Quote Originally Posted by Yogi View Post
Quote Originally Posted by Dino View Post
Quote Originally Posted by Yogi View Post
if I was to do this job I would look at dovetail metal strips 50% thickness of the tread screwed into place from riser to 20mil from edge of tread . Dovetail the underneath of the tread with a router to the same length of metal bars . The tread just slides into place & is secured by useing strong resin to hold the tread in place .
This method is much safer as it stops the tread from tipping in the event of the resin failing at a future date
That is a great idea. Any reason why you would use metal strips instead of wood, then using wood glue to attach the strip with the tread?
Using metal strips is more to do with strength . Also the termite factor as they do seem to enjoy wood .

The only other way I would do this job is to get a plug cutter & cutt wood plugs from scraps of the same timber as the treads .Then drill countersink fix tread & plug . This would mean that all wood staining would have to be done after fixing.

Another way of putting strength into the tread is to put metal dowls into the rear edge (edge to meet riser) & drill holes into concret to accept the dowls. It is importent that the tread have that extra stength to stop it from tipping. The only time it will tip is when somebody steps on it so safety is a must .
Can I buy dovetail metal strips locally or do I have to have them made? You think there would be any moisture issues with the metal sitting directly on the concrete with the humidity levels so high?

I ran this concept past the builder today and he said he could do it, but wanted to use wood (same wood as tread). I mentioned steel but he couldn't understand why I would want to use it.