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4 Murray Street, Murray Terrace, Tel: 6226-2283 Open: 11am to 2.30pm, 6 to 10pm
In the 1980s, a friend introduced me to this restaurant for two dishes – the roast chicken and the golden coin crab tofu.
The chicken is still good but it is the tofu dish ($12) that has stayed ahead of the competition all these years.
I remembered that in the old days, the deep-fried tofu (which gave the dish its pretty name) had a very smooth texture.
If memory serves me right, it was a bit like the egg tofu that many restaurants now use for their version of the dish.
But Moi Lum’s tofu now comes as round puffy balls with a sponge-like texture, much like tofu that has been frozen before being deep-fried.
The sponginess actually makes the tofu better at soaking up the starchy gravy it is cooked in. Pop one into the mouth and you can savour the gravy, sweet with the flavour of crab meat, oozing out.
For colour and a bit of crunch, the dish comes with vegetables such as broccoli, carrot and straw mushroom.
Eaten on its own or with hot white rice, it simply tastes wonderful.