#  >  > Travellers Tales in Thailand and Asia >  >  > Cambodia Forum >  >  Sab's trip to Angkor

## sabang

Having made a snap decision to finally visit Angkor Wat, the immediate question was how to get there. This is all very simple if you are in Bangkok, or overseas, but here in rural Ubon quite a dilemma. It's not that far actually, as the crow flies, but the standard way to go would have involved travelling all across southern Isaan to Aranyaprathet, crossing the border there and doubling back on myself to get to Siem Reap. That didn't appeal. The other options involved the road less travelled. South of Surin you have the Chong Chom border crossing. Then there is the road least travelled, involving crossing at the remote Chong Sa Ngam border crossing. Here's what 'Travelfish' had to say:-

_Chong Jom / O Smach

This crossing is convenient to Surin in Thailand and Siem Reap in Cambodia. There are a half dozen buses a day from Surin to the border (and back) with the trip taking a couple of hours. On the Khmer side you can either grab a share taxi to Siem Reap or get to Samraong first from where you can either continue onto Siem Reap by share taxi or head east for Anlong Veng.

Chong Sa Ngam / Anlong Veng

This crossing is very convenient to Anlong Veng but little else. If you are heading to Thailand via this crossing, there is no public transport from the border to any sizeable Thai towns, you will need to hitch a ride from the border for around 20km to a sealed road from where there is then occasional public buses, though you are better off to hitch at least as far as Route 24 along which there are very frequent buses._

Public transport to the border was hardly an issue, and CSN being the closest border crossing to Ubon, my wife kindly agreed to drop my travelling buddy and myself there. There was bound to be a border market, I assured her.  :mid: 

The last 20 km of the road there was awful, sealed but full of deep potholes. There had been shells flying around here recently with the Thai/ Cambo border spat, so my guess is some military transporters were responsible for the mess. And remote it was.








The Cambodian immigration office, diagonally opposite, was also a portacabin.




True to form, there was a small, shabby border market there though.





Mrs did some shopping, and we organised a car to take us on to Siem Reap- not that this is difficult, they approach you. $45 US was the agreed rate, our car an old but perfectly adequate Camry.

As we drove out of the muddy market, an interesting sign was on the right-





Pol Pot actually died in nearby Anlong Veng too. The Khmer Rouge originated in this area, not that you'd know it from the friendly people. Notice the bullet holes?  :yerman: 

So, onwards to Siem Reap- only around 80km from memory, and the road was thankfully a distinct improvement compared to the Thai side. I noticed a fairly large structure being constructed about a kilometer from the market- the new casino, the driver told me. I guess the road on the Thai side will improve soon enough.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

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## Bangyai

Looking forward to this but enlarge those pics a bit for more detail. As my art teacher used to drum into us ' fill the canvas '  :Smile:

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## sabang

Farmer Tom and myself have some history- we travelled around Sth America on a shoestring budget for five months, back in 1989. He's a committed backpacker to this day, normally heading somewhere remote for 3 months of every year. This year, his plan was to head onwards to Phnom Penh and then through Vietnam, before doubling back via Laos to my home on the range in Isaan. My plan was to play it by ear- maybe join him in PP for a few days, maybe not. Anyway, he had been in Siem Reap/ Angkor before, and knew of a reasonable place to stay- now with Tom, that means cheap.  :Smile: 

Actually Tom's place turned out to be full- but the immediate area has a cluster of budget accomodation, and this place was just fine-



It was so cheap I forget how cheap it was, 300 or 350 bht. TV, shower, bed, aircon- what else do you need. The budget minded (such as Tom) can save another 100 bht by opting for an identical non-aircon room- they just don't give you the remote control to operate it. 

Conveniently located too for Pub St- the entertainment area of Siem Reap. Just cross the 'bridge of sighs' over this small river, and you're there.



Right across the soi from I-Win is Wat Damrak.




Coming from the Land of lazy smiles, Khmer ingenuity didn't take long at all to impress me. Here's just one example.




What to say about Siem Reap? Well, it's chock full of tourists of every nationality, every budget. That means bars, restaurants and markets selling tourist trinkets in abundance. Prostitutes, beggars, travel agents, Israeli backpackers, all the usual tourist paraphernalia. The attraction is obviously nearby Angkor, but I could think of far worse places to be stranded for a few days. Still some French colonial architecture around too.




We spent a morning wandering around town and getting our bearings. Not much to see really, but still quite pleasant. This park had some pretty ritzy looking hotels around it.







Something was going on at an adjacent Chinese Temple.





And everywhere you go in Cambodia, you will see these places. A virtual one party democracy with a Stalinist personality cult:-





Sitting around the Pub St area, you are bound to be approached by a street kid. I was impressed- they speak excellent English compared to their indolent neighbours in Thailand, and are keen to both learn, and show off their knowledge. An exchange-
_"Hello mister, Where do you come from."_
"I come from Australia"
_"The capital city of Australia is Canberra, Sydney is the largest city, and Australia has a population of 24 million."_
"OK smarty, so what is the capital of South Australia?"
_"The capital of South Australia is Adelaide."_

I gave her 50 bht for that :Smile: . Of course, they want to sell you trinkets and stuff- but I think they do quite well by impressing old softies like me too. To be in Cambodia is of course to be confronted by the horror of it's recent history- and there are still  plenty of amputee's around. It all seemed quite incongruous- with eager to learn, bright kids like these, the future seems bright for Cambodia. Passing thru' the heart of darkness, the place the Khmer Rouge originated from, the people there were just like Isaan folk really- all smiles and relaxation. I trust they never perpetrate a genocide in Isaan. The night before, I saw on the news that some ultra-right wing maniac had massacred a bunch of kids on a youth camp in Norway- the death toll (around 100) as yet unknown. Strange world, indeed.

Anyhow, enough of Siem Reap (which means 'Siam Defeated' in Khmer)- like most of this town, we are here to see Angkor.  :Smile:

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## sabang

> enlarge those pics a bit for more detail


Solly- I use MS Picture manager, and just resize everything to 'Web Large' size for ease of uploading. I'm just a simple point n shoot guy with a humble Olympus T100 anyway, certainly not a bobcock. You might want to check out his photo thread though.  :Smile: 
https://teakdoor.com/cambodia-forum/6...kor-again.html

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## bsnub

Looking forward to more of your posts! You may not take the best pictures but your comments and witty anecdotes are well worth it!

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## sabaii sabaii

> I gave her 50 bht


Can they spend Thai Baht there ?

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## SEA Traveler

Good start Sabang.  thanks for sharing and good pics.

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## Sailing into trouble

Good stuff!

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## khmen

Nice, I really like the Sa Ngam border, as far as borders go. Some lovely mountain scenery ascending and descending either side. I've only done it the opposite way though, from Cambodia to Thailand and onward transport can be a bit of a nightmare! No probs on the Cambodian side I see though, I'll bear that in mind for future reference.

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## sabang

Thanks all :Smile: - I'm off to the village for an appointment with Leo, and will resume this evening.



> Can they spend Thai Baht there ?


Sure can, but the smarter thing to do (bizarrely) is to change your bht to USD in Thailand, because you get a much better deal spending greenbacks in Siem Reap. Everyplace accepts bht & dollars, but the bht rate is usually an insult (Siam Defeated, indeed :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): ). I actually scabbed some USD off Tom, and used that mainly. Small change, when given in Kip, I just gave to street kids & amputee's. 


> Some lovely mountain scenery ascending and descending either side.


Indeed- it's a nice escarpment, and great views. Yes, here we are up on the Isaan plateau- how is it down there in Khmen.  :Smile:  Living in the broad flat rice plains of Isaan, it's easy to forget you are actually on a plateau- and the elevation to that plateau is nice indeed. Many of our resident Thai expats will have approached the Isaan or Korat plateau from another very nice elevation- the Khao Yai area.

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## Pol the Pot

The place of the tribunal that tried Pol Pot has changed a lot. Looks like they've cleaned it up. It used to be a grassy field with some thick wooden poles stuck in at the corners.

Other things to see up at the market are Ta Mok's house and PP's gravesite, 16km away. Anlong Veng itself, 15 minutes down the road, is being modernised, with lots of new, good value guest houses and a casino.

Nice pics, reminds me of the north.

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## Looper

open top song thaew? would like to see him try the brakes going downhill with a full load in the rain  :Smile:

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## dirtydog

^The headlines would be "32 killed in motorbike accident".

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## chitown

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to sabang again.

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## bsnub

^ Haahaa

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## Rural Surin

> Good start Sabang. thanks for sharing and good pics.


Seconded! Hope to view more! :Smile:

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## sabang

As many of you will already know, Angkor is the name of the ancient city, Angkor Wat it's prime Temple- but there are several more temples. These 'Temples' were not actually churches in the sense we know them, as in places of worship, but rather the dwelling place for the patron god of the Monarch- the bigger the Monarch (or the bigger his ego), the more grandiose the Temple basically. I suppose the thinking was, if I take care of you, you'll take care of me. No doubt an imposing piece of pomposity for ones fellow mankind too, be they kings or peasants. Angkor is huge, and the daddy Angkor Wat seems to be the standard starting point for ones tour. A one day pass is $20, a three day pass $40- regardless, you won't see it all or anywhere close- there are outposts and Temples going out 70km and further. Back in the day, Angkor was a city of a million people. A one day Pass was enough for me, Siem Reap is of course crawling with tuktuks anxious to show you around, so off we set- first stop the ticket office. 


Angkor Wat is astounding, but like Bobcock I found that it's scale is such that the casual photographer is hard put to do it justice- and I'm sure he carries considerably better equipment than I. Nevertheless-




Clearly, you do not have Angkor Wat all to yourself.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): 



Horses? We're a long way from Marlboro country.



Renovation and preservation is, of course, an ongoing process.



Part of the beauty of the Angkor complex is that it is set amidst well maintained and preserved parkland and forest- I mean you could easily spend a day there just walking forest trails. These kids weren't just in that pond for fun (though I'm sure it was)- they were catching something. It was nice to see.






















The dull monochrome of the wet season sky (and some light rain), combined with the scale of this place certainly defeated any thought of introducing much in the way of contrast or shadow to my happy snaps- but it is certainly impressive.

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## sabang

Of course the ego of the new King (and his god) would not allow Angkor Wat to go unanswered or unchallenged, thus around 1200ad The Bayon was commenced. While not on the scale of Angkor Wat it is, to my eye, more visually stunning.




H'mm, the soupy sky does me no favors here-

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## sabang

Angkor Thom was the city for which The Bayon was the guardian Temple. Or so I read- which does kind of beg the question where the Angkor Wat royal geezer stored his peasants. I have no idea, frankly.

This pile probably deserves a name, and may well actually have a name. It certainly deserves a snap-

















Phew, poor old sabang was suffering for his art. The beer tents were a welcome sight.



More than just beer tents obviously- and I noticed the food menus were about the same price as the nearby tourist town of Siem Reap. Could be a good idea to eat there on your big day out, but I was merely thirsty. There are two ubiquitous beers in Cambo, being Anchor and Angkor. Given the nuances of Khmer pronunciation, when you order one you usually seem to end up with the other- but fortunately they're both pretty good. Plenty of souvenir stands around too, for that all important Angkor Wat T shirt or paperweight. 

Our trusty steed-



On our way to the next temple, we popped by here-



This was, apparently, some Kings bathing and swimming pool. Now that's just excessive.  :mid:

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## sabang

We now shift from the central Angkor complex, to the eastern Angkor complex. There was something in particular I wished to see here. But please don't let me mislead you by implying that we had 'done' the central complex- nowhere near. Merely scratched the surface actually, although I suppose Angkor Wat and Bayon are the iconic sights. There are a dizzying array of different temples, monuments and what have you in Angkhor. See what I mean by 'Temple fatigue'? After a while they start to blur and homogenise, you hardly know one from another. Or was it that second beer?  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): 

So I did little justice to this rather nice pile, just asked our driver to pull over, admired it from a distance, and took a shot.




Ironically now the sky was blue, making for much better photography. Speaking of Temple fatigue, here are the other Angkor complexes we did not visit at all- the east Baray, northeastern Angkor, the west Baray, Roluos, and Banteay Srei (& beyond).

You've all seen Ta Prohm, I'm sure of it. Apparently, this temple is deliberately kept in a more ruinous state. It's facade is not the most imposing in Angkhor by any means-

 
_(incidentally, that carrot topped kid to the right, pale grey T shirt, was the spitting image of Prince Harry)_


Neither it's state of preservation-









Heres a shot of some tourists getting photographed, they all want to be photographed here-










It makes them feel like Indiana Jones, or Lara Croft. See, told you you'd seen it. :Smile: 




I really liked it here- just dripping with atmosphere.







Hurry up, my turn next-





Aren't those strangler figs something?




If the number of tourists that visit Angkor Wat also made it here, this special place would be totally overwhelmed. It's not exactly the Sahara Desert as it is.


The ride back to Siem Reap was a pleasure too- more ancient buildings & ruins, amidst well kept parklands and forest. You really can't resent the twenty US bucks entrance fee, it's well worth it- and your money is helping keep this place together for many more people to come, I trust.

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## khmen

> This pile probably deserves a name, and may well actually have a name. It certainly deserves a snap-



Think thats called The Baphuon and the detail shots are of the terrace of the elephants.
Baphuon - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Terrace of the Elephants - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia




> So I did little justice to this rather nice pile, just asked our driver to pull over, admired it from a distance, and took a shot.




That's Ta Keo.
Ta Keo - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia







> Speaking of Temple fatigue, here are the other Angkor complexes we did not visit at all- the east Baray, the west Baray,


You did visit one of the barays actually, the giant king's swimming pool! A baray is a man made resorvoir/lake.




> If the number of tourists that visit Angkor Wat also made it here, this special place would be totally overwhelmed


Agreed. The curse of tourism eh? However, there a couple of temples similar to Ta Phrom further out on bad roads, which so far have kept the tourists away in droves. One such temple is Banteay Chmar, or temple of the cats. Banteay Chhmar - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

None of the surrounding trees and vegetation have been cleared and you'll more than likely have the place to yourself should you visit so you actually can still feel like Indiana Jones! I'm going to rent a motorbike in Phnom Penh (No moto rentals to foreigners allowed in Siem Reap) next time I visit and ride to some of these outlying ones.

Excellent thread Sabang, cheers for posting mate.

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## nigelandjan

> incidentally, that carrot topped kid to the right, pale grey T shirt, was the spitting image of Prince Harry)


       Jimmy Hewitt is one of my facebook friends ,,,,,, I,ll PM him to confirm if his son has been there ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, oh silly mistake he,s Charlie,s son aint he  :tieme:

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## palexxxx

Great thread Sabang,  certainly need to look at that area once I get to SE Asia next year.

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## sabang

> You did visit one of the barays actually,


Thanks khmen. And thanks for your post in general- your knowledge of Angkor certainly complements my lack.  :Smile: 

Angkor being such a huge place, and Siem Reap providing such a range of creature comforts at a reasonable price, my intention is to go there again- this time with the wife in tow and a couple of friends of the more standard tourist variety. The way we did it this time, Farmer Tom and I did not want to carry any excess baggage- for all we knew, if say getting transport was harder than we thought, we might have had to overnight in some dusty village in the heart of Khmer Rouge territory, lol. That's fine and dandy with us (we've been in considerably hairier situations), it would just be another fun experience, but not exactly a Thomas Cook tour. Having done it- and really, it turned out to be a doddle- it's easy to do it again with a larger entourage. Might even go slightly 'lux' next time, give the wife a treat. Such decadence is not on the agenda when you're travelling with Tom.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): 

I'd heard that some of these outlying temples are well worth a visit- do you know if it's possible to stay overnight in some local villages, or are you pretty much restricted to Siem Reap?

Still to come, a bit of a wrap up on Siem Reap, and getting home again (the slow way).

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## Bobcock

I made a point of going to Ta Phrom at 5am the first time I went there to avoid the (other) tourists getting in the way of the shots I wanted, although that path up to the Lara croft shot wasn't there when I have been.

I love Angkor and will probably make another final trip there before I leave the region.

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## Fondles

Nice one Sab, Am heading to Phnom Pehn today then heading to siam Reap tomorrow.

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## sabang

Some parting thoughts on Siem Reap. I decided not to head on to Phnom Penh, rather save that for another day combined with a trip to Sihanoukville- another place I have been tardy in checking out. Apart from a border run some years ago, this was my first trip to Cambo so it was good to break the ice. The forthcoming trip back to Ubon was an item of interest too.

Even in the six years or so I've been in Thailand, Siem Reap has changed outta sight. No longer is it decrepit buildings and unsealed roads, with raw effluent running in the streets and gut wrenching poverty at every turn. It is now thoroughly on the worlds tourist agenda- be you a seven star splurger (the Grand Hotel shown in a photo above is a Raffles), or a dormitory backpacker. The reason hardly needs explaining- you are on the edge of one of the worlds supreme ancient wonders, probably only rivalled by the Pyramids. 

Siem Reap is a magnet for Cambodia's bright and ambitious, and a considerable few expats too (perhaps not so bright and ambitious). The very pleasant, competent and perfectly English speaking girl that managed our budget hotel was from Battambang. Coming from Thailand, you can not fail to be impressed by the Khmer people- combining the smiles of Thailand, with a competence, willingness and eagerness to learn that leaves you dumbfounded, given the horrors visited upon this place when someone decided to bring it back to the year Zero. Much of Cambodia remains a pretty demanding place to travel, but not so Siem Reap, PP or (I assume) snooky. You are blazing no trails here.

After a few days, some of the inevitable spin off's of all this tourist activity start to wear thin. The markets everywhere selling the same stuff, the tuk tuk drivers that seem to think you can't cross a street without requiring their services, the thoroughly pleasant street kids that want to engage you in conversation all the time, impress you, and sell you trinkets (_Hint_- just tell them you're from Israel :mid: ). Sure, there's beggars, many of them amputee's, but they were nowhere near as persistent, prevalent, or in your face as I had imagined. I always made a point of dropping some change in the bowl of the 'amputee Khmer orchestra' (land mine victims) that were producing a good sound- that's busking, not begging. Siem Reap was not as visceral or gut wrenching an experience as I had somehow imagined, them days is gone. Not a tailor in sight either, and I certainly didn't miss them.

The dining scene alone makes it worth a visit for us rural Isaanite's.  :Smile:  Even compared to Bangkok, I reckon upscale dining is a bargain here. It now actually looms as an alternative to Bk or Pattaya, for enjoying a few civilised days as an epicurean. The sort of place I might take mrs sab for an Anniversary splurge (and why not check out Angkor while you're there :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): ). Once that casino gets built at Chong Sa Ngam, the Thai access road will improve out of sight- and getting there will be a breeze from where I live. 

Three and a half days doth not an expert make, but some honorable mentions-
*The Red Piano*- this is one of the well established places, Belgian chef, good food, very pleasant atmosphere. Shame about the appalling bht rate they offer you though (carry USD). It's got it together. Apparently it was Angelina Jolie's preferred hangout when she was in town, and she 'invented' a cocktail for the place. Right in the middle of the Pub St precinct too.
*Viva*- didn't expect to find a good Mexican restaurant in this neck of the woods, but I liked it so much I ate there twice. I'm normally loath to recommend a Mexicana- I mean, there are Texans & Californians lurking this forum. But this one gets a plug. Good food, nice atmosphere, friendly service. Pub St area too.
*'That Cambo BBQ place*'- it's right across the diagonal soi running by the I Win Hostel. You won't need more specific instructions than that- the smell of the meat being grilled over charcoal out the front will draw you in with your eyes closed. Surprisingly large inside, and humming with both locals and visitors. It's very cheap, cheerful, very competent and very good. Tom absolutely loved it- he tries to keep me away from places that serve wine. An English language menu too- something you rarely see in Isaan.

Then there's the place with the breakfast menu, where the food in no way resembles the photographs, and with the sort of coffee that tastes like stale dishwater. Luckily for them, I don't remember it's name- you're looking out on the Red Piano anyway. Hey, part of the fun is trying places for yourself.  :Smile:

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## sabang

> Nice one Sab, Am heading to Phnom Pehn today then heading to siam Reap tomorrow.


Hope you have a great time- do tell us what you think.  :Smile: 

Gotta do my immigration thing today, but all that remains is 'getting back, the slow way'. Later.

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## nigelandjan

Fantastic thread mate doing it the non Thomas Cook way  :Smile:   just love those old builing shots

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## SEA Traveler

> Ironically now the sky was blue, making for much better photography. Speaking of Temple fatigue, here are the other Angkor complexes we did not visit at all- the east Baray, northeastern Angkor, the west Baray, Roluos, and Banteay Srei (& beyond).
> 
> You've all seen Ta Prohm, I'm sure of it. Apparently, this temple is deliberately kept in a more ruinous state. It's facade is not the most imposing in Angkhor by any means-
> 
> 
> _(incidentally, that carrot topped kid to the right, pale grey T shirt, was the spitting image of Prince Harry)_
> 
> 
> Neither it's state of preservation-
> ...


I feel fortunate that the times I was at Angkor, there were no, repeat "*no*" roped off areas or barricades.  It was as much touchy feely as one wanted.  I'm guess ing all good things come to an end at some point.

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## SEA Traveler

Sabang, was everything on the street still a $1?   Bottle of water $1.  Post Cards $1.  Bowl of noodles $1.  Coke $1.  hand made crafts by the kids $1.

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## khmen

> I'd heard that some of these outlying temples are well worth a visit- do you know if it's possible to stay overnight in some local villages, or are you pretty much restricted to Siem Reap?


You will be able to find a hotel in any main town or provincial capital. If planning a trip, work out where the sites are you want to visit and find the nearest main town. Word of warning-hotels in the provinces may be fairly basic, depending how remote you are.

Here is an excellent interactive provincial map of Cambodia:Tourism Cambodia, Cambodia Travel Guide, Provincial Guide, Guide to Cambodia
click on the province youre interested in (For remote temples you'll be mainly looking at Banteay Meanchey, Preah Vihear and Siem Reap provinces) and it will bring up loads of info including attractions and hotels. A good resource, probably the best provincial guide to Cambodia online that I've come across.

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## Sailing into trouble

Bloody brilliant post. What I have imagined Asia to be. Cheers for the thread and information. Definitely top priority once the boat hits the beach :Smile:  Cheers. Can not green  but great thread cheers!

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## khmen

> I feel fortunate that the times I was at Angkor, there were no, repeat "*no*" roped off areas or barricades. It was as much touchy feely as one wanted. I'm guess ing all good things come to an end at some point.


Yeah, same as. It's a shame but neccesary for conservation. Think they started roping areas off in 2008/09. I went shortly after and was a bit pissed off, but with the sheer volume of tourists it wouldnt last long if everyone was climbing around like they used to. Like everywhere worth going, it's becoming a victim of its own success. I've heard faint rumblings of annual/daily limits of visitor numbers in the not too distant future, which may not be a bad thing.

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## CalEden

> Originally Posted by sabang
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> Ironically now the sky was blue, making for much better photography. Speaking of Temple fatigue, here are the other Angkor complexes we did not visit at all- the east Baray, northeastern Angkor, the west Baray, Roluos, and Banteay Srei (& beyond).
> 
> You've all seen Ta Prohm, I'm sure of it. Apparently, this temple is deliberately kept in a more ruinous state. It's facade is not the most imposing in Angkhor by any means-
> ...


I was thinking the same thing.

Sabang, thanks for taking the time to share your photos and experiences with us.

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## Bobcock

> Originally Posted by sabang
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel fortunate that the times I was at Angkor, there were no, repeat "*no*" roped off areas or barricades. It was as much touchy feely as one wanted. I'm guess ing all good things come to an end at some point.


God, I didn't notice that awful fucking platform, just gross......this was my shot at 6am before they concocted that mostrosity....

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## sabang

^ That's nice. An early morning jaunt to Ta Prohm and the Bayon would offer some great photographs I reckon. Indiana Jones could come bursting out there any second.




> was everything on the street still a $1?


Unless you can be bothered carrying Kip (in which case you've got to buy a wheelbarrow), $1 is the iconic price for everything small- certainly if you're buying off the street or mobile vendors. Of course for certain things (such as water) it represents a large rip off- but, like, a buck- who's bothered, except the most motivated backpackers. We went to a local convenience store and bought two of those el cheapo plastic poncho things for a buck each and got two bottles of water for a dollar- so there's an easy way to save a buck, lol.

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## sabang

The benefit of the Chong Chom border crossing is that there are regular minibuses from there to Surin- which is on the only train line that goes west to east across Isaan, terminating at Ubon Ratchathani. The obvious choice really- I do like catching trains, and in Thailand it is absurdly cheap and a far more interesting way to see the countryside than through the window of an aircon bus. Using the philosophy of "it's the journey, not the destination", I think trains are a much underutilised resource in Thailand- and a night in Surin seemed a good idea to end my journey. I farewelled Tom over coffee (a bit woozy from the night before)- he was heading south to the capital, I was heading north to Isaan. I would see him in another six weeks or so, after his latest travel epic.

The road from Chong Sa Ngam to Siem Reap is surprisingly good (for Cambodia). The road from Siem Reap to Chong Chom is shit- well, once you branch off the main road. I was a bit amused to find that, to get to the border, I was retracing my steps for most of the way to the previous border crossing- but that's the good part. Then the road gets pretty awful, though still passable, even in a sedan. My driver was very good- he obviously knew this road like the back of his hand.

You know you are very close when you start going up the quite spectacular escarpment to the Isaan Plateau. Chong Chom is no major border crossing, but it still has two casino's.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): 






And little character.




A local tout got me a carton of LM (after trying to fob me off with some cheaper brand called Texas :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): ), and I strolled onto the waiting minibus, and waited. They like to fill up, or close, before they set off. It takes roughly 90 minutes to get to Surin, Isaan time. I was starving actually- I hadn't eaten all day, silly me. So on getting to Surin, it was straight to Norby's (N&N's) for some German comfort food. I have a quirky history with Norby actually- about six years ago, in Nong Khai, I found this German place with quite good food, and a misanthropic owner who regaled me with tales of how bitchy the local expat community was. Four years later, I wandered into a German place in Surin, complete with a misanthropic owner who regaled me with tales of how bitchy the local expat community was. Norby again- a nomadic misanthrope? Anyway, besides the food he has an interesting little import supermarket, where I pick up some goodies you won't find at Big C. My idea for a night out in Surin came to nothing- with a full stomach of his nice roast pork washed down with German dark beer, I slept like a log instead. My hotel of choice is the Majestic Mansion, which is a short walk from most anywhere in Surin (including the train station), and good value at 450 bht.

Starbeam, an American owned bar/ restaurant, is between MM and the train station. The food is reliably good. I enjoyed the best hamburger that I know of in Isaan the following morning, wandered to the station and hopped on the next train.

When you get on one of these rattlers, try to sit near a fan that works.









Smoke break, while the next train passes by.









Towns rarely show their charms from the train tracks. This is Sisaket.





Almost there.



Three hours passes quickly on the train, and a couple of Leo's brought to your seat by the friendly vendors enhances the experience. The train fare was absurdly cheap- less than a can of Leo. I enjoyed the ride and some very pleasant wet season scenery.

I made my own way from the train station to my entrepreneurial wife's bar, to surprise her. She hardly batted an eyelid- oh, you're back. So soon.

"Well, excuse me, I've been through the heartland of the Khmer Rouge, and checked out one of the worlds ancient wonders" I thought to say. But I ordered a meal instead.




The comforts of home.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

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## Bobcock

> Unless you can be bothered carrying Kip


Why Kip?...that's a currency used in Laos.

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## sabang

Well great, I've been through Cambo and don't even know the name of the currency.  :Smile:

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## Butterfly

sab your pics seems to be saturated with white, problem with the camera contrast I suspect

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## SEA Traveler

The comment about temple ruins in outlaying areas of Angkor prompted me to go through my pictures, as the outlaying areas were of particular interest to me while I was there.  I really enjoy getting off the beaten path.  2 of the 1/2 dozen or so less traveled to and more remote temple ruin areas that I went to were the Preah Ko conservation Project being funded by and accomplished by either a German company or the German govt, I was unable to get this cleared in my discussions with some of the locals.  There was also the Banteay Srei Conservation Project which was a joint Thai and Swiss govt funded project.  Another group of temple ruins known as the “Roluos Group” are well worth while spending some time at.  Although I have lots of pictures from both of those renovation projects and the Rolous Group, I would not want to be accused of imposing on the integrity of this great photo thread of sabang’s so I will restrain myself, and with an assumed permission from sabang will just posting a few.

These first 4 are from various sites around the multi Rolous Group temple ruin areas.














Here is a view of the Angkor Wat in a distance from Mt. Bakheng where we spectated one of the most stunning sunsets that I have ever seen.





this picture is of the sunset from Mr Bakheng but it does not do the actual sunset experience and view justice.  But, it is waht I have to post.





Thanks sabang for the allowance to post these to you thread.  I apologize for the intrusion.

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## SEA Traveler

OK, here is one more that I thought you might find interesting.

Out on and in the middle of the Tonie Sap Lake there are little kids in plastic and aluminum wash tubs that paddle up to your fishing type boat asking for coins.  Can't refuse them as it would not be human to do so.

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## Bobcock

I visited the Ruluos Group, some good stuff there until I got chased by a bit nasty bee / wasp thingy......

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## Phuketrichard

> The comment about temple ruins in outlaying areas of Angkor prompted me to go through my pictures, as the outlaying areas were of particular interest to me while I was there.  I really enjoy getting off the beaten path.  2 of the 1/2 dozen or so less traveled to and more remote temple ruin areas that I went to were the Preah Ko conservation Project being funded by and accomplished by either a German company or the German govt, I was unable to get this cleared in my discussions with some of the locals.  There was also the Banteay Srei Conservation Project which was a joint Thai and Swiss govt funded project.  Another group of temple ruins known as the Roluos Group are well worth while spending some time at.  Although I have lots of pictures from both of those renovation projects and the Rolous Group, I would not want to be accused of imposing on the integrity of this great photo thread of sabangs so I will restrain myself, and with an assumed permission from sabang will just posting a few.
> 
> These first 4 are from various sites around the multi Rolous Group temple ruin areas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


agree; best place for sunset.  best deal is to hire a local tuk tuk driver to be at ur beck and call. last time i had the 3 day pass.  he arrived at 5 am each morning for the sunrise and then we went around each day,  Back to town at 11 am or so for nap then back to the temples at 3 pm.  plus then out at night.  All for $15/day!!

I was really lucky in 2009 when i was there as they had the Angkor nght show.  Went in at 7 pm an there were less than 25 people walking around!! plus a show and out at 9:30  Best $15 i ever spent.

You can see the pics at my website   Richard Reitman Photography | Angkor Wat Night show

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## khmen

Cheers SEA traveller, nice to see some of these lesser known places. Would make an excellent new thread...hint hint! THREAD, THREAD, THREAD!
 :Smile:

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## SEA Traveler

> Cheers SEA traveller, nice to see some of these lesser known places. Would make an excellent new thread...hint hint! THREAD, THREAD, THREAD!


I think maybe sabang should sponsor a group trip to Cambodia for a small number of TD members.  We each pay our own way with the Angkor.  We could do a photo documentary of the trip.

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## sabang

> sab your pics seems to be saturated with white


As was the atmosphere, with an overhead sun filtered through a blanket of soupy white/ pale grey clouds. I'm a totally amateur point n shoot mug, but even I noticed that there were few opportunities for emphasizing tone, shade or texture. The whitish haze even gave my humble autofocus a hard time. I can definitely see why people make a point of getting there for the sunrise and sunset.



> maybe sabang should sponsor a group trip


I assume you mean that in a motivational sense SEA T?  :mid: 
If not, your dormitories will be exceedingly humble, the bed bugs anything but.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

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## SEA Traveler

> Originally Posted by SEA Traveler
> 
> maybe sabang should sponsor a group trip
> 
> 
>     I assume you mean that in a motivational sense SEA T? 
> If not, your dormitories will be exceedingly humble, the bed bugs anything but.


as you wish sabang, I'm just looking for another opportunity to go back that way as it was enjoyable the first time and still lots to see and explore.

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## Fondles

Fuckin shithole, 5 hour bus trip from PP to SR took 9 fookin hours.

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## sabang

^^ Indeed. Having now'broken the ice' with Cambodia, I feel like an old hand.  :mid: 
Next trip will be with mrs sab, and I'll put the word around.




> Fuckin shithole, 5 hour bus trip from PP to SR took 9 fookin hours.


 :rofl:

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## sabang

> Thanks sabang for the allowance to post these to you thread.


Not at all- thank you for the piccies SEA- the view from Mt Bakheng is great, and I didn't even know this option existed. For a splurge, there are balloon rides available over Angkor too, which would be spectacular.

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## Primo

Thank you for a very nice travel report. :Smile:

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