By Peter Janssen, dpa
Koh Samet, Thailand (dpa) - One wonders where backpackers travelling on the proverbial shoestring stay nowadays in Thailand.
Two decades ago, backpackers infested the kingdom's islands from Phi Phi to Phuket and Samui to Chang. Today, you'd be hard pressed to find a bamboo beach bungalow with a thatched roof, renting for 100 to 200 baht (2.66 to 5.33 dollars) a night at any of these now respectable "beach resorts."
Thailand's latest island destination trying to make the metamorphosis from backpackers' paradise to swanky resort is Samet, only 150 kilometres east of Bangkok. But Samet faces some obstacles on the road upmarket.
On November 1, the deluxe 40-villa Paradee Resort, situated on the secluded southern tip of Samet, will officially open its Moroccan- style doors to the "public" with room rates ranging from 13,500 baht (365 dollars) to 80,000 baht (2,160 dollars), well beyond the price range of most tourists, backpackers or otherwise.
The Paradee is one of five properties in the Samed Resorts Group, that also operates Sae Kaew Resort, Ao Phrao Resort, Le Vimarn and the recently purchased Sunset Resort, all on the island.
These resorts are already among Samet's nicest and priciest, although more affordable than the Paradee, which is being billed as a "couples resort," or "No Children, Please".
Paradee and Samed Resort Group's other properties have arguably benefited from the 2004 tsunami, which forced tour operators to find new destinations for European tourists keen on visiting Thailand, but now more mindful of the water.
"Since 2004, with the focus of tour operators switching a little away from Phuket, to places like Hua Hin, Samui and Samet, the interest is definitely more," said Bert van Walbeek, managing director of The Winning Edge company that has acted as a management consultant for the Paradee Resort.
Paradee, which had its soft opening several months ago, is already claiming a 50 per cent occupancy rate. The resort has already attracted some very upmarket clients such as Thai Princess Sirivanvari Mahidol, the daughter of Crown Prince Vajiralongkorn, who spent two nights at the resort in September.
"Suddenly we had an invasion of officials here," recalled Walbeek of the royal visit, adding, "I think it created some awareness."
Samet, although it boasts some of the whitest beaches in Thailand and remarkably clean water, has never been a prime tourist destination.
The island, ostensibly a national marine park, has for decades served as a weekend getaway for Thais and foreigners of the less well-heeled variety in search of a quick retreat from Bangkok, minus the sexual sleaze of Pattaya, Thailand's first beach resort, pioneered by the US military during the Vietnam War years, situated only 90 kilometres south-east of Bangkok.
Samet is only accessible by boat from Ban Phe, a fishing village in Rayong Province. One of the oddities tourists face when visiting Samet is an admission fee amounting to 40 baht (1.06 dollars) for Thais and 400 baht (10.60 dollars) for foreigners, half price for children.
The money, in theory, goes to the Forestry Department to help preserve the environment of the forest that covers the island and the surrounding waters.
Samet begs the description of national park. There are an estimated 4,000 registered residents on the seven kilometre island, and the most visible wildlife is a nasty breed of mosquito that leaves you with bloody welts as souvenirs a good week after your visit.
Samet also has a severe trash problem, with stacks of debris visible on most beaches, except the most exclusive ones such as Ao Prao Bay and Kia Na Nok Bay, the latter is where the Paradee is situated.
Most Samet hoteliers are justly annoyed with the Forestry Department for doing nothing to keep the island clean, as they seem keen enough on collecting admission fees from tourists.
Samet also has no paved roads, except for short stretches built by the resorts themselves. But hoteliers are of two minds about demanding proper roads on the island.
"We want to keep the road like this. If the roads are better people will drive faster and cause more accidents," said Narathip Settakarn, manager of Jep's Bungalows, one of the first backpacker hangouts on Samet that has been operating for more than 20 years.
While Jep's Bungalows has raised its rates from 200 baht (5.33 dollars) a night for a bamboo hut with a candle 20 years ago to 1,500 baht (40 dollars) a night now for a room with air conditioning, satellite TV and phone, the management has no intention of going much further upmarket.
"Jep's Bungalows started out with backpackers so we can't think of throwing out our old customers. But the backpackers have gotten wealthier so we can charge a bit more," said Narathip.
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