Aha. So water is flowing through the unit? (Could have made that clear in post 1...)
Have you reset the elb, maybe it's tripped?
Else it's fucked. Do what Andy said and get hope pro to send someone out.
Aha. So water is flowing through the unit? (Could have made that clear in post 1...)
Have you reset the elb, maybe it's tripped?
Else it's fucked. Do what Andy said and get hope pro to send someone out.
Good on point A.Originally Posted by Thungsongsausage
B. The plumbing is connected at the "inlet," port of the water heater?"
"Outlet," plumbing is then directed to your wall mounted shower head with no intermediate connections? (suggest you install another valve here as well.) Good for bleeding the water heater and flushing. Remember you may need to replace this water heater in the future. good easy isolation and removal without to much water hassles or effort.
Water heater: Does it have a "thermostat?" If so, is it set on a specific temperature of just on "0?"
If no thermostat, how do you select hot water mode?
Do you have a "reset," button? Push it, perhaps it is keeping you locked out of power source.
The water heater seems to have a faulty relay or thermostat. Can you open the thermostat works? Perhaps a loose connection or not connected at all. Use a voltage screwdriver to check for voltage? "BE CAREFUL."
I doubt if that is the problem.Originally Posted by Necron99
On my unit when the elcb is tripped all the lights on the heater go out.
He said that the power light was on.
^ wouldn't be plumbing either as it would have valves to prevent backwash, not possible to run water through backwards.
Ok, I'm stumped. I'll go with Pii. Call a monk.
Perhaps the original plumber is right....
He got a buggered water heater. No worries, it should have warranty and HomePro should be happy to assist with a replacement unit.
Went to HomePro and,
1) The heater needs a 50 Amp fuse = 9500W / 22V = 43.18Amps
2) The heater needs the earth connected.
3) The Heater needs a water volume value (a tap from pipe to heater)
All in all.... the builder is wank and so the electrical expert sent by the builder.... Most of the this info is from the internet or Teakdoor....
DON'T LET MONKIES PLAY WITH POWER TOOLS...............
Are you saying that it hasn't been earthed ?
^ get the monk to sprinkle some over it.
Looks that way. Hardly surprising given that nature of domestic electricians in Thailand. If its a new build it suggests that non of the house sockets are earthed either
it is probably not knackered, maybe just has a problem with installation
get HomePro on the phone, don't take it back, they will need to see it (not) working
I bought a 3000W Water Heater to replace the existing burned out one. GF's cousin is the local area "go to" guy for everything from electrical wiring to building a complete house. He is in high demand by all the area ferangs. He pulled the unit out of the box, opened it and said, "Mai Dee". "Whuttaya mean?", I said. GF translates, but wasn't up on the technical terms. Back to the English speaking Thai/Chinese run Hardware Store. "No way', he says .... but he knows the Cousin. He gets his man to test it in the rear yard. Son of a gun ... cousin is correct. Brand new unit is defective. Got a replacement installed. It works fine. Clever bugger ... that cousin. He never tested it with a multi meter.
I installed 2 new Mazuma 4500 Miracle water heaters from Home Pro. They are 4500w each and work fine. However, the pressure out of the heater is not as high as I'd like, nor as high as going into the heater (reservoir tank with pump). I checked and cleaned both filtering screens at the heater inlets but no noticeable improvement. The flex pipe that runs from the wall spigot to the heater has a smaller inside diameter than the the spigot. My questions are: 1) Can I install larger inside diameter flex pipes between wall and heater, and heater and shower head? 2) Should the heater be able to handle the increased flow? 3) If the answer to both questions is yes, is it common to take the current flex pipe to a hardware store and get larger inside diameter ones with the same size connection bits?
Thanks!
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