Yes, I am still going to retire in Roxas PIJust not this week....
I mentioned in another post that I wanted to make a Christmas visit to the orphanages around Inle Lake, in Shan State, where I last travelled 6 years ago.
And thus I find myself in the small town of Nyaung Shwe, which nestles at the north end of Inle Lake, and is where tourists set off for boat trips on the lake.
I was last here visiting orphanages 6 years ago, and how it has changed, thanks to Covid and then the military coup. Absolutely no foreign tourists of course. There are local tourists, but my driver tells me that they all stay in nearby Taunggyi, and then make day trips to Nyaung Shwe. So the town economy has collapsedNo large hotels are open, no 'western' food restaurants, no tourist shops etc. The mobile internet is stopped by the military and there are only a few hours of electricity each day...
My trip from Mandalay was not so good! I got food poisoning the day before in Mandalay (custard creme), so wasn't feeling on top of the world. My driver told me that the main route to Inle Lake had huge delays (4 hours), since every vehicle was x-rayed for weapons. So we took a smaller road over the mountains. This was a 6-hour 'switchback' journey on a small and very bumpy road. Every few km we had to stop for police or military checkpoints.
As we approached Kalaw, the military presence was much tougher, and the soldiers were surprised to see a foreigner. At 2 checkpoints, they did not want to let me proceed. But my driver told them that I was an important foreigner, and the soldier didn't want the responsibility of stopping me! So we proceeded.
Right now, I'm at a zero-star hotel in Nyaung Shwe. (I won't show you photos of the bathroom because maybe you've just eaten your lunch!). Since there are no minimarts open or western food restaurants, I bought some banana, fried chicken and fresh bread, which will keep me in the land of the living tonight. Tomorrow I'll start my orphanage and monastery school visits/donations...
I chatted with the banana seller, who spoke good English. My Burmese language ability is what language experts call 'pretty crxp'. It's at conversational level for both spoken and reading the language, which no doubt is still much better than most westerners! She told me that I was the first foreigner that she had seen in weeks...