Soaking up the past in present-day Lamphun

[misskit]

Just a 30-minute train ride south of Chiang Mai, the small town of Lamphun rarely makes it onto tourists’ maps. But those who make it here are rewarded with golden pagodas, village looms clacking with life, and a refreshing absence of tourists. This is one of Thailand’s oldest cities—and one of its most underrated.


Lamphun is where ancient history and easygoing creativity coexist.


Founded over 1,300 years ago by Queen Chammathewi as the capital of the Hariphunchai Kingdom, Lamphun has retained much of its original soul and beauty.


But beneath its legend and history, Lamphun is quietly coming alive. Local artisans are reimagining traditions, design-savvy cafés are popping up in old shophouses, and a gentle cultural revival is taking root, giving this sleepy town a fresh, quietly contemporary spirit.


The starting point is Wat Phra That Hariphunchai, Lamphun’s spiritual heart and a key pilgrimage site in northern Thailand.


The temple’s towering golden pagoda shimmers in the midday sun, and the monument is a blend of styles—Mon, Dvaravati and Lanna—stacked together like a historical time capsule.


Visit in the early morning and you beat the heat and catch locals offering alms. Stick around and you might hear the low clang of temple bells rolling through the town’s narrow lanes.


Lamphun’s compact center is perfect for exploring on foot.


Walkable, quiet, and low-rise, Lamphun is a world away from Chiang Mai’s bustle. Shophouses around the moat now host creative cafés, tiny art spaces and community-run galleries.


Just steps from Wat Phra That Hariphunchai, The Temple House blends heritage charm with modern creativity—serving up excellent coffee alongside rotating art exhibitions in a beautifully restored wooden house.

If you’re after a bite, grab a plate of khao man gai (Hainanese-style chicken rice) from Thailand Chicken Rice where locals queue for tender chicken, punchy dipping sauce and steamed jasmine rice. For dessert (or breakfast—no judgement), hit up the nearby AqBur Old Town, a retro café, set in a 1950s wooden house.

Try the soft-boiled egg hang lay curry rice if it’s on the chalkboard menu.

To get a feel for Lamphun’s long history, visit the Hariphunchai National Museum. The collection is small but well-curated, spanning from early Dvaravati sculpture to Lanna-era ceramics.


Then, make your way to the Urban Lamphun Museum, a charming little spot tucked inside an old wooden house, filled with black-and-white photos, vintage household tools, and journals from decades past.


For something even older, check out Wat Chammathewi. Said to be the final resting place of the queen who founded the city, its twin brick stupas are some of the oldest in Thailand, covered in rows of weather-worn stucco Buddhas.

It’s a quiet, slightly eerie spot that rewards early risers with great light for photography.


If you have a car, take a ride to Wat Phra Phutthabat Tak Pha, a serene temple perched on a hill with sweeping views of the valley below. Believed to be home to one of Buddha’s footprints, it’s a peaceful place to stretch your legs and enjoy the silence.


Further south, the striking Wat Phra Phutthabat Huai Tom serves as a spiritual and cultural center for the Karen community. Visit in December if you can, when the temple hosts a festival with vegetarian food stalls, traditional dancing and locally made crafts.
Woven into the Fabric of the Land


Lamphun is also a dream for textile fans. In the town center, the Yok Dok Lamphun Thai Cloth Centre invites visitors to watch weavers at work using centuries-old techniques.


You can even try weaving yourself, and there’s a shop selling scarves, paper goods, and indigo-dyed fabric souvenirs.


Head out to Ban Nong Ngueak, a small weaving village where artisans spin and dye their own cotton. Don’t expect tour buses—just open-air looms, friendly aunties, and a sense of timeless tradition.


While Chiang Mai continues to draw the crowds, Lamphun is quietly blossoming in its shadow.


Come here for history without the hype, creativity without the crowds, and a slower pace that lets you notice the little things: the scent of frangipani by a stupa, the sound of silk sliding through a loom, the warm smile of a shopkeeper proud to share their craft.
Lamphun is not a place to tick boxes.


It’s a place to wander, to linger, and maybe, just maybe, to fall in love with the quiet side of northern Thailand.


Getting there


Several trains run daily between Chiang Mai and Lamphun, making the journey easy and flexible. Ticket prices depend on the train type and class, but for this short hop, most travelers choose the affordable 3rd Class (8–40 baht), a popular option that offers an authentic local experience.

Soaking up the past in present-day Lamphun

[Stumpy]

I happen to like the Lamphun area. It's really off the beaten path. Rides up in the surrounding mountains are quite scenic. My wife and I have gone to quite a few nurseries in search of unique plants for our place.

[misskit]

It’s nice. I’m down there every week or so to visit a friend who lives there. My all-time favorite chicken and rice shop is the one mentioned in the article.

Lamphun is growing by becoming a “bedroom” of Chiang Mai. Recently, I read the residents of Lamphun, in general, were wealthier than residents of Chiang Mai.