I wake up at 6 '0 clock these days; I've no idea why but it's become a little perturbing, especially as I don't start work until 10. Over the last few months though, to kill the hour or two between when the rest of my family get up, I've started on a new book - just 20-30mins a day, but it soon adds up. Although this is a book primarily about football, the prologue is about Thailand, so the read might interest you... or it might not.
Prologue
In 2006 a succession of topsy-turvy meanderings had led me into quite a startling set of circumstances. I was living in a makeshift village, a shanty town I suppose, on the southern Thai peninsula with some 50 Laotians and heavy smattering of North-East Thai natives. The settlement comprised around 20 or so huts of varying sizes which had been hastily pieced together out of lengths of old lumber, sheets of rotting plywood, and a whole truck load of rusted corrugated iron - just to lend the locale that really run down, dilapidated look.
The bathroom was a communal affair whose centrepiece was a 10’x4’ trough full of rainwater which cunningly doubled as a shower, and running adjacent to this were a trio of scantily encased squat toilets which left very little to the imagination, and only the hard of hearing were spared a full bowel movement narrative. And the kitchen, well, there wasn’t a kitchen; no sinks, no dishwasher, no breakfast bar, no white quartz 38mm high definition laminate worktop, no fridge, no food. You ate what the day threw up at you, and you often threw it back up. Ants eggs, rats, snakes, monitor lizards and randomly plucked pieces of vegetation were among the daily specials, and if these weren’t available you made the walk of shame to the little mom and pop shop a couple of clicks down the road and bought a bag of instant noodles. But at six baht, or 10 pence, a pop, this was classed as something of a frivolity. No, we avoided the mom and pop shop, unless the whiskey had run out.
I wasn’t here on a philanthropic assignment, you understand. No, I was here because I had been on a holiday which had gone frightfully wrong and was now skint – brassic, without a pot in which to piss - and had somehow managed to secure gainful employment with a local construction outfit who moved around the region building houses. They were a transient crew who would uproot their entire village and move on to the next job with everything down to the WC crammed into the back of their fleet of trucks and lorries. Then, upon finding a suitable spot, would make camp for however long - weeks, months or years - the project took them to complete.
Coming from the poorer parts of South-East Asia, you’d rightly assume that home entertainment appliances were not among the componentry of my colleagues’ pop-up village. I think one chap had an antiquated transistor radio, and someone else had a stupendously large mobile phone that looked fresh from the Fisherprice production line. This was no good to me though, or the other English chap who - in a similar set of circumstances as mine - had taken residence here in the camp and was now having to toil his way out of trouble. He’d been a friend for a few years, and together we spiralled cataclysmically out of control, eventually crash landing in this little village. We may have gone native, but we still had one very strong connection to civilisation. It was 2006. It was a World Cup year. England had qualified for the tournament that this year was being held in Germany and we simply had to watch their opening group game against Paraguay. Had to. And a radio that didn’t work or a mobile telephone that wasn’t actually mobile were not going to assist us with this. Thus, it was time to pay a visit to the foreman.
We’d been earning the princely wage of around 20 pounds a week for the past six months (yes, really) and I thought it was time for a pay rise, or at least an advance so we could go into town and watch the game with a few beers. I informed him, in Laotian, that we demanded to watch the match, and we preferably wanted to do this in a state of moderate to acute intoxication, because we are English and this is what we do, dammit. I’d been slowly broiled by this blasted South-East Asian heat for four years now and was starting to get a little irked. The foreman, his name was Dit, put his finger up primarily to silence my tirade, but also because he’d had an idea. I have just the thing, he said in his own language. Putting down his glass of whiskey he made his way to the back of his hut - the biggest in the village - and rifling through a darkened corner of the room he eventually unearthed a television set. A very small television set with no plug or aerial. But it was a start. And the next day, myself and my western colleague who hailed from the Potteries, borrowed a motorcycle and with our meagre wages bought a plug, a mighty coil of co-ax and a large, roof mounted aerial - anything less here in the jungle wouldn’t have cut it; if we were to watch this World Cup with any clarity we needed something that would poke through the canopy cover.
Taking the afternoon off work, we began Project Paraguay. Placing the television set just inside our humble little hovel, my colleague wired up the plug while I got to work rigging up the aerial. But first, in time-honoured big-tournament tradition, a snifter, a mere finger or two of the good stuff - and the good stuff on this occasion, as it had been for the past six months, was a demonic brew known locally as lau khao - literally, whiskey rice – and it weighed in an authoritative 40 per cent alcohol. Fortified, we continued our tasks with varying degrees of success. My colleague had managed to wire the plug, and our sole mains supply was now occupied, but I wasn’t making as much progress with the mast as I would’ve liked at this stage, struggling to stabilise the aerial which I had fastened to the top of a 20 foot length of bamboo. I called for back up. The moonshine was once again brandished, and we took a moment to reassess not only the aerial situation but also our lives in general and how we’d come to arrive at such an unusual juncture. We laughed a lot. Laughing was a coping mechanism. We used it in lieu of crying.
After making our way through about half of the bottle, we were just about to enter the singing phase of the session – you know, that bit where you expose your entire soul attempting to ape Elvis Presley – when I had the idea of using a neighbouring coconut tree to scaffold the rig. And thus it was we set to with a hammer and nails, haphazardly pinning the bamboo to the coconut tree. The fizz of white noise on the television was now interspersed with people talking, the match was only an hour away, and we’d apparently timed this to perfection. I went into the hut and had a look at the TV, catching a flash of the English kit (playing in home colours today) before the flush of electrical hissing once again monopolised the screen.
A few minor adjustments later, after manipulating a palm frond so it clamped the rig at an optimum angle, we were rewarded with a clear picture featuring a Thai presenter and three pundits previewing the match. We finished the Lau Khao in celebration, triumphantly chucking it down our gullets with unbridled gusto, and yet, quite tragically, passing out just as David Beckham led the team out onto the pitch in the Frankfurt sunshine. We were snoring sonorously as Beckham swung in a free-kick which glanced off a Paraguayan head and into his own goal, making it one-nil to England. We had been rendered heavily salivating wrecks as the South Americans began to dominate the second half, and looking poised to level the scoring were unable to deliver the decisive blow.
The post-match punditry fell on deaf ears; we were now snared in the furthest reaches of the deepest, darkest land of nod, and even a large gathering of locals, amassing round our television set to take in the match, failed evoke a stir.
So for all our exertions Operation Paraguay had been a complete wash-out. We had failed in our mission. But the stage had been set, the television had been primed, and we were now prepared for the following two groups games against Trinidad and Tobago and the Swedes. Indeed, having already chalked up a victory, winning this cup looked well within our capabilities. This was our year; I knew it…