Both my toilets are Thai Mfg. One is Cotto and one is American standard, and they both have the holes that line up with the bolts that fit in the floor flange..Originally Posted by dirtydog
Without a doubt the majority of these bowls are for export and of course the local plumbers improvised the way of sealing them into place.
My gripe is that I feel the bowl is designed a certain way and it should be mounted properly into place.
Yes the white cement works but it is a half assed way of installing a toilet.
Everything that is done in Thailand when it comes to building, electrical or plumbing is half assed.
Which should not say that anything else that they do is in any way correct.
well maybe planting rice might be OK, but there is other ways to do it that also work as well as the back breaking way they do it, where I came from they grow thousands of acres/tons of rice and it is planted with airplanes,,My Father in law used to broadcast the seed and it grew OK.
Way that they do everything the hard way, I am surprised that they do not fuck standing up in a hammock.
Maybe Everglaze means a swept tee to help the turd on its way, using a tee is similar to crashing into a wall and coming to a stop
It Ain't no fun sitting on the toilet down stairs when someone flushes the up stairs toilet. Stupid F@cking Tee lovers. Thai plumbers must have shit for brains.
The Tee has nothing to do with his problems on his ground floor bathroom, but it's best he explains those problems.
when you find a place that sells the flanges and wax ring please post it? Thanks
awesome thread, I am looking to change my toilet unit myself and need to know how to do that,
Installing a Toilet - How to Install a Toilet
There is a link about installing a new toilet..
^ hopefully that would be compatible with Thailand style of installation of toilets by the locals
No it isn't, Thai style is to set the bowl on a ring of grout layed on a tile floor and then clean up what is outside the edge of the bowl and shit dumps down on the floor and most of it finds its way down the drain,
With the correct way the flange is inside the drain pipe and sealed to the floor with a sealant and held with screws, then the bowl has the Bees wax ring on the snout under the bowl and then mounted over the bolts and then the bolts just tight enough to stop the bowl from rocking.
There is no leakage from the bowl to the floor.
Stop worrying about Shitters .
Just open your eyes the place is full of wonderfull Flanges .
This is how I remember doing it a couple of years ago. In ThailandOriginally Posted by blackgang
The flange fastened with 4 screws to the floor and wax sealant rings on both sides of the flange.
Bowl fastened with expander bolts in the floor, one on each side.
And a thick string of silicon between bowl and floor before tightening the two bolts.
After starting this thread around 2 years ago , I have since installed said toilet less flange and done in the typical Thai style.
Albeit incorrect.
Now if you will notice the keyhole shaped slots on each side of the flange, these are for the bowl hold down bolts and the wax ring goes on the nub that stickes out of the bottom of the bowl and goes into that dished out cavity where the rag is that keep the sewer gas from getting in the bathroom while the bowl is off.
Then when the bolts are tightened they compress the wax ring and forms the water tight seal between bowl and flange.
CacheBeClean.com
I will wake up this thread again.
I came across this site when surfing yesterday. I sent them a mail and will see if I get any info. Looks like someone here in LOS is tying to help keep the smells and leaks down to a minimum
If I can find this product I will sure give it a try on my new build
If you take the time to do the job right the first time you won't need to "find" the time to go back a second time
HINO
HINO, I was there in 68 too,,
But if you will check with American standard Dealers they do sell a toilet kit with shitter, tank and floor flange all in the box.
I bought one mainly to get the flange and then I bought a flange from another dealer in another town that had sold the toilet but he or the guy that bought it knew what the flange was for so he kept it and I bought it and explained to him what it was for, that was as succesful as teaching my Thai Dog to play the fucking Trumpet.
Thanks blackgang
I will give the type I found a shot (if I can find them) as I think it may be easier to "teach" them to use this than the actual flanges.
I have toilets installed both ways. In fact, the builders explained to me that it depends on which make of toilet you buy. Some they fit the flange, some not
If you don't fit the flange, I am not sure what the problem would be anyway
you have a pipe that is not sealed to another pipe, true, but looking at the fit it would hardly leak anything as the small pipe is discharging into a larger pipe directly downwards
Assuming the worst, and there was some spillage, it would only go into the sealed space below the toilet. This may be unpleasant to think about but, practically, it does not matter at all. Maybe when the toilet needs to be replaced there would be some unpleasantness, but the plumber likes all that stuff.
I have reported your post
first off it doesn't provide for a smooth transition from toilet to pipe causing constant back up because of the crap (literally) and toilet paper hanging up and getting stuck. Before you say it, of course that doesn't happen in all cases, but it does happen when it shouldn't..
Secondly that seal that is created makes the toilet flush without allowing for an air gap that impairs the smooth flow of the vacuum created by the downward motion of the flushing current which makes the toilet work efficiently. The better it flows the less water used too as you don't need as much pressure to force the contents down because a properly flowing toilet also creates a vacuum. it pushes and pulls through the flow developed..
The gap between the meshing of the 2 interferes with that flow and vacuum like putting a spoon in a pitcher of water and spinning it to make it swirl then moving the spoon into the center and stopping it again, the vortex is disrupted and the flow is no longer cohesive.. I.E. Less efficient..
Finally the toilet bowl is very likely to be destroyed if you have to remove it for any reason if it is cemented in instead of bolted down..Not to mention retiling your floor as it is supposed to be bolted on top of the tile not surrounded by tile and cement..
Better hope that you don't get a blockage directly underneath it from the gap collecting waste because then you might need to buy a new bowl too (like my neighbor had to do on a house that is only 2 years old).. most designs are too tight to get a snake through to clean out from up top.
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