Kanchanaburi

[sabang]

Pick the widest part of Thailand, and it will be pretty close to our journey from Ubon Ratchathani to Kanchanaburi. A few days in an Ubon village was enough for Mum & her hubby, over here for a holiday, so I made a snap decision to visit Kanchan for a few days before heading home to Chonburi. We overnighted at a hotel in Kheng Khoi, Saratburi and enjoyed a fine steak at the nearby Chok Chai farm steakhouse-this is becoming a regular habit in my travels upcountry. Washed down with a quite decent Thai shiraz from the Khao Yai winery.

I'd been curious to check out Kanchan for some time- for the river and mountain scenery, not the death railway stuff. War tourism isn't my thing.

The following days drive was easy enough, and of course passing through the central Thai plains you go over several rivers and klongs such as this one, but barges made this one worth a shot.



And so on to the gradual rise into Kanchan- you're in the mountains here but you'd hardly know it from the drive up. First stop of course, the River Kwai- this quaint little punt was just pulling in.



We're actually looking out on the intersection of three rivers here- the Big Kwai, Little Kwai amd MaeKhrong (?).






Nice and scenic- but I was surprised how relatively 'untouristy' the town was. Turns out we were in the real downtown, but the travellers sector is just over a kilometre away on the road heading towards the famous Kwai bridge. Different scene there- I was glad in retrospect we chanced upon here first.

[sabang]

It was lunchtime- I would have liked to go to this gaudily decked out place, but it was closed.



Where we had lunch was nearby, a floating pontoon restaurant called Tawatburi or something very similar. It was nice- I should have got a photo . I'd heard before but can now confirm, food is cheap in Kanchanaburi- is it because of the competition? Bangkokers and Phukites certainly won't find anything to complain about. Of course, local information was sourced from the smiley waitress who was very keen to assist, especially after I asked her if all ladies from Kanchan were so luvly. A gratuitous compliment goes a long way in the Land of Smiles, and only costs a little thump from the wife.

We drove around a bit looking for decent riverside accomodation, and chanced across this place, on the other side of the infamous Bridge over the River Kwai from the township. This ones entered in the TD photo competition.






^ Nice enough place for a beer.



^ Mrs looking overfed.



The Cast.

[sabang]

Prolly shouldn't bore you with this, but this chang was nearby, all of 57 years old and looking it.



Well used to us tourist types.



I'm a sucker for Chang, so purchased the obligatory rip-off bananas and gave him a feed.



How could I say no? There right across the track was his future.



Another diversion prior to finding a Hotel was this herd of water buffalo.



Amusing to see the motosai's zipping around and through the throng. The buffalo weren't bothered.



Blimey they pong though- far worse than cattle.

[sabang]

First place we checked was Bamboo Resort. These floating bungalows are nice, and decent value at 400 bht- but the toilets and showers are shared, and on dry land. Mum was having none of that, especially as she was nursing a case of Rama's revenge. They had land rooms with private bathroom for 600 bht too, but Mrs firmly rejected them 'cus she reckoned the bathrooms stunk.


Right next door though is the River Kwai bridge resort, and this was fine if not the cheapest option.



Nice, tidy well kept resort- 1200 bht inc. breakfast, after a wee bit of haggling 100bht inc. 2 free breakfasts (I never have brekky anyway).



Rooms were well designed too.






And the ubiquitous swimming pool that noone uses, just to show your not in a scruffy backpackers type place.



Theres loads of accomodation in Kanchan- from 250bht backpackers hostels that line the road leading to the Kwai Bridge, up to the large 5 star Felix Resort on the river.

We were happy with our choice though, and it kept the oldies free of bed bugs and other such hippy vermin.



Travelfish gives it a decent rap too.

River Kwai Bridge Resort, River Kwai, north of the bridge, Kanchanaburi, Kanchanaburi - Thailand guesthouse review by Travelfish.

[davearn]

Another great thread Sabang,

Struth, you sure get around mate.

Enjoyed the pics and good luck with the comp

[jizzybloke]

Very nice thanks sabang, gotta spread the rep though!

[sabang]

^ Thanks fellas- I'm the one thats going to need a holiday after ferrying the Olds around for the last month though.

The resorts got a nice bar by the River, looking towards the nearby Kwai Bridge- a fair few beers were sunk here. It ain't the infamous POW & Slave built 'Bridge over the River Kwai'- this replaced it, but it's nice.

It's beer time, so I'll leave you with a few shots looking out from the Bar and get back to the thread later.









We caught this train the next day- stay tuned for the Train journey from Hell.

[Texpat]

Nice thread Sabang. Looks like a fun vacation.

[sabang]

Built by the Japs beginning 1942, The Death Railway cost the lives of 90,000 Asian labourers and around 16,000 Allied POW's, in appalling conditions. What remains is in reality a shadow of the original project, which linked Thailand to the Burmese rail network, passing through some spectacular mountainous country on the way. After the war, the Thai and Burmese government promptly agreed to rip up 50km of the track on each side of the border. On the Thai side, the track now ends at Nam Tok- around 60km north of Kanchan by road.

Today, the infamous Railway of Death by Boredom stands as grim testament to the power of Hollywood. It has become an iconic symbol of the brutality of the nasty Japanese to Us, and even a significant tourist attraction to Them- maybe because of what can be achieved through sheer human endeavour when the Japs are in charge. Kanchanaburi, a pleasant town sitting at the confluence of the Big Kwai, Little Kwai and Maenam Khrong Rivers, sits at the Apex of a sizable pyramid of tourism, and happily milks it for all it is worth.

The day before we had decided it would be a nice idea to get the train from Kanchan- the plan being to get the train out to Sai Yok I think, get a bus back, and check out some waterfalls and the Tiger Temple (Yeck ) in the process. The day started promisingly enough-



A moody shot of the pseudo Kwai Bridge. The Jeath War museum (one of three I believe) is off to the left of this photo.

The VFW has erected this modest memorial near the bridge to the US POW's that lost their lives-



There are other memorials around for the substantially more Brits, Aussies and Dutch that died too, and I hope there is one for the Asian labourers also.

This toy train does little trips along the rail line for tourists, we however were getting the commercial service-



We had some time to kill before the train was due at 11am, so my intrepid travel companions decided to walk across the Kwai rail bridge like hundereds of other tourists every day. After about twenty metres of walking and dodging other tourists, I decided this was totally naff and left them to it. I did however get this shot of them for posterity, whilst having a beer.

[sabang]

So, what do "Bridge over the River Kwai" and "Planet of the Apes" have in common?

Well, quite a lot actually- and his name is Pierre Boulle (1912 - 94), a French author best remembered for these two novels, both of which were subsequently made into famous movies. I am sure this unassuming man had no idea of the chain of events he would set in motion, altering the town of Kanchanaburi forever, once Hollywood entered the equation. David Lean, the director, and Alec Guinness, the lead actor, were his unwitting accomplices in crime and the movie "Bridge over the River Kwai" was released in 1957. Both the book and the movie were best sellers.

My intrepid travel companions had already purchased the train tickets by the time I finished my Chang and joined them on the platform. The train is a normal commercial service, running from Bangkok to Nam Tok via Kanchanaburi. That means wooden seats and no aircon- no ploblem, I like train journeys. The regular fare is 17bht from Kanchan to Nam Tok. For a non-Thai however, the fare is 100 Bht.

Now thats taking falang pricing to extreme. The train arrived on time, we boarded and set off. Seemed to me a mix of about 50% Thai, 50% foreign, about 75% full. The train passed through some mildly interesting country, really nothing much to seperate it from any number of Thai train journeys, and stopped at a couple of stations. After about 45 minutes, I was getting a bit bored. The inevitable vendors were around, selling touristy stuff. The drinks vendor wanted 60bht for a can of Chang. Then at about the one hour mark, we pulled into a station in some one horse town.

Somewhere on the journey-



All hell broke loose- the train was besieged by what seemed like hundreds of tourists, attached to various tour groups dropped there by bus. The train was now a noisy sardine can. Fortunately, in the ten minutes or so required to get them loaded and settled (various groups wanted to sit together of course, people were shifting seats left, right and centre) I made a snap decision and got off the train- I had no idea where I was- and left my bemused party to the rest of their day. I'd had enough.

Had a bottle of Chang in the shack on the right here, looking longingly at the road out. No one was going to Kanchan, so I was stuck here until the next train in about 2.5 hours.



Wandered about for a few minutes. Had another coupla beers at the other shop in town. The other road out-



The name of the town was-



And got the next train back to Kanchan- with four large Chang in my belly, and no lunch, I was mercifully able to doze for most of the journey back, but took this shot-



Not one of my great days out, but damn I'm glad I walked off that train. There to greet me in Kanchan was a nice tropical downpour. It suited my mood -



The train fare back was, of course, another 100 bht. What a ferking rip off. Still, at least in Kanchanaburi you can-

[Marmite the Dog]

We're actually looking out on the intersection of three rivers here- the Big Kwai, Little Kwai amd MaeKhrong

The Khwae Yai splits into the Khwae Noi and the Mae Khlong.

[rawlins]

Good report sabang... thanks for sharing.

I had a couple of nights in Kan recently... and I was one of those day tour tourist sheep types that invades the train for a short trip on it...

[nedwalk]

thats the bar i got shitfaced in

[Wayne Kerr]

Man I could really use a holiday like that right now. Thanks for the great report mate.

[Nawty]

We stay in the Camelia resort which is I think next door to where you stayed or very close to it, great spot, nice pool and plenty of room as it is on a big block and only a few buildings on it. Great spot to relax by the river and the tarzan rope which my kids love is almost opposite.

We go there several times a year.

I wanted to buy a block there on the river, but was to worried about the river and young kids, that is not a river to mess with, its current is very strong and I am a good swimmer, but you barely move at times trying to swim upstream.

We also tipped over a kayak at the base of the bridge trying to look up some girls skirt. Lost the paddle. if it had been a creek instead of a river....well

[sabang]

trying to look up some girls skirt

Good point. Looking up the mini skirts of the European Backpackers was a lot of fun, standing at the base of the Kwai bridge on the other side of the river. Even my wicked Stepdad was having a geeze.

I was one of those day tour tourist sheep types that invades the train for a short trip on it.

All is forgiven.

Truthfully, if you're gonna do this thing you might as well team up with the Bus tourists. You just do the most interesting part of the 'Death' railroad, then it's back on the bus to see Waterfalls and Tigers, and/or Cemeteries & War museums, lunch thrown in somewhere. You'll fit more in your day, and the train fare is an absolute rip off anyway.

Lots of Lotus beds on the Kwai.



My brave travel companions got back around dusk, I was sleeping off the Booze by then. The Waterfalls were nothing special and crawling with tourists (Erawan are the real Falls to see around here). The Tiger temple was expensive and crawling with tourists- but at least they got their photo taken with a Tiger, and they were happy about that.



Time for everyone to take a nap, before the evenings activities.

The Khwae Yai splits into the Khwae Noi and the Mae Khlong.

Righto marmite - thanks for the Thai & geography.

[terry57]

Great photos Sabang, i enjoyed this thread.

Cheers

[kingwilly]

yeah mate., good stuff

[hillbilly]

Great read!

[DARCYF]

Sabang - great photos and commentary - brought back to me my short visit to Kanchanburi on my first ever holiday to Thailand.

[Mathos]

Nice thread pal, photographs are good as well.

It's a nice place to visit.

Trust your mum and her hubby enjoyed it too.

The River Kwai Bridge Resort is a nice place, I haven't stayed there myself, but I know a couple who have and they were quite pleased with the same.

Did you climb all the way to the top of The Erawan Falls.


(Well done Sabang,,Green)

[sabang]

Thanks again all, & back to the thread- my Monitor went on the blink, so have been computerless for a couple of days.

Did you climb all the way to the top of The Erawan Falls.

We didn't make it there Mathos, but they are the best falls around here- maybe the best in Thailand. Next time, I'll do Erawan and then head up towards Burma and the Three Pagodas Pass. Definitely nice country.

River Kwai Bridge Road is a strip of bars and restaurants, mostly catering for the backpacker market. You can find somewhere that suits you, whether it's one of those Timewarp to the 60's and 70's places where you can pretend you're a pseudo Hippy, something more conventional, somewhere more Thai oriented (and upmarket) or just somewhere quiet.

We followed a recommendation from a Thai girl at a pseudo hippy bar (haven't seen those oil lamp projector things for years ) and had a meal at Schluck restaurant- excellent, highly recommended. The place prolly intimidates the backpacker brigade because it has an upmarket look and ambience- well over 50% of the clientele that night were Thai. It is cheap- not many places you can get a 500gm T Bone for around 200 bht, and precious few where you can both do that and pronounce the steak excellent. They also do pizzas and other stuff- quite an eclectic menu. Predictably, it does good trade too. The Jolly Frog (off the road) seems to be a perennial favourite of the Lonely Planet types.

A boat trip along the Kwai, with various stops, costs a very reasonable 800 bht to hire the boat, and we set off at 8am the next morning from our resort. I reckon this is a must do, unlike the Train scam.

the Bamboo resort floating bungalows from the river-



A bridge over the Kwai-



A Nother bridge over the Kwai-



The Crew-



Dear Mum sat this one out- she has a phobia of water, and these fishtail boats can sure move.

[good2bhappy]

Great pics
Kanchanaburi is a nice province
I stayed at a resort on the menam Kwai Noi, nice and quiet
Had a great river trip as well

[sabang]

Quite a few of these maritime vendors about near the Town-







With all of these tourists, someone must be making serious money in Kanchanaburi. Now money may not buy you good Taste, but it does buy you a Good architect -



We're proceeding along the Little Kwai river-



Our first scheduled stop was evocatively described as "Nun floating in a Pool". With a short mini bus ride to get there, and no mention of whole or partial nudity, we kiboshed this one and kept going.

Who knows- maybe it was worth it.

[sabang]

Now get those tired legs moving- theres a fair few steps to do here, but the view from the top is well worth it -



Another chancer in the TD photo competition.
A Ho Hum fat Buddha-



An easy half kilometer walk to the Cave entrance, school assembly on the way-



They sting you for 40 bht 'donation' to get in. OK. Speleologists we are Not-



Plenty of Buddha stuff in the Labyrinth-



A very noisy cat indeed. Maybe it welcomed the company-



Ganesh has a cave too-



Claustrophobics need not apply-





You just keep following the arrows, and ultimately come out at a seperate entrance. On the walk back-