#  >  > Living And Legal Affairs In Thailand >  >  > Construction in Thailand >  >  Snowbird house build in LOS

## dennis4558

It's finally started, down payment paid. :bananaman:

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## NamPikToot

Congrats to you and Mrs Dennis  :Smile:  just make sure you are on site.

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## David48atTD

Is there a link to a previous thread you started on your build?

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## dennis4558

> Congrats to you and Mrs Dennis  just make sure you are on site.


Thanks NPT, sad thing is we won't be on site until January, but do have her daughter and sister living a block away and a nephew ( building engineer in BKK ) that will check after each stage.

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## dennis4558

> Is there a link to a previous thread you started on your build?


Don't have previous thread on build, only talked about it on my Promaster Build Thread.

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## NamPikToot

> Thanks NPT, sad thing is we won't be on site until January, but do have her daughter and sister living a block away and a nephew ( building engineer in BKK ) that will check after each stage.


Dennis, you know what goes on - just make sure if it goes south you don't get into a shitfest family wise - you know already - what you get is what you get  - you ain't there, you accept the consequences. - good man

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## dennis4558

NPT,

If it was only the sister I would be a bit concerned but the daughter is very particular about everything, I just need to inform her on what to watch out for. The sister and sometimes the daughter will be living there and us 5 to 6 months of the year. The daughter has lived in the states a couple times so she likes the western standards of building.

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## Norton

> It's finally started, down payment paid.


A winter home in the LoS. Good stuff. Looking forward to show and tell as it progresses.

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## Neverna

Is a "snowbird house" a particular style of house?

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## Stumpy

Congrats on start.  

We had our house built while we were in the states.  My FIL was on site and did a great job.  IMHO, if you have found and hired a reputable general contractor it should go well.  We had weekly calls with him and he sent lots of pictures and Videos through Line. My FIL did the same.  We also paid in 5 segments to keep it on the up and up.  My wife flew back for 3 of the installment payments to check progress. 

We look forward to the updates.  Do you have an architecture rendering of your place?

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## dennis4558

> A winter home in the LoS. Good stuff. Looking forward to show and tell as it progresses.


Hi Norton, I'll try and give it my best shot, a lot will depend on the quantity and quality of picture that get sent to me. and I'll check in with you when we get there in Jan. and give you a tour.

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## dennis4558

> We look forward to the updates. Do you have an architecture rendering of your place?


Yes JPPR2 we did, then had her nephew look at the plans and give us ideas for cost cutting and things we wanted to have.

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## dennis4558

> Is a "snowbird house" a particular style of house?


 :Smile: 

Hi Neverna, maybe I need to explain ( snowbird ). That's what we call people that live in northern states where the winters are cold with snow that move to southern states or other locations that are warm for the winters.

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## dennis4558

I know everyone likes pictures, so here are a few teasers



Looking in at the lot from the road, it's a narrow lot 10M X 90M



Another shot a little more to the left. There's another lot to the left of ours that we tried to buy but every time we talked to them the price went up, we'll leave our offer open if they ever agree to our price.



Here's a better shot of the house on the lot beside ours, not much to look at the wood roof is about to fall in because of termite damage.

Right after we bought the lot we had about 50 cm fill added so that puts us quite a bit above every thing else around us.

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## Neverna

> Hi Neverna, maybe I need to explain ( snowbird ). That's what we call people that live in northern states where the winters are cold with snow that move to southern states or other locations that are warm for the winters.


Thanks Dennis.

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## Thai Dhupp

Best of luck with it, *Dennis*.

Lol... i was beginning to think all the builders had left Thailand after me 'n' *BiP* completed our various builds.

Looking forward to reading a new tale unfolding...bring it on!!

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## BoganInParasite

Echoing best wishes too Dennis. TD, you and PJ any closer to coming up our way one day? Regards, -BiP




> Best of luck with it, *Dennis*.
> 
> Lol... i was beginning to think all the builders had left Thailand after me 'n' *BiP* completed our various builds.
> 
> Looking forward to reading a new tale unfolding...bring it on!!

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## Thai Dhupp

> Echoing best wishes too Dennis. TD, you and PJ any closer to coming up our way one day? Regards, -BiP


Its in the plan *BiP* , don't worry!! lol first I have to give up working in the sandpit and actually move into *TD Towers*.

I am actually back there next week but we have my son visiting (our 1st official visitor) though it will be a bit like 'camping with a concrete roof' as there is not much furniture in the place. 

He is however bringing me a biscuit jointer and a pocket hole jig from UK (both of which I simply could not find in Thailand (or Dubai) at the last time of looking). then I can make a start on the kitchen and we can have two active build threads again - me 'n' Dennis, here! 'Scuse hi-jacking your thread, *Dennis*...

(and I just know someone is going to tell me where both are available in LoS!!!)

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## dennis4558

> Looking forward to reading a new tale unfolding...bring it on!!


Hi TD,
 Thanks for stopping by, I doubt we'll make famous thread status like yours but we will try to entertain as best we can.

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## dennis4558

> 'Scuse hi-jacking your thread, Dennis...


No problem TD, I may have to source me a supply for 220v power tools also, because our tools here are all 110v. I plan on having a shop that I can play in so definitely will need power tools some that can not be found there. I already purchased a set of Rigid cordless tools that I will take there, I can use a converter for charging.

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## dennis4558

> Echoing best wishes too Dennis. TD, you and PJ any closer to coming up our way one day? Regards, -BiP


Thanks BIP, 
Kind of doubt we'll have any time this year with the build going on, but the following year will definitely be an option if the offer is still open.

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## Stumpy

> There's another lot to the left of ours that we tried to buy but every time we talked to them the price went up, we'll leave our offer open if they ever agree to our price.


We did the same thing. There was a huge lot next to ours and we bought it. Wife went and saw them without them knowing she was married to a foreigner. 

That said, Hold your price. they will come around.

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## Thai Dhupp

> No problem TD, I may have to source me a supply for 220v power tools also, because our tools here are all 110v. I plan on having a shop that I can play in so definitely will need power tools some that can not be found there. I already purchased a set of Rigid cordless tools that I will take there, I can use a converter for charging.


Hi *Dennis*, you could always get a step-down transformer for your 110v kit...

Co-incidentally, I am meeting the *DeWalt* account manager in about 10 minutes with a view to 'acquiring' a few 18v cordless items at a ...err...'discount'. Hammer drill, drill driver, circular saw and jig saw on the list at the moment... hope i don't go over my *weight allowance* for the plane....

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## dennis4558

> Hi *Dennis*, you could always get a step-down transformer for your 110v kit...
> 
> Co-incidentally, I am meeting the *DeWalt* account manager in about 10 minutes with a view to 'acquiring' a few 18v cordless items at a ...err...'discount'. Hammer drill, drill driver, circular saw and jig saw on the list at the moment... hope i don't go over my *weight allowance* for the plane....


TD, 
I guess that's what I meant by converter, I've seen 2000 watt for $30 on ebay which is cheap enough, just have to watch who uses your stuff so they don't plug into wrong voltage.

The only thing I would add to your cordless set is a side grinder, something I use all the time. I just recently had to buy a cordless jig saw, my corded one bit the dust, I just love it being cordless now a lot handier then having to drag a cord around.

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## dennis4558

> That said, Hold your price. they will come around.


I think they're coming around already, they offered the  old house for us to use for construction workers no charge. I think they're getting worried because we're starting to build and haven't  offered them more.

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## BoganInParasite

Most TD folks are welcome dennis...there are a few exceptions. Regards, -BiP



> Thanks BIP, 
> Kind of doubt we'll have any time this year with the build going on, but the following year will definitely be an option if the offer is still open.

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## dennis4558

I found some old pictures of the lot and lot getting fill dirt.



Lot before fill dirt.



North side of lot looking toward street.



North side look toward rear of lot.



Not sure if this was all of the loads before leveling.



South side of lot looking toward the street, hard to see the amount of fill, no good shot of the south side.



SIL on fill.



Property marker lower right of picture on north side by street.



Local mutt guarding our lot, I suppose I'll get a bill for that.

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## dennis4558

Temporary construction electricity hooked up.  :bananaman: 

Still waiting on water, they are supposed to be there some time this week, maybe that won't be to big of a deal since we will be using the old house which should have lines to it already.

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## dennis4558

I see it didn't load some of my pictures, I'll try it again.

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## dennis4558

Not sure if all the loads before leveling.



South side back of old house, don't have any good pictures of south side of fill.

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## dennis4558

SIL checking out fill.



Property marker north side by street.



Local mutt guarding our lot, I suppose I'll get a bill for that.  :Smile:

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## dennis4558

They also installed storm sewer since we were there last year, they had started busting up the street while we were there.



This is the street that goes by our lot, looking this direction it ends at a street that goes into downtown RoiEt.



This is looking the opposite way going past our lot, our lot being on the left.

They've had flooding problems in this area in the past, our lot was higher than most of the area around, even before the fill.

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## dennis4558

This is the way you unload culverts in Thailand just roll them off and hope they stop someplace.

 

View of culverts being buried, this is on the road into RoiEt.



Didn't get any pictures of pipe being laid but looks like we have drain right in front of lot.



Concrete poured, street back to normal.

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## dennis4558

The crew has arrived.



The Hilton has been built, they just put up a shelter at the front of the old house, I guess the old house leaks too much.

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## dennis4558

Appears they had to get water from across the street, not sure what the scope is on that, will have to find out. Just checked with the boss, the water from across the street is from neighbor, water crew was supposed to have showed up last week but still no hide or hair seen of them yet.

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## dennis4558

Material arriving on site. 







They're starting on the fence first so I'm assuming that's what the rebar is for.



I'm guessing rebar for the post footing, if I'm wrong on my guess's please feel free to correct me.

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## dennis4558

Progress is being made footing rebar pile is getting bigger.





Possible issue came up, foreman thinks there isn't enough fill dirt where fence will be, I brought this up last year after fill dirt was leveled but was out voted, now if we have to add dirt I can say "I told you so". they're going to wait until footings are dug to see if any will be needed. They need enough dirt to pour the lower beams between poles. I think It's been a little slow going because of the rain.  I guess Norton could fill us in on the weather situation there he's only a few kilometers away.

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## ootai

Dennis
Back in post #33 you said  "Didn't get any pictures of pipe being laid but looks like we have drain right in front of lot."


Unfortunately I don't think what you see in this picture is a drain hole it is an inspection hole. So the water from your block will need to run somewhere until it finds the drain hole. Hopefully not too far away.
Maybe you could speak to your builder and get him to install a drain from the edge of your block connecting into the storm drain at the inspection hole shouldn't be too hard to do.

Also as for putting in enough fill to fill level all the way to the edge of your block would have meant that the fill would slope from your land down and into the neighbouring land. In my experience Thai's won't normally do that as it seems it is taboo to even touch anything on the neighbours land. Had a neighbour at one of the wife's block do what you are suggesting and she wanted to shoot him, told him the clean "his" fill off her land. So to do what you are suggesting you would need to build a retaining wall first. Get the builder to build a solid base along the boundary on which he can then build your wall, Later you can get a bit of extra fill and push it out to the boundary where it will be restrained by the base of the wall (hopefully you can make sense of what I am trying to say).

Good luck with the build.

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## dennis4558

> inspection hole.


Hi Ootai, I think you're right, I remember when I was there last Oct. where this new line ties into storm sewer on main road going into RoiEt they were working on same line and installing drains closer to the homes at the curb of street, I'm guessing they are not finished on this part of the install yet, hopefully within the next couple of years they will make it past our house to install drains lol.  I was hoping wife's daughter would have gotten pictures of them installing the pipe and would have seen how that would be happening. It's been harder than pulling teeth to get her daughter to take pictures.

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## dennis4558

Stakes in for position of post footings.







I noticed some stakes where I didn't think they should be, there shouldn't be anything in the last 30 meters to the rear of lot and these looked closer than that.



The daughter is checking it out as I'm posting this, should know tomorrow what the story is.

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## dennis4558

Architectural concept pictures. 



View from north side, street on the left.



View from south street side.



View from south rear side.

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## Norton

> I noticed some stakes where I didn't think they should be, there shouldn't be anything in the last 30 meters to the rear of lot and these looked closer than that


Appears might be for the small building at rear of house but hard to determine where your property line is.

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## See Will

nice post.. Always interested in building Contryside Projects.. [LIKE]

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## dennis4558

> small building at rear of house


Got it sorted out Norton, they were going by the original print which had the small building close to the back of the lot. It's going to be 2.5 meters behind the house.

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## dennis4558

> nice post.. Always interested in building Contryside Projects.. [LIKE]


Thanks SW, so far it's been fun, no problems we haven't been able to solve.

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## dennis4558

Here's a little better view of how water was brought across from the neighbor.

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## dennis4558

Pilings being delivered to site.





Pilings being unload close to where they will be driven in.





Nephew (engineer) wanted pictures of stamps on poles, if I remember wifes translation it had something to do with 
specs  and warranty.

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## dennis4558

One day later piling truck arrives. (Don't know why it's rotating my pictures.)



Lining up.



Lifting first piling up.













Piling driven down, rotation may be because of way picture was taken, they're straight in my computer. If anyone knows why it's rotating or how to rotate pictures let me know.



Specs on how piling were to be installed, nephew sent to Builder, name is A

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## mikenot

Do you know if the neighbors’s houses are built on piles ? I am thinking you may not be very popular driving piles into the ground so close to other peoples houses if it is not usually required in that area. Don’t be surprised if people come around with damage claims for cracked walls etc .....even if they have been like that for 5 years !

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## dennis4558

Things are moving fast, footing dug around pilings.







On this photo you can see blocks and material have arrived for wall.







Pilings prepared for footing pour. 



Footing holes for small building or the start of graves for anyone that doesn't work fast enough.

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## dennis4558

> Do you know if the neighbors’s houses are built on piles ? I am thinking you may not be very popular driving piles into the ground so close to other peoples houses if it is not usually required in that area. Don’t be surprised if people come around with damage claims for cracked walls etc .....even if they have been like that for 5 years !


HI Mike,
Nothing to the north, empty lot, old house to the south be very hard to damage it anymore than it is, hasn't been lived in for many years, only thing would be houses across the street and there house is set back quite a ways. If there was a problem I'm thinking that would be a building contractors problem.

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## dennis4558

I'm thinking the next pictures should be steel going up. I think the special ceremony is scheduled for sometime this week.

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## dennis4558

> 30 meters


Norton, 
My figures were wrong here, it should be 7 to 8 meters to the rear of property where nothing should be built. The lot is only 42 meters long.

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## NamPikToot

Great to have a new build thread Denis - looking forward to it.

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## dennis4558

> Great to have a new build thread Denis - looking forward to it.


Thanks NPT for checking it out, I'm not much of an orator but I'll try to keep the pictures coming.

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## David48atTD

Same here Dennis.  Great to see a good build thread.

Even the old-timers, well, me anyway  :Smile:  learn from watching other people build.

Looking at the problems encountered and how those issues were resolved or ignored!

Good luck with it all and remember, too many photos and stories are never enough.

Plus a few you tubes are also fun.

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## dennis4558

Thanks for stopping by David, and we'll try to entertain.

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## dennis4558

Getting footings ready for the pour.




Footing ready, sand filled to proper height

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## Neverna

Wow. That looks like it's going to be huge.

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## dennis4558

> Wow. That looks like it's going to be huge.


Hi Neverna, Not too big 90 sq meters per floor with an outside Thai kitchen and front overhang for car and socializing, also adding a small building in back for water tank, pump and tool storage.

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## Neverna

> Hi Neverna, Not too big 90 sq meters per floor with an outside Thai kitchen and front overhang for car and socializing, also adding a small building in back for water tank, pump and tool storage.


Thanks, Dennis. I was thinking the footing looks huge, going by the size of the hole with the man in it. But perhaps that's not big for a footing. I don't know much about these things. 




> Getting footings ready for the pour.
> 
> 
> 
> Footing ready, sand filled to proper height

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## dennis4558

> I was thinking the footing looks huge, going by the size of the hole with the man in it


Hi Neverna, It may have something to do with because it's a 2 story house, but like you I don't know the spec's for footings in Thailand, I just let that to nephew to oversee and make sure every thing is done right. Just by conversations on Line that my wife translates for me he seems to be asking a lot of questions and wanting pictures of everything so I'm thinking that's a good thing.  :Smile:

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## dennis4558

Looks like scaffolding has arrived, lower right. 



Appears foots have received about 2" of concrete before actual footing gets poured.





Looks like the 2 graves have been capped off, better take a head count.



By the looks of these footing we may be a little short of fill.

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## dennis4558

Rebar ready to be set in. Oldest SIL she lives in Surin, I'm not sure if that's far enough away. 





Base rebar in place ready for upright rebar for poles, looks like worker has fully approved OSHA work gear on.



Another location ready, daughter is getting better at taking pictures, I'm having a better selection to choose from.
Next set of pictures will be of building ceremony, it's taking place as I post these pics.

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## David48atTD

> Oldest SIL she lives in Surin, I'm not sure if that's far enough away.


  :smiley laughing:  




> ... looks like worker has fully approved OSHA work gear on.


Yep ... Hi-vis foot wear !

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## dennis4558

Here goes pictures of the ceremony, I don't know much about it so pictures will have to be self explanatory.



Daughter behind table.









I asked why two poles, reply (that's our custom). Other builds I thought I only seen one pole.


Food and drinks at sisters house about 1 1/2 block away, on us, $300 it could have been worse, daughter shut the whiskey off at 4 pm, ceremony started at 9 am so I think they had enough to drink in that amount of time.

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## naptownmike

Cool pictures. Good luck with your project.

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## dennis4558

Requested and got a better picture of scaffolding pile.

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## dennis4558

> Cool pictures. Good luck with your project.


Thanks Naptownmike, A little choke dee is good to have.  :Smile:

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## dennis4558

We're out of the ground, steel is going into the air.





I was wrong about materials before (block, gravel and sand) I thought it was for wall, but I think it was for footings, I guess the wall is on the back burner for now, no one tells me anything unless I ask.



They've been getting rain so work was delayed a day, and I see water in the forms, I wonder if they will clean that out or just pour the concrete in, doubt if I'll ever know.
I asked for an overview of the lot from the street so I'll post that when I get it.

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## fishlocker

"I asked why two poles, reply (that's our custom). Other builds I thought I only seen one pole."

I was the only pole at our place. Well actually I'm part German.



Just kidding,  nice thread. Good luck with the build. The footings look solid so you'll have a good foundation and that's a great start.

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## dennis4558

Thanks for stopping by Fishlocker, I agree with you on the footing, good start for the house.

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## dennis4558

They're still moving ahead rain or shine.



Street view of the lot, cement truck tracks, surprised with all the rain he could still get in and out.



Another rotated photo, hope you guys aren't getting stiff necks looking at these rotated photos.







Footings are poured, what's next lower beams?

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## dennis4558

Base for wall beams are poured, at least the front part of house, can't see back of house, requested another picture.



Also extra dirt has been removed and put where fence will be, daughter thinks we will still be short fill dirt for fence. (my time to say "I told you so")



I have a question about this picture. That should be the front footing for car canopy, why the concrete between house and footing. May have an answer tomorrow.

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## dennis4558

Still moving along rains not stopping them.





Rebar for floor beams in place.



Next step framing out for pouring.



We still have problem with car port, they have it same level as house floor, it's supposed to be stepped down. Wife, nephew and builder were discussing it all morning, wife had to go to work so I should find out tonight what the verdict is.

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## Mozzbie47

Did you dig out the wall foundations or just lay concrete on top of the soil.

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## ootai

Dennis
I think you think too much. I have just had another look at the rendering you showed in Post#41 and the differnece between the 2 floor levels is not very much and I think if you zoom in on the final picture in post#75 you will see there is a difference in the "beam levels.
I have tried to show it in the picture below.  
Also remember that when they tile floors here they don't lay it on the floor slab exactly, in my place they put down 2 to 3 inches of cement and then the tile on top of that. So there is plenty of scope to create a floor level difference.
I think (too much) but it appears that you will require a pretty thick driveway to get up to the floor level of the car port. In the rendering I only see steps as if it is going to be a porch not a carport.
Keep the pictures coming.

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## mikenot

> Did you dig out the wall foundations or just lay concrete on top of the soil.


I think that what you are seeing is not the actual foundations but just a non-structural blind layer. They would have scraped out a shallow trench then poured and leveled the concrete you are seeing. This will then be the base on which they pour the actual foundation beams, its just to keep the soil and concrete apart, keeping the water in the concrete mix where it should be and not draining into the soil thus weakening the concrete.
 They could have used black plastic sheeting....or they could have been really lazy and just formed the beams right on top of the soil. So doing this is a good sign !

PS. I think Ootai right about the levels too.

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## dennis4558

> Did you dig out the wall foundations or just lay concrete on top of the soil.


Hi Mozzbie, If I understand what you're asking, what they did is level the dirt between posts then poured about 2" concrete for base, the wall beams are then formed on top of that.

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## dennis4558

This is a picture of the drawing that nephew and builder are discussing. I'm not good at structual drawings so correct me if I'm wrong. I see 0.00 at street level then there is slope with 0.15 my guess would be 15 cm higher than street, 0.30 or 30 cm which would be step up to house level.

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## dennis4558

> I think you think too much


Hi Ootai, You may be right but with only pictures to go by and language barrier I have to over think this and hopefully catch any mistakes before there're to late. If you look at print above I think what you see in picture on post #75 is wrong, that support beam should be 30 cm below other beam of house.

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## dennis4558

> I think that what you are seeing is not the actual foundations but just a non-structural “blind” layer. They would have scraped out a shallow trench then poured and leveled the concrete you are seeing. This will then be the base on which they pour the actual foundation beams, it’s just to keep the soil and concrete apart, keeping the water in the concrete mix where it should be and not draining into the soil thus weakening the concrete.
>  They could have used black plastic sheeting....or they could have been really lazy and just formed the beams right on top of the soil. So doing this is a good sign !
> 
> PS. I think Ootai right about the levels too.


Thanks Mike, I like your explanation, but at this point I'm going to have to argue the level differences.

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## dennis4558

The area in front of the house to the street is for car part and patio, I know there is any where from 50 to 80 cm of fill dirt, the wall beam rebar forms must be 30 to 40 cm so that puts us at 80 cm from house floor level to street, with a 15 cm drop from house to street in 9 meters, that is workable for a patio any more would be too much of a slope IMO. I'm interested in what you guys think.
The beams from house to front post need to be under finished concrete for patio or car park.

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## ootai

Dennis
Looking at the drawing in Post#80 the way I interpret the levels is 0.00 is the level of the front on the carport floor, it may well be street level but that is irrelevant as the ground can be sloped to meet nicely at the street and the front of the carport.
The carport floor then slopes up 0.15cm (I am assuming they are cm's) so that would give a slope of 1:40 on the carport floor. This is quite steep as water will flow at a slope of 1:100 but not really a concern.

Then on the right side (looking from the street) there appears to be 2 steps each 0.15 high with the entrance at a level of 0.45 so 0.30 above the carport floor. Then there is another rise of 0.15 to the final house floor which is at 0.60cm above the carport floor.

So I agree with you that it doesn't look right at this point but it may mean that they intend to place a lot of concrete to meet the required levels.

The other explanation could be that the builder has looked at the rendering as I did and proceeded to put the beams where he thinks they go.

Given all that all that would need to be done is to lower the 2 beams either side of the carport. But that would only be possible if as you have done is to flag the concern early.

Do you have an elevation drawing to go with the plan drawing you posted?

Let us know what happens and I hope it all goes well. It nearly did my head in during our build and I was there after the first few weeks.
As an example when they were building the steps they were only going to make the tread 150mm wide which meant I would have had room for my toes so I made them make the tread 300mm wide so I could put my foot on the step/s.

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## dennis4558

> Do you have an elevation drawing to go with the plan drawing you posted?


Ootai, No I don't have updated elevation plans, the updated plans were done by nephew and I don't have a copy. We worked off originals and told him changes we wanted which he made and sent to builder.

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## dennis4558

Right now they have flooding going on in RoiEt, our property is high enough but very wet with all the rain. We're still waiting to hear from the builder.

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## dennis4558

> As an example when they were building the steps they were only going to make the tread 150mm wide which meant I would have had room for my toes so I made them make the tread 300mm wide so I could put my foot on the step/s.


Good point Ootai,
I checked our plan, steps are at 28 cm, 30 would have been better but I think I can live with that, maybe if we put a wood step tread on I can increase it to 30 which will make going down the stairs much safer.

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## naptownmike

Looking good. Bit of a mud bog though must be tough to work in there.

Nothing like trying to organize your project while out of town. We did it last year it was always exciting to see the pictures sent to us. 

Unless it was of something done wrong. Luckily it can always be redone most of the time anyway.

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## mikenot

^ Almost correct Dennis, judging by the two pillars on the plan the 0.00 datum is atthe front of your carport, which is not necessarily the same as street level. It’s probably best if it is well above actual street level in case they ever have to resurface and raise the road level. Then the carport goes up 15cm to the base of the house and first step. Then the steps rise in 15cm increments up to the internal floor level of +0.60 (60cm).

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## Mozzbie47

> Hi Mozzbie, If I understand what you're asking, what they did is level the dirt between posts then poured about 2" concrete for base, the wall beams are then formed on top of that.


  Dennis, OK understand that now.  Some 5 years ago I was involved in the build of 8 two story units, the faults were plenty, A bigish one was the stairs that go to the second floor, the opening was incorrect, using these stairs you had to duck your head and im'e not tall,  Just one FU of many, they wouldn't listen to me tho, im'e just a dumb ass western person.  What I am saying Dennis is keep a very close eye on the build.  Hey, what about this one, when they set out the foundations, it over lapped the neighbours block of land  by some 40 centimeters, this again was under the watchfull eye of the site manager, bloody joke, impossible to fix, no doubt the land owner would have been compensated with substantial baht.

----------


## dennis4558

> Looking good. Bit of a mud bog though must be tough to work in there.
> 
> Nothing like trying to organize your project while out of town. We did it last year it was always exciting to see the pictures sent to us. 
> 
> Unless it was of something done wrong. Luckily it can always be redone most of the time anyway.


Hi NTM, Thanks for stopping by and commenting, It is a mud bog and I wouldn't want to be working in that, I'm guessing a lot of the work when muddy is done in bare feet.

Trying to watch the project through pictures is frustrating, you're not the one pointing the camera so don't always get the angle you want, and the photographer is a bit lazy (daughter) so it may take a few tries to get the picture you want. She told me she don't want to get muddy. I told her to take her shoes off and wash them later, that didn't go over very good. 

So far nothing wrong that couldn't be changed.

----------


## dennis4558

Hi Mikenot,

You're right on what the print shows but that's not what I was seeing in picture on post #75, they were laying out a beam between house and car port post.

We talked with builder today and got it straightened out, I think he thought we didn't see what was going on until I sent him picture, he then laughed and said it was a mistake. There wasn't suppose to be concrete of rebar set up for a beam, I'm sure the next picture I see of that it will be removed. He said there should be about a 30 cm drop from car port concrete to street and they will make sure it will not be to steep. 

Later we talked to nephew (engineer) and he also confirmed that, if necessary they would knock out car port post forms and make them lower.

----------


## dennis4558

Hi Mozzbie,
We'll try to keep an eye on it and hope nothing slips by that can't be fixed.

----------


## dennis4558

One other thing that wasn't like we asked was the level of the Thai (outdoor) kitchen, I'm not sure but I think they had it drop 15 cm below inside floor level and we had wanted it the same level. I figured it would be a safety hazard going between kitchens and having to step down or up. He tried to talk the wife into leaving it with a drop saying it would be easier to clean.  :Confused:  I didn't figure out that reasoning. It should be an easy fix, just raise the height of the beam form, just a little more concrete but I think the easiest solution. I don't have pictures of that area yet so hope to have before and after pictures.

----------


## Mozzbie47

> Good point Ootai,
> I checked our plan, steps are at 28 cm, 30 would have been better but I think I can live with that, maybe if we put a wood step tread on I can increase it to 30 which will make going down the stairs much safer.


  Yes another good point, Thai's are keen to make steps that you use sideways. why I dont know, I do know when you mention it they take no notice whats soever.  I do envy you tho Dennis, it is what I always wanted to do.

----------


## dennis4558

> steps that you use sideways


You're right there Mozzbie, I don't need to be going down steps sideways with my 12"ers

----------


## dennis4558

A little update, I got pictures of the outside kitchen, it's a 30 cm drop, that's 2 steps, I'm sure if it is left that way I would be missing 1 of the steps sooner or later.



As you can see rebar is partially buried in dirt so would have to dig it out anyway, my guess is they take it out and fill with dirt, any wagers.

----------


## Norton

> Right now they have flooding going on in RoiEt


We certainly do. Stopped now.
Are you in Roiet city or elseware in province?

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## dennis4558

> Are you in Roiet city or elseware in province


Hi Norton, 
Nope, still in the states, won't be there until Jan. Hopefully about the time for finishing touches if everything goes good.

Wife's brother lives just east and north of you, their house is flooded again, they had to move out. I think it was about 2 years ago the same happened. I seen on some news clips the high road/dike was washed out, the news interviewed brothers wife, my wife said maybe because most in that area speak Laos where she speaks both.

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## Norton

Let me rephase. Is the house in Roi Et city or elsewhere in the province.  :Smile:

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## dennis4558

> Let me rephase. Is the house in Roi Et city or elsewhere in the province.


Norton,
The house is in Roi Et just north of Hwy 23 inside Hwy 232. We'll invite you over when we get over there and you can check it out.

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## Norton

Got it. Just inside the northern ring road. Reason I asked, I would be happy to pop by and have a look during construction if you want me to.

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## David48atTD

> Got it. Just inside the northern ring road. Reason I asked, I would be happy to pop by and have a look during construction if you want me to.


Work Permit?

Professional advice, or just a friend?  :Smile:

----------


## dennis4558

> Reason I asked, I would be happy to pop by and have a look during construction if you want me to.


Sure Norton, I don't have a address, but do you remember where her sister lives? It's just about 2 blocks from there.

----------


## dennis4558

> just a friend


Hi David, 
I met Norton the last time we were in LOS, stopped by his house (nice house) and went out for lunch together, had a good time.

----------


## David48atTD

^  Sure

I taking the piss out of Norton ... I know him a little from other places.

----------


## Mozzbie47

> ^  Sure
> 
> I taking the piss out of Norton ... I know him a little from other places.


  Oh I hope you didnt offend him.. :bananaman:

----------


## Norton

> Oh I hope you didnt offend him..


Impossible. Way beyond the easily offended stage.  :Smile: 




> Professional advice, or just a friend?


Just a fellow TD member assisting another. That's what we do or should be doing.
Answerered your PM Mozz. Line ID sent.

----------


## Mozzbie47

> Impossible. Way beyond the easily offended stage. 
> 
> 
> Just a fellow TD member assisting another. That's what we do or should be doing.
> Answerered your PM Mozz. Line ID sent.


I jest sir,,I try to help other on TD always have.

----------


## dennis4558

Rain for the next couple days so I doubt we'll see any work being done, will update once the rain stops.

----------


## dennis4558

While waiting for the rain to stop, between showers they are getting stakes ready to set up forms for beams, builder went to get wood for forms but on his way his pickup almost died several times driving through water and when he arrived at shop they were closed due to flooding, so another delay.



In the meantime it looks like they are raising rebar for outside kitchen.



I'm curious how they are going to backfill and support under  beam, all the loose dirt is mud, be interesting to see Thai solution to that.

----------


## Norton

> waiting for the rain to stop,


As of 4am this new day, still a steady rain with no let up in sight. Managed to get to Roiet city yesterday as flood water level down a bit allowing exit from my villahe after 4 days stuck at home.

Afraid little or no progress on build for next several days Dennis.

----------


## dennis4558

> still a steady rain with no let up in sight


Hi Norton, were you able to stop by the site when you were in Roi Et?  I looked at the forecast for there and that's what I seen too, I guess we'll just have to wait until the weather clears up.

----------


## Norton

> were you able to stop by the site when you were in Roi Et?


No, Had a friend take me in his truck so didn't want to bother him. Our wee Honda Jazz would have been swept away.

----------


## ootai

Dennis you said,

"I'm curious how they are going to backfill and support under  beam, all the loose dirt is mud, be interesting to see Thai solution to that."

As it is a "beam" it does not require any support underneath once the concrete has dried. The concrete will reach roughly 70% of its final strentgh after 7 days and 90+% after 28 days.
So providing the rebar is strong enough to support any vertical load the beam will be self supporting.

If you are worried about the fill between the beams supporting the floor then I believe they will most likely use precast concrete slabs laid across the beams and then put rebar above them and then pour the concrete floor. 

So in the end you could theoratically leave the area under the beams and floor empty as in have a house raised above the natural ground level.

Hope all that makes sense.

----------


## dennis4558

> As it is a "beam" it does not require any support underneath once the concrete has dried. The concrete will reach roughly 70% of its final strentgh after 7 days and 90+% after 28 days.
> So providing the rebar is strong enough to support any vertical load the beam will be self supporting.


Hi Ootai, I understand that, what I was talking about was because they had to raise the rebar for beams 30 cm in the outdoor kitchen, I was wondering how they were going to backfill area below on distance that was raised, here we would use sand and compact, but there I'm sure they didn't do that and the only thing I see that was available was wet dirt or mud which wouldn't be much to hold the bottom of the concrete, the rest of the forms have a couple inches of concrete for base.

----------


## dennis4558

Water went down and forms were delivered to site, and I mean regular concrete forms ( I'm impressed), couple days and they were done ready for concrete.





Looking in from the street



Living room, bathroom on the right, not able to see entry and front bedroom. I'm still trying to explain how to take pictures  :Smile:  but I must remain calm if I get too excited I may not get any.



Second bedroom/utility room on left, kitchen on right, beyond that is outdoor kitchen, it looks big but daughter said it was 2.5 meter like it's supposed to be.



And a nice picture of small building rebar behind house. The pour is scheduled for this weekend, I asked for some action photos of that, not sure if it will happen.

----------


## dennis4558

A little more news, additional crew member this past week, foreman's DIL had a baby, week later mother back on the job working, tough woman.

----------


## ootai

> Hi Ootai, I understand that, what I was talking about was because they had to raise the rebar for beams 30 cm in the outdoor kitchen, I was wondering how they were going to backfill area below on distance that was raised, here we would use sand and compact, but there I'm sure they didn't do that and the only thing I see that was available was wet dirt or mud which wouldn't be much to hold the bottom of the concrete, the rest of the forms have a couple inches of concrete for base.



Dennis sorry about that I misunderstood what you were saying/asking. 
I reckon they will just shutter down to the current level and then infill with some material and then concrete on top of that.

My question is why are you raising the floor of the outside kitchen 30cm. I would have expected it to be lowered like they lower the bathroom floors.

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## dennis4558

I was jumping the gun  a little, shoring up the forms to be completed this weekend, and cement truck comes monday, A (builder) said all beams should be poured by friday. Wants check on monday for next phase.



Front of house forms braced.





Still working on forms at rear of house.

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## dennis4558

I finally figured out how to get picture of floor plan, I had it in pdf but that didn't work, I used clip art to get photo image.



First floor.


Second floor.


Small bldg. Urinal, stool/shower, utility room (water tank, water pump, power panel to external lights, and gate, etc., tool shop

----------


## dennis4558

> My question is why are you raising the floor of the outside kitchen 30cm. I would have expected it to be lowered like they lower the bathroom floors.


They had the outside kitchen 30 cm lower than inside kitchen, I didn't want steps, if it would have been like bathrooms which would have been about 5 cm I would have been OK with that. Our bathrooms will be at same level, only shower area will be lowered. Dry bathroom wet shower  :Smile:

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## ootai

Dennis
Thanks for the explanation. I looked at the pictures and it appeared to me that the floor of the outside kitchen was level with the rest of the house and you were going to raise it up 30cm.
I understand you not wanting a step between the outside kitchen and the inside but  if it was me I would still have some difference in floor levels.
We have an outside kitchen and to me it seems like the missus likes it because she doesn't have to be so careful about making a bit of a mess.
If the floor gets messy just get the hose and wash it out.

cheers

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## dennis4558

[QUOTE=ootai;3998996]If the floor gets messy just get the hose and wash it out.

Then I'd have to put a floor drain in.  :Smile:

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## dennis4558

Here's a couple photos the builder posted on Line, closeups of form work

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## dennis4558

> Wants check on monday for next phase.


That will be the following monday after beams are poured. My script editor is slipping, didn't catch that.

----------


## Norton

I will be dropping by later today to have a look. Will post a couple pics here.
Does look some progress in spite of the flooding.

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## dennis4558

> I will be dropping by later today to have a look


Thanks Norton, be good to have another view on things, if everything went as planned they should be pouring.

----------


## Norton

They are pouring.

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## Norton

Sideways.  :rofl: 
Sorry. Pics flipped.

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## NamPikToot

Here's a question. On the concrete pours, especially the columns do they use vibros to get airpockets out? I've seen cases of fairly extensive post form removal touch ups and i'd not be happy with them.

----------


## Thai Dhupp

> Here's a question. On the concrete pours, especially the columns do they use vibros to get air-pockets out? I've seen cases of fairly extensive post form removal touch ups and i'd not be happy with them.


On my build they used the *vibro* for both the columns and the floors. Its essential if you are 'bucketing' it in for the columns - lots of chance for *air voids*. I thought the floor vibro was a little excessive but its a solid structure so I'm not complaining! If he's not planning to use the vibro, change his mind!

Re the *rain* etc... this is a good thing for the concrete - concrete curing is a chemical process, not just 'drying out'. Within limits, the longer it stays wet, the harder it becomes ( that's why in hot weather you get hessian matting placed over concrete slabs, and plastic sheeting over slabs and columns, and someone sprays it down with water every day).

The whole thing is looking great, BTW... good luck for the rest. *Enjoying* this thread.

----------


## Norton

> do they use vibros to get airpockets out?


They do and the guys above pics were using one.

----------


## dennis4558

Thank Norton, for stopping by and giving us an update, I figured out why the pictures I posted were flipped, it was because offile size, after reducing file size they went in straight. 
I also noticed on earlier pics that they were using vibrator on footings so hopefully no air pockets, so far this crew seems to know what they're doing.

----------


## dennis4558

> Re the rain etc... this is a good thing for the concrete - concrete curing is a chemical process, not just 'drying out'. Within limits, the longer it stays wet, the harder it becomes ( that's why in hot weather you get hessian matting placed over concrete slabs, and plastic sheeting over slabs and columns, and someone sprays it down with water every day).
> 
> The whole thing is looking great, BTW... good luck for the rest. Enjoying this thread.


Thanks TD,

With it raining just about every day I should have some strong concrete lol.

----------


## dennis4558

> Here's a question. On the concrete pours, especially the columns do they use vibros to get airpockets out? I've seen cases of fairly extensive post form removal touch ups and i'd not be happy with them.


From what I've seen in a couple photos and what Norton seen they are using a vibrator NPT.

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## dennis4558

My pics come by slow mail, here's a few more of the pour.





Look at the length of that cement chute, I'm surprised it doesn't buckle from the weight.

----------


## Norton

> My pics come by slow mail, here's a few more of the pour.


From your daughter no doubt. Met her yesterday. Pleasant young lady.



> Look at the length of that cement chute, I'm surprised it doesn't buckle from the weight.


Only one place to park truck so going to have long reaches. They are restricting flow to reduce weight on long runs.

----------


## dennis4558

> From your daughter no doubt. Pleasant young lady.


She can be when she wants.   :Smile:  She's getting better at taking pictures, I don't have to prod as much.

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## dennis4558

Pour is finished and forms are removed.





Damn dog is marking his territory before I get a chance to.







Small building.

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## dennis4558

Not sure what's going on with the above post, pictures showed until I posted them now only file shows.

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## dennis4558

A little bit of honeycomb, but I've seen worse.

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## dennis4558

The termite exterminators have arrived.

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## dennis4558

Hoses being installed.

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## dennis4558

Hoses brought out under the beams, I was hoping they would all be in one location but I am told not, there will be 7 places, it better be neat or there will be 2 women on their case.

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## dennis4558

Excavation continues, one wheel barrow full at a time, they're moving all the dirt inside the house beams to perimeter wall.

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## David48atTD

> Not sure what's going on with the above post, pictures showed until I posted them now only file shows.


Apparently new Forum software ... an update I think is what they call it.

It should make the Forum faster as only the photos in the viewed post have to load as opposed to the whole page of images.

----------


## dennis4558

> Apparently new Forum software ... an update I think is what they call it.
> 
> It should make the Forum faster as only the photos in the viewed post have to load as opposed to the whole page of images.


Thanks David, I think you're right, I see today file now shows as small image, when clicked on they enlarge.

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## dennis4558

Termite exterminators must be close to finishing, nozzles installed on hoses.

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## dennis4558

Work commences, post forms in place ready for the pour.






View into living room



Standing in the Thai kitchen looking forward



Small building view from house



Small building viewed from back of lot



Sunset on the building site

See some issues in these photos that we need to talk to builder about, don't see electrical under ground or sink drains from kitchen under ground, also fresh water under ground, same goes for small building electrical and fresh water. Bath will be poured separate so I'm sure they will do sewer and grey water drain later.

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## dennis4558

I thought they were going to use precast slabs for first floor but I guess labor is cheaper then slabs, that was a lot of fill needed to fill that all in.

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## mikenot

If they are not going to use precast, has there been any sign of them making the concrete "cakes" for spacers underneath the rebar mesh ? Or are they going to let the mesh sit on the ground instead of being in the middle of the concrete where it belongs ?

----------


## dennis4558

> If they are not going to use precast, has there been any sign of them making the concrete "cakes" for spacers underneath the rebar mesh ? Or are they going to let the mesh sit on the ground instead of being in the middle of the concrete where it belongs ?


Good question Mike, I asked the question on our construction group on "Line", we'll see what or if we get a response.

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## dennis4558

I got notified that the daughter didn't tell contractor that all pipes, water, electric and sewer drains were to be underground, so that will be an extra, better to catch it now then put up with lines on the outside of buildings. It should be a easy fix they only have to do a little digging, all loose fill dirt.

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## dennis4558

More bracing in preparation for the  post pour.





I see the front entry and front bedroom don't have fill in them, my guess maybe sewer lines are going through there, any other guesses.

----------


## dennis4558

> Good question Mike, I asked the question on our construction group on "Line", we'll see what or if we get a response.


I got a response, not what I was expecting, builder gave me the specs/dimensions of the wire mesh being used.  :smiley laughing:  I guess his English isn't the best. Wife was going to ask him again in Thai, will let you know what he says. I know here all the concrete I've poured we don't use chairs but we make sure the wire mesh is pulled up as we pour.

----------


## dennis4558

Thanks to TD's thread I posted some pictures of his concrete chairs and we got the message across. He said OK, so does that mean he's knows what I mean and is going to use them or just knows what I mean and will pour without the concrete chairs  :Smile:

----------


## mikenot

^ Pulling the rebar up "might" be ok ....if they do not walk all over it again and tread it back to soil level. There is a big new house going up near us in Muang Samsip, easily going to be the biggest house in town. 2 storey, 34 columns, plus another 8 column garage/workshop/?,  lots of baht being spent on it, but when pouring the slab I noticed that the workers walked all over the mesh after they had lifted it up.
Before we left BKK there was a new condo being built next door by one of the big name developers, they had a couple of the burmese women continually making thousands of those concrete spacers. I guess labour is so cheap they don't need the plastic chairs here.

_I see the front entry and front bedroom don't have fill in them, my guess maybe sewer lines are going through there, any other guesses.
_You would think that the sewer line would go direct from the toilet to the septic ...where are they going to be ?
My *guess*​ would be that they will fill the empty spaces there with the fill they now have to dig out of the bathroom and kitchen.

----------


## Klondyke

> concrete spacers


Sometimes a piece of a brick/block is used. Wondering how much worse does it make?

----------


## Thai Dhupp

> Thanks to TD's thread I posted some pictures of his concrete chairs and we got the message across. He said OK, so does that mean he's knows what I mean and is going to use them or just knows what I mean and will pour without the concrete chairs


lol glad to have helped, *Dennis* - it is important to have that mesh inside the concrete slab for max *strength.*

----------


## dennis4558

> My guess​ would be that they will fill the empty spaces there with the fill they now have to dig out of the bathroom and kitchen.


Hi Mike, There will be some from the kitchen, the bath still doesn't have fill in it yet. I think the septic tank will be placed at the front of the house because only 1.5 m on each side of house.

----------


## dennis4558

> My guess​ would be that they will fill the empty spaces there with the fill they now have to dig out of the bathroom and kitchen.


I think any kind of concrete or block material would work but the chairs used at TD's house look like they had wire embedded to be used to tie to wire mesh. Loose pieces of block or brick would probably not stay in place, and the wire would end up on the sand.

----------


## dennis4558

> it is important to have that mesh inside the concrete slab for max strength.


I agree with you there TD

----------


## dennis4558

Another bit of info I was told by wife, nephew asked if plastic was going to be installed under concrete and builder said it was, that's another good sign everything is going in the right direction.

No photos today, daughter slept all day, she's a night owl, sleeps all day and up all night. As you may have noticed most of the pictures were taken at sunset.

----------


## David48atTD

Dennis, I'm curious ... how did you come across the land?

Given the size and dimensions of the lot, the style and standard of the surrounding dwellings,
your place will be at odds with the neighbourhood.

----------


## dennis4558

> Dennis, I'm curious ... how did you come across the land?
> 
> Given the size and dimensions of the lot, the style and standard of the surrounding dwellings,
> your place will be at odds with the neighbourhood.


Hi David, We found the lot by coincidence, one of the times when we were there the owner heard we were looking for land and she was selling and desperate for money so we got a good deal.
The house won't be much different as far as size, there are 2 story town houses next to old house next to us, on front most are single story so we will tower over them, there are a couple new houses in the area but single story but similar style, because of the narrow lot we were limited as to how we could build, I'll like the idea that when the family comes I can retreat to the 2nd floor living room and do my own thing.

----------


## dennis4558

Forms are off and pillars wrapped in plastic.



View from the front. As you can see I guessed wrong about sewer going through front bedroom and entry, those spaces have both been filled.



A little farther back, bathroom is space not filled with dirt.



Standing in the outdoor kitchen look to the front.



Small building in back, I'm not sure of the height of the poles but it looks like I may be able to add a loft for storage, always need a place to store junk that you never use  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

----------


## Klondyke

> your place will be at odds with the neighbourhood.


"at odd" - perhaps not so much in the visible outline, but surely in the invisible foundation structures...

----------


## dennis4558

Got the SIL to take some action pics today.



Plastic is down.



Mesh going down next.



Waiting for concrete chairs next. If it happens

----------


## dennis4558

Didn't see any pipes coming out of the floor, had some discussions with builder, he didn't know what we were talking about, until I sent him a picture.

 

An artist I'm not, after we sent picture we haven't heard a comment, I'm guessing what I call underground is not the same as their definition, I'm thinking partial underground to them is the same, because I'm sure he was thinking of going out the side of the house then go underground. I wanted to catch them before he poured the floor so he couldn't use the excuse that it was too late, we'll see what happens.

----------


## David48atTD

> Hi David, We found the lot by coincidence, one of the times when we were there the owner heard we were looking for land and she was selling and desperate for money so we got a good deal.
> The house won't be much different as far as size, there are 2 story town houses next to old house next to us, on front most are single story so we will tower over them, there are a couple new houses in the area but single story but similar style, because of the narrow lot we were limited as to how we could build, I'll like the idea that when the family comes I can retreat to the 2nd floor living room and do my own thing.


ALL GOOD ... thanks

----------


## dennis4558

I found out this morning the floor pour was put on hold until the pipes get dug in.  :bananaman:  I'm getting very impressed with this builder, he seems capable of whatever we have asked so far. Getting our point across is a little difficult but it's like they say a picture is worth a 1000 words.

----------


## dennis4558

The insecticide guys were on site yesterday after plastic and wire mesh was put down.



Must be some nasty stuff, for them to be wearing full clothes, gloves and masks.



Injecting around the posts.



Spraying along the beams,



Didn't see any pictures where they hooked up to underground pipes, maybe already did it or will do later.

----------


## RPETER65

> The insecticide guys were on site yesterday after plastic and wire mesh was put down.
> 
> 
> 
> Must be some nasty stuff, for them to be wearing full clothes, gloves and masks.
> 
> 
> 
> Injecting around the posts.
> ...



You might want want to check with your builder about putting piping under the plastic to pump insecticide under the house at future dates.

----------


## dennis4558

> You might want want to check with your builder about putting piping under the plastic to pump insecticide under the house at future dates.


They do have pipe in each beam area, you can see that in earlier posts. I've never seen it also put under the plastic.

----------


## RPETER65

> They do have pipe in each beam area, you can see that in earlier posts. I've never seen it also put under the plastic.



We we built our home in Thailand 13 years ago,the builder had the crew run 1/2 in. pipe with holes drilled about every 12 in. with a threaded spud outside the house. We pump bug killer under the house twice a year,takes care of the tiny ants that always find a way in also the cock roaches.

----------


## dennis4558

The floor gets poured.





Dog decided to check out the freshly poured concrete.



Someone doesn't know how to read the plans, looks like we're getting a sunken living room on one end. Only the entry should be lowered 10 cm which is on the right, between the left posts is the living room.

----------


## dennis4558

The floor forms are being removed.







This last picture had me confused, what is the framed out area in the Thai kitchen, when asked the builder he said it was where the water was coming in and the boiler was to be placed, which makes no sense at all. The water is coming out of the small building on the other side of the lot and and where this is at there is only a 4 foot wall. The boiler and drinking water equipment is to be on the wall by bedroom next to kitchen in the Thai kitchen, if that makes any sense. We sent a picture for builder, easier then trying to explain  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

----------


## dennis4558

He seems to be making extra work for himself instead of doing things right the first time he is having to redo or work harder to do things right. Example - the electrical - instead of digging in the pipe he put a boxout in the area where electrical will come in, now they will have to bore in under beam and floor to boxout location.

----------


## dennis4558

I got a few more pictures to show what they did for electric/tv/internet feeds.





I guess that's a big enough chase for what needs to go through there, I would have thought burying the conduits would have been easier but they probably didn't know or have proper pipe to do the job. I would have had the electrician in to do that before they poured the floor.

----------


## dennis4558

The above box and breaker panel will be in the storage space under the steps so shouldn't be a problem.

----------


## dennis4558

I think we still have a problem with kitchen sinks and wash machine drains, in this picture is where he said there should be same setup as with electrical feed chase.

----------


## dennis4558

Just found out about kitchen drains, I still don't understand how it's happening but this is the picture as to where it's going to happen, I've requested more pictures.

----------


## dennis4558

I got more pictures and 1 of them shows the area where plumbing for kitchen will go. They did a quick form job, but some of the concrete seeped under the form that's why on the other picture it looked like it was full of concrete, this one it's easier to see, the only thing I don't want is they have it going into the inside kitchen, I'll have them put the plumbing on the outside and only go through the wall at the sink location for water and drain. Wife understands so it should be an easy one to explain.

----------


## dennis4558

Material has arrived for doing second floor beam and tee supports have been made.

----------


## dennis4558

Here's a couple shots of the bathroom areas.



House bathroom



Outside wet bathroom with shower in front and outside urinal to the back. I tried for an inside urinal but was out voted 2 to 1, so had to settle for this one outside.

----------


## dennis4558

Here's our window scheme, 17 - 80 cm X 120 cm (or something close) 1 - 100 cm X 240 cm (front living room window) 2 - bathroom windows, 1 - sliding glass door ( second floor balcony) I'm open to suggestions, have a tight budget so price is definite one of the deciding factors, don't want some Chinese made window that I won't be able to get parts for, leaning toward UPVC but aluminum will also be considered.

----------


## Klondyke

> have a tight budget so price is definite one of the deciding factors, don't want some Chinese made window that I won't be able to get parts for,


Nowadays, there is a great affordable choice at the big sellers (GH, TW, etc). Yes, most of them are Chinese, why not? What parts of windows should be needed?

----------


## dennis4558

> What parts of windows should be needed?


Window hardware, latches, hinges window pane that someone breaks. Hoffen is german designed, assume made in Thailand may be an option, carried at HP. I remember when we were there last oct. when asking about windows one of the stores said they carried parts for some of the brands, just don't remember which.

----------


## dennis4558

Looks like support for 2nd floor beam is up, forms may be next.

----------


## dennis4558

I jumped the gun a little, looks like rebar is in place, maybe next photos will be forms in place.



Front of the house



Looks like a jungle in there



The rear of the house



Closer view from the front

----------


## dennis4558

More work done on second level.



Beam from house to car park post.



Some of the second level post rebar in place.





A couple shots from the second floor cat walk.



Another view to the rear of the house.

----------


## Mozzbie47

Bloody hell, going great guns, good job.

----------


## dennis4558

It was very quiet on our Line construction page so we asked what was going on, the daughter left town to visit a newborn cousin so no site visits from her.

This is the tentative schedule for the next couple weeks per builder "A". If I got the translation right from my wife.

In 2 days pour beams, 10-8-19 set precast floor boards, 10-9-19 pour floor over precast floor boards, 10-12-19 pour 2nd level posts, weather permitting this should be the way things should work out.

----------


## dennis4558

> Bloody hell, going great guns, good job.


Thanks Mozzbie, got my fingers crossed it continues that way.

----------


## dennis4558

I forgot one process, the steps will be formed to 2nd level after beams for 2nd floor are poured, and I'm guessing poured when floor is poured, unless they mix their own concrete for steps.

----------


## dennis4558

Daughters back and she sent a better view from the street.

----------


## dennis4558

Might be a day or two delay in pouring beams, nephew wants more rebar put in the beams and builder agreed to do it.



This is the photo they were discussing when deciding to add the rebar, what I can see from previous photos is 4 rebar in beam, so I'm thinking they will add an additional rebar like drawing on right.

----------


## Thai Dhupp

Hey, Dennis...

I can't remember if you mentioned it earlier... are you going to use the *AAC blocks* for the walls, to get the insulation benefits?

Prices relatively competitive against standard blocks or the 'red brick' option and the benefit (at least for me on my build) are very good.

Fantastic *progress*, BTW... keep it up and good luck!

(AAC -*Autoclaved Aerated Concrete*, for those who might not know )

----------


## dennis4558

> . are you going to use the AAC blocks for the walls, to get the insulation benefits?


Hi TD, Yes we're using the insulated block, I originally wanted 10 cm block but builder said special order, so we had it bid with 7.5 cm, now builder is saying 10 cm block are available, his supplier must be stocking and he was pushing us to change. His additional charge would be 50 - 60 T Baht. We're checking with the nephew to see if that's a good price, then get it in writing.

----------


## dennis4558

Second floor beams are poured.



Looks like storm sewer cover didn't stand up to loaded cement trucks.









Safety rails or ropes not needed.



Builder "A" showing off his acrobatic skills

----------


## dennis4558

Here's a short clip of one load going up.




Now that I figured out how to do this, any other clips I get I'll post, a little dessert for the appetites.

----------


## dennis4558

Second floor beam forms have been removed.







Couple days and supports should come down, still no activity on the steps. Word has it this crew is just about done, once concrete work is done steel crew should be coming to start on roof.

This crew was in a grouchy mood before beam pour, seems they were a bit upset about changes nephew had them do to rebar in beams, daughter is supposed to offer some treats to get them in a good mood again.

----------


## dennis4558

Beam support trees coming down.

----------


## dennis4558

We've got a start on the steps to second floor.



More angles of the steps.

----------


## dennis4558

More work done on steps to second floor.



Rebar in place for steps to landing, still need risers.



Landing with beam support tying to posts.



Steps from landing to second floor, still need rebar and risers.

----------


## dennis4558

Rebar and risers are in, I think we're ready for a pour.



Lower flight of stairs.



Upper flight of stairs.



Landing between stairs.

----------


## dennis4558

Now that the 2nd floor precast planking is in place our camera person has a shot of the stairs from above.

----------


## dennis4558

2nd floor precast planking in place.



Looking toward front of house.



Looking toward rear of house.



2nd floor bathroom



2nd floor balcony

----------


## dennis4558

Now some pics from below



Front of house, drop down for balcony on upper left



Standing in Living Room looking toward back of house, steps going up on left, bathroom floor support on right.



Standing in dining room looking up at 2nd floor bedroom in rear of house.

----------


## dennis4558

Trying to talk the daughter into doing a narrative video walk through of the house, we'll see how that goes  :tieme:

----------


## Norton

Coming along nicely Dennis. Much accomplished since I was on site.

----------


## dennis4558

> Coming along nicely Dennis. Much accomplished since I was on site.


Thanks Norton, I was just going to ask if you had a chance to stop by lately to see how it looks, I know actually seeing it would be different than looking at it in pictures

----------


## dennis4558

Looks like 2nd floor is ready for some concrete, forms in, post rebar up and mesh down.



Front side view we haven't seen before.

\

Front balcony



Bathroom on left and stairs on right



A  look into the backyard



Front view, I sure would like to do something about those wires going across front, maybe have to talk to someone when we're there to see if we can tidy them up a bit

----------


## Thai Dhupp

> Hi TD, Yes we're using the insulated block, I originally wanted 10 cm block but builder said special order, so we had it bid with 7.5 cm, now builder is saying 10 cm block are available, his supplier must be stocking and he was pushing us to change. His additional charge would be 50 - 60 T Baht. We're checking with the nephew to see if that's a good price, then get it in writing.


Although 'everyone to his own', for reference, I used *150 mm* AAC blocks on the outer walls and *100 mm* AAC blocks on the inner walls. 

Might be a little overkill but... the house is a lot cooler than the outside, even when NO A/C is on. I used *Q-CON* but other brands are available.

----------


## dennis4558

Got a bunch of pictures of steps and 2nd floor pour, we'll start with the steps



Handy crane operater





Finishers doing their job



Even the guy in charge of the vibrator doing his job



Lower steps finished



Working on the landing





Working on upper steps



No flip flops for this crew



Steps and landing finished

----------


## dennis4558

Now for 2nd floor bathroom and balcony



Bathroom floor getting it's first load of concrete



Only the latest and most up to date tools for the job

 

Bathroom floor finished, shower drain isn't where the wife wanted it but I guess it'll still drain water



Only picture of balcony getting finished

----------


## dennis4558

And now for some floor pictures



Everyone hard at work



Lot easier dumping with no obstacles 



Wah La finished floor

Didn't get a picture of finished floor to the front

----------


## mikenot

> 


I notice they did not close off the tops of the pipes before the pour, it's too late for this but it is a good precaution to cover the pipes to prevent any concrete being splashed into them and perhaps blocking them. Even just a plastic bag taped over the top would do.
I was reading an old build story a few days ago where somebody had to rip up the kitchen floor because the drain pipe was blocked .....with concrete.

----------


## mikenot

> Thanks to TD's thread I posted some pictures of his concrete chairs and we got the message across. He said OK, so does that mean he's knows what I mean and is going to use them or just knows what I mean and will pour without the concrete chairs


From looking at the photos I think you have got your answer ....

----------


## dennis4558

Hi Mike, you're right on taping the pipes, around here duct tape is normally used, but when you're not on site you don't see things until after the fact, and hope nothing goes wrong. Same goes with the cement chairs.

----------


## dennis4558

Another thing that came up was the size of rebar used for bathroom and balcony floors, nephew says rebar too small not what was spec'd. From the translations I was getting seem like he has more rebar but not right size, nephew was going to do some calculations to see if it passes or it will have to be torn out and re-poured.
I'm not sure why nephew doesn't get photos before the pour to make sure everything is right, he seems to wait until after the pour to question things. I try to stay out of family affairs.  :Smile:  I only make suggestions and hope someone listens.

----------


## Norton

> I only make suggestions and hope someone listens.


Trust me they listen then go off and do things the way they always have. Farang not know Thai way.  :Smile: 

Been awhile since last there and not much was done yet. I did see a couple things that had been finished that I would have done differently but in general they are doing a good job.

I will drop by tomorrow now that there is more to see and give you feedback.

----------


## dennis4558

> I will drop by tomorrow now that there is more to see and give you feedback.


Thanks Norton, be waiting for your view of things going on.

----------


## dennis4558

Not to much going on today, stripped some of the forms and got forms on site for 2nd floor posts.

----------


## dennis4558

Steel has arrived for the roof, once posts are poured I understand new crew will come to install roof. 



Forms are in place and ready for cement.

----------


## dennis4558

> I notice they did not close off the tops of the pipes before the pour, it's too late for this but it is a good precaution to cover the pipes to prevent any concrete being splashed into them and perhaps blocking them. Even just a plastic bag taped over the top would do.
> I was reading an old build story a few days ago where somebody had to rip up the kitchen floor because the drain pipe was blocked .....with concrete.


Mike,
Had the daughter take a picture below bathroom, appears what they did is place pieces of pipe where they need to go in form, guessing they will remove pieces of pipe after forms are removed and use holes for pipe that will be installed later.

----------


## dennis4558

Rumor has it that the 2nd floor posts have been poured, and by the evidence on these pictures I think they have.



Looks like this pour was done manually, bucket brigade I would guess.



I little too much concrete mixed, guess it will be a good base for driveway.



View from the back of house

----------


## dennis4558

The beatings  :tieme:  helped, here is a video link to first walk through of house.

https://youtu.be/ySaXjoiVOCM

----------


## mikenot

^ Now you just have to train her to turn the camera and have horizontal video  :Very Happy:

----------


## dennis4558

> ^ Now you just have to train her to turn the camera and have horizontal video


Hi Mike, I might be walking on thin ice trying to tell a woman how to use her phone, I don't want to lose my camera person at this point.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

----------


## dennis4558

As you seen in the video the forms are off





Posts are wrapped and waiting for the roofing crew, which I was told was happening this week

----------


## dennis4558

The roofing crew has arrived.



Roof steel laid out and getting some paint.


Needed to pick out the roof tiles, 2 week delivery time.

----------


## dennis4558

Daughter found a video of how the reflective foil sheeting is to be install and posted it on our construction Line page, now the builder shouldn't have a problem knowing how we want it done.



When I was in Thailand last year we went to some building sites, all the houses we looked at had the reflective foil under the roofing tiles, when asking the builder about it, they just said "that's the way we do it", that comment eliminated several builders.

----------


## David48atTD

> Daughter found a video of how the reflective foil sheeting is to be install and posted it on our construction Line page, now the builder shouldn't have a problem knowing how we want it done.


I truly enjoyed watching that instructional video.



Cardboard washers, safety gloves and helmets.

Heck, they even had enclosed shoes on   :Smile: 

But reflective sarking is a must with a new build in Thailand if it's within the budget.

When we partially renovated the Thai Family Farmhouse, we used in the areas we inhabit.

----------


## dennis4558

> Heck, they even had enclosed shoes on


Hi David,  I'll bet that won't be part of our crews safety gear, lol

We just had a meeting last night about the reflective sheeting and he was complaining about installing it that way, because a different crew does the shingles versus the crew that is doing the steel rafters, he thinks the sheeting will be damaged by weather before they get the roof on. " Not our problem" that's the way it's going to get done. I was surprised that's what wife and daughter told him.

We also had a issue with the shingles we wanted, the one's we had picked were an extra cost, he said 30,000 baht, I said no way put on what was in the bid. By the time we finished with our meeting he cut that price in half to 15 t baht.  :Smile:  So we went with the shingles (roof tiles) we wanted. I think the reason he cut the price that much is because these shingles can be delivered sooner. If the sheeting get damaged and he has to replace it, it would be a big expense for him.

----------


## dennis4558

They have a good start on the roof steel, most of the main steel is up, just some bracing then the reflective sheeting and purlins.









I bet you guys are all jealous and wish you had a ladder like this at your house

Daughter said there are just two guys doing the steel work, when they finish another crew comes in to do the roof shingles (tiles)

----------


## dennis4558

More progress on the roof



I would have thought there would have been more bracing on the main steel, but I guess they don't have to worry about snow load like we do here.



Reflective sheeting going on and in the right place must help to have a video for training  :Smile:

----------


## Mozzbie47

The Thai's are very slow when it comes to insulation, I had a young man snigger and say, we dont use unsulation in Thailand. 
  Even the big building supply store's keep a very limited range, well that was the case 4 or 5 years ago.

----------


## Norton

> More progress on the roof


Looking good. Steel and foil looks ok. Forgot what roof tiles you are going to have? Assume many more steel slats to attach will be needed and installed on top of foil?

Will drop by next in Roi Et.

----------


## dennis4558

> The Thai's are very slow when it comes to insulation, I had a young man snigger and say, we dont use unsulation in Thailand. 
>   Even the big building supply store's keep a very limited range, well that was the case 4 or 5 years ago.


Hi Mozzbie, I think you're right and when they do use it they put it on wrong. That's why we sent a video to the builder on how it is supposed to be installed.

----------


## dennis4558

[QUOTE=Norton;4017989]Looking good. Steel and foil looks ok. Forgot what roof tiles you are going to have? Assume many more steel slats to attach will be needed and installed on top of foil?

Thanks Norton, Here's that photo of the tiles.


Not really a good picture of finished roof but gives you some idea.

----------


## dennis4558

More progress on putting on the reflective foil.





It doesn't look like they've installed purlins on top of foil to hold it in place. Question, don't know where or how to space them or not there job, roofing crews job, but why put the foil on if you aren't going to hold it down.  :Confused: 



I tried to get the daughter to go on top to get some pictures, you can guess what she told me.

----------


## knowsitlike

Hi Dennis, thanks for the thread and write up very helpful as always to follow these. I had a question as to how they will finish the top of the columns to the steel roof beams? as currently it looks from the photos like they are connected only into the rebar out of the top of the column with a space- are they going to put another concrete form along to tie that in later? I’m no builder in Thailand (yet) but interested to see how that is done. Cheers

----------


## David48atTD

> 



Something, if you could explain for me.

To do with how the Roof joists/bearers are attached to the posts?





What I don't understand is why the rero (steel reinforcing) in the concrete upright posts is bearing the weight of the roof?

I've seen in other constructions and when we did our carport, that the rero protrudes through the concrete post, but the bearer sits on top of the concrete post (so that the weight of the structure above is carried by the post and not the rero) and the protruded rero is simply welded to the bearer.

As in when we built our carport ...



I'm sure there is a logical explanation.

Maybe Thai logic?   :Smile:

----------


## dennis4558

Good question Knows & David, I just posted the picture and asked the same question of our construction group on Line, we'll see what kind of answer we get.

----------


## ootai

> Good question Knows & David, I just posted the picture and asked the same question of our construction group on Line, we'll see what kind of answer we get.


This is the same question I wanted to ask as well.  I think it probably came about because they didn't make the concrete in the pillars high enough, which could have been due to them not having long enough formwork or they just didn't fill the forms full.

Anyway the way I have seen this issue "fixed" is for them to come along later and add concrete to the top of the pillars by hand to fill the gap which then protects the steel from rusting.
While (in my opinion) this might look OK it isn't the best as the weight of the roof then is on "fresh" concrete. So the end result is your roof is virtually being held up by the steel in the pillar.

So if were me the main thing I would want them to do is fill in the concrete ASAP and preferably before anymore weight gets added to the roof.  I didn't really make out whether your tiles were concrete type tiles but if they are then they weigh a lot.

As for the 'Thai" solution it will be " Farang think too much!"

----------


## dennis4558

> This is the same question I wanted to ask as well.  I think it probably came about because they didn't make the concrete in the pillars high enough, which could have been due to them not having long enough formwork or they just didn't fill the forms full.
> 
> Anyway the way I have seen this issue "fixed" is for them to come along later and add concrete to the top of the pillars by hand to fill the gap which then protects the steel from rusting.
> While (in my opinion) this might look OK it isn't the best as the weight of the roof then is on "fresh" concrete. So the end result is your roof is virtually being held up by the steel in the pillar.
> 
> So if were me the main thing I would want them to do is fill in the concrete ASAP and preferably before anymore weight gets added to the roof.  I didn't really make out whether your tiles were concrete type tiles but if they are then they weigh a lot.
> 
> As for the 'Thai" solution it will be " Farang think too much!"


Yep Ootai, that's what they are going to do, filling with concrete today. Roof tiles still on order so concrete will have some time to cure before weight of roof tiles are put on.

----------


## dennis4558

Ootai, I had the wife read spec's on tiles, she said they weigh 5.1 kilo each, so that's alot of weight on the roof.

----------


## dennis4558

We finally got some activity on the site again.



Looks like the 10 cm block have arrived for the south and west walls.





Not sure what this is, I've asked but still haven't gotten a reply.

----------


## Norton

> Not sure what this is, I've asked but still haven't gotten a reply.


Foil for roof I think.

----------


## dennis4558

> Foil for roof I think.


Hi Norton, The reply I got was " to make the roof look nice ", I think that may mean facia board, just a guess for now time will tell.

----------


## dennis4558

More supplies arrived on site





This looks to be the 7.5 cm block for rest of exterior walls and interior walls


Roof tiles also on site





This guy didn't win any prizes for welding 



Another closeup of weld joint and of the beam filled in with concrete, also shows welds painted.
Nephew said they need to do a better job of filling in concrete, his other comment was the welds were poor but OK.

----------


## dennis4558

Here's a brigade I wouldn't want to be in



Tile brigade, moving roof tiles to 2nd floor, wonder how they're going to get them on the roof

----------


## juehoe

I totally agree. The connection of the rebars with the roof us usual but a very bad idea. The connection is very weak.

----------


## dennis4558

> I totally agree. The connection of the rebars with the roof us usual but a very bad idea. The connection is very weak.


Hi Juehoe, My guess is they had to level the roof beams, the posts probably were not level, so by raising the beams on the rebar they could do that. They redid the pouring of concrete below the steel beam with forms around them instead of just trying to push some concrete under, so hopefully everything will be more stable. Here are a couple pictures of that.

----------


## dennis4558

After the complaint about the welds, the builder found one the looks OK, I guess his welder can do horizontal welds but still working on those vertical ones.  :Smile:

----------


## dennis4558

We're also making progress on the top of the roof





Different style of roof from what I've seen in Thailand, but I think it will be OK, Went with a lighter color, the idea was to not absorb as much heat. The builder also commented that he liked this style and color of roof tiles, so you may see more of them on houses in Thailand.

----------


## ootai

Dennis

I believe the solution to the posts should have been to make them longer than needed (rather than shorter) then use the tried and proven method of water level to mark the correct level on all the posts. Once that is done then use a hand diamond saw to cut around the top of the post and a chisel to get it to be flat at the correct level. Then the roof steel should sit on top of that.  The problem as I see it is that solution would require more effort (something Thai's seem to avoid), higher formwork and a bit of forward thinking.

As for the tiles, they remind me of the ones we have on our roof (see picture below). The main thing I notice is we didn't fit the insulation under the tile supports as you have done. I was blissfully unaware back in 2010 of doing the way you have which I see as much better.  After having the tiles there for nearly 10 years the only problem as I see it is they have become stained and need a good cleaning with a high pressure cleaner. Unfortunately our roof is quite steep and I would ask anyone to get up there to clean it unless I was sure they had proper safety gear to prevent them falling off the roof and was confident that they would use that gear.

I know you are probably happy with how things are progressing so far as I was at that stage of our build but what I found was that from here on it gets more difficult to make sure that things are done to a high standard (the devil in the detail).  As Thai's seem very good at constructing the posts and beams and putting roof on but completing the finishing detail gets a little more difficult.

So good luck for the next stage.

----------


## dennis4558

> I believe the solution to the posts should have been to make them longer than needed (rather than shorter) then use the tried and proven method of water level to mark the correct level on all the posts. Once that is done then use a hand diamond saw to cut around the top of the post and a chisel to get it to be flat at the correct level. Then the roof steel should sit on top of that. The problem as I see it is that solution would require more effort (something Thai's seem to avoid), higher formwork and a bit of forward thinking.


Hi Ootai, I would have loved them to use your solution but as we both know that's not the Thai way.

----------


## dennis4558

> The main thing I notice is we didn't fit the insulation under the tile supports as you have done.


That's one thing I was very specific about, in order for the insulation to do it's job there must be a 1" air gap minimum between tiles and insulation sheeting. The builder complained about it but still did it. Wife's nephew (engineer) backed me on that.

----------


## dennis4558

> So good luck for the next stage.


Thanks Ootai, I'll more than likely need it.  :Smile:

----------


## dennis4558

We just had another construction meeting last night to go over final placement, size and count of windows. Also started discussion of doors and sizes, swing etc. 
Couple more pics of roof getting done, builder says should be done by end of the week.





Wall crew should have arrived and will be starting this week.

----------


## dennis4558

Another section of the roof finished, I can still see a crack to the rear on the left side so must still have more to go on south side.

----------


## dennis4558

Getting closer to finishing the roof



View from the back of house, also main roof is capped on the sides, top ridge line doesn't look like it's finished.
There's been a delay on getting wall blocks installed, appears the block crew is still busy harvesting rice, that crew is coming from Surin.

----------


## dennis4558

From these pictures it looks like the roof is finished





Pictures of how the ridge and edge was sealed



Still need to have gable end vents put in, not sure which crew will be doing that

----------


## dennis4558

Looks like I'm getting full sized pictures again, I haven't done anything different at my end.

----------


## juehoe

> Hi Juehoe, My guess is they had to level the roof beams, the posts probably were not level, so by raising the beams on the rebar they could do that. They redid the pouring of concrete below the steel beam with forms around them instead of just trying to push some concrete under, so hopefully everything will be more stable. Here are a couple pictures of that.


The main problem is the weak welding between the rebars and the beam. Adding concrete will not help much. Your pics also show the bad (but usual) weldings. I personally prefer the bolt/screw system with galvanised elements.

The building techniques of your house are common, especially on the countryside. But it is not the best way to build a house. The problem is that most Thai builders don't know what is available on the market. I always recommend to visit a «Home Solution Center» from SCG. They have all the materials. One thing to avoid are the red bricks. It is one of the badest material for walls.

----------


## dennis4558

> I personally prefer the bolt/screw system with galvanised elements.


Hi Juehoe, I seen on someones thread here on TD where they used galvanized truss rafters which would have been nice to use, but what I've learned is that you have to work with your builder and use what they or their crews  are familiar with, other wise you could have more problems, and like the welds they're not great but I doubt it will give me any problems.

----------


## dennis4558

> One thing to avoid are the red bricks. It is one of the badest material for walls.


All of the house block work will be with insulated block 7.5 cm or 10 cm, cinder block will be used for the perimeter wall, for the small building I think they'll be using 7.5 cm insulated block.

----------


## dennis4558

We finally got a start on the wall blocks





I'm not a block layer but it looks like they're doing it right

----------


## dennis4558

Getting off the build somewhat I have a question for all you guys that are familiar with the insulated block and what is the best way to anchor into them. I know the plastic plug anchor is available but I'm not much of a fan of them unless it's in solid concrete. We have tapcon screws here that can be used for this, in solid concrete you have to drill a hole first them run them in, I've used them here in cider block without predrilling and they work great but not sure what is available there.

----------


## Norton

???? (Anchor bolt) - SriMuang : Inspired by LnwShop.com

----------


## Norton

https://globalhouse.co.th/product/detail/2410008750008

----------


## Klondyke

^available in few dimensions in any hardware shop at the corner - for THB...

----------


## mikenot

> We finally got a start on the wall blocks
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not a block layer but it looks like they're doing it right


I am guessing that the bits of rebar on the floor are to tie the walls into the columns? Perhaps not quite as good as the proper metal straps but they will do the job. As long as they have something there, all is good !
 The walls should go up quite quickly withe AAC blocks.

----------


## dennis4558

Thanks Norton & Klondyke, I can see using that style of anchor for hanging something heavy, what about light things?

----------


## dennis4558

> Perhaps not quite as good as the proper metal straps but they will do the job.


Hi Mike, when I watched the Qcon installation video, they said either method was OK, this being the cheaper route.

----------


## dennis4558

Ran into a little snag today, from looking at the pictures I couldn't tell the size of steps, turns out they're 25 cm instead of 28 cm, it took about 3 hours this morning to get it sorted out.
Here's a picture of the plan that shows the steps, if you were the builder what size of step would you have made? or what else might have you done?

----------


## dennis4558

When discussing the problem with the steps, the builder kept saying the finished step will be 28 cm, there is no way you can make a 25 cm step into a 28 cm step without something happening, even I know that and I've only had mechanical drawing in high school, the finished step with the wood tread is supposed to be 30 cm. The only way he could do that is with a 5 cm overhang (stair nose ), suicide steps. This is the drawing I did to show how it could be done, the nephew couldn't figure it out, he said we could do the bottom steps but not the top.



First drawing 


2nd drawing, it's not an ideal situation but it will work, there's still 80 cm to turn the corner, same size as most doors, after this picture the nephew understood and sent this drawing.



I still haven't heard from the builder so not sure if he understands but the nephew can explain it to him.

----------


## ootai

Dennis
I think you are some ways lucky to have your nephew over there as he seems to have understood what you want considering the drawing he sent back. 
When he said he could do the bottom steps but not the top I believe he was worried about encroaching into the landing space but as you say there should still be plenty of room.

As for tying the new concrete into the stairs that are already there what I would ask them to do is to knock the corners off the existing steps as much as possible to create space to lay a continuous layer of concrete which would incorporate the new stairs. I will try and draw a picture and post it later to show what I mean.

I think I said to you in an early post that the stairs were one place they stuffed up in our build and it took a lot of talking to get through what I wanted.
Even with a tread of 28cm the steps are not really wide but should be OK. I just went and measured the steps we have here and they are 30,32 and 34cm treads with rises of 17.5cm.
I can place my whole foot on them, I am size 45 shoe (American size).

Cheers

----------


## ootai

Dennis

I have tried to make a drawing to indicate what I was trying to say in the previous post.

If possible I would ask them to knock the existing steps back to the red line mark shown below.
This would give you new concrete most of the way, the 2 areas circled would be where you might want to be more particular about how the new is tied into the old.
I think the builder would or will be very reluctant to do this work without extra recompense as it would not be an easy task.

Just as an aside how did the original drawings end up with 2 different dimensions for the stair tread, 25cm and 28cm. As you said if you want the final tread to be 28cm that is what the first concrete pour needs to be.

----------


## Klondyke

> Thanks Norton & Klondyke, I can see using that style of anchor for hanging something heavy, what about light things?


Just a simple plastic dowel should be enough for picture from your graduation...

----------


## dennis4558

> Even with a tread of 28cm the steps are not really wide but should be OK. I just went and measured the steps we have here and they are 30,32 and 34cm treads with rises of 17.5cm.
> I can place my whole foot on them, I am size 45 shoe (American size).


Hi Ootai, I'm happy to get the 28 cm step, my foot is 28 cm and with the tread at 30 gives me a little extra, my shoe size is 10 1/2 - 11 that puts me at a 44 size in Euro sizes bigger would have been better but I think it will be OK

----------


## dennis4558

[QUOTE=ootai;4023881]Dennis

I have tried to make a drawing to indicate what I was trying to say in the previous post.

If possible I would ask them to knock the existing steps back to the red line mark shown below.
This would give you new concrete most of the way, the 2 areas circled would be where you might want to be more particular about how the new is tied into the old.
I think the builder would or will be very reluctant to do this work without extra recompense as it would not be an easy task.

Just as an aside how did the original drawings end up with 2 different dimensions for the stair tread, 25cm and 28cm. As you said if you want the final tread to be 28cm that is what the first concrete pour needs to be.





[

Thanks Ootai, I see what you mean on first couple steps, the other steps I think will be OK but the first 2 with it being so small by breaking some concrete out they will tie  into the old step making them more secure, I'll post this picture on our construction page and hopefully the nephew will understand. I really appreciate the input, Thanks again

----------


## dennis4558

> Just a simple plastic dowel should be enough for picture from your graduation...


Hi Klondyke, or picture of old GF  :sexy: 
They will probably hold better in insulated block, I just know at her sisters house where they used plastic anchors to hold towel bars etc. I had to replace several because they came loose, her house has cinder block. I had to put epoxy in the holes then inserted a new anchor, let it cure then reinstalled. I'm not sure if there's a better way but it seemed to work.

----------


## dennis4558

Looks like it's going to be another delay, our block crew went back to harvesting rice, hope to see them by the weekend or start of next week.

----------


## ootai

Dennis
I thought I should tell you that I have the same blocks as you for our walls, though we only used 7.5cm everywhere and if I want to hang something that is not too heavy I just use concrete nails and hammer them into the block.
If you want to hang something heavier then I would use the method you described above i.e. put some glue/epoxy into the hole when you first install the anchor don't wait to have to due it later.

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## dennis4558

Ootai, I think you're right, concrete nails will work good for small items.
When talking to the nephew about stairs (if google translated right) he thinks steel into the face of risers should be enough, the other think that may concern me is by breaking some of the concrete on the steps is that it's at the narrowest point and could weaken main structure of steps.

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## dennis4558

More issues with the steps, block crew didn't get the information at to how they were to look



They started putting up a wall to close in the steps, they had to take it down and start over



The wall the way it is supposed to be



This is the picture given to builder for reference

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## dennis4558

Another problem noticed by daughter is there is a gap between steps



One of the block crew was smart enough to come up with a solution



If you look close you can see caulk lines on the floor, what they will have to do is place the first wall to the right of stairs then another wall to fill in the space, cutting them to the same as steps, then the final wall can be put in up to and under the upper flight of stairs to achieve the look we want. Hope I explained that right for everyone to understand. The lower flight of stairs will be wider because of it but I doubt anyone will notice when finished.

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## ootai

Dennis
Slowly but surely you are getting there. How is your builder handling all this "interference". Is he interpreting it as criticism of his work or is he being accommodating to the requests for the rework. You are going to have to rely heavily on your onsite observers to watch everything to get the detail right.

I don't believe that they do it deliberately "wrong" they just do it the way they always have which is usually the quick and easy way.
Keep posting I enjoy seeing your updates.

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## juehoe

> Hi Juehoe, I seen on someones thread here on TD where they used galvanized truss rafters which would have been nice to use, but what I've learned is that you have to work with your builder and use what they or their crews  are familiar with, other wise you could have more problems, and like the welds they're not great but I doubt it will give me any problems.


I understand this. But have you tried to convince the builder to change? I wound't accept a builder who is not willing to use the materials and methods I want. A friend of mine had a similar situation. He insisted and said that he would look for another builder. The builder than accepted and was even thankful to get the opportunity to lean something new...

But it could be not easy to find another builder in your area.

----------


## dennis4558

We've got some block action taking place



View from the front of the house



Looking into front bedroom lower level



View looking past bathroom toward kitchen, have a problem here, closest wall on the right is suppose to have a window, and farthest wall on the right is not, it was a change from the original plans talked about at one of the meetings, builder seems to forget to tell his workers of any changes.

----------


## dennis4558

I got this wrong, this is the back bedroom 1st floor



This is picture of front bedroom 1st floor

----------


## dennis4558

They got a few more block laid but now back at the rice farms



Here they closed in wall where they were going to put a window where one shouldn't have been but still haven't cut in the window in the right place which is the closest wall on the right.



Still no wall between stairs.



A look into front bedroom more block to be laid above windows.



The back of the house, kitchen on the left, back bedroom on the left, window in bedroom shouldn't be there, but easy fix just fill it in.



Looking into back bedroom, waiting on 10 cm block to do south wall.



Starting on plumbing.



No P-trap on shower drain on left, A (builder) said it would be put in.

----------


## dennis4558

I think this is wood for door frames

----------


## dennis4558

Block crew is back at it getting things finished up on first floor, still no 10 cm block though.



Hole closed in on back bedroom where they were trying to add a window.



Looking through kitchen, window being put in dining area where they were closing it in.





Walls being closed in above windows in front bedroom 1st floor, couple new helpers supervising and studying the plans.





Working on steps to get them extended and filling in wall between.

----------


## dennis4558

More block work progress



First floor bathroom getting done, but didn't put in window, already 2 rows of block too high.



More progress on the step wall



Only problem with step wall is it's either too long or too short, too long because it's not a square corner with front wall going under steps, too short because it doesn't go out to end of steps, I'd like a shorter wall but it might create a problem with hole at the top, not sure how ceiling they would close that and still get ceiling in to look good.
I told daughter to talk to block installer to get their opinion. 




Here if you zoom and look close you can see how steps will be extended to the required 28 cm

----------


## dennis4558

Starting to put up walls on 2nd floor



Looking toward front of house



Northwest side of house



Front bedroom block work done just needs door frame installed and block work around it.

----------


## dennis4558

A update on stairs wall, they're going to peg block with rebar then form and pour concrete to finish, here's a drawing daughter sent



White will be wall extension, blue and black is wall and door way to storage under steps



They poured header in wall before cutting in window, now they have concrete and block to cut to install window in bathroom, I guess that's job security  :Smile: 



Front bedroom 2nd floor starting to take shape



Looking toward front on 2nd floor

----------


## Klondyke

Didn't you consider savings by use of cheap cinder blocks for the many walls inside?

----------


## dennis4558

> Didn't you consider savings by use of cheap cinder blocks for the many walls inside?


Hi Klondyke, That was left up to the builder when it was bid, we only spec'd the outer walls to be insulated block, I'm thinking there isn't much difference when figuring in the labor on the cinder blocks, I think the insulated block are easier to work with.

----------


## dennis4558

Looks like door frames have been varnished / lacquered, ready to be installed

----------


## Klondyke

> figuring in the labor on the cinder blocks, I think the insulated block are easier to work with.


Same with both. But the blocks and the mortar cost some 5x more...(included in the "mau")

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## dennis4558

> Same with both. But the blocks and the mortar cost some 5x more...(included in the "mau")


Klondyke, Too late in the game to change things now, but since most of the block is on bedroom walls which will have AC units it may help with maintaining temps in them.

----------


## dennis4558

Little more work done on 2nd floor



Looks like they stopped this wall in the right place for bathroom window



Wall beside stairway, not sure if it's stopping here or gong to the ceiling, I thought we were going to have a railing. 





We've got 1 door frame in place on 1st floor front bedroom

----------


## Thai Dhupp

> Looks like door frames have been varnished / lacquered, ready to be installed


Build coming along nicely now, *Dennis*, glad you found solutions to those 'hiccups'!

I am now at the stage of fitting the *termite control* to zone 3.

What is the wood you are using for the door frames? Maybe you told before and if so, sorry to ask again.

It looks good and I am going to use something similar for the *face frame* after I have built my *kitchen*. Is it teak?

----------


## Klondyke

> Klondyke, Too late in the game to change things now, but since most of the block is on bedroom walls which will have AC units it may help with maintaining temps in them.


OK, if it is on outer walls and if they are more insulating than a single cinder wall. If more insulating than a double cinder wall with cavity?

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## dennis4558

> If more insulating than a double cinder wall with cavity?


 :Smile:  I guess you would have to research someone that's done a test on that, as for myself I wouldn't know. I'm hoping the insulated block are easier and better to mount too, I'm just familiar with cider block being crap to mount to.

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## dennis4558

> Is it teak?


Hi TD, good to hear your project is moving forward, yes it is teak, we wanted a lighter shade of teak, don't like the dark colored teak woods, and we're going with a clear varnish, we didn't want to hide the natural wood graining. Now to keep things going we need to get the crews finished with their rice harvest, they left again for a couple days. Builder thinks walls should all be finished by middle of Dec.

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## Klondyke

> I'm just familiar with cider block being crap to mount to.


In contrast to such prejudices I had realized few such constructions, also swimming pool. One can see around Thailand almost all perimeter walls are built by such crap, still standing straight (and still) after many years.  If collapsing due to a soft foundation (or risen by roots of a huge tree), then in its whole entity and length...

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## fishlocker

Nice report as per the relaying of drawings. As for myself, 
I have now to retro fit the fish crib to place the stairs to the upper elevation  to the east to clear the dance hall "what I call it based on nothing really.

I find it strange how the east west north south lines play in house layout pertaining to stairs and bed room layout.

----------


## fishlocker

BTW, Best of luck with it.

the fish

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## fishlocker

Nice job, Thanks.

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## dennis4558

> I find it strange how the east west north south lines play in house layout pertaining to stairs and bed room layout.


Thanks Fish, It all has to do with customs/superstitions, there's a superstition for just about every aspect of the build, and to keep peace you just have to work around it all.

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## dennis4558

> still standing straight (and still) after many years


Klondyke, I'm not say the wall aren't sturdy, just saying cinder block isn't the most dense material to mount to.

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## dennis4558

Works are back on site, have a few poor pictures to share



1st floor front bedroom door frame filled in



Center wall for stairs being extended

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## NamPikToot

Denis, i get posters points about aerated blocks but i agree with you ref their use internally, i'll put them throughout when i build to retain/insulate when using aircon. The cost is higher but its marginal in overall terms.

On the build well done to date and it must be hard doing it from a distance and waiting for updates but from what i've read you have been reasonably lucky.

Shout out to Norts for helping out too, he's a gent.

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## dennis4558

Added another door frame in 1st floor back bedroom



Daughter's going to the house tomorrow so should have better pictures of progress so far

----------


## dennis4558

> On the build well done to date and it must be hard doing it from a distance and waiting for updates but from what I've read you have been reasonably lucky.


Thanks NPT, You're right building from afar is a headache, we seem to catch mistakes after they've been made where if I was on site I could catch them before they happen and also talk to the workers so things get done right the first time, I know it's got to be frustrating for them too to have to redo things.

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## NamPikToot

> we seem to catch mistakes after they've been made .


But nothing catastrophic so i think you and the on-site team have done really well. I've not built properly despite having the opportunity for many years because i can't trust the result, i'm too much of a picky bastard and always overspec everything i do. I've plans for a round house so no one can cut corners.

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## dennis4558

> I've plans for a round house so no one can cut corners.


Good one  :smiley laughing: 

And thanks again

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## NamPikToot

Dennis it occurs to me and probably you too that really when assessing your progress and cataloguing diversions from plan that there are two types; 1) i can live with it and change/fix it later without too much angst 2) catastrophic which so alters the plan it has to be fixed immediately. 

Looks like you've filtered 2 out which is much as you can hope for in PMing from afar.

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## naptownmike

Looking great. 
Try not to be discouraged by the occasional screw up.
 We had a few luckily it wasn't too much $$ to fix stuff before it got to far along.

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## dennis4558

> Looks like you've filtered 2 out which is much as you can hope for in PMing from afar.


You're right NPT, so far it's been a 2, they've been really good about fixing mistakes and making minor changes to the plan. No major mistakes.

----------


## dennis4558

Things are moving alone with the block work



1st floor back bedroom closed in (except outside wall still waiting on 10 cm block) and door frame in 





Couple pics that show a little better how steps will be extended



Center stairway wall extended to same distance as bottom step



1st floor bathroom ready for floor concrete, I didn't see picture of p-trap installed by I was assured by main worker that it's there. 2nd floor p-trap for shower and sink is going to be installed on outside of house. That'll be harder to clean out if plugged unless they install some kind of access. Hope to get pictures of that so I know where it's at for future reference.

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## dennis4558

A couple things about the above bathroom picture, they cut the wall to lower the window now I'll be able to reach it and the hot and cold water to the shower at the present is coming up the same place as drain so I would think more fittings need to be installed to get that into the wall, maybe they'll do that after the floor is poured and put it over under the tile.

----------


## dennis4558

More progress on  the bathrooms



1st floor bathroom floor being poured



1st floor bath floor finished, this will be a wet bath, shower area lower than rest of bath, and rest of bath lower than rest of house floor



Openings for window and fan, opening for fan looks like it would be above ceiling but maybe it's the angle of the photo



A look inside 2nd floor bath, daughter complained it wasn't big enough, I told her it's not for her to have a party inside, it's just to do your thing and get out

----------


## dennis4558

Other 2nd floor completed work



Wood frames for mounting windows



Little more block work done on 2nd floor front bedroom



View from back to front on 2nd floor, 10 cm block are supposed to arrive this week



Shot of plumbing from the outside of 2nd floor bath with p-trap installed

----------


## dennis4558

Electrician is on site and is cutting holes







On this last one they are going to have to change it, don't want outlet and switches above each other

----------


## dennis4558

10 cm blocks have finally arrived, story has it our builders supplier/distributor hadn't paid his bill to the block manufacturer so they were holding up shipment





Workers had also run out of 7.5 cm block but those are on site also, so progress is being made



Door frames for 2nd floor bathroom and front bedroom door frames are in and walls topped off



Also installing door frame for inside kitchen



Electrician's back at it too roughing in locations, he complaining about number of outlets/power points required, to make him happier we added 4 more  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

----------


## dennis4558

10 cm walls are going up






South and west walls 2nd floor

----------


## baldrick

looking at your stairs - is the last step at the top higher than the rest ?

and walling in the stairs cause issues when manoeuvring mattresses upstairs

though I have watched in dismay as a good innerspring mattress was folded in half and roped to take it up stairs

----------


## dennis4558

> is the last step at the top higher than the rest


Hi Baldrick, I hope once they're finished they'll all be the same or I'll be breaking my neck going up, going down usually doesn't bother me but going up I'll trip, nothing worse than steps that don't have the same size risers.

----------


## dennis4558

> walling in the stairs cause issues when manoeuvring mattresses upstairs


We will have an open stairwell, only a handrail to maneuver around when taking things up or down. This is an example of what it's supposed to look like when finished.

----------


## dennis4558

Not much progress to report, daughters phone went dead after one picture.   :Smile: 



2nd floor west bedroom, another wall goes in for walk-in closet

----------


## dennis4558

Here's a view we haven't seen for a while



South side to the west



South side to the east





More 2nd floor pics, first to the back or west and second to the front or east, he says he will be finished blocking and rendering the outside by the weekend, I'll be surprised if they are. The inside the electrician will need to finish before that can be rendered.

----------


## David48atTD

Great progress being made and thanks for the update

----------


## dennis4558

> Great progress being made and thanks for the update


Thanks David, and thanks for stopping by.

----------


## dennis4558

2nd floor living room getting close to being finished





West bedroom, south wall done



1st floor back bedroom



1st floor living room, I don't think they will get the south wall finished by the end of this weekend.

----------


## fishlocker

Nice pics. Good luck with the build. 
Our place survived the first flooding in ten years. I hope it floods more or at least the river maintains a reasonable level. It's been sketchy as of late.

Again, best of luck.

----------


## dennis4558

Another bit of news, wife and owners of property with old house have agreed on a selling price, final terms to be hashed out when we get there in about 3 weeks. That will make the perimeter fence a bit easier because south side has a two story townhouse so won't need a fence there.

----------


## dennis4558

> Nice pics. Good luck with the build. 
> Our place survived the first flooding in ten years. I hope it floods more or at least the river maintains a reasonable level. It's been sketchy as of late.
> 
> Again, best of luck.


Thanks Fishlocker, did you get any water close to your house?

----------


## ootai

Dennis
Looks like things are moving along OK. Good news on the house/block next door, I assume you will knock the old house down.
I couldn't live with a neighbour that close to me.

Just a question, I see that the outside wall/s on the staircase have not been bricked in yet. Are you going to or are you planning on windows for that area?

Keep posting I look forward to your updates.

----------


## dennis4558

> Looks like things are moving along OK. Good news on the house/block next door, I assume you will knock the old house down.
> I couldn't live with a neighbour that close to me.


Hi Ootai, not sure what we'll do with the old house, either we tear in down or I convert it into a workshop for myself, definitely not a house to live in, my luck more family would move in. I waiting to take another look at it before we decide, because of the level if we don't tear it down we will have to add fill tear off the termite infested roof, add to the walls and put up new roof. Won't be this year maybe next years project.

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## dennis4558

[QUOTE=ootai;4038636]I see that the outside wall/s on the staircase have not been bricked in yet. Are you going to or are you planning on windows for that area?[/QUOTE

Maybe this picture will answer your question



Starting to block in for window on stairs landing, south living room wall finished still have front / east wall to start on, most of it will be sliding door.



Working on wall for walk -in closet. No pictures of 1st floor so no idea what going on there. The only other thing she said was electrician cut more holes in the walls but no pictures.

----------


## Klondyke

The partition wall: I would be afraid to keep it so for few days without a support - in case a strong draft blows through the house... (or a butterfly flew by)

----------


## dennis4558

> The partition wall: I would be afraid to keep it so for few days without a support - in case a strong draft blows through the house... (or a butterfly flew by)


I think you're right Klondike, talked to the daughter this morning and she was running around trying to find a door and frame for her walk-in closet, she should have had that ready but that's the way she is,waits until the last minute to get things done. She wanted a hidden door that looked like a shelf don't know if she found one.

----------


## dennis4558



----------


## dennis4558

Starting on outdoor Thai kitchen



I would think they would have to put roof on before walls can be finished



A look from front to back on south side, only a couple places to close up



Still waiting on size of kitchen window, we told daughter several times what to do but she keeps confusing the issue, we wanted a window about 70 cm wide that we can open, if window shop can't provide that she was told to tell them to make unopenable window with same dementions for over kitchen sink

----------


## dennis4558

Merry Christmas everyone, 

A fair amount of work has been done while we've been busy with Christmas




Front bedroom 1st floor ready to be rendered



And here it is rendered



2nd floor living room wall done and window on stair landing



Front sliding door framed out and wall finished

----------


## dennis4558

2nd floor back bedroom wall for wall-in closet and door frame finished



Window in kitchen ready to be poured but wrong size, hopefully they don't pour before that is corrected, the height is right but not the width, that's supposed to be 70 cm



Scaffolding going up on north side to do rendering



And also on the south side

----------


## dennis4558

We're on hold again, the electricians wife had a baby so he's off bonding, should be back on site again tomorrow and things can get moving again, a little over a week and we'll be on our way over there to get a look ourselves and maybe get my hands dirty.

----------


## dennis4558

Update on Thai kitchen



Looks like they are starting on roof for Thai kitchen, notice steel beam on scaffolding 



Daughter sent walk through of house but has music playing in back ground so will have to edit it out before I can post.

----------


## dennis4558

I have an issue someone may be able to answer for me, daughter and sister have been commenting about water shortage recently, they have to wait several hours to half a day to be able to get water at sisters house. My concern is the water pump, does it have protection built-in or do I have to add something to keep it from burning out if I run out of water in water tank?

----------


## dennis4558

Here's link to 2nd floor walk through

----------


## Klondyke

> if I run out of water in water tank?


For that case (it had happened me few times - running few hours and pulling the dirt from the very bottom) I have installed a minimum level swimmer interrupting the power to the power outlet for the automatic pump (Mitsubishi or similar).

----------


## David48atTD

Need to change the permissions on the YouTube ...

----------


## dennis4558

> I have installed a minimum level swimmer interrupting the power to the power outlet for the automatic pump


Hi Klondyke, Thanks for the info, I was thinking the same, do you have a picture of what that would look like, I know what to look for over here but not sure what they have over there.

----------


## dennis4558

> Need to change the permissions on the YouTube ...


Hi David, I think you may have tried to view it before YouTube released it, I had several people try today and they said they were able to see it. If you still have a problem let me know because it is set for public viewing.

----------


## dennis4558

More rendering being done, I think as soon as the electrician finishes a room they go to work rendering



2nd floor bedroom in front, they did cover an electrical outlet which they'll have to find, if you look on top you can see conduit come out but no box below



View out to the street from 2nd floor living room

----------


## Norton

Are you in Roi Et now. Have sent you my phone. Give me a ring.

----------


## Klondyke

> Hi Klondyke, Thanks for the info, I was thinking the same, do you have a picture of what that would look like, I know what to look for over here but not sure what they have over there.


Here on the picture on the left hand side - the orange thing - in another function, also supervising the minimum level interrupting the pump from sucking air. 



One of wires feeding the power outlet of your automatic pump should be wired through this box (in series) where the contact will open - switch off - at minimum level.

The swimmer switch can be bought at any village hardware shop around the corner - some have a name RADAR.

----------


## dennis4558

> Are you in Roi Et now. Have sent you my phone. Give me a ring.


Hi Norton, nope not there yet, be about the 9th or 10th before we get to RoiEt, I still have your number from when I was there last year I give you a call when we get there.

----------


## dennis4558

Thanks Klondyke , you've given me some ideas, wiring it is no problem, I just didn't know of the type of switch that would be available, a float switch like what's used on a sump pump would work too if available there, that way when the water gets low enough it would break the power to the pump and would have to fill a fair amount before allowing it to start again, depends on how the float switch is tied or fastened don't want the pump to be turning on and off when only a small amount of water goes into the tank



Something like this

----------


## Klondyke

^Yes, this kind of switch is also available at the hardware shops around the corner. I have had them few, not so easy to adjust the height in a small range.  Also not very reliable after some time if the contacts inside operated by a small ball. Some have a tube of mercury connecting the contacts, that's better.

----------


## dennis4558

> Some have a tube of mercury connecting the contacts, that's better.


Thanks Klondyke, good to know

----------


## dennis4558

Updated video of 1st and 2nd floor, may not be available to view for a couple hours

----------


## ootai

> ^Yes, this kind of switch is also available at the hardware shops around the corner. I have had them few, not so easy to adjust the height in a small range.  Also not very reliable after some time if the contacts inside operated by a small ball. Some have a tube of mercury connecting the contacts, that's better.



Dennis
I don't know if you are still looking for this stuff but I finally remembered to take a couple of pictures of the floating switches we use here.


In this picture you can see the IBC tanks we set up. There are 6 that are all connected together and used for irrigating cassava. The pump for the cassava is a Honda pump and is not shown as it is on the other side of the tanks. The pump shown is an electric Mitsubishi and is used for the garden. The water comes from a submersible pump in a 60m bore located about 30m away from the tanks.


These are the floating switches, they are set so that when we start the irrigation pump and the water drops down to the level of the bottom float it turns on the submersible.
When we are refilling the tanks the top switch turns off the submersible. They are just wired straight into the switch power supply (Thai style).

Looks like the house has taken shape now comes the hard part i.e. the detailed finishing. I am sure you will appreciate the place much more now you have control over the old house next door.

----------


## dennis4558

Hi Ootai, I think that arrangement will work only I'll have to wire the contacts the opposite of what you have, I'll want a disconnect when the water gets too low
You're right it's going to be a lot easier watching the finishing of the house being on site, and thanks for the pictures that will make it a lot easier to explain if the electrician does the wiring if he doesn't I can do it myself and the pictures will help getting the right parts

----------


## Norton

> daughter and sister have been commenting about water shortage recently,


Yep. Drought and flooding every few years. Welcome to Roi Et city.  :Smile: 
Don't have a prob out in the sticks.

----------


## ootai

> Hi Ootai, I think that arrangement will work only I'll have to wire the contacts the opposite of what you have, I'll want a disconnect when the water gets too low
> You're right it's going to be a lot easier watching the finishing of the house being on site, and thanks for the pictures that will make it a lot easier to explain if the electrician does the wiring if he doesn't I can do it myself and the pictures will help getting the right parts


Dennis if you need better pictures or more info I can try and get it for you.

----------


## dennis4558

Nice seeing you again Norton, will be in touch to pick your brain about sources for different materials in the area and have another beer

----------


## dennis4558

Basically the only thing happening on site is rendering



4th bedroom upstairs

----------


## Norton

> Nice seeing you again Norton, will be in touch to pick your brain about sources for different materials in the area and have another beer


Come out to house for visit. Always around. Just give me a ring. House has free beer and better food than all Roiet eateries.  :Smile:

----------


## dennis4558

> Come out to house for visit. Always around. Just give me a ring. House has free beer and better food than all Roiet eateries.


Thanks Norton, will take you up on the offer but might be a few days because wife picked up a cold from the grand nephew and don't want to spread it around

Also another note is that the electricians were on site and moving along fairly fast, trying to stay ahead of the rendering

----------


## dennis4558

Shot of the electrician cutting the wall to get conduits from first to second floor

----------


## dennis4558

Rendering almost finished on inside walls



Bedroom 4 all power boxes installed, still need to render wall between bedroom and walk in closet



Living room 2nd floor



Wires pulled into some of the boxes, I'm assuming green is ground but not sure which is hot and neutral for blue and brown



Front of house 2nd floor rendering finished

----------


## dennis4558

Here's a video walk through I did yesterday

----------


## NamPikToot

Coming along Denis, it always seems the build slows after the concrete beams and blocks go in.

----------


## ChalkyDee

Interesting, thanks for sharing.

----------


## ootai

Dennis
Thanks for sharing the video, I hope you are happy with what you are seeing now that you are there on site.
I hope not interferring too much.

Just a point to note, in the video at about the 1:25 mark you walk into the ground floor bathroom and I can see light coming through between the Q-con blocks.
They must have not put any grout/cement in there when laying the blocks.
I know it will be rendered but the render doesn't hold the wall up.

Good Luck for the rest of the build.

----------


## Klondyke

> Just a point to note, in the video at about the 1:25 mark you walk into the ground floor bathroom and I can see light coming through between the Q-con blocks.
> They must have not put any grout/cement in there when laying the blocks.
> I know it will be rendered but the render doesn't hold the wall up.


That's always the main arguments for Q-con blocks as opposed to the "old-fashion" cinder blocks: That the connecting mortar and the thin rendering - made by the special (not so cheap) mixture - will not be needed so much (as at the cinder blocks), thus a huge saving compensating the much higher cost (4 - 6 times), shortening the working time as well.

Then, in a case of an extensive saving on the mortar, I am afraid - when a well aimed facer goes wrong and the aimed head of the husband swerves aside - at the end of the day the head of the house will have to call a village brick layer to fix the hole in the wall.

----------


## dennis4558

> Dennis
> Thanks for sharing the video, I hope you are happy with what you are seeing now that you are there on site.
> I hope not interferring too much.
> 
> Just a point to note, in the video at about the 1:25 mark you walk into the ground floor bathroom and I can see light coming through between the Q-con blocks.
> They must have not put any grout/cement in there when laying the blocks.
> I know it will be rendered but the render doesn't hold the wall up.
> 
> Good Luck for the rest of the build.


Hi Ootai Thanks, I do my morning walk through to see what they'll be working on for the day, so far I have caught a couple mistakes before they happened. I don't stay too long because I don't want someone handing me a trowel because I wouldn't know what to do with it.  :Smile:  I seen the the cracks in the bathroom but with all the rendering they put on I doubt it will be a problem, there's bigger holes where they blow out the back side on power outlets then fill them in and the walls don't have much structural support mostly there to keep the heat and bugs out  :Smile:

----------


## dennis4558

> when a well aimed facer goes wrong and the aimed head of the husband swerves aside - at the end of the day the head of the house will have to call a village brick layer to fix the hole in the wall.


In that case I hope it's not my head being aimed at  :smiley laughing:  but if there was a hole it doesn't seem to be much of a deal to patch it up being no structural support they made several change to our wall already, maybe I don't want to lean against the wall though  :Smile:

----------


## dennis4558

> Interesting, thanks for sharing.


No problem CD, it's a bit of a challenge not having my desktop computer but I'll do the best I can with my phone and tablet

----------


## dennis4558

Walls above steps have been rendered



Steps are being extended today

----------


## dennis4558

Stopped by site this evening and step extensions completed, except for a couple after putting the tape to them that need minor modifications

----------


## dennis4558

Some electrical work was also done today





Just a couple of pics of how they're doing it, most of the work done is on 2nd floor, first and second floor have all the wires pulled into the outlet boxes and some of the switch boxes

----------


## dennis4558

The ceiling crew has also arrived, we found a room to rent close to site for them, wife just came home and said she seen them sitting outside of room drinking, i'm guessing getting primed for there start tomorrow. It's getting a little crowded at construction site with 3 crews there already

----------


## dennis4558

Ceiling on second floor is almost done just a small area by steps

----------


## dennis4558

The steps are finished but when I checked them 1 step is 1" higher than the rest that has to be fixed, the rest of the steps were within 1/4" so I let them pass but the 1" will have to be fixed

----------


## dennis4558

Inside ceilings about done cement sealer being put on inside and out



Two recessed ceilings in 1st floor living room




Soffit metal installed, he tried to pull a quick one and not put up venting in the soffits, I seen the solid sheets setting in the house and questioned him about it, he said it was for the soffits, I told him they needed to be vented he acted like he forgot  :smiley laughing:  he kills me with his short memory that's his usual excuse

----------


## dennis4558

Last wall getting closed in, front living room with window

 you

Door for Thai kitchen, this door's location has been changed at least 3 times by wife and daughter



Lights for stairs

----------


## dennis4558

Just realized that the video 3 that I had posted didn't upload the full video so I'm posting again, I'll probably get another one posted this week after the painting.

----------


## dennis4558

Rollup door framed in



Pictures of progress on small building

----------


## dennis4558

Soffits done just need some trim and paint







Didn't forget bug screen

----------


## dennis4558

Roof on small building and Thai kitchen should be completed today

----------


## dennis4558

Work also being done in 2nd floor bathroom

----------


## dennis4558

They've also started on inside kitchen counters





Don't see hole for induction stove

----------


## ootai

Hey Dennis things are moving along hope you are happy so far.
Seeing them making the concrete benches in the kitchen reminded me of what happened when we built.
They made the concrete benches and left a hole for the sink to go in. Prior to the concrete being put in i asked them if they had checked that the sink would fit into the hole.
Of course they looked at me like I was stupid but anyway after the concrete had set I tried to put the sink into the hole and lo and behold it wouldn't fit.

So just check it before they pour the concrete if you know the sink size.

----------


## dennis4558

Hi Ootai, yep the builder asked which sink we were getting, we gave him the model number, so if it's wrong it's his problem  :Smile:

----------


## dennis4558

They got the sheets for the roof which they were short so now that's finished



More progress on the kitchen counters





But they have an extra hole on the right, will need to check on that when they show up

----------


## dennis4558

Marking walls this morning, getting ready to install floor tile

----------


## Norton

> More progress on the kitchen counters


Quite a different approach than my kitchen. I went with premade cabinents. No block or cement at all.

----------


## dennis4558

Hi Norton, we looked at prebuilt but because of our limited space we couldn't get a good fit and the cost was a lot more

----------


## dennis4558

Tile on 2nd floor living room is about finished





Just above the steps

----------


## David48atTD

^  Nice tiles ... bet there's a few dollars in that lot.

----------


## dennis4558

Hi David, actually the tiles weren't that expensive, about 180 B sq. meter, we waited for a good sale before we bought, we had to store for a while but it was worth it, we're lucky SIL lives close

----------


## dennis4558

Don't know if you can see it but the tiles are laid in a staggered pattern, tile layer wasn't very happy about it but he did a nice job

----------


## dennis4558

Carport deck beams have been poured



Thai kitchen counters tops are poured



Three walls on small building have been rendered

----------


## dennis4558

Tile is finished in 2nd floor bathroom



Couple of pics of deck being done













For not having a power towel they did pretty good, I started drinking and forgot to take a picture of finished product  :Smile:

----------


## dennis4558

The wife and daughter are not happy with one of the paint colors on the outside so not sure what's going to happen there

----------


## dennis4558

Waiting for them to do final paint job on 2nd floor then I'll do a video walk through

----------


## David48atTD

WOW ... bare feet on concrete ... not good long term for the 'tradesman'.



https://teakdoor.com/construction-in...ml#post4058157 (Snowbird house build in LOS)

----------


## dennis4558

> bare feet on concret


 to,

Hi David, there's always a brave one or should I say dumb one  :Smile: ,  most were wearing rubber boots and some had gloves on

----------


## dennis4558

They brought in a small backhoe to do some leveling for the walls and dig holes for septic tanks

----------


## dennis4558

Holes dug for south wall





Next day pole rebar is in and poured







Bucket brigade

----------


## dennis4558

Today setting up forms for lower beams, I was a bit surprised that they are setting poles 2 meters apart most I've seen are at 2.5 some even at 3

----------


## dennis4558

Got another screwup that needs to be fixed, he's got the toilet drain at 50 cm I didn't say anything before because I thought they were going to put a short wall for water lines but when they put up the wall tile I knew something was wrong

----------


## Klondyke

^In case you have missed the advice: click twice on the downloaded picture, then on the pop-up menu check the "full size"...

----------


## dennis4558

Thanks Klondyke, I'll try it, I'm loading everything with my phone so it's been a pain

----------


## dennis4558

Forms for post

----------


## dennis4558

Klondyke, wasn't able to get a pop-up menu with my phone

----------


## Klondyke

^Perhaps you can try another trick: 
make preview of your post before submitting, open your thumbnail into the large scale, the large scale to copy and paste it in the preview instead of the small thumbnail, then submit.

----------


## dennis4558

> ^Perhaps you can try another trick: 
> make preview of your post before submitting, open your thumbnail into the large scale, the large scale to copy and paste it in the preview instead of the small thumbnail, then submit.


I'll give it a try
Thanks Klondyke

----------


## dennis4558

Some fill dirt going in on the north side for wall

----------


## dennis4558

Klondyke, I don't get a thumb nail of photo only file name

----------


## Klondyke

^I mean the small photo you have produced.  When right click on that (not sure how to do by phone) the popup menu give you the choice to copy and paste it in-lieu of the small photo and submit it.

----------


## Klondyke



----------


## dennis4558

More progress on the north wall





Kitchen counter getting close just needs granite



Steps finally got fixed





Drain for the deck, I wanted to bet him the water wouldn't go to the drain, he wouldn't bet just said will fix

----------


## dennis4558

> ^I mean the small photo you have produced.  When right click on that (not sure how to do by phone) the popup menu give you the choice to copy and paste it in-lieu of the small photo and submit it.


Klondyke, I figured out how to right click with my phone but copy and paste are not one of the options, can only share, open in new tab and download

----------


## dennis4558

Doors still waiting to be installed

----------


## dennis4558

Power pole in

----------


## dennis4558

Finally did walk through this morning

----------


## dennis4558

Heading back to the States so may be a bit before I can post again

----------


## ootai

Dennis
Pity you have to go "home" just when it is starting to really look and feel like a house.
Just a couple of questions after watching the video, which was really good so thanks for that.
What sort of showers are you going to install?
Looks like you got the width of the stairs sorted.
I really liked the way you have put a door on the opposite side to the kitchen so that you don't waste the space  in the corner of the cabinets.
I also really like your deck although I might not be able to enjoy it fully as I get dizzy looking over an edge that is above 2m high.

Lastly I seem to remember you saying that you had managed to purchase the old house on the south side of your house is that correct?
If it is does the land attached to that house go the full length of your land? I ask because it looks like opposite your "small" building at the back there is a "cul de sac" would butt up to that land which would give you access to the back of your land. If this is true then you might want to get them to put a gate in your south wall.

Looking good.

----------


## Mozzbie47

Great Video mate, how I envy you to have your own home in Thailand. I must mention, the plastic protective film on the windows, they like to have it there while they paint. But from my experience, if left in the sun for to long the film is almost impossible to remove. 
I look forward to seeing update photos, great job.  Where is the build, I would like to look at the area on Google Earth, if thats OK.

----------


## dennis4558

> Dennis
> Pity you have to go "home" just when it is starting to really look and feel like a house.
> Just a couple of questions after watching the video, which was really good so thanks for that.
> What sort of showers are you going to install?
> Looks like you got the width of the stairs sorted.
> I really liked the way you have put a door on the opposite side to the kitchen so that you don't waste the space  in the corner of the cabinets.
> I also really like your deck although I might not be able to enjoy it fully as I get dizzy looking over an edge that is above 2m high.
> 
> Lastly I seem to remember you saying that you had managed to purchase the old house on the south side of your house is that correct?
> ...


Hi Ootai, Thanks, it was a bummer having to leave before it was finished but it was far enough where we got the feel of how it will be, we are mostly satisfied with the outcome. 
The land next to us we thought we were going to buy is off again, couldn't agree with the owner on how we wanted to pay for it, mainly because we still aren't finished with our house and didn't want to invest our available money in the property until our house is finished. And yes the lot runs parallel with ours and the back side has access to another street going into it, that's why we want it gives us double access and that side doesn't have much traffic like the front of our house. We'll let them sit on it for a while now they think it's worth a fortune. If we get it we would add a gate back there.
Daughter wanted rain showers so that's what's going in, a glass divider also going in between the shower and stool.
Yep the stairs turned out nice, didn't get to see them finished, one step has a different kind of wood so will have to see how it looks after finished. They're supposed to get a clear coat of lacquer, not like the door which were supposed to get the same but got stained first, wife is still going to war with builder about that it's in writing that doors were to be clear coated, we got a bill for extra's so we'll see what happen there. The other thing that was done wrong that they did a Thai fix was the toilet drains, they had them 50 cm from the wall instead of 30 cm. I have a picture of how they fixed it. More comments when I post that picture. 
Kitchen space was limited so had to make the most of it.

----------


## dennis4558

> Great Video mate, how I envy you to have your own home in Thailand. I must mention, the plastic protective film on the windows, they like to have it there while they paint. But from my experience, if left in the sun for to long the film is almost impossible to remove. 
> I look forward to seeing update photos, great job.  Where is the build, I would like to look at the area on Google Earth, if thats OK.


Thanks Mozzbie, the window crew has finished so I hope they removed the plastic film.

----------


## dennis4558

Time to get some more pictures posted, I'll start on the steps, finally got them right after the 3rd attempt



We decided to paint the complete steps the tan color, I think it goes with the wood steps better than the grey



They finally got it right with the clear coat.



Daughter should have moved a bit to the left to get both stairs but I guess we have to take what we get, I really liked how they turned out, I just wish our doors would have been done the same.

----------


## dennis4558

Now we'll jump to the Thai kitchen, if you watched the video you seen the inside kitchen



This is the counter next to wall of inside kitchen



This is counter on south wall, one thing we didn't realize and the tile guy that installed it didn't say anything to the daughter was that the lpg door opens the wrong way, if we had know that it could have been moved to the middle, now it's going to be a bit awkward gettomg the lpg tank in and out, it's something that doesn't have to be done very often so I guess it'll work
Granite counter top is next probably before the end of the week

----------


## dennis4558

Now some outside pictures of wall progress



Front south corner of front wall with power pole, pole still needs to be painted and box for electrical wires



Looking back on south side of house



Same side but from the back looking to front of house, not a lot of room but I think it's about 80 cm



Looking toward NW corner



This is a picture between the west wall and neighbors wall, we were told before we left that they were going to dig out all the dirt and cement the bottom so no vegetation would grow, as you can see that never happened.



A look down the north wall

----------


## dennis4558

Almost forgot about toilet drain being in the wrong place and how it was fixed, if you recall they put the drain at 50 cm from the wall instead of 30 - 35 cm
I thought they were going to move the pipe, Oh no I was wrong, here's the Thai fix





I wouldn't go for it, we finally agreed on a fix, I forgot to take a picture, what I had them do was cut a 4" pipe in half and fit it in the slope they made with mortar, he put the 2nd toilet on before I seen it but he say's he did the same  :smiley laughing:  him after I left. We have a year before final payment if they're any problems

----------


## dennis4558

Now some outdoor plumbing pictures



Sewer, shower/sink drains, hot and cold water going to second floor



Another view showing septic tank



Hot and cold water to 1st floor bath sink



The closer ring tank is water from showers, sinks and wash machine, grey water for watering trees etc., the other tank is for the septic overflow. I'm sure the rings aren't sealed so what I'm thinking of doing is set a 55 gallon plastic barrel inside that the water will go into first, if I need the water I can run the pump if not it will overflow and seep out the rings. Just an idea.



Another angle showing the piping

----------


## lom

> here's the Thai fix


I wouldn't accept that and your idea of cutting a 4" pipe in half and put it in the slope is equally bad.
The toilet outlet should go down in the pipe and in the toilet kit there is wax ring which is intended to seal between toilet outlet and pipe.

You either place the toilet now where the pipe is or you hack up a new hole for an extended pipe, what you have now is a disaster waiting to happen.

----------


## dennis4558

Security camera's installed six outside and one inside, only have picture of inside one in 1st floor living room

----------


## dennis4558

> I wouldn't accept that and your idea of cutting a 4" pipe in half and put it in the slope is equally bad.
> The toilet outlet should go down in the pipe and in the toilet kit there is wax ring which is intended to seal between toilet outlet and pipe.
> 
> You either place the toilet now where the pipe is or you hack up a new hole for an extended pipe, what you have now is a disaster waiting to happen.


Hi lom, If we have any problems that first year they will be tearing it up and doing it right. We just ran out of time for that to happen now, we needed a working toilet. On the outdoor toilet I told him there wouldn't be any payment if it wasn't done right, and from what the daughter told me it's been done right.

----------


## dennis4558

lom, don't know if you've ever pulled up a Thai toilet but when I worked on duplex we fixed up and sold those toilets were done the same, the holes were closer but all they did was set the toilet on the hole and siliconed it down to seal up the smell, they were nasty because there was no direct flow to drain, I was surprised they even worked.

----------


## dennis4558

Outside toilet 

Attachment 46450


Attachment 46451

One of the water faucets, there are 2 on south side front and back connected to city water line, and 2 on north side front and back connected after pressure pump.

----------


## dennis4558

Not sure what happened on last post, will try again

----------


## ootai

Dennis
I was just wondering why you left a gap between your wall and the neighbouring wall?

----------


## dennis4558

Hi Ootai, not sure why he did that, only thing I can think of is all the water off the neighbor house will not go into our land or they were too lazy to dig the rest of the dirt out by hand. I've kinda gotten an attitude about the job, after babysitting the worker almost every day while we were there, most of the things I was concerned about are done just the finishing touches which I'm leaving to the wife and daughter to watch over. It's true how everyone has said on this forum when building in Thailand you should be on site all the time. I wore out a tape measure while I was there just checking every thing they did, it seemed like they had a different scale on their tape measures for all the stuff that was wrong and had to be redone but I guess that's job security for them if they're being paid by the day.

----------


## dennis4558

[QUOTE=ootai;4071389]Dennis
I was just wondering why you left a gap between your wall and the neighbouring wall?


Another note on this, if there's enough room when I go over next year I'll try to knock the dirt down level then pour some concrete over it to keep things from growing

----------


## dennis4558

We were going to pour concrete down both sides of the house, but just to be safe I put that on hold until next year I want to be sure we don't have any plumbing problems, be a lot easier to dig out dirt than breaking up concrete.

----------


## Mozzbie47

Very good move, make sure the outside concrete level is below the inside level.

----------


## ootai

> Hi Ootai, not sure why he did that, only thing I can think of is all the water off the neighbor house will not go into our land or they were too lazy to dig the rest of the dirt out by hand.


Dennis I am not sure of your answer but I was actually asking why build a separate wall in the first place? Why not use the one ( the neighbours) that was already there?
Was there a dispute about where the land boundary actually is? Even if the neighbours wall was crappy you could have just built another one hard up against it.
Then when you concrete around your house make it a little bit higher than the neighbours ground and knock a few drain holes in the bottom of the wall.

----------


## dennis4558

> Dennis I am not sure of your answer but I was actually asking why build a separate wall in the first place? Why not use the one ( the neighbours) that was already there?


Sorry Ootai, didn't catch that, the reason was the other wall was very poorly constructed, there were no concrete posts anywhere along the wall.

----------


## dennis4558

Finally got this picture thing figured out, wife socializing with a local elephant

----------


## dennis4558

This builder definitely doesn't know how to pour steps, not sure who poured these but the rendering crew were the ones that finally got our inside steps right

Attachment 46617 

That first step will be a big one after tile is put on lol time for the jack hammer

----------


## Mozzbie47

> This builder definitely doesn't know how to pour steps, not sure who poured these but the rendering crew were the ones that finally got our inside steps right
> 
> Attachment 46617 
> 
> That first step will be a big one after tile is put on lol time for the jack hammer


   Many Thai steps are incorrect, you almost need to walk on them sideways,

----------


## thaiguzzi

> Finally got this picture thing figured out, wife socializing with a local elephant


... which should still be with its mother...
Look at the "Mahout's" spikey stick thing used to "train" the juvenile elephant.
Makes me puke.

----------


## naptownmike

^Yeah I always feel bad when I see all the scars around their head from "training" 

House looks great.

----------


## dennis4558

> Many Thai steps are incorrect, you almost need to walk on them sideways,


Hi Mozzbie, Maybe this builder will remember how to do them right after our job lol

----------


## dennis4558

> ... which should still be with its mother...
> Look at the "Mahout's" spikey stick thing used to "train" the juvenile elephant.
> Makes me puke.


I agree with you Guzzi, but I can't convince the wife not to support them.

----------


## dennis4558

> House looks great.


Thanks Mike, things really slowed down after we left, but I'm not in a hurry any more, daughter might be though, she wants to move in.

----------


## dennis4558

They finally found granite to fit the extra deep counter in the Thai kitchen, the counters were supposed to be 60 cm deep, but they made the long one 70 cm, the builder agreed to pay the extra for the granite instead of tearing it down and starting over, not sure where he found the granite, maybe in Kalasin where he's from, because we looked at every shop in Roi Et and all they had were full sheets





They still need to cut sink hole in this one.



And this one nees hole for recessed gas stove and tile guy has to replace couple tile that he made too short, he was told counter was flat but has short memory and because they had cement poured lower he shortened the tile.

----------


## dennis4558

Railing guy is getting his job done







Still section on top, but waiting to have tile replace that he broke and need metal on top for wood to mount to also lower step rail needs to be installed.

----------


## Neverna

It's coming along nicely now, Dennis.

----------


## dennis4558

Hi Neverna, Thanks, slow but sure they say but hit another bump in the road, they didn't space the hot and cold far enough apart in the 2nd floor bathroom, I even told the builder they recommend 15 cm center to center on the mixer, he told me it's ok they're adjustable, but not adjustable enough as it shows in the picture

----------


## dennis4558

The lower stairs railing is done just waiting for wood hand rail



Outside toilet and shower looks to be done too



Needs some cleaning

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## dennis4558

The tile under the granite tops has been replaced in both kitchens and tile above counter top is done in Thai kitchen





Plastic has been removed from windows, looks better

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## naptownmike

Looking great. I love the wood on your stairs.

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## Mozzbie47

> Hi Mozzbie, Maybe this builder will remember how to do them right after our job lol


   That sounds about right.

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## dennis4558

> Looking great. I love the wood on your stairs.


Thanks Mike, It should look even better when the wood handrails are on, wood for that is on site

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## dennis4558

Couple other appliances are in



Water filter looks like it's ready to use



Whole house gas water heater is on the wall but still needs gas, electric and exhaust piped to the outside

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## dennis4558

They started on the trim for front deck posts and there will be some on front of 2nd floor wall and I'm not sure about front of 1st floor, I'm always the last to know





A look at front of house after painting

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## ootai

> They started on the trim for front deck posts and there will be some on front of 2nd floor wall and I'm not sure about front of 1st floor, I'm always the last to know


Dennis
You know the rules, or you should by now, if you really want to be helpful don't ask questions, just send more money!

Just remember one day you will wake up and it will be finished.

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## dennis4558

> Just remember one day you will wake up and it will be finished.


Hi Ootai, If I'm still sane by then, here's a real example of what I've got to deal with, this is builders verson of a P-trap



I just told wife to tell daughter not to wash any food scraps down drain or it will be plugged before I get back to change it.

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## dennis4558

A few more changes to the front of house



With daughters wide angle lens it makes deck look bigger than house, I think I've got her convinced to turn that off, we'll see in future pictures



Upper level with trim installed

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## dennis4558

Another shot of the stair railing, still need wood hand rail installed

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## dennis4558

Cleanup and landscape also done on outside of north wall and lot to south 



North side



Lot to south looking to front



South lot looking back between old house and our wall



South lot behind house

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## dennis4558

Drainage along north wall

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## NamPikToot

Getting there Denis, the arse ache of managing this from afar will soon fade once you have your sundowner in hand with a BBQ sizzling away.

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## mikenot

A nice colour scheme there, modern but tastefully restrained .....unlike so many thai houses !

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## dennis4558

> Getting there Denis, the arse ache of managing this from afar will soon fade once you have your sundowner in hand with a BBQ sizzling away.


Hi NPT, that's what I'm looking forward to next year when we go, there'll still be lots of odds and ends to take care of but that's what I like to do.

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## Norton

Coming along great considering the virus thing. You need anything done let me know.

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## dennis4558

> A nice colour scheme there, modern but tastefully restrained .....unlike so many thai houses !


Thanks Mike, we tried to keep it simple and we both like neutral colors, had to fight the daughter a bit about

 modern styling, we let her add a bit to keep her happy. We've noticed the lower area is a bit dark so 

we talked about changing some of the walls to a lighter color but will wait until later after we get 

contractor out.

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## dennis4558

> Coming along great considering the virus thing. You need anything done let me know.


Hi Norton, I'm surprised too that they're still working but I know the builder wants his money so I'm sure


he's pushingto get it done so he can get paid, we've been paying small amounts to keep him happy and

 working even though wecould wait until he's finished. The final amount won't get paid until a year after

 he's finished so don't have to worry about him packing up before it's done and there are extra's that we

 haven't paid because he hasn't finished, he likes to start things but not finish, example the deck, all that's

 left is to make sure water goes to drain and paint.

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## dennis4558

Stair rails completed







I'm impressed with the outcome, they did a nice job

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## dennis4558

The deck is done with some problems





Don't know if you can see it on the photo's but there's a bubble in the paint in the middle, my guess is they didn't let the concrete

cure long enough where they filled low spots and the moisture is trying to get out.

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## dennis4558

This should bring a chuckle to some of you out there

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## dennis4558

With the virus slowing things down, we did find someone to install roll up door for small building. The daughter was a bit

excited because the door doesn't go all the way down, we'll be taking out the tank and pump when we go back next year

install tile then everything should seal up.

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## dennis4558

They finally got the gas stove installed and hooked up.





Getting the tank in and changing it is a bit of a hassle with the door swinging the wrong way, not sure 

if the door can be changed, will look at that the next time we're there.

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## dennis4558

Still waiting on the main and walk-in gate, BIL and wife selling some moo ping and few other items,

 sounds like he's been doing OK.

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## ootai

dennis4558
I hope you have an opening at the back of that cabinet where you have your gas cylinder so that if there is a leak the gas doesn't build up. When we build our house we put the pipe through the wall so the gas bottle could be outside.
As for the door it looks like you should be able to change it over just have to change the position of the doorknob.

It looks like the driveway or entrance to your place needs a bit of landscaping and a drain to tidy it up a bit. If that was anywhere in a "nanny state" they would be onto you about and unsafe approach to your food stand.

Keep posting I really enjoy seeing your updates.

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## Stumpy

Been following along on this build. Always great to see progress.

A comment on the kitchen from some experience. Your cooking area appears pretty small. Does the "Chef" of the house plan on cooking traditional Thai food there? If so, you may find that the area will get incredibly hot with the gas burners on and a wok on the grill. We originally built a western style kitchen in our home and have used it 6 times if that. We ultimately ended up building a detached kitchen off the house and we felt adding the big windows by the stove area thinking it would allow good air flow but that has not worked as well as envisioned. We are going to have to add a hood. My wife cooks traditional Thai food and the mess and heat in the kitchen can be extremely hot ( especially during summer) and moreover messy. 

Great Thread and keep the updates coming.

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## dennis4558

> I hope you have an opening at the back of that cabinet where you have your gas cylinder so that if there is a leak the gas doesn't build up


Hi Ootai, Setting tank outside isn't an option, but putting in a vent would be, will have to add that to the list, hope they don't blow up the house before we get there.

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## dennis4558

> It looks like the driveway or entrance to your place needs a bit of landscaping and a drain to tidy it up a bit. If that was anywhere in a "nanny state" they would be onto you about and unsafe approach to your food stand.


Waiting on the gate to finish up the front area, it's taking him quite a while to finish those gates. As far as the

 safe approach, this is Thailand your at your own risk to get some food LOL.

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## dennis4558

> Keep posting I really enjoy seeing your updates.


Thanks and we'll post what we get, things are a bit slow because of the virus, builders have to do all kinds of paperwork to move between cities.

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## dennis4558

> the area will get incredibly hot with the gas burners on


Thanks JPPR, My original plan was to have the Thai kitchen open with only a half wall, it was the cooks in the house that changed it.

 There is an exhaust fan directly above the stove so that should help.

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## dennis4558

Ootai, after thinking about the gas tank situation, a gas leak alarm mounted in the cabinet should work, they're only about $25 here in the states, can take one with.

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## dennis4558

They finally planted some scrubs we got for house warming.

 

There's 2 more on the other side but don't have a pic of that yet.

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## ootai

> Ootai, after thinking about the gas tank situation, a gas leak alarm mounted in the cabinet should work, they're only about $25 here in the states, can take one with.


dennis
The alarm would be OK "if" it is always operating and well maintained something that rarely happens here. If it is battery operated someone needs to remember to check the batteries and replace them if needed.  If it is mains power operated then remember the voltage difference between here and the US.

As for your front entrance I agree everything here is "at your own risk" no liability or responsibility for anything.

As for JPPR2's comment about the gas cooker, we made an inside kitchen in our house and as I said put the gas bottle outside BUT in nearly 10 years the cooker has never been used.
My missus finally said (about 2 years ago) that the house is too big, something I tried to convince her of before we built it.

----------


## Stumpy

> Thanks JPPR, My original plan was to have the Thai kitchen open with only a half wall, it was the cooks in the house that changed it.
> 
> There is an exhaust fan directly above the stove so that should help.


 That may help Dennis. When my wife and I designed our floor plan I think she was thinking more "Western" ideals versus reality when we moved back. Our upstairs kitchen even has a very nice stove and oven. My wife uses the oven to bake cookies and cakes. That's it. :Smile: 




> BUT in nearly 10 years the cooker has never been used.


Yeah we are in 5 years now and the stove top gas burners have never been used upstairs. After moving in the reality of location, inconvenience and mess moved it to a "I'm sorry Pe, We should have built the kitchen outside as we never will eat up here" apology.  All good. I like the kitchen set up outside and my wife loves it. Now the upstairs kitchen is basically my wet bar area and a refrigerator with an auto ice dispenser so all is good. :Smile:

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## NamPikToot

> They finally planted some scrubs we got for house warming.


Denis, my advice on plant/trees is take your time. Its cheap and easy to throw lots in but they soon outgrow the space. Take your time and think what you want. I like limes and lemons, get them all year, keep them in pots, Red Dragon fruit, small easy to look after, Pomelo are easy to grow, flowers smell lovely and the trees are small - essentially your plot is not to big and you need to plant accordingly. I prefer buying seasonal fruit and grow the ones that are small and produce year round. Just my two pence worth.

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## Neverna

> They finally planted some scrubs we got for house warming.
> 
> 
> 
> There's 2 more on the other side but don't have a pic of that yet.


They look like young "Moke" plants (โมก) - Wrightia Religiosa / Water Jasmine. 

If so, they are quite slow growing and easy to maintain and their small white flowers look nice when the plant is covered in bloom. They don't grow very tall at all so you won't have the problem of them outgrowing the space they're in. They'll need to be watered regularly though.

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## Stumpy

> Denis, my advice on plant/trees is take your time. Its cheap and easy to throw lots in but they soon outgrow the space. Take your time and think what you want. I like limes and lemons, get them all year, keep them in pots, Red Dragon fruit, small easy to look after, Pomelo are easy to grow, flowers smell lovely and the trees are small - essentially your plot is not to big and you need to plant accordingly. I prefer buying seasonal fruit and grow the ones that are small and produce year round. Just my two pence worth.


Great advice NPT, ones lot size takes proper planning and consideration.  

Adding to that, trees that grow large can crack cement with the trunk or the roots or knock over cement walls. Messy trees plug gutters (if you have them) and give birds lots of nesting material.  The hedges in the picture above have wonderful smelling flowers but tend to grow poorly when not planted close together and take a lot of work to get them nice looking. They also take a lot of water to get established. Also check where your water will run off the roof. You surely do not want to plant a tree where the rain water will beat it to death. Again just some comments from having learned from experience whether our own or seen elsewhere.

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## dennis4558

> The alarm would be OK "if" it is always operating and well maintained something that rarely happens here. If it is battery operated someone needs to remember to check the batteries and replace them if needed. If it is mains power operated then remember the voltage difference between here and the US.


It would be battery operated, and the ones we have here when the battery gets low it starts beeping, hopefully they have the 

brains to replace the battery and not just remove it. 

We have the gas cooker in the thai kitchen and an induction cooker in the inside kitchen which I don't see getting used much unless we're there.

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## David48atTD

Everyone echoed my thoughts when I saw the gas bottle in the kitchen cabinet.

Alarms are fine, but a vent is great.

I'm not a gas man and not sure of gas 'sinks' or 'rises' ... but I'd definitely be putting a vent in with an insect screen so the crawlies don't enter.

If gas 'sinks' (heavier than air) then the vent should be at the floor of the cabinet.

That said ... great work with the Home thus far.

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## dennis4558

Hi NPT, I keep telling the wife that the lot is small, so I don't think we will plant too many trees, how big do lemon

 and lime trees get? I suppose if in a pot a lot smaller than if planted in the ground. Other than a lemon tree I'd like

 to try to get a noi naa to grow and produce. There a lots of mango and jack fruit in the lot beside us so don't need them.

 The only other one I'd like to try to grow are a small brown fruit (longan). I've seen noi naa in this area but not longan.

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## dennis4558

> They look like young "Moke" plants (โมก) - Wrightia Religiosa / Water Jasmine.


Hi Neverna, thanks for the info, and we can only hope they get watered regularly when we're not there LOL

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## dennis4558

> Also check where your water will run off the roof. You surely do not want to plant a tree where the rain water will beat it to death


Hi JPPR, They're not under the roof line, so should be OK if they get watered enough, we won't be planting

 trees close to the house, we had several removed in the neighboring lots removed because of that. We didn't

 put gutters on yet, it's a wait and see how things work, I know on the Thai kitchen roof we will probably put a 

gutter on and maybe on the back side of the small building, nobody cleans gutter over there except me so I don't

 want too many to clean LOL

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## dennis4558

> If gas 'sinks' (heavier than air) then the vent should be at the floor of the cabinet.


Hi David, I would need to put fresh air vent in too, I don't want to cut a vent in the door so don't have much options.

 They both could be on the outside but not sure I could find something in the LOS that would look good to do that.

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## dennis4558

Here's a surprise, looks like they're redoing the deck surface, not sure what that's all about.





Looks like they're peeling off the paint, I'll have to see if I can get some more info as to what's going on.

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## dennis4558

They've also started on the main gate.

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## mikenot

> Hi NPT, I keep telling the wife that the lot is small, so I don't think we will plant too many trees, how big do lemon
> 
>  and lime trees get? I suppose if in a pot a lot smaller than if planted in the ground.


If you want to save space citrus trees can be espaliered along a wall. Fix some wires a few cms away from the wall and train the branches along them in any design you fancy, lots of Youtube videos and other info on the web. Of course you will have to convince everybody thats never seen it before that YES, Thai citrus trees are same same as rest of the world and it can be done.

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## dennis4558

> If you want to save space citrus trees can be espaliered along a wall. Fix some wires a few cms away from the wall and train the branches along them in any design you fancy,


Thanks Mike for that info, something new for me too, I'll have to do some research on it.

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## dennis4558

Deck is finished again, we'll have to see which way the water goes, I was told there was a swimming hole in the center before,

 this will be the third fix counting the original pour.





Hope they let it cure before painting, last time they had some paint bubbling.

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## lom

> Hope they let it cure before painting, last time they had some paint bubbling.


If that is a thick concrete layer then they should wait a month for the concrete to dry out fully.

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## Klondyke

^and spray water on it regularly...

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## dennis4558

> If that is a thick concrete layer then they should wait a month for the concrete to dry out fully.


Hi Lom, I don't think it's very thick but I agree with you, I would still wait a month before painting

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## dennis4558

> ^and spray water on it regularly...


Hi Klondyke, I agree, I'll send a message an try to get them to do that.

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## dennis4558

Couple pictures of deck getting leveled.

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## Stumpy

Looking good Dennis. I am liking the "infinity" balcony.... :Smile:

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## dennis4558

Concrete is poured for the rest of driveway



The concrete for the walkin gate will have to wait, the storm drain is under that area, it needs to be moved as far to the outside wall as possible and either connected to storm sewer or out on street, I'll decide that when I get there.

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## dennis4558

> Looking good Dennis. I am liking the "infinity" balcony....


I can't wait to use it too, once the railing is on it may lose the infinity look  :Smile:

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## dennis4558

We have a gate, the center support is backwards but what can you say.



The center support section should be installed with larger support to the inside, we told him OK just leave it for now

 but install vertical steel so it looks like the gates, well that didn't happen either, I think to save money he use short pieces 

and filled in between supports. I guess we'll leave it for now until we go there then I'll find someone else to turn it around 

and make it look like the gates. I thought he did a good job on the stair railing but his work on the gate is way below acceptable. 

He's working on  the walk-in gates now, he was told they need to look the same as car gates or no payment. The gate in the back 

yard I'm not to concerned about but the front one needs to be done right.

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## dennis4558

Here's another picture of what I mean about support being backwards





Here you can see if he had turned the support around it would have looked much neater on the street side

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## dennis4558

Here's the start on the walk-in gate

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## dennis4558

Walk-in gates are installed and after 2nd try they have them swinging the right way.



Front gate



Rear gate

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## Norton

Getting some rain Dennis. Will have some slow down but local builders cope well with rain. Coming along nicely.

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## dennis4558

> Getting some rain Dennis. Will have some slow down but local builders cope well with rain. Coming along nicely.


Thanks Norton, not much for them to do now, will wait until we can return to check everything out and see what we want to do next, also he has several things that need to be fixed but he doesn't seem to be in any hurry to get them done, I guess that will be longer until we have to make final payment, it's one year from completion.

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## Fondles

Was he drunk when he made that rear gate or is it the camera making it look wonky ?

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## dennis4558

Hi Fondles - It's wonky the daughter told us about it too, but I can't complain too much because it's a free door,

 I already made him change the direction of swing, I'll have to take a look at it when we go there next year and see

how hard it will be to correct. Looking at the photo it looks like the posts are wider on top then on the bottom, myself 

I would have left the difference in spacing next to the post not try to spread it out with the steel spacing, it makes it look 

like you've had a few too many looking at it lol.

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## NamPikToot

> Hi NPT, I keep telling the wife that the lot is small, so I don't think we will plant too many trees, how big do lemon and lime trees get? I suppose if in a pot a lot smaller than if planted in the ground. Other than a lemon tree I'd like to try to get a noi naa to grow and produce. There a lots of mango and jack fruit in the lot beside us so don't need them.
> 
>  The only other one I'd like to try to grow are a small brown fruit (longan). I've seen noi naa in this area but not longan.


Apologies for not replying Dennis. Limes and Lemons if you can get a decent Lemon are fairly small, a good lime which can have up to 20 on at a time and pot grown could be say up to 4 feet high and 4 feet wide or smaller and can take pruning - they are more a shrub. They produce year round.

Noi Na or custard apple are very seasonal. When commercially grown they maintain them as small trees 6-8 feet high and pruned annually. My advice is that given they produce once a year ordinarily i'd give them a mis and buy them from the market in season.

One of my favourites is Pomelo. Its is another citrus shrub but grows larger than limes but not too big. They produce year round but the fruit takes months to reach full size and ripen - which i quite like for its visual appearance. Most fruit in the tropics are very sweet and imo get boring after a while whereas Pomelo is like a slightly sweeter grapefruit and has a tart edge (not face puckering like grapefruit) and that comes as a welcome change. Again easy to prune and maintain not big and the flower have a lovely perfume in the evening.



Longan and Lam Yai are larger trees when they mature, no reason whey you can't plant them but you'll need to prune, as you will all trees given your lot size. 

We also have Dragon Fruit which don't take up much room, They are grown up concrete posts with an unsightly motorcycle tyre on the top but after a few yew years they completely cover the tire and are reliable fruit producers and add another visual point of interest without taking up too much room. The pic below is of a Red (internal flesh) plant we put in two years ago and its now flowering. They are easily controlled and pruned and don't take much maintenance given they are cacti.



Another possibility is Coconuts, the drinking ones. You can get nice varieties now which are low growing and produce from a low height. One palm will probably give you enough for your needs and by the time you need a monkey trained to reach the fruit you'll be long in the ground.  :Smile: 

If it was me i'd go the smaller tree/shrub route rather than larger ones that produce only once a year, unless you are thinking of a shade tree down stream.

Does your wife like orchids? they are low maintenance and produce fantastic displays and grow well in the climate, those and perhaps a range of scented plants inc Jasmine which you'll get great perfume off in the evening and pot grown you can have them on your deck without taking up too much room.

That's my 5 dimes worth.

----------


## Norton

^Good stuff there Dennis and spot on. The missus has the green thumb here so when you get back have a look at what she has done at our house and where she buys in Roiet.

We are just 15 mins down the road from you.

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## NamPikToot

Good grief, in my fruit obsession i forgot whats really important.....stuff for eating  :Smile:  i'm sure Norts good lady has a small herb area, BiP has done some posts on this too. A small kitchen garden area with a Kafir Lime (slow growing and don't take up much room), Lemon grass, Galangal and of course Chilis and Holy Basil. You could get this lot into an area say 10 foot long and 4-5 foot wide and Mrs Snowbird will love picking her herbs for what ever meal she's knocking up - they are all easy to grow too.

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## dennis4558

> Limes and Lemons if you can get a decent Lemon are fairly small, a good lime which can have up to 20 on at a time and pot grown could be say up to 4 feet high and 4 feet wide or smaller and can take pruning - they are more a shrub. They produce year round.


Hi NPT, and thanks for your 5 dimes worth. I'd prefer lemons but if they don't grown that well than a lime will do especially if they produce year round, more practical.

----------


## dennis4558

> Noi Na or custard apple are very seasonal. When commercially grown they maintain them as small trees 6-8 feet high and pruned annually. My advice is that given they produce once a year ordinarily i'd give them a mis and buy them from the market in season.


Because they are a small tree, I'd like to give them a try, BIL already planted one for me, had to have him move it because he planted it too close to the wall, I'm planing a 2' wicking bed all the way around the back wall for veggie. He's got instructions now if its a tree it needs to be at least 1.5 meters from the wall.

----------


## dennis4558

> One of my favourites is Pomelo. Its is another citrus shrub but grows larger than limes but not too big.


Asked the wife about this one, she explained it the same way you did but didn't get a yes or no of it was something we could plant.

----------


## dennis4558

> Longan and Lam Yai are larger trees when they mature, no reason whey you can't plant them but you'll need to prune, as you will all trees given your lot size.


Lam Yai is one of my favorites too, not sure if it will grow/produce in RoiEt but would like to give it a try also.

----------


## dennis4558

> Another possibility is Coconuts, the drinking ones. You can get nice varieties now which are low growing and produce from a low height. One palm will probably give you enough for your needs and by the time you need a monkey trained to reach the fruit you'll be long in the ground.


That's another one that the wife gave an OK too, I like the coconut juice and the soft coconut, I'm not a fan of hard coconut.

----------


## dennis4558

> Does your wife like orchids? they are low maintenance and produce fantastic displays and grow well in the climate, those and perhaps a range of scented plants inc Jasmine which you'll get great perfume off in the evening and pot grown you can have them on your deck without taking up too much room.


Wife loves orchids, we have 2 here at our house in the states that have been blooming since the beginning of Feb. they're just about to the end now last blossoms are open, so i'm sure we will have them all over the place over there.

Thanks again for all the ideas

----------


## dennis4558

> ^Good stuff there Dennis and spot on. The missus has the green thumb here so when you get back have a look at what she has done at our house and where she buys in Roiet.
> 
> We are just 15 mins down the road from you.


Thanks Norton, and we'll probably take you up on the offer and stop by and see what you have growing.

----------


## mikenot

If you need to improve your soil, which is quite likely, there is worm farm in Roi Et to get some worm castings from.....magic stuff ! Penn Worm Farm, a Thai/farang operation .... have a website and Facebook page with their location details.

----------


## dennis4558

> If you need to improve your soil, which is quite likely, there is worm farm in Roi Et to get some worm castings from.....magic stuff ! Penn Worm Farm, a Thai/farang operation .... have a website and Facebook page with their location details.


Hi Mike, I heard about them before and will definitely check them out, I know worm casting are great stuff, but will want to get the wicking garden in place first. I want to set up a grey water filter to use for watering it so will have plenty to do when we go there in Jan. The grey water filter will be made up with water plants to do the filtering.

----------


## NamPikToot

> Wife loves orchids, we have 2 here at our house in the states that have been blooming since the beginning of Feb. they're just about to the end now last blossoms are open, so i'm sure we will have them all over the place over there.


Our resident Orchid lover is Graceless Fawn, her thread below. Many of the early pages seem to have lost their Photo links but the later ones are there, its worth flicking through at your leisure as there is advice and tips on growing.

Bloom Baby Bloom!

----------


## dennis4558

> Our resident Orchid lover is Graceless Fawn, her thread below. Many of the early pages seem to have lost their Photo links but the later ones are there, its worth flicking through at your leisure as there is advice and tips on growing.
> 
> Bloom Baby Bloom!


Thanks NPT, I'll let the wife know

----------


## dennis4558

Made a couple small tables out of left over granite pieces

----------


## dennis4558

A frame was also made for the dining room table but still waiting on the granite top

----------

