I tried one of those programs that you use to make plans, like you have been doing here. I wished I had one and knew how to use it. I got ticked off and sent it to the dump. I am not too good with computers.
Good luck. Keep posting. Looking good.
I tried one of those programs that you use to make plans, like you have been doing here. I wished I had one and knew how to use it. I got ticked off and sent it to the dump. I am not too good with computers.
Good luck. Keep posting. Looking good.
Keep in mind what happens if the wind/breeze doesn't cooperate and the smells/fumes end up going in the cook's face. This is why I would consider forced air movement of some kind.
What you ought to do is go to one of the DIY home places and see if someone won't let you arrange a few cabinets to get a feel for the layout. Better still get some cardboard boxes and make a mock layout.
This is much more functional...just sitting here thinking how can I show you where I think you should put the fridge and bugger me there it is...well done that man..
That final one was based on ceburat's analysis, for which I gave him a greenie.
Ms. B is at work just now but I'll seek her approval in the morning.
I like it very well, myself.
Thanks to all.
Good ideas. This plan fits in with the Thai way of wanting a door in the kitchen.
When can we help plan the master bedroom? Don't forget the mirrored ceiling and the gyno chair.
Well be announcing the contest on that soon. PM me your entries.Originally Posted by Marmite the Dog
If you don't mind me asking BH, what do you actually get for your money when you buy a new house in Thailand? I mean what is included in the sale price and what costs extra - kitchen, toilets, windows, floors, doors etc....
I assume things like standard windows and doors are included, but what if you want something different?
Does the average new house in Thailand include a kitchen or does this vary from development to development?
Everything is included in the house I'm buying except the kitchen. The kitchen is just another room. They do stub in the plumbing for a sink, but that's it. The way our contract is worded they state a separate price for the land and the house. They also include a detailed bill of materials for the house. So, if you eliminate something, you get credit. If you add something they charge, of course.
In our case we've eliminated an interior door, a passthrough from the kitchen to the living room and exchanged one of the Western style toilets for a proper squat toilet (which I much prefer). We get credit for the reduced expense which will pay for quite a few additional electrical outlets that we've added.
So far we've had two consults with the architect who seems very happy to make some changes (interior) and less happy to make exterior changes. I believe this is because they want some uniformity to the exterior look of the moo baan.
The only landscaping that is included is turf all around. All the doors, windows and complete bathrooms are also included.
Thanks for that, I bought an old house so wasn't sure how it happens with new places here.
We met with the cabinetmaker who will build out the kitchen and do a few other built-ins. He comes highly recommended and, based on photos, seems to do good work. He has done a kitchen with a granite counter top. Since that's what we plan that was good news.
Photos of his previous stuff:
Nick - the most annoying thing for me was the water storage tank and pump. The developer knew that the bathroom, located on the second (US, first UK) floor didn't have the power to do fuck all if you wanted a shower. However, rather than put a store tank in the roof and pump the water from the mains, I had to instal a tank in the garden (behind the back of the kitchen) and instal the pump myself. When I asked why, I was told it was illegal to use a machine pump to pump water from the mains directly. I believe my response went something like "why the %$^&^&%$#@@@#$ did you $%%^&&$#@#%%heads build a two-storey house then!"
^Yep, we have one of them too...it's useful though cos if the water gets cut off you've still got a tankful in reserve.
Makes sense.Originally Posted by NickA
It is very difficult to have control over the water pressure in the mains supply if a lot of households starts to suck from the pipe.
Sucking is what a pump does.
That is the proper way of doing it.Originally Posted by William
The main water supply is filling the tank through a level regulator.
The pump does not affect the main supply or your neigbours.
This is the way to go. On the "out" side of the pump you can use a captive air tank to keep the pressure constant without the pump having to cycle all the time. The bigger the captive air tank the less often the pump comes on.Originally Posted by William
My last house had a 3/4 horse power pump and a five gallon captive air tank. It was enough to feed the lawn sprinklers and fill the washing machine.
Ha ha. That has happened to me too.Originally Posted by NickA
Bladdy water bills look like shopping dockets and get lost in the mailbox or nearby.
Work on the foundation. Lots of steel.
The steel beams for the roof framing and bricks have arrived.
Has anybody considered or actually put one of those stainless steel water tanks in the rook space of a 2 storey house?
The stainless stell would soak up heat and warm the water nicely.
I wonder if the "gravity" generated water pressure would be enough to drive the shower unit on the upper floor? I suspect it would be ok on lower floor.
There would be no need for a pump as the tank could be filled from mains pressure (using the term lightly) and a cut off valve would close supply when tank is full.
If that worked there would be no need for a pump and saving of 10,000 baht
Yes, I know someone who did it in Lampang.Originally Posted by Helicopter
He was a builder by trade and even had cavity walls.
You need at least a 6foot drop from tank to shower for it to build up enough pressure to trigger the shower heater.
They poured the foundation either last night or early this morning.
The forms had been removed by this afternoon.
They use a concrete truck for the foundation but mix the concrete for the support posts on site.
Originally Posted by HelicopterI'm on the foruth floor water tanks right above me, on stands, think the drop is about 6ft (or so). It triggers the heater but gotta be careful adding cold water, I got a heater that feeds dual valve shower head and the heater has no real rheostat, or it kills the heater. dont flush the toilet or run anty other water faucet tho. Up here the water is too hot in hot season and too cold in cold season. That's not so bad, a stand to raise the tank another 6ft would be nice.Originally Posted by dirtydog
Go for a pump.
I've got a mains fed tank buried in the garden, but use it only when the mains is off - usually 3 or 4 times a month, for anything from 1 to 6 days depending on how much of the mains pipe has been back-hoed into pieces by the stupid son$^(#^&*% fu#%^U^ bi(*&^%$ working on all the roads around Phuket.
I've also got a deep bore well supply for when both the mains is off and the tank pump has switched off (because the level has dropped too low). The deep bore well supply is very clean and is pumped up into a tank 3 or 4 storeys high which is about 200 meters from the house. By the time it gets to me, the pressure isn't too high - about 2 kg/sq cm - but good enough for the shower. The mains water pressure is much higher.
I used to have a supply from a filthy shallow well but the water was brown and smelly even after the Mazuma filter. Fortunately I got that swapped to the deep bore well supply.
^^^^ Well that answers all my hijacking water tank pressure questions so back on topic please!!!
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)