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  1. #26
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    At the very least I would use mortar filled breeze blocks with rebar connected to the floor and going inside them, then rendered. I would also consider some kind of pond liner, for something that size you maybe able to get HDPE, there are companies in Bangkok doing it, but I don't have their details.

    You are better to overdo it than risk having it crack due to soil movement.

    We've just done a tank, I made the mistake of listening to others who were just guessing. It had to be redone.

    When do you plan to start with the AP system? Do you have any previuos experience with this?

  2. #27
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    When do you plan to start with the AP system? Do you have any previuos experience with this

    Hands on experience - none. I started reading up on AP about two years ago. I have been an organic gardener for about 50 years now. I love gardening. Originally a city boy so when I started I didn't know beans - maybe now I still don.t

    I contacted a man on the internet who lives in Thailand who is IMO an expert. I copied from him when I designed my set up. His name is Steven Bird. His contact information and web site is:

    info[at]goodearthagriculture.org

    goodearthagriculture[at]live.com

    He teaches at: turboenglish[at]hm.com

    If you cannot contact Steve thru any of the above let me know. A trip to his place is well worth it. This guy is the kind of person you like to meet and have for a friend.

    When do I plan to start - already - I read your reply and then cut off the computer because my brother in law arrived with my fish. I ordered 200 mixed but he could only got 80. Supplier running short. Some look to be about 3 inches long already. They breed fast so it should not be a problem. Steve said in about 3 or 4 months I will need 2 or 3 predator fish (male catfish) in order to keep the proper balance of fish in the pond and avoid over crowding.

    I have a hose hooked to my pump that I use to airiate the pond. I plan to water three times a day from the pond. More if necessary. In about two weeks or as soon as I get a good bloom out - water turns a nice green - full of fish food and goodies for the garden, I plan to start planting in the raised beds. The raised beds were filled with coco coir and rice hulls, half and half. The beds drain back to the pond thru 3/4 inch pvc. The filter system.

    Between watering other parts of the garden plus the beds I will have to top up the pond a little each day. However that should keep the oxygen up in the water along with the pump to keep the fish happy. Sort of a balancing act - keep the water rich enough(green) to feed fish and veggies, but clean enough not to fill the fish.

    I live about 15 kilometers outside of Korat going towards Don Quien, Immigration. If you are ever in the area come visit.

    I will post photos of my beautiful garden when it grows - or - photos of my dead plants - whichever.

  3. #28
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    I tried AP on a very small scale a few years back. Problem was I didn't have any chelated iron, so the plants turned yellow. If you need this it can be got from large hydo suppliers in Bangkok.

    There is a farm in Prachinburi selling Tilapia (Pla Nin and Tuptim) that are 99% male Untitled Document

    There is also a forum and free book to download at http://backyardaquaponics.com/

  4. #29
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    Thanks for the links. I'll check them out.

    The purpose of the pond fish water is that nothing else will be needed. Time will tell.

    Back on the subject of Strength of the Wall, I am doing more research on Ferro Cement. I just don't have any hands on experience with this type of work and worry if it will hold up or not.

  5. #30
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    nice looking ponds (once the pics got enlarged)

    the only negative is the awful blue visible plumbing - I am sure you can sort that out

  6. #31
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    We have painted some of the blue pipes brown and with plants around they seem to disappear. Sometimes I have had to use brown tape and some times we are lazy and you are right - I hate blue pipes sticking out everywhere.

    Photos are the result of my trying for a day and a half to upload them. Damm what a labor intensive job. I think DD picked that system on purpose just so he could aggravate posters. When I picked the size for the photos I picked 1024 which is too small. What size should I have picked?

  7. #32
    Crepitus
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    Quote Originally Posted by ralphlsasser View Post
    Thanks Crepitus. So basically you built a concrete wall. I was thinking that would be the only way to hold the pressure. My contractor/village handiman tells me a block wall is enough (a continueus 40cm x 40cm footer with concrete columns on 3m centers with a bond (concrete) beam every 2m in height all the way around my house. column to column would be block. I think doing it his way, I'll have the wall cracking and possibly leaning. What do you think?
    Did you install any PVC to drain the possible excess water? PS- Yes, I'm talking about a retaining wall.
    Think I would go with your gut on that one.... big deep footings a must!...block walls have little lateral strength..lots of good concrete and re-bar would be the way to go..even add buttresses if the wall is over 2m.

    Even if you tell your local guy what you want he may well do what he wants... so sit on his shoulder!.
    When they were building mine they let loads of mud fill the bottom of pole forms and were about to pour in the concrete.... I threw a wobbly!

    Actually no drainage provision ,being on a hillside we also have gradient to left and right of the wall around the house ...probably would have been a good idea to put in a gutter of some sort but lots of rock and building trash in back fill so no water accumulation. Do have buried plastic piping down sides of the house as an aid to drainage during deluge weather.
    Our house is a pole home with a finished floor and rooms under... ...above grade snake crawl space under..no evidence of surface water flowing out from under house.
    Have fun...pissing down here... in the sunny south!!

  8. #33
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    Cold Joints when working with Ferro Cement - Does anyone know of a good method for bonding/sealing them? What about Cold Joints in cement block or poured cement ponds?

  9. #34
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    Nice ponds.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ceburat1 View Post
    That is the same that I had previously heard or at least thought that I heard. Thank you very much Airport2.


    I have built two ponds so far: (1) Koi Pond that is 80 cm deep with cement blocks filled with cement and rendered well. No leak proof in the cement and no rebar. We only get a loss of 4 to 6 cm's of water per day. The pond is 20 feet long. Half is 12 feet wide and the other half is 6 feet wide. It has been in use now for three to four years. It is surrounded with cement patio and covered with sun screen over the area (black sun screen).

    (2) 2011 I got brave and built a pond for topteem 8 foot wide by 20 feet long and 90 cm's deep. I listened to my Thai uncle and built it with rebar in the floor (like house construction). Filled cement blocks using a stop leak stuff mixed in and rendered well. Back fill of the work area was packed with dirt and left over cement. No rebar in the walls. Completed in August this year and filled. To date I can not find or detect a leak of any kind. The pond sits in open sun area. This pond will supply fish poo water for my aqua phonics set up that I just completed yesterday. So now I am really getting brave and plan to build one last pond. To be built in the large hole made when the house was built. A hold that will not hold water. I plan to build this pond between 36 feet by 53 feet or reduced to 16 foot by 33 feet long. In either case it is to be 120 cm's deep planning to keep the water level at one meter. The size of this pond is being determined by how much dirt I have available. The hole is closed off by property that is not mine on three sides and houses. To bring in dirt or haul dirt out would have to be done with a wheel barrow and a laborer. A machine cannot get in because there is no room for such. I plan to build it the same as I did pond #2 except that it will be bigger. That is why this thread. I want to be sure I don't make any big mistakes that require big repair and expense later. If anyone has any comments or helpfull ideas they would be appreciated. I plan to post photos soon. I have two photos of the hole for pond #3 if I can figure out how to upload them to TD.
    I have finally got to the point of starting construction on my largest pond. It will be 14M X 8M X 1M. I plan to build it exactly the same as I did the 8 foot by 20 foot pond described above. Please give me your advice and suggestions on this build. I have two concerns: One is - should there be any more foundation beam than the one running around the circumfrence of the pond - like one crossing the pond floor in the middle? And Two, with the length of the walls being longer - should I add any iron for extra strength? Thank you, John

  11. #36
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    How do I stop my diddy little pond going green?

    I have to change the water once a week.

  12. #37
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    try to give it more shade

    if you have fish, they tend to add to the nitrogen, so put in more plants

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by FarangRed View Post
    You cant load photo's on here then you have no fukin chance of doing a fish pond
    Thats stuffed it for me then

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