Hidden natural beauty in Southwest Thailand
Rainbow over the Phetchaburi watershed
One of the country’s most astonishing natural wonders is snuggled along the border with Burma in the southwest provinces of Phetchaburi and Prachuap Kirikan. This magnificent forest is part of the great rugged Tenasserim Range running from the province of Tak in the north, to Phang Nga in the south. It has evolved over millions of years into a spectacular wilderness showcasing an amazing array of wild flora and fauna.
Asian leopard camera-trapped on old logging road
Kaeng Krachan is the largest national park in the nation covering a vast area of 2,915 square kilometres of mostly dense mountainous with moist-evergreen, dry-evergreen and mixed deciduous forests. The highest peak is on the border at over 1,500 meters and the second is Phaneon Thung Mountain at 1,207 meters. The park is one of the richest biospheres on the planet with Sundaic and Indochinese species intermingled and still surviving in the interior.
A great hornbill lifting off a fruit tree
The Phetchaburi and Pranburi Rivers are two very important watersheds that flow through the protected area to the lowlands. There are more than 70 species of fish plus the animals feeding on them including the Siamese crocodile, fishing cat, buffy fish-owl, lesser fish-eagle and smooth-coated otter all found here in fair numbers except for the crocodile. So far, only one individual has been recorded. However, it is a harmonious ecosystem filled with wild animals and real-life stories of nature’s remarkable creatures living here for millennia.
Bull elephant camera-trapped at a mineral deposit
In some areas tigers, leopards, elephants, gaur, tapir and many other superlative creatures thrive. Other carnivores include the clouded leopard, marbled cat, Asian wild dog, Asiatic jackal, sun bear, black bear and a host of smaller civets, badger, mongoose and banded linsang. Prey species comprise of sambar, both species of muntjac (the rare Fea’s and the more common barking deer), mouse deer, serow, wild pig, stump-tailed macaque, gibbon, langur and porcupine to mention just a few. There are over 400 bird species recorded plus a multitude of reptiles and amphibians, thousands of insect and plant species.
Gaur camera-trapped at the same mineral deposit
Unfortunately, Kaeng Krachan is under serious threat from people inside and outside the park, who continue to poach the flora and fauna, and encroach on the forest. There are several Karen and Karang villages situated in the northeast section of the park along the Phetchaburi River. With easy access, these people continue to enter the interior in search of food and perpetrate other harmful activities. Also, human trafficking from Burma has been documented using the park’s waterways. Over the long run, these ethnic people with their unrestricted population growth will overcome many new areas in search of a livelihood.
Gaur herd spooked by camera-trap at another mineral deposit in the interior
Another very damaging aspect is excessive visitation by tourists who basically tend to destroy natural habitat through sheer numbers, especially during holidays and long-weekends. Another serious problem is over-development and expansion of the previous facilities by the park authorities to increase visitors, hence more money into the coffers. This increase in tourism has had a negative effect on the protected area. There seems to be no concept of carry capacity as is practiced at national parks in the west.
Indochinese tiger abstract in Kaeng Krachan
The Phechaburi watershed area also needs special zoning to keep the hordes of people out who leave trash and other unwanted things behind. Chopping trees down and marking them permanently with machetes is another serious problem. I once saw a middle-class man and his six member family hiking down to the famous nine-tiered Thor Thip waterfall all carrying walking staffs cut from young trees at the top near the car park.
Buffy fish-owl landing by the Phetchaburi River
I have also seen and camera-trapped hunting groups sneaking into the park during the rainy and dry season with local Karen porters as guides. The only thing these people do right is pay the small fee at the park entrance. The chief and most of the staff stay down in the park headquarters hardly ever policing this place.
Asian tapir posing in the Phetchaburi River
Kaeng Krachan is probably the second best area for tigers and leopards in the Kingdom. It is one of my favourite wilderness areas after more than 15 years of experience photographing wildlife here, and I have watched it slide slowly downhill. Poor management and low budgets have plagued this place for years. It is hoped the Thai government will improve patrolling and enforcement, and preserve this magnificent place before it is too late. Quick and decisive steps need to be taken now to insure its survival for present and future generations to enjoy.
Asian tapir swimming in the Phetchaburi River
Part Two of this thread will focus on the rare and endangered species found in Kaeng Krachan.