No problem TD, this is a fantastic building thread, with many good posts. Therefore, of course, it has also become long, and therefore it is impossible for you to remember everything, and to remember who had written what.
And you are right, I already given the answer to your question on page 29 in post number 720
I have been following this tread all the time, and also look forward to seeing the rest of the construction being completed.
I wish you the best of luck with finishing the house.
thanks - we are so close now... I am there on the 20th and expect it to be 'done'
Electrician is in at the moment, making a start on connecting it all up - testing and commissioning in other words.
K.pot is messing about with high priced gates at the moment - i am sure there must be a cheap way of doing this
Thanks Klondyke....I am interested to know more from you (or anyone) who has some good information about the real costs of a gate and remotely operated motor opening system for it.
K.Pot is on a mission for a little bit of 'extra' lol hes not getting it, but I would like some good info to 'get him back on track' so to speak, or...
,,, get someone independent to source and fit said gate
^As I said, it costs ca. 10k at GH + for each 1m of the teeth rail, 2 remote controllers included (they work over 60m), + IR sensors at both sides (if the beam interrupted it stops the closing and open again), + installation (2,000B?) if required. Not sure about the momentary situation.
The same type (Foresee 500M) is on market in UK, you can check.
It's sliding type, there is also swing opener for more money.
https://detail.en.china.cn/provide/p110005113.html
There are some more types at others for more, however, this from GH is OK over years and very heavy gate.
Main gate purchase, fitment and automation
I have a quote, fitted, with 2 remotes + 1 wall mounted switch in house
- Stainless steel construction
- Aluminium panels, shaped to look like wood, painted same colour as the house
- All limit switches, track, motor drive, wheels, cables & receivers, and accessories included, obviously.
- Fitted and tested
Initially the first company wanted 94k, that was through K.Pot.
so then we did a bit of checking ourselves... quote 2 was 75k
However, I told PJ to go back to get it for between 65-70k..just awaiting confirmation.
So.. is that cheap, about right or a rip off?. k.Pot is out of the equation whatever happens...
lol.. if you are on the route back from the bar AP2... might not only be the dogs....
My option is stainless steel, and i would further seal it over if not done by them.
I am hoping sub 70k but Norton's option looks good too... the auto motor arrangement might only be 20k so could save a lot
Tempted fate here! just came back home and the bloody gate wouldn't open, small gate lock frozen as so long since it was used, been meaning to lube it! had to climb over the bloody gate which was akin to Hilary's ascent in my mind! "short" story made longer, it was a fuse - they do tend to put small fuses on these units - sure they have their reasoning - there's a couple in there, worth remembering to keep a few around.
1. It's a good to have a master switch (a breaker) at the gate - enabling to switch it off when you want leave it open for a while (when working around it or when expecting a visit of province governor)
2. Parallel to the fixed wired switch in the house you could have a secret switch hidden near the gate - enabling to fast open once you are near the gate, spotting the province governor entourage arriving and cannot immediately find your remote in your deep pockets since your hands are shaking by excitement...![]()
No kidding: these 2 things are always forgotten but serve you well...
And not to forget:
Before finishing the drive way your builder should embed a pipe in-between the 2 columns parallel with the rail with inserted string enabling to pull in cables for power supply (if coming from other side than the motor) and for the connection between the two sensors. The sensors are compulsory to avoid scratching your RR when not fast going thru...
Heat Insulation
Q-con blocks –
Did we do it? yes – ext 150 mm int 100 mm
The benefits of those AAC (Autoclaved Aerated Concrete) blocks was well-known and once the price was much lower, it made even more sense to use these blocks in the construction.
We used them throughout, internal and external. Maybe overkill, I don't know, but it made for a rapid construction due to the bigger block size against traditionally-used red brick. Although the red brick is more 'traditional' the brief for this build was traditional appearance but up to date building technology. None of the block work would be visible once finished
Roof insulation
Did we do it? yes
This one was pretty much a 'no-brainer'. Some great comment and advice from TD members, plus my knowledge of the benefits gained from build story read-ups before i started and this was fitted under the TD Towers roofs
Ceiling foil
Did we do it? - yes
There were two schools of though on this one with some suggesting it might not be necessary. In the end though, I figured, as much heat as possible to be kept away from the living areas was a good long-term benefit. the ceiling insulation was fitted. I made sure the roof void would also be flushed of heat though.
Air vents
Did we do it? - yes
To remove the heat build up in those massive roof voids, we needed a venting system, The builder looked to traditional roof and copied the vents in the gable ends. so traditional look, traditional practicality. heat efficiently removed. the high pitch of the roof was lifting the hot air up and away from the house in any case which further assisted (main roof height over 5m)
Roof Fan
Did we do it? - no
This one was suggested way back and seemed like a good idea. we did not do it straight away as the airflow from the vent arrangements was working well and since electrical efficiency / conservation was a build brief we decided not to fit the fans. the good thing is, we can always go back to fitting a fan in the roof void if it does become necessary. Options are there still
Narrow window
Did we do it? - yes
This worked out well. the traditional appearance was for narrow windows, not panorama or picture windows, which while letting in a lot of light also let in a lot of heat, potentially. we went with tradition as it was the brief, but the windows were glazed to insulate inside from outside temperatures. there was some tip of the hat to modern variants though,. as we had large folding windows in the bedroom, dining room (2) and main living room. All of those though were under very large overhangs preventing direct sun-rays from heating up the rooms. traditional houses also had large openings into rooms, so we followed tradition, but installed modern glazed units, again to seal off from heat and also of course for security.
Tinted glass
Did we do it? - yes
PJ was wanting this. I was easy either way but the small additional benefit of heat protection swung us on to it. a soft green tint actually enhances the appearance of the house
Roof overhang
Did we do it? – yes
Another look to tradition, where open window style was somewhat protected by roofs overhanging to reduce the suns effect in the rooms. we followed it even though the windows were glazed, as it looks correct, and traditonal appearance was the brief. we did not fit over the lower floor windows but that can be added later if required.
Usually what I see the stainless-steel gates (mostly w/o remote) in the villages, the cost exceeds the cost of the house.
However, it hardly can be the case of the TD Towers...![]()
lol, Klondyke... TD Towers costs less than you think.... anyway, gate started in the 90's his final offer, that's it, no more negotiating, final price...72k
He's doing the job now, new 'final price'...71k.. dunno why we got that extra bit... maybe hes eyeing up the pedestrian door requirement too.
Time for a re-cap
So.. now we have all but completed stage 1 and 2, i will look back to what PJ and I set out to do - our building brief, and see how much of it we managed to achieve. and no, we did not achieve it all!
I agree with you, I too did it. However, as of the heat protection benefit, I am not so sure. The radiation that is not let inside (almost) is caught on the tint and heats up the glass, it can be felt by touching. Hence, it heats up the room unless a double glazing or another protection (a heavy curtain) will reduce it.
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