#  >  > Travellers Tales in Thailand and Asia >  >  > Vietnam, Nepal and Burma  Travel Forum >  >  Burma Yangon January 2013

## terry57

In January myself and a friend made a two week trip to Burma. We hit 3 destinations Yangon- Bagan and Mandalay. I shot many Images so will have to break this subject into 3 separate threads so lets kick it off with Yangon. Pack the bag and its game on.

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## terry57

Anyway, I had a rough start by cocking up my Visa as I was under the Impression that I could get a Visa on arrival. They turned me away at the Airport so I spent a mad day getting an express visa which I did obtain at the last minute. A night in a hotel near the Airport and on the plane the next day. My friend had to fly in alone, most impressed she was.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):  The Visa office on Silom road is an absolute muppet show, much too small now for the punters that are heading that way. I suggest you post your passport away or pay an agency to do it. Not worth the hassle as you'll see in this photo.

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## Loy Toy

Great work Tezza.

Not may picture threads about Myanmar so I am looking forward to seeing your offering.

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## natalie8

Looking forward to more. I'm interested in going there and I would love to see and hear about your trip - the good, the bad and the ugly.

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## terry57

Once you actually fight your way through the poxy little door you are confronted with this bollix. Two shitty little windows serving multiple punters. The poxy Embassy is only open between 9.00AM to lunch time, thats when you need to get your passport in by then it closes and opens again at 3.00PM for pick up till 4.30PM. Jeez don't get me started.

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## terry57

After a nice night in the Airport Asia hotel I front up to Don Muang ready to fly.

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## aging one

Terry I live 5 minutes from that hotel and would have loved to put you up for the night. Now please keep the photos and commentary coming.

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## terry57

Arrived in Yangon on a nice new A320 with AirAsia. Must say I was most surprised as I was greeted by a brand new Airport with connecting Air bridges. I thought I would be walking across the tarmac accompanied by Buffaloes, chooks, dogs and assorted wild animals.

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## terry57

To say I was gob smacked by the Airport was an Understatement. I had done no research into this trip and left it all up to my friend to sort. My gig was our road trip once back in Thailand. I was under the mistaken impression that Burma would be similar to traveling India which by the way is real hard work. How wrong was I. A very nice greeting I had complete with friendly custom officers. They where actually happy to have us there. Bloody brilliant.

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## natalie8

That's great to hear and see! Great stuff so far.

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## terry57

Once I cleared customs I wandered outside for a look see. Shit what a surprise, no stinky backpackers, very few tourists and an organized transport system.  On the money front there are official money changes at every airport so no need to piss around changing money on the black market as you will read in the guide books. Burma has made huge progress in the last year I found out. The banks in the Airport offer competitive exchange rates so change a shit load of dosh when you get there.They only exchange $ US,  Euro and strangely enough Singapore Dollars. Just make sure your cash is in pristine condition or they wont take it, we got caught with a few notes. Also make sure you have enough cash for your trip, very few places take credit cards but charge 27%. No shit shirlock. Bewarned. ATM's have arrived but are only available in a few top end Five star hotels.

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## terry57

I had a pick up waiting provided by our guesthouse so that was very handy and saved me pissing around trying to get to my accommodation. No probs as Taxis are cheap and plentiful. I get into a rickety old bus with ten other punters and off we go through the streets of Yangon and my first experience with this great country.First impressions were good.

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## terry57

This sight really had a big impression on me. This dude was the representative of our Guesthouse and had his life savings securely tucked away into the back of his longy. Most of the guys wear a dress but are not pooves.  :Smile:  Anyway, try this in my city and the wallet would be felched in approximately 2.5 light seconds.  This sight told me that Yangon is still a very safe city for locals and Tourists. Actually it was quite a surprise at just how welcomed we where in the country where ever we went. Bloody brilliant. We stayed in Guesthouses and minor hotels simply because staying in top hotels means your money goes straight into the coffers of the Military Government. Staying local means your dollars go to the local people which is a big consideration if one likes to support the locals.

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## terry57

45 minutes later our bus pulls up outside my Guest house and its game on. Jeez, gagging for a nice cool beer after yesterdays drama. The bus was an old public transport bus which ply the streets of Yangon.

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## Bower

Great start to your trip report,thanks

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## terry57

We stayed at the " Motherland Inn 2 ", it was located approximately 15 minutes out of town in a residential neighborhood with no other guesthouses or hotels anywhere near by. Perfect for me as I like to be out a bit and walk exploring the local area. We payed $ 30 for a reasonable sized room with large bathroom, AC and Aircon plus breakfast. Bloody bargain considering how prices are rising quickly in the accommodation department, tourism is just starting to kick off and there's a distinct lack of mid range accommodation in the country. Get here quick if you want to see Burma void of mass tourism.

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## terry57

This ain't koh San Road, one could fire a gun down the street and not hit anyone. I was in my element here. I'm standing directly outside the Guesthouse.

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## beerlaodrinker

Sounds like you got of to a shitty start with the visa, what are you using to post your pics by the way, I cant see em

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## cheekyman

excellent post most informative!!

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## terry57

Some of the staff having a friendly game of takraw. Quite casual these lot are and just cruise along. They have not been ruined by mass tourism yet and like us dudes. Nice feelings abound. See how long it lasts EH.

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## terry57

This dude comes rambling down the road flogging god knows what.

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## terry57

This is the choice of transport for the common people, they even get around the city in the traffic.  Regards the motorcycle, they are forbidden in the city of Yangon and when you do see one it is being ridden by a government official only. The common people cannot ride them on the streets which after experiencing Vietnam 4 times is quite refreshing. The streets seem quiet void of motorbikes.

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## terry57

Funny little things they are as they carry two paying punters. One faces forward and one faces backward, dam hard work for the dude providing the get up and go but there making an honest buck.

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## terry57

After a tug and scrub up we decide its time to settle in for an afternoon of beer drinking. After the day before I was well up for an all day session of lager and assorted madness. We teamed up with a Canadian guy and his wife and started knocking the head from the big boys.Bloody good beer by the way but not as good as Dark beer Lao.

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## terry57

Yes well, carry on EH, no rules on holiday is there except paying the man the next day with a blinding hangover.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

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## taxexile

> After a tug


a what??

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## terry57

Even though DD has passed over to the big Katoey factory in the sky I still think of him when I'm doing my picture threads. Here you go DD just for you mate, sorry I'm pissing crooked but I'm a tad out of it by this time but I'm wearing my best bum bag In your honor.   :Smile:

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## terry57

Out of the shitter and time for a belly full of tucker, directly next door was a family doing Indian food. This young dude was the king cockie when it came to Naan bread. He had his brick oven going on in the background made his bread there and then and then banged it onto the side of the oven with his bare hands. Been doing it forever and a real pro he was. Bloody yummy as well with a side dish of Dahl and spices.

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## terry57

> Terry I live 5 minutes from that hotel and would have loved to put you up for the night.



Thanks AO, we will meet up one day. I'll be back in August.  Cheers

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## woolyback

keep it coming good thread

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## the dogcatcher

Can give prices for beer and food, and maybe "the other".?

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## misskit

Excellent, Terry. Hope there's plenty more of this great stuff!

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## terry57

^^

The beer was good and cheap same as Thailand around 50 Baht for a large one, food is also the same as Thailand depends on where you eat, the thing that is going to change drastically is the price of accommodation as there simply not prepared for the influx of tourists.

Some people have been forced to fly out simply because they did not prebook rooms and got caught out.  This is high season I'm talking about. 

Bloody hard to book rooms as well simply because the Internet is shite, cant prebook in one email. Must wait for a reply from the hotel them reconfirm that your coming.

Took my friend months to actually get firm booking for us and she's in the business. Only got a room in Mandalay in the last week before we left. 

Suppose if your going 5 star all the way its not a problem but prices are stupid in that range. 

Cant prebook flights on the Internet Either, must rely on your hotel or guest house to sort them. These flights are quite expensive  simply because of the shortage of planes and increasing demand.

These things are keeping the Backpackers away at the moment, mainly older independent travelers with the coin to spare and package tour people doing the full monty. 

Certainly not like the rest of Asia where one falls over travelers every 5 metres, that's what I loved about it, many times it was just us banging around the joint.

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## terry57

> Excellent, Terry. Hope there's plenty more of this great stuff!


Oh shit yes Miss Kit, I have 1500 Images to sort through for a 7 week trip. Hang in there it will be a slow thread, maybe come back next year EH.  :Smile:

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## terry57

Back to the Indian Naan bread. The young dude reaches inside the kiln behind him and bangs the kneeded bread onto the side of the kiln. When its perfectly cooked he reaches in and pulls it out again. One man one job and he was the man for it.

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## terry57

The end result complete with two great cups of Chai. Around 30 baht for the lot.

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## terry57

This guy was also dishing up some brilliant looking tucker.

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## terry57

Rush hour in the restaurant.  We spent our time outside conversing with the locals who where very happy to talk with us, had no choice really as we where the only farang there most nights.  :Smile:

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## terry57

Eating beetle nut is big business in Burma, every one is on the gear including the street dogs. Shits me no end seeing punters spitting that red shit everywhere.

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## terry57

Beetle nut is like a religion in Burma, Christ if they where on the cocaine I could understand it but that horrible shite. Whatever EH.

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## terry57

Nice tree this one. In Burma there are fresh water stations all over the place for the locals. Here's a few examples.

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## terry57

Only one year Ago Yangon only had electricity for 7 hours a day. because the infrastructure is improving they now have 24 hour electricity but its far from reliable.
every business and hotel has there own power generators ready to crank up. Surprised to see so many new units around, shows the economy is improving.

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## Bangyai

Bloody good thread Terry .........  bloody good  :Smile:

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## terry57

The Burmese are incredibly organized in the way they pack there stores, everything has its place and its a work of art how they stack there wares. Very proud and clean people as well.

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## terry57

lots of action on the streets, book stalls are all the go.

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## the dogcatcher

have'nt sent a green in 3 odd years, i'm mean like that. so here's yours.

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## The Master Cool

Bloody ocker mate. 

Looking forward to this (and the other threads). Nice one.

Crossing from Thailand to Burma it really is amazing how nice, happy, genuine and appreciative the Burmese are.

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## terry57

> Crossing from Thailand to Burma it really is amazing how nice, happy, genuine and appreciative the Burmese are.


When I travel to new destinations my main effort is to try and connect in some way with the locals as too me this is what its all about.

The thing with the Burmese is that they have not cracked on that tourists are  easy to scam and rip off. Not once in our trip did any local try and scam us or over charge us.

Seeing them walk around with there wallet hanging out of there longies took quite a bit of getting used to.

Bloody awesome to experience this in a new destination. The people seem to have an innocence about them, I reckon its because they have not had mass tourism yet and experienced the problems tourism creates.

Also the locals are committed to despising the Military Government to waste energy scamming tourists.

How long this will last is anyone's guess but I feel privileged to experience it now. Blinding trip it was.

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## terry57

The Billy is on the boil ready for a nice cuppa. The Burmese do good tea which I well appreciate after a hard night on the turps.

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## terry57

Ok, its onto day 2 after a heavy day 1. We hunt out a phone shop and pay around $ 20 for a Sim card with 30 minutes talk time on an overseas call. Local calls were piss all. Sim was good for 30 days. A local told us that only a few years ago Sim cards where heavily regulated by the government and very expensive to purchase. Times are a changing in this country.

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## terry57

Cyber cafe. Don't bother as you'll get old waiting for a connection. It was so slow that I give up and went off line for the entire trip.

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## terry57

The side walks are in a state of disrepair but they do try and keep the city clean which was great stuff. Very little shite lying around.

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## terry57

Watch where your walking, heaps of obstacles abound. Notice the new cars ? There everywhere. The Government has a program to pull old cars off the road. Great Idea.
Again very surprising to see so many new motors around.

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## Rural Surin

Top work, Ter...

Keep it coming. :smilie_clap:

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## draco888

not so surprising about the Sing$ it's the hard currency of SE Asia and the vast majority of foreign investment into Burma is routed through Singapore.

Great thread.




> Once I cleared customs I wandered outside for a look see. Shit what a surprise, no stinky backpackers, very few tourists and an organized transport system.  On the money front there are official money changes at every airport so no need to piss around changing money on the black market as you will read in the guide books. Burma has made huge progress in the last year I found out. The banks in the Airport offer competitive exchange rates so change a shit load of dosh when you get there.They only exchange $ US,  Euro and strangely enough Singapore Dollars. Just make sure your cash is in pristine condition or they wont take it, we got caught with a few notes. Also make sure you have enough cash for your trip, very few places take credit cards but charge 27%. No shit shirlock. Bewarned. ATM's have arrived but are only available in a few top end Five star hotels.

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## terry57

Yangon really blew my mind in what I seen as I really thought I was going to a 3rd world shithole. New buildings are springing up everywhere, condos also going up along with new hotels. I read the other day that Yangon will next year have a new 44 story hotel in its center. The place is booming. The big money is to be made in Tourism. Want to get rich ? Start a backpackers for the incoming unwashed scum and you'll mint it.

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## terry57

Live up top and walk down stairs to work. Love these little shops, all sorts of shit in there meticulously layed out.

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## terry57

These dudes where restoring a rather large anchor, all happens on the street.

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## terry57

This was the local hardware store, all recycled and sorted nuts, bolts, spring washers and any other washer a human could use.

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## terry57

Dudes hanging out doing the business.

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## terry57

This seems to be the norm in Yangon local gaffs.

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## terry57

But there's a heap of these new condos around, we are now entering the city as we have walked into town from our guesthouse. The previous photos could be classed as the burbs. Great walk into town with lots to see if you take your time and actually take it all in.

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## terry57

The Salvation Army. I was surprised to see them here.

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## terry57

Now this was a pleasant surprise, quite a few new and very clean public toilets around the joint. Cost around 5 baht to get rid of a nasty load after a night on the lager and curry.  :Smile:

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## terry57

Nicely restored building in the center of town.

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## Davis Knowlton

Spent two weeks there sixteen years ago; lot of changes!

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## Albert Shagnastier

Great thread Tel.

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## terry57

The nasty poms used to run the show in Burma so there's heaps of colonial Buildings kicking around. Many are very nicely restored such as the main fire station.

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## terry57

The oldest vehicles on the road are the local buses.

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## terry57

This is the main tourist draw in Yangon but with an entry fee of $5 US  I had no need to enter.

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## The Master Cool

Nice. 

Old colonial aspects really add to life in Cambodia, Laos and Burma. From old colonial architecture to the grub. It's really a pity Thailand didn't get a good seeing to by the French way back when.

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## terry57

Last year public gatherings where forbidden by the Military Junta. This year there are live concerts happening. Power to the people.

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## terry57

More coming tomorrow.

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## gusG

> The Salvation Army. I was surprised to see them here.


What was their soup like Terry?

Great thread again, good stuff.

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## terry57

Some fine architecture in this town.

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## terry57

Monks doing the rounds drumming up business.

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## terry57

These guys are not to be messed with as with all agencies with power in Burma. One don't see many patrolling the streets though.

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## terry57

The cross river ferry. Busy boat this one is.

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## terry57

A photo for our friend Loytoy, buckets sitting outside the Guitar shop.

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## terry57

No machines here, all hand made blanks.

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## terry57

Getting the muchies by now and came across this Indian restaurant so it was in for a feed. All well dressed working people in here.Cant go wrong when one sees a restaurant full with locals.

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## terry57

Best bloody biriani Ive ever had. Cooked perfectly and this was there signature dish. All for some tiny amount of money.

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## terry57

Moving right along we find another food hall and beer station above the massive main market so it was in there for a look see and a nice cup of tea.

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## Tickiteboo

Great thread Terry - appreciate the effort.

 My only experience of Burma so far is half an hour in Victoria Point on a visa run a few years ago, but would love to go see it properly. As you say, hopefully before the influx of tourists ruin the place.

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## beerlaodrinker

> Bloody awesome to experience this in a new destination. The people seem to have an innocence about them, I reckon its because they have not had mass tourism yet and experienced the problems tourism creates.


Your bang on, I was expecting hassles along the lines of what india is like and the same level of grottiness, but was pleasantly surprised at how clean the place was and how nice the locals are , easy place to visit, even with 2 little kids in tow, hope they dont get to fuked up with the big influx of punters arriving daily,

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## Loombucket

Another excellent thread terry. Keep it coming please!

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## ltnt

Quite good reading Terry.  Whats with the footlocker for a travel bag?  Obviously you don't travel light?  Keep going man.

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## terry57

Upstairs we go into the food hall,  it was set out like this, once again just us and no farang. Great stuff, actually we walked around the city all day and seen just a handful of round eyes. So refreshing compared to Thailand.

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## terry57

So we sit down and have a nice cup of tea and a cake. The staff where falling over themselves to serve us. Nice it was.

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## terry57

After a bit of a rest it was back on the street again. This is one of the main thorough fares through Yangon.

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## terry57

Back on street level and cruising along the side street that runs along the main market. This market was massive and the stuff held within was mind boggling.

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## terry57

In Australia one would find these sowing machines in a museum, here there still making them new.

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## terry57

New batteries. Pick one.

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## terry57

The machine shop. These dudes making springs.

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## terry57

Yangon is well on the way to improve there infrastructure and have got a hard on at the moment building new side walks and improving drainage so money is being spent on these things.

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## terry57

Were walking back to the guest house after banging around all day. Don't think we will try and get a spot on that bus EH.

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## terry57

The locals seem to be living quite well around the city with many blocks like this.

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## terry57

Later in the afternoon we head off to the Swedagon Pagoda. Every tourist that visits Yangon comes here as it really is something special. The Angkor Wat of Yangon one could say. This Pagoda and surrounding area is massive, many Thais and Buddhists world wide head for this place. Clinton and Obama visited last year.Its claim to fame  is its height at 100 meters and its age at 2600 years, oldest pagoda in the world they claim. Bloody beautiful place to see. Just another temple some may Say. I think not.
Best visited at sun set.

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## terry57

Lots of action going on outside the Pagoda.

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## terry57

These guys where carving out some nice statues. Bloody talented people around.

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## terry57

Keeping busy and making money.

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## terry57

Giving the Buddha a quick touch up.

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## terry57

There are 4 separate entrances to the Pagoda, pics cannot do this place justice as once you walk passed those 2 figure heads you enter the belly of the beast. Its about a Half K walk inside a massive hallway before one reaches the Pagoda and inner court yard.

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## terry57

Ive just entered the hall,  looking back down the road.

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## terry57

This hall way that leads up to the Pagoda is a work of art in its own right. Intricately carved wooden ceiling and carved art works decorating the walls. Amazing stuff. Long steep walk up.

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## terry57

Just keep on walking and one reaches the top eventually.

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## terry57

Ok, we have made the walk up payed $ 5 US to enter and are confronted by a massive court yard full of smaller Pagodas surrounded the main 100 meter high structure.  The $5 entrance fee was worth every cent as the money goes back to maintain the structure.   Sort of thing one must be there to get the experience same as Angkor Wat. In the late afternoon sun it gleamed.

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## terry57

A couple of Thai girls doing there thing. Many Thais here.

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## terry57

Pilgrims doing the thing.

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## terry57

Plenty of good stuff here to hold ones interest for a few hours even if one has visited every Temple in South East Asia.

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## Ratchaburi

Thanks Terry great thread mate

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## terry57

The main pagoda is surrounded by many smaller chedis covered in gold leaf. Spend a while scrapping that stuff off and one could make a nice wedge.

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## terry57

This dude was well engrossed in his meditation.

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## natalie8

Great stuff, Terry! I love the pagoda and your report on it. Keep 'em coming.

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## pseudolus

Great thread - but can we now assume that all the birds in Myanmar are now working in Thailand (got two crackers in my security team in the village). If not, pics? lol

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## terry57

Tour groups are big business in Burma, this lot where French, lots of them around at the main Tourist spots.

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## terry57

This lot where from Bangkok must be making there pilgrimage EH.

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## terry57

The large fella must get a start, big one he was.

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## terry57

I like this pic so in it goes.

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## terry57

This is the jewel in the crown, the 100 meter high Shwedagon Pagoda. Awesome sight and well worth the trip.

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## terry57

After a big 2nd day it was in the taxi and straight into the local bar up the road from our guest house. Once again only us and the locals. A brilliant way to end the day.

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## terry57

The owner told me he had draft stout on tap so it was lager out the window and into the black stuff. My favorite brew.Happy days.

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## terry57

Pub munchies Yangon style, looks a tad sussed but incredibly tasty. Ate a heap of that stuff when downing an ice cold beer.  :Smile:

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## terry57

Day 3 coming tomorrow.

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## cdnski12

WOW!! Clean public toilets ... I've never seen that, other than in Singapore! Great Threads. Keep the photos coming. You have convinced me to give Myanmar a go on my next SE Asian Trip.

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## bsnub

Awesome work Terry!

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## raycarey

great thread, terry.

a couple of currency questions...

1. how pristine do the US notes really have to be?  I've got some hundreds whose only potential 'problem' is a crease down the middle from being in a wallet for a few months.  IYO, would they be accepted without hassle?

2. you mentioned that the fee for the pagoda was US$5.  was that actually in US dollars or local currency?

3.  are 1000 baht thai notes widely accepted?

4.  i've read that some hotels and businesses ONLY take US dollars...would it be worth bringing smaller denomination notes (singles, fives, tens)?

thanks, and keep the pics coming.

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## kingwilly

> Once you actually fight your way through the poxy little door you are confronted with this bollix. Two shitty little windows serving multiple punters. The poxy Embassy is only open between 9.00AM to lunch time, thats when you need to get your passport in by then it closes and opens again at 3.00PM for pick up till 4.30PM. Jeez don't get me started.


Hasnt changed in almost 10 years!

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## terry57

> a couple of currency questions...
> 
> 1. how pristine do the US notes really have to be?  I've got some hundreds whose only potential 'problem' is a crease down the middle from being in a wallet for a few months.  IYO, would they be accepted without hassle?
> 
> There incredibly anal concerning the foreign exchange, we went to a bank and 6 people pored over every note, the slightest tear,  mark, blemish or wot not and they wont have a bar of them. Regards creases down the middle if they are too creased they could possibly knock them back if they got the shits on but bring them anyway.
> 
> 2. you mentioned that the fee for the pagoda was US$5.  was that actually in US dollars or local currency?
> 
> One can pay in local currency, no probs anywhere concerning entrance fees. 
> ...





A trip to Burma needs some preplanning totally different gig than most of Asia.

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## terry57

Regards changing money, only recently have the Government come to the party and began offering the correct exchange rate. Before everybody changed money on the Black market with deals done on the street.

Those days are gone, the black market still operates and the street dudes will offer you a higher rate. Don't play the black market game as you will surely get ripped off and I read many stories in our guesthouse from tight punters chasing a few extra kip and being ripped off. You have been warned.

Don't even change money before you go as all the airports have official money exchanges offering the correct rate.  Do it when you get there. Plenty of banks around as well so no probs.

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## kingwilly

> 4. i've read that some hotels and businesses ONLY take US dollars


About six years ago I was there and I could not even use credit card for paying for a domestic flight, cash only. I ended up running out of cash and had to change thai baht at a really exorbitant rate. 

As I recall it a slight crease in the USD was no problem.

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## terry57

Its day 3 and we are back pounding the pavement checking things out. It was January so the weather was perfect for getting around, just a pleasant temperate not to hot with cool nights. If you are coming for the first time come either November, December or January or February.  After that its heating up quickly same as Thailand. To get the best out of this trip you need to be here when the weather is good. Anyway Manual labor is the norm and these lads are swapping out a motor.

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## terry57

Sugar cane juice is big over here.

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## terry57

My belt shit its self so I hunted out the nearest repairman that inhabit the streets. Important to try hard to spend your money with the locals so they get cash and the scum Military Junta get fok all. I'm big on supporting local people and hard core against exploitation of people because of status or wealth.No dole here so nice to sling some cash there way for services rendered.

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## terry57

Talking about scum this is the local police station. Corrupt as they come and supported by the Junta. Not hard to see that there tooled up waiting for the next revolution to come there way. Been a few show downs with the people rising up against the regime and each time the Police and soldiers have come in hard core and just blown a shit load of people away. There day will come.

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## terry57

Many locals cannot afford mobiles so all over the place one will encounter these local telephone booths.

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## terry57

These are the local telephone repair guys. Work that lot out EH.

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## terry57

You see guys pushing there drink carts everywhere even in the heavy traffic.

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## terry57

The funny back-front taxi. Slim punters only please.

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## terry57

I like this pic. It shows the old, that being the bike taxi's and the new which is the wide roads in good condition, the new buses and the new condo in the back ground.

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## terry57

The deal with the new condos is that if its 6 floors or under it does not have to provide lifts.  Lifts are a relatively new to Burma simply because there Electricity supply was so erratic they simply could not have one unless they had emergency generators. Remember every thing in this country was controlled by the scum Junta and very expensive. Things are loosing up a tad with the push towards semi-democracy.

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## terry57

A very special photo for our good friend Willy. Onya mate.  :Smile:

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## terry57

Graffiti is not the go, the pigs would cut ones hand off if caught so I was surprised to come across this.

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## terry57

And this.

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## terry57

The two big mammas of tourist hotels in Yangon, The Traders hotel and don't know what the other one is called. One things for sure you will be parting with a fist full of dollars. ATM machine in there though. Next year there will be a new 44 story hotel punching up next door.Watch that space.

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## terry57

Big sucker is The Traders.

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## terry57

Next stop is the 3 hour circle train trip through the burbs of Yangon. This was a great trip observing the locals going about there daily business trading there goods and checking out a bit of the country side. All the action was inside the cabin though.Madness and mayhem it was, right up my alley.  :Smile:

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## terry57

Beautifully restored Train station.There still working on it.

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## terry57

One notices just how casual and calm it was at this station, no mobs of mad people getting around. So laid back this place is.

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## terry57

I'm big on Train trips and would of loved to travel the country by train but unfortunately there slow and not set up for farangs. Nothing like traveling long distance on a Thai train put it that way.

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## terry57

Front up to the ticket box buy a ticket and sit on ones arse waiting for the train. About every hour they rock in. Cool season is the go as one would melt inside this train in the hot season for sure.

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## terry57

Here comes the Train so jump on with the locals.

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## terry57

Not a bad idea to take a piss or whatever before you get on the Train. No shitters on these ones EH.

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## terry57

Starts off all casual like but dont take long to crank up. The idea of this train is to pick up locals and there produce and drop them at many different stops along the line.Thing is the Train only stops for a few minutes and then its off again even if someone hanging half out with a bag of bananas. Funny as to witness the madness of the short stops.

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## terry57

Train pulled up and the punters are ready for a mad scramble to get there produce on board before the train bolts.

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## terry57

Starting to crank up a bit.

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## terry57

More stuff coming on board.

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## terry57

It actually ends up totally full of punters and there produce.The stops where the highlight.  :Smile:

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## terry57

The school kids squeezed in there somewhere usually under a bunch of Bananas.

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## terry57

I mentioned that there where many new cars on the streets and not many old. I found out where all the old ones where, they where behind this cement fence and it went on for KLM's. Ive never seen anything like this before.

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## terry57

This was nuts. One would of thought all that metal would be recycled and exported or reused.

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## terry57

They just lift them up with this crane and drop them on top. Whats all that about ??

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## ltnt

^Ship them to Japan to recycle them.  Its part of your new Toyota.

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## Mid

^

wot he said .

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## deathstardan

Absolutely top-notch thread there, Terry.

I have sent this link to a mate who travels to Burma next month for the first time.

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## terry57

Ok then,  3 hours on the mad Train is enough so its back pounding the pavement heading back to our guesthouse. Bang down some pineapple for a bit of sustenance.

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## terry57

Its late afternoon now so the street markets are opening up.

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## terry57

I love street markets, always lots of action and things happening.Great way to observe the locals.

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## terry57

Grab a chicken on the way home.

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## terry57

Or a mud crab maybe.

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## terry57

If I had a kitchen I'd be buying a heap of Seafood. Fresh and cheap.

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## terry57

Some nice looking squid there.

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## terry57

Lots of these stalls on the street cooking up offal. The locals love this stuff.

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## terry57

Once the day cools down the street food comes alive all over the flat.

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## terry57

The local taxi stand. The boys waiting for a fare.

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## terry57

Indian Temple jumped out at us.

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## terry57

Don't think this guy would have a problem keeping burglars out.

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## terry57

New condos again, with the loosing up of the economy people are making money and there living standards are improving. In the city anyway but in the country poverty is still the order of the day.

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## terry57

They squeezed this one in.

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## terry57

Sat TV is reality new. This is the great leap forward as the average person can see whats going on outside there country,  in past years they new nothing mainly because of strict Government control over all sorts of Media. Even today the Internet is heavily censored.

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## terry57

The hole in the wall Tailors shop. This shop is famous in Yangon for its quality, I read about it in a few books. Just happen to stagger across it.

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## terry57

In the city center most of the sidewalks are fairly good but you will encounter a booby trap like this. Stuff of nightmares if you happen to end up in one.

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## terry57

Back in the burbs now and the road works go on. Gives someone a job and the end result is brilliant.

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## terry57

Many shops in the burbs specializing in all sorts of goods, this was the pump go to man.Once again incredibly organized.

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## terry57

The guy supplying generators would be minting it. Unreliable Government electricity is fantastic for this businessman.

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## misskit

Those market pics are great. Everything is so clean!

You've got the travel bug biting me. I hope to go to Lake Inle in the next two or three months.

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## terry57

> I hope to go to Lake Inle in the next two or three months.


Inle lake is big on the must see as is the beach resort Approx 5 hours outside Yangon.

We did not get there but I will go back as we received many great reports from fellow travelers.  It will be very hot then, hard going.

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## terry57

Another shop front being renovated.

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## beerlaodrinker

Great stuff i cant wait to hear what you reckon about mandalay and bagan , we never got there but when they start flying from vientiane to yangon its defo on my list

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## terry57

The ladies sit on the side walk and sell plates of food for the pigeons. Anything to make a buck I suppose. Think it has something to do with making good Karma by providing for the birds.

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## terry57

One will see these seed pods hanging about for the finches and assorted birds to munch on.

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## terry57

More of that offal being dished up, this guy has got this to himself.

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## Loy Toy

Great thread Terry.

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## terry57

Mum and dad going hard on the stir fry powered by the wooden stove. Great stuff.

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## Mid

> I love street markets, always lots of action and things happening.Great way to observe the locals.



Any idea what the powder ? is on the street behind the vendors ?

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## terry57

> Great thread Terry.


Thanks LT, that's a compliment coming from you.  Cheers.  Thanks to the others also that are enjoying this thread.

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## terry57

Any idea what the powder ? is on the street behind the vendors ?[/quote]


No idea, didn't even notice it until you mentioned it, so many other things going on its nuts.

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## terry57

Plenty of street cleaners around the joint. They try hard to keep the streets clean.

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## terry57

I like these people, there always cleaning, real good crew the Burmese people are. Trying hard to make the best of what they have. One gets the feeling that there living standards and lives are on the up and up hence why its so important to spend your money with the locals and steer clear of Government institutions like the 5 star hotels.

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## terry57

Alright then its the end of the day and time to Get into the coldies. There are no 7/11's in Burma but there are convenience stores around that stock anything  you could find in Thailand including some powerful beers. I'm off to the pub again, well deserved after a hard day of being a tourist.

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## terry57

Back in the neighborhood pub Ending another great day of plebing around the joint. I'm big on aimless wanderings and tend to end up in some great situations just walking around the place. This guy was the owner of the pub and looked after us real well. Thanks mate.

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## terry57

Another plate of tasty pub food comes rolling out.

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## stuie

This must be one of the best threads ive read on here. The pics are fantastic.

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## terry57

A street vendor rocks up and bangs this down in front of us. Why not, Yes I'll have some of those to help the stout go down.

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## terry57

^^
Thanks. 

I do these picture threads primarily for myself as I will always have a permanent record of my travels. Bit like making a photo album but one don't have to store the bastard thing or worry about it being destroyed in a house fire.

When I'm old and fuked up I'll be able to go into cyber space and check out my traveling life reliving my ball biting trips.  

If other people gain something from my threads and enjoy them all the better.

Cheers.

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## terry57

Ive staggered out of the pub,  crossed the road and into the Indian restaurant for a final feed of delicious Naan bread and Dahl before walking  up the road and crashing out. Tomorrow we are on the plane to Bagan but that's another story.

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## terry57

Had a fantastic sleep last night and I will end this thread where it began, that being in-front of this fantastic local guesthouse " Motherland Inn 2 ". The staff where incredibly friendly and helpful, they organized our plane tickets and gave us a great room at a budget price. Happy Days. Hope you gained something from this thread. My main comment would be that to get around and experience what we experienced one must visit in the cool season so you can hit the streets and keep on walking. It all happens on the streets, get into it. Cheers, Bagan thread coming soon.

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## Davis Knowlton

Great job! I've been to Rangoon, but not to the other stops on your Burma itinerary, so I'm really looking forward to them. Thanks!

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## aging one

*Cant wait to see what comes from Mandalay. What a report, a classic for sure.*

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## gusG

> Or a mud crab maybe.


I just love the way that they look after the fisheries, and catch all the females full of eggs.

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## terry57

Ive just found this pic so better to show it now. Official exchange rates.

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## terry57

In post #129 I quoted 8600 kip to $ 1US. Foked that up as its around 860 innit.

Sorry bout that.   :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

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## danno5

nice thread, thanks!

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## GuttaPercha

Wonderful thread Terry, thanks very much.

No motorbikes! I love the place already.

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## terry57

^

Yes,  having no Motorbikes around Yangon was brilliant, Vietnam drove me nuts with the amount of bikes in the city.

Motor Bikes are allowed throughout the rest of the country though.

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## Phrakhanong

Outstanding trip report!  I was previously 50:50 on whether to visit Myanmar, but this report has definitely convinced me to go visit.

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## pagibaru

Great post . Keep it coming. Been flying over this country for 40 years, swore I would never go while the thugs were running it. Your post has got me totally firred up to finally ddo it. Thanks again.

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## ozthai

Terry thanks for such a great thread. i looked at it from start to finish. have always want to go to as my late father was there in the war and told me many stories and how much he liked and admired the people. This has inspired me even more. Your trip looks like they way I like to travel.

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## Zeisix

This report starts very impressing, thank you. I m just planning my own visit.

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## Bobcock

Hadn't seen this thread before, great stuff Terry.

I've just booked myself 5 days in Yangon in October, might get the camera a service before I go......

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## beerlaodrinker

Will look forward to that bob your photography skills are TD legendary. much appreciated

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## anto2

Great report but i differ to you in saying i found beer about half the price of Thailand in most restaurants and food about a third cheaper and also far larger quantityies .That was when i was there in August this year .

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## terry57

Nice to see this thread has been bumped.  I have the Mandalay section to finish. 

It will happen.

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## Jools

Terry......a GREAT report. Loved the pics. You DO have a way with words.  :Very Happy:  Thanks for sharing, Mate.

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## Ronin

> I had done no research into this trip and left it all up to my friend to sort.


Maybe that is the reason you had such a hard time with your visa, I would have thought that would be one of the first things to look up given the events in the country in the last few years.  However, I do like your pictures and you are providing some useful information.  How Asia is changing.

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## terry57

^

It was my cock up with the Visa, no big deal though, fair play and carry on EH.  :Smile:

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## Bobcock

If you go online and research Myanmar Visa there are tons of scam sites advertising Visa Online and Visa On arrival a semi scam*, there is nowhere to go that gives you proper information..... try it.


*makes you think that it's official whereas they do it for you and you pay way over the odds, same can be found with the USA and Australian travel schemes.....

The best I got was a page for the Myanmar Embassy in Beijing which gave clear details that a visa is required.

Visa On Arrival can be organised with 3 weeks notice through an approved travel agent but there has been no pure VoA since something like October 2010 if the sites are to be believed, which I doubt.

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## Ronin

> , there is nowhere to go that gives you proper information..... try it.


Actually when traveling I always found the Lonely Planet travel guides pretty good at saying where to go for advice (genuine of course).  Although I would hope most people above a certain age to be able to tell the scam websites from the genuine - not that difficult.

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## TonyBKK

> 


I'm only 4 pages in and loving it! ^ Best pic so far!

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## anto2

Yangon is a horrible ,overcrowded shit hole .Be aware of that before you go .It was still interesting to me though as it was somewhere new to explore .

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## terry57

^

I found the complete opposite.  We walked everywhere, talked to the locals, ate in the local restaurants and street markets, done the tourist thing and thoroughly enjoyed the city.  

If you stay in 5 star hotels,  don't bother getting around the city and interacting with the locals one might hold that opinion. 

Lot of shit as far as I'm concerned.  Traveling is all about scratching below the surface and looking beyond a maybe grim exterior.

Yangon was far from grim though.

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## diverken

HI.Does any one know if you can still cross the border at Mae Sot and go into Myawadi on foot for the day?My old Insight Travel guide says you can for a small fee Thought I might as we are up that way next month

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## Yemen

Terry, I think you will enjoy Bagan best. Yangon, Inle Lake, Mandaly all great. Lots of changes from 10 years ago, so good for the Burmese as they are nice people.

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## terry57

^

Burma was a complete surprise to me. I was expecting India but it was light years ahead of that country.

I feel the most important thing is to time your visit with the cool season for a first time visit.

Mandalay in the hot season would be a nightmare and trying to tour the Temples in Bagan would be a non advent.  Too hard department and not enjoyable. 

Ive learn't over my many years of travel that touring a new destination is best done when the weather is friendly.  Makes a huge difference.

Anyway I enjoyed all my 3 destinations in Burma because I go with the flow and take it as it comes. 

The main thing I took away from that trip is that I'm very happy I went at that time as once the Backpackers kick in it will just be over run with Muppets and just become another Laos or Thailand. 

Go this year. Don't piss around.

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## Bobcock

Currently about halfway through my Yangon trip. 

Having a fantastic time, was surprised how backward Myanmar really I, reminds me far more of India 20 years ago than modern day Thailand.

I think I may have taken my best photo yet...... Hard to tell on the small screen.

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## Bobcock

> This is the main tourist draw in Yangon but with an entry fee of $5 US  I had no need to enter.


Hardly..... The Shwedagon Pagoda is the top draw and well worth every cent of the $5 dollars, but it went up to $8 on October first so it's now a huge rip off......5555555

Schwedagon is stunning..... Oh and the Sule (pronounced Soo-Lay) pagoda in the picture is $2

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## terry57

^

Good info Bobby,  I'm trying to get my third installment posted up " Mandalay ".

Must crack on with it now I have the time. 

Burma is good EH.

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## Bobcock

Still here, having a great time, hope to have a thread started by Monday.

Just walked through a pretty dilapidated part of town that really was the India that I visited 25 years ago. In the middle of it we found a bar/restaurant that is just superb and sold me the best fish and chips I have had in 26 years in Asia.

I think I'm templed out now, but I may hit Shwedagon at 0500 tomorrow for some particular shots to finish off what I wanted.

All in all a great long weekend and I need to return to Myanmar at the earliest opportunity.

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## terry57

^

Go back in January Bob, very agreeable weather at this time of the year.  Its high season though so pre booking accommodation is a must.

Burma is lacking in mid range tourist accommodation so in high season rooms are at a premium.

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## Bobcock

Just completed another 4 hour photo session at Shwedagon and it's surrounds.

Awesome at sunrise and packed by 05:30.......

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## terry57

^

God dam stunning place EH.

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## Jofrey

Looking forward to the pics Bob.

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## blue eyes

Great post with the picks and all.If the Thia are going to Burma just what do they use for money?Are they allowed to exchange THB or do they just spend THB in Burma.I really dought that they would exchange THB to US$ in Thailand then exchange that in Burma.Does anyone have an answer to that?The reason I ask is what do I do if all I have is THB and RMB.

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## beerlaodrinker

> Still here, having a great time, hope to have a thread started by Monday.


Looking forward to that , wish terry would get of his arse and post up his mandalay thread as well.

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## terry57

> I really doubt that they would exchange THB to US$ in Thailand then exchange that in Burma.Does anyone have an answer to that?The reason I ask is what do I do if all I have is THB and RMB.



If I remember correctly the currencies accepted in Burma was $AUD, $US, Euro and strangely enough Singapore Dollars. 

I covered this subject on my other Burma thread and took pictures of the Currency board. To answer you're question I'm fairly sure Thai baht is not accepted.

You can change Thai baht to Dollars at the airport before you leave Thailand not a problem. 

Make sure you do this and take plenty off it.    Do not run out.

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## Bobcock

Actually Terry, things are changing fast.

You can travel without dollars now, we ran out of kyat and would have preferred to be using them.

Nowhere we went said it had to be dollars.

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## Bobcock

And yes, easy to buy dollars at the airport. We left via Don Meuang and there were two counters just on the right after you clear the security checks after immigration.

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## Bobcock

I have taken over 2000 shots, going to be quite a task to process them. I reckon some of them are the best shots I've ever taken looking at the small screen. Going to be a long thread.

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## Bobcock

Not quite sure what to do, I've processed 325 pictures and put most of them on my website (some pics are to tell a story and don't go into the serious photography section) but I've got a cant be arsed feeling about uploading them all here, plus I don't know how much space I have left here. DD and I had an arrangement but I don't know if that still stands.....

Unfortunately my site is set up that I can't link to the pics there.......

I was thinking of just giving my site address but to be honest, I think there are a small handfull of people on TD that I'd rather not have that. If you want to see the pics and I know you, you can always ask for the link by PM.....

I think I'll wait a bit to decide how to do this.....

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## Marmite the Dog

Flickr is pretty good for pictures if you have a Yahoo! account.

I like it because I can easily upload from my phone with one tap.

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## manpet

Terry , One of the very best & intresting threads i have seen for a long time , Thank you , a real intresting insight , i would like to go & great advise along with you pictures ,

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