Helps prevent splitting when they dismantle it. You'll save a lot of wood.Originally Posted by Carnwadrick
Got to be a good buy for that price. Check it out for bugs!
If you reset the floor the gaps will be minimal ( if the joiner tidies the edges) failing that use corking.
I dont know what it is but I got a string of it its like white horse hair and easy to pull off enough strands, twist it and force it between the planks. Its natural so sticks together and doesnt unwind. I got it in a rural village where they used it as stuffing. It was dirt cheep but bits came out eventually, although easy enough to push back.
A friend here used a silicone based filling compound. It was a dark colour and looked ok.
Well gents, today spent some time looking over the house with a flashlight and tapping on timbers. Couldn't find any evidence of termite damage or rot.
So..., I bought myself a house. Managed to talk them down another 10,000 baht. Sold, for 35,000 baht. Will begin dismantling and moving it next week.
A few more detailed photos for your viewing pleasure.
My next door neighbor just bought a couple of these freshly "harvested" mai daeng posts for 500 baht a piece. Then he promptly stuck them in the dirt! Sigh.
Last edited by wimpy; 16-01-2012 at 09:03 PM.
THose who have never lived in a wooden house fear termites the most.
Take a look at a few Queenslanders and you'll pick up some useful hints on protection. Termites cannot eat concrete although they will make "tunnels" along the surface.
They will LOVE to burrow up through any cladding.
Most Aussie houses have an upturned saucer arrangement at the top of the stumps - this is enough to confuse or deter most borers who make it up the stump. You also need to look into the type of wood and the most suitable proofing for it.
I don't like the look of the asbestos roofing though!!!!
He probably likes to soak everything when he's on the job.
Anyhow it sounds a good price to me but living in the south could be different. You certainly need to keep those posts a couple of inches off the slab, it will be easy to get some stump brackets made up.
Good luck.
Last edited by Happy Dave; 16-01-2012 at 10:40 PM.
[quote=wilko;1990639]THose who have never lived in a wooden house fear termites the most.
Take a look at a few Queenslanders and you'll pick up some useful hints on protection. Termites cannot eat concrete although they will make "tunnels" along the surface.
They will LOVE to burrow up through any cladding.
Most Aussie houses have an upturned saucer arrangement at the top of the stumps - this is enough to confuse or deter most borers who make it up the stump. You also need to look into the type of wood and the most suitable proofing for it.
I don't like the look of the asbestos roofing though!!!![/quote
Yep, i have an old timber house in Queensland, bloody termites everywhere, and each stump has one at the top where the floor joists sit. Made of thin galvanised steel to avoid rusting rusting, the dish like design points downward just in case any termites try to 'track' up. this stops the little bastards.
I think I read somewhere that there is a Colorbond distributor in Chiang Mai.
[quote=wimpy;1990676]I think I read somewhere that there is a Colorbond distributor in Chiang Mai.[/quote
OK but too far north for me, i will just have a look around Samui, might find a distrubuter.
robtherich knows what he is talking about. The local woodworkers are telling me to wet it down for two days prior to disassembly. Especially since rather large nails were used to attach the siding. So that is what we're doing. Deconstruction starts on Wednesday. Sourced a local contractor to do the building. Seems like a decent fellow. He and his crew are willing to work by the day rather than a fixed price for the job. This is my preferred method based on several bad experiences in the past.
Here are some drawings I did of what I have in mind for my " budget country cottage".
On the first floor we have a workshop / storage room, and open air kitchen. It will be built from a combination of colorbond metal siding and Shera siding - as will the upstairs attached bath.
The three visible support posts will be 40cm diameter teak. They can be "procured" at a reasonable price. Just have to be sure to install them quickly.
This is the side that will face our teak plantation, fruit trees, rice fields, and the Northern Railway in the distance.
The large covered balcony will be concrete and tiled with terracotta tiles.
Upstairs interior will be an open plan with an office and wet bar. 1/2 and 3/4 height walls will obscure the sleeping area when entering or sitting in the living area or on the balcony. Should still be able to enjoy the view while laying in bed.
More as it develops.
Excellent buy, well done. Good luck with the tear-down, transport and rebuild.
Google sketchup is a great tool.
Last edited by OhOh; 23-01-2012 at 11:52 PM.
Disassembly commenced at 8:00 a.m.
With 5 guys working on it, by the afternoon we had made a serious amount of progress. I was quite pleased, as there was almost no damage to the wood. The workers were very sensitive to treating it properly. The fact that they are being paid by the day, rather than the job, may have played a part.
My little Ford got a serious workout today. That wood is heavy!
The wood at its' new home. As soon as we remove all the nails, it will go into proper covered storage. Construction is scheduled to begin on Monday.
^How many truckloads did you have?
The picture of the pile of wood, is that the total, if not have you a picture of the total amount when it arrived at you new site?
We haven't finished. Today we did about six truckloads including the roof tiles. I figure we will do another two or three tomorrow. Right now it is in several different piles, and I couldn't get it all in one photo. Over the next couple days we will remove all the nails and stack it according to size. I should be able to get a photo that shows it all then.
Thanks, have you factored in the cost of a new truck?
It would be useful to see the amount of wood one could expect from an existing building.
^It's enough wood to make one of these.
Yes,
The form for the first concrete post goes up.
Steelwork for the concrete posts.
The accepted "lap length" of reinforcing bars is 20 - 30 times the diameter of the rebar. Those in the 2nd photo look very short.
Not sure I follow. Are you talking about where the re-bar is attached at the base?
What we are doing is welding the rebar to existing rabbit ears that were attached to wood posts supporting the previous house at this location. I feel confident that our home poured columns will be much stronger than the prefab ones that supported this house for the past 30 years or so.
Yes that is what I am commenting about. You seem to be happy with the "welding" technique so I will accept it as well.
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