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  1. #1
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    A wild week in Isaan

    Part 1.Khon Kaen.

    Apologies in advance for lack of photos and lengthy text, camera was broke so didnt take any.

    The wild week began in Phitsanulok. I know, not Isaan but bear with me. At the time, the beginning of December last year, I lived and worked in Cambodia and was on a well deserved holiday to Thailand. I arrived in Phitsanulok on the train from Chiang Mai in the afternoon with the intention of visiting Sukhothai, as I'd never been there. Walked out of the train station, checked into the cheap hotel directly opposite, had the three S's and started walking to the riverside to get some food.

    After I had walked a minute or so, I saw a familiar figure walking towards me....my Aussie mate Bryan from Phnom Penh, with his Khmer girlfriend in tow. So obviously we then went for a beer or ten. Asked what his plans were he said he was planning on going to Khon Kaen, then Surin and then back to Cambodia via Chong Jom before Christmas. Funnily enough, my plans were the same, except I was going to Pattaya after Surin to meet some friends coming over from England.
    Anyway, we decided to travel together.

    Got thrown out of the riverside bar at the stroke of midnight due to the cops arriving to make sure they all closed then, arranged to meet the next day to visit Sukhothai, which I wont bore you by describing, and a couple of days later we arrived in Khon Kaen.

    Khon Kaen is one of my favourite places in Isaan, I dont know why I just really like it there. Maybe cos its quite lively for a city in the middle of Isaan and has good cheap local-style nightlife. Whatever, first night we arrived we had a few quiet beers in Sevens corner bar and retired fairly early. The next night my Aussie mate flaked out early again (under the thumb!) and left me talking to the new Thai owner of the bar, really nice bloke, and a couple of English expats who live in KK. So far so tame.

    I'd had a fair few beers by now and got to asking the English blokes about the nightlife options, clubs etc. They told me about the Tawan Daeng in KK and as I'd been to the one in Surin before and had a good time I decided to go there. They said they wanted to go too so one of them went and got his 4x4, his girlfiend, her friend and next thing we were at Tawan Daeng.

    The place was jumping, with a good band on stage playing rowdy Isaan cowboy music and pissed up Isaan girls dancing on tables. The floor was literally vibrating! A bottle of Johnny Black was bought along with a load of beers and we all proceeded to get extremely pissed. Took a wander round the place and was invited to drink whiskey by at least three tables of pissed Thais and attracted the attention of a group of nice looking young Thai girls, dont think they see many young Farang in there that often!

    One attractive young lady came to my table and was trying to persuade me to allow her to accompany me to my hotel that night. Unfortunately, despite her charms, I was far too intoxicated to even consider it and had to decline her kind offer! So, a good night was had by all and we check binned and left. Only problem was when we got back to the town I had completely forgot where my hotel was so I decided to jump out the car and have a wander round to look for it.

    After walking around for about 10 minutes I realised I didnt have a clue where I was, saw a 7/11 and decided to buy a beer to walk about with. Outside were a group of moto taxi drivers drinking Lao kao with water and playing Checkers with bottle tops. As I didnt have anything better to do and was already extremely drunk, I bought a bottle of Lao Kao and sat down with them. I was there for a fair bit having a banter in a mix of pidgin Thai and pidgin English and thought I had better try and find my hotel again.

    I attempted to stand up and my legs turned to jelly beneath me, causing me to fall over. Face first. Without even putting my hands out to break the fall. THATS how drunk I was. The taxi boys picked me up off the floor and were saying I should go to the hospital, or back to my hotel and that they'd take me. As I didnt know where the hotel was I said no and that i didnt need a hospital and off I stumbled into the Khon Kaen night.

    Eventually, I found my hotel and went into a deep drunk sleep, fully clothed with my shoes still on, until the afternoon next day. I awoke with a monstrous hangover and blinding headache, with my face stuck to the pillow with blood. I went and looked in the mirror and in amongst the dried blood I had cuts and grazes on my forehead, eyebrow, cheek, nose, jaw and on each shoulder due to not putting my hands out. They were still full of dirt and cleaning them out in that state was agony!

    Bryan came to my room and started pissing himself at the state of me and his girl went and got me some food. To say that day was a write off is an understatement! Aside from a sneaky trip to soi Haa-Roy (!) the next day I pretty much stayed in the hotel until we got the bus to Surin the day after that.

    Part 2 in Surin to come later, including more cops, blood, drinking and a bit of fighting thrown in too, if I havent already bored you to death yet!

  2. #2
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    Wow, Im -45 in the red already! Surely this thread isnt THAT bad!

    Part 2: Surin

    Ok, so we get the bus to Surin with me looking like I've been beaten up by a Muay Thai fighter and feeling self concious at all the funny looks and check in to a hotel. After that it was straight to get some food from the market and then to the Farang Connection bar to ask about renting motorbikes for some sightseeing.

    The bikes were'nt going to be available until the day after next. This meant we had an evening to do as we wished without any plans for the morning. Usually this would mean a good few beers and a nice lie-in the next day, unfortunately it was one of those days in Thailand where there was no alcohol sales for political/King, I cant remember what. Fortunately for us, however, the nice girls who work at the Norwegian bar allowed us some beer in mugs so we stayed there the night and had a great time joking around in a mix of Khmer, Thai and English.

    The next day was pretty much spent ambling around, talking to various townsfolk in the markets etc. I like Surin, not a great deal to see or do but the people are friendly, you get a lot of Hello's, Sabai dee's and I personally find it easier to communicate there than other bits of Thailand, given my limited level of Thai and decent conversational grasp of Khmer. The people make the place and I really do feel a genuine warmth from them as opposed to people in more heavily touristed areas of Thailand. Same goes for Buriram, Sisaket etc.

    That night we decided to do a bit of a bar crawl, nothing too heavy, just a little excursion to sample the local nightlife, but the road to hell and all that.....
    We started off in the Norwegian bar at beer o clock (sundown) and after a couple of hours made our way to a Thai bar-restaurant opposite the entrance to Soi Kola, a little girly bar strip catering mainly to locals. Watching the comings and goings on the strip and flirting with a couple of pretty waitresses in the bar made me eager to go and check out the girly bars and see what they had to offer.

    Bryan was keen too, for future reference maybe, but his girlfriend less so! He persuaded her anyway and we ended up in a sort of coyote bar where a few seriously hot girls would appear on a stage in the center of the club for a song or two, then disappear again for a song or two. Im not sure if they were for take out or just to make the place look nice.

    After a couple of drinks Bryan got nagged to go back to the hotel by the missus, I stayed for another drink and then left. I got to the end of the strip and ended up going back into the bar we'd started in to flirt with the waitress a bit more. I bought her a drink and she sat with me as the bar was empty. As we were chatting to each other a big fight broke out between some young lads outside Speed, two groups of four or five people. There were Muay Thai kicks flying about and a few blows thrown but nothing too serious and it died down after a minute or two when their other friends broke it up.

    The waitress mentioned she was finishing soon so I thought I'd ask her to come to the Surin Tawan Daeng. She agreed but said she was too drunk to drive, so I drove us there (Not condoning drink driving BTW, I suppose it was pretty stupid.)on her fino. It was a pretty mediocre show that night compared to the one in Khon Kaen and as we were chatting away I could see my companion becoming increasingly drunk and sure enough she soon had to visit the toilet to be sick.
    That was the end of that night, as she then disappeared, leaving her bike out front.

    The next day, me feeling slightly worse for wear, we got the bikes and went to Phanom Rung Angkor era temple, which is in quite good condition. His girlfriend was pretty happy about visiting it. Its a nice day out, not quite as impressive as the temples at Angkor itself but definitely worth a look, especially if you've never been to Angkor or if you're in the vicinity. Funny thing about the road to Phanom rung from Surin is that for the whole length of it there are all sorts of strange signs for factorys making odd things such as cowboy hats and other seemingly out of place objects. There are also signs for agricultural projects so whether all these are a sort of scheme to create rural employment I dont know.

    That night, after all the driving and hiking up hills to temples while hungover I needed a hair of the dog and as Bryan was leaving the next morning to cross the border we hit the bright lights of Surin again for the last time. We went back to the bar I'd met the waitress in, she wasnt there as it was her day off and her friend said she'd walked out and got a tuk tuk to take her home, leaving the bike. Oh well, you cant win em' all!

    We went to another bar with a guy playing guitar and after a few more beers Bryan wanted to go back to the hotel yet again as he had to be up early the next day. Lightweight! I didnt let him off the hook so easy this time and managed to get him to stay out while his girlfriend went back. We decided to go to Speed and have a few. We ended up at a table next to a friendly Dutch bloke there with his girlfriend and her friends.

    He seemed an Ok guy, and was generous enough to give us some of his Whiskey so we got him a beer or two back. Bryans girlfriend was phoning him to go back to the hotel so we said our goodbyes and he went back to save the headache.

    Soon after, I was dancing with the Dutch blokes girlfriends friends and having a good time. I was sort of dancing with his girlfriend also, but in a group and made no contact or suggestive moves to her. Anyway, Dutch bloke didnt like this at all and said something quite angrily to her and stormed off. I thought I should probably go as i didnt want to piss him off, he seemed a nice guy, as I've said.

    I took my beer and went outside for a smoke while I finished it. A minute later there was a big commotion in the doorway and next thing Dutchy is getting dragged out of the club by a bouncer with his shirt ripped and blood streaming from his nose. He got thrown into the street where he ripped his shirt off and was shouting at his girl. At this point he caught sight of me and started marching over to me shouting "WHAT WERE YOU DOING WITH MY GIRL!?", looking as if he wanted to fight.

    I didnt have time to respond before he threw a punch, which just missed as he was so drunk and my automatic reaction was to just fight back. I swung wildly and by chance it contacted his already bleeding nose and after a couple more ineffective puches each we ended up falling to the ground, me on top of him. I jumped up prepared for him to get back up and just as he was doing so I felt an someone grab me from behind and put me in an arm-lock. I turned to see a plain clothes police officer flashing his police ID at me. Oh, shit. The arm lock wasnt applied with any force and the cop seemed quite amiable. He did get on the radio however.

    Another officer grabbed Dutchy and soon enough the Warrior truck came with sirens blaring and three uniformed policemen, one of whom was built massively, unlike me. Im thinking I'm seriously in the shit here, and admit that when I was put in the back seat of the cab and him and his girlfriend were in the flatbed, I was scared. I made them laugh a bit by speaking Khmer to the big cop and explaining how I was just defending myself. They didnt seem too pissed off so I just tried to relax and hoped for the best outcome of a fine.

    We pulled up at the police station and I got out the truck and Dutchy started throwing up, or pretending to, in a conveniently placed trash barrel. The cops were talking to his girlfriend in Thai and sounded and looked notably pissed off, the next minute a car pulls up and a woman steps out. I didnt know who she was.

    The police and her start talking at a rapid-fire pace and pointing at me and him. I thought she was saying I was in the wrong and couldnt remember if it was one of his girlfriends friends or not, so tried butting in to have my say. The big cop told me she was actually saying Dutchy was in the wrong so I presume she worked at Speed and saw what happened and knew whatever he'd done to get kicked out.

    After a while of this, to my amazement, the police told me to get back in the car and that they were going to take me back to my hotel. I did'nt complain and got in, amazed that they didnt at least make me pay a few thousand Baht for their trouble. Police in a tourist area in Thailand would have, I'm sure. Amazing Thailand.

    The next day I decided to leave and do the long journey to Pattaya. Ironically, when I got there I didnt feel the need to go on a bender as planned and yet my planned quiet week in Isaan beforehand turned into an eventful one to say the least!

  3. #3
    Thailand Expat
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    Wow, Im -45 in the red already! Surely this thread isnt THAT bad!
    I've enjoyed it so far, I'm sure many of us have had our embarassing drinkies moments ;(

    Good opening efforts mate, ave a green

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by khmen
    Bryan came to my room and started pissing himself at the state of me and his girl went and got me some food. To say that day was a write off is an understatement!
    Haha, I'll bet.

    Nice story mate.

  5. #5
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    neanderthals on the piss, sounds more like like a monday night out in glasgow.

    something very tragic about foreigners who feel the need to tell stories like this. waxing lyrical about going native and how drunk they got, in these flights of fantasy theres always a low rent bar and a cheap hotel next to a railway, and theres always a barmaid, a bouncer and a cop.

    only thing missing is some interest.

    did you think it up yourself, or just cut and paste it from "gap year gazette"

    change the tune, grow up, and acquire some class.

    charles bukowski, hunter d, and henry miller must be spinning in their graves.
    Last edited by taxexile; 19-10-2010 at 07:45 AM.

  6. #6
    sabaii sabaii
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    Well I enjoyed reading it.
    We need more of this on here, real people with real stories.
    Not just people copying and pasting from news sites.

  7. #7
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    We need more of this on here, real people with real stories.

    Sukhothai, which I wont bore you by describing
    he doesnt want to bore us with a description of a great historical site.

    but he has no qualms about boring us to death with

    obviously we then went for a beer or ten.
    we had a few quiet beers in
    I'd had a fair few beers by now
    and we all proceeded to get extremely pissed

    I was far too intoxicated
    decided to buy a beer to walk about with
    As I didnt have anything better to do and was already extremely drunk,
    I bought a bottle of Lao Kao
    THATS how drunk I was
    I awoke with a monstrous hangover and blinding headache, with my face stuck to the pillow with blood

    and thats just part 1.

    real people with real stories.

  8. #8
    sabaii sabaii
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    Has to be real.
    who would admit to this (In part 2)

    Quote Originally Posted by khmen
    She agreed but said she was too drunk to drive, so I drove us there (Not condoning drink driving BTW, I suppose it was pretty stupid

  9. #9
    Days Work Done! Norton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by khmen
    I went and looked in the mirror and in amongst the dried blood I had cuts and grazes on my forehead, eyebrow, cheek, nose, jaw and on each shoulder due to not putting my hands out. They were still full of dirt and cleaning them out in that state was agony!

  10. #10
    Days Work Done! Norton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by khmen
    we ended up falling to the ground, me on top of him.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by taxexile
    change the tune, grow up, and acquire some class.
    Im with you on this one taxex ,,,,,,,,,,, and anyone who is now having to jump through all the bloody hoops and empty your walletts out for those nice people in the embassy in BKK to get a visa to get your wife / gf back to the UK with you ,, it is because we are all ( assumed ) to behave in this moronic way ,, having met some old bar mat , known her 1 night got engaged , got back to Uk married / divorced , she,s on benefits etc and have to prove otherwise over and over again.
    Try spending a week in Issan mate 100% sober you might actually discover Thailand
    I'm proud of my 38" waist , also proud I have never done drugs

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by nigelandjan View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by taxexile
    change the tune, grow up, and acquire some class.
    Im with you on this one taxex ,,,,,,,,,,, and anyone who is now having to jump through all the bloody hoops and empty your walletts out for those nice people in the embassy in BKK to get a visa to get your wife / gf back to the UK with you ,, it is because we are all ( assumed ) to behave in this moronic way ,, having met some old bar mat , known her 1 night got engaged , got back to Uk married / divorced , she,s on benefits etc and have to prove otherwise over and over again.
    Try spending a week in Issan mate 100% sober you might actually discover Thailand
    Well, to be fair to Tax Exile, while I dont agree with him/her I can at least understand what he's saying and where he's coming from. You on the other hand, from what I can ascertain from your barely cohesive post, are a bit bitter and sore you cant get "some old bar mat" back to your home country. Errr....Thats not my fault mate, or any other "drunken neanderthals" in Thailand for that matter.

    Do you not think the reason your missus is being denied entry is that she is an uneducated "barmat" with no discernable assets, no steady job and no perceivable reason to return home and hence is classified as a risk, hence visa denied?

    Oh, and I've spent many an enjoyable week in Isaan without getting drunk, but I hardly think getting drunk prevents you from "discovering Thailand". Have you actually seen how much alchohol is consumed by rural Thai's in Isaan? Or heard of the little known Thai concept of "Sanuk"? Anyway, Last time I checked the trailblazers passed through LOS a long time ago, and I wasnt there to "discover" anything, just to have an enjoyable holiday.

    To everyone that greened me, cheers, to those who did'nt enjoy the OP, thats fine, I'll post some more sober, balanced trip reports with some decent photos soon.

  13. #13
    Thailand Expat
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    PS. Norton, I actually LOL'ed! Hilarious!

  14. #14
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    Good yarn mate! Sounds about right to me!

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    sunsetter's Avatar
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    so wheres the pattaya bit then?

  16. #16
    anonymous ant
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    jeez.
    what is the fuss all about?

    i really enjoyed the op.

    ..so he got pissed and chatted up a few whores and puked and fell over.

    so what!

    in isaan this would be absolutely normal behaviour for at least 80 percent of thai males in isaan before 8am (they don't drink after meals, only before...)
    the restrictions on the sale of alcohol between certain hours last time i was in thailand made allowances for this!
    the thais would not even have noticed!

    the guy was on holiday,ffs.

    weekends and holidays find me cracking my first beer at 5.00am. -ok, so i don't puke or fall down, but this guy ended up on the lao-khaow, so quite understandable, as is the hangover he wrote about!

    some guys on here need to lighten up a bit.
    Last edited by tsicar; 20-10-2010 at 12:58 AM.
    brrrzzzzt, brrrzzzt!
    beep!. ting, ting
    redirecting, please be patient..........:

    hello, insect!
    brrrzzzt, brrrzzzt..................

  17. #17
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    Sorry bout that Tiscar me old cock sparrow ,, I guess you mean me by " some " guys

    Next time I am on me hols must remember to get pissed out me skull everyday and smack a few of the locals in the village mabe puke on the MILS table then I know I will REALLY be enjoyin meself ,,,,,,,,,,,, something to tell the lads back down at the local when I get home ooooooo I could get pissed in there to !
    Do you know what Im really getting into this now will pack some Union Jack undercrackers and a handkerchief to tie round me head .

    Cmmmmmmmmmmmmmon fuk the culture lets show em !
    Knees up muvver braaaan

  18. #18
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    I like to read evryones honest experiences, not that interested in plain sour responses, Good luck to you son, your holiday trips are no where near as damaging as some of the old sops who post their self righteous crap.
    Thanks for taking the time to post.

  19. #19
    anonymous ant
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    Quote Originally Posted by nigelandjan View Post
    Sorry bout that Tiscar me old cock sparrow ,, I guess you mean me by " some " guys

    Next time I am on me hols must remember to get pissed out me skull everyday and smack a few of the locals in the village mabe puke on the MILS table then I know I will REALLY be enjoyin meself ,,,,,,,,,,,, something to tell the lads back down at the local when I get home ooooooo I could get pissed in there to !
    Do you know what Im really getting into this now will pack some Union Jack undercrackers and a handkerchief to tie round me head .

    Cmmmmmmmmmmmmmon fuk the culture lets show em !
    Knees up muvver braaaan
    nigel.

    ..or are you jan?

    ..or perhaps somewhere in-between?

    please allow me to explain:

    getting pissed and chatting up whores and falling down and spitting on the floor and puking is TOTALLY NORMAL BEHAVIOUR IN ISAAN.
    it is somewhat of a national sport amongst the "men" of isaan, as is whoring the top sport amongst the women.
    isaan "men" ALWAYS spit on the floor and fall down and puke and pass out when they drink:
    it is one of the things thet they do, and is EXPECTED of them; kinda like proving their "thainess" or something.
    now, should a farang man take a day off from his busy schedule of trying to behave in a manner which might lead someone like yourself to think that he is socially acceptable:
    ...and get with the "culture" you mentioned in your post, then he would have to live in isaan for a year or two, getting pissed and spitting and puking and passing out at least three times a day every day, for that is the CULTURE!
    ... and i am willing to bet that if you were to puke on the mil's dinner table (actually they don't eat at dinner tables in isaan, they SIT on them), then you would not be the first, or the last!
    ..and if you don't think it is ok to whack one of the locals around the ears a bit, then you obviosly never spent much time in isaan, coz most of them deserve a crack alongside the head on an hourly basis.

    the op took a couple of days off; had some fun and then returned to his normal lifestyle and took the trouble to post a thread about his experiences to entertain us.

    commendable behaviour, in my book!

    btw, the union jack underpants won't impress as much in isaan as if you could get your hands on a pair with a pic of che guevara printed on the front and a curry-stain on the back!
    Last edited by tsicar; 21-10-2010 at 01:57 AM.

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    sunsetter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tsicar
    btw, the union jack underpants won't impress as much in isaan as if you could get your hands on a pair with a pic of che guevara printed on the front!
    tsi, your a funny fcuker

    i agree with the rest of your post, just everyday stuff happening, make for a good post and a good read, shame some see it as letting us all down etc......

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    Well Tiscar me ols matey I am not an Issan pro like you I will admit but in the 12 times I have stayed there and I mean ALL over it apart from Sakhon Nakhon I have been pleased to say I have never witnessed behaviour like it , I have seen people out of their skulls on the old rice whisky etc but only in a way in which their Mothers/ wifes / gfs would give em a slap and take em home .
    BTW for your info the MIL has a dining table inside her home and the sit on outside job and yes the big one inside has chairs around it.
    I havent been to Issan for 10 months ,has somehting changed ?

  22. #22
    anonymous ant
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    Quote Originally Posted by nigelandjan View Post
    Well Tiscar me ols matey I am not an Issan pro like you I will admit but in the 12 times I have stayed there and I mean ALL over it apart from Sakhon Nakhon I have been pleased to say I have never witnessed behaviour like it , I have seen people out of their skulls on the old rice whisky etc but only in a way in which their Mothers/ wifes / gfs would give em a slap and take em home .
    BTW for your info the MIL has a dining table inside her home and the sit on outside job and yes the big one inside has chairs around it.
    I havent been to Issan for 10 months ,has somehting changed ?
    congratulations, nigel.
    it seems that your inlaws are "not like the other trash"

    i must admit to having met a few (mostly chinese-thais or thais married to farangs) in isaan who actually did own and use a table to dine at, and some of them did not spit on the floor or puke on the dining table.






    ..but most of them did!



    .

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by tsicar
    it seems that your inlaws are "not like the other trash"
    didnt think I had mentioned anyone else being trash ? each to their own , I personally dont like sitting on the floor to eat , or kneeling on the concrete in the thai way , BTW the dining table was around many many years before I arrived on the scene

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