Got all the concrete posts poured and the first wood up.
The mai daeng posts are vertical. Those buggers are still wet, and super heavy.
Got all the concrete posts poured and the first wood up.
The mai daeng posts are vertical. Those buggers are still wet, and super heavy.
this thread brings back nice memories
I think building a wooden house is a lot of fun; the carpenters are usually excellent and very inventive
Aaah! The scent of newly sawn wood in the air. Sighhh!
yep, over-rides the cesspit fumes
Last night I dreamt there was an earthquake, and the whole thing came tumbling down. The foreman says that is a good omen!
Trust Budda you mean?Originally Posted by wimpy
Did he run around checking the bolts?
Quality issues already, you wait until you are lying under a roof full of tiles/wood/steel on a wet dark stormy night and you hear a few creaks.
Oh the worry, the pain, the joy when you wake up and it's still standing around you ........
Last edited by OhOh; 07-02-2012 at 09:11 PM.
A tray full of GOLD is not worth a moment in time.
last year there was quite a big quake, it even created a tsunami in the pool sending the water over the edgeOriginally Posted by OhOh
but the house had no problems, so that was a relief
Great design, i like the upstairs interior open plan with office idea, nice!
The first upstairs post goes up.
Stopped in at the Hang Chat lumber mill. Like stepping back in time.
Beer thirty. The view from upstairs.
Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like you're going to have a nice, bouncy floor.
3 meter spans on 50cm centers. The joists feel pretty firm, but I suspect the planks will have some give to them. This is one of the reasons I have decided to go with a plywood sub-floor.
What size timbers? 1.5 x 6?Originally Posted by wimpy
The joists are 1.75 x 4. When I walked around the original house, it had a bit of spring to it. This, plus the fact that I didn't like seeing daylight between the planks, led me to opt for a sub-floor underneath the planks. I figure it will also help keep out the large black ants that have a nasty bite.
In post No. 60 the first photo, showing the beam to column connection of only one bolt, have you thought of doubling up to get some redundancy?
Yikes!Originally Posted by wimpy
Here is a joist spacing/sizing matrix which might be useful.
^Table assumes a minimum C16 structural grade timber.
How is that useful?
I assume that table is referring to something like construction grade fir. These timbers are way harder than that stuff. Gone through two circular saw blades already. Every wood house that I have looked at in the area has been built in this fashion. We could certainly go with 6" timbers, which would mean a very expensive trip to the Hang Chat lumber yard, defeating the idea behind this build. I was at the lumber yard yesterday pricing 6" timbers for the roof. Total cost to do the floor joists in 6" would be close to what I paid for the entire house.
make sure it gets treated very well with anti-insect fluidOriginally Posted by wimpy
unless you are going to use very heavy cement tiles, 4" timber (probably as you bought from the old house) are enough - then use the big corrugated sheet tilesOriginally Posted by wimpy
the beam sits on the column, the bolt merely holds it in place. Redundancy will come from the floor planksOriginally Posted by OhOh
Will do on the Shelldrite. I think it will be pretty easy to keep an eye on the insects, as they will have to come up the posts to get to the tasty plywood.
Actually the old house had 6" timber in the roof. Unfortunately, the new house is slightly larger due to the existing foundation and the old timbers are too short. The Puu Yai Baan was just here, and he can "source" us some new 6" timber for the roof at a bargain price.
if you are careful, you can just extend the old timbers (overlap and bolts), so then do not have to buy so much
yes, the termites but not the beetlesOriginally Posted by wimpy
the edges of the ply are most important to protect
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