Thread: A Journey to Sukhothai

Wat Phra Phai Luang - Located outside the city walls. May have been the center of Sukhothai during the Khmer Angkor period (prior to the 13th century).


Hot Chinese chick peddling around Wat Phra Phai Luang


Wat Si Chum - The Buddha Image is called Phra Ajana. The image is housed in a Mandapa that includes a tunnel leading to the upper part of the roof.


Wat Si Chum


Wat Chetuphon - Classic Sukhothai style walking Buddha. Note the graceful pose.


Wat Chetuphon


Remains of stuccoed Buddha Image at Wat Chetuphon


Wat Chetuphon - These unusual slate walls are carved as if they were wood.

Next up: Wat Ton Chan

Wat Ton Chan - Brick chedi with niches for Buddha images.


Wat Ton Chan - Votive Tablets (Sanaechan)


Chedi at Wat Ton Chan


Stucco Buddha image at Wat Ton Chan


Wat Chang Lom - "Chang Lom" means "encircled by elephants". 36 in this case.


Wat Chang Lom


Wat Chang Lom


Someone is building this draft kiln near Wat Chang Lom. It is smaller than, but works the same as the kilns used to make the famous Sukhothai-style ceramics.

Driving in the lower North was a motoring experience like none other that I've had in Thailand. I'm used to the "me first" drivers in urban areas like Korat and Bangkok; drivers who are assertive, aggressive and who demand the right of way no matter what the situation. The drivers of the lower North are more "me only". They drive as if theirs was the only vehicle on the road. Motorcyclists center themselves in the middle of the lane and will not budge for any other vehicle; not matter how large, loud or dangerous. All the farmers seem to have 1.5 liter Izusu pickup trucks that have been specially modified to have a top speed of about 60 KPH. On a dual carriage-way road they tend to straddle the lane line; instantly reducing the highway to one lane in each direction.

The people of the lower North seem to have a distorted sense of distance. At one point we found ourselves on a new bypass road just outside of old Sukhothai when I noticed the fuel gauge flashing on empty. The road was devoid of road signs, filling stations or other indications of modern civilization. We finally found a motorcyclist stopped by the side of the road. We asked about a petrol station and she replied that sure, there was one just up the road and very close indeed. After driving 10K with not a station in sight we panicked and found the little place pictured in the first photo of this thread.

A few days later we were looking for a certain cave. We'd seen a sign in town which indicated to us that the cave was nearby. We followed the sign's arrow for a long way, but lost sight of signs and never found the cave. We asked a couple of young ladies who told us that the cave was very close. Just head down to the four way intersection and turn right. The four way intersection turned out to be nearly 10K down the road. Upon arrival there we found a sign indicating that the cave was another 13K. Now, perhaps on a global scale 23K is not far, but to a couple of tourists looking for nearby attractions, it seemed other than "close".

The signs in and around old Sukhothai are enormously confusing. At one point we were looking for some wat or other and came to a fork in the road. Sure enough, two signs to the wat were posted; one indicating the left fork and the other indicating the right. Sometimes you'll spot a sign pointing the way to an attraction only to discover that the signs end with no further hints on just where to go or whether or not a turn is necessary. At other times you'll encounter long stretches of highway with no signs anywhere, including at big intersections.

The Sukhothai Historical Park is equally lacking in signs. The largest "feature" of the park is Wat Mahathat, which has four entrances. Only one of these entrances is has a sign and, unfortunately, this is not the first entrance you encounter after you leave the main park entry kiosk. It took us quite a bit of wandering before we discovered that we were actually within the confines of this fine old complex.

The tourist maps we were given were equally confusing. We got one from our hotel and one from the bicycle rental company. These hand drawn maps were both inaccurate and in conflict with each other; sometimes placing wats and other structures in entirely the wrong spot.

In summary, an up-to-date, accurate and detailed map of the area is essential. Unless, of course, you have as much fun as we did driving aimlessly around the city both lost and bemused.

Originally Posted by Anonymous Coward

The drivers of the lower North are more "me only". They drive as if theirs was the only vehicle on the road. Motorcyclists center themselves in the middle of the lane and will not budge for any other vehicle; not matter how large, loud or dangerous. All the farmers seem to have 1.5 liter Izusu pickup trucks that have been specially modified to have a top speed of about 60 KPH.

You should have called in while you were in the area, the bike was probably me, sorry about that.

Si Satchanalai Historical Park is just an hour's drive north of Old Sukhothai and well worth the trip. While Old Sukhothai is full of and surrounded by commercial enterprise Si Satchanalai is an enormously pleasant park containing numerous historical structures and almost nothing else. On the morning we visited, we were the only ones there.

As we approached the park we noticed a huge stupa in the jungle. As we rounded a curve we saw a sign, but no place to park. I pulled the car as far off the road as possible and in we hiked to


Wat Sa Kaeo


There is this crumbling chedi with a lotus bud tower.


A little further on is wat Khao Yai.


Wat Khao Yai

Inside the park proper the first wat you see is


Wat Chang Lom. This means "wat encircled by elephants".


There are some real elephants to be fed as well. I note that they do not peel the bananas before eating.


Wat Chang Lom was built by King RamKhamhaeng in the late 13th century.


It is better preserved than the wat of the same name in Old Sukhothai.


The wat has many Buddha images in niches like this.


View of the remains of the wat's vihan from the chedi. Looking southwest.


It appears that the elephant figures were made from laterite blocks covered with stucco.

Next up: Wat Chedi Jet Thaew

Wat Chedi Jet Thaew - This wat has seven chedi one of which includes this beautiful image of Buddha seated on a coiled cobra.


Wat Chedi Jet Thaew


Wat Chedi Jet Thaew


Wat Kuti Rai - This monastery wat is located just outside the city wall at the north gate.


The city wall is in very good shape.


Fishermen at the Khaeng Luang Rapids.


- A monastery outside the city walls.

Just southeast of Si Satchanalai is the ancient area of Chailiang.


Wat Chao Chan - Ancient Khmer architectural style wat.


Remains of a standing Buddha at Wat Chao Chan


Wat Chom Chuen - Contains a Ceylonese chedi and mondop and now-roofless wihan (sanctuary).


Wat Mahathat - The full name is Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat. Contains a large laterite chedi between two wihan.


Small chedi at Wat Mahathat with Buddha image seated on a cobra.


Wat Mahathat - Seated Sukhothai-style Buddha image.


Graceful walking Buddha at Wat Mahathat.

Two seated Buddha images in slightly different styles at Wat Mahathat. The one behind is pre-Sukhothai style. Note the fuller, square face. The Sukhothai Buddha image has an oval face and slender, sinuous body and the characteristic flame replacing the topknot on the head.

On the way back to old Sukhothai we stopped at new Sukhothai to see the Phra Mae Ya Shrine. This shrine is supposed to have built by King Ramkhamhaeng as a dedication to his mother.


Phra Mae Ya Shrine

Next up: Phitsanulok

On the way back to Korat we stopped off in Phitsanulok for a night.


First stop was Wat Yai, AKA Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat or Wat Phra Si. The Ms. makes merit.


This is the famous Chinnarat Buddha Image. Note the unusual flame-like halo around the head and body which transforms into dragon or naga heads on each side.


Two images of Hotei. This deity of contentment and abundance represents the Maitreya or "future Buddha" who will some day appear on Earth.


They're doing some archaeological work on the old wihan at Wat Yai.


Wat Nang Phaya - Note that the Buddha image is copied after the Chinnarat Buddha.

Wat Ratchaburana - When we visited this wat there were a bunch of school kids. Here they pay close attention to their tour guide. Note the Sukhothai style columns with their lotus bud capitals.


Wat Ratchaburana - I'm sure the school kids were just as fascinated as I was by the collection of old stuff on hand.


Wat Ratchaburana - The chedi in the background is all that's left of the original wat. The other structures are relatively recent.


Nice wall mural at Wat Rachaburana.


The Mae Nam Nan (Nan River) runs through Phitsanulok. There are lots of houseboats, some floating restaurants and a nice promenade with shops, pubs and restaurants.

A few K south of town is Wat Chulamani, the oldest in the province.


Buddha footprint at Wat Chulamani.


Wat Chulamani - Khmer-style lintel with walking Buddha.


Happy hour at sunset on the river.


The last beer. Well, almost the last beer.


Lighted bridge on the Nan River.

Great pictures. I wish i had taken a similar number of photos when I last went to Sukhothai