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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by thailazer View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Gerbil View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Bettyboo View Post
    ^ I have read similar, but me FIL says otherwise. Not sure what's going on really... In NN the hard stuff (rock?) is only 1 metre down, so they will dig through the extra 0.5 metre of soil that they've just laid and put in the foundations. He says that can be done straight away, and we'll likely start very soon.

    I'm not sure about this, so I would like other folks' thoughts/experiences.
    Foundations will be ok.

    But outside concrete slabs poured on top of the landfill and tiling on top will crack after a few years as the land below the slabs subsides - Unless the slabs are poured very thick and a lot of rebar is used.
    Our first floor is on grade and the 1 meter of fill had two rainy seasons on it. After the footings and beams were in, we flooded the first floor three times with a junk pump for about four hours. First time was just on dirt, second time was with sand leveled. Both times you could see slumping in places. Added more sand and the third time it stayed level. Pouring on lots of water is a good way to get the ground to settle before pouring a slab.
    Sure, but in most cases it will take up to 25 years to settle completely. It's not unusual for ground to settle over 30cm in 10 years. It's like this in Europe so I bet it's the same here.

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bettyboo
    Any thoughts on the plan?

    A certain hotel in Long Kesh NI








    Good luck mate

  3. #103
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    Nige, you bastard!

    "Her Majesty's Prison Maze (known colloquially as Maze Prison, The Maze, The H Blocks or Long Kesh) was a prison in Northern Ireland that was used to house paramilitary prisoners during the Troubles from mid-1971 to mid-2000."
    HM Prison Maze - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
    Cycling should be banned!!!

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by Necron99
    bed 3
    Quote Originally Posted by Bettyboo
    Bedroom 2
    Best go back and read that again betty , necron has a very good point .

  5. #105
    Molecular Mixup
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    Looks nice
    very minor point , but
    the master bedroom is 4.85
    the master washroom 2.20
    = 7.05
    but should it not add up to 7 ?


    A good tool is SketchUp , you can draw the house up, to exact scale and then pan around inside and out in 3D and have a good look .
    The free version now called Make, I think its the same as the pro , but just for personal use.
    SketchUp | 3D for Everyone

    plenty of videos showing how to use it , only takes a few hours to get the basics.
    Really advanced and easy to use

  6. #106
    Excitable Boy
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    Having built a few houses here, I agree with the sentiment that it's WAY better to go beyond your budget a bit than to try to beat the contractor down on price- there is a level of crap as far as materials go that you just wouldn't believe, and- as you're not always there- you might not find out about a huge problem for a year or two before it rears its ugly head (and it will)- I'm a big advocate of being there everyday if possible to keep an eye on things.

    Electric lines are a very popular thing to screw up- take detailed pics of everything while it's still exposed and post them here- someone will spot impending disasters. They'll do stupid things like using only electrical tape at connection points- that might last a year before it starts unraveling and then the short-circuits will begin.
    There he goes. One of God's own prototypes. A high-powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production. Too weird to live, and too rare to die.
    HST

  7. #107
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    lookin good BB....

    Lots of seemingly good advice and observations.......nuff to turn ya grey hugh?

    So here is some more..like you need it?.....lol

    Don't know if the kitchen is still outside but remember it does rain here and the wind she doth blow on your burners plus dirt flies etc..
    ...also maybe consider a more open plan direct access to eating area with maybe a breakfast bar or somesuch separating? I guess it's about ergonomics of actually living in the home.
    That software for walk though viewing looks like it might be good!

    Oh and mind you put two way light switches ( on or off from either entrance ) at each entry of the double entry bathroom.... if you can find anyone who knows how...lol

  8. #108
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    More good advice ...lol

    -consider chucking in coax along side power outlets at potential TV locations
    - convenient power outlets for water heaters, air and appliances.
    - Range hood power and exhaust ducting?

    Our house is small and our kitchen dining and lounging/tv area is all one...
    most ladies like to watch TV while cooking..yes

    AND most visitors tend to congregate in kitchen area in any house world wide..in Thailand they sit on the floor and eat and talk while the food is preparing..yes?

    have fun...don't forget a power outlet for your beer fridge in the workshop ...

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by crepitas View Post
    More good advice ...lol

    -consider chucking in coax along side power outlets at potential TV locations
    - convenient power outlets for water heaters, air and appliances.
    - Range hood power and exhaust ducting?

    Our house is small and our kitchen dining and lounging/tv area is all one...
    most ladies like to watch TV while cooking..yes

    AND most visitors tend to congregate in kitchen area in any house world wide..in Thailand they sit on the floor and eat and talk while the food is preparing..yes?

    have fun...don't forget a power outlet for your beer fridge in the workshop ...

    oh..anuvva fing...provide electric,water supply and drainage for clothes washer....think about drying clothes area on frame or whatever for all those frickin rainy days......incorporated a laundry room as part of our downstairs bathroom ....

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by FailSafe View Post
    Having built a few houses here, I agree with the sentiment that it's WAY better to go beyond your budget a bit than to try to beat the contractor down on price- there is a level of crap as far as materials go that you just wouldn't believe, and- as you're not always there- you might not find out about a huge problem for a year or two before it rears its ugly head (and it will)- I'm a big advocate of being there everyday if possible to keep an eye on things.

    Electric lines are a very popular thing to screw up- take detailed pics of everything while it's still exposed and post them here- someone will spot impending disasters. They'll do stupid things like using only electrical tape at connection points- that might last a year before it starts unraveling and then the short-circuits will begin.
    Sort of disagree with your electrical tape paranoia ..it IS electrical tape after all?
    A reasonable 60-90 degree twist joint with the barbs cut off and laid down covered with a a good few layers of good quality electrical tape is as secure as a wire nut, crimp or screw connector methinks....self amalgamating rubber tape covered in plastic tape would be preferable of course...it is about the application expertise same same concrete, carpentry et al....

  11. #111
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    Guy round the corner is building a 5 mill teak house.
    Lots of lovely woodwork, his son in law is local PEA manager, good three core wire.
    And then this, all over the place.



    It just doesn't cost that much more to do proper wire runs, in conduit with connector boxes.

  12. #112
    Excitable Boy
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    Quote Originally Posted by crepitas View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by FailSafe View Post
    Having built a few houses here, I agree with the sentiment that it's WAY better to go beyond your budget a bit than to try to beat the contractor down on price- there is a level of crap as far as materials go that you just wouldn't believe, and- as you're not always there- you might not find out about a huge problem for a year or two before it rears its ugly head (and it will)- I'm a big advocate of being there everyday if possible to keep an eye on things.

    Electric lines are a very popular thing to screw up- take detailed pics of everything while it's still exposed and post them here- someone will spot impending disasters. They'll do stupid things like using only electrical tape at connection points- that might last a year before it starts unraveling and then the short-circuits will begin.
    Sort of disagree with your electrical tape paranoia ..it IS electrical tape after all?
    A reasonable 60-90 degree twist joint with the barbs cut off and laid down covered with a a good few layers of good quality electrical tape is as secure as a wire nut, crimp or screw connector methinks....self amalgamating rubber tape covered in plastic tape would be preferable of course...it is about the application expertise same same concrete, carpentry et al....

    Speaking from experience here- it's fine on its own in the short term, but after a rainy season or two the weather affects it and it loses its tackiness and unravels- connections need to be capped at a minimum- tape on its own isn't nearly as secure.

  13. #113
    Excitable Boy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Necron99 View Post
    Guy round the corner is building a 5 mill teak house.
    Lots of lovely woodwork, his son in law is local PEA manager, good three core wire.
    And then this, all over the place.



    It just doesn't cost that much more to do proper wire runs, in conduit with connector boxes.
    Perfect example of the wrong way to do it.

  14. #114
    On a walkabout Loy Toy's Avatar
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    Good luck with the build Betty.

    700,000K seems quite low but if you get out of it for a million it's money well spent.

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by FailSafe View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Necron99 View Post
    Guy round the corner is building a 5 mill teak house.
    Lots of lovely woodwork, his son in law is local PEA manager, good three core wire.
    And then this, all over the place.



    It just doesn't cost that much more to do proper wire runs, in conduit with connector boxes.
    Perfect example of the wrong way to do it.
    Having zero building experience I could never build a house here simply as I wouldn't be able to trust the workmanship, see any faults as they're doing it, never mind be than able to tell them why they're doing it wrong and how it should be done. I could never have any thing built for me in Thailand.

    That however, would certainly have me asking questions.

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Necron99
    Guy round the corner is building a 5 mill teak house.
    To be fair, he's only building a 1.5 million teak house but getting overcharged 3.5 million.

  17. #117
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    ^ 5555

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by Noosa
    Having zero building experience I could never build a house here simply as I wouldn't be able to trust the workmanship, see any faults as they're doing it, never mind be than able to tell them why they're doing it wrong and how it should be done. I could never have any thing built for me in Thailand.
    I'm leaving all the wiring "exposed," in conduit, except for the wall penetrations. As well all the plumbing will also be "exposed," exterior. this will ease my mind when trying to trouble shoot both problems. Not pretty, but functional.

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by ltnt View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Noosa
    Having zero building experience I could never build a house here simply as I wouldn't be able to trust the workmanship, see any faults as they're doing it, never mind be than able to tell them why they're doing it wrong and how it should be done. I could never have any thing built for me in Thailand.
    I'm leaving all the wiring "exposed," in conduit, except for the wall penetrations. As well all the plumbing will also be "exposed," exterior. this will ease my mind when trying to trouble shoot both problems. Not pretty, but functional.
    May I ask one question, if I may be so rude: what do you expect to go wrong with the wiring? I can understand plumbing and leaks but wiring?

  20. #120
    Excitable Boy
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    Quote Originally Posted by ltnt View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Noosa
    Having zero building experience I could never build a house here simply as I wouldn't be able to trust the workmanship, see any faults as they're doing it, never mind be than able to tell them why they're doing it wrong and how it should be done. I could never have any thing built for me in Thailand.
    I'm leaving all the wiring "exposed," in conduit, except for the wall penetrations. As well all the plumbing will also be "exposed," exterior. this will ease my mind when trying to trouble shoot both problems. Not pretty, but functional.
    Seriously? I would set up reasonable access to my wires and pipes and keep them out of view before leaving them exposed.

  21. #121
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    ^ agree.
    If you are having double walls, unlike many of the Thai wood builds, leaving your wiring out is just naff.

    Do two harnesses in conduit for each room, an upper and lower basically circling the room.
    Lower for power points, upper for lights and switches. Make sure all connections are in boxes and all runs are direct verticals to the switch or PowerPoint.
    With supervision of the installation you will always know exactly where the wires are. Wire is cheap, conduit is cheap.


    There is a lot of angst and paranoia about wiring in thailand, but at the end of the day, it's just three wires. Two for lights...

    Most issues IMHO only come from the sparky trying to save on 20 baths worth of wire or 2 baht connectors.
    If you tell them and watch, they will do it correctly. But you must watch. If he can save 300 baht on materials by running diagonals and using tape over the whole house, he will.
    Last edited by Necron99; 06-07-2013 at 12:58 PM.

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevefarang
    mechanical joining system
    drilling straight through the gal ......

  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by Koetjeka
    what do you expect to go wrong with the wiring?
    Weather related when hidden, poor connections over time, power surges/overloads, inaccessible when needing to add or make repairs, knowledge of whats where, and lastly I'll get that white plastic cover for it. I've seen several jobs done in this fashion and its a very easy install and cost reduction.

    I'm not concerned with appearances just function.

  24. #124
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    Since you're building a one story house, you could run the main power trunks above the ceiling and then do vertical routes for conduit down to your plugs and switches. Those routes with conduit are then filled in with concrete before the wall rendering.

    Make sure your crew puts in large conduit. On our build, I told them to put in 1 inch conduits for the main trunks and sure enough, they put in 3/4 inch saying it was fine. The 1 inch conduit was right there for them but they went out of their way to get the 3/4 inch. A day later they walked off the job and I was left to pull the kitchen hob wires through the 3/4 inch conduit, cussing those guys at every moment. Make sure they do it your way and make them rework it if not.
    You Make Your Own Luck

  25. #125
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    ^You talking to Boo? I'm building a elevated House. Not part of this discussion other than my take on exposed conduit and plumbing for maintenance sake long term.

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