If that don't work they will come in very useful for wiping up all the ghekco shit on the window sillsOriginally Posted by FatOne
If that don't work they will come in very useful for wiping up all the ghekco shit on the window sillsOriginally Posted by FatOne
OP I am curious you ask for the opinion of others then pick apart the suggestions.
Was this simple a troll all along or do you have a pet theory about the subject.
Fill the place with air con units job done.
Sounds like you pretty much have it right.Originally Posted by gerry53
Autoclaved Aerated Concrete (AAC) blocks. Qcon but one of several brands available in Thailand in varying thicknesses.
20 X 60 X 7.5
20 X 60 X 10.0
20 X 60 X 12.5
20 X 60 X 15.0
20 X 60 X 20.0
Use the 15 or 20 cm for exterior walls. No need for double wall with air gap. 10 cm for interior walls. These blocks are used extensively these days so finding experienced builder is easy.
Single story with floor raised about 50cm above ground with ventilated crawl way under floor would be better choice than a slab. Stays cool and raises floor to prevent water reaching the floor. Also allows access to sewage pipes and room for tubing to inject insect killer under the house.
Reflective sheet under roof tiles is worth the cost. Coolroof is one brand but others available. Well ventilated attic with above ceiling insulation is a must.
Double glazed and/or low E windows are expensive. Certainly good as insulator but I opted not to use. Plenty of shade trees and plants around the house and window coverings keep things cool. Double glazed windows do however dampen sound. Something to consider if you build in a noisey area.
Plenty of air con size calculators on line. Use to calculate size you need and off ya go to purchase. Recommend inverter type.
Do all above and your house will be cool enough to hang meat in.
Last edited by Norton; 26-08-2015 at 09:31 AM.
This is what we did:
- downstairs walls constructed with those nasty little red bricks
- upstairs timber walls
- 1 m roof overhangs plus a skirt roof at the brick/timber level, plus tree shade
- tinted glass plus lace curtails
- the most exposed Southwest wall is the upstairs bathroom
- the house is on a ground slab about 0.5 m high
- high ceilings with large remote control fans in the living area and the bedrooms
- A/C for the downstairs living area and each upstairs bedroom
This is what we get. Here are the temperatures over a hot day during April - with no breeze:
time 6:00 9:00 12:00 15:00 18:00
indoors deg C 29 28 29 30 31
shaded porch 26 33 38 39 34
So downstairs indoors is around 29 deg C all day. Incidentally the koi pond temperature is 32. I guess represents the ambient temperature of the area. The wind chill from ceiling fans cool the inside, making A/C unnecessary for general living. (We used it when the monks came). On hot days at night we use A/C in the bedrooms, with the fans.
This works for us.
The picture was taken at about 9:00 am. That green shade netting is over the koi pond - but that's another story
Very nice. Many ways to skin a cat when it comes to a cool house.
just seen the answer to the stilts issue, stilts are to avoid flooding but hot air rising is an issue, build on mound with structural piles, its elevated from floods and not getting hot air
DOH ... why didn't I think of that? Solar Power in sunny Thailand. Electricity very expensive in Thailand. Bad dam building in LOS. Go figure ... Eh?
It doesn't flood where I live and there's no chance of that changing. So why do they still build upwards. I think it's for show in making the house look bigger that what it is. Prestige for the family?Originally Posted by SiLeakHunt
Most important. Here in Australia it can get quite warm, and after 20+ years here my (Thai) wife still cannot resist the urge to throw those doors and windows open on hot days. But when I'm up early enough to stop her, I can keep the house cool into mid-afternoon without air-con, even on 40 degree days. Once the heat penetrates the insulation though, it's air-con or nothing.
Big problem we have is the house is made of clay brick and the roof of cement tiles. You can feel the heat radiating off them both well into the night. Our Thailand build will have the QCon blocks and a well-insulated / ventilated metal roof. On a slab.
You know, walking past a warehouse or something near Buriram one day I spotted their roofed, open-sided truck parking area. Steel frame and girders. (?) Huge area underneath, almost enough for a house...
So my wife thinks I'm mad and wouldn't it be ugly, but build your house under one of those and you'll be in permanent shade.
If you've got a teenage son connect his right hand to a large fan with string, that should keep the house cool until he gets a girlfriend
Oooohhh, I've just 'got' your moniker. You silly cvnt! Haha, my ebay username is 'ahsol'. Not as subtle as yours.
Revisiting the thread to post a couple of links I have come across in the last week.
Oz govt website about sustainable housing, passive cooling etc.
And a case study on that site that seems to be right up the OP's alley: Case Study: Darwin river NT
Cheers.
There are a myriad of ways to build and keep your house thermally efficient. IMHO the first consideration is where you are building.
Few examples;
Say you were building a house on a big flatland area, no shade and virtually no breeze. Building a 2 story house would not be wise choice as the sun would beat down on the walls all day and Qcon or not heat saturation is going to be a problem. You would have long walls that large eaves cannot cover. Be far wiser to build a single story with long eaves and a much steeper roof angle Maybe 18 versus 14 degrees with good insulation. Avoid using dark tiles, light color helps dramatically. Roof vents are a must.
If you live in a mountain area where large trees are present or where there is always a nice consistent breeze building the house on pillars(stilts) is a very good way as the airflow underneath will dissipate heat more readily. Again long eaves and steep roof angle, proper insulation, large windows to take advantage of the daily breeze would help as well.
In the end a lot depends on the individual and what their personal expectations or needs are. Our house is on pillars. We have a very nice breeze virtually all the time. The underneath of our place stays incredibly cool and we love being outside. We had over-sized windows installed through out the house to take advantage of it. We also have a ventilated roof system and solar powered fans. What I really like is it gives me a covered work area and a place to kick it in a hammock. Additional perks are it keeps traffic in and out of the house down along with no uninvited guests. My wife and I also do not have an issue with heat so its not a problem for us. We do not need a 75-78 degree living environment and I personally do not care much for AC as I do not like walking in and out of it.
I built 232 m2 2 levels
Alllexterior wals 20cm autoclave Superbloc
hey will send a team to train your builder free
I visted the factory at nr Sophanburi by appt
Very good aftersales support Q-Con is sae product/price
I sudied Queensland Uni and trad big Eaves
Some suggestions
NO S facong apertures
2 Build 6 degrees N of NW for optiaml thermal transfer at 20 fegrees North
Roof crucial it's a double pyramid
I used refective insulation
The roof overhangs 1.5 meter all round
The overap is screened to prevent birds/insects
Avoid cavity wall in moist climes most of Siam
I have only 1 20cm x 20cm window
All other egresses are 2m x 1.5 double doors you can choose how to open/screen/luver
Trees and plants provide a lot of shade
As I live in the coolest province at low level vbar Loei Nan or M Hong Soong but only 500m over sealevel manage too only need odd fan and air cone in ne closed area during Spring afternoons 2-5pm
I knew from living in Thai Homes and nr Withnall in central funace Id be sucking ale in aircon dens without a cool home
Side benefits far fewr creepy crawlies
The blocks allow you to pour columns rero
Can chase electrics and wiring flush into the blocks woth their special tool basically a special chise around 400 baht
You dont need special trowels saws or whisk tho the ones supplied are cheap and A! quality
Im planning a new unit and woudn't fream f using any othe material.
PM if you like to visit or can email some pix,Ive forgotte jw to spend hours loading them here where my ppix are deleted pr forums where I cannot reply
Good luck
All in all the extra speed and coolenees has repaid the extra 30k outlay and has been amortised ,I may move but never plan to leave the coolest house in our province
^^^^^^
Hi David,
Your post sounds like good advice, experience being shared. Like you I hope to avoid aircon as much as possible - don't want to spend my days inside a "refrigerator".
My build will be near Buriram (15 N), so some aspects won't relate to yours. And I only have experience in the Southern Hemisphere, so I'm going to sound a bit thick. But I'd like to clarify a couple of things if I may. Hopefully the OP will get some use from it too.
No south facing apertures? How important is that? I realise you're not going to be keen on winter sun in Thailand like you are in colder climes, but I would have thought avoiding the Western sun was more important. No? Is it just direct sun to be avoided?Originally Posted by david44
I was planning south or SE facing with wide (3.5m) covered verandah along the entire front of the house. (If I have no southern apertures our house will have its back to our pond / dam.)
I have read contradictory advice on this - most say short wall facing west, but some say short wall facing south. If I thought I could find a Thai architect that did 'eco design' I'd ask him, but I don't like my chances of finding one.
Do you mean solid (timber) doors, or some glass sliding doors?Originally Posted by david44
You mean face the house 6 degrees N of NW? That matches your 'avoid southern sun' advice.Originally Posted by david44
Why double pyramid roof? Is one big cavity with all the fans and vents as good? The concern there is heat from a hot section of the house heating the ceiling in the cooler section is it?Originally Posted by david44
What do you mean here?Originally Posted by david44
Not what a lot of people say, but common sense and logic tell me this is spot on.Originally Posted by david44
Thanks.
Gleaned from the site mentioned.
Hot humid orientation (Darwin).
Divide the home into separate pavilions to maximise the cross-flow of breezes. Canopy trees partially overhang the roof and shade all walls without blocking breezes. Where such shading can’t be achieved, an elongated east–west floor plan will limit low solar access to east and west walls (in reverse for Thailand).
Both the building form and understorey plantings are designed to funnel breezes into the building and allow them to escape.
A pavilion design allows hybrid cooling, where two pavilions might be free-running and the third designed and insulated for air conditioning.
Better to think inside the pub, than outside the box?
I apologize if any offence was caused. unless it was intended.
You people, you think I know feck nothing; I tell you: I know feck all
Those who cannot change their mind, cannot change anything.
can you expand on this ?Originally Posted by david44
the sun still rises in the east and sets in the west in the northern hemisphereOriginally Posted by VocalNeal
^ I was stood on my head!
Here's a handy "motions of the sun" simulator:
http://astro.unl.edu/naap/motion3/an...sunmotions.swf
This sort of thing would be ideal then.
When I seen it I figured it was a just conversion of an old farmhouse into a much larger residence.
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