Thread: What kind of Motorcycle do you own.

Originally Posted by Rigger

I do still have a mid range cough that I have to get rid of, I already cleaned out the carb and added a filter, I think the timing my be out as I now and then I get pre ignition when switching of the bike, Any ideas ? Not even sure how to set it on the buell ? __________________

i just cleaned out the Keihin FCR carb on the KTM then decided it would be a good idea to "adjust it"

Well, fok me two days later it is running again and amazingly a little better. They have a accelerator pump which is adjustable as well as everything else, some learning curve there!

Google is your friend here, I got all the info to sort it out, not sure what carb your running but I'm sure there is something there.

I found that most carbs have a couple of stages of fuel metering The pilot jet for idling, the needle for mid range (tapered for more fuel at more throttle) and the main jet for top end wide open (needle raised out of the jet) The main jet size also affects the mid range so I would play with the needle clip position first and maybe the main jet. Also check float bowl height and that the needle valve thingy that shuts off the fuel when the bowl fills isn't worn but you probably know most of that already

If you had an FCR on it I could tell you just about anything about it after two days sweating and cursing

Now, I noticed my W650 has a surge at high speed, like it is about to run out of fuel........

^

But Trials were differant then re Royal Enfields (used to live in Redditch) re Bults/Montesa -differant then

Now how the Fck these kids ride as they do esp in indoor Trials , jumping from a standing start over a gap to another point whilst on the back wheel really impresses me

This trick riding started in the early 80s, and I reckon down to Skateboards and Trick pedal bikes gave the capability

Originally Posted by nedwalk

maybe frankie has some answers.

Not me. Not much for mikuni carbs. But the mid rang 'cough' could be down to "reversion." there's plenty of literature on it on the internet with pipes (im thinkin straight pipes?) like those in the photo you may have reversion problems at certain RPM. I'm not sure I'd blame timing but it certainly should be checked. Reversion typically shows up as a mid-range flat spot that can cause that 'cough'

If your engine is diseling after you shut off the ignition you definitely have excessive heat build up in the combustion chamber. retarded timing can put a lot of heat into a motor, so can lean mixture aor even a hot spot on in the chamber. if it was timing you would expect problems throughout the rpm range. Are teh two related? maybe, maybe not. I had an old dual point ignition on a panhead once. never could get the rear barrel to time right. never had a mid-range flat spot though. At night you could see my rear exhaust pipe glow red. was kinda cool lookin and nice source of warmth up in the Sierras at night but probably not real good for the life of the old stroker. Changed the distributor for a shovelhead auto advance no more red pipe.

if you have an electronic ignition with mappable advance curves there could be a midrange flat spot or the curve is just not aggressive enough. I'm not sure about these new mikuni flat slide carbueretors, but the needle/jet set up is tuneable does the mikuni have different needle profiles? Many of those slide type carbs have a needle with varying profile to control mixture at different throttle openings. Some things to look at and investigate sorry I can't be specific.

Sometime you gotta live what you got but with the tuneablity of today's new systems I would not run a carb unless I was forced to. You could always dump more money into the thing. Three letters: EFI. Plenty of programmable kits out there with pre-compiled fuel maps available and you don;t really need a comp or dyno to workout what works for you.

Same goes for ignition; I just got my new JP cycle catalog, they got pages of programmable ignition systems from Crane, S&S Accel, Dyna, etc.

I've been ramblig again. Ignore all the above. Thing is, it's a guessing game until a guy can get his hands on the machine and start the process of elimination; ticking off causes. retarded timng will put heat into a motor (deiseling) but usually will not cause a mid range flat. if the bike runs good at low and hi rpm then you might have fuel problems (not saying 100% it's NOT timing or 100% it is fuel, just probablities) Reversion will cause fuel (mixture) problems. If you are runing straight pipes you might look at putting some small baffles in there. or see if the mikuni has a stepped needle you can swap for better mid-range. I really have no idea on the layout of different fuel circuits in the new mikunis. I have heard they are quite tuneable so you probably have options there.

Thanks for the reply frankie I dont beleive it is the pipes as it hasnt always done it, I also run torq cones where the pipes bolt onto the head. I have ordered this DAYTONA TWIN TEC 1005 IGNITION KIT HARLEY SHOVELHEAD:eBay Motors (item 120292760808 end time Jun-05-09 07:26:59 PDT)
and hope it might solve the problem.

Originally Posted by friscofrankie

retarded timing can put a lot of heat into a motor

Timing is set at 98% full advance, set by a Harley dealer and ran great with this setting for a while. Then it started a small mid range cough and now has turned into full on miss firing anything in the upper rev range.

Going to take the buell on a long ride when I get back so I bought a springer seat set up Harley Chopper Bobber 16" LaRosa Leather Solo Seat:eBay Motors (item 190312354475 end time Jun-10-09 2251 PDT). Last time I did just a 200klm ride I had calases right at the top of me ass crack

also ordered all different types of mounting hard ware as I am not really sure how its going to fit. I think it will make it look more like a bobber style.

I rode rigid exclusively well into my thirties and am still tempted to build another. I do like the way they handle. I always ran a bates or bates type seat with 3" springs and they help ALOT.

Originally Posted by Rigger

I dont beleive it is the pipes as it hasnt always done it,

Originally Posted by Rigger

Then it started a small mid range cough and now has turned into full on miss firing anything in the upper rev range

Sounds like something's changed, no? if you haven't changed anything in that time, then something has worn or loosened or... Did you check for intake leaks? just a thought. Would make it run hot as well. again, just guessing but from what I am reading here I still suspect air/fuel.

I've never liked mikunis mainly because of thet hose & clamp mounting system they have.

I was reading up on that Twin tec 1005, looks like a good thing. Actually was the first ignition system in the new catalog that caught my eye.

what's the hit like on new parts you order from the US anyway? I've been told it's 30% of invoice. true?

Oh forgot here's some interesting readng at the mikuni website:
http://http://www.mikuni.com/fs-tuning_guide.html

Sounds like you got setup alright though just something got knocked outta whack, still worth a read.

Originally Posted by Marmite the Dog

What are an easily available, reasonably priced, decent make? And how much roughly for a set?

Would expect you can buy enough cable from any auto supply shop and have them cut and fitted to the MC as I have done for cars. Shouldn't be expensive at all. Surely much cheaper than buying a factory set.