose if you wanted to live in the attic, that would be interesting
> 
> In London I have insulation on the floor of the attic to stop any heat escaping from the house; it works in summer too, the attic getting hot but not the rooms beneath


It would seem that your mockery was valid but for the reason of why it works. radiant barriers reduce 97% of thermal radiance through conduction when properly installed. Most people recommend batt insulation in between the floor joists and then radiant barriers on the rafters. However these are mostly for places with cold and hot climates. tropical climates like our own, as far as i can tell no one has a specific answer. But it seems that no insulation is needed and maybe preferred with just a radiant barrier. Which is why i asked and held my position from my question. im happy to be wrong if someone can tell me through trial that i am. Everything else suggests otherwise to me at the moment.

For example it might be better not in WIMPYS case, becuase he has cathedral ceilings but those of us with a drop down ceiling could use radiant barriers on both rafters and top side of ceiling like with gyproc. 
 (To wimpy)
Does the foil give you any sound insulation as you went with 3" thickness or was that not why you bought it?

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> im happy to be wrong


Yes, we noticed.

----------


## benlovesnuk

> Originally Posted by benlovesnuk
> 
> I dont agree. if its for sun why not get a radiant barrier, filling a void is to insulate the air gap. Whilst it does do what your saying, its not the necessarily the best or most efficient way of stopping heat, which is why i asked about the sound insulation. which i can understand. Secondly, if you didnt have aircon i see no reason at all to have any insulation in the roof. if you have open windows and fans thats all you need.
> 
> 
> it would depend on the construction
> 
> in my wooden house I just have the tiles and wood panelling inside, so I used the foil roll. The roof gets very hot but the foil keeps most of the heat out
> 
> ...


I think what i understand is that both your home and Wimpys are cathedral ceilings where there is no attic and this is what is best to use.
 However in your other house that is concrete i also understand what your saying. however i believe if you're not worried about noise, taking them out would make it cooler.
I could be wrong, but i dont think i am. because the greater part of heat radiance into a home is conduction, you have found that using a radiant barrier on the floor would have stopped this even more so, if it was not necessary for sound insulation. What im trying to say is, its not a straight forward answer there are lots of implications to insulation, not just heat, but if it is just heat mass insulation in the roof is not as ideal in a wood house with attic space. so im lead to believe.

But now we know you both dont have them my point is useless.

----------


## benlovesnuk

> Originally Posted by benlovesnuk
> 
> im happy to be wrong
> 
> 
> Yes, we noticed.


how scalding you are sir, you know how to hurt a fellows feelings.

Prove to me where and of course i can accept it, saying it so doesnt make it true.

----------


## DrAndy

> What im trying to say is, its not a straight forward answer there are lots of implications to insulation, not just heat


yes, just heat; nobody is insulating against sound which, essentially, needs a 6" gap between boards/glass for the best result

----------


## DrAndy

> I could be wrong, but i dont think i am. because the greater part of heat radiance into a home is conduction


blimey Ben, you really don't know how to phrase what you are thinking very clearly

I presume you mean that a lot of the heat coming into a home comes through the mass of the roof and walls?

If you then insulate those masses, one way or another, then that heat will not come through

the roof can be isolated, either with the thin foil rolled stuff (which also has a layer of fibreglass inside), or with the thicker fibreglass rolls, which can also be bagged in foil

the thinner stuff is ideal for laying under the tiles, the thicker for the spaces between the joists, or just laying on a flat ceiling

the walls can be isolated, or rather not take up the heat, by using QCON blocks, or shading

----------


## benlovesnuk

^ Then we are both right hurray. Thank goodness for that. i have no idea what youu mean about sound insulation, boards and glass youve lost me.

----------


## DrAndy

> i have no idea what youu mean about sound insulation, boards and glass youve lost me.


I did think you had no idea about sound insulation from your posts

----------


## benlovesnuk

here you go, "because the greater part of heat radiance into a home is by conduction, you might  have found that using a radiant barrier on the floor would have stopped  this even more so (if it was not necessary for sound insulation).

----------


## benlovesnuk

> Originally Posted by benlovesnuk
> 
> I could be wrong, but i dont think i am. because the greater part of heat radiance into a home is conduction
> 
> 
> I presume you mean that a lot of the heat coming into a home comes through the mass of the roof and walls?
> 
> If you then insulate those masses, one way or another, then that heat will not come through
> 
> ...


No, thats not what i am saying. Im trying to understand the reason for using a insulated foil for reducing heat transfer. I get and understand what you have said, we know it works, i was just explaining that i dont think insulation batts or mass insulation are as necessary in a wood house with natural cooling and vents.
I then asked was it for sound insulation, trying to ask a question to get an answer and insight.
Very simple.
Ive over complicated the situation so ill stop.

----------


## benlovesnuk

> Originally Posted by benlovesnuk
> 
> I could be wrong, but i dont think i am. because the greater part of heat radiance into a home is conduction
> 
> 
> blimey Ben, you really don't know how to phrase what you are thinking very clearly
> 
> I presume you mean that a lot of the heat coming into a home comes through the mass of the roof and walls?
> 
> ...





> Originally Posted by benlovesnuk
> 
> i have no idea what youu mean about sound insulation, boards and glass youve lost me.
> 
> 
> I did think you had no idea about sound insulation from your posts


i havent posted anything about sound insulation, maybe thats why you think you do. i would disagree again. your statement would ring false with anyone who seriously understood the affects of sounds transmissions through objects, and how to reduce them effectively. But this is not this thread so we might as well stop with the dignitaries. Its a shame you will point out others peoples sarcasm's and undoings on topics, but feel helpless but to do the same. :mid:  

It was a sincere question, to understanding something. you show me the proof of what you have said for a tropical climate with wood house and i will accept it. i doubt you will be able to, not because its not true, but simply because its not understood that well.

I dont know why it fires up the folks here to be given an opposite point of view, i wasnt selling him something, i wasnt criticizing him, like those who have done with pure delight to me. you show me where in a study, i will believe you, and can accept that im wrong. 

everyone is really uptight arent they, must be an age thing.

----------


## wimpy

> Im not saying i know, im spewing things out, that im trying to find out actual answers to. you seem highly knowledgeable and have a very good set of building practices. Your house looks great. well thought out.
> Is there a radiant barrier on the foil?
> My only reason for asking was that radiant barriers in wood houses seem to make  more sense in my opinion, and i dont know anything about the foil you have used.
> If you would be so kind, as i might use this stuff next time as i see it in global.


Ha! Definitely no expert.  I do have experience from two previous building projects in Thailand, where I learned a lot of things NOT to do again.

I just assumed the foil was a "radiant barrier", reflecting the energy back to its' source.  Am I confused?

----------


## benlovesnuk

no. you're not confused, and i get what you have done now. But i just didnt get the foil against the normal film like stuff. There was never a case of it not working, and it seems for the cost that it works well. i was just trying to discover the reason behind it, that others seem to have a certain idea about, which is based on cold warm climates not tropical ones. Both are right, but maybe one can work just as well and give higher performance or efficiency levels. 
Moving on, im looking forward to the walls. Thanks for the help with the oil and finishing.

----------


## wimpy

Received a groggy phone call from my contractor this morning to tell me he wasn't coming in - yet again.  This was after him telling me just yesterday that he wouldn't be taking any more breaks.  Sigh..., I've about had it with him.  Think I am going to look for another team. So, I spent the day at the table saw ripping wood into strips to trim out the ceiling.  I'm covered in sawdust and feeling quite grumpy.

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> others seem to have a certain idea about, which is based on cold warm climates not tropical ones.


In cold climates insulation is used to keep heat in the home (and make it more efficient to mechanically heat), in hot climates it's used to keep heat out of the homes (and make it more efficient to mechanically cool).

Is that simple enough for you to understand?





> I did think you had no idea about sound insulation from your posts


Nor much else.

----------


## wimpy

Now I feel better.  :Wink:

----------


## jaiyenyen

Good choice, and well deserved.
I'm enjoying your build, good luck with it.

----------


## benlovesnuk

> Originally Posted by benlovesnuk
> 
>  others seem to have a certain idea about, which is based on cold warm climates not tropical ones.
> 
> 
> In cold climates insulation is used to keep heat in the home (and make it more efficient to mechanically heat), in hot climates it's used to keep heat out of the homes (and make it more efficient to mechanically cool).
> 
> Is that simple enough for you to understand?
> 
> ...


oh marmite you are a simple bean arent you. That is great. Read the thread and then come back. its great that you feel you have an answer, shame its not to what we are talking about(mechanical cooling -really). At least you understand how its all done. haha

you're the type of person who feels they know everything, but you cant even read the question or the context, you're lost old chap.

----------


## benlovesnuk

Remember that in the North, this can be typical behaviour. They wont come to work in rain, even if the work is inside. They will take every funeral of a friends day off which is numerous for me because they are all old men. My labourer's dont even drink, i trust them now ive been working with them for almost 2 years. But they will take every opportunity sometimes to not come to work. Not like Issan builders.

----------


## ChrisInCambo

In our house I used the 3" fiberglass roles with the silver stuff on the outside, I never really gave much thought to what role each material played other than "stops it getting hot", but this thread has thrown me back to high school science and made me remember the different types of heat transfer, i.e. convection, conduction and radiation.

So now I'm guessing that the silver foil is there to prevent the heat that's radiating from the tiles/sun, whilst the fiberglass is a barrier to prevent the air inside being heated by the air outside (convection). So now I'm guessing that a house that is going to be sealed and air-conditioned is would be a good idea to use the foil and fiberglass as we don't want our cool air inside being cooled by the warm air outside, but in a house where you are planning to cool it through ventilation it's a waste of time as you're already letting the hot air in through the vents and windows.

Does that sound correct?

----------


## Thetyim

> Does that sound correct?


Yes, except for this bit "we don't want our cool air inside being cooled by the warm air outside"

----------


## ChrisInCambo

> Yes, except for this bit "we don't want our cool air inside being cooled by the warm air outside"


Bugger, back to the drawing board ;-)

----------


## benlovesnuk

The statement was not, that one does not work and one does. But that with due consideration, nothing is gained in this climate with natural ventilation from insulation in the ceiling. However with aircon this makes more sense, but is in my mind limited to this or to some kind of sound insulation from the roof. The reason was posed after i couldn't understand why foil with a thickness of 3" was necessary. Wimpy said it was cheap, which is good, and seems to give him an r value of 12 i believe.
Dr.A and Wimpy both, have cathedral ceilings in their wood houses, of which wimpy's is going to be using natural ventilation and electric fan. Now in this application, it will work, very well and that wasnt the point of my questioning.
It was to understand if someone could give me a real reason, other than "accept it because i say so," to which no one has so far. my point is not to say the opposite for arguments sake, but have a fundamentally objective point about what is true.
Regardless of whether i am right or wrong, or as marmite so kindly refers to my posts as "a deluge of bullshit", i am happy to be proved wrong, as i do not hold onto my opinions like some as i do the truth.
So far all i have said is;
radiant barrier in a wood house, with ceiling and therefor attic will benefit further by just using a radiant barrier, and has no need for batt insulation, as significant gains will not be improved. You can put it in, with no improved impact to the cooling effect of the house, it will just add cost but not efficiency. I wont go as far to say therefore it could have a negative affect because there doesnt seem to be a practical situation where that is true, from peoples accounts here.
I hope this makes sense.

----------


## wimpy

A couple shots from today.




The bamboo ply is growing on me.  I had my doubts at first, being someone who likes his clean white surfaces.  Once it is trimmed and finished, I think I might like it.  Definitely a quick and affordable way to finish a ceiling.

----------


## Necron99

> A couple shots from today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bamboo ply is growing on me.  I had my doubts at first, being someone who likes his clean white surfaces.  Once it is trimmed and finished, I think I might like it.  Definitely a quick and affordable way to finish a ceiling.


the floor is going to be amazing.
jury out on the bamboo.

----------


## benlovesnuk

If you dont put wood stringers on it and find something to seal the seams that is less in your face, i think the bamboo is good. As soon as you put wood on it, it will ruin the look in my opinion. My wife thinks wood would look fine, she laughed at my metal idea.

----------


## OhOh

> The bamboo ply is growing on me. I had my doubts at first, being someone who likes his clean white surfaces. Once it is trimmed and finished, I think I might like it. Definitely a quick and affordable way to finish a ceiling.


Your new house is getting better looking with every post you make, and you are keeping to your budget. That's an achievement.

I will not enter the "insulation" question but am interested in the "bamboo ply". Is this layers of wood glued together like ordinary plywood that has a bamboo decorative layer.  Or is it just a single "mat" of plywood with no wood layers?

----------


## DrAndy

> but in a house where you are planning to cool it through ventilation it's a waste of time as you're already letting the hot air in through the vents and windows.


yes, but the hot roof will make the house much warmer; even with your windows and doors open, if there is little or no wind, the heat will quickly build up

insulating the roof will help a lot, as I have found in my wooden "cathedral" roof house. It stays quite cool even when there is little wind

I suppose if there is a good breeze then any heat from the roof (and it does het HOT) will be blown out

the only roof I have not insulated is the one on my concrete house as it is almost freestanding without any walls or windows to obstruct air movement

----------


## ChrisInCambo

> yes, but the hot roof will make the house much warmer; even with your windows and doors open, if there is little or no wind, the heat will quickly build up


But isn't that heat radiated heat which is primarily stopped by the foil rather than the fiberglass?

For example I have a veranda in my garden which is completely open air, on really hot days I can feel the heat radiating from the hot tiles above. In this scenario the I think the foil would be effective, but fiberglass would do next to nothing.

What I'm trying to establish is whether the foil & fiberglass insulation is always best, or whether their are some applications just foil alone will do just as well. Mainly because I'm planning a wood house (other thread) with cathedral style ceilings and don't want to waste money on something if it's of limited benefit.

p.s I'm going to go against the flow and say that I like the bamboo, it gives a really nice rustic/tropical feel.

----------


## wimpy

> I will not enter the "insulation" question but am interested in the "bamboo ply". Is this layers of wood glued together like ordinary plywood that has a bamboo decorative layer.  Or is it just a single "mat" of plywood with no wood layers?


The 3 1/2mm variety appears to be two layers of bamboo mat glued and pressed together.  I don't know what is inside the 5mm variety.

Front


Back

----------


## wimpy

Trimmed.

----------


## Necron99

> Originally Posted by DrAndy
> 
> yes, but the hot roof will make the house much warmer; even with your windows and doors open, if there is little or no wind, the heat will quickly build up
> 
> 
> But isn't that heat radiated heat which is primarily stopped by the foil rather than the fiberglass?
> 
> For example I have a veranda in my garden which is completely open air, on really hot days I can feel the heat radiating from the hot tiles above. In this scenario the I think the foil would be effective, but fiberglass would do next to nothing.
> 
> ...



Thats my understanding. Broadly, if yu want to keep heat or cold IN use glass or foam, if you want to keep heat out and allow quick natural cooling just use foil. 

I don't dislike the bamboo, just need to see it in context with the interior walls I think.

----------


## benlovesnuk

It looks nice, its natural (bonus) i think if you can get a stain or oil finish to make it still light inside, but a little darker to match it might not stand out as much - my opinion.
Bamboo is certainly wonderful stuff. Now you need the swinging bamboo hammock downstairs and that G &T in a pint glass.

----------


## wimpy

Regarding the insulation... I just climbed up and put my hand against the bamboo under the eave where there is no insulation.  Very toasty.  Inside, where it is insulated, it is just slightly warm to the touch.  Seems to be doing its' job.

----------


## wimpy

> It looks nice, its natural (bonus) i think if you can get a stain or oil finish to make it still light inside, but a little darker to match it might not stand out as much - my opinion.
> Bamboo is certainly wonderful stuff. Now you need the swinging bamboo hammock downstairs and that G &T in a pint glass.


At the factory they showed me some that had been up for a while.  It turns darker and redder with age.

----------


## Necron99

> Originally Posted by benlovesnuk
> 
> 
> It looks nice, its natural (bonus) i think if you can get a stain or oil finish to make it still light inside, but a little darker to match it might not stand out as much - my opinion.
> Bamboo is certainly wonderful stuff. Now you need the swinging bamboo hammock downstairs and that G &T in a pint glass.
> 
> 
> At the factory they showed me some that had been up for a while.  It turns darker and redder with age.



How flammable is it?

----------


## wimpy



----------


## Marmite the Dog

Looks really good. A nice bit of plasterboard on the walls for contrast and Bob's yer uncle.

----------


## hillbilly

Marmers,

Remember our guest house? Same kind of ceiling and still going strong...

----------


## wimpy

Wish I had some walls!  The chang says he likes to work from the top down on a wood house.  So, I guess the walls should be next.

----------


## OhOh

Very tasty finish with the small strips. Great idea. Thanks for the reply re the bamboo ply.

----------


## OhOh

> This gives us vents all along the the edge, where roof tiles meet the eave boards. This should allow a flow of air above the insulation.


Have you vents at the top, the roof ridge, to allow the air to exit? 

Also, I may have missed it, have you painted any type of sealant on the bamboo ply?

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> This gives us vents all along the the edge, where roof tiles meet the eave boards. This should allow a flow of air above the insulation.
> 
> 
> Have you vents at the top, the roof ridge, to allow the air to exit? 
> 
> Also, I may have missed it, have you painted any type of sealant on the bamboo ply?


No. I haven't found any suitable vents to use at the top.  Suggestions?

Will be coating the bamboo with matte urethane.  Need to fill all the nail holes in the trim first.

----------


## OhOh

> No. I haven't found any suitable vents to use at the top. Suggestions?


Sorry no, my experience has been with clay and concrete tiles. Both of which offer a ridge vent which I would have thought would be available in a "metal" option.
That would allow the "warmed " air to rise to the ridge and then exit; causing a continuous flow of "cooling" air under the roof sheets.

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> Marmers,
> 
> Remember our guest house? Same kind of ceiling and still going strong...


I remember Ned farting like a trooper, if that's any help.

----------


## DrAndy

> I remember Ned farting like a trooper, if that's any help.





> That would allow the "warmed " air to rise to the ridge and then exit


sometimes not quick enough

----------


## wimpy

Needed some cheap 8 inch timber to build the forms for the balcony and bathroom.  My chang took me to this backyard sawmill outside of Hang Chat.  I love these kinds of places.  :Smile:

----------


## nigelandjan

^ Smell lovely don't they ? my mates got a sawmill I love to potter about in there ,, putting some wood through the thicknesser etc .

  The old UK elf + safety brigade would just love to shut that down with that exposed saw blade lol

----------


## wimpy

This ties the balcony footings together.



I think we'll fill it in with good soil and plant shade loving plants - ferns and such.



Structurally this wasn't necessary, but I thought some bracing would entertain the eyes.



Rain storm is just blowing through now. Still no leaks, which is always a relief.

----------


## Carrabow

I absolutely love this idea, you gave me an idea for one of my future builds Wimpy. When you get a chance I have a thread call Rural Surin...

----------


## wimpy

> I absolutely love this idea, you gave me an idea for one of my future builds Wimpy. When you get a chance I have a thread call Rural Surin...


I was just reading your thread.  Amazing project!

----------


## nigelandjan

Its all looking very professional and well put together mate ,, very neat finish

----------


## OhOh

A question about your timber posts. 

You have  a mix of timber and concrete post from the ground slab to the first floor. You then have timber posts up to say the eaves level. Then have the timber posts extended to reach the roof ridge and support the ridge beam.

The post which support the ridge beam seems to have been offset rather than continued up vertically from the timber posts below.

Was there a reason for that or just available post length that required it?

----------


## wimpy

> A question about your timber posts. 
> 
> You have  a mix of timber and concrete post from the ground slab to the first floor. You then have timber posts up to say the eaves level. Then have the timber posts extended to reach the roof ridge and support the ridge beam.
> 
> The post which support the ridge beam seems to have been offset rather than continued up vertically from the timber posts below.
> 
> Was there a reason for that or just available post length that required it?


Very observant. All the houses in this area are built this way.  The ground floor post is on center. The second floor post fits in between the two 2x6" planks, so it has to be offset to clear the ground floor post (regardless of whether the ground floor post is concrete or a log). Then the support that go up to the ridge beam is offset to be centered with the ground floor post. This centers the roof to the ground floor posts.

----------


## Davis Knowlton

Really looking great, Wimpy. Congratulations; very professional. Can't wait to see the finished product!

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> Originally Posted by OhOh
> 
> 
> A question about your timber posts. 
> 
> You have  a mix of timber and concrete post from the ground slab to the first floor. You then have timber posts up to say the eaves level. Then have the timber posts extended to reach the roof ridge and support the ridge beam.
> 
> The post which support the ridge beam seems to have been offset rather than continued up vertically from the timber posts below.
> 
> ...


Indeed they do. This is where I intend to rock the boat as it is a crap way to do things structurally. I'll probably lose the argument though and they'll carry on making a dog's dinner of it as they always do.

----------


## Necron99

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by OhOh
> ...



Seems unnecessary and looks naff.

----------


## wimpy

Balcony posts get poured.

----------


## OhOh

> Very observant. All the houses in this area are built this way


With all your photos it's easy to find an new item to discuss. Thanks, and keep up your commentary.

----------


## nigelandjan

The lines all look very clean and crisp and professional  for Thais Wimpy ,, are you sure they're legal   :mid:  ?

----------


## Carrabow

> Balcony posts get poured.


Looks great Wimpy, you are also achieving more shaded area to beat the summer heat, to include more living area.  :Smile:

----------


## DrAndy

> you are also achieving more shaded area to beat the summer heat, to include more living area


I can never understand people building houses in Thailand without decent sized outside areas; it is where most of the time will be spent

----------


## Bettyboo

^ cheaper and more functional; especially if your 'upcounty' and have plenty of land to play with. Agree.

----------


## OhOh

You seem to be building more concrete posts than wooden posts. In post 112 you picture some post with you say cost 200bht each. Surely the concrete, labour and steel is more than that?

----------


## wimpy

My three mai dang wood posts ended up costing 1000 baht each.  200 baht a post was a pipe dream. The balcony and bath are going to be concrete, so it makes sense to go with concrete posts as well.  They will look good when finished.  The other six concrete posts will not be visible. Stay tuned.

----------


## OhOh

Ah that's made more sense.

----------


## jizzybloke

Coming along well, I like it!

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> you are also achieving more shaded area to beat the summer heat, to include more living area
> 
> 
> I can never understand people building houses in Thailand without decent sized outside areas; it is where most of the time will be spent


Then you will like my Thai Kitchen when I get to that timeline...


Wimpy has given me some great ideas when I get ready to help my son with his build.

----------


## wimpy

Well, songkran is _finally_ over, and work is slowly coming back to life.  All the bath and balcony posts have been poured and now the forms for the horizontal beams are are nearly finished.  The whole thing is looking rather massive and overbuilt to me, but he assures me it is built to "standard".

----------


## OhOh

^Did you have any structural calculations done for the concrete structures or does the builder design them himself?

----------


## nigelandjan

Looks all very solid ,, mind you the OP does have a good name for a builder  :Smile:

----------


## wimpy

> ^Did you have any structural calculations done for the concrete structures or does the builder design them himself?


No.  I gave the builder a rough sketch of what I wanted.  He knows I am not interested in skimping when it comes to structural integrity.  The size of the posts and beams, and the amount of steel are what he would normally use when building a two storey brick house. Seems like a bit of overkill for a balcony and the bathroom (which will be pretty light weight with Colorbond walls).  He says it will add strength to the house because several of the balcony and bath posts are tied into the main house posts with re-bar.

----------


## hillbilly

My sugestion is to render the concrete poles to make them look like trees. I have done this many of times and it looks great.

----------


## Necron99

> My sugestion is to render the concrete poles to make them look like trees. I have done this many of times and it looks great.


really? Does it not come out looking a bit naff,especially up close?

----------


## wimpy

I intend to do a polished pigmented cement finish on the posts.  Similar to this, but with more red pigment.

----------


## nigelandjan

^ Your a clever lad Wimpy

----------


## DrAndy

> Originally Posted by hillbilly
> 
> 
> My sugestion is to render the concrete poles to make them look like trees. I have done this many of times and it looks great.
> 
> 
> really? Does it not come out looking a bit naff,especially up close?


 
I think so but each to his own

----------


## DrAndy

> I intend to do a polished pigmented cement finish on the posts. Similar to this, but with more red pigment.


nice idea, and good you can find someone skilled enough

----------


## OhOh

> My sugestion is to render the concrete poles to make them look like trees. I have done this many of times and it looks great.


Would you be able to post some photos and describe your technique after all it is only the end product most of us really interested.

----------


## OhOh

^^^^^ Has that sink and tap a "bronze" finish or is it just the photo/ my eyes?

----------


## wimpy

> ^^^^^ Has that sink and tap a "bronze" finish or is it just the photo/ my eyes?


No, it is stainless.  Probably the warm light reflecting off the yellow cement.

----------


## Marmite the Dog

Looking excellent.

----------


## wimpy

The window man is here making frames.  He does nice work.

----------


## Necron99

> The window man is here making frames.  He does nice work.




That's a nice join.

----------


## nigelandjan

^ I have studied that pic and can't make my mind up as to how that joint has been formed ,, ??  its obviously a 45 degree mitre , but how would you cut that without going right through ? looks like the end bit has been stuck back on again ( almost ) lol

      Good to see he is using some good old sash cramps to keep it all nice and tight

   The old handsaw has been out in the rain

----------


## Necron99

> ^ I have studied that pic and can't make my mind up as to how that joint has been formed ,, ??  its obviously a 45 degree mitre , but how would you cut that without going right through ? looks like the end bit has been stuck back on again ( almost ) lol
> 
>       Good to see he is using some good old sash cramps to keep it all nice and tight
> 
>    The old handsaw has been out in the rain



There are two 45 deg tongues, one on each side of the vertical, on the outside and a flat join in the middle so it fits in like a U shape. Very neat.

----------


## nigelandjan

So your saying that cut dosent go right through yeah ? 

 Presumably done very carefully with a handsaw cutting from the wide side of the wood ,, its difficult enuf to cut it from the top to achieve such a nice cut , he must be a tidy carpenter

----------


## wimpy

> So your saying that cut dosent go right through yeah ? 
> 
>  Presumably done very carefully with a handsaw cutting from the wide side of the wood ,, its difficult enuf to cut it from the top to achieve such a nice cut , he must be a tidy carpenter


That is correct.  I'm not sure how he did the cuts.  Unfortunately, I wasn't there at the time.  I am very pleased with his work.  The labor for one frame as shown was just 250 baht. I supplied the teak.  So maybe 500 baht in total. A similar frame at Global House, made from Mai Taeng and not nearly as nice, will cost you about 1300 baht.

----------


## OhOh

He must have sharp saws as well, always a help for a good cut.

----------


## nigelandjan

^ Not only that Wimpy you also have the window custom made to size on site , instead of working round the stock off the shelves windows .

  I did have a quick look at some of the windows on the shelf in Home pro in Udon a little while back , and you would have to sort through a few to find some running reasonably true.

   Just as an aside I was delivering on a site in Watford today where they were actually  making the roof trusses on site ,, and I mean proper jointing not just nailing them poxy multi use plates all over them.  It was a joy to see craftsmen at work , and a bonus they spoke English  :Smile:

----------


## DrAndy

> and a bonus they spoke English


they are clever, those Johnny foreigners

----------


## Necron99

I didn't think proper trusses were done here.
Why do we have all this suspended ceiling and 3.5 meter pillar crap.

----------


## DrAndy

don't know

maybe cheap

----------


## Bangyai

Yes , very nice looking joints to those window frames. 

If I were having window frames made up again I would ask the carpenter to include a bevelled sill at the bottom to allow rain run off. Even better if you can have the underside of the sill grooved to stop rain water seaping in through the window / wall joint. Even if windows are well under the eves of the roof a driving monsoon rain can soon force water through the smallest crack.



For some reason Thais never seen to have sills on their window frames ?

----------


## OhOh

> Thais never seen to have sills on their window frames ?


It's because they don't have Robins to perch on them at Christmas.

----------


## wimpy

Finally have something to show.

The windows are in. Very pleased.




After days and days of routing lap joints, the siding is going on!


It is going to look like a house in the next couple days.

----------


## kiwinev

Looking good, window frames are nice.

----------


## OhOh

No Robins for you then!

You don't seem to have a lip at the bottom of the window, is that right?

----------


## wimpy

After two days of not showing up, and not phoning to let me know they wouldn't be here (causing me to waste 800 baht in diesel driving to a job site with no workers), I canned the lot of them, except for the window guy.  He is the only one that operates with any sort of professional responsibility.  He has assembled a new crew for me.  So far, they are working much harder than the last team.  Hope it lasts.

This is the finish that is going on all exposed concrete.


Siding is progressing.  I'm going to have them give it all one more sanding with the orbital sander before finishing.


I put one coat of urethane on the bamboo ceiling. Not fun.  I will be hiring someone to do the second coat.

----------


## nigelandjan

Is that insulated and then a second layer of T+G on the inside Wimpy ?

----------


## wimpy

> Is that insulated and then a second layer of T+G on the inside Wimpy ?


I am going to use sheet rock on the inside walls.  I have't decided whether to insulate or just use foil backed rock.

----------


## Davis Knowlton

A really excellent job!

----------


## WhiteLotusLane

> Originally Posted by nigelandjan
> 
> 
> Is that insulated and then a second layer of T+G on the inside Wimpy ?
> 
> 
> I am going to use sheet rock on the inside walls.


Eeww.  :Sad:   Though to be honest I have no idea what other light material would be good to use for the inside walls of a wooden house.. I also dislike those woven bamboo mats.  I guess you're limited by weight as to what you can clad the wall with..

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by nigelandjan
> ...


I could do it in wood, but I am of the opinion there is more than enough wood.  I think smooth white walls trimmed in wood, with the wood floors, windows, and beams will look nice, I find all wood interiors too gloomy. I bet you will be pleasantly surprised when you see the end result.

----------


## crocman

> Originally Posted by WhiteLotusLane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by wimpy
> ...


Best to use w/r (water resistant)plasterboard from CSR if you can source it.This will help prevent any mould appearing during monsoon.And as you say a nice light colour in low sheen over it will look a treat,especially when trimmed with lacquered skirts and architraves.Good luck.

----------


## WhiteLotusLane

> I could do it in wood, but I am of the opinion there is more than enough wood.  I think smooth white walls trimmed in wood, with the wood floors, windows, and beams will look nice, I find all wood interiors too gloomy.


Yes, I agree with that too.. I've seen wooden houses with wood everywhere including the cladding on the ceilings and everything else.  Makes me cross-eyed.. 




> I bet you will be pleasantly surprised when you see the end result.


Deal.  :Wink:    When do you expect the house warming to be?  It's in Lampang right, so that's still doable from Chiang Mai..  :Wink:

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> I am going to use sheet rock on the inside walls.


Good move - I would too. Too much wood looks crap.

----------


## wimpy

[quote=crocman;2107744][quote=wimpy;2107694]


> Best to use w/r (water resistant)plasterboard from CSR if you can source it.This will help prevent any mould appearing during monsoon.And as you say a nice light colour in low sheen over it will look a treat,especially when trimmed with lacquered skirts and architraves.Good luck.


Do you mean the green board typically used in bathrooms?  Do you know if it is available with a foil backing?

----------


## wimpy

The day's progress. Two guys putting up siding. One guy working cement. Me on the router preparing more siding.



This shows how the raised bathroom foundation comes off the back end of the house.  Will start building the bathroom soon.  Just waiting for some wood to frame it to be delivered.

----------


## OhOh

> Me on the router preparing more siding


Do you have a stand/guide table to ensure all are the same, or is the router hand held?

Rather than go back through all the thread can you tell me the name of the wood you are using for the siding?




> I bet you will be pleasantly surprised when you see the end result.


Every time you post new pictures it's a pleasure to see your ideas being brought to fruition.

----------


## wimpy

> Do you have a stand/guide table to ensure all are the same, or is the router hand held?
> 
> Rather than go back through all the thread can you tell me the name of the wood you are using for the siding?
> 
> Every time you post new pictures it's a pleasure to see your ideas being brought to fruition.


I am using a hand held router with a guide attached to do lap joints incorporating a 10mm groove. The only issue I am having is variation in thickness of the siding.  Spend a lot of time sorting through the pieces to find ones that match up nicely.  It will never be perfect without replanning all the boards on a professional planner - which is not going to happen. The house has a rustic feel, so I think a bit of variation will be acceptable.

The wood is mai taeng (teng), also referred to as Philippine mahogany.

----------


## OhOh

^Thanks

----------


## nigelandjan

> The wood is mai taeng (teng), also referred to as Philippine mahogany.


  I don't know but I would imagine it eats the router bits ?

 When I last made a handmade oak kitchen I foolishly had the idea of routing a pattern into the doors , course one I had done one I had to do the lot ,, not realising just how many cutters I would go through !  cost a bloody fortune in bits , mind it looked the nuts  :Smile: 

  Good luck with it all mate , I would love to be out there doing some wood work , very jealous !

----------


## DrAndy

> When I last made a handmade oak kitchen I foolishly had the idea of routing a pattern into the doors , course one I had done one I had to do the lot ,, not realising just how many cutters I would go through


if they had been new oak, no problem, that is soft

old oak is the biscuit

----------


## wimpy

It is already down to bare wood.  All the siding has been disc sanded to bare wood prior to installation.  Some of it has since been rained on, and will need a light sanding before finishing.  The wood is Mai Taeng (Teng) - commonly known as Philippine Mahogany. Not Mai Daeng (iron wood).  The three wood posts _are_ Mai Daeng.  I used a lot of Mai Daeng in my place in Chiang Mai.  The sawdust from that stuff was incredibly sticky. Mai Taeng is not nearly as bad in that respect.  Splinters from it, on the other hand, are nasty.  They always get infected if you don't get them out straight away.

----------


## nigelandjan

> old oak is the biscuit


 No this was very old stale biscuit

----------


## wimpy

From today.  The balcony starts to take shape.


The siding should be finished on Monday.

----------


## Makmak456

Just finished this in one go this am. Not having a old house to reuse , using concrete rebar post and beam (std construction in Issan) but you have shown some fantastic ideas for the finish work that I will do myself. 
Very limited budget for my house plan. 6M X9M 2 story , posted on CTH as "Ban Na Kohm" in "your building story"
Thanks
Mark

----------


## wimpy

Ha ha, I've always got lots of ideas - not necessarily good ones though.

This is where we are as of today... All the siding is up. Started framing the bedroom walls. The painter is coming on Tuesday - weather permitting.  He is going to put two more coats of urethane on the bamboo cieling - which is already mildewing.  I am not sure how long I am going to be able put up with that.   If I can't stand it, I may rip it out and put up pine battens. You can buy used pine from packing crates and pallets pretty cheaply and rip it as needed.  On the outside, I have decided to do two coats of shellac and then three coats of a clear semi-gloss wood stain.  First, all the various holes and cracks will be filled and everything sanded again.  The painter is a furniture guy, so hopefully it will look nice.

----------


## OhOh

Looking good. Pity about the roofing. Did you seal the other side of the bamboo prior to installing the sheets?

Professional painters, with scaffolding, that's a first.

I would of suggested trying to get some airflow between the top of the bamboo and the underside of the steel roof sheets but maybe the humidity would make it worse.

----------


## kiwinev

Looking really nice, great to see the progress.

----------


## wimpy

We did not seal the back side of the bamboo sheets.

Here is an example of the problem.  It appears worse on the exposed side, and not so bad of the back side.  It is much worse on areas of the eaves where there is no insulation.


This is the back side.


In some areas, you can wipe it off.  In other areas, it appears to be undeath the coat of urethane. I don't know what to do.  If it keeps getting worse (and I suspect it will) It will start to look really dirty. I could paint it, but fear that will look cheesy.  I can rip it all out and start over with wood, or I could sheet rock it. Another option would be to use decorative plywood -  (like ash or birch). Open to any suggestions.

----------


## DrAndy

just let it go

maybe it will look fine and weathered

I don't know why your sheets have got any fungal/algal growth; mine did where we had a leak, otherwise nothing

----------


## wimpy

No leaks, but this area is always quite damp.  Very different climate than the rest of Lampang.

----------


## Thetyim

> Open to any suggestions.


Looks like you got the thin bamboo sheeting.
They is another type that is compressed, thicker, stronger and covered in some sort of bonding/resin.
It's more expensive of course but might not suffer from fungi it you seal the edges after cutting it

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> Open to any suggestions.
> 
> 
> Looks like you got the thin bamboo sheeting.
> They is another type that is compressed, thicker, stronger and covered in some sort of bonding/resin.
> It's more expensive of course but might not suffer from fungi it you seal the edges after cutting it


They had 2, 3, and 5 mil available.  We choose the 3 mil on their recommendation for ceiling use. I was going to use the 5 mil, but the lady at the factory talked me into the 3.  Said the 5 mil would be too heavy. Rats.

----------


## OhOh

Have you taken a sample back to the supplier for their explanation? Or point them to this thread :Smile: 

Did the sheets get wet before installation? I know this is a stupid question but, did they come with any storage, handling or sealing written advice?

----------


## wimpy

^
A friend just up the road has used quite a bit of the bamboo, and hasn't had any mildew problems.  The only thing he did different was immediately install and seal it. Ours sat in the carport for a while, was then installed, and another month or so went by before it got sealed. The painter is going to paint over some of the uglier bits of mildew with some bamboo colored paint.  Hopefully it will blend in.

----------


## wimpy

Posts for the entry stairs.


Painter hard at work.


The finish for the balcony is about finished.

----------


## wimpy

First coat of shellac.

----------


## runker

are you able to get any air flow between the roof tiles and the bamboo ceiling?  I think you may be building up some hot moist air between the two and that could be causing the problem with the mold on the bamboo.

----------


## wimpy

> are you able to get any air flow between the roof tiles and the bamboo ceiling?  I think you may be building up some hot moist air between the two and that could be causing the problem with the mold on the bamboo.


There are vents all along the edges of the roof tiles.  I don't think that is the problem because the mildew is the worst in areas where there is no fiberglass insulation.  I would expect the airflow the be the best is those areas.  I believe the problem stems from letting the the bamboo ply sit uncoated in a damp carport for a month or two.  Then after installation it sat for another month or so without being having any finish applied.  When I noticed the mildew, I immediately had them coat it with shellac and then I put a coat of urethane on.  If I had it to do over,I would coat both sides with shellac and urethane immediately after purchase and prior to installation.

----------


## wimpy

Two coats of shellac on the front of the house, plus we got the front door installed.  Pleased with how the dark red siding contrasts with the golden teak. The shellacked siding will get another light sanding and then two coats of clear stain.

----------


## runker

Also the foil on the insulation is acting as a vapor barrier trapping moisture,  is it too late to install a ridge vent along the ridge of your roof?

----------


## OhOh

> If I had it to do over,I would coat both sides with shellac and urethane immediately after purchase and prior to installation.


That would have been a better way to go, maybe on your next build :Smile:

----------


## DrAndy

> Also the foil on the insulation is acting as a vapor barrier trapping moisture, is it too late to install a ridge vent along the ridge of your roof?


 
it is difficult to tell whether that is true or not, and whether it is a problem, seems doubtful

the mould is seen on the outside of the boards, which are open and exposed

----------


## wimpy

The mildew is by far the worst under the eaves, where there is no insulation and it has been exposed to the weather.

----------


## DrAndy

oh well, you will have to live with it

after a while, it will blend in!

----------


## wimpy

The balcony gets a leveling layer of cement prior to tiling.  The balcony roof and railing posts are up.

----------


## wimpy

That makes for two coats of shellac and two coats of clear matte wood stain.

----------


## wimpy

Bobo can always be found underneath any planing or cutting operations. I think it keeps the bugs away.

----------


## DrAndy

no, he just likes to feel part of the gang

----------


## nigelandjan

chip off the old dog ,, bless him

----------


## sunsetter

nice house, hows it coming along?

----------


## wimpy

^ It's getting there.

Framing for the downstairs workshop / storage room.




The exterior finish is completed on two sides.

----------


## Necron99

Looking good Wimpy, its probably been mentioned, but what's your cost to date?

----------


## wimpy

Just about 300,000 as of today.  That was my target figure, so it is definitely going to be over budget. Still have to do the electrical and plumbing. 300,000 was a figure I plucked out of the air, so it doesn't really mean much.  As I go along, I always end up changing things - usually for a nicer ( and more expensive) option.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

----------


## nigelandjan

Coming on Wimpy well done ,, is someone gonna live in that when your not there ?

----------


## wimpy

> Coming on Wimpy well done ,, is someone gonna live in that when your not there ?


No, but I suspect it will be used a lot by me. I'm pretty much over Chiang Mai these days.  We are good friends with our next door neighbors, and they will keep an eye on it when we're not around.

----------


## nigelandjan

Nice one mate ,, good to be in with your neighbours ,, although it would be a tad small for me to live in full time

----------


## wimpy

> Nice one mate ,, good to be in with your neighbours ,, although it would be a tad small for me to live in full time


I grew up living on sailboats, so I don't need a lot of space. I have a four floor townhouse in Chiang Mai, and spend 99.9% of my time in only one room or on the roof garden. The rest of it goes pretty much unused.  In Lampang I see myself being outside most of the time.  Either on the balcony or using the open air kitchen / patio downstairs.  Lots of BBQing will be going on there.  There will also be the well equipped workshop downstairs, which should be a pleasant place to putter about.  :Smile:

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by nigelandjan
> 
> 
> Nice one mate ,, good to be in with your neighbours ,, although it would be a tad small for me to live in full time
> 
> 
> I grew up living on sailboats, so I don't need a lot of space. I have a four floor townhouse in Chiang Mai, and spend 99.9% of my time in only one room or on the roof garden. The rest of it goes pretty much unused. In Lampang I see myself being outside most of the time. Either on the balcony or using the open air kitchen / patio downstairs. Lots of BBQing will be going on there. There will also be the well equipped workshop downstairs, which should be a pleasant place to putter about.


Wimpy,

Big houses suck. Your house is fine and it will be easy to maintain. One of the most aspirational parts of your Ban is the reed roof cover. Going forward, we have learned to protect the applique with the proper sealant before we do it. That is what this Forum is about...

Thanks Bro!

----------


## snairb

from the photos it looks like u have wood embedded in the concrete how did u treat the wood? interested because i would(no pun intended)like to build my own in kp

----------


## Carrabow

> from the photos it looks like u have wood embedded in the concrete how did u treat the wood? interested because i would(no pun intended)like to build my own in kp


Sorry Wimpy,


There are several ways to anchor wood to concrete:

SubmergedPlate with anchorStubWhat are you looking to do?

----------


## wimpy

> from the photos it looks like u have wood embedded in the concrete how did u treat the wood? interested because i would(no pun intended)like to build my own in kp


Not sure which wood you are talking about. The balcony railing posts or the three mai dang posts that hold up the front of the house?  None of it goes deep into the concrete.  The balcony posts have steel rabbit ears bolted to the concrete slab with expanding bolts. There is a thin layer of cement that covers the brackets and bolts.  The house support posts have rabbit ears that are welded to the foundation re-bar. They are sitting on concrete pads.  The posts don't go into the concrete.

----------


## nigelandjan

> In Lampang I see myself being outside most of the time. Either on the balcony or using the open air kitchen / patio downstairs. Lots of BBQing will be going on there. There will also be the well equipped workshop downstairs, which should be a pleasant place to putter about.


  Sound like a man after my own Wimpy ,, I could never be cooped up in a condo , I have to be able to go in and out the back door into my garden potter around also in me shed I sometimes piss about doing this that and the other and look back at the end of the day and wonder what the hell I have done.  But I am happy ,, grow a bit ,, potter a bit ,, BBQ a bit can't whack it mate

----------


## OhOh

Don't ever give up your garden or the shed.

----------


## nigelandjan

^ Good advice OO ,, a sanctuary to resume ones sanity for sure

----------


## Carrabow

A small house is easier to take care of.



Wimpy,

Remember K.I.S.S    

keepitSimpleSoldierM'Kay

 :Smile:

----------


## wimpy

Turns out I had just enough left over siding to do the downstairs wall.  Originally had planned on using painted Shera siding.  This will tie in better. The open space is where the kitchen counter will go.


The team gets treated to a little lao khao for a good day's work.  Everyone is happy.

----------


## Carrabow

lookin' good Wimpy!!!


What you need to do now, is figure maintenance plan. Wood is Good, but you will have to perform maintenance.

----------


## Necron99

Just a thought, but might shera not have been a better choice for the will the kitchen goes against. Oil, fire.....teak

But its looking cracking, hope I end with with something half as good.

----------


## wimpy

> Just a thought, but might shera not have been a better choice for the will the kitchen goes against. Oil, fire.....teak
> 
> But its looking cracking, hope I end with with something half as good.


Behind the counter it will be concrete block.  This should take care of the oven.  I plan to put a sheet of stainless behind the cooktop, which should protect the wood from flames.  There will also be a fire extinguisher handy at all times.

----------


## Carrabow

> Just a thought, but might shera not have been a better choice for the will the kitchen goes against. Oil, fire.....teak
> 
> But its looking cracking, hope I end with with something half as good.


In a typical Thai house, the food will be cooked on ground level away from the Ban. In the living room would be suicide    :Smile:

----------


## wimpy

This is the metal siding to clad 3 exterior sides of the workshop and the attached bath. Went with the thickest available. The metal siding is very controversial with all who have an opinion.  Most Thais think it will look like a barn or factory.  I think it is going to look great - especially with the contrast of the old teak windows from the house I bought. Stay tuned.


Somebody framed the window 10cm off center, so back out it comes.

----------


## wimpy

Got the pretty bi-fold balcony doors hung. Getting their first coat of finish.

----------


## Carrabow

Wimpy,

when are you moving in?

----------


## wimpy

Well that is a good question...  Sometime after we do the wiring, finish the floors, hang the sheet-rock, tile the balcony and patio, and build the bathroom! Oh and the entry stairs have yet to be completed.  Still waiting on wood.

----------


## Carrabow

Yes you are right,

We moved in our house after my room was finished and had water. Painting and all the lot was not a big issue. 

Hell, I went a year with no Air-con  :Confused:

----------


## wimpy

> Yes you are right,
> 
> We moved in our house after my room was finished and had water. Painting and all the lot was not a big issue. 
> 
> Hell, I went a year with no Air-con


Being that this house is essentially one big room (with some partitions), it is important to finish the interior before trying to live in it. There is no separate room to go to to escape the dust and whatnot from the building activities.

----------


## Carrabow

Wimpy,

You have a really nice house. When I built mine I wish would have been more conservative. We spend about 70% of our time in the Thai Kitchen which is big open space. All we use the house for is sleeping and when I have to do #2.

You should be proud of what you have done, keeping somewhat on budget (the cost of materials is soaring) and the look is comfortable. 

 :tumbs:

----------


## OhOh

^ Do you have any tips to ensure the Thai kitchen is well planned?  A lot of people assume it is a large open area but there must surely be a "best" layout.

Any thoughts anyone?

----------


## Carrabow

> ^ Do you have any tips to ensure the Thai kitchen is well planned? A lot of people assume it is a large open area but there must surely be a "best" layout.
> 
> Any thoughts anyone?


Actually, where we cook food needs to be bigger.

This is Wimpy's thread so I will not ellaborate

----------


## Yasojack

wimpy you have the same idea as me, great to see the bamboo, we are making are home from a two level to one and bamboo is going to be up in the inside of roof and around the walls,instead of plaster on the walls remaining, i have hummed and erred about it but now seeing yours has made up my mind.

Looks great on yours and will look great on ours as we will still have all the supports from the upstairs, were extending instead of a new build.

Just out of interest how much did you pay for the bamboo.?

----------


## runker

I love the bifold doors.  Will you be installing a track to keep the center panels from swinging all the way out like the one the person working on?  Nice metal panels for the exterior walls. Nice to see someone using steel studs for the walls.

I know you already changed your window but would it not have been easy to install a header or even a window seal at the base of the window?  Now that I think about it none of the windows in our new US house have window seals either.

----------


## wimpy

> wimpy you have the same idea as me, great to see the bamboo, we are making are home from a two level to one and bamboo is going to be up in the inside of roof and around the walls,instead of plaster on the walls remaining, i have hummed and erred about it but now seeing yours has made up my mind.
> 
> Looks great on yours and will look great on ours as we will still have all the supports from the upstairs, were extending instead of a new build.
> 
> Just out of interest how much did you pay for the bamboo.?


It was 300 baht a sheet for the 4 mil variety.  Are you going to share your build here?

----------


## wimpy

> I love the bifold doors.  Will you be installing a track to keep the center panels from swinging all the way out like the one the person working on?  Nice metal panels for the exterior walls. Nice to see someone using steel studs for the walls.
> 
> I know you already changed your window but would it not have been easy to install a header or even a window seal at the base of the window?  Now that I think about it none of the windows in our new US house have window seals either.


I would rather not have a track.  Probably some sort of magnets or hooks to hold them in position once they are open.

I don't see any point in window seals.  There is no air conditioning in this house.

----------


## nigelandjan

> You should be proud of what you have done, keeping somewhat on budget (the cost of materials is soaring) and the look is comfortable.


 Seconded looking good Wimpy

----------


## sunsetter

> I love the bifold doors


me too, cost? or did i miss that?

----------


## OhOh

The bi-fold doors seem to have steel hinges. My only experience with these types of doors showed that the steel hinges rust badly, seize up and need to be replaced. On-board yachts they use brass hinges which seem not too.

Have you used them before?




> I don't see any point in window seals


Rain ingress seems to be a concern in different threads more so than air ingress. Anyone tell me why Thai windows don't have top rain guards, no bottom sill with drip groove and are not sealed with silicone etc?

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> Anyone tell me why Thai windows don't have top rain guards, no bottom sill with drip groove and are not sealed with silicone etc?


Because they build shit houses.

----------


## Yasojack

Maybe not sure yet, the last couple of times i have had builders here, i was not best pleased, i like your idea of paying them daily how much you get a day rate for, easier to boot them off site, if i am honest i am not really looking forward to sept, when its supposed to happen, i may find i might put it off, though wifey is insisting it happens soon, we bought some land off a cousin that does not have chanote until next year i would prefer to build there, it would be good if i did share to have a web cam on the job, just for a laugh




> Originally Posted by Yasojack
> 
> 
> wimpy you have the same idea as me, great to see the bamboo, we are making are home from a two level to one and bamboo is going to be up in the inside of roof and around the walls,instead of plaster on the walls remaining, i have hummed and erred about it but now seeing yours has made up my mind.
> 
> Looks great on yours and will look great on ours as we will still have all the supports from the upstairs, were extending instead of a new build.
> 
> Just out of interest how much did you pay for the bamboo.?
> 
> ...

----------


## Dagnump

> Will be coating the bamboo with matte urethane.


I note after you wrote that you had a problem with mildew. I'm no expert on this particluar type of bamboo matting, but I can tell you that we used some on some workers accomodation not so long ago (for walls as well as ceilings). What they did here was to cut it to size and before installing it they coated it with varnish (first coat with thinner, second coat no thinner). That gave it better rigidity (i.e. to stop any sagging) as well as giving it some protection.

----------


## wimpy

> The bi-fold doors seem to have steel hinges. My only experience with these types of doors showed that the steel hinges rust badly, seize up and need to be replaced. On-board yachts they use brass hinges which seem not too.
> 
> Have you used them before?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Actually I used stainless steel hinges with ball bearings. The action is silky smooth. Global House has them for around 80 baht a pair.  Not sure how they are making a profit at that price.  I'm using stainless for all the window and door hardware.

----------


## wimpy

Metal siding starts to go up.




Balcony tile.

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by runker
> 
> I love the bifold doors
> 
> 
> me too, cost? or did i miss that?


If I remember correctly, they were 2000 baht per door including the teak.

----------


## Dagnump

Can't say I'm a fan of the metal sheet. Looks somewhat out of place I feel.

----------


## nigelandjan

^ Yup and I would say as hot as hell , but what do I know

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> Yup and I would say as hot as hell , but what do I know


Not if it's insulated. But, very much so if not.

----------


## Carrabow

Wimpy will put insulation between the frame and the wall. 


just a good guess   :Smile:

----------


## WhiteLotusLane

That reminds me.. for a quick and easy build I oculd just chuck down two shipping containers (add some windows, etc.) and build the wooden structure on top of that.. I've seen that on some architecture blogs, for some reason it works well.

----------


## OhOh

^Don't use the ex Norwegian ones. You never get rid of the smell of fish.

----------


## wimpy

> Can't say I'm a fan of the metal sheet. Looks somewhat out of place I feel.


I think it looks cool. Given that this is the farmhouse to our mini farm, it adds a kind of an agricultural feel. Once the bathroom is done in the same material, I think it will tie it all together.

----------


## Thetyim

> That reminds me.. for a quick and easy build I oculd just chuck down two shipping containers (add some windows, etc.) and build the wooden structure on top of that.


Hotel in Arrayaprathet called  Le Blocs

Le blocs @ Aranyaprathet | A hip space to unblock your imagination

----------


## Dagnump

> Originally Posted by Dagnump
> 
> 
> Can't say I'm a fan of the metal sheet. Looks somewhat out of place I feel.
> 
> 
> I think it looks cool. Given that this is the farmhouse to our mini farm, it adds a kind of an agricultural feel. Once the bathroom is done in the same material, I think it will tie it all together.


I really like what you had done up to the point of installing the metal sheeting. And forgive me for saying this, but it now looks like you've put a shipping container on a concrete pad and used it to build a house on top.

----------


## wimpy

> I really like what you had done up to the point of installing the metal sheeting. And forgive me for saying this, but it now looks like you've put a shipping container on a concrete pad and used it to build a house on top.


That's ok.  I am building it to please me, and no one else.  I also like the hotel built out of shipping containers.  :Wink:

----------


## WhiteLotusLane

The more I look at it, the more I like it though.  The biggest issue I always have with wooden houses on stilts is what to do with the ground floor. In wooden houses where the ground floor is all bricked or cemented up it looks horrible, unless some extra veranda roofing or other features are added. (Such as the balcony, in the above)   Overall I really like doing something different, and will follow this topic with extra interest!

One issue that may remain is that the ground floor often ends up too dark inside. Perhaps a whole wall of windowed door panels that can completely slide open would work to get light in.    From the picture above I think the windows could be a lot more prominent and become a feature (no need to do that now, as the walls are metal sheets it would be trivial to do at any time: putting in some (almost) ground-to-ceiling paneled windows, similar to the balcony doors, though they could be in metal or PVC.)  Anyway the picure is from the back side right; you wouldn't want to turn the whole place like a fish bowl so I'll withold judgement (  :Smile:  ) on the windows until I see the other side.  :Wink: 

Again speaking in general about wooden houses, another thing is that the ground floor should be sufficiently high. In most Thai structures it's too low for me to even be able to walk around; some Farang built structures are just a tad higher so I would at least be able to walk around fully erect, but maybe it would look better if it was even taller.  But not sure how that then will work out with the wooden structure on top, which may then also need to be taller to keep things in proportion.

----------


## wimpy

^^
I have never been one to do things like everyone else.  I like to try new ideas.

This room is going to be a workshop, a storeroom, and a place for the refrigerator. This is why there are no big windows.  I want to be able to lock it tight when I am not there.  If it was going to be a living space, then I would have definitely added some picture windows.

We built the house much higher than a typical Thai house.  There is over 8 feet of headroom downstairs.

----------


## nigelandjan

I have to concur with the poster's remarks about the tin sheets Wimpy ,, it looked so good up until that point .

  HOWEVER good on you mate your doing it for what you want ,, and you have your reasons about security , but I wouldn't have advertised it on here .

   Good luck with it mate ,, its your home ,, and only our opinions

----------


## Carrabow

Wimpy,


The house is looking good  

 :tumbs:

----------


## Thetyim

> I want to be able to lock it tight when I am not there.


Sold in every town in Thailand, 500 baht

----------


## wimpy

The stuff is a bitch to cut.  Went with the heaviest available.  The chang ended up using angle grinder to do the cutting.  Then the bastards will have to destroy the sheet-rock to get into the room.  I'm sure that will wake up the neighbor and their 8 dogs.

----------


## Carrabow

> The stuff is a bitch to cut. Went with the heaviest available. The chang ended up using angle grinder to do the cutting. Then the bastards will have to destroy the sheet-rock to get into the room. I'm sure that will wake up the neighbor and their 8 dogs.


 
Use a nibbler, they are electric and air operated. 

If that wont cut it, leatherface with his chainsaw  :Smile:

----------


## wimpy

Kitchen counter starting to take shape.

----------


## wimpy

My faux terracotta balcony tiles are finished.  Not bad at all for 170 baht a meter.

----------


## OhOh

Nice tiling and doors.

----------


## nigelandjan

> I'm sure that will wake up the neighbor and their 8 dogs.


  Lets hope the neighbours haven't got an angle grinder  :Smile:

----------


## WhiteLotusLane

> The stuff is a bitch to cut.  Went with the heaviest available.  The chang ended up using angle grinder to do the cutting.  Then the bastards will have to destroy the sheet-rock to get into the room.  I'm sure that will wake up the neighbor and their 8 dogs.


Yup. And besides, it's the same kind of material that some roofing is made of I suppose.  At that point it becomes almost easier to get in through the roof.  I think it's plenty strong to deter entry.

----------


## wimpy

The guys are here to sand the floors.

----------


## wimpy

That is looking better.


Tile for the kitchen area.

----------


## OhOh

Re the floor sanding. Is it just to get a good finish or are the floor boards different heights. If it's the heights, what variation can you sand away to get the levels equal?

----------


## wimpy

> Re the floor sanding. Is it just to get a good finish or are the floor boards different heights. If it's the heights, what variation can you sand away to get the levels equal?


Different heights.  I don't think there were two boards with the same thickness! I don't know what the limit is, but it was very uneven. Now it is fairly even.  It looks a lot better than I expected.

This is the first coat of shellac. Now all the holes and cracks get filled and then another sanding.  Then 5 more coats of shellac. Finally paste wax.

----------


## OhOh

They certainly did a good job.

----------


## benlovesnuk

Hi wimpy
Are those terracotta clay tiles or something that looks similar, if they are do you have a price per m2 in chiangmai the cheapest i can find is 299 badt per m2, many thanks!

----------


## wimpy

> Hi wimpy
> Are those terracotta clay tiles or something that looks similar, if they are do you have a price per m2 in chiangmai the cheapest i can find is 299 badt per m2, many thanks!


They are a fake terracotta.  About 170 baht a meter. They sort of look like a old terracotta tile with a patina.  I had the real thing at my old house.  Too much maintenance when used outside. I am pleased with how these look and the price.

----------


## benlovesnuk

Thanks Wimpy, are they actually a porcelain tile? They look very nice, do you remember where you got them? All the best house is looking great!

----------


## wimpy

> Thanks Wimpy, are they actually a porcelain tile? They look very nice, do you remember where you got them? All the best house is looking great!


Just a normal glazed tile. I bought them at Home Sukapan Lamphun.  On the Superhighway just before Lamphun.

----------


## wimpy

Having fun with cement on the kitchen cabinets.

----------


## benlovesnuk

> Originally Posted by benlovesnuk
> 
> 
> Thanks Wimpy, are they actually a porcelain tile? They look very nice, do you remember where you got them? All the best house is looking great!
> 
> 
> Just a normal glazed tile. I bought them at Home Sukapan Lamphun.  On the Superhighway just before Lamphun.


Home Sukapan is a great place, free drinks and biscuits and a play area for the little one. Got the bathroom tiles there discounted, and nothing wrong with them.

Many thanks, youve made it look too easy!

----------


## toddmeister

Great thread, nice one Wimpy.  Read it through from start to finish this morning.  Looking forward to more updates  :Smile:

----------


## kiwinev

Good progress since I last checked on this thread. Metal walls are different, should be good once it is all finished. Nice bi-folds.

----------


## wimpy

The balcony now has a roof.


Finally, some progress on the bathroom. Once it is up, the electricians can come and start wiring.

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> The balcony now has a roof.


Thais really can't bring themselves to make a roof addition the correct pitch, can they?

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> The balcony now has a roof.
> 
> 
> Thais really can't bring themselves to make a roof addition the correct pitch, can they?


They built it as I specified. I didn't want the balcony roof at the same pitch as the house roof.  If it was, the view would be obscured and there would be about 1" of headroom at the edge of the balcony.

----------


## OhOh

^For the Thais more like a foot eh?

----------


## WhiteLotusLane

> Originally Posted by Marmite the Dog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by wimpy
> ...


That makes sense, and I would likely have done the same.   I do think that having it in the same pitch as the roof (if/when possible) looks very nice.  On the other hand, the more common way (as Marmers hinted at) of a lesser pitch may allow for an air gap near the top, preventing heat build up?  That of course implies that the main roof extends a little bit over the balcony roof, and that the balcony roof doesn't go all the way to the wall and ends a bit below the main roof overhang.   Then you end up with a good way for hot air to move up and out.  ( Though applying insulation may get tricky.  (even for an outside balcony roof some kind of coating or insulation could be good, primarily to block radiant heat. Anyway just thinking out loud, I look forward to being corrected)

So..there might actually be a reason why this style is so common..  Some people are a little quick to jump to a conclusion of 'cluelessness' for anything different they see.  

Then again I suppose you could achieve the same gap with the same pitch as the main roof, but then the main roof needs to be higher, still.

----------


## WhiteLotusLane

> The balcony now has a roof.
> 
> 
> Finally, some progress on the bathroom. Once it is up, the electricians can come and start wiring.


Wat kind of walls will the bathroom get?  I always dread it to be this cemented up 'wart' stuck to the side of a nice wooden house, with blue tubes sticking out..

----------


## wimpy

> Wat kind of walls will the bathroom get?  I always dread it to be this cemented up 'wart' stuck to the side of a nice wooden house, with blue tubes sticking out..


More metal siding!!

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> So..there might actually be a reason why this style is so common.. Some people are a little quick to jump to a conclusion of 'cluelessness' for anything different they see.


It just looks shit, is all.

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by WhiteLotusLane
> 
> So..there might actually be a reason why this style is so common.. Some people are a little quick to jump to a conclusion of 'cluelessness' for anything different they see.
> 
> 
> It just looks shit, is all.


 I don't think it looks bad at all.  It is quite typical for the porch or balcony roof to have a less steep slope than the house roof.  And certainly not just in Thailand.  Many charming Australian cottages are built the same way.

----------


## Mozzbie47

^^^^^  Yep

----------


## wimpy

Bathroom progresses. My teak trees are looking happy too.

----------


## nigelandjan

My missus loves it Wimpy ,, she quite likes your new home to  :mid:

----------


## WhiteLotusLane

> Originally Posted by WhiteLotusLane
> 
> 
> Wat kind of walls will the bathroom get?  I always dread it to be this cemented up 'wart' stuck to the side of a nice wooden house, with blue tubes sticking out..
> 
> 
> More metal siding!!


 ::spin:: 

 :Smile:   I have a question on this if I ever get around to building a wooden cottage; would it be possible to use wood?  Of course on the inside you want to waterproof it in some way; tiling is likely too heavy, unless you make it brick and cement and then just put wood on the outside to make it blend in with the rest of the house.  Or make the walls wood and put 'something' reasonably water resistant on the inside; the metal siding perhaps.  That would also work for a bathroom that is inside the main square structure of a house I think.

----------


## wimpy

> I have a question on this if I ever get around to building a wooden cottage; would it be possible to use wood?  Of course on the inside you want to waterproof it in some way; tiling is likely too heavy, unless you make it brick and cement and then just put wood on the outside to make it blend in with the rest of the house.  Or make the walls wood and put 'something' reasonably water resistant on the inside; the metal siding perhaps.  That would also work for a bathroom that is inside the main square structure of a house I think.


Sure.  You would need to make sure it is built stiff though.  You don't want any flex in the floor if you are tiling it.  I would lay a subfloor of viva board or similar and tile on top of that.

If you build a concrete elevated foundation (like we did) you can do the walls with whatever you like.

When I was in Western Australia I saw many of the bathrooms at national parks used metal siding for the walls inside.  I thought they looked interesting. I have decided to use urethaned viva board on the inside for the wet areas and teak siding for the dry parts. The floor will be tiled with blue tiles from a Lampang manufacturer.

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> I would lay a subfloor of viva board or similar and tile on top of that.


Double up the joists and use marine ply for the floor. You can use 'cement board' for the walls. My place will only have timber joists & beams and will be going this route.

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> I would lay a subfloor of viva board or similar and tile on top of that.
> 
> 
> Double up the joists and use marine ply for the floor. You can use 'cement board' for the walls. My place will only have timber joists & beams and will be going this route.



I don't think marine ply is available in Chiang Mai.  I have never seen it - and I get around to a lot of different building supply shops. I suspect it is available in Phuket.

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> Originally Posted by Marmite the Dog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by wimpy
> ...


I know I'm in for a world of pain when I try to source that, but it's the best stuff for the job. Should be available in Phuket, Pattaya or Bangkok, it's just finding the right shitty little shophouse that stocks it which is the problem.

----------


## wimpy

Won't be long until I have entry stairs with a sitting area.  All teak except for the treads, which are padauk (praduu or rosewood).

----------


## nigelandjan

Nearly there Wimpy ,, soon have the final link in the chain

----------


## Carrabow

Looking GREAT Whimpy!!!

Hang in there and I know it is not easy... Keep you target Budget 


Try... If you don't ...... We forgive you  :Smile:

----------


## wimpy

Routing the stringers for the treads.

----------


## WhiteLotusLane

I find myself checking this topic twice a day now..  More please!!!!  :Wink:

----------


## wimpy

Got the bathroom tiled with nice blue tile from a local Lampang manufacturer. If I just had some walls!

----------


## wimpy

Happy with how the stairs are developing.

----------


## OhOh

> If I just had some walls!


A few tall plants in pots is all you need. :Smile:

----------


## Carrabow

Lookin' Good Whimpy....



Green sent.   Keep it coming  :Smile:

----------


## WhiteLotusLane

> Got the bathroom tiled with nice blue tile from a local Lampang manufacturer. If I just had some walls!


Nice tiles. Was amazed that they're very spendy, relatively speaking. How much are they in Lampang per sq meter?

Also:  No bathtub??

----------


## wimpy

> Nice tiles. Was amazed that they're very spendy, relatively speaking. How much are they in Lampang per sq meter?
> 
> Also:  No bathtub??


Yeah, they are not cheap - but pretty.  450 a meter for grade B. 680 for grade A.

Not interested in having a bathtub.  Had them in several homes, and never used them.  I much prefer a roomy shower with lots of water flow.

----------


## Mozzbie47

Looks like you have a good crew doing the build mate, very nice work., get their names and addresses for me will ya.

----------


## wimpy

Bamboo ply going up under the balcony roof.  This time we shelldrited, shellacked, and urethaned both sides as soon as it arrived at the site.  Mildew should not be a issue with this batch.

----------


## wimpy

The new stairs get BoBo's approval.

----------


## Yasojack

looking forward to the completed bamboo ply finish, looking good.

----------


## wimpy

Today we are building eaves to help keep the rain out of the entry / kitchen area and off the stairs.  We are using teak and polycarbonate plastic.

----------


## Marmite the Dog

Any reason you didn't use the same metal as your cladding for the roof? I'm guessing it's for light rather than longevity?

----------


## wimpy

> Any reason you didn't use the same metal as your cladding for the roof? I'm guessing it's for light rather than longevity?


That is correct.  I wanted to keep things bright, and light weight. The polycarbonate is also much quieter in a rain storm.  In CM my neighbors all have the metal sheeting for their eaves. It is seriously noisy when it pours.

----------


## wimpy

A couple shots showing where we are as of quitting time today.

----------


## Yasojack

looking good are you going to paint the sheeting on the walls.?

love the build but still not sure of the sheeting.

----------


## wimpy

> looking good are you going to paint the sheeting on the walls.?
> 
> love the build but still not sure of the sheeting.


Nope.  You can buy it in about 10 different colors, but I like the galvanized appearance.

----------


## benlovesnuk

Thats 100 % Thai! Well done.

----------


## nigelandjan

It all looks very good Wimpy , can I just ask you one thing , have you ever lived in a non aircon place like this before for a good period of time along with the high mozzie population in the neighbourhood ?

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## wimpy

> It all looks very good Wimpy , can I just ask you one thing , have you ever lived in a non aircon place like this before for a good period of time along with the high mozzie population in the neighbourhood ?


No I haven't. I don't think the climate will be a problem.  I rarely turn on the AC in Chiang Mai, and it always feels cooler at the Lampang property. Will have plenty of fans. Last night we stayed over.  Slept inside with all the windows shut and one fan on.  I was comfortable.  If it gets oppressively hot, we can always retreat to Chiang Mai and the AC.  

The bugs are another issue.  I'm sensitive to bites.  For sure, I will have to relent and put up screens.  I don't want to sleep under a mozzie net.

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## nigelandjan

Good luck with it all mate ,, I remembered from earlier in the thread you wasn't gonna have air con ,, just from a personal point of view I know I couldn't , it would be the next thing closest to hell for me , but then at the moment I am too overweight which certainly docent help.,

      The longest I managed in similar was 3 weeks in my MIL's shack , I wouldn't have stayed there one more night if we hadn't moved on , I would have got in the pickup and drove to a hotel in Udon on my own if need be.

   I remember it was so hot my FIL was up at least twice a night taking a shower .

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> I don't want to sleep under a mozzie net.


Get Somachai to knock you up a 4 poster with mozzie net curtains.

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> I don't want to sleep under a mozzie net.
> 
> 
> Get Somachai to knock you up a 4 poster with mozzie net curtains.


Not a bad idea at all.  :Smile:

----------


## Carrabow

I think Wimpy's place is KICK ASS!!!

I know lots of the members think the same 





FUCK YEAH!!!  Wimpy!

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## wimpy

> I think Wimpy's place is KICK ASS!!!
> 
> I know lots of the members think the same 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FUCK YEAH!!!  Wimpy!


 :Beerchug:

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## nigelandjan

Wimpy is the MAN!

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## OhOh

It was going so well until the metal sheeting appeared. :Confused:  I can only assume it was the cost of the alternative.

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## nigelandjan

^ he wanted it secure mate to leave his bits and pieces in ,, but I do agree with you , but its his place , so each to their own

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## wimpy

> ^ he wanted it secure mate to leave his bits and pieces in ,, but I do agree with you , but its his place , so each to their own


As you can see, metal siding has been part of the program from day one. The decision had more to do with aesthetics, termites, and wanting to use something different than Shera siding or cement block (like everyone else uses). Was well aware it wouldn't be please everyone. Not my intention.

----------


## OhOh

^So you did, my apologies. It has also turned out as planned.

----------


## Necron99

You see to have completely stuffed up the bit about it being suspended in the air....
Would you not be better off with wood shingles over that little plastic roof? Would look nicer.

----------


## wimpy

> suspended in the air....


I have no idea what you are talking about.

----------


## wimpy

The balcony railing is starting to materialize. Very happy.  It always looks so nice when the neighbor plants his sticky rice.



Last bit of tiling.

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## benlovesnuk

Great house wimpy. I wonder about your comment to do with alternative wall options? Was there not the consideration to just use more old wood, teak maybe, if worried about termites?  metal is different,  and youve made a house of your own, doing that means noone elses comments matter. Bet you cant wait to crack open the beers.

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## wimpy

> Great house wimpy. I wonder about your comment to do with alternative wall options? Was there not the consideration to just use more old wood, teak maybe, if worried about termites?  metal is different,  and youve made a house of your own, doing that means noone elses comments matter. Bet you cant wait to crack open the beers.


I have used up all the old wood I have. I estimate enough seasoned teak to side the downstairs and bathroom would easily cost double what I paid for the entire village house. Trying to stay somewhat on budget here.

Indeed, I am looking forward to the workers all going home and enjoying what has been created.

----------


## wimpy

Went shopping yesterday for electrical bits. 15,000 baht for wire, a few plugs, switches, breakers, and some metal conduit. Still have to buy fixtures, more wire, breaker box, assorted fittings, and new main wire to the meter.  Ouch!

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## terry57

You might find you will be installing a aircon in the future as the heat rising from the metal cladding with cook you like a potato even with it insulated.   The temps up there are brutal in summer, love the wood house thou. Brilliant

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## wimpy

> You might find you will be installing a aircon in the future as the heat rising from the metal cladding with cook you like a potato even with it insulated.   The temps up there are brutal in summer, love the wood house thou. Brilliant


The metal siding doesn't get much direct sun.  No one lives in that room either.

----------


## Necron99

> Originally Posted by Necron99
> 
> 
>  suspended in the air....
> 
> 
> I have no idea what you are talking about.


Lame joke reference to your concept drawing above..

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## wimpy

^
Ahhh! 555 Sorry, I can be a bit dense.

----------


## benlovesnuk

> Originally Posted by benlovesnuk
> 
> 
> Great house wimpy. I wonder about your comment to do with alternative wall options? Was there not the consideration to just use more old wood, teak maybe, if worried about termites?  metal is different,  and youve made a house of your own, doing that means noone elses comments matter. Bet you cant wait to crack open the beers.
> 
> 
> I have used up all the old wood I have. I estimate enough seasoned teak to side the downstairs and bathroom would easily cost double what I paid for the entire village house. Trying to stay somewhat on budget here.
> 
> Indeed, I am looking forward to the workers all going home and enjoying what has been created.


Interesting, i estimate the old teak to be about  25,000 -30,000 badt without frame. Im talking 15 planks high(as in 3m tall), and 3 meter gaps over 7 bays. With frame the cost would be more like 50,000. It still is pretty awesome for a country dwelling.

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## wimpy

> Interesting, i estimate the old teak to be about  25,000 -30,000 badt without frame. Im talking 15 planks high(as in 3m tall), and 3 meter gaps over 7 bays. With frame the cost would be more like 50,000. It still is pretty awesome for a country dwelling.


I haven't seen prices like that around here.  Is that in Chiang Mai?  Will they deliver inter-provincially? I could use some teak for the guest bungalow at some point in the future.

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## Carrabow

You made a refernce to steel panels...

I have seen two tier roofs that actually create a flow of air.


with misters ...that would be *cool* Wimpy

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## benlovesnuk

> Originally Posted by benlovesnuk
> 
> 
> Interesting, i estimate the old teak to be about  25,000 -30,000 badt without frame. Im talking 15 planks high(as in 3m tall), and 3 meter gaps over 7 bays. With frame the cost would be more like 50,000. It still is pretty awesome for a country dwelling.
> 
> 
> I haven't seen prices like that around here.  Is that in Chiang Mai?  Will they deliver inter-provincially? I could use some teak for the guest bungalow at some point in the future.


Pm for the details of where, regarding going from diffeence provinces just let them know and im sure something can be arranged. It is chiangmai, but not it muang but where all those sellers in the city buy from.
Well done, its looks amazing.

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## wimpy

Today is a very interesting and fun day.  My usual crew four is here, plus five electricians just showed up.  Lots of activity!

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## Necron99

^^ Driver of the black hilux is overcharging you.
The roof looks nice lacquered. How flexible are the panels?

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## wimpy

> ^^ Driver of the black hilux is overcharging you.
> The roof looks nice lacquered. How flexible are the panels?


Agree. That is the head electrician. He has a much nicer truck than me!

Depends on the thickness you use.  Available in 2 -10mm.  We are using 4mm.  Stiffness feels similar to 3mm plywood.

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## nigelandjan

> ^^ Driver of the black hilux is overcharging you.


 No he's not , he's got crap wheels on it

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## wimpy

> Originally Posted by Necron99
> 
> ^^ Driver of the black hilux is overcharging you.
> 
> 
>  No he's not , he's got crap wheels on it


He'll be buying a set of 22 inchers after he gets paid on this job.  :Wink:

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## OhOh

^^The red one at the back has go faster stripes already.

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## wimpy

For all the metal sheet fans out there...  The bathroom finally gets its skin.

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## OhOh

it's going to be a bit draughty in the morning :Smile:

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## wimpy

Ha ha. Wait 'till it is finished.  Will be insulated and lined with Vera board <sp> and teak.

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## Carrabow

Lookin' good Wimpy...



You got fishing near the house?

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## wimpy

> Lookin' good Wimpy...
> 
>  You got fishing near the house?


Thanks.  There are several reservoirs like this about 5 minutes away.  Nice spots for picnics, swimming, and fishing.

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## wimpy

A few shots from today...

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## wimpy



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## WhiteLotusLane

Beautiful.

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## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> 
> Lookin' good Wimpy...
> 
> You got fishing near the house?
> 
> 
> Thanks. There are several reservoirs like this about 5 minutes away. Nice spots for picnics, swimming, and fishing.


 
Thanks Bro!

Looks like your in the SPOT....

I know whats for dinner  :Smile:

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## wimpy

This the Viva board that will line most of the bathroom.  We are cutting it into 120cm squares, routing the edges and using stainless flat head screws that will remain visible. It has an interesting look once it gets urethaned.

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## Carrabow

Are you gonna put in a water heater? Don't let the house electrician give any advise  :smiley laughing: 


You will be on pins and needles if he does....

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## wimpy

> Are you gonna put in a water heater? Don't let the house electrician give any advise 
> 
> 
> You will be on pins and needles if he does....


Just a 4500 watt wall mounted unit. Should be enough to take the chill off in the winter.  Our electric meter is only 5 amp, so I don't want to over do it.  The electricians seem quite competent.  Everything is properly grounded and going in metal conduit.  In a wood structure, I want to keep any shorts contained.

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## Carrabow

Cool Wimpy!!!


I am very happy for you.


Lookin' great Bro.

On a cool evening.... A warm shower will be pleasant. Get my drift? If not...

Water sports are cool with someone you can enjoy them with.





Theres always the Ong water if you wanna wake up   :Smile:

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## draco888

great looking place, would you mind revealing costs so far and estimated cost to completion?

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## OhOh

Have you used the viva board plus the urethane finish in a bathroom before. Just thinking if it's waterproof?

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## wimpy

> Have you used the viva board plus the urethane finish in a bathroom before. Just thinking if it's waterproof?


No I haven't.  It is an experiment.  They say it can be used outdoors, unfinished, in the rain.  With the urethane - plus we are using silicone on all the joints, I think it should be fine.  

If it starts to have problems, I can always tile over it.

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## wimpy

> great looking place, would you mind revealing costs so far and estimated cost to completion?


400k+ at the moment.  Hopefully not much more.  Still have to do the sheet rock - 110 square meters.  Had a quote yesterday which seemed over the top.  Hoping to find someone a bit more competitive. The house is going to be quite a bit more expensive than I originally planned, but also much nicer.

----------


## draco888

> Originally Posted by draco888
> 
> 
> great looking place, would you mind revealing costs so far and estimated cost to completion?
> 
> 
> 400k+ at the moment.  Hopefully not much more.  Still have to do the sheet rock - 110 square meters.  Had a quote yesterday which seemed over the top.  Hoping to find someone a bit more competitive. The house is going to be quite a bit more expensive than I originally planned, but also much nicer.


I meant the whole thing, land and house etc  :Smile:

----------


## laymond

great thread wimpy,cheers and beers.

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## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by draco888
> ...


Happy to discuss building costs.  I prefer to keep other details to myself.  :Smile:

----------


## blowin

400k wow I am really enjoying this tread I wish I could build something like that on
our land down south. Can you give us a rough breakdown on costs so far again well done I am enjoying  watching from afar >>>CC

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## WhiteLotusLane

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by draco888
> ...


Land price varies wildly anyway, depending on where it is, how accessible it is, the type of papers, and especially how much of it you're buying.  It makes much more sense to discuss these separately.

As a rough number for the location, you could budget for 300K-500K baht for a rai. Of course you wouldn't need a rai just for a house, so it could be much lower.  Or much higher if you want it in (or close to) a major town.

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## draco888

> Originally Posted by draco888
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by wimpy
> ...


thanks for that, presumably for that price the land comes with chanote?

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## wimpy

All of the nasty exterior exposed PVC pipe is getting sprayed copper.



The bathroom gets a built in medicine cabinet.



This will be above the upstairs wet bar for glasses and bottles.   :Beerchug:

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> All of the nasty exterior exposed PVC pipe is getting sprayed copper.


It'll get nicked!  :Smile:

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> All of the nasty exterior exposed PVC pipe is getting sprayed copper.
> 
> 
> It'll get nicked!


Good one! LOL

----------


## nigelandjan

> The bathroom gets a built in medicine cabinet.


  Bloody hell mate you will be able to get loads of headache pills in there !  mind you could come in handy to relieve the headaches your thai builders must have trying to work out what on earth that red thing with the bubbles inside it does ! 

  Only joking ,, they have made a lovely job  :Smile:

----------


## Necron99

> Originally Posted by Marmite the Dog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by wimpy
> ...


It's a nice touch. Just outside of Mahachai on your way to petchburi there is a large thai home factory with a few show houses in different styles.
The showpeice is a massive 40 post ayutthaya style house all beautifully joined and finished.
With exposed blue and white pipes and conduit running all over it....
25 million baht.

----------


## WhiteLotusLane

> Originally Posted by WhiteLotusLane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by draco888
> ...


Depends. You can have super expensive land with NS3 papers, if it happens to be in a rurel yet recently desirable location.  As soon as you're buying a lot of land the assumption (and associated pricing) is that it is for agricultural use, so than it having a chanote or just NS3 papers makes little difference.  In town or in a village it would almost always havea chanote, but you get freak exceptions either way: totally remote land that happens to have a chanote, or very near-town land with NS3 papers or even iffy-er ownership arrangements. 

My take: if you're going to live on it and ownership is in a Thai wife/partner's name, then NS3 is just fine. (not talking about issues related to a partner owning the lot, this talking from the perspective of the (Thai) owner.)  Also if you're buying loads of land in a very rural location then you can pretty much forget about it getting a chanote any time soon. If it's in or near a village and it's still on other kinds of papers then it is likely that chanotes will be issued for the area in the not too distant future.   

Anyway, I think this is best discussed in a separate topic.  (If you start one in a different sub-form then let me know, because I only read the construction forum. )

----------


## wimpy

The upstairs wet bar materializes.  Will have a mini fridge stocked with Beer Lao.  Up above, spirits and glasses. Nice and close to the balcony so I don't have to hike downstairs when I want another cold one.  :Wink: 



A bit of teak to dress up the bathroom.

----------


## Carrabow

> The upstairs wet bar materializes. Will have a mini fridge stocked with Beer Lao. Up above, spirits and glasses. Nice and close to the balcony so I don't have to hike downstairs when I want another cold one.


 
Wimpy! You have had booze and beer from the beginning of the project  :smiley laughing: 


Just get some Nam Kang and stock the bar...


Goofy... I used to wake up the shop keep for Leo on long nights  :Smile:

----------


## wimpy

> Wimpy! You have had booze and beer from the beginning of the project 
> 
> 
> Just get some Nam Kang and stock the bar...
> 
> 
> Goofy... I used to wake up the shop keep for Leo on long nights


Oh, you remember that...  That is the problem with these forums.  Everything is out there for eternity!

Just cleaned the Hang Chat Lotus out of Gin.  The coming tax increase has me running scared!

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> 
> Wimpy! You have had booze and beer from the beginning of the project 
> 
> 
> Just get some Nam Kang and stock the bar...
> 
> 
> ...


 
Isaan moon shine works too :Smile:

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> Just cleaned the Hang Chat Lotus out of Gin. The coming tax increase has me running scared!


Big C sell large bottles of Gilbey's for about half of what Tesco sell Gordons for.

----------


## Thetyim

^
Gilbey's tastes like old dish water

----------


## wimpy

> ^
> Gilbey's tastes like old dish water


Gilbey's is fine for me.  320 for a 750ml  bottle at Tesco.

----------


## lom

> ust a 4500 watt wall mounted unit. Should be enough to take the chill off in the winter. Our electric meter is only 5 amp, so I don't want to over do it.


4500 watt equals 20 amp at 225 volt so you have already overdone it  :Smile:

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> ust a 4500 watt wall mounted unit. Should be enough to take the chill off in the winter. Our electric meter is only 5 amp, so I don't want to over do it.
> 
> 
> 4500 watt equals 20 amp at 225 volt so you have already overdone it


Oops.  It is supposed to have a 15 amp safety margin.  We'll see how long it lasts.

----------


## lom

> Originally Posted by lom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by wimpy
> ...


The guy who installed my meter didn't allow me the one I wanted but happily said: "You can overload it 100%". 
If you overload it too much then it overheats and will eventually start to run slower, take that as a hint  :Smile:

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> Gilbey's tastes like old dish water


Tastes no different to any other gin.




> Gilbey's is fine for me. 320 for a 750ml bottle at Tesco.


They do litre bottles in Big C.

----------


## DrAndy

> Big C sell large bottles of Gilbey's for about half of what Tesco sell Gordons for.





> Gilbey's tastes like old dish water


yes, good with proper tonic



> Gilbey's is fine for me. 320 for a 750ml bottle at Tesco


Gilbeys is made under licence in the Philipines, so has a lower tax rate

Gordons is UK stuff, so is well over-priced

----------


## DrAndy

anyway, sorry for that above Wimpy, your house is looking good

should be a great place to live and enjoy

----------


## nigelandjan

Your carpenters are doing a lovely job mate ,, nice bit of workmanship for a change

----------


## wimpy

> Your carpenters are doing a lovely job mate ,, nice bit of workmanship for a change


Yes, I am very pleased with Kuhn Peng.  I just wish I had used him from the beginning rather than the cowboys I started with.  If anyone in the Lampang area needs a skilled responsible woodworker, you can PM me.  I will pass along his contact info - once I am done with him.  :Wink:

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> If anyone in the Lampang area needs a skilled responsible woodworker, you can PM me. I will pass along his contact info - once I am done with him.


Does he fancy a holiday in Udon next year?

----------


## Carrabow

> anyway, sorry for that above Wimpy, your house is looking good
> 
> should be a great place to live and enjoy


 
Yep 

He is almost finished and you are still screwin' around  :smiley laughing: 


Lookin' good Wimpy

----------


## DrAndy

> He is almost finished and you are still screwin' around


eh?  what are you referring to?

----------


## Carrabow

Wimpy?


The Baan is LOOKIN" great.   :bananaman:

----------


## wimpy

> Wimpy?
> 
> 
> The Baan is LOOKIN" great.


Cheers.  We are just about there.  They are putting up the sheet-rock now.  Most of the wiring is in. Bathroom is pretty much finished.  I put a water tank in today, and will install a pump tomorrow.  Once the sheet-rock is up, it will be a matter of trimming things out, and putting the final finish on the floors.  Whew!

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> 
> Wimpy?
> 
> 
> The Baan is LOOKIN" great. 
> 
> 
> Cheers. We are just about there. They are putting up the sheet-rock now. Most of the wiring is in. Bathroom is pretty much finished. I put a water tank in today, and will install a pump tomorrow. Once the sheet-rock is up, it will be a matter of trimming things out, and putting the final finish on the floors. Whew!


 
With Inflation?

How much did you go over budget?????

----------


## wimpy

[quote=Carrabow;2201628][quote=wimpy;2199953]


> Wimpy?
> 
>  With Inflation?
> 
> How much did you go over budget?????


It is coming in around 500,000+.  Originally was thinking 300,000 - 400,000.  But I have opted for nicer fixtures, more teak, and a higher quality finish overall than I had originally planned.  Everything is a lot more expensive than my last build (my reference), which was about 6 years ago.

----------


## WhiteLotusLane

Pictures!!  I need my daily fix!

----------


## Carrabow

[quote=wimpy;2201986][quote=Carrabow;2201628]


> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> 
> Wimpy?
> 
> With Inflation?
> 
> How much did you go over budget?????
> 
> ...


 
Fookin stop worrying...

I made a house too


Ask me what it cost  :smiley laughing: 




I went WAY OVER BUDGET



Stoopid Carra  :Smile:

----------


## DrAndy

> It is coming in around 500,000+


seems very cheap

----------


## Necron99

[QUOTE=Carrabow;2202711][quote=wimpy;2201986]


> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by Carrabow
> ...


Those silly gates....Have they been stolen yet?

----------


## Carrabow

[quote=Necron99;2203460][quote=Carrabow;2202711]


> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by wimpy
> ...


 
Yer Funny,

Those gates protect people like you from my Dogs.

Oh Hey! Granny has a big ass cleaver too, my wifes is an inch smaller... You got to keep it in perspective with Isaan women  :smiley laughing:

----------


## wimpy

Somebody was whining for pictures...  :Smile: 

2000 liters of water storage for the house.


When we bought it, the property had a cattle shelter built from these 4 meter teak poles.


They have now been cut into 2x2s to use on the railings.


Some interiors showing the sheet-rock going up. The wood framework for the 1 meter high bedroom partition was too flimsy.  Built a new one out of steel.

----------


## Carrabow

Smile Brother   :Smile: 



Lookin' GREAT

----------


## nigelandjan

^ Blimey mate I'm all for a bit of fresh air in the bog , but is that wire gonna be ok when the rain drives in ?

----------


## Carrabow

I see the water filters?

Is that for the fridge or drinking?

----------


## wimpy

> ^ Blimey mate I'm all for a bit of fresh air in the bog , but is that wire gonna be ok when the rain drives in ?


Huh? I don't follow.

----------


## Carrabow

> ^ Blimey mate I'm all for a bit of fresh air in the bog , but is that wire gonna be ok when the rain drives in ?


 

I do not know where you are from, but most houses in T'Land have big overhangs. Big gutters catch all that rain for future use.

----------


## wimpy

Major expense details to date.

Cement 11248 baht
Electrical 52000
Labor 175000
Plumbing 34000
Rock 5258
Roofing 11146
Sand 5600
Sheetrock 33000
Steel 36567 (includes metal siding)
Tile 14327
Windows / Doors 31385
Wood 99667 (includes the village house)

Total 509108

----------


## wimpy

> I see the water filters?
> 
> Is that for the fridge or drinking?


Neither.  Just for sediment removal for the house supply.

----------


## Carrabow

> Major expenses details to date.
> 
> Cement 11248 baht
> Electrical 52000
> Labor 175000
> Plumbing 34000
> Rock 5258
> Roofing 11146
> Sand 5600
> ...


 
Yer house ROCKS!!!


Who Cares Wimpy....


Smile  :Smile: 


I am very happy for you, and one day. We will have a beer together!


Dr. Andy wont come because he is a big city slicker  :smiley laughing:

----------


## Necron99

$17,000 dollars....hahahah no one would believe it back home.
Excellent.

----------


## nigelandjan

> Huh? I don't follow.


 Well looking at the sky through the raffia type roof cladding you have up there and the electric wire / junction box under , I would have thought when the heavy driving rain occurs it will pour in

----------


## Necron99

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> Huh? I don't follow.
> 
> 
>  Well looking at the sky through the raffia type roof cladding you have up there and the electric wire / junction box under , I would have thought when the heavy driving rain occurs it will pour in


The bamboo is the ceiling, there is a proper roof on top.

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> 
> I see the water filters?
> 
> Is that for the fridge or drinking?
> 
> 
> Neither. Just for sediment removal for the house supply.


 

Good thinking Brother,

All the valves on my washing machine where jacked up until I put mine in also.

I said the fridge cause those filters have to be changed all the time. Otherwise you get jacked up Ice.

----------


## wimpy

> $17,000 dollars....hahahah no one would believe it back home.
> Excellent.


Oops, forgot the paint... 27658. That stuff is expensive.

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by Necron99
> 
> 
> $17,000 dollars....hahahah no one would believe it back home.
> Excellent.
> 
> 
> Oops, forgot the paint... 27658. That stuff is expensive.


900$ for paint?  :bananaman: 



Lucky Buddy... I was gonna call you Bas&%#*

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by Necron99
> ...


Paint, shellac, wood stain, urethane, alcohol, thinner etc etc.  :Sad:

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by wimpy
> ...


 
You Lucky Bastard :Smile:

----------


## wimpy

I was going to just demolish the downstairs outhouse, but have decided to rebuild it out of some leftover wood posts and more metal sheet. People that come to work on the property will appreciate it.


This 1/2 HP Italian pump will feed the house.  I have one like it for the garden, and it puts out a great flow of water.

----------


## Carrabow

When I started building my house we had one bathroom across the road. Let alone getting there... If someone was inside and you had a T'Land emergency. You know... The shits...


2 Bathrooms are great!

----------


## Necron99

I would add a cold shower head in there somewhere. Great for when you've been working in the garden, don't have to track crap upstairs.

----------


## Thetyim

^^^
How much was that pump ?
I haven't seen one like that before and is the pressure adjustable

----------


## wimpy

> I would add a cold shower head in there somewhere. Great for when you've been working in the garden, don't have to track crap upstairs.


Definitely.

----------


## wimpy

> ^^^
> How much was that pump ?
> I haven't seen one like that before and is the pressure adjustable


6000 baht for the pump and the electronic pump controller.  I don't see any way to adjust the pressure.  I think it is pre-programmed into the unit.  Two main advantages - no need for a pressure tank and it automatically shuts off if the supply goes dry.

----------


## DrAndy

> Dr. Andy wont come because he is a big city slicker



you haven't read my thread about my cottage in the ricefields?

https://teakdoor.com/building-in-thai...fields-19.html

I would come if invited politely

----------


## OhOh

Is your water supply from the town system or your own "well". If the well, was the drilling cost included in your "plumbing" amount shown above?

Why did you position your water tank under the structure.? Would adjacent the building be a better position?

You do realise that at some point you have to stop this building lark don't you  :Smile:  or have you an new project planned?

----------


## wimpy

> Is your water supply from the town system or your own "well". If the well, was the drilling cost included in your "plumbing" amount shown above?
> 
> Why did you position your water tank under the structure.? Would adjacent the building be a better position?
> 
> You do realise that at some point you have to stop this building lark don't you  or have you an new project planned?


We are hooked to the village supply, which comes from a reservoir.  The water is very good. We also have a well which came with the property.  That water is not so good.  We use it for the garden.

Why would adjacent be better? The tank will last longer, being out of the sun.  If the power goes out, the village supply has plenty of pressure to supply the house.

Still have to rebuild the sala into a guest cottage.  The carport needs to be redone as well.  My better half wants a chicken coop too. Plenty of projects to keep me busy!

----------


## OhOh

> Why would adjacent be better?


I was thinking you were using part of the kitchen area, but looking again the tank is under the upstairs shower.

I always thing the more ground floor area which is shaded or protected from the rain the better.

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> My better half wants a chicken coop too.


Seriously bad move unless you don't like peace and quiet.

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
>  My better half wants a chicken coop too.
> 
> 
> Seriously bad move unless you don't like peace and quiet.


Was planning on putting it at the far end of the property.  We already have the neighbor's chickens running around the place.  If I have to put up with chooks, I might as well get some fresh eggs out of it.

----------


## Necron99

^ from what I'm seeing, those scrawny Thai chickens eat all the bugs around the house.

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> Dr. Andy wont come because he is a big city slicker
> 
> 
>  
> you haven't read my thread about my cottage in the ricefields?
> 
> https://teakdoor.com/building-in-thai...fields-19.html
> ...


 
Well Thanks Good Doctor  :Smile: 

I figured yer a city slicker....


My Bad  :Confused: 


Sorry Bro, .... Keepin' it Country

----------


## wimpy

The finished railing.


Admiring his handiwork.

----------


## Norton

Looking very good.

----------


## ThaiAm

Good price go for it.

----------


## wimpy

The sheetrock is done and has been painted a warm buff gray.


Now it needs to be trimmed out with teak base boards and corner pieces.


The electricians still have to come and finish up.


The bath has a ceiling.


The balcony is a pleasant place to be.

----------


## OhOh

Great Interiors

----------


## Carrabow

The place has class!


Looking great Wimpy!

----------


## DrAndy

looks very good

OK one little design quibble - the railings for the balcony look a bit boring

makes it look basic, even with such a nice outlook

----------


## Carrabow

> looks very good
> 
> OK one little design quibble - the railings for the balcony look a bit boring
> 
> makes it look basic, even with such a nice outlook


 
Says the guy who has wrought iron railings from the 60's on his Condo, it aint a Zoo Andy.


But I bet you get good coverage from AIA for jumpers   :smiley laughing:

----------


## DrAndy

^ those are the original railings, Carryboy; why swap them out when they function very well

they were not designed by me and put up new

(although we have added some additional height)

why not post in the correct thread?

----------


## DrAndy

for little extra cost

place the railings slightly closer together and rotate them 45 degrees



gives a very different effect

----------


## wimpy

> for little extra cost
> 
> place the railings slightly closer together and rotate them 45 degrees
> 
> 
> gives a very different effect


Actually, I prefer it the way I have done it.  I like things clean, simple, and not fussy.

----------


## DrAndy

^ that's lucky

----------


## wimpy

Luck has nothing to do with it. Simply a clear idea of what one likes and the ability to execute it.

----------


## OhOh

> Luck has nothing to do with it.


You are such a polite bastard :Smile: 



It looks as if you have the electric cables encased with metal? tubing. Do you intend to paint the tubes to match the supporting framework?

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> Luck has nothing to do with it.
> 
> 
> You are such a polite bastard
> 
> 
> It looks as if you have the electric cables encased with metal? tubing. Do you intend to paint the tubes to match the supporting framework?


LOL.

Went with metal conduit on the advice of my mate that is an retired EGAT engineer.  Seemed like a good idea in a wood structure.  I think I'll leave it as is.  Is has an industrial feel that I don't mind.

----------


## Carrabow

> ^ those are the original railings, Carryboy; why swap them out when they function very well
> 
> they were not designed by me and put up new
> 
> (although we have added some additional height)
> 
> why not post in the correct thread?


 
You are a bully!


Whimpy's house is nice. You know what Doc? I would want a house like his.

In the city, you get fancy.



Doc, Who cares what you think....



You are a Bully, His house is nice   :finger:

----------


## OhOh

It's not just a nice house. he came more or less to budget, he has kept me amused with his build story, no deaths and some very good tips.

My vote for a ***** rating thread.

----------


## Necron99

> It's not just a nice house. he came more or less to budget, he has kept me amused with his build story, no deaths


To be fair, it's not quite done yet..and the choice of metal conduit...

----------


## DrAndy

> You are a bully!   Whimpy's house is nice. You know what Doc? I would want a house like his.  In the city, you get fancy.    Doc, Who cares what you think....    You are a Bully, His house is nice


wow, all I did was say that the railings were a bit boring!

I also have said the house was looking very good, but your comprehension did not extend that far

your type of remark belongs in MKP rather than the building thread

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> You are a bully!   Whimpy's house is nice. You know what Doc? I would want a house like his.  In the city, you get fancy.    Doc, Who cares what you think....    You are a Bully, His house is nice
> 
> 
> wow, all I did was say that the railings were a bit boring!
> 
> I also have said the house was looking very good, but your comprehension did not extend that far
> 
> your type of remark belongs in MKP rather than the building thread


LOL.

This is what most of my neighbors have.  I thought we were looking rather upscale in comparison.

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by OhOh
> 
> 
> It's not just a nice house. he came more or less to budget, he has kept me amused with his build story, no deaths
> 
> 
> To be fair, it's not quite done yet..and the choice of metal conduit...


Most of the major costs have been included in the totals I posted.  Just a bit of finish work yet to pay for.

The majority of the conduit is hidden in the walls.  What is visible are the runs to the track lighting on the beams.

----------


## DrAndy

> This is what most of my neighbors have. I thought we were looking rather upscale in comparison.


well they are genuinely "rustic" and the houses that they are in are probably the same

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> This is what most of my neighbors have. I thought we were looking rather upscale in comparison.
> 
> 
> well they are genuinely "rustic" and the houses that they are in are probably the same


Very.

----------


## Necron99

> Originally Posted by DrAndy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by wimpy
> ...


I have a large supply of small diameter teak logs and have been pondering if I will be happy with the rustic look without having a horse to tie up to them when the time comes..

Are you happy that there is no opportunity for those metal conduits to become live?

----------


## wimpy

> I have a large supply of small diameter teak logs and have been pondering if I will be happy with the rustic look without having a horse to tie up to them when the time comes..
> 
> Are you happy that there is no opportunity for those metal conduits to become live?


I guess I'm more worried about a short and the PVC conduit catching on fire.

----------


## Necron99

> Originally Posted by Necron99
> 
> 
> 
> I have a large supply of small diameter teak logs and have been pondering if I will be happy with the rustic look without having a horse to tie up to them when the time comes..
> 
> Are you happy that there is no opportunity for those metal conduits to become live?
> 
> 
> I guess I'm more worried about a short and the PVC conduit catching on fire.


There is that aspect.
Guy up the road is building this for about 4 mill. All hardwoods.


This is his wiring


he works for PEA!   :mid:

----------


## wimpy

> There is that aspect.
> Guy up the road is building this for about 4 mill. All hardwoods.
> 
> 
> This is his wiring
> 
> 
> he works for PEA!


I don't know what to say about that... Rat's nest comes to mind.

I'm no expert, but I think this is looking tidy.  The electrician seems quite fussy.

----------


## Necron99

it's boggling (my example).
you look like you have found a keeper.

----------


## DrAndy

> There is that aspect.
> Guy up the road is building this for about 4 mill. All hardwoods.
> 
> 
> This is his wiring
> 
> 
> he works for PEA!


I suppose that will all be in the roof space so neatness is not the most important thing

if the wires are connected with insulating tape I would have a worry

I insist on my electricians using proper connectors that do not dry out in time

----------


## Necron99

> Originally Posted by Necron99
> 
> 
> 
> There is that aspect.
> Guy up the road is building this for about 4 mill. All hardwoods.
> 
> 
> This is his wiring
> ...


The whole house is just twist 'n' tape. In the walls, in the roof. All of it. Quite amazing as he is in the business.

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by Necron99
> ...


 
Necron?

Is that your house? Start a thread!!!  Nice  :Smile:

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by Necron99
> 
> 
>  
> There is that aspect.
> Guy up the road is building this for about 4 mill. All hardwoods.
> 
> 
> This is his wiring
> ...


 

Wimpy?

How many Amps can you get?


I had to fook with the electric company for some time. My average bill is about 1000 a month. Peak season don't ask. If I am welding you do want to know  :Confused:

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> Guy up the road is building this for about 4 mill. All hardwoods.





> Necron?  Is that your house?


Are you a fucking Aussie?

----------


## DrAndy

don't be cruel to Carryboy, he has special needs

----------


## wimpy

Let there be light...

----------


## Necron99

Holy crap Wimpy, that looks great.

----------


## Satonic

That looks lovely, Nice one.

----------


## Necron99

The bamboo ceiling, it's been up for a while now and we have had some rain.
Are you having any more trouble with mildew?

----------


## OhOh

A great shot Wimpy. How is the headroom at the top of the entrance stair?

----------


## wimpy

> The bamboo ceiling, it's been up for a while now and we have had some rain.
> Are you having any more trouble with mildew?


The painter did a pretty good job of cleaning up the existing mildew. It doesn't appear to be getting any worse.  Seems the several coats of urethane put a stop to it.

----------


## DrAndy

^ well, you can't see the back but I suppose that is not really important

----------


## wimpy

> A great shot Wimpy. How is the headroom at the top of the entrance stair?


Thank you.

225cm.

Last of the railing goes up today.

----------


## OhOh

Ah, a picture tells a story, thanks.

What is the blue tool the carpenter is using. Is it a clamp of some sort?

Sorry for asking all these questions if you want to tell me to s** off just say.  :Smile:

----------


## wimpy

> Ah, a picture tells a story, thanks.
> 
> What is the blue tool the carpenter is using. Is it a clamp of some sort?
> 
> Sorry for asking all these questions if you want to tell me to s** off just say.


Yep, it is a long clamp.  Very useful when laying floor planks.

----------


## Carrabow

Lookin' good Bro, 

How many Amps can you get from that box?


Air - Con will pull

----------


## wimpy

> Lookin' good Bro, 
> 
> How many Amps can you get from that box?
> 
> 
> Air - Con will pull


It is a 5 amp meter, but in my experience, they can deliver a lot more than they are rated for.  We have a 15 amp meter in Chiang Mai. I routinely run a 7000 watt oven and two air conditioners on it without self destructing.  That said, I don't want and will not be putting aircon in this place.  Excellent ventilation, fans, lots of insulation, and plenty of trees keep this house comfortable even on a very warm day.

----------


## Thetyim

> What is the blue tool the carpenter is using.


Sash clamp

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> Originally Posted by OhOh
> 
> 
> A great shot Wimpy. How is the headroom at the top of the entrance stair?
> 
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> 225cm.
> ...


Can I ask why you didn't put a sloping roof over the stairs?

----------


## DrAndy

I was wondering that, a sloping roof would look much better, but after my last mild criticism was roundly attacked, thought better not

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> I was wondering that, a sloping roof would look much better, but after my last mild criticism was roundly attacked, thought better not


I did ask nicely.

Reminds me of the Japanese house thread. Lovely house spoilt by dreadful tiles, albeit this is not in that league of spoiledness and could be fairly easily remedied if wanted.

----------


## DrAndy

a nice vaulted roof would look much better, straight up under the eaves

----------


## wimpy

Originally I was only going to have just the abbreviated sun roof over the sitting area, with the house eave protecting the upper stairs and entry.  After the first rain storm, it was obvious that wasn't going to be sufficient.

It may get redone in some other fashion in the future.  Not a major project.

----------


## wimpy

Today we are making teak moulding to trim out the interior. If you have priced the ready made stuff at the building supply shops, you will understand how much we are saving by making it ourselves.

----------


## nigelandjan

> but after my last mild criticism was roundly attacked, thought better not


  You going through the change Doc ?  :mid: 





> Today we are making teak moulding to trim out the interior. If you have priced the ready made stuff at the building supply shops, you will understand how much we are saving by making it ourselves.


  Well done to mate ,, all for saving + re using to save money and make good use of + it gives you more satisfaction

----------


## DrAndy

> You going through the change Doc ?


this is the construction forum, so it is better not to get too het up

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> 
> Lookin' good Bro, 
> 
> How many Amps can you get from that box?
> 
> 
> Air - Con will pull
> ...


 
Yep,yer gonna need more than that. 

Ask 'em for 30   :Smile:

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by Carrabow
> ...


Nah. 5 amp is plenty for this house. The only big draw is the water heater, and it is only on for a few minutes day.

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by wimpy
> ...


 

Wimpy, it depends on what you want to do...


One night, we had a tractor that needed repair... 


When the Welding Machine and the grinders where going...


I had a big Issue  :Confused:

----------


## DrAndy

> Nah. 5 amp is plenty for this house. The only big draw is the water heater, and it is only on for a few minutes day.


so what happens when you draw down more than can be supported by the rating on the meter?

----------


## wimpy

Like I say, we have been overloading the 15 amp meter in CM for over eight years, and never had a problem.  The meter in Lampang is rated 5 (15) amp. I think 15 is the safety factor.  It handles my little DC inverter arc welder or my DC TIG welder just fine.  I wouldn't attempt to take a hot water shower at the same though.  :Surprised:  Our first one here blew up, but that was due to water ingestion.  Made a big bang!  It was replaced free of charge.

----------


## DrAndy

thanks, Wimpy, but the rating must be there for a reason

nothing worse than creating a fire risk

----------


## wimpy

> thanks, Wimpy, but the rating must be there for a reason
> 
> nothing worse than creating a fire risk


I didn't know concrete poles burn.

The wiring from the pole to and inside the house is more than up to the task.

----------


## DrAndy

who knows where the fire will occur

your lovely meter a charred and useless mess

----------


## wimpy

> who knows where the fire will occur
> 
> your lovely meter a charred and useless mess


Nonsense.

I'll let you know when it fails.

----------


## wimpy

I'm back...

I was never that happy with how the floors came out.  After at least the second major sanding in their lifetime, some of the mai teng boards were getting quite thin.  Turns out my carpenter wanted to replace his teak floor with tile.  So, I bought his floor (twice what I actually need), and will be laying it perpendicular over the mai teng. Should be very pretty.

----------


## wimpy

Doors for the kitchen, bar, and medicine cabinets are finished.

----------


## DrAndy

they look good; what is the finish?

----------


## wimpy

> they look good; what is the finish?


Thanks.  I think so too.  They are shellacked and top coated with Woodtect clear matt decking stain.  I really like it, and wish I had used it on the entire exterior instead of the 99-DD I used.  99-DD is 1700 baht for 5 liters.  Woodtect is 800 baht a gallon after the rebate and looks better.

----------


## Necron99

Look great, but isn't it normally stain then shellac?

----------


## wimpy

> Look great, but isn't it normally stain then shellac?


The "stains" they sell here are top coats.  They come gloss or matt, clear or in a variety of wood colors. Most furniture painters here use shellac as a sealer/primer.

----------


## Necron99

my 30 year old year 10 woodworking knowledge stands corrected.
still looks great, I will copy.

----------


## wimpy

> my 30 year old year 10 woodworking knowledge stands corrected.
> still looks great, I will copy.


I hear you.  Back in my junior high wood-shop class we were taught to first use a wood stain then several coats of shellac for a finish. This was fine for interior use.  The wood stain was more like a dye.

Here the wood stains are more like a varnish.  I'm curious to know what they are made of.

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> Here the wood stains are more like a varnish.


I think it's because they're not wood stains but coloured varnishes.

----------


## wimpy

"Woodtect Woodstain is the woodstain that protects the wood. It is the product of the newest technology from the United States formulated with special transparent pigment to block UV. It then shows the natural beauty of wood grain and protects the wood from sunshine and rain. It is water repellant but still allows the humidity to evaporate from the wood (so the wood can still breath). The coated color will not peel, blister, or crack. It protects against mould and discoloration from UV. It is easy to coat with the special smooth surface result and wide coverage area. No primer or cover coat is needed. It is available in many color shades or can be mixed to get some colors as desired. It is suitable for both interior and exterior work such as Ruen Thai (Thai style house), log home, door / window frame, door, window, wooden fence, garden furniture, and so on."

You can get them in either oil or water based.  I am using oil based.

----------


## Marmite the Dog

^ You can write 'cat' on a dog. It doesn't make it a cat.

I'm not disputing that it isn't a good product, just that it isn't a woodstain, because it doesn't stain the wood.

----------


## wimpy

According to the Wikipedia definition,  it qualifies as a wood stain...   :Shrug:  Except the one I am using has no colorant, so maybe it is not really a stain??

A *wood stain* consists of a colorant suspended or dissolved in a 'vehicle' or solvent.  The suspension agent can be water, alcohol, petroleum distillate, or  the actual finishing agent (shellac, lacquer, varnish, polyurethane,  etc.). Colored or 'stained' finishes, like polyurethane,  do not penetrate the pores of the wood to any significant degree and  will disappear when the finish itself deteriorates or is removed  intentionally.
 Two types of colourants are used, pigments and dyes. The difference  is in the size of the particles. Dyes are microscopic crystals that  dissolve in the vehicle and pigments are suspended in the vehicle and  are much larger. Dyes will color very fine grained wood, like cherry or  maple, which pigments will not. Those fine-grained woods have pores too  small for pigments to attach themselves to. Pigments contain a binder to  help attach themselves to the wood.
 The type of stain will either accentuate or obscure the wood grain  and neither is superior to the other. Most commercial stains contain  both dye and pigment and the degree to which they stain the appropriate  wood is mostly dependent on the length of time they are left on the  wood. Pigments, regardless of the suspension agent, will not give much  color to very dense woods but will deeply color woods with large pores (_e.g._ pine). Dyes are translucent and pigments are opaque.
 Gel stains are more akin to paint and have little penetrating ability.[1]

----------


## Marmite the Dog

They're intentionally mislabeled for 2 reasons. 1, to make it easier for the customer to select (and don't have to wonder what the difference between a woodstain and a coloured varnish is) and 2, a woodstain sounds more permanent than a coloured varnish, even though today's products probably have little difference in the desired finish.

----------


## Necron99

I think the takeaway here is we now know what you did and it looks great.
The semantics are not particularly important to the thread.

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> The semantics are not particularly important to the thread.


True, but I'm bored.

----------


## RumpyPumpy

Good to see a nice job being done.

----------


## DrAndy

> You can write 'cat' on a dog. It doesn't make it a cat.


very true




> A wood stain consists of a colorant suspended or dissolved in a 'vehicle' or solvent. The suspension agent can be water, alcohol, petroleum distillate, or the actual finishing agent (shellac, lacquer, varnish, polyurethane, etc.). 
> 
> Colored or 'stained' finishes, like polyurethane, do not penetrate the pores of the wood to any significant degree


so which is the cat?

----------


## benlovesnuk

Wimpy, what did you find best for wood floors?

I am contemplating using tung oil, and then shellac to finish. I am going to use this for interior walls in the extension of the house and i might follow your woodtect and shellac combination for exterior. Do you know if it has VOQ's in it?

Those wood planks are very nice, both me and the wife are sad enthusiasts of wood and when we see a nice set of posts, doors, floors or other we go a bit weak at the knees. I hope it passes. 

anyway good lucj with the final touches!

----------


## wimpy

> Wimpy, what did you find best for wood floors?
> 
> I am contemplating using tung oil, and then shellac to finish. I am going to use this for interior walls in the extension of the house and i might follow your woodtect and shellac combination for exterior. Do you know if it has VOQ's in it?
> 
> Those wood planks are very nice, both me and the wife are sad enthusiasts of wood and when we see a nice set of posts, doors, floors or other we go a bit weak at the knees. I hope it passes. 
> 
> anyway good lucj with the final touches!


I think shellac looks nice, but if it gets wet you end up with a white stain (at least when used on mai teng). This photo shows the shellacked floor where a worker left a sweating water cooler.


On the teak floors, I think I will use several coats of gloss urethane and then a couple coats of urethane with a matting agent added.  This is what we used on the wood counter-tops. It looks very nice and should be durable.

I have no idea what is in Woodtect.

Here is the teak going on top of the existing mai teng.

----------


## Carrabow

Wimpy, here is what I made from wood we gathered


Don't stop for One minute  :Smile:

----------


## wimpy

> Wimpy, here is what I made from wood we gathered
> 
> 
> Don't stop for One minute


Nice,  :Biggthumpup:

----------


## Carrabow

When we made that, I wanted it to look 40 years old. The white discoloration on a couple of boards is from the calcium from the concrete.



I really like your home. Could you please send me a diagram of it? 


My goal is to have a Coon. ( I hope I said that right?)

----------


## wimpy

> When we made that, I wanted it to look 40 years old. The white discoloration on a couple of boards is from the calcium from the concrete.
> 
> 
> 
> I really like your home. Could you please send me a diagram of it? 
> 
> 
> My goal is to have a Coon. ( I hope I said that right?)



There are no blueprints.  Back in the beginning of this thread there are some computer drawings.

What is a Coon??

----------


## wimpy

We pulled down and are starting to rebuild the carport.  This allows for a view that is not normally possible.

----------


## DrAndy

It is looking good, Wimpy




> My goal is to have a Coon.





> What is a Coon??


in the Uk it is a black person

----------


## jizzybloke

IMO it looks a bit haphazard but I like things slightly different to the norm!

----------


## DrAndy

what do you think of the workers washing shed on the right?

----------


## jizzybloke

I thought that was the guest wing!

----------


## wimpy

> I thought that was the guest wing!


That is a sala that came with the property.  We used to put up our tent and sleep there before the house was built.  It actually _will_ be the guest bungalow (with attached bath) when I get around to rebuilding it.

----------


## wimpy

> IMO it looks a bit haphazard but I like things slightly different to the norm!


Yeah, me too.

----------


## RumpyPumpy

Why colourbond sheets and not galvanised corrugated iron.

Colourbond looks cheap and nasty.

----------


## wimpy

The galvanized sheet sold in Thailand is very poor quality.

----------


## DrAndy

The sheets don't look as nice as the wood, that is true, although look neat

How are you going to hide the tank?

----------


## wimpy

The tank is not easily seen once the new carport is built.  When viewed from the opposite side, planting will obscure it.

----------


## Carrabow

> It is looking good, Wimpy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> ...


 
A Coon is a compound with several family houses on it. *"A Family community"*


Shame on you Andy,

I hope that explains that question Wimpy...

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> Shame on you Andy,


Why? That's what it means in English.

----------


## DrAndy

> A Coon is a compound with several family houses on it. "A Family community"   Shame on you Andy,


not in my dictionary either


*Coon* may refer to:
Coon, an abbreviation for fur from raccoons and racoon dogsCoon, an alternative name for Maine CoonCoön (Κόων, Κόωνος), a Trojan warrior who fought in the Trojan WarCoon cheese, is the trademark of a cheddar cheese produced by the Dairy Farmers company in AustraliaCoon Carnival, a yearly minstrel festival in Cape Town, South Africa"The Coon", an episode of U.S. animated series _South Park_A racial slur, used pejoratively to refer to a black person, especially an African-American

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> A Coon is a compound with several family houses on it. "A Family community" Shame on you Andy,
> 
> 
> not in my dictionary either
> 
> 
> 
> *Coon* may refer to:Coon, an abbreviation for fur from raccoons and racoon dogsCoon, an alternative name for Maine CoonCoön (Κόων, Κόωνος), a Trojan warrior who fought in the Trojan WarCoon cheese, is the trademark of a cheddar cheese produced by the Dairy Farmers company in AustraliaCoon Carnival, a yearly minstrel festival in Cape Town, South Africa"The Coon", an episode of U.S. animated series _South Park_A racial slur, used pejoratively to refer to a black person, especially an African-American


 

We are talking Isaan,


C'mon Dr.Andy.....


A coon (Sorry if I spelled it wrong) Is a compound with several houses on it that belong to a family.


  And now you know why people mess with you  :Confused:

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> Shame on you Andy,
> 
> 
> Why? That's what it means in English.


 

Sorry if the translation was wrong.


I am not Racial.

----------


## DrAndy

> We are talking Isaan,   C'mon Dr.Andy.....


how would I know that?

c'mon Carryboy, this is an English forum

----------


## DrAndy

> And now you know why people mess with you


because they are not too smart?

oh sorry Wimpy, your thread...

----------


## Carrabow

Sorry Wimpy,


We were out of line... But I like your cabinets.

----------


## wimpy

OK boys, back on topic...

The new carport coming together. Reused several of the wood posts, but put them on concrete footings.  Before they were just wrapped in plastic and planted in the ground.  New steel to support the roof.


Two of our teak trees have volunteered to become roof posts for a new entry gate.


Timber!


Good looking wood.

----------


## DrAndy

lots of rings, must be 20 years plus old

----------


## nigelandjan

Are you allowed to just cut them down like that ?  i.e. no permission ?

----------


## nigelandjan

Looks very remote Wimpy ,, think I'd wanna shooter beside me bed at night

----------


## wimpy

> Are you allowed to just cut them down like that ?  i.e. no permission ?


According to the locals, as long as you are planning to use it right away on your home and not sell it..., no problem.

----------


## Carrabow

> Are you allowed to just cut them down like that ? i.e. no permission ?


 
We do it all the time. Certain areas need permission.

I live next to a royal family forest. Nope... "*Can't touch this* "   :smiley laughing:

----------


## Carrabow

> 


 
I aint much of an expert on wood, I counted 10 years from the rings. The only thing I can say... Is the thicker the ring, shows the rain season.


If someone could give us pointers... Thanks

----------


## DrAndy

the thicker rings are faster growth, so yes

there are some very minor rings, maybe drought years?

----------


## wimpy

I counted ten as well.

----------


## Carrabow

Back to the house Wimpy,


Damn! Looking good and at the right price.


Many people in Septic Land are buying commercial buildings and making houses from them ...


Nothing like having a football game in the living room... 

And some room for a business  :Smile:

----------


## DrAndy

> Many people in Septic Land are buying commercial buildings and making houses from them ...


they have been doing that for years, at least in the UK

all those "dark satanic mills', the old dockside warehouses, even old water towers, all become great homes

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> Many people in Septic Land are buying commercial buildings and making houses from them ...
> 
> 
> they have been doing that for years, at least in the UK
> 
> all those "dark satanic mills', the old dockside warehouses, even old water towers, all become great homes


I want a Silo... without the missle.  :Smile: 

That would make a great mushroom farm... Not like I need any of those  :smiley laughing:

----------


## Carrabow

> I counted ten as well.


 
So you just pay for labor on that wood? How long do you let it cure?

I am asking because in our family we have logs we have gathered. 

One of my Nephews just got hitched, we gotta lot of work to do.

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> 
> I counted ten as well.
> 
> 
>  
> So you just pay for labor on that wood? How long do you let it cure?
> 
> ...


Yes.

These two posts will be use used immediately. They are to hold up a roof over the entry gate.  They will have a rough hewn look.  If I were doing something finer, then I would let them dry out a bit.

----------


## DrAndy

we bought a truckload of teak trunks from the government woodyard a few years ago

they were fairly recently felled but we sawed them up and used them, no problem

----------


## cambtek

Looks like good value to me,there is a lot of timber there.
Go with the concrete posts,keep the termites out of the house-much more important than aesthetics.
I would go with the ply subfloor,it stiffens up the whole structure-use 16 to 18 mm though.Form ply is good stuff and water resistant.

----------


## wimpy

> Looks like good value to me,there is a lot of timber there.
> Go with the concrete posts,keep the termites out of the house-much more important than aesthetics.
> I would go with the ply subfloor,it stiffens up the whole structure-use 16 to 18 mm though.Form ply is good stuff and water resistant.


You better read on.  We are about finished.  If I had it to do over, I would use Viva board for the sub-floor. Fire, bug, and water resistant and cheaper than plywood.

----------


## DrAndy

not exactly environmentally friendly though

not much is nowadays!

----------


## wimpy

Why?  I think it is just a cement wood composite.  Nothing too nasty about that.

----------


## benlovesnuk

Yes, we used Viva board very good, cement wood fiber board, we used in bathroom for tiling. I reccommend it and not bad value either. I think you can use it just about anywhere.

----------


## benlovesnuk

what are the stats on your garage, size and concrete floor etc? cheers

----------


## DrAndy

> I think it is just a cement wood composite. Nothing too nasty about that.


cement is very environmentally unfriendly

----------


## wimpy

> what are the stats on your garage, size and concrete floor etc? cheers


The pad will be concrete 7x5 meters.  Half will be enclosed with those blocks for motorbikes, bicycles and such.

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by benlovesnuk
> 
> 
> what are the stats on your garage, size and concrete floor etc? cheers
> 
> 
> The pad will be concrete 7x5 meters. Half will be enclosed with those blocks for motorbikes, bicycles and such.


 
I know the cost of materials has gone up. As we see it that looks like 45K

Yes/No???

----------


## wimpy

I think it is about 36,000 in materials.  Already had the wood posts.

----------


## Carrabow

> I think it is about 36,000 in materials. Already had the wood posts.


 
Good on ya Wimpy!

Save money when you can. Are you doing all welding on the steel?

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> 
> I think it is about 36,000 in materials. Already had the wood posts.
> 
> 
>  
> Good on ya Wimpy!
> 
> Save money when you can. Are you doing all welding on the steel?


No, my chang does much nicer looking welds than I can do. About 6000 baht in labor as you see it, but that includes work on the new entry gate as well.

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by wimpy
> ...


 
Photos please  :Smile: 

Nice place Wimpy!

----------


## wimpy

The new entry.  Moving the gate in from the road an additional 1.5 meters so I'll be able to safely open or close the gate without the car sticking out on the road.


Rosewood (praduu) kitchen counter tops.


The teak floor is in.  Just need to sand and finish.  He did a good job fitting, so it won't need a heavy sanding.

----------


## Carrabow

Fook Yeah Wimpy!!! lookin good

----------


## Carrabow

> Fook Yeah Wimpy!!! lookin good


 

I can not green ya! Sorry Bro!

----------


## gusG

> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> 
> Fook Yeah Wimpy!!! lookin good
> 
> 
>  
> 
> I can not green ya! Sorry Bro!


Got him for you.

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by Carrabow
> ...


 
I could green you Gus,

Thanks!!!!

----------


## kiwinev

That floor looks really nice, good job.

----------


## nigelandjan

That bit of wood over the worktop ? is that how he gets it level ? nice  :Smile:

----------


## DrAndy

> The new entry.  Moving the gate in from the road an additional 1.5 meters so I'll be able to safely open or close the gate without the car sticking out on the road.
> 
> 
> Rosewood (praduu) kitchen counter tops.
> 
> 
> The teak floor is in.  Just need to sand and finish.  He did a good job fitting, so it won't need a heavy sanding.



looks nice

two questions

1. Why is the teak floor looking so shiny and finished but you say you haven't sanded it yet?   Is that just a trick of the light?

2. The counter will be great - I have wood counters in my houses in Mae Rim

How are you going to protect it from water; even with a good polyurethane coating the water seems to get under in some spots after a while?

----------


## wimpy

> That bit of wood over the worktop ? is that how he gets it level ? nice


No, he is getting ready to cut the opening for the kitchen sink with the router.  He tacks the wood on to guide the router.

----------


## wimpy

> looks nice
> 
> two questions
> 
> 1. Why is the teak floor looking so shiny and finished but you say you haven't sanded it yet?   Is that just a trick of the light?
> 
> 2. The counter will be great - I have wood counters in my houses in Mae Rim
> 
> How are you going to protect it from water; even with a good polyurethane coating the water seems to get under in some spots after a while?


The wood was the floor in my carpenter's house and has been urethaned.  He wants to put in tile, so I bought it from him.  It will be sanded and urethaned with a matte finish.

I was going to shellac and urethane the counter tops.   Suggestions?

----------


## DrAndy

just make sure the edge where the sink goes in is very well protected - don't scratch that area when putting the sink in

Polyurethane the work top before inserting the sink

then polyurethane the whole lot again with attention to that edge after inserting sink

----------


## Mozzbie47

Is it worth sealing all the sink timber edges etc, prior to last fit up ?

----------


## DrAndy

they should be always dry of the lip of the sink is sealed properly

so why not?!!

seal everything twice

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by DrAndy
> 
> 
>  
> looks nice
> 
> two questions
> 
> 1. Why is the teak floor looking so shiny and finished but you say you haven't sanded it yet? Is that just a trick of the light?
> ...


I gave you guys pictures of my floors and it was the same way. What pisses me off, is when I am in socks and I bust my ass.

Maybe bare floors are better? Or throw a handful of sand in the clear coat  :Confused:

----------


## Necron99

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by DrAndy
> ...


I like waxed or oiled.
WTF wears socks here?

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> WTF wears socks here?


I'm wearing some right now.  :Smile:

----------


## Necron99

> Originally Posted by Necron99
> 
> WTF wears socks here?
> 
> 
> I'm wearing some right now.


Wierdo

----------


## Marmite the Dog

^ I was wearing trainers earlier.

----------


## nigelandjan

> Originally Posted by Marmite the Dog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by Necron99
> ...



  Bloody hell I'd been looking for that pic of Dillinger to use in another retort  :Smile:

----------


## Carrabow

On a nice shiney floor / with socks


You cant get NO pushin' with the cushin'


Oh!!  I take it... ya old fellers' don't like rug burn from some good wood  :mid:

----------


## Carrabow

> ^ I was wearing trainers earlier.


 

Hippie Boots :Smile: 


Ya know the ones with the 9 inch heels  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

----------


## Mozzbie47

I wear socks most of the time.

----------


## Carrabow

Put Sock's on this

----------


## Carrabow

If you ever need a good brick man,


Sanee is my brother....

----------


## DrAndy

> I wear socks most of the time.



I only wear socks when my feet get cold, in winter in the UK

or if I wear shoes, which is rare here

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by Mozzbie47
> 
> 
> I wear socks most of the time.
> 
> 
>  
> I only wear socks when my feet get cold, in winter in the UK
> 
> or if I wear shoes, which is rare here


 
I like soft shoes



Birken's

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> I like soft shoes


Hey Jesus! They ain't shoes!

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> I like soft shoes
> 
> 
> Hey Jesus! They ain't shoes!


 
Sketcher's came out with a new one!!!


Sorry Wimpy  :Confused:

----------


## wimpy

Floors have been sanded to bare wood and now have two coats of gloss urethane.  They will get several more coats, then a couple coats with a matting agent added.  Very pleased with how they are looking.

----------


## Carrabow

Lookin good Bro!

----------


## OhOh

Come on "looking good", it's a bloody great house.

----------


## nigelandjan

> Floors have been sanded to bare wood and now have two coats of gloss urethane.  They will get several more coats, then a couple coats with a matting agent added.  Very pleased with how they are looking.



Brilliant !

----------


## wimpy

The Ford is now happy.


Exterior of carport gets a layer of colored cement.

----------


## DrAndy

the floor is beautiful

the car needs a pink coat too

----------


## Zooheekock

Thanks for the thread. I may end up doing something similar (off to look at an old wooden house tomorrow) so much appreciated.

----------


## DrAndy

you can buy all sorts and sizes of wooden houses, at all sorts of prices

have a look at a few to get some idea; there are agents out there who can help you move the wood when you have bought one

----------


## Carrabow

> The Ford is now happy.


 
Yep.

The Ford looks happy Wimpy!!! Good on Ya!

----------


## Carrabow

This is the home thread.

Sell your bags somewhere else  :Confused:

----------


## Carrabow

You have been reported,

This is Whimpy's home page and you have ruined it.

----------


## wimpy

New posts for the new entry gate.

----------


## DrAndy

they look solid - don't come home drunk

----------


## nigelandjan

^^ Is that intentional Wimpy that kinda marbly effect ? or is it just where the render has sucked the paint dry ?

----------


## DrAndy

looks like they have just been painted and are not dry

----------


## wimpy

It is intentional. It is not paint, it is polished cement.  A mixture of red and yellow pigment has been added to a combination of regular and white cement.  Then we add some white cement in spots and blur it all together to get the mottled effect.

----------


## DrAndy

BLIMEY

do the whole house like that

----------


## OhOh

^^Here's me thinking you spent too much time in Italy :Smile:

----------


## nigelandjan

:Smile: Yeah nice effect Wimpy

----------


## Carrabow

> It is intentional. It is not paint, it is polished cement. A mixture of red and yellow pigment has been added to a combination of regular and white cement. Then we add some white cement in spots and blur it all together to get the mottled effect.


 
Sorry for the spammer,


Whimpy, keep the pictures going.... Your place is Very Nice!

Never let someone tell you it is not. Be proud... Be loud...  :goldcup:

----------


## wimpy

Thanks, we like it very much.  We find ourselves spending more and more time there. It is not just the house, but the sense of community when living in a small village. Saturday there was a huge community effort and contest to rebuild these mini dams that slow the flow of water down the mountain side. Sponsorship from Coca Cola.


After building the dams, we planted over 700 trees. Great fun and satisfying too.

----------


## DrAndy

Songsam and coke, with lots of lime juice, hits the spot

----------


## nigelandjan

Nice one Wimpy ,, is that you in the pic ?

----------


## DrAndy

^ he is not a Thai woman!

----------


## wimpy

Finishing touches for the new house for our Pee.  Built that one myself!!

----------


## wimpy

Congrats Mr. President.  Well done!

----------


## wimpy

Back on topic... The outdoor kitchen is officially finished.  Just have go buy a range.


The counters came out nice.

----------


## nigelandjan

Kitchen looking good Wimpy ,, would have thought a couple of gas bottles with burners on the top would suffice for our there .

----------


## wimpy

> Kitchen looking good Wimpy ,, would have thought a couple of gas bottles with burners on the top would suffice for our there .


I do like my herb encrusted roast chicken.

----------


## bobo746

Place looking great mate job well done.

----------


## Carrabow

> Place looking great mate job well done.


 
Yes.... Looking great!

----------


## OhOh

You have a great carpenter, well done.

----------


## Carrabow

Mr. W,

On the back wall of your kitchen... The wood... I would like to do that in my Thai kitchen, on the roof looking up  :Smile: .

Also, did you ever get the straw mat's too stop molding???

If ya did, please send me a PM and tell me how you did it. Our humidity is about 70% all year round...


Carra

----------


## nigelandjan

> I do like my herb encrusted roast chicken.


 Fair play mate ,, some pics in the dinner thread later would be good  :Smile:

----------


## wimpy

> Mr. W,
> 
> On the back wall of your kitchen... The wood... I would like to do that in my Thai kitchen, on the roof looking up .
> 
> Also, did you ever get the straw mat's too stop molding???
> 
> If ya did, please send me a PM and tell me how you did it. Our humidity is about 70% all year round...
> 
> 
> Carra


That is the hardwood siding the house is built from.

Yes.  The trick is to coat the bamboo ply with something immediately. We coated the ply used on the balcony ceiling with shelldrite, shellac and urethane straight away.  It has been through a wet season, and shows no sign of mildew.

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> I do like my herb encrusted roast chicken.
> 
> 
>  Fair play mate ,, some pics in the dinner thread later would be good


Picked up a repossessed gas range from the Singer shop yesterday, so we are good to go.

----------


## wimpy

The new teak entry gate.


Lumber rack in the garage.

----------


## nigelandjan

He is one skilled craftsman , your carpenter / welder

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> 
> Mr. W,
> 
> On the back wall of your kitchen... The wood... I would like to do that in my Thai kitchen, on the roof looking up .
> 
> Also, did you ever get the straw mat's too stop molding???
> 
> ...


 
Thanks Whimpy!!!

It really helps  :Smile:

----------


## Carrabow

> He is one skilled craftsman , your carpenter / welder


 

You got to get him some business cards....


Tell him! he has made a name!!!!

----------


## kiwinev

Outdoor kitchen looks really nice, worktops are great. Going to cook up a storm when the range is in.

----------


## Carrabow

> Outdoor kitchen looks really nice, worktops are great. Going to cook up a storm when the range is in.


 
Shoot, he is cooking up a storm with the boys working :Smile:

----------


## OhOh

Is it your workforce, your ability to translate your requirements - through language or drawings, your supervision or are you only showing us the fourth attempt :Smile:

----------


## wimpy

> Is it your workforce, your ability to translate your requirements - through language or drawings, your supervision or are you only showing us the fourth attempt


A combination of the first three. I can't afford four attempts at anything! 

I have done a few building projects in Thailand.  Without a doubt, my current team is the best I have worked with.  They work by the day, so they have no incentive to do a half assed job.  They know the level of quality I want, and seem to enjoy producing it. I think they like having a client that is willing to buy a special tool, or the proper materials to do a quality job.

----------


## OhOh

You're all certainly doing a great job.

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by OhOh
> 
> 
> Is it your workforce, your ability to translate your requirements - through language or drawings, your supervision or are you only showing us the fourth attempt
> 
> 
> A combination of the first three. I can't afford four attempts at anything! 
> 
> I have done a few building projects in Thailand. Without a doubt, my current team is the best I have worked with. They work by the day, so they have no incentive to do a half assed job. They know the level of quality I want, and seem to enjoy producing it. I think they like having a client that is willing to buy a special tool, or the proper materials to do a quality job.


 
Wimpy!, you are kicking ass!!!

Nice place!!!

----------


## ShilohJim

Wimpy,
Just caught up on your thread. Overall response is; Very Nice Build
Opinions are like ass-holes, everyone has one. Those who commented only shared their opinion. Of course I too would have done some things differently but it wasn't my home so if it makes you happy, screw the differences. I love the floors and counter-top! Top job and amazing crew you assembled.

Shiloh Jim

----------


## wimpy

Got the new entry gate up.  Quite a few man hours in that baby. Weighs a ton!

----------


## DrAndy

Is it electric or man-powered?

----------


## Necron99

^^ those wheels need a bit of work :P
Don't forget a runner stop..often left out of thai gates.

----------


## wimpy

> Is it electric or man-powered?


It is man powered for now. It isn't that difficult to slide, but I wouldn't be at all opposed to adding a motor when the budget permits.  It would be very nice during a rain storm - as long as the power doesn't go off.  

There will be a second hinged door on the right that pedestrians and motorbikes can use.

----------


## DrAndy

^ nice pic

----------


## OhOh

> It is man powered for now.


You'll need to build a small hut for your "man" to live in you know? Make that a "lady" and you kill two birds with one stone.

----------


## Noknoi

> http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80...e/IMAG0092.jpg


Love this view. :Smile:

----------


## wimpy

A few shots of the finished interior.  The carpenter is building some furniture now, so it is a bit sparse.

Sleeping alcove on the right.


Entry and wet bar.  There will be a desk opposite the bar.


From the bar looking towards balcony.


Looking toward sleeping alcove and bath door on right.

----------


## DrAndy

getting very good

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## Necron99

Setting a high bar for others Wimpy.
Well done, I will be stealing a few of your ideas shortly.

----------


## OhOh

I do notice a singular lack of storage areas. Clothes, potions, creams, shotguns etc. do you have any plans?

----------


## wimpy

> I do notice a singular lack of storage areas. Clothes, potions, creams, shotguns etc. do you have any plans?


As mentioned, furniture is being built now. Wardrobe, chest of drawers, desk, bed, and media table.  That said, the upstairs living space is only 42 square meters. Similar to living on a boat, this forces one to avoid aquiring too much crap.

----------


## DrAndy

^^




> The carpenter is building some furniture now, so it is a bit sparse.


wait and see?

----------


## wimpy

And the entry gate for foot traffic is up.

----------


## OhOh

Ah, so. :tieme:

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## nigelandjan

Looking great Wimpy well done mate ,,  have to say in my opinion I wouldn't have put that awful blue tin over the gate , a nice bit of thatch would have given a less industrial look to it ,,,,,,,BUT  its your home mate and thats what you are happy with , so well done , we all like different things . 


 Your place is certainly unique

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## wimpy

> Looking great Wimpy well done mate ,,  have to say in my opinion I wouldn't have put that awful blue tin over the gate , a nice bit of thatch would have given a less industrial look to it ,,,,,,,BUT  its your home mate and thats what you are happy with , so well done , we all like different things . 
> 
> 
>  Your place is certainly unique



That is not tin.  It is the same cement composite tile that is on the house and garage roofs.  I thought it tied it all together.   It will look better when it has teak eaves and a bamboo ply ceiling. One could easily put a layer of thatch over it if desired.  That is actually what I plan to do to the existing sala, which _has_ a tin roof.

----------


## Marmite the Dog

^ I wouldn't have used that crappy cement roof tile in the first place on any of it, but it's your gaff and you've done a great job.

----------


## wimpy

Well the idea was to use as much material as possible from the village house to keep costs down.  It had a servicable roof made from those "crappy cement roof tiles".  So that is what we went with.  I have used them in the past and been happy with their performance.  To me, they are aesthetically ok.  Better looking than Cpac tiles; lighter and cheaper too.  If I was staring from scratch, I would use metal sheet - like on some of my exterior walls.  It is more expensive than the cement tiles.

----------


## blowin

Hi Wimpy just to pass on my congratulations on a great house and thanks for
the pleasure I got reading it here in wet cold Ireland. Myself and my wife own some
land down south (ok my wife owns lol) and I would love to build a wooden house
like that on our farm. So I hope some day when I escape from here!! :Smile:

----------


## wimpy

> Hi Wimpy just to pass on my congratulations on a great house and thanks for
> the pleasure I got reading it here in wet cold Ireland. Myself and my wife own some
> land down south (ok my wife owns lol) and I would love to build a wooden house
> like that on our farm. So I hope some day when I escape from here!!


Blowin,

Thank you for the nice comments.  I am pleased you enjoyed reading about our project, and hope you can make use of our experiences.  I enjoyed overseeing the project.  From personal experience, I can attest that this is not aways the case. This one was relatively painless, and it was fun to watch my ideas come to fruition. We love the house.

Cheers.

----------


## wimpy

The chicken coop takes shape. Fresh eggs before too long - I hope!**

----------


## nigelandjan

^ Blimey !  you gonna be suppling Tesco Lotus ?

----------


## wimpy

What? It is only 2.5x3m. Want to have some egg layers and some cute little Bantams running about.

----------


## can123

Does the chicken coop attract snakes, please ? Serious question.

----------


## wimpy

> Does the chicken coop attract snakes, please ? Serious question.


No idea, but we have lots of snakes anyway.

----------


## can123

> Originally Posted by can123
> 
> 
> Does the chicken coop attract snakes, please ? Serious question.
> 
> 
> No idea, but we have lots of snakes anyway.


Another serious question. how do you live with "lots of snakes", please ? Do you have to be ultra-careful in your every movement ? Are you at ease living with them ? I ask because I don't want to live in a place where there are lots of them because, frankly, I'm quite scared of them.

I saw two snakes when I lived in Pattaya. One was a little green one, about 6/7 inches long, which went down a drain at the back of our house. The other was a long dark one which crossed the road in front of me. It's head was already in vegetation when I first saw it and by the time I was level it had disappeared. It wasn't thick enough to be a python and could have been a cobra. It was in a very built up area of North Pattaya on the road to the Railway Village and I am told that cobras avoid areas where there is significant traffic. We would often go to a market near Siam Country club and men would show off snakes called natters there. It is possible that my snake was one of these.

My wife said I would have good luck as I did not run over the snake. Later that afternoon I had my successful interview for a teaching job at "Satit".

----------


## wimpy

> Another serious question. how do you live with "lots of snakes", please ? Do you have to be ultra-careful in your every movement ? Are you at ease living with them ? I ask because I don't want to live in a place where there are lots of them because, frankly, I'm quite scared of them.
> 
> I saw two snakes when I lived in Pattaya. One was a little green one, about 6/7 inches long, which went down a drain at the back of our house. The other was a long dark one which crossed the road in front of me. It's head was already in vegetation when I first saw it and by the time I was level it had disappeared. It wasn't thick enough to be a python and could have been a cobra. It was in a very built up area of North Pattaya on the road to the Railway Village and I am told that cobras avoid areas where there is significant traffic. We would often go to a market near Siam Country club and men would show off snakes called natters there. It is possible that my snake was one of these.
> 
> My wife said I would have good luck as I did not run over the snake. Later that afternoon I had my successful interview for a teaching job at "Satit".


We have Krites, Cobras, and other non-poisonous varieties.  Normally only see them when clearing piles of wood and such. Make a lot of noise and they slither off. I'm more afraid of the 8" centipedes.  They are nasty!

----------


## wimpy

Some solid teak furniture the carpenter has knocked together for me.

Chest of drawers.


Desk.


Wardrobe.


More to come.

----------


## wimpy

New residents of the coop.

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## sunsetter

keep em coming  ::chitown::

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## benlovesnuk

Wimpy I like the way your wood seems to have been finished, do you know what finish and technique is being used? It looks like a matt and not gloss which is what Im interested in.
Thank you again.

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## DrAndy

> Some solid teak furniture the carpenter has knocked together for me.


they look well made, sort of Scandia design

the only thing I would change are the handles

I like big wooden knobs (as they say)

finished with Teak oil?

----------


## wimpy

> Wimpy I like the way your wood seems to have been finished, do you know what finish and technique is being used? It looks like a matt and not gloss which is what Im interested in.
> Thank you again.


We used Woodtect clear matte decking stain, which actually comes out more like semi-gloss.  You could get a similar effect by mixing matte and gloss laquer. The decking stain has better resistance to water stains from glasses than lacquer.  Takes a lot longer to cure to a hard finish though, so you have to be careful for the first couple weeks..  More like a varnish.

----------


## Necron99

This carpenter looks a little too good to be out in the sticks building shacks Wimpy. does he have a day job?

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## nigelandjan

> I like big wooden knobs (as they say)


For me its the Wimpy style handles being on the large size myself I am allways getting my pockets caught on them big knobs  :mid:

----------


## OhOh

> This carpenter looks a little too good to be out in the sticks building shacks Wimpy. does he have a day job?


And he does it all with one tenon saw, one 1/2" chisel and a hand drill. Bloody marvellous.

----------


## wimpy

Nah, his main tools consist of a power miter saw, hand drill, router,  drill press, home made table saw, power and hand planers. He originally  sneered at my Makita cordless drill, but now it always seems to be by  his side.  :Laugh:   He has worked on high end jobs in CM, but seems to prefer  traveling the 1km to my job site.  Saves him a fortune on diesel.

----------


## benlovesnuk

> Originally Posted by benlovesnuk
> 
> 
> Wimpy I like the way your wood seems to have been finished, do you know what finish and technique is being used? It looks like a matt and not gloss which is what Im interested in.
> Thank you again.
> 
> 
> We used Woodtect clear matte decking stain, which actually comes out more like semi-gloss.  You could get a similar effect by mixing matte and gloss laquer. The decking stain has better resistance to water stains from glasses than lacquer.  Takes a lot longer to cure to a hard finish though, so you have to be careful for the first couple weeks..  More like a varnish.


Cheers. Did you use a urethane finish on the floor? It doesnt look to shiny which is what I want to go for I was thinking Satin wood for a more natural less gleaming glare then stain and finish like lacquer. For the rest of the build I think im going to go Tung oil and shellac for the floor. Use a woostain for the exterior sunny side.  

Anyway Its a very very nice wood house. A dream home. Thanks again.

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by benlovesnuk
> ...


Yes, on the floors we used gloss urethane and added Beger matting agent at a 1-10 ratio.  This gives it a nice satin finish and is MUCH cheaper than buying matte urethane.

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## benlovesnuk

Hi Wimpy. Fantastic, thanks for that! You dont by chance have the tins still lying around do you, I would like to know which ones I would need. IF not no worries!

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## wimpy

This is the matting agent.  If you find any, please let me know.  I need another can, and both Global Houses are sold out.  You can mix it with whatever urethane you like.  The more you add, the flatter the result.

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## Necron99

^What a dodgy can, it that from China?
Concord labeled as B52, move to amusing pictures.

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## buspilot

Very useful thread. Wish I had followed it from the beginning.

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## DrAndy

^ you are allowed to go back and read it all!

HNY

----------


## pasko

Looks Good!!

----------


## buspilot

> ^ you are allowed to go back and read it all!
> 
> HNY


Oh! You are right, but at the moment I could only spend the time to read every tenth page for an overview! Following from the beginning I would have been able to experience it together with him. But, yes, it's a very valuable resource when I have time to go over it again!

HNY to you too!

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## Racin

What did you end up using on the counter tops in the kitchen? I had similar tops made from ashwood in a house and just oiled them thoroughly. Had no problems for ten years. If you do this and something makes a spot or a stain on it, just resand it and oil it again. Oil several times and steelwool in between.

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## Dead Metal

Absolutely marvellous and your carpenter is second to none. I'm not sure i could attain such a high degree of finish, on site, with his rather basic tools. Well done to you both and thank you for sharing....

----------


## F4UCorsair

> Originally Posted by Carrabow
> 
> 
> Are you gonna put in a water heater? Don't let the house electrician give any advise 
> 
> 
> You will be on pins and needles if he does....
> 
> 
> Just a 4500 watt wall mounted unit. Should be enough to take the chill off in the winter.  Our electric meter is only 5 amp, so I don't want to over do it.  The electricians seem quite competent.  Everything is properly grounded and going in metal conduit.  In a wood structure, I want to keep any shorts contained.


That's almost 20 Amps you'll be drawing with a 4500 watt unit!!

----------


## Carrabow

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by Carrabow
> ...



AC single phase watts to amps calculation formula

The current I in amps (A) is equal to the real power P in watts (W), divided by the  power factor PF times the RMS voltage V in volts (V):

 I(A) =  P(W) / (PF ×  V(V)  )

So amps are equal to watts divided by power factor times volts.

amps = watts / (PF × volts)

or

A = W / (PF × V)


Hope this helps

----------


## DrAndy

^ nope

just do the calculation for the actual post

----------


## Necron99

Never heard of power factor.

Power factor definition

The power factor is equal to the real or true power P in watts (W) divided by the apparent power S in volt-ampere (VA):
PF = P(W) / S(VA)
PF - power factor.
P   - real power in watts (W).
S   - apparent power in volt·amps (VA).
Power factor calculations

When the circuit has a resistive impedance load, the real power P is equal to the apparent power S and the power factor PF is equal to 1:
PF(resistive impedance) = P / S = 1
The power factor PF is equal to the absolute value of the cosine of the apparent power phase angle φ (which is also is impedance phase angle):
PF = |cos φ|
PF is the power factor.
φ   is the apprent power phase angle.

The real power P in watts (W) is equal to the apparent power S in volt-ampere (VA) times the power factor PF:
P(W) = S(VA) × PF = S(VA) × |cos φ|

The resistance R in ohms (Ω) is equal to the impedance Z in ohms (Ω) times the power factor PF:
R(Ω) = Z(Ω) × PF = Z(Ω) × |cos φ|


This did not help at all.

----------


## benlovesnuk

> This is the matting agent.  If you find any, please let me know.  I need another can, and both Global Houses are sold out.  You can mix it with whatever urethane you like.  The more you add, the flatter the result.


Thank you very much! Most helpful

----------


## F4UCorsair

That's very impressive Carrabow and Necron, but I was merely responding to his assertion that it's a 5 Amp meter/switchboard (which I found unlikely, but I don't live in country Thailand yet).

Given that the formula for Power calculation is P = VI [or P/V = I] (where P is Power, V is volts, and I is current in Amps) the water heater uses 4500 watts, therefore the current required is 4500/240 = I, and the answer is 18.75 Amps, way beyond the 5 Amps he mentions as the capacity of his meter/switchboard.  If the voltage is 220, and I suspect it is, then the current draw is 20.45 !!

There's not a lot you can run in a house these days at 5 Amps, 1200 Watts @ 240 Volts, or 1100 Watts @ 220 volts.  Rice cookers ~ 500 Watts, but even a small vacuum cleaner is 1500 Watts, electric kettle ~ 2500 Watts, as a  few examples.

Google is your friend Necron??    http://www.rapidtables.com/electric/...r%20definition

----------


## DrAndy

when you say a 5 amp meter that is probably a 5/15 amp which will be fused at 25A  and will be fine for now as  long as you don't run all your aircon and water heaters at the same time

Most modern domestic supplies are 15/45 and fused at 60A, more than enough for most people

----------


## F4UCorsair

Dr Andy said, "when you say a 5 amp meter that is probably a 5/15 amp which will be fused at 25A and will be fine for now as long as you don't run all your aircon and water heaters at the same time

Most modern domestic supplies are 15/45 and fused at 60A, more than enough for most people"

Now that makes sense Dr Andy, but at a straight 5 Amps it made no sense.

I have a 90 Amp main CB, but I run four airconditioners, and they draw a lot when the compressors kick in, though only momentarily.

----------


## wimpy

Was originally going to do a bamboo wall, but I think this will tie in better with the entry and it cuts the noise. It will get the same colored cement treatment.  Its' main purpose is privacy.  When driving by, many people slow to a crawl and stare.

----------


## wimpy

> What did you end up using on the counter tops in the kitchen? I had similar tops made from ashwood in a house and just oiled them thoroughly. Had no problems for ten years. If you do this and something makes a spot or a stain on it, just resand it and oil it again. Oil several times and steelwool in between.


We used urethane with the matting agent added.  So far it is holding up very well.

----------


## wimpy

> when you say a 5 amp meter that is probably a 5/15 amp which will be fused at 25A  and will be fine for now as  long as you don't run all your aircon and water heaters at the same time
> 
> Most modern domestic supplies are 15/45 and fused at 60A, more than enough for most people


Yes, it is a 5/15 amp meter.   We don't have any aircon. This time of year I run the water heater full blast along with the water pump - without problems.  Wish I had gone with a bigger heater,  4500 watt is barely enough to warm the water during the winter. Our water comes from some mountain reservoirs, and is COLD.

----------


## DrAndy

> Wish I had gone with a bigger heater, 4500 watt is barely enough to warm the water during the winter. Our water comes from some mountain reservoirs, and is COLD.


fit a solar heater

----------


## gusG

^ Any idea where he can buy one?

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
>  Wish I had gone with a bigger heater, 4500 watt is barely enough to warm the water during the winter. Our water comes from some mountain reservoirs, and is COLD.
> 
> 
> fit a solar heater


Not a bad idea. I bought a Thai made one from Niyom Panich years ago.  Seemed like a lot of money for what it was.  I may look into making one.  They look pretty simple.

----------


## wimpy

The roadside privacy wall is finished. No, it is not nearly that orange in real life.  The late afternoon sun is distorting the color.


Putting up this bamboo for the other half the property fronting the road.  It is getting a liberal application of Solignam.  Will be interesting to see how long it lasts.

----------


## DrAndy

I like that orange; people will stare at your wall now

----------


## nigelandjan

The orange wall and blue roofs look good together , not sure about the high security bamboo though  :mid:

----------


## Necron99

Ban Nam Som.
Looks nice. It will be interesting to see haw it weathers. I had that finish on some walls of my house in Oz, looked ok for a year or two then went to crap.

----------


## Dead Metal

Nice wall..for that..

----------


## Necron99

Where's Wimpy?

----------


## wimpy

I'm here!  Right now we are working on a 6 1/2 x 7 meter overhang to cover the front patio and entry stairs. As was mentioned here by someone, my little roof over the stairs wasn't such a good idea.  No fun at all during the violent rain storms that are so common in our area.  Will post some pics soon.

----------


## Necron99

Excellent.

----------


## wimpy

So, we chopped off the little roof over the stairs and built this to replace. Now the stairs stay pretty dry - even during the nastiest storms. Lots of shade over the front patio, so it is now usable throughout the day.


The roofing is insulated metal sheet and, as usual, lined with bamboo plywood.


Three 5 meter mai dang posts support it.




The garage/carport is finished. Cut the old chain link sliding gate in to two to make the two doors for the workshop on the left. 


Real sick of struggling to manuver my motorcycle on the river rock driveway.  It is getting paved. We are using the river rock to do a rock wash finish rather than plain concrete.


Sifting out the larger stones to use for the rock wash finish.


That's all for now.  :Smile:

----------


## crepitas

Real nice..just shows ya a bit of imagination and initiative and a house becomes a nice home without breaking the bank! Goodonya!

----------


## Necron99

Think we all knew it was going to happen.
What did those massive poles set you back?

----------


## wimpy

> Real nice..just shows ya a bit of imagination and initiative and a house becomes a nice home without breaking the bank! Goodonya!


Cheers... I really love the place.  I spend almost no time in Chiang Mai anymore.  Screw the traffic and rude a-holes! Much happier here.

----------


## wimpy

> Think we all knew it was going to happen.
> What did those massive poles set you back?


Yep, I admit I fugged up. Never mind. The teak from the old roof has already been incorporated into the new. That is the great thing about wood.  easy to reuse.

I think the poles were 4500 delivered.

----------


## Necron99

^ Each?
That's brilliant.
Mai deng?

----------


## Koetjeka

> Originally Posted by Necron99
> 
> 
> Think we all knew it was going to happen.
> What did those massive poles set you back?
> 
> 
> Yep, I admit I fugged up. Never mind. The teak from the old roof has already been incorporated into the new. That is the great thing about wood.  easy to reuse.
> 
> I think the poles were 4500 delivered.


Wow that's cheaper than I expected! What kind of wood?

----------


## buspilot

Any thoughts on preventing the sheet metal roofing from rusting?

----------


## wimpy

> ^ Each?
> That's brilliant.
> Mai deng?


4500 for the three.

----------


## wimpy

> Originally Posted by wimpy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Originally Posted by Necron99
> ...


They are mai dang (redwood) also known as ironwood.

----------


## wimpy

> Any thoughts on preventing the sheet metal roofing from rusting?


It won't rust in my lifetime. It is not galvanized, it is aluminum/zinc coated. Similar to BlueScope sheet.

----------


## crepitas

re paint /varnish...
a Thai marine carpenter doing some exellent teak work for me told me you should always add some aromatic thinners ..goes off much quicker..it works

----------


## benny628

I need to build one like this as an annex to my house so i can escape the madness

----------

