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Hi dougle you have confussed me now, I thought that by putting eaves at each side was for ventalation is there other way to do this for roof?
Cheers
Jason
Are we getting confused by nomenclature?
On a Thai house the eaves will typically extend beyond the walls by a metre. Some people will simply board up the underside of the eaves to seal them from insects and whatever getting in amaking a home in your roof. But as an option you could use vents in the eaves backed by mosquito mesh to allow the circulation of air into the roof space.
From you reply I suspect that you are thinking of the mini gable ends that project out from the roof at right angles (I don't know what the technical name is for these).
Good idea.But as an option you could use vents in the eaves backed by mosquito mesh to allow the circulation of air into the roof space.
I haven't read through the entire thread, only the first page.
For what's it's worth, and my apologies to any who already stated this, but if I was to build in a tropical climate, in regards to cooling, I would:
Use steel trusses. Install 'stryofoam' insulation in 2 x 8 panels on the roof under the roofing material, which would be one of the new materials that look like tile. Build long eaves that cover the sides of the house as much as feasible.
Install at least one, maybe more, enclosed exhaust ceiling fans in the highest points of the ceiling areas. Enclosed, because they tend to be noisy if the quality is not good. Buy the best fan money can buy.
Install an electronic control that automatically turns on the fan when temps get too hot. First one fan, then the others.
Done right, most of the year, air condintioning won't be needed.
[btw: my grandfather, my father, myself and my son have been or are building contractors.]
btw 2: that 'superblock' is a great idea and I don't know why more of it isn;t being used in Thailand. I would insist on it.
I haven't seen these tiles for sale in Thailand. Steel trusses and overhanging eaves are pretty much standard in LOS. Styrofoam sheet I haven't seen either but rolls of foil are, or you can have foam sprayed on the underside of the roof. I plan to install rof fans in the next house I build.Originally Posted by kerux
Another option I have seen is to install a water spray on the roof which runs on a timer.
That spray on foam is well.....not my first choice, or my second.
Back to an old theme.
My new house is coming on, and this week the brickies started to lay the blocks. I am using 20cm insulating blocks for all outside walls and as a very unscientific test I put the flat of my hand on the inside face of a 20cm concrete column and felt the heat and then did the same on a block laid in the wall next to it. I would say that there was a good 5c difference in the temperture of the two surfaces. The wall I tried this on was South facing and had the benefit of full sunlight for at least nine hours.
If anyone knows where I can get a stick on surface thermometer I will try and do a more scientific test.
I am in the process of planning a sound studio, here in Pattaya. My research has led me to believe that the best sound and thermal insulation is from Insulated Concrete Forms, ICF's. These are blocks made from Expanded PolyStyrene, EPS. They look like styrofoam cinderblocks. They are the form for your concrete pour, and remain in the concrete. Nothing I've read of has their sound and thermal insulation qualities, plus they are more impervious to moisture, bugs than anything else I've been able to find. The U.S. government recommends them for building hurricane "proof" shelters. They are not made in Thailand, sad, because the best ones are made from recycled eps. I am have narrowed my search, on the basis of availability and costs of shipping, to 2 companies, Formtech, and Eco-Block, Formtech has a plant in Malaysia, so truck shipping should be cheap. They also are a mfg or distributor of "Insul-deck",an eps product for ceilings and floors. ICF's are not expensive, my costs for a 10x9x3 meter building will be under 50,000baht. Now I just have to find an architect whose eyes don't glaze over at the mention of building with ICF's, a "new" thing in Thailand. This site is not letting me put in weblinks for these companies, so drop me a line if you want them, tho google will get you to them also. thaimat2003 at yahoo.com
Last edited by thaimat; 15-12-2006 at 10:09 AM.
Another option is to have a lot of windows who allows a maximum air flow. Celling 3 meters high helps also as hot air tend to ride. My home have a lot of opened windows and high concrete cellings ang it's always very cool inside. All my neighbours are wondering why myOriginally Posted by Dougal
living room is so cool in the hot season. Just let the air circulate in the house.
I've got a question about venting the attic space. My new house has a hipped roof so there is no room for vents other than in the soffit under the eaves. We asked about putting one of those rotating turbine vents in the roof, but were told this is an allowed as it would be "ugly".
Any other ideas or will the soffit vents at the corners be sufficient?
Not 'authentic' Q Con but made in the same way. My builder got them from Lopburi for 40B each.Originally Posted by Boon Mee
Can you get them to raise a section of the roof to make a vent at the top. That should not involve much additional work. Not having a proper roof vent was one of the biggest mistakes we made when we specified our current cheapy bungalow. Standing on a chair and feeling the ceiling tiles is like putting your hand on a warm radiator.Originally Posted by Anonymous Coward
I would also like to experiment with a water spray on the roof.
I'm afraid the roof is already welded in.Originally Posted by Dougal
I may just go ahead an add a turbine vent on a less visible part of the roof after we move in.
We built my house out of 20cm y-tong thermal bricks 3 years ago, the insultation qualties are great & keep the house lovely & cool, only make the outside walls out of these, save money & make the interior walls out of regular bricks, the high ceilings & plenty of windows also help the house keep ventilated & cool, I wouldn't bother spraying the inside of the roof with foam makes a right mess, I know a farang builder down the coast a bit who put some fancy roof tiles on a house & they were pourous, instead of replacing them he sprayed foam onto the inside of the roof, what a joke, he also has the reputation of never finishing of a job as well, no names here, better to use q-con roofing foil under the roofing tiles, works pretty well on the insulation front
I agree, we are going to use foil under the tiles and also use the foil backed plasterboard. There are a number of different types of foil for the the roof and as we this is the first time we have used it we are opting for the cheapest. The main living area is having a half cathedral roof and we are installing fans into each of two gable vents to draw out hot air - well that's the theory anyway.Originally Posted by dickie
We had the roofing material that was used when we built as I never liked it and we had a terrible idiot when we built, I used the tiles and alum. under them that will carry the air between the foil and the tiles uo to the peak and then out thru some vents [turbo style] that will be fitted to the roof ridge later when they are built, They didn't have the insulating blocks when we built, but a friend who built a couple of years ago has it and I think it is great,
But we did have the ceilings changed from the suspended tile stuff to solid sealed sheet rock, a roof vent installed below the roof and 2 layers of 3 in. foil covered glass fiber ins., and with the aircons on they do not run much, and with windows open at night during cool nites and closed early it stays cool til long into the afternoons.
There are some pics of the new roof going on in the last few pages of the fotki like I posted.
Here is a system I haven't seen before, they are using an insulation material which seems to be much the same as a survival blanket, but the roof tile fixings seem to be made of galvanised steel, wouldn't the humidity cause a reaction between the normal steel and the galvanised?
If my schoolboy physics serves me correctly any reaction will tend to transfer the galvanised material, usually zinc or a similar material, to the unplated component. The worst that is likely to happen is that the two areas around the contact will end up both thinly galvanised.
Thank you for this most informative post.
I have just used foil under my roof tiles, with wood cladding under the eaves
I have a nice high ceiling and a cool room
the foil is the more expensive type, made by the Chang brand (elephant stamped!) as it is not worth using cheaper types...you get what you pay for here
I have reported your post
As opposed to the "first world" where you get less?Originally Posted by DrAndy
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