#  >  > Travellers Tales in Thailand and Asia >  >  > Vietnam, Nepal and Burma  Travel Forum >  >  I'm banging around Bagan for a few days, check it out.

## terry57

Ok then, after 4 days of exploring Yangon its on the plane and into Bagan. Bagan's claim to fame is that between the 7th and 13th century 10,000 temples, pagodas and monasteries where built on the plains just outside of the city. In 1975 there was a massive earthquake and many where destroyed with approx 2200 surviving today. Bagan's main income is from Tourism but it is also the center of the lacquer-ware industry in Burma.  Bagan is 700 klm North from Yangon and a short hop on the plane ,a nice little town as its flat and good for walking around . Anyway its an early start to the day and we are checking in for our flight. The domestic terminal in Yangon ain't like the new International terminal, its a very basic affair with chaotic check in  and boarding procedures.

----------


## terry57

We arrived in Bagan on a twin prop Jet. A bus transported us the short distance to the terminal but the luggage was unloaded and pushed to the Terminal by the ground staff, Boys earning there money. Very laid back airport with only 2 other planes sitting around.

----------


## The Ghost Of The Moog

Lucky you. Bagan is a remarkable place, and in my opinion finer than Anghkor.

----------


## terry57

Funny joint this as the passengers just wander into the terminal whilst the staff mill around, hard to pick out who was working there and who was a tourist. Not too worried about security here.

----------


## terry57

We just wandered into the door on the right whilst the staff walked out.Welcome to Bagan airport, I loved the laid back feel after the strict security of most airports these days.

----------


## terry57

Once you clear customs its straight outside and confronted by The official bank money changer. So easy to change money and hassle free. What do you notice ?
No Backpackers, mainly older travelers going solo and organized tour groups. I'm still getting over this as I thought Burma would be crawling with Backpackers but definitely not the case. It wont be long though before they crack on.Get here soon.

----------


## terry57

Wander outside the Airport into the car park and your confronted with an empty car park. You buy a transfer inside and they take you to your hotel. Too easy. Very organized and hassle free Burma was.

----------


## terry57

If you are one of the monied elite you will be doing the world class balloon flight over the temples at the crack of Dawn. Big business this is, around $350 for the flight. Myself don't do Dawn and I prefer to spend $ 350 on other things.Be a brilliant flight thou.

----------


## terry57

Next stop was the Thante hotel, I highly recommend this hotel as you have your own large Bungalow in nice gardens. We payed around $60 but prices are skyrocketing in Burma for accommodation simply because tourism is outstripping rooms in the high season. We prebooked all our accommodation on this trip which I have never done before much preferring to free lance.Lucky we did as we heard of some people leaving because of a lack of digs. Every place we stayed in had no vacant rooms for walk ins.

----------


## terry57

Nice large reception with separate restaurant, bakery and beer garden. Great breakfast by the way with a different variety on most mornings.

----------


## terry57

> Lucky you. Bagan is a remarkable place, and in my opinion finer than Angkor.



Angkor Wat blew my mind the first time I seen it, To see the temples of Bagan unfold before you in the late afternoon is also a world class sight. 

These things must been seen to be believed,  Photos and the written word just don't cut it but carry on regardless. 

Equally Important is to visit in the cool season as its a massive day out touring the Temples and sights of Bagan.  All too hard in the hot season and not appreciated as much.

----------


## aging one

Was last there over 30 years ago. I am really enjoying your Burma threads. Keep the photos and commentary coming.  :Smile:

----------


## taxexile

I also was there ages ago, in 1984.

Drove up to mandalay from rangoon in an old jeep, took a couple of days, and then on to bagan.

Bagan was incredible, we rented cycles and rode around there for two or three days, hardly saw another person and clambered all over the temples which were mostly in a state of ruin.

The place was very atmospheric and indiana jonesish.  a few farmers herding their cattle and small agricultural plots set amongst the temples and pagodas.  

Looking forward to seeing your photos of how it looks now.

----------


## sunsetter

great stuff tel, keep it coming  ::chitown:: 

burmas on the list.....

----------


## terry57

I"m looking back on the reception and standing in the large garden area. bloody nice it was, very happy here, its on the edge off town within walking distance of most things.

----------


## terry57

First thing one see's on walking through the reception is the very nice pool area.

----------


## terry57

Our Gaff, large Bungalow with all the fruit complete with very large bathroom. Brilliant it was for our 3 days.

----------


## terry57

It was an early check inn which enabled us to get an early start walking the pavement. No plan, just start walking and see what comes up. My favorite way to travel and explore.Bagan is a small town with a country sort of feel. I really liked it as the locals where in no hurry at all. Once again, not a lot of tourists on the street.Heading into town where ever that was.

----------


## Butterfly

nice, last time I was in Pagan, there were almost no hotels, and mine was a complete shithole for which I paid 2000 THB a night

----------


## the dogcatcher

Just a shame about the cost of the hotels.
Looks lovely.

----------


## terry57

Local restaurant on the right and the main market in the back ground. This was the main street.

----------


## terry57

> Just a shame about the cost of the hotels.
> Looks lovely.


Last year that hotel was $40 next high season will more than likely be $80 - $90. Hotels are charging whatever they feel relevant as there ain't enough rooms.

Landlords are getting very rich. Start up a Decent Backpackers and one would become a millionaire in future years.

Burma is on the brink of a tourist explosion. They dont realise whats coming there way.

----------


## terry57

Bit of water lying around and a rough exterior present but a town full of personality.

----------


## terry57

Sitting in the restaurant having a nice cup of tea and the bullock cart wanders along.

----------


## terry57

The bullocks mingle with whatever is going down at the time.

----------


## terry57

There are some ancient vehicles getting around, love the radiator on the roof providing a trickle feed.

----------


## terry57

Big daddy and son.

----------


## terry57

^

There just not geared up for mass tourism full stop. They will love the money it will bring though especially the Military Junta and the Millions of dollars that will fill there coffers. 

Bagan will end up choka block full of Backpackers with rave music blasting out of restaurants.   I can see it now,  another Laos,  Vang Vieng coming at ya.

Sucks hard, so glad I went this year.

----------


## the dogcatcher

^ As long as they have a beautiful clean river.

----------


## terry57

Heading in to the local market for a look see.

----------


## terry57

The Burmese really seem to be obsessed with trying to do there best to keep the place clean. I'm in the depth of the market and there is no visible rubbish lying around. Good stuff and a sign of proud people.

----------


## terry57

Local lasses doing the sowing.

----------


## Rural Surin

Nice bit of a thread, Tel!
Enjoying your tales [others] on this current escape.

Cheers! :Smile:

----------


## terry57

Anybody's guess what this abolition could be but I think it fell out of the back end of one of those bullocks.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

----------


## terry57

Many very old wooden houses around which I really like to see. Also notice the boys using the push cart to get there stuff around. Manual labor is still the flavour of the day which leaves the streets relatively free off trucks and such. Once again, it wont be long before the streets are full of new cars and trucks.

----------


## terry57

The local transport, no room on there for us smelly farang.

----------


## terry57

The horse and cart is big business in Bagan, its great to see them plying the streets doing business. We hired one for a day to tour the Temples. $20 for the day plus the driver spoke good English so we got his services as a tour guide for free. Brilliant.

----------


## cambtek

Burma is too expensive for backpackers, thank Christ.

----------


## terry57

The mighty Irrawaddy river flows through Bagan, I spotted this lane running off the main road so hung a right and headed down it.

----------


## terry57

These two friendly little kids greeted me.

----------


## draco888

great pics, keep them coming

----------


## terry57

I think this was there house, no Sat TV or A/C in there. Lots of poverty in Burma still and many people scratching out a living hence the importance of trying to send some money there way.

----------


## terry57

> Burma is too expensive for backpackers, thank Christ.



Yes, the Backpacker Question and why they ain't invading in hordes yet. ???

The only reason is that they do think it is too expensive but that ain't necessarily correct. The price of food and drinks is the same as Thailand, two people sharing a room is reasonable and certainly affordable if you stayed in the gaffs we did.

Airasia fly's there and back for piss all.

Bus transport between towns is cheap and reliable, many people we met doing the buses between towns.

Exchange rate is good also.  The only thing that can become very expensive is if one gets caught out for accommodation and must pay top dollar for a room. 

Hope they don't read this thread, I could be held responsible for a Backpacker Invasion.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): 

Anyway it was bloody brilliant to be in a destination that ain't been taken over yet by the dreaded Backpackers.

----------


## terry57

We are over looking the Irrawaddy river. This was massive and in the wet season the river extends to cover the sand flats.

----------


## terry57

This is one serious river, would love to see it in flood.

----------


## terry57

The locals use it as the  laundry and also the ablution block I would imagine.

----------


## terry57

I have a great zoom on my camera so I'm right in there for the shot.

----------


## terry57

So we decide to follow some goat track to further view the river and come across this place around the bend so in we go for a look see.

----------


## terry57

Turns out to be the most expensive restaurant in town over looking the river. These are Package tour french dudes enjoying a lovely afternoon in Bagan. We sat down and had lunch.The staff where a tad surprised to see us emerge from the scrub. :Smile:

----------


## terry57

A very nice environment indeed and would of been all the go at night time. Don't forget to bring a fist full of dollars though.

----------


## terry57

Time to get back to the very important business of being a tourist, follow that walkway back to the main road.

----------


## terry57

Yes, that is where we were. Check it out if in town.

----------


## terry57

We are heading back to our hotel for some frothy refreshments and passed this interesting shop. Lots of good stuff in there.

----------


## terry57

They must get some serious rain in this town as this is a serious drain.

----------


## terry57

We have been walking around all day and have returned to our hotel ready to settle in for a few cold beers.  The restaurant has put out there Pizza Sign so that is our evening meal sorted. Beers and Pizza, bloody fabulous.

----------


## terry57

There is an ajoining beer garden. They have hung out the welcome sign,  that was enough to send me week at the knees.

----------


## terry57

So it was a bolt back to the room for a quick scrub up then a sprint back to the pub and head long into my favorite brew, that being Stout if there is no Dark Beer Lao available, which there wasn't.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):  Happy days punters. That's day one done and tomorrow its on the horse and cart for a nice day touring the Awesome temples of Bagan.   Nice town this one.

----------


## gusG

You are a legend Terry, great thread.

----------


## terry57

^

I'm not as good as you Gus, you have an awesome hotel on Koh Samui and I ain't.

Cheers, I'll come see you again one day soon.

----------


## draco888

> They must get some serious rain in this town as this is a serious drain.


that drain would be better deeper and narrower.

----------


## Thetyim

That's the cleanest drain I have seen for years.

----------


## khmen

Really enjoying this Terry, looking forward to your pics round the temples.  :Smile:  

Been hearing a lot about the prices of hotels rising etc, I'm mightily pissed off I never got round to visiting Burma a few years back. Still, I think it's definitely on the agenda next time I visit the region, hopefully I arrive there before the advent of mass tourism.  :Smile:

----------


## sabang

I'm planning on checking it out, I reckon I might even lux it a bit (I can always say it's because of mrs sab, to retain a bit of street cred). Strictly five star or no star me, not much into where the packages go. Nice to hear pagan is an interesting town too, cheers Terry.

----------


## beerlaodrinker

Once again youve given us the skinny on burma , great stuff , keep em coming

----------


## Bobcock

where's the temples???

Nice one Terry, keep it coming

----------


## crocman

Top thread Tezza,good pics too.Another place on the list.

List just keeps getting bigger.

----------


## Marmite the Dog

Lots of 'we' mentioned. You've not kidnapped Emma and taken him/her/it away from Socal have you?

----------


## the dogcatcher

On the pizza menu Tell, wot does 3500 equate to?

----------


## terry57

^

3500 divide 680 =  $ 5.14 cents AUD times 30 baht =  150 Baht .

Not bad is it ?

----------


## terry57

> Lots of 'we' mentioned. You've not kidnapped Emma and taken him/her/it away from Socal have you?



I'm a solo traveler,  once a year I team up with my lady friend for a big trip going to new destinations.    25 years on still going.

Next year will be Japan.

----------


## aging one

A and my are quite different there Romeo.  :Smile:  Keep it all coming mate. 25 years, more power to ya.

----------


## terry57

Anyway, after a couple of hundred stouts I'm off and back on the streets again. Riding bicycles around town is all the go but I'm not into bicycles at all, its all bolliks to me but here is the picture. Punters recon its cool to tour the Temples by bicycle but I recon there frigging nuts and its all there's. What ever EH ????

----------


## terry57

When I'm pissed up and on a roll I seem to end up in bars that are inhabited by axe murderers, don't know what that's all about and I have been advised to seek help from a Psychologist. Anyway, these guys looked like killers but in fact they where only having a nice cup of tea having a chat and watching the premier league football on the Sat TV. disappointing really.   :Smile:

----------


## terry57

I'm just about on the verge of passing out so its into the shitter to pay my respects to DD, a quick piss and heading home for a nice sleep  .Love ya DD.

----------


## terry57

Next morning I'm up at the crack of Dawn 9.00AM  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): . Have a quick bite to eat, a shit and a shower then outside the hotel is this fine looking stead looking for a punter for a day trip. I'm won over and he is the ride for the day.

----------


## terry57

Here is the Boss man, cant remember his name, Elvis or something like that.
Great dude, banged us around all day from 10.00AM till 5.00PM for $20.  Had a brilliant day with this guy, real casual like, stop when we wanted to. Really nice stuff.
Slung him a nice tip for not pissing us around.

----------


## natalie8

Great threead, T57. You should work for Burma Tourism. Greenage if I can.

----------


## terry57

Wright then, its jump in the rig and lets start heading towards the temples. Considering I'm a new age guy and well tuned into Female feelings it was me in the front and her in the back. Off we go. Good innit.  :Smile:

----------


## terry57

> Great thread, T57. You should work for Burma Tourism.



Thanks Nat.

That wont work simply because I call it as I see it. I tell it through my eyes and don't pander to the masses.

Totally independent.

----------


## natalie8

Well, you've sold me!  :Smile:  And I couldn't green you cuz I greened you on your first Burma thread. Love the horse and cart, BTW.

----------


## terry57

Down the main street and the dudes working there push cart.

----------


## terry57

Bagan ain't Bangkok so its only a few KLM out of town and one is in the sticks. Temples are cranking up already.Notice the lack of traffic,  this is the peak of the high season. Cant last for too much longer can it ??

----------


## terry57

This vehicle is Eons old and transports tourists to there early morning Balloon flight. Beautiful machine and worthy of being in a museum .

----------


## Thetyim

^
CMP Truck, circa 1943

(Might even be a Ford CMP built in Oz)

----------


## Dillinger

Great stuff terrence,  as per all your piccy threads.  Cheers for sharing

----------


## gusG

Terry, best you take a sickie from work and get on with this thread.

I'm sure nothing will burn down, until you get back.

----------


## Cujo

Terry, were there any obvious signs of military control, security on the streets?

----------


## terry57

^
None at all, the people where carrying on with there business same as everywhere else, hardly seen a police patrol but did see a few jeeps getting around with army personal packing AK47's. They seemed to be just going about there business though.

The golden rule for the locals is not to discus politics or criticize the Military Junta in public  as they will be dragged away for interrogation. This is there problem still as they are not free in a Democratic sense to express there views on the Government but seem to be free in all other ways. 

Very important when visiting to never talk Politics to them in Public as you place them in Danger if a Government Official is in Ear shot.

Things are changing though as Sat TV and Internet are a new thing to them and that's why the majority of normal people are ignorant to whats actually going on in the outside world. They had zero contact in the past.

Hence why I say they have no Idea whats about to happen when the tourist invasion kicks in.Its fantastic at the moment with the people having a sense of innocence about them.

I imagine Thailand would of been the same in the Sixties before the Vietnam war bought the invasion of US troops to there shores on R & R.

The world spread about how fantastic Thailand was and here it is today.

----------


## terry57

OK, Bagan is all about the Temples spread over the plains but I cant go posting lots of pics of those as the thread will end up boring as bat shit. As I said before you need to see this with your own eyes to take it in so I'll just post up a few to give you an idea what its all about.

----------


## Bobcock

At last a fucking temple.....




> I cant go posting lots of pics as those as the thread will end up boring as bat shit.


Bollocks....some of us really are here for the temples and more importantly photographs of them.....

----------


## terry57

They start about 5 KLM out of town and just keep on going, its nuts really. Anyway our man has taken us to this large one that you can climb up onto and look out over the plain. Bloody awesome in real life.The best time to do the viewing is dawn and dusk but I don't do Dawn simply because when my day of touring is done I want to bang down so nice cold beers but we where there for Dusk which was quite amazing really. The early morning balloon flight would be mind blowing but I'll never make that one. National Geographic produced a Doco on the Balloon flight this year. I'm yet to see it.Many different viewing areas around which are visited at different times of the day.

----------


## terry57

This is a sand painting of what all the fuss is  about and what one could actually see if you went up in the balloon on the early morning flight. Be brilliant really.

----------


## Bobcock

Isn't there also a hill that allows you a good view over the area?

----------


## terry57

> At last a fucking temple.....
> 
> Some of us really are here for the temples and more importantly photographs of them.....


Oh shit, yes Bobby I believe you are here for the Temples.  :Smile: 

I'd get run off TeakDoor if I filled a thread with a shit load of Temples and Pictures of Buddha.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

----------


## terry57

When you enter the Airport there's a booth where you pay $10 for a ticket that gets you into the Archeological zone, Just cough the money up and job done for your trip.
It goes back into restoring the Temples and provides work for the locals so its OK.

----------


## terry57

Your $10 bucks goes to these guys who make bricks by manual labor out on the plains. Jesus, they had a full on factory happening out here using a few shovels a mixer and a mold.

----------


## the dogcatcher

^ Great pics.
Think they might like an English person to work on that sign though.

----------


## terry57

One guy digging out the clay, another dude carries it and another one mixing. No sick leave here that's for sure.

----------


## terry57

At the end of the process they end up with a massive wedge of bricks all knocked out with minimal use of a machine. In the Background is the Irrawaddy river and another nasty Temple hanging around to the side.

----------


## terry57

> Isn't there also a hill that allows you a good view over the area?


There's no hill, the area is dead flat.  There are only a few select larger Temples that they allow the tourists to climb to get the Views.

All others are off limit to minimize damage. At the End of the day we went to the largest one for viewing and I have some nice pics from there. Post them up at the end of this thread.

----------


## terry57

At the end of a hard days toil these guys get to go home to there posh digs. Jeez its a long way to the shop for a Chico roll and a cold beer.

----------


## terry57

Funny thing is that at most of the Temples the locals out number the Tourists still. These people live there religion and fill these Temples.They get in for free though.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

----------


## terry57

These dolls seem to do a good business.

----------


## peterpan

Great fun to read posts terry,I have a problem posting and giving reds on tablet. So if anyone got red forgive me, not intentional.

----------


## Marmite the Dog

> I have a problem


We know.

----------


## mao say dung

Great thread, terry57. Thanks.

----------


## terry57

Inside we go and the locals are doing the business.

----------


## terry57

There is some nice stuff in here.

----------


## terry57

As at Angkor Wat the international community are sending experts to help restore.

----------


## terry57

The labor content involved in doing this work is boggling.

----------


## beerlaodrinker

> Jeez its a long way to the shop for a Chico roll and a cold beer.


I was just thinking the same thing,

----------


## terry57

This little fella was cornering the market in imagination. He was actually drawing his own postcards. I thought this was brilliant so we bought his postcards just to support him.

----------


## terry57

This sign is displayed widely in Burma. I always felt safe touring around and walking the streets.

----------


## terry57

Lunch time in the hood.

----------


## terry57

Neighborhood shop outside the Temple.

----------


## terry57

The restored Temples all have there own caretaker during the day. There's quite a few small ones on the circuit mixed in with the big suckers. You get the drift EH.

----------


## terry57

Another fine example of a Teak house.

----------


## peterpan

> Originally Posted by peterpan
> 
> I have a problem
> 
> 
> We know.


 Whats that smell or did someone just fart? sorry n terry. I know its bad form to  interrupt someonne elses great thread

----------


## Latindancer

Thanks for all the great pics, Terry. And I'm glad you picked a buggy driver who looks after his horse. It's a little bit thin, but this is Asia.
Just a minor technical question : why does that squat toilet have a chain going into it ? I've never seen anything like that. Does it go to a plug ? And if so, why ???

----------


## Sailing into trouble

Way to go Terry but have you been around Wigan in the Monsoon Season?

----------


## terry57

^^^

don't worry Peter, we all know Marmite gets a bit antsy this time of day. 

Its the withdrawal symptoms kicking in.  :Smile:

----------


## terry57

> Just a minor technical question : why does that squat toilet have a chain going into it ? I've never seen anything like that.



Urm, cant help you Mate, usually too pissed up that time of night to worry about such technical Issue's. 

Usually just gagging for a piss.   :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

----------


## terry57

> Have you been around Wigan in the Monsoon Season?


Nope cant say I have,  is it anywhere near Koh San Road ?   :Smile:

----------


## terry57

We are getting hungry so its time to put the nose bag on. back on the trusty horse and off to the restaurant. down the road we passed a bunch of package tourists, they come along in waves and then disappear.

----------


## terry57

If your a filthy rich bastard trying to impress your partner you might want to rent this Royal coach. Anyway I didnt feel the need. Rather spend my excess dollars on Stout.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

----------


## terry57

On the way there we chucked a quick lap down by the river.

----------


## Cujo

Awesome thread and great pics.
Be quick, t'll be like Thailand before you know it.

----------


## Mr Lick

Fascinating display of temples Terry. Very grateful for your input, next stop Burma!  :Smile:

----------


## terry57

We rock into this restaurant and sit down. Not many punters in there but after 5 minutes or so this lot rock in. Soon after an invasion of locals are coming out of the wood work and surrounded the restaurant just standing there gagging for a look at these people. Turned out a few of them where famous movie stars from Burma and where there touring the Temples. The locals got quite the hard on.

----------


## terry57

Being famous must be a pain in the arse EH. Cant even eat your sarnie without muppets milling around.

----------


## terry57

This restaurant had a set menu for lunch. There was only two of us and this is what they trotted out. Bloody good it was.

----------


## terry57

I'm a small eater at the best of times so this was quite over the top. The charge was around $10 all up so a blinding deal really and enough food to feed all of Burma in one sitting.

----------


## terry57

After a good feed it was back to being a tourist. Next stop was in to a shop that made, dealed and sold lacquer-ware.  Bagan is the largest producer of lacqer-ware in Burma. This was a long running family run business with the females sitting at the front of the shop shining the product all day long.

----------


## terry57

The lads worked in the back room with this generator running when the power went down. Great way to get poisoned but they seem to survive it.

----------


## terry57

We received the grand tour of the business by the owner and they had the extended family involved in the production. The little room at the back was where it all went down.

----------


## terry57

All hand produced with bugger all machines.

----------


## terry57

The lads hard at it.

----------


## terry57

It was getting around 4.30PM so time to head back to the Temples for the afternoon viewing.

----------


## terry57

Passed these on the way.

----------


## terry57

I tuned my driver in early in the peace that I'm not big on being around bulk tourists and drummed him up that he would be nicely compensated if he gives us a nice tour away from the muppets. He picked this nearly deserted Temple for our afternoon viewing. I was well pleased with his effort and he did get a nice wedge at the end of the day.

----------


## terry57

So it was climb up the to the top for quite an unforgettable spectacle.

----------


## terry57

This is my money shot and the best I could do with my point and shoot camera. Gives you an Idea of what its all about. If these were not here the place would be unknown to tourists same as Siem Reap. Bloody great to see though, the balloon gig would be just awesome in the early morning.

----------


## terry57

In a few years one will not be able to get a picture like this as it will be full of tourists arriving for the afternoon viewing.

----------


## terry57

There's crops planted around some of those temples. A few wells drilled I imagine to provide water but bloody dry out here. The mind boggles how they managed to build 10,000 of these things all those centuries ago.

----------


## Cujo

Image the scene in its heyday, there would've been many many wooden houses and a city there I imagine, the temples standing above the city, like Churches in an old european town/city. (in my imagination that is. I actually haven't a clue)

----------


## terry57

Considering the temples where built over centuries its not hard to imagine it was New York City down there catering for all the workers.

Wonder where they all went and what really happened. History tells a story but I wonder how accurate it is. ? 

Not very I'd say, no one really knows.

----------


## terry57

Which ever way one looks from this view point it was Temples left right and center.

----------


## terry57

Bare with me here. I'm going to post up a few of these shots mainly for my own reference to look back on.

----------


## terry57



----------


## terry57



----------


## terry57



----------


## terry57



----------


## terry57

Right then, that's the Jewel of Bagan done and dusted so its back on the horse and off to the Koh San road of Bagan. Dam Tourists, there everywhere.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

----------


## terry57

As we approach town we hit the bus station.

----------


## terry57

This is the typical tourist bus, there new, safe and reliable.Travelers we spoke to where quite happy traveling long distance in these buses. Not for me though.

----------


## terry57

We get our man to drop us of at the start of Koh San Road and leg it down the street looking for a welcoming Pub so we can wash the dust down.

----------


## terry57

Starting to hit the big smoke, this is a long street, maybe 2 klm and at the moment not many pubs and restaurants. In a few years it really will be Koh San Road as this is the only street in town that caters to Tourists.

----------


## terry57

Part time Taxi.

----------


## terry57

The big thing is to hire a push bike and do a do it yourself tour of the Temples. Pull that on and you would see piss all. Its a big day out there with heaps to see. Seen some old bints near on having a stroke trying to be all cool peddling away, not to mention the 3rd degree burns from the sun . Jam that punters.

----------


## terry57

I must say this street had a great atmosphere happening. Brilliant when the sun went down.

----------


## terry57

Its a funny thing when one travels as you always seem to run into random people you have connected with weeks ago in another city.Anyway we are walking past this Pub and get called inside by the Canadian dude and his wife we met on our first day in Yangon. Next thing out of the blue this Pommy dude rocks up we had connected with as well. No need to say what happened next is there.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

----------


## terry57

I've had a few dozen tasty beers and need to take a well earned slash so into my mind pops our deceased leader DD. I always pay my respects to DD when I'm in the shitter as he loved shitter shots. Here is a nasty one DD. Just for you mate.  :UK:

----------


## terry57

Anyway I don't do nasty shitters unless I'm dead desperate, I'd much rather go to this lovely one connected to the restaurant. Don't know what the fluro light was all about but in my pissed up state I did not care.  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

----------


## terry57

After a massive session of drinking dark ale, fun and laughter it was out of the Pub and off home. I snapped this pic of a trendy arse restaurant which was trying to get the punters In. Wasn't working as they where down in our pub getting out of it. Not my style these trendy arse places, I like to be down with the humans.

----------


## terry57

That's it for day two so its umbrellas packed away and into bed. This is big day touring the Temples, be ready to put in the effort to gain the reward. Way it is.

----------


## terry57

Day 3 beckons. I wake up wondering where I am and what happened last night. I just laid there for a few hours like this guy. Well worth it though.  :Smile:

----------


## terry57

Around lunch time I come good and spent the rest of the day Hanging around the pool. Eye candy was good. Thats day 3 done and tomorrow its on the road " or plane " to Mandalay.

----------


## terry57

In conclusion here is the skinny on Bagan.

Pre book your accommodation.

Don't piss around renting a push bike to tour the Temples. Lot of horse shit that is, Rent a horse and driver for $20 a day.

Come in the cool season as trying to do this tour in the hot season would be totally draining and you more than likely wont enjoy it.Just too hard and too much to see. Stagger it over 2 days maybe.

Don't get pissed up the night before, once again to far to come and too much to see to ruin it with a hang over.

Wait till the last night like I did.  :Smile: 

Hope you enjoyed Bagan, bloody good wasn't it. 

Cheers.

----------


## Necron99

Good stuff Tez.

----------


## Cujo

> In conclusion here is the skinny on Bagan.
> 
> Pre book your accommodation.
> 
> Come in the cool season as trying to do this tour in the hot season would be totally draining and you more than likely wont enjoy it.Just too hard and too much to see. Stagger it over 2 days maybe.
> 
> Don't get pissed up the night before, once again to far to come and too much to see to ruin it with a hang over.
> 
> Wait till the last night like I did. 
> ...


Cheers Terry, great thread.
Can't green you yet though.

----------


## terry57

These next series of photos where taken by my friend so I'll add them on to this thread. They will be random shots. Street restaurant Yangon.

----------


## terry57

Yangon. The lady making Pan.

----------


## terry57

No need to go hungry in Yangon.

----------


## terry57

Average Yangon gaffs.

----------


## terry57

Another street side enterprise.

----------


## terry57

Recycled hard ware.

----------


## terry57

Yangon chemist shop.

----------


## terry57

This guy has even made it to Burma.

----------


## terry57

Yangon nuns.

----------


## terry57

Yangon pilgrims.

----------


## terry57

Biriani in Yangon.

----------


## terry57

Yangon street vendor. In the background is a Chinese made " Cherry " Car. many in the city.

----------


## terry57

When this guy is in the hood political discussion is strictly taboo.

----------


## terry57

Some nasty white guy banging around Yangon.

----------


## terry57

Kids doing the rounds.

----------


## Thetyim

^ ^
Is that a fire extinguisher on his back ?

----------


## terry57

They where working this area for donations.

----------


## terry57

Monks on there morning rounds. Taken from the " Motherland inn 2 " in Yangon.

----------


## terry57

On the circle line Yangon.

----------


## terry57

Locals going about there business on the circle line.

----------


## terry57

Not happy Jan, no room on the train.

----------


## Latindancer

Quite a racial melting pot. Some Burmese people look really very Indian (like that kid in the train above), yet there are apparently some others in an area in Western Burma who are descended from Tibetan people.

----------


## terry57

^

Yep, hard to pick the locals sometimes.

----------


## Latindancer

Shintaro The Samurai's sister prepares to lash out with a cucumber....

----------


## Big D

Do a lot of locals speak English?

----------


## johnnybegood49

Great thread Terry, I for one really appreciate your time and effort.  As per your writing though, probably be a good idea to see it before it explodes with idiot tourists.

JBG49

----------


## terry57

^^

No problems with English, widely spoken.

----------


## roamer

Great photo thread, only just noticed it and viewed it all through.

Nice shots where you had many temples in view, quite a sight.

That $ 10  food feast probably would have done me for a week.

Thanks.

----------


## terry57

^

Thanks, Ill crack on soon with the last part of our trip which was Mandalay.

----------


## Albert Shagnastier

Great threat El Tel  :Smile: 

Just saw it myself - missed it before.

You said something about a "gold rush" tourism wise coming to Burma. Just an opinion, but from what i've heard (and seen in other countries like Laos) is that they need to be careful. Tourists are skint and Asian currencies are getting stronger and stronger. If they go for millionaire status too quickly they might just fail, as tourists just can't pay those high figures. Some of the asking prices for rentals in Luang Prabang would make a london estate agent look twice.

----------


## terry57

^
At the moment I have a Spanish Backpacker staying with me who has been on the road for a year and has been to most Asian countries except Burma.

I asked him why the Backpackers aren't going to Burma ? 

He told me that the word on the Backpacker circuit is that Burma is too expensive. ? 

I'm surprised to hear that as it certainly is not if approached properly. Rooms can be pricy if caught out but shared between a few scanky backpackers they ain't.  

Anyway, wont be long and it will be game on.

----------


## ossierob

Thanks Terry for the pics and story....excellent job....Have been over the border a couple of times but not far into Burma....following your story I HAVE to go and check out some of the places you experienced as it looks so cool

----------


## Yemen

Thanks for this thread Terry. 12yrs. ago not many tourists but the local people were very nice. You presented Bagan great as it is a grat place to visit ( like you say you have to see the Temples yourself ). The Irrawady is a nice river, but after 11 hours on it from Mandaly the novalty wears off. When taking pictures with a telephoto lens the little boys would run away as they must have thought I had a firearm. Their mothers had to assure them it was OK. Very ammusing as the little girls were not troubled by this. More than likely becaure of the military at the time.

----------


## terry57

^

I'm glad I went earlier this year as the arse has just dropped out of the $AUD.

Good call.

----------


## mingmong

Nice post Tel, cant green you today.

Not many back-pacers coming this way [ South Aust ] $ and it's 10o at night, arrrrrrrr

----------


## terry57

^

Yes Australia is a very expensive trip for the average Backpacker.  I wouldn't even bother as there is no value whatso ever.

----------


## Jofrey

Another spot to check out soon. 

Many thanks.

----------


## diverken

Really great thread mate.I plan to go for a look soon i hope in Nov. Thanks .

----------


## Sumocakewalk

> I tuned my driver in early in the peace that I'm not big on being around bulk tourists and drummed him up that he would be nicely compensated if he gives us a nice tour away from the muppets. He picked this nearly deserted Temple for our afternoon viewing. I was well pleased with his effort and he did get a nice wedge at the end of the day.


Your threads on Burma are very inspiring. I had not thought too seriously about a full blown visit until seeing your photos and descriptions. This particular temple looks very similar to the big white chedi at Ayutthaya. They don't seem to know a lot about its origin other than believing it was built by a Burmese conqueror after the city was sacked and perhaps there is an historic connection between the two temples.

So far my only experience with Burma has been a recent trip up from Kanchanaburi to the Three Pagodas Pass. I have a strong interest in the history of the Thai-Burma Railway and rode the train from Kanchanburi to the line's end at Sai Yok Noi, then drove the rest of the way to the pass. On the Thai side of the border there are a few shops and a lawn area with the 3 small pagodas. The Burma side looked like a rural village from what I could see. The paved road ended on the Thai side and rutted dirt trails were all I could see on the other side. Thais could cross the border for a visit and my wife and MIL took a short jaunt, but farang were not allowed to so I had to wait on the Thai side. I'd like to see some of the Thanbyuzayat area in Burma where the railway connected with the Burma system, but I suspect it's not really a place that is set up for tourists, yet anyway.

----------


## terry57

^

Its a nice trip up to the Three Pagoda Pass.  Some really nice spots up there specially if you have wheels to get around.

----------


## Albert Shagnastier

> He told me that the word on the Backpacker circuit is that Burma is too expensive. ?


Exactly what my mate told me. Cos it's just opened up, there's a lack of accommodation, so those that own hotels/guest houses screw the punters as they've nowhere to stay otherwise.

199bt mosquito tents sort that - fuck the room  :Smile:

----------


## terry57

^

Outside high season one could possibly be OK just flying in a getting accommodation at a fair price.

In the High season rooms skyrocket simply because there are not enough and its very wise to pre book ones rooms and actually plan the trip carefully.

I like to wing it and free lance but was so glad we Pre booked the entire trip.

Would of had problems getting a room if we had not and any decent room available the locals could ask what they want.  

Huge business opportunities for the locals who have money to build hotels and guesthouses.

Burma's tourism will go nuts especially when the stinky backpackers start to flood in.

----------


## Phuketrichard

thanks for the photos, now gives me an idea what to expect, heading to Mandalay and Bagan on the 15th. Have not been there since 1988 and am sure it has changed a bit

question concerning $$

did u use mostly $ or the local Kyat

Between Mandalay and Bagan, you flew , BUT how about the express boat one way and train back?  I know there like 8-10 hours but seems like great opportunities to see, meet an photograph locals

----------


## terry57

^
I used Aussie $, changed everywhere no probs, Euro, USD, Singapore $ all good. Changed to local money and used that except for Hotels where we payed in $ US .   

Don't know about the boat except that high end tour companies ply the river but I'm sure you could do it locally. 

Interesting thing about the Train.  I thought this would be a great way to go but I never seen any Foreigners using the train. ????

Let me know if you suss it out.

----------


## Phuketrichard

Thanks, will do, i booked for the 15th 2 days ago an than this happened, Violence breaks out in Mandalay

Have read a few blogs of people that have done it,  Back in 1988 i did the train Rangoon- Mandalay an it was not bad but very long,  better than the trains in India

PS booked a nice 2 star hotel in Mandalay for first 2 nights, only $34/night,
79 Living Hotel (Mandalay, Myanmar) - Hotel Reviews - TripAdvisor

----------


## blue bar

^ Lovely area, but not right now.

----------


## Exit Strategy

> i booked for the 15th 2 days ago an than this happened, Violence breaks out in Mandalay


Don't worry about that too much. Have a good trip and enjoy. It is a great place.

----------


## blue bar

Read more before going. Things sound very bad in Mandalay.

----------


## Exit Strategy

Note to the great unwashed backpackers :Smile:  
you need a visa to go to Burma. It is not difficult to get it. Embassy short walk from BTS. They are very Friendly. Aircon in waiting area (I hear sometimes hours waiting outside on the soi, but never seen it myself, avoid busy times which are?). 
In 'profession' do not write 'journalist going to bloody bring you down' :Smile:

----------


## terry57

> Read more before going. Things sound very bad in Mandalay.




Thing is,  if one stays away from areas where its kicking off one will never have a problem, same as Thailand.

On the up side the service and experience is much better as they are gagging for tourists.

Just go for it.

----------


## Jofrey

Burma: Curfew Restores Calm to Mandalay After Sectarian Riots - TIME

However....a lot of it sounds like it is has been incited by the "peaceful" Buddhist side....

----------


## Phuketrichard

have never been bothered with bad reports before i go somewhere, nor do i bother what time of the year it is,
I go when i want to go BUT saying that i much prefer traveling off season ( i don't need the perfect days, no rain, to hot)  unless there are reasons to aim for those specific time periods ( like trekking in Nepal or heading to Ladahk)

----------


## terry57

Traveling off season is the only way to go.

My trip to Burma was peak season but it ain't like peak season in Thailand.  Still very low key compared to here. 

Exactly why I enjoyed it so much. 

Trekking in Nepal.  Yes now there is a great experience right there. 

Later this year I hope. Ain't been back for a long time.

----------


## Loy Toy

Another excellent and interesting thread Terry and because of your efforts I still log on here. Your worth your weight in gold to this forum mate.

----------


## terry57

^

Hey LT,   Get ready for a few incoming reds with that one EH.

There could well be a few punters having a mental breakdown after reading that.  :Smile:

----------


## Phuketrichard

OK; quick up date from Mandalay, ( 10 pm curfew in Place but no troubles and it ony affected 3-4 streets near our hotel.  Locals siad it has been overblown.

Contrary to what Terry says;

Mandalay is not that expensive,   ( food sucks except for the middle class rests thta serve Burmese food)had a nice room for $34/night,  rented motorcycles and headed east to Hspiaw where we then rode up into the Shan sate ( restricted area) and the town of Namhsan.  Fucking fantastic scenery!!

Back down to Hspiaw an headed back towards Mandalay BUT took the turn off at Kyaukme .  Destination- the closed city of Mogkok ( city of Rubies)  the ride was amazing even though half of it was done in the rain. Worst roads i have traveled in SE Asia ( and that includes Laos, Cambodia, all over Thailand, even Nepal and India) Made it to Mogkok and than found no one would rent us a room as we did not have official permission.
Ended up at the Butterfly resort set on a hill top over looking the city for ONLY $75.  a $200 place in Thailand.

Headed back to Mandalay and were stopped and asked where we where coming from and how we got there.

Bullshitted our way out

Next day took the express ferry boat to Bagan ( $43 included breakfast an lunch) Local boat is $14 but 15 hours , ours was only 10 1/2
2 days/3 nights ( great room for $20/night) in Bagan and took the train back ( upper class $2.90) for a 9 hour ride.  

OK; thats the short end of it,
headed back to Phuket tomorrow an will go thru the 2,000 ++ photos and start my own thread!!! :bananaman:

----------


## terry57

^

Great info, way to go Cheers. 

 July ain't high season though eh, that's why you got decent prices on a Hotel in Mandalay. 

Try that in January.

----------

