#  >  > Travellers Tales in Thailand and Asia >  >  > Malaysia Forum >  >  Penang

## sabang

We long suffering farangs are resigned to the indignity of renewing our annual Thai 'visitors visa', for it is nothing more than that. Of course part and parcel of this is the quaint Thai habit of making arbitrary, ridiculous and ultimately meaningless rule changes. Thus I found myself stateless, the day before my 5th "O" visa renewal, for the heinous crime of maintaining my primary bank account in Thailand in joint name with my wife- as indeed I have since day one in this Land of Stoopidarsed government. The latest arbitrary rule change had apparently slipped under my radar. 

A quick Savannakhet trip was necessary to get a two month visitors visa sorted, and thus some breathing space to organise a trip to Penang, to coincide with the visit of my oldest acquaintance, being Mum. And re-organise my annual visa. What a circus.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): 

Not that it's a real imposition to get me back to Penang- I have very fond memories of the place, going back to my first visit in 1982.




^ The Mingood hotel, whilst by no means the cheapest available, seemed an Ok deal for 100 ringitt per night- which at the prevailing rate is about 980 bht. It's pretty much how it looks- an aging, slightly threadbare hotel, certainly no four star job- but neither a fleapit. It was fine, as was the location on the edge of the Heritage zone of Georgetown. What really sold me on the place was the fact they have a visa agency located at reception, which got the nod of approval from a fair few web sources. So it proved- I dropped in my passport and application the morning after arrival, and picked up my annual non-Immigrant 0 visa with multiple re-entry visa the following afternoon. For a total fee of 600 ringitt- of which about 550 is the actual visa cost- I'm certainly not complaining. You don't even have to turn up at the Thai Consulate.  :Smile: 
http://www.hotelmingood.com/

Thats the business over with, so lets have a walk around Georgetown.

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## aging one

I also stay at that hotel and recommend it highly.  I just like a few days in Penang. Good food, good sightseeing, and easy.

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## Butterfly

not bad as a backup plan,

visa fee is actually 4,900 THB, isn't it ? I might try the 1yr extension thing this year to see how it goes,

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## sabang

Georgetown has a rich history, plus you can drink the tap water and the buildings do not fall down in a high wind. Obviously an ex-British colony. It's an interesting place to wander around and check out the streetlife, and some nice old architecture in varying states of repair from pristine to derelict. 


Chulia St was a fine old brothel street in it's day, but it is now the main budget travellers area, with cheap hotels, bars, ladyboy streetwalkers, travel agencies and so on. Georgetown is far from gentrified really (all the rich people live elsewhere), in fact I was quite pleased to see it retains a seedy edge, but heres an example of a nicely renovated Villa building, converted to a nice Boutique hotel-




An old Chinese clan house- quite a few of these around.




A reggae bar, how original-




Another clan house-




One side alley specialising in nuts and bolts type stuff, another in dhobi, aka laundry.








Signs various.




Another tatty side alley.

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## Bangyai

> 


I think if they had named it  ' Mingegood '  they might get more customers but then that would have been false advertising I guess.

Nice thread Sabang. If I had the money I'd live in Penang full time. Very nice place.

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## Chili Pepper

Thanks Sabang, I have to do this trip myself next month and you've sold me on the visa service. The room rates on their website seem much higher than 100 ringett though? 

I already did a Penang visa trip about 5 years back, last time I made a mistake to try Vientiane, a nice place for a few days break but the embassy procedure is a fooking joke up there.

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## aging one

Hit Yasmeen Restaurant right on the corner of Penang RD, and the street the Ming Good is on. Killer Tandoor, curries, rendang, an best of all Roti Canai, and long poured tea at about 15 or 20 baht a plate.

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## sabang

Ethnically Georgetown is quite a unique melting pot, you certainly can't miss the Chinese and Indian influence. Campbell St is *very* Chinese, which of course means there must be a wet market. In this case in a nice colonial style which certainly puts Thai wet markets in their rightful place, although the aroma is much the same-



As the aging one has pointed out, Penang is a great place to visit if you like your food.  :Smile:  There are some nice dim sum restaurants along Campbell Street, including one right across the street from the market. I do enjoy dim sum, and we gorged ourselves there. For the farang, there are added benefits we lack and miss in Thailand, such as good cheap Indian and mid eastern food, lamb plentiful and not expensive, and it all washes down very well with the locally brewed Guinness- which, at roughly 9 Rt per small bottle is a lot cheaper than you will find in Thailand. You certainly won't miss pork for a few days.







A bit of art deco too-

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## sabang

I've never seen anything like this.  :Confused: 



Sauntering around an alley off Chulia somewhere in broad daylight, this rat was not the least concerned by my presence. He proceeded into a small courtyard, of what seemed like a derelict house or maybe even a shooting gallery- Penang was once infamous for it's drug scene actually, and there are still some hard core druggies about- including some of the remaining rickshaw pullers, allegedly. 



And he joined his friends. There was another, black cat just to the left of this photo. Truly weird, never seen that before-





Incidentally, would you buy a sign from this guy? 



Didn't think so.  :mid: 


And a bit more Georgetown tattiness.

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## sabang

> Nice thread Sabang. If I had the money I'd live in Penang full time.


Thanks Bangyai- I didn't think it was expensive, and I'm sure the less touristed parts of the Island would be cheaper still. That MM2H deal they've got going is superb- 150k ringgit deposited in an approved bank, interest paying, and you've got a guaranteed ten year multiple re-entry visa to come and go as you want. What are we doing in this lunatic asylum? Oh yeh, the wife of course.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): 



> The room rates on their website seem much higher than 100 ringett though?


Cheers. I rang them up, asked the price, and was quoted 100 with no bargaining. That includes a lousy breakfast of toast, and all the piss weak Nescafe' you can drink- but the roof terrace is nice. Yeh, the visa service is great Chilli.



> Yasmeen Restaurant


Brilliant. Even closer, as you're walking there from the Minge is a place on the right called 'Sup Hameed'. Really liked that one too. Everyone must have Roti Chanai at least once in Penang, but I wager it will be more than once.  :Smile: 
For that matter the nasi lemak place on the corner diagonally opposite the Minger is good too, and cheap. Just pile what you want on your plate from the various dishes on display (Malay & Indian), mine came to 5.50 R.

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## larvidchr

Nice thread Sab. Always liked my stays in Penang, most speak English, very laid back with great restaurants and nice watering holes, good food is cheap but lager beer about twice the price of Thailand in the better bars. Lots of good looking "birds" many mixed race  :Wink:  if you are into bird watching that is. living costs are quite low   certainly comparable with Thailand. And the locals seems generally more pleasant,  genuinely smiling, and more easy going than Thais.

Ohh and as a curiosity compared to Pattaya, apart from the Airport I have hardly ever seen a policeman going about their business in penang, not even around the hotspots at night, yet they all wear helmets on their bikes without exception, and the streets seems quite safe even late night.

I like the place.

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## sabang

Upper Penang Rd is the end that culminates at the venerable old Eastern & Oriental Hotel, one of the grand old dames of the colonial hotel scene. It was built by the Armenian Sarkies brothers, who also built Raffles and the Strand in Rangoon. They still serve a High tea in the grand old tradition, and have a very nice bar called Farqhuars where you can have an expensive beer without resenting the price. If you haven't been there it's worth a visit, and it's still a lot cheaper than Raffles- which as everyone knows is an almighty rip-off these days.




Before you get there, you walk through the trendy nightlife precinct of Penang. We just wandered thru during the day, there are a few decent looking venues like this-



Right next to the E&O, this derelict building awaits sympathetic restoration-



And might end up looking like this one nearby-



Proceeding around from the E&O towards the pier is the Colonial section, with stolid old Brit architecture. Here you will find the Courts, the local government Assembly building, a church, stuff like that. And Swettenham Pier, plus Fort Cornwallis is nearby to protect it all from the restive natives and the nasty Dutch. Having done this all before I wasn't bothered, so we proceeded instead down the aptly named Love Lane back into the tatty parts. Love Lane wasn't so much a brothel street, as a place the colonials kept their dusky mistresses. A small collection of budget hotels along here these days, in fact I reckon this would be my el cheapo street of choice as it's pleasantly laid back and quiet compared to Chulia Street.

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## Bangyai

> And a bit more Georgetown tattiness.


Last time I was in Penang a couple of years ago I also noticed that Georgetown was going to seed and that many buildings were falling into ruin. One evening, I asked the Chinese owner of an internet cafe why this was so ?

His explanation was that a lot of real estate in downtown Georgetown was in the hands of Indians and some Malays. All the colonial buildings were rented by Chinese people on peppercorn rents that had been frozen by the government since the British departed. Once these long term agreements expired the Malay government gave the landlords permision to increase the rents. This was in the mid 1990's and the Indian landlords felt they could create a boom town by redeveloping the whole area. They put the new rents high enough to encourage the Chinese tennants to move out, which they did in droves moving to new villages in the centre of the Island.

Then came the Asian crash and the boom never happened and the Chinese could not be persuaded to move back into town so the empty buildings are slowly crumbling. 

On top of that, he said, came the Tsunami which didn't help the tourist industry plus a change of government that was more strictly muslim in outlook . All these facts combined to put the boot in on Georgetowns recovery, which IMO is great, since its one of the few places where the pace of life has slowed down rather than speeding up. At the time of my visit , brand new beach fron condos were being sold for half price but there were no takers.

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## sabang

I like Penang too larv, heck I could live there real easy. The booze is expensive, but really only about on a par with Bangkok prices these days- and Guinness is a good deal cheaper. Nothing wrong with the local Anchor beer either. Apparently there is a small but growing expat community in Langkawi too, which is a ferry ride from Penang. The booze is cheap there, because it is a duty free island.  :Smile: 

Little India is clustered around Queen St in Georgetown- all of these places are easy walking distance, although you can always get lazy and bargain for a rickshaw. As luck would have it, it was Deepavali.



Quite a few stores around selling stuff, so we did a bit of shopping. Good place to buy Indian sandals and shirts.















You're certainly spoiled for choice in Georgetown if you're the religious type.  :mid: 











We'd eaten heartily and well in Georgetown, walked around a fair bit, and got my visa done hassle free. Three nights was about right, and now it's time to hit the beach amigo.  :bananaman:

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## sabang

> Last time I was in Penang a couple of years ago I also noticed that Georgetown was going to seed and that many buildings were falling into ruin


In fairness, it was also going to seed back in 1982. I was surprised really how little the old part of Georgetown had changed, considering that since then you've had the semiconductor manufacturing sector really take off in Penang, and of course the bridge linking it to the mainland was completed in 1985.

But now it's protected anyway- Unesco World Heritage status was granted in 2006. So you can't just knock down a building and put up a glass tower in the zone, fortunately. I do know some nasty developers tricks, one of which is to leave a 'heritage' building to rot- and thus get it condemned (with a little baksheesh), so that you can knock it down and redevelop. I suspect that will be happening here too- for example that derelict building I took next to the E&O is technically just out of the main Heritage zone. I suspect the owner wants to knock it down and put up an office building, and is playing the waiting game. And another fine old building lost.

The economic hub of Penang has spread towards the airport and towards Gurney Drive really. Gurney has really changed- lots of tall buildings there now.

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## Bower

Interesting thread, thank you.

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## Stinky

Lots of effort put into this thread Sab and it's very much appeciated, excellent photos and excellent thread mate  :Yup:

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## Mid

Penang , ham and bacon in Malaysia ......................

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## dirtydog

Got to admit I wouldn't mind spending a year or 2 in Penang, I would certainly put on a good few kilos, in Thailand i eat at max 2 to 3 times perday, Penang at least 4 times plus snacks, sweets, biscuits, just so much good food there.

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## terry57

Very nice thread, cheers.

I also like Penang and have been there many times. 

Malaysia has many things over Thailand, a few things that spring to mind are locals that actually understand English properly, a reliable police force and banking system that is foreigner friendly, a brilliant retirement plan for foreigners that aren't surviving on the bones of there arse and some fine looking women but not as plentiful as Thailand.

Another good thing is that its not full of farang like Thailand is and this makes for a better relationship with the locals.

Yes, Malaysia is definitely on the cards for retirement.   :Smile:

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## Bangyai

> Another good thing is that its not full of farang like Thailand is and this makes for a better relationship with the locals.
> 
> Yes, Malaysia is definitely on the cards for retirement.


Last visit, hired a Honda wave and went around the island. Batu Feringhi almost deserted . Beautiful road and beaches all the way.

Link to expat forum site to see what we're missing.

http://www.alloexpat.com/malaysia_ex...forum-f28.html

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## NokTang

Thanks for the information and photos. 

I've got to do this in January, if you have time, please advise the following:

From the airport to the hotel, what sort of time and method and cost?

When you drop off your passport, do you need the forms, or do the have them? photos? copies(I assume they can make)

Thanks. Nok

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## aging one

One place I always visit is the waterfall Thitti Karawan its at the top of the mountain after you leave Batu Ferringi and are coming back around the island. Fruit and drink stalls at the top are the only indication of a waterfall. Its cool and refreshing and makes a nice break on the round island tour.

Our family of four had a Proton Savvy for the tour. Small and nice with an ipod adapter built in.

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## sabang

> From the airport to the hotel, what sort of time and method and cost?


Most people get a taxi, it's a coupon system and I think (from leaky memory) the cost was around 40 ringitt, which is not too bad really. Not too great either- but don't bother haggling, it's fixed. It's around 40 minutes to your hotel in Georgetown, depending on traffic. To the main beach area at Batu Ferringhi, the cost is 65 or close.

But Penang has an excellent bus system, called Rapid Transit, and there is a bus that goes from directly in front of the airport terminal to the bus terminal in Georgetown. This cost is two ringgit something, dirt cheap. The terminus is under Komtar- the tall round building that dominates the Georgetown skyline (it's outside the heritage zone). From here, you can catch a cab to your hotel, or quite easily walk it if you're staying in Georgetown (and travelling light). If you're heading to Batu Ferringhi, you just change buses there.

Of course, it you're staying in a 'nice' place, you can get the hotel to do you a limo- it may well be part of the package. Or, if you stay in Victors place in Ferringhi (google), you can organise a transfer with them that is cheaper than the official taxi by a useful amount. Or, if you're the snide type, head up to Arrivals and hop on a taxi that has dropped people off- that'll save you the 'airport fee'. I've never tried this in Penang, and it being well organised Malaysia, maybe you can't do it. But in my experience, you generally can.  :mid: 




> do you need the forms,


They have all of that- but of course you need your supporting documentation, such as fot's- probably thats all that is required actually, but do bring your bank statement or whatever is relevant just in case. What is dispensed with is the ridiculous, petty bullshit that they might lob on you in Thailand, such as a photo of your wife in her underwear or whatever.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): 

In my case, I had gone ahead and opened a single name bank account, but it didn't have the requisite two or three (depending on which bullshit Thai immigration office you're stuck with) months of being deposited- because of course it had recently been transferred from our joint account. In Penang- no problem. In the Land of Stooopidarsed government- major hassle.


We're heading to Batu Ferringhi soon, and we're taking the bus there. But first a quick spiel about Penang, the 'pearl of the Orient'. Some people reading this will already know the place well, others not at all. So this is for the latter.

The old part of Georgetown gives you little clue that Penang is actually a perfectly modern, thriving place. Any place where Intel and the like has big factories does not move to the beat of the jungle drum. It has been on the tourist map forever- I'm talking back to ye olde Colonial days. The main beach resort of Batu Ferringhi has a Hard Rock Hotel & Cafe. Need I say more? OK, it's gotta Holiday Inn too.  :Smile: 

It's not a huge Island- it would probably take 2 or three hours to circle it by car. The east coast free trade zone near the airport is where the factories and a lot of the commerce (and population) is. Quaint Georgetown is it's own fairly unique melting pot, and frankly not very Malay- they prefer to live out in their villages, or 'low rent' apartment buildings. The north coast has the developed beaches, in particular Ferringhi & Tanjong Bungah, and the latter in particular has a lot of upscale, modern condo complexes. Head down the west coast, and you're in a different land- Malay fishing villages, very quiet and pretty. Crowning it all is the mountainous, jungle interior- which is beautiful, still has much wildlife, and is relatively inaccesable.

So there are many Penangs. For most tourist visitors, it's probably Batu Ferringhi- quite a pretty beach, some nice resorts there, even a bit of a backpacking scene left. But for the 'beach purist'- as many westerners are, it is no world class beach resort. I'm personally not one to lie on a beach anyway.

Any first time visitor really should do the funicular railway up to Penang Hill- it's just as good as the Peak tram in HK imo, and it's beautiful up there. If done on a guided tour basis, it is typically combined with Kek lok Si Temple and the snake temple- both worth seeing too. Unfortunately as we speak, the tram is closed- major redevelopment happening, new trams coming, & typically for Malaysia they are gonna put up a flash casino resort. They just love turning nice old colonial Hill stations into bladdy casino's. So it will change, not for the better imo- but the jungle canopy will remain. It's due to re-open next year, I believe that mini buses take you up to Penang Hill currently.

Theres a fair few activities, most any taxi driver wants to be your tour guide and show you around- certainly at a reasonable price compared to the frozen north, though us Thai farangs aren't so easily impressed. It wasn't dubbed 'the Pearl of the Orient' for nothing. Well worth a look, and if you have the time and inclination well worth getting outside of the bog standard Ferringhi/ historic Georgetown tourist shuttle.

Oh, for the real beachy types, hire a boat to take you to Penang National Park- Monkey Beach and a few others are very nice indeed but watch out for the thieving monkeys. It's around the headland from Telok Bahang (next beach on from Ferringhi). For the fishermen- you'll catch fish no problems, the place is teeming with 'em. Loads of boats for hire from the beaches- they'll approach you. But if you can get Morgan- Tamil, old pal of mine, real nice bloke- I'd recommend him. He' was a fisherman, and knows the place like the back of his hand. Ask around on Batu Ferringhi beach, they all know him.

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## sabang

> Yes, Malaysia is definitely on the cards for retirement.


I like day to day life in Thailand, and I have an affection for the people, but the system of governance stinks, as does the bureaucracy. Add to that the rise in the Baht, and objectively Thailand is not the shining retirement choice it once was.

With the excellent MM2H system they have introduced in Malaysia I admit that, viewed objectively, as a retirement destination Malaysia knocks spots off Thailand these days Terry.

How jealous I am- a five year visa, and guaranteed renewability for a further five years from a government you can trust. No re-entry visa's needed when you leave the country you just come and go as you want, no stupid report to your local fukked up immigration office every three months to show proof of existence, no stoopid arbitrary rule changes, no baksheesh. Plus your deposit in a decent (ie not Thai :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): ) Malaysian bank pays a commercial rate of interest- and you can bring your gear (including car) in duty free. You can even open a business there, and actually work in it. What Bliss.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): 

Personally, if this place carries on going to hell in a handbasket I'm quite prepared to up sticks and move to Langkawi- duty free booze & cigs ( :bananaman: ), and for the wifes sake Thailand is just a short ferry ride. It's probably cheaper than Thailand there now too. Hey, no place is perfect- but Malaysia stacks up very well indeed, and is unsurprisingly attracting more retiree's and second homers.

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## dirtydog

My son will be going to college in Narathiwat at the end of next year, Penang would be a pretty good choice for a year or 2 I think. Even as a tourist you get 3 months on arrival, take the car across and do the odd visa run, seems a lot less hassle than Thailand.

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## sabang

> Narathiwat


Penangs a great choice of you like the urban delights- albeit it costs a bit more, Langkawi is beautiful and great if you like things a bit less developed and the duty free drugs, and the east coast of Malaysia if you like pristine beaches, traditional village life and don't miss Gogo's (but Had Yai isn't far :mid: ).

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## dirtydog

This is 35,000baht per month, cheaper than similar in Pattaya I reckon.


* Ferringhi Villas*

Batu Ferringhi.  Penang. Malaysia. Ferringhi Villas is a landed residential development  sited in the natural foliage greenery just 100 yards  walking distance away  from the  beaches.  The 2.5 storey Villas are of  contemporary tropical designs  and are accessible through a private road with 24-hour  security. Incorporating the concept of Orchard Styled Villas and a clubhouse  with amenities, including a swimming pool facilities for leisure and enjoyment.

 2.5-storey villa with land 3,400 sq ft ( build-up 1,800 sq  feet)  id 35071 
 

 

 

 
Orchard Styled Villas - Gated and  guarded with clubhouse pool facilities 
 

 *Ferringhi Villas Resort Home*  Property location  Batu      Ferringhi, Penang Malaysia  Date of completion  April  2007            Type      2.5 storey Villa            Plot size (sq feet)      4,400            Tenure  Freehold  Bedroom  Four bedroom and 3      bathroom  Facilities  24-hour security, gated      community, club facilities, swimming pool & tennis court.  
Rental: RM3,500  / Sale: RM770,000  (id 35071)

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## hazz

I did the penang visa run 6 months ago, went by train and found it very relaxing and cheap trip.

For coffee lovers I would recommend a place called coffee lane on king street in george town. A coffee shop that offers a variety of different coffee beans rather than the usual single bean.

Is it my imagination the food way seemed way better there than in bangkok?

The best bit of the trip was in a local super market, pointing out to the wife all the thai products where are about 30% cheaper in penang than thailand (; one of the many invisible costs of thailand's closed economy.

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## dirtydog

> Is it my imagination the food way seemed way better there than in bangkok?


Nope, not your imagination, just a fact there is a lot more choice of quality foods in Penang which are cheaper than Thailand.

I have been looking at some of the Penang real estate agents websites, 2 to 3 bed 2 bathroom condos and they have loads in the 7,000baht to 10,000baht range, and you know if it's on a real agents site it is most likely over priced, not much in Thailand at those sort of rates unless you want to live in Nakhon Nowhere.

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## sabang

Well before everyone moves to Batu Ferringhi I may as well show you some photos of the place. Unless you like burning money, I'd suggest the bus- they are frequent, cheap, and they run up Chulia St & along Penang Rd in Georgetown- so not far at all from your hotel. Look for the 'Telok Bahang' bus. The ride itself is quite interesting too. Tanjong Bungah now looks like parts of Hong Kong Island- modern, high rise condo's perched on hillsides. Apparently a fair few expats live there, and it has some hotels too. If I could travel back to 1982- when it was a quaint kind of place- I'd buy some land here and be rich.  :Smile: 

In contrast, Batu Ferringhi at first glance hasn't changed so drastically. Basically, more resorts have opened, and the places where the people live have been squeezed further out by the pressure of money. Fortunately there is a small old, tatty village area left by the sea- this of course is where I stayed. No doubt I'm not alone in having a place that was one of my first travel destinations that one retains an affection for. It was here I first got the 'Asian bug' actually, and stayed six weeks in a part of the village that is now the Parkroyal resort. Great memories, and when I look at my life since it had a big influence. Asian food, dusky maidens, hanging out in villages with the locals, even fishing with them, maybe one or two things you can't really talk about in a nice website like this- yeh, I'd say that marked the beginning of the sabang Asian era.

If you're staying in the 'old village', you get off the bus past the Parkroyal, look for this sign-



There is a cluster of small guesthouses there. I wanted to stay at Ali's, mainly because it seems to have been going forever. I could be wrong, but I think it was there in the 80's too. Not that they deserved my biz- I rang their number to make a booking. And rang. And rang- no answer. 'Phone not work' the obese ladybot that runs the place said. I didn't believe her. Some things don't change, such as 'Malay time'.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): 



^ You walk past two of these octagonal houses as you trudge the short distance to the tatty 'old village', although that is largely an honorary term these days because there is very little village left. But there are a few beachside bars and places to eat by the sea there, in fact for that kind of thing i think it is the best hangout in Ferringhi. My mother and stepdad thought so too- they were staying at the Bayview resort at the end of the beach, their second time there, and they didn't even know this area existed. I'd say thats pretty typical. The resort package market in Ferringhi is the big thing now, backpackers largely a quaint memory, probably old farts like me on a nostalgia trip.  :Smile: 

Anyway, what to say about Ali's. It's fine, for 100 R per night you are paying for the location really, just a few steps from the beach- the same kind of place on the other side of the road would cost around half the price. 'Up to you', but worth it to me. It does have a couple of pleasant courtyards where you can sit down and relax. The rooms, while basic, are fine-





I get the idea that Ali's just rolls along on past glories- other places 'try harder'. But that is what i was looking for really. "Trip Advisor" had warned me I would be eaten alive by bedbugs, but strangely I wasn't- methinks some of Ali's newer, more vigorous competitors wish to muscle in on it's action.  :mid: 

The bed was very comfy really. Besides us there was only one other room occupied, so perhaps they should get their phone fixed.

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## Boon Mee

> Last time I was in Penang a couple of years ago I also noticed that Georgetown was going to seed and that many buildings were falling into ruin. One evening, I asked the Chinese owner of an internet cafe why this was so ?


Just returned last week from getting my brand spanking new O visa there and noticed the same thing.  It's been several years since I was down there but the place has definitely gone to seed.  The airport is way too small for the amount of traffic going thru there too.

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## sabang

Ferringhi = farang in the Malay lingo, and the white man has been coming here a long time. In ye olde times, the busy Georgetown colonial would pick up his mistress from nearby Love Lane, and come out here for a weekend of sea air and other wholesome activities. But of course the Arabs have been coming here a lot longer- and in a strange twist of history, they're back with a vengeance. A lot of tourists from the middle east here now, and one of the most visible changes is the proliferation of Arabian and Indian restaurants- where else can you find a place that advertises Arabian food, and pizza? Whilst I'm not necessarily enamoured with the Arabian ladies sartorial elegance, I do like their food. However, if you happen to be an ex-Marine suffering from PTSD, I might perhaps recommend other destinations.  :mid: 

This is the Bayview resort, one of the newer ones perched down the 'far' or Telok Bahang end of the beach-



Travelling up the glass elevator to mums room, I glanced down and saw a middle eastern couple at the travel desk. Fatima lifted her veil to talk to the agent, so I got a glimpse of the forbidden fruit. Man, she was beautiful- sheik Ahmed has done well. Probably his fifth honeymoon too with his fifth bride, lucky sod. They were obviously affluent- but how do I know that? Her chador was made of very nice material indeed, and even had a fashionable side vent- thus showing a glimpse of comely lower leg. Must admit, I felt a bit like a naughty schoolboy.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): 

Right next door is the newest Ferringhi resort, a Hard Rock Hotel-





Stunning. Magnificent. Yawwn.

At the other end of Ferringhi beach, there are two Shangri la's, although they weren't shangs back then. This is the good old Golden Sands, where I used to sneak in and use their swimming pool-



The other shang right next door, the Rasa Sayang, is even nicer. Nice traditional Malay architecture, dread to think what the wood bill was. It was closed for renovation, to reinforce it's status as the nicest place on the beach. They were diligent there- I only got away with swimming in their pool once before being sent on my way.  :rofl: 


Then theres the Lone Pine, the Parkroyal, the Holiday Inn etc. I'm surprised a small backpacking scene survives here really, but pleased about that. You get the picture- this ain't Robinson Crusoe's island.  :Smile: 

I think our local graffiti artist is being a little optimistic here, or perhaps he failed at spelling  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):  -




Anyhow, Solidarity bro.

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## sabang

> I was down there but the place has definitely gone to seed.


Personally, I quite like places a bit on the seedy side booner. Dilapidated colonial grandeur, places like Salvador & Olinda in Brazil, Havana, the parts of Macau that are still tatty and old. They've got character.  :Smile: 

Anyhow, if stainless steel and colored glass is your thing, I suspect you won't make a beeline for old Georgetown.




> The airport is way too small for the amount of traffic going thru there too.


Probably, it was certainly humming with people. Bayan Lepas airport was quite snazzy and new back in the early 80's.

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## sabang

As with any other beach untouched by the hand of man, Ferringhi offers the standard unspoilt beach activities.



Bring a chador that neither shrinks or runs, and you too can participate in unspoilt activities.



Ebony and Ivory. Sorry sir Paul.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): 




It's still a pretty beach really. Come Friday, it gets more busy- I guess they head up from KL or out from urban Penang for the weekend.










And this atrocity, which I nicknamed the Grand Canal, hasn't changed either. It stinks, and the effluent laden water is black.




I certainly wouldn't swim in there, or anywhere close- but the water monitors didn't seem to mind. Sorry, but they were camera shy.  ::chitown:: 

As you can see, there wasn't much in the way of bright sunlight this time of year, but thats fine by me- i've gone native.  :Smile: 








Anyhow, off for a beer brekkie. I'll get this knocked over later.   :Smile:

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## Boon Mee

> The other shang right next door, the* Rasa Sayang,* is even nicer. Nice traditional Malay architecture, dread to think what the wood bill was. It was closed for renovation, to reinforce it's status as the nicest place on the beach. They were diligent there- I only got away with swimming in their pool once before being sent on my way.


That's where I stayed.  A little 'paeng' but worth the extra money to stay at the Rasa Wing.  No renovations going on last week but it did rain the three days I was down there.  Food so=so at their restaurant.

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## sabang

^ Posh bugger.  :Smile: 

Didn't take it long to reopen then- i suppose high season is around the corner.

Heavy rain was forecast when I was there, so I got the clouds but you got the rain! Southern Thailand however got the floods, 'cus they never had things like Brits to organise drainage.  :mid:

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## sabang

Some meals you want to just sit down and eat informally, where the locals eat. We liked this place-




It's on the corner to the 'old village', across from the big sign. Cheap and cheerful, and it appears to be _The_ place in town if you're up early for breakfast- and the coffee is good. The only tourist around besides us was a jogger. Nothing flash of course, but nothing wrong with the food either- I guess thats why it's always busy. Doesn't sell booze though, and closed on Fridays. It was fun watching a troupe of about 20 monkeys making their way across the powerlines, heading back into the jungle-







Thanks to the dense jungle, Penang still has it's fair share of wildlife. On my second trip to Penang in 1984, I was thrilled to see a pangolin- near where the Hard Rock is now, and of course I just had to tell my friends, dumbarse. They captured and ate it- apparently it's meant to make you virile. 

For something more flash, The Ship does a pretty good steak. You can hardly miss it-




Next to that is a flash looking middle eastern restaurant, done in the manner of a row of Arabian tents. I didn't make it there but all along the road you've got restaurants, middle eastern & Indian are particularly common. It may not quite be Georgetown, but Ferringhi is still pretty darn good for nosh. If you're in a resort, I'd just use it for the buffet breakfast. Hotel food is boring and overpriced. Imho.

We all just lurv eating by the sea, and these places sell booze too. There are a couple of nasi lemak type places in the tatty old village, very reasonably priced. They give you a plate of rice, you load what you want onto your plate from the selection of dishes on display. There is always a beef curry- and it's always good, seafood, nice fried chicken, okra, no shortage of food in the Malay style.

But Chinese style seafood, as the sign says? No, didn't see any of that.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): 




But who's complaining.




This of course is why several of the local places are closed Friday. A few "Trip advisor" wimps complained about the sound of the Mosque- but I don't see what all the fuss is about.



I quite liked this quaint Hindu Temple. Ferringhi has long had a Tamil population, traditionally fishermen.





Found a newly opened place that was selling wine very cheap (for Malaysia), and got a bit merry there too. Man can not live on Guinness alone, although when you travel from Thailand to Malaysia it is tempting.

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## sabang

Back in the early 80's, Telok Bahang was a typical, sleepy Malay fishing village, and it still is- hasn't changed much at all to my eye. Not even a paint job. It's just a short but scenic ride from Ferringhi, and on the way you've got an orchid and butterfly farm, for tourists to see nice tropical orchids and butterflies.

We hopped a taxi there, and asked the driver to take us to the 'best place in town', which was closed somewhat to his chagrin. I think I know why. So he took us to another Chinese seafood place that was open- and watched from the corner of my eye. Yep, a little commission money still changed hands. Can't knock the food or the price though- it's on the roundabout as you drive into town. What I did notice was that the seafood in the tank was absurdly overpriced, and of course abalone is always absurdly overpriced- but we passed on both.

Looking across from the restaurant, the sharp eye catches the history of Malaysia-



Abdul's bumiputra shop is closed- he can't be bothered staying open through the heat of the afternoon. Mr Wong right next door is trading merrily away, of course. He never shuts.

A short saunter to the beach. Around the Headland is Penang national peak, with nice beaches you normally have to yourself. The active can walk it, but the average hire a boat-







This ebullient chap virtually insisted I take a photo. Happy to comply, so now you can see a typical nasi lemak on display. Looks pretty good, eh  :Smile: ?



There is a lone Berjaya resort on the right as you roll into town. Exactly why I do not know- I'd be surprised if it breaks even. Telok Bahang is worth it if you just like hanging around in a quiet Malay village- nothing much to see there really, but pleasant enough for lunch and a bit of a poke around, and it's easy to have a chat with the friendly Malay folk, maybe haggle for some fish at the fishing pier. You can also make a day of it and visit the national park, or that butterfy and orchid place.



And that TDer's completes the trip report. I'd have preferred a few more days than the three days we spent in Batu Ferringhi, time to hire a car and get around a bit more. But, as sponsors of the womens boat racing prize, we felt obligated to be there- it's a big weekend in the local village calendar. It was great to see mum & Bob, who were returning from their trip to England, and it saved me a trip to boring old Adelaide to catch up with them. I felt a bit shamefaced in the taxi that took us to the airport, because I had not looked up my good old friend Morgan. Perhaps I can use mum and Bob as an excuse, or perhaps you can never really 'go back'. But I doubt it- he was thrilled to see me when I went for my third trip there around 1997, with my then HK Chinese wife. Neither of us had changed- just got older, married, and had a bit more money. Oh well. Some of the most cherished memories on this mortal coil are the people you meet.

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## Bettyboo

^ thinking of converting, Terrance?

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## sabang

No need- infidels are welcome to eat their yummy food anyway, and I carnt afford five wives.  :Smile: 

But that MM2H ('Malaysian my second Home') deal must have several Thai farangs thinking about becoming ferringhi instead.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

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## Marmite the Dog

> But that MM2H ('Malaysian my second Home') deal must have several Thai farangs thinking about becoming ferringhi instead.


I was thinking about going there anyway. I can work just as easily from there as I can from here, but the Midget doesn't want to go there - probably too embarrassed to move to somewhere close where they're not all retarded. The oldest boy would have problems too, as his English is on par with most Thais.

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## sabang

There were more than a few Thai in Ferringhi actually- Thai food is readily available there, although maybe not Isaan delicacies, and I was quite surprised that there was a Filipina working in the bar across from Ali's too.

Heck, if the junta keeps on going the way it's going we may have little choice. Best to keep an open mind.

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## Bogon

Nice thread so far sabang. Really enjoyed the pics.

Hope this one of the "happy couple" isn't framed somewhere in the house. :Smile: 


Thanks for sharing.....................

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## buycondojomtien

I liked PENANG before but now prefer VIENTIANE in Laos, weed is better and everybody understand Thai !

Good point also in Laos, they have cheap Indian/Malay food, best in the world i my opinion.

:-)

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## dutara

Hello.  I've spent a good deal of time in Georgetown over the past few years, and I'd just like to add my observations and feelings about the place.  Take them as you will, just speaking my mind.


 I like the atmosphere of Georgetown, especially the the area east of Penang Rd and north of Komtar.  This includes the Chulia Street area (no one calls it 'lebuh') and Little India.  I also like walking around at night, and haven't had any problems with this, but then again I'm careful.  Still, in the accumulation of about 30 months that I have stayed there I've only had a few near mishaps.  I'm considered a 'big guy' there, which I'm not, only 5'11 and weigh app. 200 pounds. Once a rikshaw guy was giving me mess, which I let him know I didn't appreciate, and he said he'd slug me if I wasn't such a big guy.  First time I heard this, but other old farts who've I'd had conversations with regarding old age and health have said this too.  Go figure.  But I digress...

 There may be better accommodation for decent prices in the outlying areas, but it would be like living in the suburbs, no where to walk but residential streets, having to take buses at night to go 'downtown,' having to consider the schedules etc.  The Rapid Penang bus system is relatively new, three years old or so, and I think has improved from its growing pains.  Before that the bus system was atrocious, and every time I rode it the person next to me would strike up a conversation about how terrible it is.  Indeed, the local buses even on the east coast of the peninsula were in much better shape.
 On the subject of buses, the bus from the airport is 401A, and will bring you to the jetty, via east end of Chulia Street, near the Indian section. If you want to get off at Chulia street ring the buzzer when you pass the big mosque, the bus will stop around the corner.  If you didn't have to deal with the airport terminal etc a taxi from that part of the island to Chulia would cost app. 25RM.   


 If you're going to KL by bus I recommend taking the ferry to Butterworth (the various spellings you'll see can be funny, my fave is 'Brotherwarts') and just showing up at the terminal and getting the next bus out.  It can take anywhere from 4 to 7 hours, depending on the mood of the driver, whether it breaks down or not, detours the bus makes to cafes where the driver is compensated, weather, etc.  The fare as of a few months ago was app. 31RM.  I don't recommend trying this on holidays and weekends, at which times make your reservation in advance.  Some people swear by Transnational, but I've taken them a few times and didn't see any difference in quality or adherence to schedule.  Those 'agents' on Chulia St will tell you anything, buyer beware.  I once bought a ticket directly to Singapore, and my good friend the ticket seller told me the bus completely bypassed KL.  Well, guess what bus not only went into downtown KL, but for over an hour cruised the streets of the city with a tout leaning out the door calling out to people on the street hey, want to go to Singapore?   
 If going to Thailand the minibus is the way to go, and have your hotel do the booking (they all have the hook-up), this way when you're waiting around the lobby the hotel people will call them to straighten things out.  Also note that throughout Malaysia (and Indonesia, and ) people will constantly be trying to get your ass in a cab so they can get some kickback.  The unfortunate part is that when you really have no alternative to a cab you may think it's just another taxi hustle.  


 Rats: In the West rats are a sign of bad sanitation, in SEA we don't need subtle signs to show us that.  I now see rats as welcome pests, as they eat the garbage etc on the streets.  It's an alternative to disease and other fun stuff that would result from decaying waste.  Just keep them out of my room, please.


 General hygiene and food handling: nasi kandar, with those trays of open food, should be restricted to lunch time, IMO.  When you go looking for food in the evening you may see things that have been sitting there since 11am.  If you know it's a place with fresh food coming out of the kitchen that's another story, and you can usually spot these places easily as they are pretty busy: the locals usually know where the food is fresh, the supply is getting turned over, etc.  Myself, I usually had rice for lunch, and at night I'd have some sort of Indian bread with a dish that was freshly cooked, like tandoori chicken.
 You'll notice in Malaysia there is no shortage of people who can't be bothered covering their mouths when they cough, even when viewing uncovered displays of food.  Contend with this as you will. From what I've seen with many Western tourists this coughing and covering precaution is passe with them as well, just check out all those spittle marks on the screens in the internet places.
 Maybe I'm just squeamish, but I can't bring myself to order food when the person behind the counter is picking their nose.


 Food: I think Penang has the best assortment of Eastern dishes.  Indian dishes of better quality than India, IMO.  Chinese food of any type, but unfortunately many restaurants don't cater to a party of one, except for maybe a plate of noodles, and also these restaurants, even though they will proffer a menu, aren't really about the menu: you have a discussion of what they have that day, how you would like it cooked, what kind of sauce you want, etc.  The best way to eat in these places is to have someone who speaks the language and a party of at least 4.  With a little research you may be able to find restaurants where someone speaks enough English for you to order creatively, but you'll still need some knowledge of the cuisine to know what to order.   
 And then there are the little specialties and treats to be found in back alley stalls and out-of-the-way market areas. I always gain weight when there, even if I sweat gallons per day.
 Some restaurants have slimy tactics for travelers, and not restricted to Westerners.  They'll put stuff on your table, and if you eat it you'll discover, when the bill comes, that it costs extra.  I know of one place with great food, but their tactics I so annoying I haven't eaten their in years.  Actually, one day a few months back I decided to try.  I went to the trays, pointed to a chicken dish and told the fellow I wanted that.  He kept telling me I should get the mutton.  Chicken I told him in Malay.  Mutton he insisted.  I walked out.  Yeah, last time I was in there, after setting me up with a big nasi kandar plate the boss told me my friend, I think you should also have some lamb!    
 Another is where you are brought something other than what you ordered, and, in every case, is more costly.  Tandoori bread is the shoo-in; you order a plain naan, they bring you cheese naan, which is 3x the price.  They know Westerners are an easy touch in this regard, a good bet you'll say aw, it's alright, I'll take it.  Don't get pissed off at the waiter for it, the owners make them to do this.  There's a bunch of other little gotchas they have to get extra $$ out of your pocket, just be careful.

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## Loy Toy

Nice thread mate and my memory of Penang is cloudy as I think I was pissed when I arrived and more pissed when I departed which was over 23 years ago.

Thanks for taking the time to share your adventure with us.  :Smile:

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## Happyman

When I lived in KL I had to do a week or so every 6 weeks to oversee our branch office in Georgetown
Always stopped at the Rasa Sayang at Batu Ferengi as they had the best Japanese restaurant outside of Japan that I ever went to !!!
 :Smile: 
This was 10 years ago so maybe it is no longer there .

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## ShilohJim

Greens to you Sabang for a very nicely done report. Very interesting sights and touristy doings, in a non touristy way. The feedbacks were all interesting as well, no flaming of your choices, a pleasant change from some trip threads.

Shilih Jim

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## sabang

Been off line for a coupla days- thanks for the feedback fella's. 

Dutara, you seem to know the place well, good of you to respond. During my brief visit I encountered no problems either on the ripoff or delhi belly front. And Happyman, if I leak that information about the Japanese restaurant to the wife, she'll have me on a plane tomorrow- she loves Jap food.  :Smile:

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## Pol the Pot

Thank you muchly. Now I now why I couldn't find any of your posts in the last couple of days.

Very nice reminder of Penang (though I'm much more a KL fan).

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## sagegong

> I liked PENANG before but now prefer VIENTIANE in Laos, weed is better and everybody understand Thai !
> 
> Good point also in Laos, they have cheap Indian/Malay food, best in the world i my opinion.
> 
> :-)


If you like Indian food, when in Vientiane go to Nazim on the esplanade, good and cheep food.

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## Vientianeboy

> Originally Posted by buycondojomtien
> 
> 
> I liked PENANG before but now prefer VIENTIANE in Laos, weed is better and everybody understand Thai !
> 
> Good point also in Laos, they have cheap Indian/Malay food, best in the world i my opinion.
> 
> :-)
> 
> ...


No! If you like Indian food in Vientiane, go to Rashmis; it is the best Indian by far.

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