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The filling of minced pork must be flavoured enough for it to be tasty without being salty.
Besides the meat, each dumpling must be swollen with stock.
And finally, what really tests the skill of the chef is that the skin must not be thick or taste floury, and yet not so thin that it bursts when you pick up the dumpling with your chopsticks.
To have soup running all over the plate before you pop the dumpling into your mouth? What a letdown.
Some restaurants cheat by adding a little glutinous rice flour into the dough. That makes the skin slightly elastic and more resilient, but unfortunately more chewy too.
That is a problem you never find with Crystal Jade’s dumplings ($4.50). I’ve never had one burst on me, and the skin is always just the right texture and thickness.
And the taste? Pure pleasure.