Thai Dhupp and Princess Joy's Thai House Build

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Originally Posted by Thai Dhupp

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Originally Posted by crackerjack101

Just to add;

Grey water - showers,washing, kitchen - goes to it's own seepage tanks at the back of the garden. Black water - 2 bathrooms and toilets - goes to a triple tank cess pit that is at the opposite corner of the land to the well.

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Thanks for the input CJ... you use that grey water for the garden? I guess so. I planned the same but i was thinking about combining the grey supply, maybe 1000L/day with the residue black water 150L/day after it had been through the settlement / active microbe tanks, and using that for irrigation or out to the drain-field.

only im not sure whether adding the black water residue could have problems, health-wise. Probably do the irrigation on a timer at night, but even so...

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Personally, I would not mix them. Our black water is well away from the plants and trees and will remain so.

As an aside, I no longer eat water melons. Whilst working in Darfur years ago we stopped at a village and bought some superb looking water melons. We tucked in as we continued out trip. Within 6 hours I was exploding from both ends and that then of course that bought on dehydration and 6 days later I came out of the coma.

Turns out the reason the melons looked so good and juicy was that they were fed directly by the black water from the huts.

I can see no real benefits in mixing and a whole lot of potential dangers. If it's going into the garden it's going into the plants, vegetables etc. Not worth it.

Also, if your black water tanks are big enough and set up correctly the seepage should be sufficient to ensure they keep running and never needing a pump out.

We avoid using too much soap or cleaners in the grey water so I'm not worried about that.
We don't use bleaches or toilet cleaner in the toilets so I feel confident we have a good bacterial action going on.

Anyway, to each their own, Good luck to you.

By the way, where do your neighbours get their water? How deep are their wells?

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Originally Posted by crackerjack101

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Thai Dhupp

Quote:

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Originally Posted by crackerjack101

Just to add;

Grey water - showers,washing, kitchen - goes to it's own seepage tanks at the back of the garden. Black water - 2 bathrooms and toilets - goes to a triple tank cess pit that is at the opposite corner of the land to the well.

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Thanks for the input CJ... you use that grey water for the garden? I guess so. I planned the same but i was thinking about combining the grey supply, maybe 1000L/day with the residue black water 150L/day after it had been through the settlement / active microbe tanks, and using that for irrigation or out to the drain-field.

only im not sure whether adding the black water residue could have problems, health-wise. Probably do the irrigation on a timer at night, but even so...

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Personally, I would not mix them. Our black water is well away from the plants and trees and will remain so.

As an aside, I no longer eat water melons. Whilst working in Darfur years ago we stopped at a village and bought some superb looking water melons. We tucked in as we continued out trip. Within 6 hours I was exploding from both ends and that then of course that bought on dehydration and 6 days later I came out of the coma.

Turns out the reason the melons looked so good and juicy was that they were fed directly by the black water from the huts.

I can see no real benefits in mixing and a whole lot of potential dangers. If it's going into the garden it's going into the plants, vegetables etc. Not worth it.

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Cheers, yes... like I say its one of many things i was thinking about - could it be done?, etc. i thought, maybe time in the 'black' system would render it harmless or at least lower the content to a level that could be used, but makes sense what you are saying.

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Originally Posted by Thai Dhupp

you use that grey water for the garden?

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Not as such. It drains into 2 buried tanks and then seeps out slowly.
We don't water the garden with it as such.

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Originally Posted by crackerjack101

Also, if your black water tanks are big enough and set up correctly the seepage should be sufficient to ensure they keep running and never needing a pump out.

We avoid using too much soap or cleaners in the grey water so I'm not worried about that.
We don't use bleaches or toilet cleaner in the toilets so I feel confident we have a good bacterial action going on.

Anyway, to each their own, Good luck to you.

By the way, where do your neighbours get their water? How deep are their wells?

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LOl as yet... no neighbours at all.
1 small hut type house well behind me, but thats it.

there is blue water pipe laid in the road though (the hut-house is connected).

i was thinking of a filter/tank for that one for personal usage / supplement for the rain system

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Originally Posted by Thai Dhupp

there is blue water pipe laid in the road though (the hut-house is connected).

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That's not gov. water then?

Our experience with gov. water has not been good. so much so that when they offered to pipe it us a few years ago we declined.

IMHO a well dug, well lined well or a bore is the best way to go.
You're independent and if you invest the money to get it done properly your looking good. Where's your aquifer?

Rain water collection is then simply a bonus.

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Originally Posted by crackerjack101

Our experience with gov. water has not been good. so much so that when they offered to pipe it us a few years ago we declined.

IMHO a well dug, well lined well or a bore is the best way to go.
You're independent and if you invest the money to get it done properly your looking good. Where's your aquifer?

Rain water collection is then simply a bonus.

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i believe the water table is well down, as we are on a flat but raised up plot. sorry that sounds a bit dopey.. i mean.. the plot is on a v shallow hill, but the hill itself is well up from the surrounding land. frequent visits to the plots over different times of year including after prolonged heavy rain, and with the lowland temporarily flooded has never shown standing water or even slushy water logged ground at my plots.

i still have the bore hole /well idea on the back burner though. Thinking about it, the pipe might not be blue, I think the meter was blue.

i did a bit of research on rain availability to see how 'self sufficient i could be for the toilets, washing machine, etc

https://teakdoor.com/images/imported/2017/04/1772.jpg
this is the avarage rain data for the year for Chonburi.

i went to other data sources to localise it even more - this is the Bo Thong data:
https://teakdoor.com/images/imported/2017/04/1773.jpg

from my sources, i tried a bit of water data modelling on excel:
https://teakdoor.com/images/imported/2017/04/1774.jpg

assuming i had sufficient tank capacity, i reckon i could be water self-sufficient for the toilets etc for 10-11 months of the year!

note, in the model i have the two water streams coming together but that could easily be split...

Simple choice;

A well


or



A bore.


Only way to go IMHO

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Originally Posted by crackerjack101

Simple choice;

A well


or



A bore.


Only way to go IMHO

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I have it on the list to check into the aquifer depth to see how viable it is.
+ the rain collection, maybe 5000-6000L storage
+ that piped wter supply

surely thats enough!?

thanks for your thoughts and input...appreciated

thanks everyone for chipping in with comment etc today - very useful for me

to summarise:

1. dont mix the black and grey water, there is nothing to gain and a lot to lose
2. use the grey water for irrigation
3. black water could be made to seep though the septic tank system, or else run through to the drain field only
4. a borehole provides independence with continuity. Ideally this supply should be filtered
5. rainwater harvesting can be a bonus for toilet and washing machines, possibly the shower too
6. some form of filter system is needed to remove particulate from rainwater harvesting
7. if using a borehole supply, ensure the septic system has no chance to enter that same aquifer anywhere near the borehole location
use septic-friendly chemicals to ensure the 'good' bacteria continue to function

and a couple more from me:
8. a grease trap on the outward lines will lengthen the life of the drain field and system in general
9. avoid washing coffee grounds and macerated food matter down the system for the same reason - they block stuff up, one way or another!
10. sufficient tank capacity should be provided to cover your needs.

Did i cover everything? Hope so... thanks again all.

If I could add to the mix?

I live with a an extended Thai Family, so the focus is not on me, but on the Thai Lifestyle.

Water for washing is the government supplied trickle feed.

How the Thai Family 'harvest water' is to simply run the water off the roof into a collection of Ceramic Jugs.

https://teakdoor.com/images/imported/2017/04/1803.jpg
The Jars used to store the water.

The water remains untouched for a few months so that any particulate matter can drop to the bottom.
Water for cooking is then simply scooped from the top. Ditto for drinking water, but it's run through a small charcoal filter sat on the kitchen benchtop.

We have charcoal makers nearby so, our roof gets filthy so, before the downpipe is placed over the storage vessels, we allow a few thunderstorms to roll over to was the roof.


So, how does this all relate to you?

Three points really.

• In the West, we tend to over-engineer everything. Thailand highlights what can be achieved with not much coin.

• Harvested rainwater, stored correctly is usually good to drink and doesn't need any fancy filtering.

• If you are going to harvest the rain water, you need to have a 'First Flush' system in place to make sure the roof has been rinsed clean.

There are a squillion ways to do this, depending on what your main contaminant is.

https://teakdoor.com/images/imported/2017/04/1804.jpg




https://teakdoor.com/images/imported/2017/04/1805.jpg

Google 'rainwater first flush' for the many options.


As for storing water overhead, your tank height might have to be 6 - 8 meters high.

Water pressure can be measured in three common units, bar, psi and Head (m). 1 bar = 10 metres Head = 14.5 psi.

The water pressure available in a gravity-tank fed system is directly related to the height of the water storage tank. To calculate the available pressure simply measure the distance, in metres, from the bottom of the water tank to the outlet of the tap or shower and multiply by 0.1. This will calculate the pressure in bar…

For example : 0.1 Bar (1.45 psi) is equal to approx one metre of height between the bottom of the water tank and the outlet of the tap or shower.
1 metre height of water = 0.1 bar
2 metre height of water = 0.2 bar
3 metre height of water = 0.3 bar
4 metre height of water = 0.4 bar
etc

The Inground storage tank can be effected by the height of the water table.

Think of a half empty tank akin to a boat in the ocean. It's an issue, but easily overcome. A plus is that your water is 'cool' all the time.

Read more here.


Enjoying your thread immensely.

David


Oh, to clarify, the house in the photo isn't where we live but belongs to an Aunt.
It got damaged in a Storm 2 years ago and has since been demolished and a smaller one built in it's place.
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Cheers David...I just read through you excellent post.

I like that first flush unit...definitely want to include it in my system.

An interesting and informative post.. I think we have got to topic covered...thanks!

DESIGN part 3

Ok... we digressed a lil' bit after I posed that question but now it's time to continue the story for the plans..

You remember we were left with no plans, oh.. and meeting a guy with a gun?

What ever next?

Well, into the mix jumped PJ's brother... he 'knew someone' who could do the plans! ah ha... really? well, bring this guy forward!

A meeting was arranged and thats how we came into contact with the only one-handed architect / draftsman in the business!! yes he could do, he was experienced. yes... but was he busy? too busy to actually complete? no..no came the reply. Then we got my sketches out. i saw his eyes widen a little (probably thinking about the fee to charge.) lol anyway, he said he would take my stuff and go away to see what was needed (Dur.. a set of plans is needed, Bud, not too difficult) and of course the all-important fee.

Soon, back came the info...25,000THB for the set of plans but NOT including electrics, and not including actually getting them approved. however, if we took them and they were not approved, he would make the changes for free. lol quite right I guess.

So we agreed and sat back to wait for the output.

Can you guess? really, can you guess?

lol

yup... after a month, he revealed that he could not do it. No reason given. I smiled, as this was becoming too regular now.

Straight away, PJ was on the case. She called people everywhere and found another guy to (potentially) do the job.

We sent PDFs of what we wanted. he could do it. Everything. Full plans. architect appraisal. engineers calcs. everything. 50k all in. free mods if the orbortor office needed it. He would even come to the OrBorTor office!!

OMG is this for real? Finally!!

To complete the tale, yes we agreed and yes he completed. whoops... he was getting excited too about maybe building the thing!! So much so he accidentally provided a very comprehensive BOQ.

We went to the OBT. as promised, he approved. dropped him a bottle as thanks which was enthusiastically received. The building permit, etc were all drawn up , stamped and signed, and...finally... we were ready to start!!

In the last part of this i will explain some of the design considerations that went into the floor plans, etc that were approved, but for now... my typing hand needs a rest.

Happy weekend, everybody (I'm at work, of course)

By the way, apropos water supplies, our neighbour is getting a bore put in. 60 meters deep more or less, plus all fixtures and fittings, casings, slab etc. Cost = around 60,000 baht.

Purifying a dirty (by rain) water or rusty water:

Beside settling, sedimenting in a storage tank, a good help is a wonderful material in Thailand easily and cheaply available: SaanSom (Alum). That is what our fathers used to stop bleeding after shaving.

People in village know about that, they add it to the storage tank for faster settling.

The miraculous flocculating effects even at a strong rusty water I have described in my thread about affordable swimming pool:

https://teakdoor.com/construction-in-...ml#post2860357

How to purify rusty (by iron) water:
https://teakdoor.com/construction-in-...ml#post2853328

Yes, alum is useful. When we first moved up here she used it a lot, possibly to excess. Thankfully we no longer need it but it certainly helps. Moderation in all things though.

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Originally Posted by crackerjack101

By the way, apropos water supplies, our neighbour is getting a bore put in. 60 meters deep more or less, plus all fixtures and fittings, casings, slab etc. Cost = around 60,000 baht.

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does that include the pump itself?

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Originally Posted by Klondyke

Purifying a dirty (by rain) water or rusty water:

Beside settling, sedimenting in a storage tank, a good help is a wonderful material in Thailand easily and cheaply available: SaanSom (Alum). That is what our fathers used to stop bleeding after shaving.

People in village know about that, they add it to the storage tank for faster settling.

The miraculous flocculating effects even at a strong rusty water I have described in my thread about affordable swimming pool:

https://teakdoor.com/construction-in-...ml#post2860357

How to purify rusty (by iron) water:
https://teakdoor.com/construction-in-...ml#post2853328

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Thanks Klondyke - a useful addition. Noted

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Originally Posted by Thai Dhupp

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Originally Posted by crackerjack101

By the way, apropos water supplies, our neighbour is getting a bore put in. 60 meters deep more or less, plus all fixtures and fittings, casings, slab etc. Cost = around 60,000 baht.

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does that include the pump itself?

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Not as far as I know. That would be up to the customer. I will inquire.

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Originally Posted by Thai Dhupp

So much so he accidentally provided a very comprehensive BOQ.

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A must have. I did my own plans using software that allowed me to cost out all materials. Using material cost and expected labor (throw a u in for you brit folks :) ) it gave me a benchmark to figure a reasonable all in price from a builder. Ended up contracting 18% above labor and materials. Fair nuff so deal struck after he showed me a couple houses he built. Very important because what you see is what you get as far as workmanship goes.

Water and sewage always important when building in the middle of no where. What you do depends on local conditions obviously. Reliability and quality of local water supply is factor which drives much of your planning.

Size of holding tank, need for a borehole, type of filtering and need for rainwater collection all depend on local water supply.

I had in mind a borehole but after checking around it turns out ground water in my area has high salinity so I rejected the idea.

Disruption of water supply a problem so I installed a 2000 litre below ground tank. Gives me about 2 days reserve with a bit of conservation. I also do not have rainwater collection other than what the wife uses for gardening. A couple big ceramic pots fed from rain gutter.

Although the village water supply has a bit of sediment and certain times of the year smells a bit it is otherwise not bad. I have a single activated charcoal filter which does a good job removing sediment and smell but I sure ain't going to drink it. :)

Monthly water bill is 300 baht and we sure don't skimp.

Check out your local water supply. You may find many of the water related things you're considering become unnecessary nice to have items.

Lots of good suggestions above re sewage so will refrain from further comment.

Looking forward to more.

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Originally Posted by Norton

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Originally Posted by Thai Dhupp

So much so he accidentally provided a very comprehensive BOQ.

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A must have. I did my own plans using software that allowed me to cost out all materials. Using material cost and expected labor (throw a u in for you brit folks :) ) it gave me a benchmark to figure a reasonable all in price from a builder. Ended up contracting 18% above labor and materials. Fair nuff so deal struck after he showed me a couple houses he built. Very important because what you see is what you get as far as workmanship goes.

Water and sewage always important when building in the middle of no where. What you do depends on local conditions obviously. Reliability and quality of local water supply is factor which drives much of your planning.

Size of holding tank, need for a borehole, type of filtering and need for rainwater collection all depend on local water supply.

I had in mind a borehole but after checking around it turns out ground water in my area has high salinity so I rejected the idea.

Disruption of water supply a problem so I installed a 2000 litre below ground tank. Gives me about 2 days reserve with a bit of conservation. I also do not have rainwater collection other than what the wife uses for gardening. A couple big ceramic pots fed from rain gutter.

Although the village water supply has a bit of sediment and certain times of the year smells a bit it is otherwise not bad. I have a single activated charcoal filter which does a good job removing sediment and smell but I sure ain't going to drink it. :)

Monthly water bill is 300 baht and we sure don't skimp.

Check out your local water supply. You may find many of the water related things you're considering become unnecessary nice to have items.

Lots of good suggestions above re sewage so will refrain from further comment.

Looking forward to more.

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Cheers, Norton...tonnes of good stuff in there, and yes for sure i will check out the supply... i am also mindful of the future though, as was mentioned by CrackerJack101 - water supply may well become an issue for me too... quite a few of the plots have been sold around this area, all putting pressure on that piped supply.

By doing the modelling, i can see that the toilets and washing machine might use 6m3/month minimum so if i can be self-sufficient in that side of it, it eases the piped water consumption, esp if the supply becomes more and more regulated and we have to tank it to have sufficient over a 24 hour period.

All that before investigating the bore hole option, or using the rain harvesting for baths/showers, etc.

I definitely want to keep all the options open and... fitting a few rain harvesting storage tanks while building is not so onerous.

As always, thanks for your useful input.

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Originally Posted by Thai Dhupp

mindful of the future

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Especially in properties within a couple hour drive of Bangkok. Infrastructure development in Thailand always lags demand.

PROGRESS

Just submitted my ground raising proposals with that fill material to the OrBorTor. Apparently here, we can't just 'do it', we have to take permission and it's included in an update on the building permit?

Is this the same for you guys 'up North'!?

Anyway, we did it through 'digital media' and the Engineer said the doc update will take 4 days so it should be all completed before we get back to Chonburi mid-May. ie no hold up on the raising of the land.

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Originally Posted by Thai Dhupp

Just submitted my ground raising proposals with that fill material to the OrBorTor. Apparently here, we can't just 'do it', we have to take permission and it's included in an update on the building permit?

Is this the same for you guys 'up North'!?

Anyway, we did it through 'digital media' and the Engineer said the doc update will take 4 days so it should be all completed before we get back to Chonburi mid-May. ie no hold up on the raising of the land.

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No restrictions up here mate. OK if someone intends knocking up a bloody great resort then "yes" but for a private house one just seems to be able to get on with it.

Excellent idea to keep in with all the bureaucrats and powers that be though. Make sure you invite them to the various groundbreaking ceremonies, blessings etc.

Wine 'em and dine 'em and they'll be onside.

Good luck.

By the way, what are your plans for power?

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Originally Posted by crackerjack101

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Originally Posted by Thai Dhupp

Just submitted my ground raising proposals with that fill material to the OrBorTor. Apparently here, we can't just 'do it', we have to take permission and it's included in an update on the building permit?

Is this the same for you guys 'up North'!?

Anyway, we did it through 'digital media' and the Engineer said the doc update will take 4 days so it should be all completed before we get back to Chonburi mid-May. ie no hold up on the raising of the land.

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No restrictions up here mate. OK if someone intends knocking up a bloody great resort then "yes" but for a private house one just seems to be able to get on with it.

Excellent idea to keep in with all the bureaucrats and powers that be though. Make sure you invite them to the various groundbreaking ceremonies, blessings etc.

Wine 'em and dine 'em and they'll be onside.

Good luck.

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Thanks CJ... yes totally agree... we are 'in' with that OBT as he wants Farangs to settle in the area. Still got to do it by the book though - I don't want any 'issues' later on!

Hes already got his name down for the housewarming party at the end but im sure he will pop over during construction at the right moments!

With regards to power? We have a supply right outside the plot so we will be able to tee off it at the required time. I would like to investigate solar, but at a much later date. Depends if we can secure that adjacent plot, which would give us the space. I will try to pursue that when we go back next month.

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Originally Posted by Thai Dhupp

Is this the same for you guys 'up North'!?

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Here in the northeast it's rare folks get building approval much less approval to raise the ground.

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Originally Posted by Norton

Here in the northeast it's rare folks get building approval much less approval to raise the ground.

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Really, I'm surprised.
Why is that?
As you know I've only been out your way once so I know nothing.

Do you mean they don't bother getting approval or that they can't get it?

Same out my way in Surin province outside town. Both homes I've built never once had any permit or approved plans for anything. Not even for fill dirt. Only time I remember having people out were from the PEA for electrical meters. They didn't even inspect anything. Just installed the meter(s).

First house was designed on A4 paper with pencil & ruler and literally built from that. I eyeballed the roof pitch with a guy standing up there with a tape measure.

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Originally Posted by crackerjack101

Do you mean they don't bother getting approval or that they can't get it?

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They don't bother unless in Roiet city or one of the bigger Amphurs. Never heard of a problem about no permit in the village but sometimes a prob if you encroach on anothers property.

I did get mine approved even though the puyai ban and the builder said no need.

Interesting! Different rules different provinces

Anyway... after my best plans, just been told 'no'...can't do it digitally and we have to take the original plans, permit etc to Orbortor to include the changes so thats 1st day job when we get back.

Roughly how long will 100 loads take to tip and level? It's not coming from too far away. I'm just trying to get a feel for the timescale. might not be that many loads but...I bet it is!!

It'll be faster if you're paying by the job instead of per load.

Best case: about 10 working days including tractor work. Unlikely though.

Worst case: maybe a month or more.

Maybe chonburi is more efficient.

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Originally Posted by Slick

It'll be faster if you're paying by the job instead of per load.

Best case: about 10 working days including tractor work. Unlikely though.

Worst case: maybe a month or more.

Maybe chonburi is more efficient.

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10 days! Seems a lot to me.
Round here they'll have 5 + trucks running dawn till dusk. A good size back hoe loading and a medium size tractor with a blade doing the leveling.
Of course the distance to travel is the crucial factor but they seem to try and get the job done asap.
I would think more like 5 days to complete. Then they'll be onto the next job.

My son in law drives such trucks and he works flat out 7 days a week. Gets paid by the load and he makes pretty good money.

But, as you pointed out things vary from region to region.

Could be 5 days start to finish. I honestly don't remember how long they took doing our places but I don't think it was 20 loads a day + grading with tractor.

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Originally Posted by Thai Dhupp

Roughly how long will 100 loads take to tip and level?

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Originally Posted by crackerjack101

I would think more like 5 days to complete

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Agree.

Evening , gents - I just got back in the office so reading the posts -

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Originally Posted by

Slick
It'll be faster if you're paying by the job instead of per load.

Best case: about 10 working days including tractor work. Unlikely though.

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Jeez, I hope not Slick! im only back for 10 days total!

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Norton
I would think more like 5 days to complete. Then they'll be onto the next job.

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yeah Norton, thats more like it!

following your last posts, it looks like we are all now in agreement..

I was hoping for about 5 days. Maybe I will just tell 'em...as many loads as you can, up to 100 loads in 5 days or less. If you get to 5 days, stop. that should make sure 100 loads in 5 days or less.

Of course I shall be on hand to ensure they are 8m3 loads, not wheelbarrows full

DESIGN part 4

OK, in this final part of design, I will list out some of the considerations that went into my design. remember, this is not necessarily the best way to do everything, just my way to do it. Constructive comment, or frivolity are both welcome. Praise n admiration more so, but probably less likely!!


1. As you know from my earlier posts, we wanted a traditional-looking construction, but with modern building practises employed. Therefore, the construction will be block and cement, with plank and slab flooring, rendered and painted walls on the ground floor, clad on the upper floor


Heat Reduction

2. To help in heat reduction we will use Q-Con (or similar) block wall construction

3. similarly, heat reflection under the roof tiles
4. air flow-through in the roof void to remove the hot air
5. large roof overhangs to keep the sunlight out of the windows
6. not excessively large windows - in keeping with tradition and higher up on the wall.
7. some cathedral-style roofs on the upper floor. All ceiling height is already 3m but I hope to add 1-1.5m of additional clearance upstairs by raising those upper floor ceilings, thus lifting any warm air even higher from the living space
8. Matched A/C throughout based on room volumes and hopefully cooler starting point.
9. investigating options with heat-reflective glass for the windows and folding patio doors

Water Conservation

10. use of rainwater harvesting to reduce reliance on other sources, and cut some long term running costs
11. use of grey water for irrigation. along with any rain harvesting excess

General Layout considerations

12. master bedroom suite 'wing' with dressing room and full sized en-suite. apparently we spend a third of our lives in bed so...might as well have all the comforts to hand
13. large indoor kitchen with breakfast bar, island - kitchen the heart of the house, right? separate dining room for more formal dinners, etc
14. external kitchen BBQ area for the obligatory incinerations
15. large lower level shaded external sitting area - my design plans one 10m x 8m
16. Minimum 4 bedrooms - family plus visitors needs it
17. indoors living area, but by having a folding door arrangement, this 'extends' out to outdoor living space on the 1st floor verandah
18. Separate office. I am planning ahead that this could become a downstairs bedroom if the stairs become too difficult. well...it's that or install a lift
19. Area to add gym and TV room in the future (under building 3)
20. by having the large external area at ground level, and with access from the kitchen, and with a WC provision under building 3, visitors never need to go 'upstairs' keeping that as our private living area.(so I can slob around in peace, with no witnesses)

Electrics

21. once completed, I see three buildings x 2 floors so... 6 electrical zones x lighting and powerpoint circuits, plus cooker circuit and external lighting circuit, so 14 breakers (the electricians out there can correct me if this is overkill)
22. sufficient power points in each room!
23. low-energy lighting where possible
24. a properly (to western standards) earthed system
25. external security system, CCTV, etc
26. house intruder alarm system

Plumbing

27. separate systems for black and grey water
28. all black water furniture to be against or very close to external walls
29. three smaller septic tank arrangements, passing the fluid element to a single tank adj to the drain field
30. water holding tanks to regulate the supply to the house

External

31. provision for swimming pool later
32. privacy with perimeter wall, after house is constructed
33. Japanese-style ornamental fish pond (no...not a fishing lake, PJ) near to dining room

Princess Joy's requirements

34. Buddha room
35. privacy
... check and .. check!

Phew! as you can see, I have a lot of time on my hands here in the Middle East. gives me the chance to compile wish lists, must haves, etc. I want it all, but some things might take time. Which is fine, of course.

Will upload some of the final plans, elevations details etc next.

Let's hope you can find the right people to do the work.

Sounds very impressive, mate. Good luck with it.