Thread: Time to Paint

Originally Posted by dirtydog

buildings that I have seen sealed don't seem to last much longer paint wise that I have seen.

Beg to disagree there DD, there can be a huge difference if you do a good initial job.

Wait 3-4 weeks for the cement to dry out completely.
Use a thin sealant that can penetrate the cement surface and get a "grip" inside the cement.
TOA makes one that looks like milk and which will give you a rubber surface.
Surely the others (Supershield, Jotun) has something similar.

Then, use one of the 10 year guaranteed paints.
It will get a very good grip on the rubber surface.

Originally Posted by dirtydog

^You seen the prices they charge? Probably alright for you mansion owners, but most people just own normal houses

I've always thought the expensive paints are cheaper in the long run.
The ICI weathershield is still looking good after 8 years.

PS. My house is normal.

Originally Posted by dirtydog

? Probably alright for you mansion owners, but most people just own normal houses

I'm sure my neighbours have spent more money on their painting than what I have done on mine.
Because they have to re-paint every second , third year..

^
My point exactly.

The est advice I can offer is make sure the surface has dried out thoroughly after construction.
If you are using darker tint base paints go for the very best quality - the coverage and continuity of colour will more than pay for its self ( better than having to do 3 coats with crap)
If you use the cheaper stuff and the wall is too pourous, undercoat / seal with 1 parts bondcrete to 4 water (if you can get bondcrete in Thailand??)

Signed, a victim of interior decorating

Originally Posted by lom

TOA makes one that looks like milk and which will give you a rubber surface.

I know what this is called but goddamn my memory, sorry.

thank you for the feedback.

the post suggesting a thin base coat is especially valuable i think.

anyway i will do that and follow up with a good, but cheap, exterior paint. all over

the open house is may 25. there are maybe 1,000 people in the village and i am told to expect 100 of them at the open house. since i am footing the bill i'm not surprised...

i am thinking most of them will want to use the farang toilet since that is probably a new experience for them. good test for the septic/soak system

Did you paint yet?

Seal and then use an enamel paint so you can clean the walls. It costs more, but will prevent you from having to repaint dirty walls all of the time.

Oh, and watch the painters. They will try and dilute the paint to nothing with thinner. Have them apply 100% no matter how many times they tell you they know better than you. i caught my painters hiding in a room dumping the thinner in

Originally Posted by chitown

Oh, and watch the painters. They will try and dilute the paint to nothing with thinner

That's a very good and valid point. You have to keep an eye on them. I've seen some painters around here doing just that!

Originally Posted by VocalNeal

Did you paint yet?

The reason I asked is because my friend did the outside of his house with some "new-ish" exterior paint with reflective properties to reduce the absorption of heat from the sun.
It is quite common now and should be available locally where you are or surf.

As with all painting surface preparation is the key.

Also there are two ways to seal one is for moisture seepage and it requires a waterproofing agent to be applied. The other is to “seal” the concrete surface for painting. The second “sealing” can be achieved using regular paint thinned at 10% paint and 90% thinner.
The concrete “sucks-up” the thinner and sucks the pigment along with it onto the “pores” thus sealing the surface. The next coat is applied at 100% paint.

I was given this advice by the paint rep. many years ago when I did my garage floor. I never had a single problem, no flaking, etc. Of course I also cleaned and etched the surface as well.

Maybe the milky stuff mentioned does not require the surface to be cleaned and etched? I don’t know as I have never used it.

we have painted the interior. we did it ourselves with the help of a local. we took the advice previously offered of laying down a thin sealer coat followed by a thick finish coat. i say 'a' thick finish coat since it looked good enough to me not to do another. my only complaint is due to my own rush to finish. we slopped paint everywhere. now we need to clean it up. not, i think, an easy task.

the exterior will wait until we have cleaned up the interior and finished moving. the missus wanted, rightly i think, to paint the interior before we moved in furniture.

we appreciate your advice.

Originally Posted by lom

Wait 3-4 weeks for the cement to dry out completely.

This is correct BUT it is very important to firstly wet down all cement structures (footings, columns, and walls) for at least 30 days in order for the cement to cure properly. Note the plastic wrap wrapped around columns to ensure moisture is retained (a half-measure at best by contractors who understand the process but are too in a hurry to do things right).
While educated contractors know of the 30-day wet rule, most apply water only for a day or two, or for show. Most forget the walls, which is one of a few causes of the wide 'hairline' cracks you see in almost all structures in Thailand - another cause is too-narrow a footing and equally, too-wide a footing ( the edges curl up under the pressure of the column). In any event once the 30-day wetting period ends, you correctly must <quote Wait 3-4 weeks for the cement to dry out completely.unquote> and then continue to do as lom advises....Cheers

Supposedly ...??? Joton is the best quality paint you can buy in Thailand, I used it and been ok for 5 years now.