I must admit I used blue pipe for my multi-point heater in my original house in CM
7 years on and it is still fine
I must admit I used blue pipe for my multi-point heater in my original house in CM
7 years on and it is still fine
like always i think a combination is always best, blue for cold green for hot, copper ends and all is well. The green pipe i found was 2 white stripes, which is high pressure guaged.
I must admit if i could loan the tool i would get the green, without question, but i might just go blue.
im hot its so hot today.......milk was a bad choice!
blue is OK as long as it is accessible, just to make sure
Isn't the problem of using blue pipe for hot water that the pipe will sag more on long, unsupported runs?
I'm going to use green pipe to connect some rooftop solar water heaters to the guestroom shower mixer - so that special tool will be available for loan in Phuket
Simon
Simon
The tool only does upto 30mm ends, so blue for cold with access. got it!
well, it always needs supporting, every metre or soOriginally Posted by Simon43
Some information about the different plastic resins used to produce such pipe.
Polyvinyl chloride - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Polypropylene - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
With regard to using these resins for applications such as water pipes it's all about the given plasticizing temperature meaning when the structure starts to change from a solid mass into a liquid when exposed to heat.
There is/was one on Sukhumvit Soi 24 in Bangkok.Originally Posted by oldgit
I would've though borrowing the tool would be more useful?Originally Posted by benlovesnuk
I think that would be well above the boiling point for water thoughOriginally Posted by Loy Toy
Polypropylene starts to soften, change from a solid mass into a liquid at 158 degrees Celsius. It's processing temperature, depending upon the grade of PP is between 220c and 250c. There are many different grades of PP and used depending upon it's application.Originally Posted by DrAndy
We use PP exclusively for our packaging as it has a great impact resistance, has good top load strength is fairly cheap and performs well at high and low temperatures.
This plastic also changes it's molecular structure (glass transition) at minus 8 degrees Celsius if you drop the container it will crack like glass.
That's why some plastic pipe cracks when subjected to very low temperatures.
so the pipes would be Ok for hot water
that's good
If the water is not very hot, OKOriginally Posted by DrAndy
You should be thinking about the joints not the pipe.
I have watched someone place a glued PVC joint into boiling water and pull it apart.
unless you have a solar panel, the water will not be even near boiling in most domestic hot water situations
yes, the joints would be the weak point, not the pipes, so they have to be properly "glued"
Some plastics can expand by 5% across it's diameter when subjected to a temperature above 100 degrees Celsius.Originally Posted by Thetyim
As the outer joint, and based upon your experiment, is in direct contact with the hot water there is a good chance it will disengage with the pipe upon expansion.
And I would expect the glue that was used was probably a water based glue as an epoxy glue cannot re-plasticize after first application (or it was poorly glued in the first place).
Ahh yes, good point. The heat is being applied from the inside when in useOriginally Posted by Loy Toy
The standard PVC solvent had been used.Originally Posted by Loy Toy
He was doing an emergency repair at night and need to re-use the fittings
the 'glue' they use is more of a solvent, so it is easy to not do a proper job unless careful
as for joints being subject to expansion, as they are heated from the INSIDE they will become tighter and will not come apart
but thanks for the tip, Thetyim, next time I need a joint urgently I know what to do
I have reported your post
A bit off-topic but I need advice here.
I have had more than my fair share of trouble when installing PVC ball valves.
The solvent just doesn't seem to work on the ball valves as well as it does on the fittings.
errmm, where would you use solvent on ball valves?
they are screw fit, as far as I know, you just screw on the pipe fitting and use the white tape
then the pipe can be glued into the fitting
This type of ball valve
It is glued in
Solvent based adhesives and most crystalline structure plastics don't go well together due to the fact the solvent migrates into the plastic structure melting/ softening/ eventually destroying it.Originally Posted by Thetyim
Keep the solvent well away from the ball joints and apply sparingly where you need it.
Other than that you can heat weld or use a clamp to secure the joint with silicon as your major sealant.
great thread and useful for me. our builders tried to install the green hot pipe themselves without "the tool" by shaving and fitting the pipes together with Thai Pipe. they leaked at every joint as soon as we tested - even with cold water. if you use green pipe you have to get that tool. its porous otherwise.
we ripped all the green pipe out and have open walls on the outside of our house. my wife called the pipe company and they said blue pipe is rated to 80C. since our boiler wont go over 40C i think it will work. now i am just waiting for all this rain to stop so i can get it done myself.
i only had a question about the heat rating of Thai Pipe glue. anybody know this one?
i thought about just wrapping the joints with heat tape after i glue the inside and outside. but maybe its not required.
I think that was discussed already; the pipes are Ok for reasonably hot water but the joints are the weakest linkOriginally Posted by pkspirate
should be OK for you though at 40C
OK, thanksOriginally Posted by DrAndy
Maybe I will have more luck if I try another brand.
I spend extra time preparing the surfaces to be glued and leave double the time for the glue to set but some of them just fail
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