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Hall of Opium, A Mesmerizing Museum

Hall of Opium, A Mesmerizing Museum
By Pushpitha Wijesinghe

The Golden Triangle is the name given to the region where the perimeters of the nations of Myanmar, Laos and Thailand meet, and the tributary Sop Ruak river empties into the great Mekong. A mystical and romantic area, there is a downside to the area's allure; it is a region where opium is cultivated by the poverty-stricken natives and converted into the highly addictive narcotic heroin. It is estimated that one half of the globe's illicit heroin production has its roots in this area.

Thailand's Hall of Opium museum, situated in Chiang Rai in the Golden Triangle is dedicated to inform and educate visitors on the dangers of opium and heroin consumption and production, and how these activities may be controlled and regulated.

Constructed with the aid of a royal foundation, with assistance from Japan, the expansive museum encompasses 6,000 square metres of area on a pleasant green hillside looking over the Mekong River.

The journey begins as visitors enter the museum premises via a misty dark tunnel; appropriately enough, the first display is a pretty flowerbed of white and red poppies. This is the plant whose sap is harvested and brought to a boil in the manufacture of black opium. The resulting material is then processed into heroin which substance abusers will inject or smoke.

Opium has a history stretching back centuries, as its pain-killing properties have been known for millennia; before the 20th century it was unrestricted in many nations. The museum depicts how the trade in opium has caused revolutions and wars, and brought unimaginable riches to governments and dealers worldwide.

The opium trade was resisted by the dynasties ruling China, and this opposition was mercilessly eliminated by the forces of Britain in the 19th century Opium Wars, as the museum elaborates.

Among the museum's most prominent attractions is a reconstruction of a clipper ship of a type employed by the British to transport opium from the Indian subcontinent to China, in which country the opium was bartered for spices and tea.

In other sections of the museum visitors will see displays of how opium is smoked and manufactured, with video documentaries depicting the tragic tales of drug abusers from across the globe.

The Hall of Opium is the result of many years of preparatory work using the skills of researchers from across the globe. The museum aims to present vital information in an interactive interesting manner which will appeal to visitors both local and foreign.

Discerning travellers seeking Chiang Rai hotels will be delighted by the Anantara Golden Triangle, Thailand, a fine Chiang Rai resort that will always enthral the visitor.

Pushpitha Wijesinghe is an experienced independent freelance writer. He specializes in providing a wide variety of content and articles related to the travel hospitality industry.

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The Golden Triangle Park

In 1988, Her Royal Highness Princess Srinagarindra, The Princess Mother, late mother of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej of Thailand, initiated a development project in Chiang Rai, the northernmost province of Thailand, with the aim of rehabilitating the forests and improving the lives of the people living in the heart of the Golden Triangle in Thailand, ending their dependence on opium cultivation and use.

HRH The Princess recognised that for the hill-tribe villagers, opium was an economic crop. Opium cultivation was not an intrinsic element of hill-tribe culture. This made it easier to address the problem.

By helping villagers to become self-sufficient through the introduction of crop substitution programmes, and the creation of alternative employment such as the establishment of a cottage industry in handicrafts, hill-tribe villagers generate sufficient income to supplement earnings from agricultural and horticultural production. They are no longer dependent on opium cultivation for their livelihood.

HRH The Princess Mother also realised that education is an equally vital component in efforts to eradicate opium cultivation and use. Her Royal Highness believed that by providing knowledge about the history of opium in The Golden Triangle and in other parts of the world, and by promoting better awareness and understanding of the uses and effects of opium, morphine, and heroin, and the dangers and consequences of its use, fewer people would be tempted into drug use. Shrinking demand would eventually reduce supply.

In order to gain commitment from all levels of society to join in the fight against illegal drugs, HRH The Princess Mother thus initiated a project designed to help provide knowledge to the people of the world about the history of opium in The Golden Triangle and in other parts of the world, and to raise public awareness that narcotics and other illegal drugs are a problem not just for the countries and people of the Golden Triangle, but for societies worldwide.

The social, economic and physical costs of drug abuse, and the crime and corruption that surrounds it and efforts to control it, impact all levels of society, from individuals and their families, neighbourhoods and countries.

The result of this initiative is the Hall of Opium, Golden Triangle Park.

The Hall of Opium/Golden Triangle Park has been constructed on over 40 acres of land at a site near The Golden Triangle situated 10 kilometres northwest of Chiang Saen in Chiang Rai Province. The site incorporates an exhibition area and information centre of the Hall of Opium within the landscape of the Golden Triangle Park.

The Hall of Opium combines a museum on the history of opium and the impact of illegal drugs, with an information centre for research and extension education on opium, opiates and other narcotics.

THE EXHIBITION

While the lives and cultures of the hill tribes and the opium production and trade of The Golden Triangle are inter-related, the approach adopted for the exhibition has been to present these inter-related aspects of the opium story as two distinct and separate elements.

This important distinction is made to highlight the fact that opium is essentially an economic crop. It is not an intrinsic element of the indigenous culture. This therefore makes it easier to address and resolve.

A walk through the 5,600 sq-metre world-class exhibition area within the Hall of Opium highlights different aspects on the subject of "Opium". Every step of the way, the information presented through the dramatic use of state-of-the-art multimedia innovation is vivid and poignant. The use of engaging audio-visual presentations and interactive displays, coupled with dynamic spatial design, work together to enlighten and provoke thought.

Entrance Tunnel
Lobby and Introduction Hall
Auditorium
The First 5,000 Years
Dark and Bright Hallway
From West to East
The Opium Wars
Opium in Siam
19th Century Medicine
Prohibition/Crime/Wars
Where's the Stash?
Efforts to Control Drugs
Case Studies
Gallery of Excuses/Gallery of Victims
Hall of Reflection

As you venture through a 130-metre Entrance Tunnel that passes through a hill, lighting, sound, and special effects such as the occasional impressionistic images conveyed in the form of bas-relief and projections that appear on the walls, ceiling and floor of the tunnel, draw you deeper into the dark realm of the world of opium.

The 'journey' begins with the mystery associated with The Golden Triangle, and progresses through the range of contradictory moods and feelings generally associated with opium, morphine and heroin.

DANGER - of addiction, of crime associated with drug-smuggling or drug-dealing
FEAR - of addiction, of being caught
SLEEP AND DREAMS - associated with opium use
EASE OF PAIN - the most important medical effect of opium, morphine, heroin
SUPPRESSED SUFFERING - the relief and calming effect of the medical use of opium and opiates, and the "mental escape" opium and opiates experienced by addicts

LOBBY AND INTRODUCTION HALL

As you exit the tunnel and step past a symbolic 'golden triangle', you enter a bright and airy Lobby. Cast your eyes beyond a small valley, a scenic view of a small poppy field similar to those planted by some of the hill-tribes in the region lies before you.

Introductory displays in the lobby feature the opium poppy and its products, and drug production in the Golden Triangle. A variety of poppies are presented in glass-enclosed areas, intended as a greenhouse for the cultivation of opium poppies throughout the year, when appropriate.

The first display consists of dried or imitation opium poppies in various stages of growth and harvesting, together with botanical drawings of the Opium Poppy (Papaver somniferum) and pictures and descriptions of the main products derived from the plant.

Another display presents some of the 100+ other Papaver species as well as other plant genera that are commonly referred to as poppies.

AUDITORIUM

A brief multimedia presentation provides an introduction to the exhibition and the key facilities, and presents an overview of illegal opium production and use in the Golden Triangle and around the world.

THE FIRST 5,000 YEARS

Trace the history of the first 5,000 years of opium starting out with the origins of the opium poppy along the Mediterranean and the first archaeological evidence in Switzerland, and the spread of the use of opium to various parts of the world. The first references of opium in Sumerian medicinal text The medical and ritual use in Ancient Greece, Rome and Egypt The use of opium in Europe and the Americas from the Middle Ages until the 18th century The spread of the use of opium to South and East Asia by 1,000 AD

DARK AND BRIGHT HALLWAY

Pass through a short "dark and bright hallway" in which the contrasting characteristics of opium are presented.

On the one hand, the plant and products derived from the plant offer great benefits to humans, while on the other, it can also cause devastating suffering, thereby highlighting the fact the real problem lies in the abuse of the plant.

FROM WEST TO EAST

A major change in opium use and abuse occurs when it becomes a major commercial commodity along with the expansion of Western imperialist trade. The trade in opium shifted from a minor trade item used as a medicine to a major commodity - an addictive substance sold mainly by western traders with an assured market among predominantly Asian addicts, resulting in drastic consequences.

It is believed that the British habit of tea consumption was a key factor leading to this change. It can be argued that the widespread British addiction to tea led to a large-scale Chinese addiction to opium.

Trade between China and the West was highly unbalanced. While the West bought silk, porcelain and tea from China, there was little Chinese demand for British manufactured goods or products from western countries. Goods exported from China had to be paid for in silver in the form of Spanish silver coins.

By the late 1700's, the British discovered that one product they could sell to the Chinese to redress the imbalance in trade was opium produced in the new British colony of India.

Embark a voyage from Britain in the West to China in the East. The voyage starts in a London dock where the East India Company dominates the trade in tea, spices, silk, and porcelain from the East, and the export of manufactured goods, mostly cloth and metalware to India.

The journey begins in the interior of a ship of the late 1700's. It was part war-ship to fend off attacks from other western nations and fight native populations who might object to "free trade".

Halfway through the journey, the interior changes into a 19th century clipper ship. Clipper ships were the fastest sailing ships ever built, used for high value trade that needed to be transported in the shortest time possible to prevent spoilage, or avoid embargoes, or capture.

While the opium that was sold to China and the other countries of Southeast and East Asia came from India, the government did not export the opium officially, and ships flying the British flag were prohibited from shipping opium. Ships registered elsewhere, but owned and operated by British companies, dominated the opium trade.

The journey ends in Canton harbour - the only Chinese trading port open to foreigners until 1842. Opium was banned by the Chinese government so it was unloaded into small boats and smuggled into Canton and along the border.

By the early 17th century, opium-smoking in China had become prevalent. Smokers began to mix tobacco imported from the Americas with opium. When an Imperial Edict banned tobacco smoking in 1729, people began to smoke pure opium. The addictive habit spread quickly, to all levels of society throughout the country.

THE OPIUM WARS

The opium trade led to confrontation and eventually wars between China and Britain, and later other western powers. Key figures involved in the conflict are depicted, some as life-size figures. Others in pictures and photographs. Quotations of the individuals depicted offer insight into their opinions and their stand on the conflict.

The political, economic and social impact of the Opium Wars led to several significant developments in history. The wars are believed to have precipitated the long decline of the Manchu dynasty, culminating in the foundation of the republic in 1911, and the People's Republic of China in 1949.

It led to the forced opening of several "treaty ports" and the economic control of China by the Western powers, leading to the establishment of Hong Kong and 156 years of British rule over the Chinese territory.

The "open" trade led to a drastic expansion of opium smoking.

OPIUM IN SIAM

A section of the exhibition presents the history of legal opium in Siam. Siam is selected as a representative of the extensive legal opium production, trade, and use in the 19th and early 20th century Asia. The roles of the Western traders, government tax collectors, and Chinese and local addicts are shown.

Displays depict a mock-up of a late 19th century opium den in a Sino-Thai urban area, opium processing, and the development of crafts used in opium-smoking such as pipes, opium weights, pillows, and other items associated with opium consumption.

19th CENTURY MEDICINE

Scientific advances in 19th century Europe led to the isolation of morphine, the development of heroin, and the invention of the hypodermic syringe to facilitate the application of these drugs.

Heroin became widely-used as a supposed non-addictive cough suppressant (in place of codeine) and a pain reliever (in place of morphine), until it was discovered to be equally if not more addictive than the other opiates. Morphine, cocaine, and a hypodermic syringe to inject the drugs, were often included in home and emergency medical kits of the late 1800s.

Another form of addiction in the Western world took the form of addiction to these pain killers and the many other pharmaceutical and patent medicines that included opium and other narcotics.

PROHIBITION/CRIME/WARS

In this triangle-shaped room, the key aspects that shaped the 20th century approach to opium and other narcotics are presented using high-tech interactive displays. The various aspects featured include: The movement to prohibit opium, culminating in international treaties and national laws controlling opiate use and prohibiting illegal production, trafficking, sale and use

The relationship between opium/drug and crime; control by crime syndicates, political corruption, and worldwide efforts to control trafficking from the fields where the opium is grown to the streets where it is sold to addicts

The connection between war and opium production, in particular the growth of opium production in the Golden Triangle after World War II.

WHERE'S THE STASH?

The "Hide Out Hallway" proves the point that ultimately even the most ingenious hiding places will be found. Interactive displays in the "Hide Out Hallway" show the many ways by which opium traffickers and users attempt to smuggle or hide their drugs.

EFFECTS OF DRUGS

In a dark and foreboding room, feel the detrimental effects of addiction and illegal drug-trafficking. The physical and psychological, as well as financial and social effects, and their broader impact on society is depicted.

EFFORTS TO CONTROL DRUGS

Learn about efforts being undertaken to stop the use of drugs, trafficking, and drug addiction. These include - Drug eradication schemes Strict police action against trade and use Decriminalisation Efforts to help people overcome their addictions Attempts at legalisation

CASE STUDIES

In "Case Studies", stories of the lives of several families affected by drug addiction are presented.

A mix of families from different ethnic and national backgrounds are presented to show that drug addiction knows no boundaries.

Cabinets with pull-out drawers in the room feature both sides of the story.

The "Gallery of Ex-Addicts"

depicts both well-known as well as regular individuals who have successfully overcome the pain and bleakness of drug addiction.

The "Gallery of Addicts"

shows that many remain caught in the snare of addiction, with death being the inevitable outcome.

GALLERY OF EXCUSES/GALLERY OF VICTIMS

A long and narrowing exhibit represents the descent from the initial euphoria of drug use to the suffering and pain felt by many long-term addicts and their loved ones.

Three different perspectives are presented. The first features images and voices of addicts of illegal drugs of all types describe why and how they first became addicted and reasons why they cannot or do not want to overcome their addiction.

The second tells the tales of sorrow from the innocent victims of addictions. See the images and hear the voices of people who have been hurt by drug abuse by a loved one.

The last depicts the desperate and bleak situation of those who remain caught in or who have died from drug abuse. Images are accompanied by accounts of how they are forced to support their habits through crime, prostitution and other means.

HALL OF REFLECTION

The "Hall of Reflection" is a quiet room where visitors can reflect on what they have seen. Quotations from famous individuals such as religious leaders, philosophers, and world leaders on the value of leading a life of moderation (free from drugs or other forms of abuse) are depicted. Paintings and sculpture on display create a sense of calm, aiding reflection.

WHAT CAN I DO

This final section provides information and brochures on various ways in which individuals throughout the world endeavour to solve the problem of illegal drugs, so one can decide how to contribute to the effort.

Hall of Opium opening hours: every day except Monday 8.30-16.00 Guided Tours in English and Thai are conducted at 30-minute intervals with the first English language tour commencing at 8.45 and the Thai language at 8.30. ON-SITE ACCOMMODATION AT THE "GREATER MEKONG LODGE" Rooms with a panoramic view overlooking the Mekong River

On-site accommodation is available at the "Greater Mekong Lodge". Out of a total of 54 rooms, 28 are in the main building and 26 more in 13 two-bedroom Villas. The rates are 1,600 Baht for a single room, and 1,800 Baht for a twin.