#  >  > Travellers Tales in Thailand and Asia >  >  > China, Korea, Japan, Hong Kong and Macau Travel Forum >  >  To Lhasa, Tibet over the Tibetan Plateau

## S Landreth

We've made it to Lhasa after two days of  train travel (from Beijing)  over the Tibetan Plateau. It was beautiful and I've attached a few pictures of the train ride below. I'll will write more about the train ride and attach  pictures later in the thread.






We've checked into the  St. Regis Lhasa Resort and will enjoy a leisure day tomorrow to adjust to the high altitude before we start our tour at the Potala Palace; which can be seen from the resort, two days from now. The  architecture, the interior and landscaping is absolutely beautiful on this eight acre piece of property.

A few pictures of  our room (and the view)






Towards the end of our stay, I'll review the St. Regis for everyone thinking about visiting.

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## robuzo

Brilliant, great view from the room.

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## Aberlour

Awesome scenery and and the best view from a hotel window I've ever seen. Brilliant photos.

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## misskit

Beautiful! 

Looking forward to hearing about that train ride.

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## Mid

just waiting for _patsy_ to turn another shade of green  :Smile: 

keep it coming  :Smile:

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## beerlaodrinker

great stuff, ive been looking forward to your trip report, you certainly dont fock about when it comes to your travel adventures.

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## Necron99

What are you doing there mate?
Pure tourist?

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## Bower

Great start, looking forward to the rest of this thread

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## Latindancer

That train's pressurized, isn't it ?

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## S Landreth

First I want to thank everyone above who helped get this thread off to a good start.




> Looking forward to hearing about that train ride.


About the train ride.


We left Beijing early Wednesday evening and arrived in Lhasa, Friday afternoon in a small soft sleeper (do not travel this distance in a first or second class seat). After a real short discussion with the girlfriend about traveling on the train she thought it best to purchase all 4 seats in the soft sleeper. She didn't want any guests. Some information to anyone who would like to travel by plane to Lhasa from Beijing,..an Air China economy ticket is about 400 US/4 hours.

Purchasing the seats was done after we received our Tibet Travel Permit, by our travel agent in Bangkok. As I understand a foreigner cannot purchase seats on this train until a Tibet Travel Permit is issued. 

Once on board they will come around and exchange your paper ticket with a plastic ticket. They will exchange your plastic ticket with your original paper ticket before you depart the train. 






This was a long uneventful  journey (45 hours) and I would suggest only doing the north to south run (over the Plateau) as opposed to the east west then north south route as we did. There is a hygiene problem on the train with this many people and travelers coming up from the other end of the train using the bathroom/s in our car. One last thing, you might think about bringing your own fruit/food on board.

The views and most everyone we came in contact with (even police and security) were great. We were the only foreigners on the train and it did seem everyone enjoyed our presence as we did theirs.

About the east west run. I wanted to see it and am happy I did, but will not do it again. It made the trip too long.

Beijing Train Station


Dining Car








our train and engine


our seats












About the north south run over the Plateau. Everyone should see it at least once (soon!). It was beautiful and I'm sorry the pictures below will not convey that message because I had to shoot through a dirty reflecting glass window.
















Once you exit the train and reach a security check point (everyone exiting the train has to pass a checkpoint for papers/ID) you will be set to the side and a police officer will come to check your Tibet Travel Permit before walking you over to your guide. The guide will then sign off (the officer will keep a copy of the Tibet Travel Permit with your travel guides signature) before you will be allowed to leave with your guide.

Lhasa Train Station





> Awesome scenery and and the best view from a hotel window I've ever seen.


three sides to the suite

one side,.


face view and where most of the windows are located,..


last side,..





> What are you doing there mate?
> Pure tourist?


just a tourist




> That train's pressurized, isn't it ?


It is not pressurized and the girlfriend thought it was funny when she went for one of her Milo packages (small cylinder shape) and it looked as if it were about to burst. It expanded like a balloon, during the evening.

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## Cujo

Awesome SL. Thanks for taking the time, looking forward to the rest.

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## aging one

It a dream of mine to do that train journey. Wonderful just wonderful.

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## Phuketrichard

looks great ,
The portola looks so clean compared to when i was last there in 1986

The train is something i have wanted to do ( have traveled by plane, bus an bicycle to Lhasa)
PLEASE what was the cost for the train
and that beautiful room!!!

Do they still have the little cardboard airplane in front of the Portola where the Chinese get their pictures taken?

So many questions to ask ya

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## S Landreth

This morning we visited the   Potala Palace. If you go, get ready for 380 steps to the top. You are not allowed to take pictures past a certain point so I'm unable to show you what's inside. Inside you'll see story telling murals of the Dalai Lama's and the Tibetan people, other works of art, ornate tombs of different Dalai Lama's, study rooms and prayer rooms, etc. It can be a bit much if you're not into it.








Back of the Palace




Later that morning we went to visit the Dalai Lama's Summer Palace (Norbulingka). It is a nice area to visit while in Lhasa and shouldn't be skipped while you're here.


Yesterday we took a nice short leisurely walk into a market area close to the resort (Bakhor Street). We walked through a Muslim neighborhood to get into a Tibetan market area close to the Potala Palace.


The men in the picture below are selling Dong Chong Cao (Cordyceps Sinensis) and are negotiating the price under the purple towel. 


When we reached the Tibetan neighborhood (old Lhasa) we found people walking in a large circle around the neighborhood. As I understand they make this circle three times around the Jokhang Temple (the most holy place in Tibet) area. This is the middle circle. There is a large circle and a small circle. The small one is inside the temple itself and the large circle surrounds the (old) city of Lhasa (3 hour walk, I think). 














you are looking at dog pelts below





> The train is something i have wanted to do (have traveled by plane, bus an bicycle to Lhasa)
> PLEASE what was the cost for the train and that beautiful room!!!


One seat for a soft sleeper will run you about 200 US. The upper seat is a little less than the lower seat. The room is another story. I would rather not quote a price on the room. These travel threads are viewed for years after we are finished with them and the room rates will/might change over the years.




> Do they still have the little cardboard airplane in front of the Portola where the Chinese get their pictures taken?


I looked and I looked for that airplane and didn't see it. We saw the front, back and most of both sides of the Palace. Maybe's it's gone?

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## Davis Knowlton

A fascinating thread - thanks!

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## cdnski12

A nice thread. My bro & family did a similar trip in the 1990's; but I think they flew from Chengdu, where he was working. It always amazes me why Asians (other than Japanese) can not keep their trains, planes, long distance buses & bus stations clean; in countries where labour costs are dirt cheap? Most public WC Facilities are pathetic! While hotel rooms tend to be clean, most could do with a better cleaning. Mind you, in 5 years of traipsing around most of S/E Asia, I have not been bitten by a bed bug, nor (amazingly) ever got sick eating street food. Could it possibly be my daily consumption of local beers protects my digestive systems? Go figure?

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## S Landreth

Today we left Lhasa for the Ganden Monastery, which was a nice scenic drive. A little information; from our Tibetan guide, you might not find on the net (here in China). 1959 the Chinese government blasted the monastery off the mountain. Nothing was left of the structures except for one picture I have shown and marked below. The Tibetans have been rebuilding the monastery since (they received permission from the government). They are still building as I write.


in the monastery,.....


what was left of the monastery after the Chinese government blew the original off the mountain,...


A view 2/3's the way up to the monastery,....


While we were at the Ganden Monastery a Sky Burial was being performed. I was fortunate enough to be there and get some pictures, from a distance. I was told by our guide that security would let me walk to the site itself but I was to take no pictures. The security wasn't strict and I could have taken the camera with me but decided it might be too much for anyone to see (posting pictures here at TD), so I decided against it. 

pathway to the Sky Burial site,.....


view along the pathway,...


It was still early and the ceremony was just starting. A fire was lit calling for the vultures and I only captured one lowly bird flying above. However within a half hour the sky was full.

Sky Burial site,........






view from the site,......


Our guide told us 60% of Tibetans that pass away use a Sky Burial ceremony and the other 40% use a water method. The same ritual of chopping the deceased up is used, however in a Sky Burial the vultures get the remains and with a Water Burial the fish get the remains. One reason (of many) Tibetans do not eat fish.

Later we drove back to Lhasa where we visited the Sera Monastery. Everything is still original in this monastery and worth a visit if you need a blessing.

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## S Landreth

Yesterday we headed for Gyantse to see the Tashilhunpo Monastery; which we visited this morning, and along the way we were able to view the countryside, Lake Yamdrok Yumtso, some glaciers and the Pelkor Chode Monastery.

Our first stop was at Lake Yamdrok Yumtso where tourists are able to get their pictures taken with a Yak or a Tibetan Mastiff.




After lunch we stopped at the Pekor Chode Monastery before settling in Gyantse.






First thing this morning we stopped by the Ta Shi Lhun Po Monastery; which is the only monastery where the Chinese Government pay the monks a salary, then the local market before heading back to Lhasa.




local market,......


Views along the countryside










rapeseed,........


traffic police,.....

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## Phuketrichard

great report!!!!!!!
It has changed so uch since the 80's!!

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## Albert Shagnastier

Great shots - great trip. Cheers.

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## Cujo

Great, just great, thanks.

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## Neo

Wonderful pictures...



..thanks for sharing the experience  :Wink: 

outa greens

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## patsycat

> just waiting for _patsy_ to turn another shade of green 
> 
> keep it coming


In keeping with my Irish roots, I've opted for a delicate emerald green this time!!

Great thread, very interesting.

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## reddog

> Great, just great, thanks.


second that.

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## Latindancer

Re. the last photo.....
It has always fascinated me how some mountains resemble buildings and battlements. The Tibetans have bridged that gap and made it all the more fascinating.

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## Rural Surin

> It a dream of mine to do that train journey. Wonderful just wonderful.


You're never to old, mate!

Lovely and informative thread! :Smile:

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## S Landreth

Two days ago we went to visit Namtso Lake; the highest saltwater lake in the world, and learned some things along the way. 


Again tourists are able to get pictures with the yak they like


Out in the parking area our guide was purchasing some yak meat because he says you cannot trust the yak meat being sold in Lhasa.


We were privileged to visit with some Tibetan Nomads on our way back from the lake. On our way to the lake I saw a solar panel  next to a tent and wondered what is was being used for. I asked the driver to stop; on our way back to Lhasa, so I could get a picture and some young girl (maybe 16) approached me trying to sell me a hand full of Dong Chong Cao and I politely declined her offer while walking towards the tent (made of yak fur). She saw that I was curious about the panel/s and invited me to see her home. I went and got the girlfriend knowing she wouldn't want to miss this. 

I followed both the young Tibetan and the girlfriend inside the tent and started taking pictures (after getting permission) while the girlfriend was offered a seat and some butter tea which she kindly accepted, from the girls mother. I was able to get the young girls mother to show me what they used the solar panel for. Churning yak milk. I was impressed.

Progressive Tibetan Nomad






Tibetan Nomad


Yesterday we went to visit the Drigung Monastery and the Detrong Hot Springs/Tidrum Nunnery. 

The Drigung Monastery was completely destroyed; during the revolution, and is being rebuilt as you'll be able to tell from the pictures below.

old monastery is just above the guest house you see in the picture below


Dung Chen


Route (steep narrow washed out dirt roadway with no guardrails that needs reworking) and view leaving the monastery


This monastery is the most prestigious place to hold a Sky Burial and families all over Tibet will send their departed loved ones here if they can. A lot of the departed are brought in (hired help) and some are brought in by family members. There is a waiting period (usually one evening) and family members can stay at the monastery's guest house to make sure the ceremony goes off as the family intended. We were told; because there are so many families that send their loved ones here, some families request certain condition be met for their loved one. An example is when they move the departed to the mountain top (ceremony site) the family might request that the departed be transported alone, instead of with others who have passed. The monastery uses a cart hooked behind a small tractor to move the bodies (sometimes in bulk).


the cart and tractor


They were already performing the Sky Burial for the morning when we were there and by the time we had left two bodies had been left for the next days ceremony (the two sacks you see in the picture below).


We stopped by the Tidrum Nunnery and Detrong Hot Springs which are located next to one another and are under construction. You can rent rooms in the area, if you would like to spend more time in the hot springs (there were some nice looking Chinese women there when I was visiting,..no bathing suits). The nunnery doesn't receive the money the monasteries do and construction (re-building) is a slower process.


When we were leaving the hot springs area two nuns requested a ride into two different towns we would have to travel by to get back to Lhasa. We took both with us. After dropping off one nun we stopped for lunch (a picnic) and the one nun left with us was enthralled with the girlfriends pictures on her Note II.

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## wasntme

Awesome thread. You should be a travel writer as you evoke much for the curious. 

How did you go with the altitude? Namtso is climbing higher again and just on that lake [great pics] where does the salt bleach from??

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## S Landreth

That's it. It was a nice eye-opening experience (heartbreaking at times and I have stories) and again I want to thank everyone who participated.

I would like to suggest something to anyone who visits Tibet. Hire a Tibetan tour guide. 

We had two wonderful guys with us, our driver and tour guide. Please do not hire a Chinese Tour Company to show you around. You will be misinformed. It's not that some of the Chinese Tour Operators are trying to mislead you, it's just not something they know about. Their history books tell a different story.

An example (we found out): Recently the Chinese Government sent some people to instruct the Monks at the Potala Palace not to correct the Chinese guides while tourists were visiting, or there would be trouble. What was happening was that some of the monks would overhear (a lot of the monks speak/understand different languages) Chinese guides misrepresent the history of the Palace and the monks would inform the tourists the real history. 

A note about some of the links in this thread (especially travelchinaguide.com). I was in China while posting on this thread and the links I send you to, may not be accurate or give the reader the real history you might be looking for. If you're outside of China you might want to do a search on the subjects/monastery/etc. to find a more accurate version on the subject and not the watered-downed version I have sent you to. China will block most of the sites I wanted to link to.

Do's and Don'ts: Don't take pictures of any government buildings, police personnel, military personnel/equipment, inside any monasteries unless given permission and try not to take pictures of older Tibetan people without their permission. Taking pictures of tourist spots is OK, but keep government people out of the pictures (check/security points).

Trust no one! Police have stopped wearing uniforms and carrying guns and instead wear street clothes. Some monks are military men wearing robes so do not discuss political matters with anyone, while in a monastery.

Do not ask your guide political questions in public. You could jeopardize their livelihood and their employer (maybe even their family's well-being).




> It has changed so much since the 80's!!


After reading Phucketrichard's comments about seeing Tibet 20 years ago, I wished I had also and do think if you're thinking about visiting, do it soon. Tibet will be different 20 years from now and will be nothing like it was when Phucketrichard saw it 20 years ago. Even our guide was telling/showing us things and would say, it was different 20 years ago.

About our stay at St. Regis, Lhasa. Nice resort, helpful/courteous staff. Each morning they would set out a buffet style breakfast and there were three different restaurants (Chinese, Western and Tibetan) to choose from for dinner. We ate at each restaurant; for dinner, once and the food was fine. But to tell you the truth, we enjoyed going out into the street and purchasing our meals from the locals.

We stayed at the Everest and Kailash Suites while visiting and the girlfriend preferred the Kailash.

St. Regis Lhasa, Everest Suite 





St. Regis Lhasa, Kailash Suite





Some shots in and around the resort,.










The Tibetan restaurant and meal,..







> Namtso is climbing higher again and just on that lake [great pics] where does the salt bleach from??


While we were in Tibet our guide kept telling us how rich in natural resources Tibet was and that the Chinese were mining and removing minerals all over Tibet so I figured the salt (another mineral) in the lake was natural. And it does seem to be according Wikipedia: _A salt lake or saline lake is a landlocked body of water which has a concentration of salts (typically sodium chloride) and other dissolved minerals significantly higher than most lakes (often defined as at least three grams of salt per litre)._ snip _Salt lakes form when the water flowing into the lake, containing salt or minerals, cannot leave because the lake is endorheic (terminal). The water then evaporates, leaving behind any dissolved salts and thus increasing its salinity, making a salt lake an excellent place for salt production._




> How did you go with the altitude?


It is something to consider when traveling up that high (in such a short period of time). But we did adjust quickly, although with a few headaches along the way.

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## Happy Dave

Awsome, maybe, but boring scenery. Don't think i would waste my money going there.

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## Bangyai

Brilliant thread. Thanks for taking me somewhere I'll never be able to go.

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## Thaiedward

Superb thread. Thank you for sharing your adventure with us.

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## wasntme

Done yourself proud mate and inspired me to do the same or something [read..need to be told what by mum], although i do not have the photographic skills that you and bobcock and many others have. 

Wish i did and will try. 

Thanks for the education. Really, really worth it.

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## wasntme

> Awsome, maybe, but boring scenery. Don't think i would waste my money going there.


sorry thread but this typifies so many farangs on samui and just why they are there.

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## reddog

> Superb thread. Thank you for sharing your adventure with us.


ripper of a thread,made me keener than ever to get there

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## coodhi

Fantastic report and killer photo's.  :bananaman: 
You rock dude.

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