Thread: Hua Hin build(3)

good info Ratchaburi, I think I have seem a pool done on CTH with this.was it you?

its certainly an other option to keep in mind.

Originally Posted by splitlid

digging a hole slightly bigger than the pool means there will be less chance of soil movement after the pool has been completed..

...but your water table is less depth than your pool depth? Be sure to fill that pool fast before it pops out of the ground.

Originally Posted by splitlid

good info Ratchaburi, I think I have seem a pool done on CTH with this.was it you?

its certainly an other option to keep in mind.

Not me

This is what I do

Originally Posted by ltnt

^Good stuff. How much$$$$$!!!!! Can get in Thailand?

If you need your million(s) to spare for something else than a swimming pool you can make the pool as I had done. In Thailand so easy...
https://teakdoor.com/construction-in-...d-so-easy.html

https://teakdoor.com/construction-in-...ml#post2911063 (Pool construction costs (Laos))

^Still in operation Klondyke? Cheap is right but it appears to work.

splitlid

I like this work


I have see a lot of building around me & they 4-5mm roll of wire mesh.

But I like the way you have used the Reo bar & when I go to build I will come back & look at your Thread & uses the information in My house.

Great building mate

Originally Posted by ltnt

^Still in operation Klondyke? Cheap is right but it appears to work.

The two last photos in my thread https://teakdoor.com/construction-in-...ml#post2930873
(taken on New Year) show it OK after 8 years in operation (for my daily 1 km swimming). It had survived quite powerful earthquake in the North few months ago when the pool water was running with a 10cm wave over the overflow edge. Whilst the concrete walkway had got few cracks.

And this all with my minimum daily care (after my working time) and minimum maintenance money - and with my troublesome raw water.

But surely luxurious pools with tons of iron underneath and with a generous monthly fee for caretakers will also be in operation not only for 8 years but perhaps 100?

I have yet to meet a Thai who like to have a swimming pool when no falang in the family. Recently I have read that a fresh excavation for a swimming pool has been backfilled again by the falang owner after persuasion of his Thai family.

Perhaps your wife does not want more diamond rings, so better to sink the millions in the iron?

Splitlid, I am a Civil Engineer and it is obvious to me that you know what you are doing. I built our pool in exactly the same way that you are. No need to coat the re-bar (what is he on about?) just make sure to have sufficient cover of the re-bar.
We used a 200mm slab (on top of a 50mm blinding layer of lean concrete) with double layer of 12mm grade A re-bar, 200mm centres, staggered. So effectively giving 100mm centres. Cast into the slab was a 6'' waterstop.

Originally Posted by Tassini

need to coat the re-bar

Epoxy or poly coated re-bar is in use universally as anti-rust protection. I've seen the poly coated re-bar used in Bangkok on both the highway overpasses and the new shopping mall near Siam Square, Paragon I believe its called. I have used it in Industrialized applications in the Middle East.

What Klondyke has done works, but 8 years is not the end of the end. Low maintenance and low budget are not necessarily one and the same. One has to wonder just how long that cinder block is going to hold up against the elements?

I think one can have both extensive re-bar and diamonds Klondyke...

The cinder block does not have to stand up against the elements, it will form the rear of the formwork. They will erect the face formwork 150-200mm in front. As they pour the concrete for the pool walls they will backfill behind the blocks. If they backfill before blocks will collapse.

I have worked on many marine projects around the world and have never ever seen coated re-bar being used, some quay walls having 2m diameter piles x 40m long. The marine environment is the most severe for concrete. So long as you have sufficient concrete covering the re-bar there is not a problem. Most marine structures are designed to last a minimum of 50 years. That's not to say it isn't used in some applications, but totally unnecessary to use it in a domestic swimming pool.

I know Klondyke's has built his pool very cheaply and good for him that it seems to be holding up. I noticed in his pool thread that he didn't use a waterstop between his pool base and the walls! The steel he used was also totally inadequate. If he was to sketch up his construction details and submit them to an Enginner no-one on the planet would approve them. Always remember that just because something does not fail and/or collapse it does not mean it is properly engineered.

Originally Posted by Tassini

Splitlid, I am a Civil Engineer and it is obvious to me that you know what you are doing. I built our pool in exactly the same way that you are. No need to coat the re-bar (what is he on about?) just make sure to have sufficient cover of the re-bar.
We used a 200mm slab (on top of a 50mm blinding layer of lean concrete) with double layer of 12mm grade A re-bar, 200mm centres, staggered. So effectively giving 100mm centres. Cast into the slab was a 6'' waterstop.

yes this is how it will be done

Tessini, I have also built in Marine environments using coated re-bar, but as you must also know the concrete used in that environment is also of marine mix design. (BTW we used an Italian contractor for the entire marina for loading LNG Tankers and for our sea water intake for desal. No failures in over 20 years now.) If any sea water enters your concrete and hits exposed re-bar it won't be long before your concrete turns to powder. However, we're not talking a marine environment here.

As well your cinder block will have voids between it and your inner wall as well its surface contact with the outer dirt wall. No doubt about it that over time these voids will allow encroachment into your concrete barrier wall. Without a water/moisture seal or vapor barrier between, it is almost certain to fail at some point. 8 years now for Klondyke, not to bad.

Originally Posted by ltnt

As well your cinder block will have voids between it and your inner wall as well its surface contact with the outer dirt wall. No doubt about it that over time these voids will allow encroachment into your concrete barrier wall. Without a water/moisture seal or vapor barrier between, it is almost certain to fail at some point. 8 years now for Klondyke, not to bad.

Ltnt: so what should happen when some moisture goes thru? Will the pool collapse?

Then I will add up daily few more litter fresh water, it will not cost me in 100 years a fortune you spend for the iron, etc.

Anyway, come and see in another 8 years, if I am still swimming. Otherwise - if I do not - who will care?
(then only few trucks of din will be needed and few mango trees on it)

time for an update and a lot has happened this week.

lintels for the openings are being installed.and the walls are growing

this big machine is to push in the piles, we got in 20 of 28 and the rest couldn't be pushed in so the following day we got the auger in from the electric company and they couldn't drill either so 20 was the magic number. Last pic shows a blinding layer being poured so they have a clean area to work on.

the walls continue. And the roofers have turned up.

these roof guys don't mess about.

with the pool dug and piled we can now continue with the rest of the house.

roofers continue to throw steel up like theres no tomorrow.
some of the internal frames are in, external frames will be aluminium.

roofers nearly done.
remaining beams ready to be poured.

not to be outdone,the pool guys have been busy also, 2 layers of steel for walls, plumbing in, just another layer of steel in the slab and then the water stop to add.

Another big build. Really good stuff.

Good luck with it.

cheers Terry

roof battens still going on, fascia boards turned up today so hopefully will be installed before the end of the week.
blinding concrete laid in remainder of the house and steel work for slabs has begun, pump room slab will be poured later once the pool guys are done.

so the pool floor slab is ready for pouring.
double steel in slab and walls, water seal added between slab and walls.

so pool slab has now been poured. The water stop is visible as being half in slab the other half will be in the walls.

remaining house slabs also poured and walls started.