#  >  > Travellers Tales in Thailand and Asia >  >  > Laos Forum >  >  Laos road trip

## MeMock

2nd road trip to Laos in as many months. This time it was a little different as I had my Father along for the ride along with my older brother Paul (the brains of the Laos operation) and a family friend who to keep him anonymous will be now known as Des.

January 16 saw us make a leisurely departure for Laos (from Ubon) at around 10am after having breakfast in Ubon at Peppers. We had a few small interruptions at Chong Mek getting our car across the border but nothing that was to much stress. We cruised across the Mekong river into the town of Pakse around 3pm.



We checked into our hotel locally known as the white house and then set out to explore Pakse as well as filling out tummies!  We quickly found a roadside shop that fulfilled us with a French loaf sandwich!


The rest of the afternoon saw us meandering around town before catching up for dinner and a sun-downer alongside the Mekong River. On this trip I decided not to bring my camera as my wife needed it for work and Dad who is a great photographer was bringing his so for this thread you will see Laos through the eyes of my Dad instead of me.

Here are a few random pics from day 1.

A road side mechanical workshop.



Locals playing Pétanque



Some more locals.



Looking back across the the Mekong river.



More to come.

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## phomsanuk

Someday I hope  :Smile:  Ahh crusty french bagette ......

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## Nawty

I wanna see the wood...

Yes the french rools there are very tasty....so are the lamingtons....cannot get the lamingtons outa my head.

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## Big D

Did you find people afraid to talk?  Did you feel watched or was it like seeing more of rural Issan?

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## Big D

Lovely pictures.  When I visited Laos for a few hours, I had sand mites biting my feet.  Did that happen to you?

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## MeMock

Sorry for the lack of follow up. Days 2 - 8 are still to come!

Sandmites? Can't say that I noticed them but I was wearing boots and jeans all the time.

People are certainly more hesitant to talk then in rural Thailand. Feel watched? No.

The wood is coming nawty!

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## MeMock

Bright and early the next morning we set off towards the Bolaven Plateau and the town of Paksong.  First stop was the farm of Delta Coffee which is where Peppers buys all their great coffee from.

Although no one was there we had organised our visit ahead of time. We had a good look around the farm, this being the first time I had ever seen coffee plants up close.



We had a look around the sheds as well and discovered all kinds of equipment.



Down the hill a little we were delighted to find a pristine looking stream and much to my Dads delight a working mini hydro plant.

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## MeMock

fter spending over an hour there we heading back into the township of Paksong where I wanted Dad and Des who, how shall we put this nicely.... are addicted to coffee, to meet a man by the name of Coffee and indulge in what he does best, drink and talk about coffee! Unfortunately he wasn't home so we pushed on. 
Apart from coffee the other major reason for travelling around the Bolaven Plateau was to check out a few Agarwood plantations. We came across one major place which had some good looking trees but the rest were just a few scattered here and there. Before we saw any though we stopped and had a look at coffee beans drying on the side of the road.



As well as this nice waterfall. The car park was full of tour buses from Thailand and people were everywhere but it was still a nice place to stop and stretch the legs





I saw this interesting sign in one of the car parks.



It was then time to find some lunch (and coffee!) Not much luck on the coffee front (this was a trend that was to follow for most of the trip much to their disappointment!) Lunch was also interesting in this small village that we stopped at. A lot of things looked promising but failed to deliver while there were also a few pleasant surprises as well. Whilst there we met an American man who was riding around on his motorbike. Thankfully he had a map as the road we had planned to head back to Pakse on we found out was a lot further then we thought as well as being in very bad condition. It would have seen us arriving home well after dark. He also told us of another waterfall which was only a few kms away which we decided to go and see. 



This place was much quieter as well as being a better waterfall to look at and we enjoyed our time here.

From there we drove straight back to Pakse arriving just before sunset. Outside the hotel we saw the aftermath of an accident which Dad took a few photos of.



I really love the second one that he took. Notice the bike coming out of the side street? Five people on board, no helmets and not concerned about the policeman (getting off his motorbike)at all!



That night we met up with some friends of mine for dinner who live in Pakse and are currently setting up a Cafe/Bakery to help train up locals by giving them skills in English, cooking, cleaning, business management, customer service etc etc. It is a great project and I will follow it with interest. Next time I go over there I plan to take some photos and publish more about what they are doing exactly.

After dinner we went and had a look at their business premises before walking back to the hotel for a much needed sleep!

Day Three, Pakse to Thakhek, coming soon.

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## Coffee

> to meet a man by the name of Coffee and indulge in what he does best, drink and talk about coffee! Unfortunately he wasn't home so we pushed on.


MeMock, that was realy bad luck, I spent 29 days per month in Paksong and spend only 2 days in Ubon Ratchatani to do my shopping.... And that day you liked to visit me. I'm sure that the next time when you are in Paksong you will find me at home  :Smile:

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## MeMock

Next time might not be to far away mate so I look forward to it. When you are next in Ubon I hope you have a little spare time to drop into the shop for a coffee MeMock style!

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## Coffee

Last weekend from the month I'm in Thailand, thats around the 27th.
Dont know why my skype icon is offline, but I'm always online.
Is it next to the airport ?

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## MeMock

Yes mate, opposite the entrance to the airforce base.

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## Nawty

Do they grow decaff ?

Nice waterfalls.

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## Jet Gorgon

Great thread and comments. Thanks, MM

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## the dogcatcher

Hmmm, I really should finish my Laos thread.
Great pics, got any more?

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## MeMock

Yeah, at least another 6 days worth, just a matter of finding the time.

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## klongmaster

> Yeah, at least another 6 days worth, just a matter of finding the time.


Lao Lao ...(if you'll excuse the pun)

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## MeMock

Your excused Klongy *groan*

Day 3.

We were on the road by 8am and struck trouble within the first 200 metres! I thought I would try a different route out of Pakse this time and took the bridge instead of going around. Little did I know that the bridge was one-way and by the time I reached it a swarm of mosquitos were bearing down on me. These mozzies took the shapes of Hondas and Yamahas and there also seemed to be a queen mozzie who was flapping his arms and blowing a whistle. I was about to experience my first dealings with the police, Laos style.

I quickly reversed out of the way then walked over to where I was being summonsed to - the police box. What proceeded was quite a laugh. For maybe five minues or more we joked about how I hadn't seen the traffic lights, what I was doing, where I was going, the weather, how many people were driving past at that moment breaking the law before eventually the fine got mentioned. He was adamant that I should pay 400 baht but after I explained that that was expensive even for Thailand and in my best accountant voice explained the GDP of both countries and why a Laos fine should be cheaper then a Thai one he eventually agreed upon 200 baht ($7 AUD) (still too much) and we were free to go.

This is me at the police box. 



We proceeded on unsure how far we were going to get that day. We bypassed Savannakhet and made tracks for Tha Khaek.
This part of Laos is very boring and dusty rice fields were the order of the day apart from one 30km stretch about an hour north of Pakse where they obviously have access to water all your round and a second rice crop for the season was well underway.



even years ago on one of Dad's trips to visit us in Thailand he came across grilled rat for sale in a local market. He turned his nose up then but decided on this trip he was going to be brave and wanted to at least try one. We went back to that same market and many others in Thailand but never saw any so I was hoping to find him one is Laos. Just before the bypass road past Savannakhet there are dozens and dozens of women all trying to sell meat on a stick. You pull up and are besieged by at least ten of them all thrusting various tempting and not so tempting meat snacks in your face.



Unfortunately they had only Pork and Chicken, Rat it seems was not available that day. As a result we had to stop a little way down the road where we had too much food at a tiny little roadside restaurant. Whilst eating we marvelled at the sugar cane trucks rolling slowly by. We caught up with them on the road very quickly after lunch.



As you travel from province to province in Laos you will pass through a toll gate like this one.



Last year the toll was 2,000 kip which suddenly jumped to 5,000 kip or 20 baht (65cents AUD).

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## MeMock

Eventually we arrived in Tha Khaek. It was only 3pm but we decided to call it a day otherwise at sundown we would have found ourselves in an area with only very small villages and not much (if any) in the way of accommodation. 

We had been recommended a hotel and found it easily enough and checked in before going for a walk to check this little place out. Not much goes on here but it was still a nice little place to visit. 







Whilst the French left decades ago there is still some of their influence that has been left behind. Road and pedestrian layouts and building architecture the most noticeable.





Dinner was on the banks of the Mekong looking across to Thailand watching the sun sink behind the city of Nakhon Phanom.



I took advantage of getting a Thai phone signal and made some calls which were a lot cheaper then if I made them from my Laos sim card. An early night was had by all ready for the drive to the farm and the work that lay ahead the next day.

Day four: Tha Khaek to Lax Sao and the farm coming soon.

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## the dogcatcher

200 baht bribe.
Last one I payed was 50.

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## MeMock

Did you run a red light and attempt to cross a one way bridge into oncoming traffic?

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## Nawty

Nah, he ran over a policeman.

The laos coppers just see some people coming.

Looking forward to the farm

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## natalie8

^^^That truck came off of that ferry??????????????????? Wow, marvels of engineering never cease to amaze me. 

Fantastic thread and commentary, MeMock. Love it.

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## MeMock

Day four was a much more interesting drive then day three. We left Tha Khaek a little after sun up and breakfast at the hotel. We continued north-west for two hours before turning East towards Vietnam and the farm. Filled up with petrol and a few snacks and we were back on the road again.

The scenery quickly changed as soon as we approached the foothills of the mountain range.





We stopped at a few look outs but as per usual it was very hazy. 



At one of the places we stopped I was pleased to see a dog truck approaching en route to the dinner plates of the Vietnamese. I had told Dad and Des about them earlier so it was good timing.





As per usual the drive was very nice and there was always something to see or take a photo of. At least these little piggies were not (yet) off to market like the dogs. Here they are running allllll the way home.



We arrived into Laxsao at midday....



... and checked into my home away from home, the Souriya hotel.



After lunch we headed out to the farm to get proceeding underway for another harvest. It was an exciting day as the results were the best that we had achieved so far with some trees showing good strains of dark wood.



The rest of the afternoon was spent cutting down trees and sorting them ready for the carving crew who were due to start in the morning.



Next: Day V. Tree harvesting and Dad and Des explore Laxsao by motorbike.

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## Nawty

How many trees have you got ?

I won't go into the enviromental vandalism of cutting down trees though.

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## MeMock

They are plantations Nawty and we are replanting.

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## Nawty

Well thats ok then....are you sure you do not sneak into the forest over the boundary and just chop down 1 or 2 proper ones ?

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## MeMock

Nah, there are none left!

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## JoeMoer

> They are plantations Nawty and we are replanting.


You own a farm in laos or is this a xtian thing?

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## the dogcatcher

Brill pix!

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## Wayne Kerr

Great stuff mate, you full time in that part of the world these days? Anyway, where you selling the agar into? Know it is big in China and Vietnam but thought it was a bit hard to sell into most places due to CITES related restrictions.




> Dont know why my skype icon is offline, but I'm always online.


If you're referring to your Skype icon on TD, think you may have to adjust your settings in Skype. Tools>Options>Privacy Settings & then check "Allow my status to be shown on the web"

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## Rhodie

*MeMock* great report & cracking pix.
Many thanks for posting.
I love Paxse and the islands are a great place to chill out and ride a bike.
from a film my then 14 yr old made of a trip through Laos & Cambo
Biking Down the Mekong - Day 3 from Rhodie on Vimeo.

*DogCatcher* - still awaiting the promised happy ending.... 
 :cmn: 
more like a sheepless ending!

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## SiamRick

Very good reading and pix, MeMock. Write as much as you want. E.g. would be interesting to know a bit more about the wood and the farm. Or point me to an earlier thread. Thanks.

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## MeMock

> You own a farm in laos or is this a xtian thing?


We lease a farm. xtian? Do you mean Christian?




> Brill pix!


Thank you kind sir!




> Great stuff mate, you full time in that part of the world these days? Anyway, where you selling the agar into? Know it is big in China and Vietnam but thought it was a bit hard to sell into most places due to CITES related restrictions.


Living full time in Thailand at the moment but semi regular trips to Loas are happening to keep an eye on things. Have only sold within Laos at the moment but slowly ramping things up to hopefully hit other markets.




> *MeMock* great report & cracking pix.
> Many thanks for posting.


Cheers!




> Very good reading and pix, MeMock. Write as much as you want. E.g. would be interesting to know a bit more about the wood and the farm. Or point me to an earlier thread. Thanks.


Thanks SR. The wood has been talked about elsewhere so will try and dig out the thread(s).

Hopefully this thread will resume in the next day or two as soon as I get organised!

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## MeMock

Have got myself organised but photobucket is dragging the chain. Next part of the trip will be posted as soon as they are back online.

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## MeMock

Is anyone else having trouble with photobucket? I can log in and move around everywhere apart from my actual photos.

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## chitown

This pic reminds me of the office girls walking to work in the Loop in Chitown  :Smile: 




>

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## MeMock

Were they cute or just pigs?

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## chitown

pigs  :Sad:

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## Marmite the Dog

> Is anyone else having trouble with photobucket?


I've noticed a few threads sans photos, so I guess I am.

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## MeMock

Been a few days now. Getting a bit annoying.

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## Nawty

Yeah....see what happens when TD cannot provide a decent upload formula.....one day it will bite him in the arse when all the photos in dozens of threads are gone and threads left Empra tuddish like.

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## MeMock

I remember trying to use the TD photo system years ago when I first started posting pics but my little brain could not handle the complexity compared to the ease of Photobucket (when it bloody works!)

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## Nawty

I agree, almost every other site has an easier system than TD for uploading pics.

TD is very photo unfriendly.

Thing is, if you rearrange your photos on Photobucket after you have linked to TD...you screw up the link and the thread is then useless without pics...so TD's loss really.....h and theoretically links are not allowed anyway.

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## the dogcatcher

Photobucket crashes my puter.

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## MeMock

Just recently or all the time?

I still cannot access my account.  :Sad:

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## the dogcatcher

All the time.
Wanted to use it for my Laos thread.
I really must finish that piece.

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## MeMock

It used to crash my safari browser but it has always worked fine with firefox.

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## MeMock

PB is now working again.

At the end of part four we had arrived at the farm and had spent the afternoon getting the harvest ready to begin the following day.

Early the next morning we were back at the farm after organising two motorbikes for Dad and Des to have for the day so that they could go out exploring. They dropped in on us at the farm before they hit the road. There bikes were left over from the Vietnam war (well not really but they rode like they were 40 years old we were told!)

As I didn’t go with them I cannot really comment on what they got up to. All I know is that went up to the border crossing with Vietnam and then took some back roads for a bit of exploring. Here are some of their photos.

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## MeMock



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## MeMock

While Dad and Des were out having a wow of a time exploring, Paul and I had a full day of work at the farm. It was an interesting day as we were cutting down trees that had been set aside as experiments and some of the results were not what we expected. Apart from the usual cutting, grading and setting up carving teams we also managed a few sales which was encouraging.








A busy day ended at our usual restaurant (the only half decent one in town) before another early night. The following morning Paul and I checked out of the hotel and left Dad and Des to sleep in. We went back to the farm to finalise a few sales as well as organise the carving team for the next few weeks work.

After lunch at the farm we began the seven hour drive to the capital of Laos, Vientiane. Before we left town we stopped in at the local market where Dad had found a small gravity water fed power generator for sale that he wanted some information about. Instead of myself battling through the language difficulties we took our manager along to translate.



Where did it come from? Vietnam, I think, not sure.
What company made it? Don’t know.
Who did you buy it from? Don’t know.
Who delivered it? Some truck, not sure.
Do you know where I could get any more information at all? No

Dad walked away shaking his head in disbelief while I chuckled to myself and said to him ‘welcome to doing business in Laos!”

Back on the road we had an easy run until the outskirts of Vientiane.





As we left later then expected we ended up driving the last hour in darkness which I was hoping to avoid. It is that time of the evening when all the farmers are heading home on bicycles, tuk tuks, tractors, two feet and a heat beat or buffalo and more often then not have half their livestock with them also. It wasn’t too bad actually but then it started raining and I discovered that my headlights decided they preferred to check out the moon instead of the road in front meaning everyone coming towards me was flashing me with their high beams which made things rather awkward.

Anyway, we made it safely around 7.00 pm and found the first two hotels we went to were full. The third one had some spare rooms so we grabbed them, unloaded and then went out for dinner.

I mentioned earlier in this series of blogs about the coffee addiction that Dad and Des have. It became the daily comedy show as they would retell there stories of trying to find a decent coffee in all the far flung places we were visiting. It got so bad that when they discovered a jar of nescafe in a market they celebrated like they had just won the lottery and took that everywhere they went along with some long life milk and made their own cuppa wherever they could get there hands on hot water.

Imagine the euphoria when they discovered that Vientiane actually had real coffee shops! They were in heaven and (they say due to the rain) they spent most of that night and the next day right here!



The next day Paul and I spent in the office sorting wood and making plans and by mid afternoon we were all finished. Our work was done! We caught up with the oldies for coffee and then went out for a good dinner which was a nice way to finish things off.
At 6am the next morning we were all packed up and ready to go. First stop was the airport to drop Paul off so that he could catch his flight home to Australia. For the three of us left we followed our nose (and missed the turn off) to the bridge to take us back over the Mekong and into Thailand. No problems here and we made good time to Udon Thani were with a few phone calls managed to find a pub called the Irish Clock. I had been told that their breakfasts were really good so for research purposes for my shop thought I would check them out. It was pretty good (especially if you are from England) but I still prefer Peppers Big Breakfast with our home made bread and superior coffee.

It was here that we bid farewell to Des. He had a flight booked to Bangkok as he wanted to go and check out Kanchanupburi and Hua Hin for a few days before joining us back in Ubon.

That left just Dad and I and we had a nice easy drive all the way back home to Ubon arriving back a little after 4pm to some very excited kids.

It was a great trip, a lot of fun, a little bit of work and really good company. Thank you Dad, Paul and Des for your companionship and I hope that this isn’t the last time we get to do it!

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## MeMock



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## Nawty

Great report...

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## the dogcatcher

Great work.
Green in the post.

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## bobbysan124

Very informative and nice pics.  Thanks.

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## SiamRick

That sure is beautiful countryside, which is why I was so taken by Laos with my first visit to lower Laos this past winter, when I crossed to Tha Khek from Nakhon Phanom. I find the buildings and streets more attractive to the eye, too, compared to Thailand's. I really need to rent a motorbike and tour the roads and villages. Frankly, I prefer Vientiane over most places I've visited in SEA. I feel so relaxed there, well, compared to Bangkok.

Thanks MeMock for taking us on your journey. Will be up your way in Ubon this autumn and get a proper visit to the city (and Peppers.   :Smile: )

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## Marmite the Dog

> No problems here and we made good time to Udon Thani


I don't remember meeting up for a beer...  :Confused:

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## the dogcatcher

Must have a "few" beers Termite.

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## MeMock

> Originally Posted by MeMock
> 
> No problems here and we made good time to Udon Thani
> 
> 
> I don't remember meeting up for a beer...


Yeah sorry about that mate. It wasn't planned until the last 24 hours that my friend needed to be dropped of in your neck of the woods. We had breakfast and were gone 30 minutes later.

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## mysticpaki

Memock
Could you help me out
Plan on spending 25 days in laos starting from the border across Chiangrai would appreciate your advise and itenary as interested in seeing nature greenary and waterfalls.
We enjoy renting scooters but cant go cross city as we have bigger bags with us.
im at cliche61at h o t maildot com 
Really would appreciate if you could advise me of an itenary with hotel names around 500 baht a night
Many thanks
Eddie

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## MeMock

Hi Eddie,

I have no idea about the end of Laos you have mentioned. May I suggest another forum that I occasionally read that will have all the information you would require.

The Golden Triangle Rider &bull; The Golden Triangle Rider

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## Kees5

Thanks you MeMock, for an interesting travel report.


>There bikes were left over from the Vietnam war<

Don't want to be pedantic, but in that part of the world it is called "The American war'.

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## Kees5

To MysticPaki: 

From Houay Xai, 4 obvious options:
1. By boat to Luang Prabang
2. By boat to Luang Namtha Enquire at HS guesthouses). Beautiful trip,  two days on the river, stop overnight in Boatmen's village (BanKonKham).  Costly, but worth it IMHO.
3. By bus to Luang Namtha, 3-4 hrs by road.
4. Speedboat up the Mekong to Chiang Kok. From there by songthow by road to Muang Sing. Stay a few days around MS, lots to do.

if you take #3 or #2, you can also go up to MS by bus.

After a couple of days in MS or/and in LN (Trekking, different ethnic  villages), take a bus to Luang Prabang. Stay 2 or 3 days, enjoy the  atmosphere.

Now decide if you want to try and cover all of Laos or only the North.  If all, go south by bus, Vientiane, Thakek, SavannahKhet (I know MeMock  avoided it, but it is a pretty old town, pakse, 4000 Islands.

Of only the North, go by bus to Houaphan (Sam neua), where the Vietcong  government lived in the caves during the war. Certainly worth the trip,  and getting there takes you through some great countryside.
From there, south to the plane of Jars (Phonsavan). Then by bus down to Vientiane.

I thnk maybe 2 weeks is a it short to see all of Laos.

Enjoy!

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## kingwilly

> Thanks you MeMock, for an interesting travel report.
> 
> 
> >There bikes were left over from the Vietnam war<
> 
> Don't want to be pedantic, but in that part of the world it is called "The American war'.


Well given that the majority of the TD readership is either European, American or a colonial I think Vietnam War would be the appropriate tag. To the best of my knowledge, TD does not have too many Laotian or Vietnamese members....

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## Kees5

Well, when in Rome, do like the Romans....

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## Tasmaniagirl

Exactly right! it is called the "American War"


> Well, when in Rome, do like the Romans....

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## Tasmaniagirl

> Originally Posted by Kees5
> 
> 
> Thanks you MeMock, for an interesting travel report.
> 
> 
> >There bikes were left over from the Vietnam war<
> 
> Don't want to be pedantic, but in that part of the world it is called "The American war'.
> ...


You would be surprised actually how many Laotian and Vietnamese  frequent this forum, makes an interesting English lesson :ourrules:

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## Marmite the Dog

> Thanks you MeMock, for an interesting travel report.
> 
> 
> >There bikes were left over from the Vietnam war<
> 
> Don't want to be pedantic, but in that part of the world it is called "The American war'.


I thought it was called the 'Kicking Seppo Ass War'?

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## grasshopper

> Originally Posted by Kees5
> 
> 
> Thanks you MeMock, for an interesting travel report.
> 
> 
> >There bikes were left over from the Vietnam war<
> 
> Don't want to be pedantic, but in that part of the world it is called "The American war'.
> ...


Wonder if any bikes will be left over from the "Kick the Infidels' arse war/s one day? 

 :mid:

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## ossierob

Wonderful thread MeMock...you do seem to be keeping yourself gainfully occupied and spreading it about with this post....thanks

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## Phuketrichard

> 


Thanks for the report and pics.  I am planning a trip this july but will be starting way up north ( Chiang Khon) and heading all the way south to the Cambodia border. and then all thru Cambodia.
The roads look very good and little traffic. I realize this was a while ago but what do u think traffic is like now>

I will be posting as i go, ( as long as i can access the net)

Anyplace i  MUST see i know about the caves north of LB and the thousand islands near the Cambodian border
Did u visit the Hena sa waterfall south of Pakxe?

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## MeMock

Too late now I'm sure but better late then never. 

I have never been south of Pakse sorry but hope to do so next time. Did you make it over there and if so please post some pics.

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## fishlocker

https://teakdoor.com/Gallery/albums/u...480.JPGAnother   I may need another Jimmy beam and  east side brew by the time I post a proper pic....this!!!

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## fishlocker

This is over the Don river heading south into Pakse. It may be the bridge you were held up at.Sorry I can hardly post this let alone straighten it.Yes the water flow is south to the South China Sea.

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## fishlocker

All we get are smiles. But we are going in the right direction.

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## Phuketrichard

hhahaha;
did the Phuket-northern Thailand-laos-cambodia- Phuket 
twice since  this post.
2012  Phuket- Lampang- Chiang Khong- Lunag Namtha- Luang Prabang- Vientiane- Savanakhet-  Surin- Siem Rep- Preah Vihear- (https://teakdoor.com/cambodia-forum/1...ah-vihear.html (Trip report -Siem Reap to Preah Vihear)) 
Phnom Phen- Battambang- Pailin- Bangkok- Phuket 
an 
2013   Phuket- Tak- Mae Hong Son- Fang- Chiang Khong- Luangg Namtha- Luang Prabang- Phonsvan ( plain of jars) Vientiane - Surin- Siem Rep- Phnom Phen- Kep/Kampot- Phnom Phen- Siem Rep- Poi Pet- Bangkok- Phuket

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## MeMock

Haha fish locker - yep that was the bridge - going in the correct direction! Could be the same copper as well!

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