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  1. #1
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    EPS panels, Rhino wall, Fiber cement board, etc

    Hi all!

    I'm doing the research (reading & watching lots of YT vids) for a future construction project, namely apartments for rent OR apartments w/ house attached (mixed use building). There's land already.

    I saw the materials like EPS panels, rhino wall, fiber cement board (Hardieflex), etc.

    Also, the Q-con blocks that I've seen mentioned here, are they the AAC - autoclaved aerated concrete?

    Anyone who has experience using any of the above-mentioned materials? For walls, slab, ceiling, etc? Pros & cons?

    I'm still partial to the good ol' method of using CHB and cement slab, but I'm open to new ideas.

    Thanks in advance. Salamat!

  2. #2
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    Be careful working with cement fibre board Katie

    This is moi randomly cutting holes in the double cement board panels in my bathroom floor without any PPE to try and find the old bath drain pipe that had been boarded up (second attempt was successful).

    EPS panels, Rhino wall, Fiber cement board, etc-img_20230324_041028-jpg

    I had assumed that the boards were too young to be any risk from asbestos.

    The boards had been laid upside down so the warning message was on the underside when I cut it open to reveal the message '..ource of Respi..'

    EPS panels, Rhino wall, Fiber cement board, etc-img_20230324_041642-jpg

    i.e. Source of Respiratory Hazard

    It turns out that even though my assumption was correct, even modern silicon fibre board is dangerous and can cause silicosis if the dust gets in your lungs

  3. #3
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    ^thanks, looper. That looks nasty - the respiratory hazard stuff.

    I think asbestos isn't used in newer builds anymode (here in PH) but they're still present in older commercial/ industrial buildings.

    The newer building in my workplace - the indoor wall partitions were made of cement boards but the outside walls were made with CHB. I've also discovered that at the mall near my mom's place, cement boards were also used for the shop/ wall partitions. That mall was built around 1999 & opened in 2000. I've known about cement boards but I didn't know the generic name. I knew the brand name, which is Hardieflex. I think here in PH, they're more known as Hardieflex; kinda like Xerox, Kodak, Colgate, etc.

    I (we) have to decide which to use for indoor wall partitions (cement board or CHB) since as I understand it, the weight will matter in terms of the calculation for the posts/ columns, as it will be a 2-storey building.

    Disclaimer: I'm not an engineer or architect, so I'm slowly learning abt these things. I already have an idea of what's to be built and have drawn them on paper (Version 1, 2, 3, etc). We'll have to hire an architect, struct engr, etc to do the build plans. I'll do the legwork with regards to obtaining the build permit, occupancy permit, etc.

    As to the build itself, I (we) will be hiring a contractor to do it. Here, the contractor can either do: labor + materials (package deal) or labor only. We're somewhat partial to the labor-only deal, so that we know the quality & quantity of materials (and won't be short-changed by the contractor). As such, we'll be buying the materials based on the bill of quantities provided by the contractor or engr. I've already started canvassing/ window shopping at hardware stores.

    I won't be able to supervise daily (which would be ideal) but will probably visit the site once or twice a week. The build won't happen this year but maybe next year (depends on some factors).

    Re: AAC, I've learned that there's a source/ company of AAC blocks somewhat near my site. However, I also have to consider the cost. AAC blocks are ~10x the price of CHB.

    Fortunately, there are many YT content creators who are licensed engineers, architects, contractors, foremen, etc. They're Filipinos, so they're used to the conditions in the construction industry here - which helps. Some of them (the bigger channels with 100k or 200k+ subscribers) also have English subtitles for their vids. (useful for those who have foreign spouse/ partner & plan to build a house or apartments in PH).

    ++++++

    Anyway, these are just random thoughts. If you guys have any advice/ knowledge/ wisdom to impart, either re: EPS panels, Rhino walls, fiber cement boards or about the general construction process, I'll be all ears (or eyes). TIA.

  4. #4
    Thailand Expat helge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Looper View Post
    double cement board panels in my bathroom floor
    On a bathroom floor ???

    Never seen or heard about such being used for that.

    Condolences

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by katie23 View Post
    Also, the Q-con blocks that I've seen mentioned here, are they the AAC - autoclaved aerated concrete?
    Yes, "Q-CON" is just one brand of AAC.

    The relative costs of AAC compared to other materials doubtless vary from country to country. Locally to me in rural Thailand, which is not a wealthy area, I can see that more and nore house builds have opted for AAC over the past three years. Although the blocks might cost more per square metre of wall they have several advantages over the cinder blocks and red bricks that used to be favourite. The first is thermal insulation, I rented a small brick house before building my own home and that was like a pizza oven, the walls stayed hot into the evenings as the aircon struggled. My house now doesn't get so hot and the aircons don't have to work so hard. There are other pluses for AAC: it is easy to work and speedy to build, it has soundproofing qualities, it is fireproof and can be loadbearing - you'd need to check your building regs.

  6. #6
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    ^thanks for the feedback, Shutree. Yeah, I've watched about the great properties or AAC (or Q-con). The factors which would make me use Q-con instead of CHB would be availability of supply and price. AFAIK, only few stores sell it and it's more exp. Accdg to this vlog, one can buy a CHB block at P15 per pc, while AAC = P180 per pc.

    I've been watching several vids of this Engr. He's now based on Dubai & employed in a firm which builds high rises. Prior to that, he was a practicing civil engr in PH. I've been watching his vids (and taking notes), as well as the channel of "Architect Ed".


    (there are English subtitles, if anyone's interested)

    In my subdivision (mooban) now, there are maybe 4 or 5 apartment buildings (2 or 3 storey) being built. They're at various stages of construction. All of them use CHB, from what I've seen. Each apartment is usually small, ranging in 4*5 m, 4*6 m, 3.5*6 m, 3.5*7 m, 3.5*8 m, etc. They're usually occupied by couples or work-mates (ppl working for the same company). They're similar in size to typical condo units in Manila (studio type), which measures 4*6m.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by katie23 View Post
    All of them use CHB
    Cheapest and easiest to build with but not the best for insulating.
    Polly ok for rental units if you setup so very little direct sunlight. For example 2 meter eves and foliage.

  8. #8
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    Katie, from what i gather you are trying to decide between dry lined walls, i.e. metal frame and cement board and AAC. As Shu mentioned AAC will reduce thermal transfer and noise.

    If your end game is simply to gain a rental income and quick ROI (return on investment) and there is a ready customer supply that is indifferent to the choice you are making then go with the cheapest - the difference in weight should not make much difference in the size of support beams you will require. The roof material will likely be more a factor than your internal walls.

  9. #9
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    Thanks @norton & @mike for the inputs.

    @norton - the land is inside a mooban and the frontage faces east. As of now, I want the building to face east so that all apartments get the morning sun. Also, most ppl there (the target clients) do their laundry by hand. So the balcony/ hallway usually serves as a place for drying clothes The morning sun will be good for their laundry.

    @mike - yes, there will be a ready customer supply (or I'm fairly confident abt it). The land is in a good location. It's inside a mooban but the gate of the mooban is fairly close to the highway (5 to 10 min walk).

    And yes, we are concerned about ROI too. It won't be a fancy build. It will be functional & good for the proletariat. We haven't decided on the material for the roof yet. It will be similar to your wife's "looms". If you remember, I was interested in that build. A pity that you didn't show pics of the "finished product" but I understand your need for privacy.

    The project may be similar to this vid. Instead of commercial space on the ground floor, it will be apartments/ flats too; total of 4 flats. The flats in the vid measure 5*6m each; mine may be 4*6m or 4*7m (it depends). The position of the toilet may be changed too (to behind the kitchen sink), but you'll get the general idea.

    I could twist the building (90 degrees) and make it oriented sideways so that I can build 6 units (not 4). The lot/ land has a measurement of 10*18m (10 m frontage).

    The floor plan is at ~6:00.


  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by katie23 View Post
    It will be similar to your wife's "looms". If you remember, I was interested in that build.
    Yes, she's built another 2 blocks of 4 on land she has and i think that will be it now, she's got enough income to retire and keep me fed and watered

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by katie23 View Post
    Anyone who has experience using any of the above-mentioned materials? For walls, slab, ceiling, etc?
    Locally we have is gypsum board, which might or might not be the same as Hardieflex, at least similar, which is used in most residential homes as ceiling material. I haven't seen it used to make dry walls locally. I think it is more useful in commercial buildings where it might be necessary to move internal walls during the lifetime of the building. In my area it is mainly red brick for internal walls. I used Q-CON for the bedroom for the thermal and sound insulation. Also my internal walls are small, it's a small house, so the additional cost was small.
    We have a lot of termites here and they love wood. From what I have seen of drywall construction, the board is mounted on wooden frames and I'd expect the termites to get into those. I had a drywall extension on my last house in UK and it was fine there. Here, where they don't usually install a damp-proof course, I wouldn't risk it.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by katie23 View Post
    I could twist the building (90 degrees) and make it oriented sideways so that I can build 6 units
    MM knows about this business. It is a business so I'd definitely go for 6 units and no need to use the most expensive materials. The extra outlay will be small per extra unit and the income will be 50% more.
    Turning it sideways means either the front or the back will face south, which should be okay for their laundry.

  13. #13
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    ^^ they have cement board in thailand sold under the brand name smart board

  14. #14
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    @shutree - I had to read/ watch about gypsum board, since I didn't know about it. The vid said that it's commonly used in malls, restos & hotels. Now I'm not sure whether the boards used in the newer building of my workplace were gypsum or fiber cement boards.

    From what I've learned, the gypsum or cement boards that are used as wall partitions (here in PH) are mounted on aluminum frames, not wood. I'm also not too sure abt the supply of gypsum boards, since I don't see them advertised often in stores. Whereas for Hardieflex (cement boards), a lot of stores sell them.

    Re: flipping the building 90 degrees, yes the idea has been discussed and we're still 50-50 abt it. Another idea that's been brought up is to flip the building 90 degrees (make it face north), then make a 2-storey townhouse attached to the flats. It will somewhat be like 6 flats but will contain only 5 units/ doors. The townhouse will be residential - either used by me or could be rented out too. I've made many drawings on paper and there's no final decision yet.

    Another impt factor to consider is the budget. The cost of materials has increased a lot since covid. It now costs around P22k per square meter (minimum) to build, accdg to my sources. That's if the structure follows the standards. If you don't follow standards, then you can build it for cheaper. Since the land is in a mooban, I'd need a build permit and for that, the structure must follow standards. Also, my structure will be 2-storey and I want to follow standards. I've seen builds of 1-storey flats for rent on YT and some didn't seem to follow standards., but that's their choice.

    There are people who build houses (here in PH) without build permits, esp if they're in the mountains/ far flung areas or if on family land. I'm pretty sure that happens in Thailand too - I recall the member Wasp and the various issues about his wife's house, which was built on family land.

    So many things to consider. I'm literally taking notes. I now have a notebook dedicated to construction stuff. I take notes when I watch the YT vids because for sure, I'll forget the tiny details by the time of the build. I'm learning how to compute for the number of CHB, rebar, etc. I'm pretty sure the contractor will give me numbers for those things, but I'd like to be able to double check his calculations before I buy the stuff.

    Keep the opinions/ inputs coming. TIA.
    Last edited by katie23; 06-07-2023 at 05:30 PM.

  15. #15
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    I kept thinking yesterday about Shutree's comment to turn the building sideways and build 6 flats instead of 4. What I did differently was to draw (on paper) the building with respect to the land. It made things clearer. Previously, I just drew the building without seeing its size on the land. I accounted for 1m width of stairs on the left side of the building (leading to the upper floor units). I'll still have some parking space at the front of the lot (for small cars) and small space (for motorbikes/ bikes). If the building faces north, it will still get sunshine since the adjacent lot is still unoccupied, and won't be occupied anytime soon.

    I did the maths. If it's 4 units, it'll cost around P2 M (~36,400 usd), if it's 6 units, around P3 M (~54,550 usd). I also have to spend on fencing of the land (probably CHB on the bottom half and iron grills on the top half). I will decrease the size of the flats; each flat will be 4*5 m (20 sqm). It will still be rentable at that size (20 sqm is a common sized flat. PH has a large population & ppl are used to small living spaces.)

    The 3rd column will be a 2-storey townhouse (for me) instead of 2 flats. It will be 4*6 m per floor. At the moment, I'm renting a flat near my workplace. My land is in a different town and the commute takes ~1 hr (on a good day). The amount that I pay for rent will instead go to transportation expenses, which I'm OK with. (I used to commute for 2 yrs prior to getting a flat near my office). To account for the possible lack in budget, I can get a loan from the govt housing office. I've done the maths and if all units are occupied, the income will be enough to pay the loan+interest (fixed rate loan, 5 years or 10 years to pay, with monthly installments).

    As for materials to be used, for now I'm partial to using CHB for outer walls. For inner walls (bedrooms), I'll use fiber cement board (Hardieflex). For the walls of the toilets, I'll still use CHB.

    Floor area for the flats will be [(4*5)*4] = 80 sqm, for the townhouse, [(4*6)*2] = 48 sqm. Grand total = 128 sqm. It won't be a palace but it will be functional. Plus the house & land will be in my name and I won't need to pay rent. I'm writing the numbers, in case some ppl like seeing them. My partner in this endeavour is my mom, so there will be some discussions & number crunching.

    I remembered Shutree's Taiwanese friend who was brave enough to get a bank loan to develop a building into rental spaces.

    I'm writing my thoughts for now, just in case I change my mind again!

    Thanks for the insights & inputs.
    Last edited by katie23; 07-07-2023 at 12:54 PM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by katie23 View Post
    I've done the maths and if all units are occupied, the income will be enough to pay the loan+interest (fixed rate loan, 5 years or 10 years to pay, with monthly installments).
    You won't get 100% over the loan period so factor in approx 8% vacancy in your income.

  17. #17
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    ^Yes, thank you, Mr Norts. If the income from the apartments is not enough to pay the monthly amortization for the loan, I can supplement it with my salary. I just have to tighten my belt or have additional streams of income, etc.

    I've done the maths, since the interest rates are stated in the govt housing website. If it's a 10-year loan, the monthly payments are smaller but the overall interest alone is almost double the amount and alnost reaches the original loan amount (principal). I think I'll opt for a 5-year loan.

    I have another small property that I could sell to partially finance my build, but I'm reluctant to sell it (it's idle at the mo). Land prices continue to increase, so if I sell it in 2, 5 or 10 years, its value would be even higher. I'd rather take a loan than sell the land. Is that wise? I dunno, but that's my position for now.

    The build or loan won't happen this year but probably will occur next year. So now I'm planning, drawing, watching vids on construction, etc.

    ++++++
    The PH is a small country and there are so many Filipinos (100+ M and counting), so land prices are constantly increasing. Twenty years ago, the cut of land being sold in subdivisions (moobans) for the middle class was 100 to 150 sqm. Recently, I've seen on vids/ pics and have visited some low-cost housing projects, the cut of the land is ~35 sqm and the row house (attached housing units) has a footprint of 20 or 24 sqm (4*5 or 4*6). These are usually 2-storey townhouses, so total floor area would be 40 or 48 sqm.

    I've seen (from pics of a colleague - he visited the site) low cost housing units which are 2-storey, 3*5 m per storey = even smaller!

    These low cost housing units can be bought via cash basis (seldom happens), bank loan or govt housing loan. The terms of the loan deoends on the age of the loan applicant (10, 15, 20, 25, 30), similar to home mortgages I guess.

    That's why for ordinary rentals for starting couples, families or work-mates, a 20 sqm (4*5m) flat is sufficient.

  18. #18
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    Here's an example of a low-cost housing row house (2-storey townhouse). The ground floor is 4*6 or 4*7, I think. The vlogger and his mates installed a tubular style roof/ floor for the upper floor. (2nd floor for Americans, 1st floor for Brits & Europeans - so confusing! That's why I just say ground or upper floor.) The flooring is made of tubes + plywood. The vlogger also showed the outside/ exterior - how the rowhouses look like. I think for these type of housing units, the owner gets the unit as bare and it's up to them to make improvements (kitchen cabinets, upper floor, rooms upstairs, etc).

    Total cost for the project was ~P48,000 or ~873 usd (P55: 1 usd). I don't know if it included the cost of the stairs, since they also made the stairs in a previous vid. Just view it faster (1.25x or 1.5 speed), since he talked in Tagalog. (magkano = how much)



    I know this is vastly different from the palatial houses found in this forum, but hooray for diversity.

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    Quote Originally Posted by katie23 View Post
    If it's 4 units, it'll cost around P2 M (~36,400 usd), if it's 6 units, around P3 M (~54,550 usd).
    Builders usually quote by the square metre because it is easy for them to do. However, there are quite a few costs that shouldn't go up 50% for the extra units, such as boundary wall, water and electricity connection and sewage out. The whole project cost for 6 units should be a little cheaper, per unit, than building 4 units.

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    Quote Originally Posted by katie23 View Post
    I know this is vastly different from the palatial houses found in this forum, but hooray for diversity.
    For my build, we were somewhat constrained by what the local builders knew how to do. I wouldn't trust an Isan village team with anything too innovative.

  21. #21
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    ^the contractor/ foreman that I'll probably hire is an experienced one - he's maybe 60+ years old and has lots of building experience. I've met him and he knows how to do/ use fiber cement boards. Nothing too innovative. Since my mom is my partner here, she & I will have to agree on things and usually I let her win. Lol.

    I met this contractor when he went to mom's house to talk about renovating/ subdividing the house and make some of the space into apartments. (In the end, my mom chose not to do the renovation). This builder is a friend of one of our neighbours and he was the one who built/constructed her 5-unit apartment building (3 units of 2-storey townhouse and 2 units of flats). I will consult/ canvass with other contractors but I'm partial to him. Also, my mom knows where he lives, so he can't run away from us. Lol.

    Re: making of 2 additional units, yeah I know that the cost won't be that much, I just rounded off the figures.

    If it's 4 units of (4*6) = 96 sqm, 96 * P20,000 per sqm = P1.92 M. If it's 4 units of (4*5m) = 80 sqm + [2*(4*6m)] for townhouse] = 128 sqm. 128 sqm * P20,000 per sqm = P2.56 M. So it's P1.92 M vs. P2.56M.

    If it's P22k per sqm, it will be P2.11 M vs P2.82 M, which was how I came up with the 2M vs 3M price. I'll set a budget of ~P3 M since one usually goes over the budget during house builds.

    So if I compute the cost to build each unit (at P20k/ sqm), 2M for 4 vs 2.6M for 6: if I build 4 units, each will cost P500k, while if I build 6 units, each will cost P433K. Savings of ~P67k/ unit.

    Hmm. Kinda like it's cheaper to buy a 6-pack of beer than to buy 4 cans individually (per unit cost).

    And yes, I know better now about pricing. Contractors/ builders just give a quote per sqm so that it's easier for the client to estimate the budget, and increase/ decrease the size of the house based on their available moolah.

    This guy, Ingeniero TV (ingeniero = engineer in Tagalog & Spanish) gives a detailed account of how the cost of a build is calculated. He made a structural plan and computed for the cost of each stage of the build. That house (in the vid) cost ~P1.6 M (~29k usd) to build at 2022 prices - when the vid was uploaded. It's around P21k/ sqm, house is 77 sqm. Factor in 5-10% inflation per year. (His computations are in my notebook!)

    Vid has English subtitles, in case anyone is interested. (magkano = how much)



    Accdg to another architect-vlogger, at 2023 prices it now costs P20 to P30k per sqm for rough finish, P31 to P40k for semi-elegant and P41k+++ for elegant finish.

    The Aussie style house build in the other thread is elegant finish. For the price of their kitchen alone, I can prolly build 1 unit of a very basic apartment.
    Last edited by katie23; 08-07-2023 at 09:01 PM.

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    Roof colour: which roof colour is best? I'm choosing among red, green and off-white (pre-painted sheets).

    I've heard/ read you guys say that a light-colour roof will be cooler for the entire house/ structure. But if I choose off-white, will it look dirty in time? How about maintenance?

    It will be a gable type roof (triangular), the material GI corrugated sheets (for budget reasons). There will be steel framing/ trusses (I don't know the right term for them).

    If the roof is red, the exterior walls will be cream/ beige (similar to stumpy's palatial house, lol). If the roof is green, the building will be light green. If the roof is off-white, the building will be off-white/ cream/ ecru (or similar colour).

    The interior walls will be off-white/ ecru since the spaces will be small. Each flat will be 20 sqm (4*5) in size.

    My clients/ tenants will most likely not have A/C but will have (electric) fans.

    *******
    Re: the size of the building, we've agreed to build 6 units and orient the building sideways (facing north). Mom & I both agreed that we want to maximize the use of the land. Land prices are so high now (here in PH). Probably because the Chinese are getting some land (I don't know the specifics but it happens at high levels - but that's another matter! ).

    Re: sizes of flats/ apartments here in PH. I thought that 20 sqm is already small for a flat. I saw on YT that now, ppl here in PH have built flats measuring 15 sqm (5*3) and even 12 sqm (3*4)! 12 sqm is smaller than the size of S. Landreth's bathrooms! (in his hotel rooms)

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    Guest Member S Landreth's Avatar
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    Kate, we are both prone to Hurricane damage.

    Avoid gable end construction and IF you can afford it, use metal sheeting.

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    ^hi mr landreth, welcome to my humble thread.

    What is metal sheeting? Are they the same as GI (galvanised iron) corrugated sheets?

    And why not gable roof? (I don't know, so I'm asking) I'm choosing between gable and shed type. For now, I prefer the gable bcos from the street, the side of the building will be visible (not the front of building). I just think the gable looks nicer than shed type. I think shed type is the cheapest? Or is the hip roof (the one with 4 corners/ sides) better for hurricanes?

    The land is 10*17, 10*17. 5 or 10*18 (I have to check). The frontage is 10 m, facing east.

    The building will be 5*12m, 2-storey. Each flat will be 5*4. So from the road, only the side of the building will be seen. Building front will be facing north.

    I'll try to upload my pics of my paper drawings later. They're drawn to scale - I used a ruler. Heh.

    TIA for any comments/ inputs.
    Last edited by katie23; 10-07-2023 at 07:27 AM.

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    Guest Member S Landreth's Avatar
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    Kate, you have sustained hurricane winds pounding on your roof. Do you want those winds to hit a flat surface (gabled ends) OR a roof with hip ends which has a slope for the winds to pass over?

    There are a variety of metal roofing materials. You want long sheets. Makes it more difficult for hurricane winds to peel off (if those sheets are properly secured).

    By the way, it seems you are working with a contractor you trust. Ask him. He’ll know best or contact a roofing contractor and ask them which type of roof is best for hurricane winds.
    Keep your friends close and your enemies closer.

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