900km, Potholes, Dirt Roads and an Arse Numbing Experience

**Jesus Jones** · 29-10-2015, 08:31 AM

It had been a while since our last trip, a good 8 months if I remember. And our, not too long ago plan, scrubbed away by family commitments and work. I’d recently replaced the MT60s with another set, after the Heidenau dealer let me down due to his GS Trophy race commitment (priorities eh!). But with 2500km on them already commuting, it was time for a blast!

A long holiday weekend beckoned, and a spur of the moment decision for a ride was arranged! We’d planned on our frequented Ratachaburi, but the night before, we opted for Sakaeo and Aranyaprathet, the Border Market with Poi Pet, Cambodia.
We met at 5:30am to avoid the mass exodus of weekend holiday makers. It’s common to be sat in a cage for 5-10 hours to reach your 200km point. Stuff that! We had a good run for an hour before stopping for the usual coffee break. I needed it as I was truly shafted from the sleepless night due to a surprise attack from the wife! She does that when I’m going on a trip. Is it a reminder, or warning, but whatever it was the coffee sorted me out, if only for the next stop.
I’d been to Sakaeo 10 years ago and remembered the roads being pretty interesting by car, so I was hoping not to disappoint my biking buddy on the trip.

Google Maps says Erm!

With a little help from the annoying google GPS which changes its mind more than a politician up for reelection, for the most part, I was relying on memory. I recalled at our coffee stop a building with a silly Eiffel Tower on top as being a landmark to turn right from the main road to head to Sakeao, and lo and behold, there it was 10 years later, despite the GPS telling us to go ahead! We made good ground with the few cars on the road, heading into a rural section could only get better!
A few KM in we arrived Y section in the road, not remembering the area from that point we followed the GPS which said go ahead. We did just that at hit a few kilometers of potholes that resembled cluster bombs the size of a sink basins in some areas. Dodging them was strangely fun!

After a toilet break and a GPS check, google maps actually surprised us with a dirt road section that went on for a about 5km or so. It made up for the potholes.
We hit some decent tarmac and after being nearly wiped out by oncoming cars that was met with the middle finger and often comes with a bullet to the head! Sheep overtaking with no consideration for bikers, we reached the shit-hole popularly known as ‘The Border Market’.

**Jesus Jones** · 29-10-2015, 08:34 AM

My friend had never been so he didn’t really know what to expect. When I told him dirt, smell, trucks and chaos I think he thought I was joking. We arrived at a quiet period, but after reaching our waypoint, we got out as quickly as we arrived. With no particular place to go, we headed for Tha Phraya National Park, after all, it was all about the ride!

They Say ‘Life is Like a Box of Chocolates’

By this point we had done nearly 400km when we reached the area of the national Park. It was a Forrest Gump moment as we turned back as soon as we got there without stepping a foot in the park. “IT’S ALL ABOUT THE RIDE BRO!” Sadly, my derriere had other opinions, screaming and begging me to stop riding. It was a “So wrong yet so right moment!” We couldn’t stop despite the pain we were both in! We eventually agreed that we needed a proper break, food and a bed for the night so we headed into the main town of Sakaeo. We found an odd looking, new but old place. A place that doesn’t get many visitors so maintenance gets forgotten about. Modern, contemporary rooms that look great but had an odd whiff about them. ‘You never know what you’re going to get in Thailand’. We paid 640 baht, about 12 quid which is a little steep for us. We’re used to 500bht and below being two smelly bikers n’ all! Besides, neither of our backsides had the energy to find anywhere else cheaper. After a shower, an hour's rest and the attire of a civilian, we searched for food and beer. It was knocking on. 7:45pm in fact, and after downing two bottles of beer, it was time for a sleep ready for the morning’s ride. Or so I hoped!

Sleepless in Sakaeo

I lined the wife and asked how she and the daughter was. Passing pleasantries and boasting about her antics the night before. Did I keep you up darling? She asked. Completely forgetting my romantic and tactical side, I told her the truth thinking I was helping. “Don’t worry, it’s this severe eye strain I have that keeps me up all night”. Can you call me later, I’m just having my hair treated, she replied. I twigged on moments later, but I had a Henry Kissenger moment using a ‘self-made’ crisis to my advantage. That’s one in the emotional security bag for me, I thought! She’ll try harder next time, or she might go on strike for another 6 months. Damn!

On to Pastures New

6:30am, another sleepless night and probably a kick in the passionate nuts department, I am running on pure adrenalin at this point. Holly cow, I stayed up watching 22 blokes kick a ball around a big garden!

We left the hotel to find some breakfast, but it was a little too early for most shops in the area. The Coffee Hills coffee shop which opens at 6:30 actually opens at 7am, so we headed to the beautiful Pang Si Da National Park. We arrived at the security gates and was greeted by a soldier who asked for our driving license and charged us the Thai rate.

For both of us it was 150bht, or there about. Foreigners are usually charged 400bht each, and some are complaining expat residents and permit holders are being charged this when they are taxpayers. Let’s not talk about discrimination towards white folk! Thanks to the soldier, we’re 700bht better off which served for fuel.
We grabbed some recently slaughter chicken which was BBQd to perfection, and just what we needed before our swim.

We took a bath and a swim in the waterfall and felt relaxed and fresh for what lay ahead. I’d been here ten years ago and was hoping that place was still the same as many parks a tarmacking the roads for more tourists, we were not disappointed. Roughly 40-50k of dirt roads lay ahead. Feeling fresh, we jumped straight back on our steeds not made for trail riding (APPARENTLY).

**Jesus Jones** · 29-10-2015, 08:37 AM

Dirt, Snakes and Bass-Ass Tires (does that mean good?)

We plowed on down the dirt roads blasting it from time to time. 4x4 and other vehicles use it so caution was made on the corners. Standing on the pegs and pushing the back-end out was thrilling and gave us chance to see obstacles you wouldn’t otherwise see being seated! The Versys with the MT60s felt confident and handled the road well, despite wearing out like an HB pencil erasure on a ‘Flat Bastard!’ 3500km with this trip and the tires are 90% done. Not worth the cost and damn to myself for buying another set. TKC80s on their way.

We stopped to adjust my mirrors which had worked their way lose. We fumbled for 20 mins but could not lock them. We had a moment, or heat and lack of water was the culprit as we were both befuddled as to what we were doing wrong. Change sprocket, valves etc not a problem, but tightening the mirrors on this occasion needed a degree from’ Adams and Washington online University!’ After tightening them by using a tie rap to use as a compressed washer, we headed on, only to be stopped by a striking, green snake. As we dithered as to it being poisonous, and to whom was going to find out, we let it be. After an hours riding on the dirt track we reached a view point, rested briefly, realized we had no water, and headed back from whence we came!

They Came. Nowhere to run. Nowhere to hide. You Can Forget About Swimming!

As we exited the dirt road we noticed a few cars parked on the beginning of the dirt track. The row of cars went on an on all the way back to the waterfall and beyond where we swam. In the space of 2 hours, the small fall which had myself and my friend plus 4 others, now had a mass of people that resembled a scene out of ‘The Walking Dead’. We didn’t see it, but the cars, usually overpacked with people told the chilling tale.

680km Thus far, Let’s a call it a day.

We left the National Park and took a route that would past another small tourist area called Khao Chakan which is a mountain with numerous caves covered with monkeys and bats. We took on some refreshment and made the 200km+ journey home.

**Jesus Jones** · 29-10-2015, 08:38 AM

**VocalNeal** · 29-10-2015, 09:47 AM

A rock velcroed to your tank bag would have been useful?

**baldrick** · 29-10-2015, 10:06 AM

Originally Posted by Jesus Jones

the annoying google GPS which changes its mind more than a politician up for reelection

google maps sh1t me - only useful for its satellite lookdown and streetview

I have been trying here map - offline , it is the old nokia maps - it is better

but I am now going to try maps.me which is offline also and uses openstreetmap.org

you can contribute GPS traces to it as well

also I had been trying out camsam for speed camera locations , but it does not seem to be very up to dtae for thailand and then even if it was it would probably only be a 10% chance that there was actually a working camera in the case

**terry57** · 29-10-2015, 10:13 AM

^

Exactly why I stay with my Garmin Nuvi 55 GPS. Works every time.

There is one little gremlin built into it though.

Every time I'm approaching Bangkok which is to drop the rental back at Bum-Bum airport the little bastard will not recognize the Express way and wants to go the low road.

Outside that it's faultless. Don't Know whats going on with that. ?

**Looper** · 29-10-2015, 10:32 AM

Nice pics, thanks for the thread Jesus.

Originally Posted by terry57

Every time I'm approaching Bangkok which is to drop the rental back at Bum-Bum airport the little bastard will not recognize the Express way and wants to go the low road.

Has it ever taken you on any toll-road? Some GPS have an option to avoid them - you can switch it off.

**terry57** · 29-10-2015, 10:49 AM

^

I'll check that out but the answer is, yes it has.

It will pick up a Toll road or Express way Quite a ways outside Bangkok but then send me off onto a low road as we near Bangkok.

It's done this approaching from all directions into Bangkok. Even leaving Bum-Bum to Koh Chang on my last trip it went straight to the low road out of the Airport before swinging back up onto the tollway a few K's down the road.

Mad fookin thing but I do like it.

Anyway I now know its bitchin way and will fuk it over by making sure I have the Toll way sorted as I approach or leave Bangkok.

It's like a girlfriend you love but you Know she will be a bitch when the painters come around.

**Stinky** · 29-10-2015, 11:33 AM

Great read Jesus thx for posting it.

**baldrick** · 29-10-2015, 11:33 AM

^^ install maps.me on your flash tablet and try it at the same time

**Jesus Jones** · 29-10-2015, 12:32 PM

Originally Posted by VocalNeal

A rock velcroed to your tank bag would have been useful?

Funny you mention that as immediately after I was gritting my teeth wishing Inhad just that!

**VocalNeal** · 29-10-2015, 12:43 PM

^ Get to it. Rocks and velcro are cheap! A nice flat smooth on from the next riverbed you bathe in?

**Ratchaburi** · 29-10-2015, 01:10 PM

Originally Posted by VocalNeal

A rock velcroed to your tank bag would have been useful?

Egg are good

**Jesus Jones** · 29-10-2015, 02:34 PM

^If i was alone I would have turned around and given chance. As much as it angers me I'd love to have thrown something but it would have probably resulted in the death on my pal a 100yrds behind me.

This happened on 3 occasions during the trip.

**Luigi** · 29-10-2015, 02:42 PM

Originally Posted by VocalNeal

A rock velcroed to your tank bag would have been useful?

Can of pink spray paint with a small hose leading to a nozzel on the end of the bargrips.

Give it a good long squirt as they pass.

The closer they are, the more paint they get.

Just make sure you can drive fast and have a clear road ahead.

**terry57** · 29-10-2015, 02:48 PM

^ ^

Pretty much standard behavior for Thai drivers.

They expect any bike or car to pull over onto the shoulder when they overtake into oncoming traffic.

Get it every-time on a road trip. I'm ready for them and allow for them to do it.

Must think this way when driving on Thai roads if one wants to get to the end of the trip.

As far as doing a U turn and chasing them that move could possibly not turn out to be a smart move.

Up to you.

I do well understand your angst though especially when you are on the bike.

Be careful out there mate.

**thailanddogerator** · 29-10-2015, 08:21 PM

So crazy to ride inthis monkey land...

**thaimeme** · 29-10-2015, 08:34 PM

Originally Posted by VocalNeal

A rock velcroed to your tank bag would have been useful?

A retracted direction for his road rage might be more appropriate...

Lovely adventure thread, nonetheless.
Thanks Khun Jesus.

**Dapper** · 29-10-2015, 11:32 PM

Originally Posted by terry57

Pretty much standard behavior for Thai drivers.

They expect any bike or car to pull over onto the shoulder when they overtake into oncoming traffic.

Get it every-time on a road trip. I'm ready for them and allow for them to do it.

Wise words.

I once punched a side window on a car (on a bike) in transit due to a similair situation and knocked myself clean off the bike.

Physics.

**jimbobs** · 09-11-2015, 03:31 AM

I live in the sticks and I am going to change my tyres on the versys for the dual type you have
What do you recommend ?
I bought an airhawk for my arse respect for the klms you done on your V
Great thread

**Jesus Jones** · 09-11-2015, 10:00 AM

Originally Posted by jimbobs

I live in the sticks and I am going to change my tyres on the versys for the dual type you have
What do you recommend ?
I bought an airhawk for my arse respect for the klms you done on your V
Great thread

This is my second set of MT60s and as good as they are, they are not worth the cost as they wear far too quick. Got about 4000km out of the rear.

My m8 is using the Thai brand VeeRubber VRM163 (50/50 tire) which cost about 5k for the set, they seem ok and have had good reviews. Mine were 12k! With this tire you need to lift the front fender as the nubbs with burn through. Warned my m8 about it and he found out the hard way! Easy job and a few places will do it for you.
Had to cut the bottom of the fender off while on a trip

I have just ordered the Heidenau K60 scout (only rear available in this model) for the rear of mine, also a 50/50.

Heidenau have the K73 front and rear which is decent for trails rides too.

Continental also have the TKC80s available in 17" front and rear but not available until December.

Wouldn't touch the Pirelli MT60 again. For the money the Vee Rubber are great and have had decent reviews on adventure rider. A few people have been put off because they are so cheap compared to Pirelli etc, but I've heard bike tour shops in CM have changed all the Versys or Versi and 500x to these tires.

The K73 are about 10k for the set and available from one dealer called AsianaMoto but he is currently taking part in the Baja1000 having just complete the GS Trophy race here. They can post. These guys know their stuff btw.
Here is there facebook page
https://www.facebook.com/Asiana-Moto...97346/?fref=ts

**Cujo** · 09-11-2015, 10:33 AM

Cheers JJ, love these threads.

**jimbobs** · 10-11-2015, 07:34 AM

Thanks for advice JJ especially the front mud guard I never give it a thought

**Jesus Jones** · 10-11-2015, 02:55 PM

Originally Posted by jimbobs

Thanks for advice JJ especially the front mud guard I never give it a thought

The K73s and Pirelli Mt60s don't need to be lifted which is classed a a supermoto tire. Just the ones with raised nubs that are typically 50/50. Only the front is an issue.

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