A Journey to Sukhothai

After changing our names Ms. AC and I decided we'd take another road trip. This time we headed to Sukhothai. It's a long way from Korat, but we were determined to get there in one day. AC's sciatica acted up a bit and we nearly ran out of fuel, but we made it.

Here's the route map:

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We headed north out of Korat to Khon Khaen and then turned left and drove through Nam Yen National Park and on to Sukhothai.

We nearly ran out of fuel after making a wrong turn on to a new bypass.

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Fortunately we were able to purchase a few liters at this rural filling station.

We stayed at the Orchid Hibiscus Guest House which is just on the edge of the Old Sukhothai Historical Park:

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The orchids are indeed lovely.

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We had fun watching this older American chap enjoy his breakfast.

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He was dining with this hot Chinese chick who enjoyed her toast, coconut pudding, wild bee honeycomb and hot coffee,

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The garden is quite lovely and we got some great ideas for our new house.

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Our first morning we got up early to see the sunrise...

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at Wat Sapphan Hin. Sadly, it was overcast so there wasn't much of a sunrise.

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But, this old Buddha image looks pretty good in the morning light.

This thread is hilarious :)

Love the pic of that yankee bastard :)

We ran into this old American dude at the bike rental shop:

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We took lots of photos of Wat Mahatat:

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Ms. AC pays her respects.

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It's amazing how much detail remains of this small Buddha image and dancers.

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The detail on this lintel is also striking.

Wat Mahathat is a huge complex full of many Buddha images:

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Note the double sema stones indicating a royal wat.

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Wat Mahathat reflected.

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Incredibly bold vistas at Wat Mahathat.

Next up: Wat Si Sawai

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MeMock

This thread is hilarious

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Great thread.

But I am worried about that silly yank that keeps following you around, AC
I would watch him very carefully, he might have taken a fancy to your wife.

I loved Sukothai.
It was one of my first exploration journies after arriving here.
I traveled alone and used the trains and buses to make my way north to Chiang Mai, stopping wherever I felt like and taking detours at whim.
About 40km north of Sukothai is Si Satchanalia an even older ruined city complex that has only partially been uncovered.
It was my stop after Sukothai.

Watch that stalker...he could be deadly!!

My first Loy Krathong was in Sukhothai! Considering that it is a rather small, rural province, they put on quite a show.

Nice pics AC! I'll be back up there around new years for my wife's niece's wedding.

I just looked at this thread, and thought I was experiencing déjà vu. I thought I must have posted my pictures from the trip Thai Wife and I took to Sukhothai last month, and had forgotten. Or, maybe I had changed my TD member handle.

The uncanny thing is that we stayed at the same Orchid Hibiscus Guest House, and have nearly identical photos. I thought the Italian owner was really a hoot. We truly enjoyed the place.

Thanks AC, now I don't have to post my trip with pics. I of course will contribute if I think there's anything interesting to add, but you've done an excellent job already.

^ Did you have this weird guy following you aswell :)

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Interesting pictures AC, I've got this one on my wall I remember buying it off a disabled artist from Sukhothai I think it looks like the one in your picture.

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Originally Posted by dirtydog

^ Did you have this weird guy following you aswell :)

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No, but there was this gal following me everywhere I went. Here, I covertly snapped a shot of her looking at me from a bridge at Wat Traphang Ngoen.

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Seeing a picture of that weird Farang though, reminds me that I nearly ran over a few of them on their bikes. You know us 'mericans and driving on the left.:cool: If he followed me, he was a couple weeks behind.

What happen to the story? Nothing have happend for far to many days when you are as impatient as I am :(

Thanks for sharing your pictures.
Now i know were we are going for our next road trip.

Nice pics.
We were there last week and took some similar pics.
That guest house looks nice. We stayed at a hotel on the river in Tak which was OK but not as pleasant as your guest house.
There are two hotels in Tak with the same name, by the way, except one is on the river and one isn't. How's that for a plot to fool tourists? TIT!:)
The Sukothai Historical Park is actually better than the Ayutthaya historical park in my opinion.:cool:
I think I drove the same bypass as you.
Isn't it great the way the highway cops are just totally uninterested in you unless you do something really stupid. We were doing 120 at one stage in the Vios and this blue Porsche just went ZOOM! past at some absolutely ridiculous speed just as we were passing a parked highway patrol Honda Accord and he didn't show the slightest interest in the speeding Porsche. Two motorcyclists (I think on Ducatis) did a similar thing south of Chiang Mai. One of my companions reckons Thailand could be one of the few countries in the world where there is actually any point in buying a sueprcar, cause you could actually drive it fast.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bruce

One of my companions reckons Thailand could be one of the few countries in the world where there is actually any point in buying a sueprcar, cause you could actually drive it fast.

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Until you discover a dirty great big pot hole in the road !!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RandomChances

Until you discover a dirty great big pot hole in the road !!

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I get my wheels straightened and rebalanced about every six months.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dirtydog

I get my wheels straightened and rebalanced about every six months.

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Yea then you can imagine how often people with real sports cars have to do it:o

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RandomChances

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bruce

One of my companions reckons Thailand could be one of the few countries in the world where there is actually any point in buying a sueprcar, cause you could actually drive it fast.

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Until you discover a dirty great big pot hole in the road !!

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And that's exactly the reason why I think it's much better to drive a supercar in Germany.

You don't see that many super sports cars in Thailand. Actually I remember just one Ferrari on the motorway. He couldn't drive that fast though because a police car had to mayke way for him.

Back to AC's photos....

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Lopburi style towers. Possibly a Brahman temple before being converted to Buddhist.

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Wat Si Sawai

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Wat Traphang Nguen - Situated on an island in the middle of a large pond.

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Reflection from Wat Traphang Nguen

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Wat Traphang Nguen

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Chedi from Wat Traphang Nguen

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Buddha image at Wat Sai Si.

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Wat Sai Si - Ceylonese style round chedi. The wat is surrounded by a large pond.

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Bridge to Wat Sai Si.

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Although the "Walking Buddha" gesture is rather rare, there are many to be seen in and around old Sukhothai.

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Wat Sai Si from the edge of the pond.

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Replica of King Ramkamhaeng's Inscription which was inscribed by the King in the 13th century and marks the earliest known written Thai. (Maybe.)

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Third king of the Sukhothai kingdom. Credited with creating the Thai writing system and of firmly establishing Buddhism among his people.

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Wat Chanasongkham. The mountain in the background is said to resemble a reclining Buddha.

Net up: Wat Sorasak

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Wat Sorasak

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Elephants support the bell-shaped chedi. Built during the period when Ayutthaya controlled Sukhothai.

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Wat Mae Chon

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Wat Mae Chon

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Wat Mae Chon - Remains of reclining Buddha

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Wat Mae Chon

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Wat Phra Phai Luang - Located outside the city walls. May have been the center of Sukhothai during the Khmer Angkor period (prior to the 13th century).

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Hot Chinese chick peddling around Wat Phra Phai Luang

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Wat Si Chum - The Buddha Image is called Phra Ajana. The image is housed in a Mandapa that includes a tunnel leading to the upper part of the roof.

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Wat Si Chum

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Wat Chetuphon - Classic Sukhothai style walking Buddha. Note the graceful pose.

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Wat Chetuphon

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Remains of stuccoed Buddha Image at Wat Chetuphon

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Wat Chetuphon - These unusual slate walls are carved as if they were wood.

Next up: Wat Ton Chan

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Wat Ton Chan - Brick chedi with niches for Buddha images.

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Wat Ton Chan - Votive Tablets (Sanaechan)

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Chedi at Wat Ton Chan

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Stucco Buddha image at Wat Ton Chan

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Wat Chang Lom - "Chang Lom" means "encircled by elephants". 36 in this case.

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Wat Chang Lom

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Wat Chang Lom

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Someone is building this draft kiln near Wat Chang Lom. It is smaller than, but works the same as the kilns used to make the famous Sukhothai-style ceramics.

Driving in the lower North was a motoring experience like none other that I've had in Thailand. I'm used to the "me first" drivers in urban areas like Korat and Bangkok; drivers who are assertive, aggressive and who demand the right of way no matter what the situation. The drivers of the lower North are more "me only". They drive as if theirs was the only vehicle on the road. Motorcyclists center themselves in the middle of the lane and will not budge for any other vehicle; not matter how large, loud or dangerous. All the farmers seem to have 1.5 liter Izusu pickup trucks that have been specially modified to have a top speed of about 60 KPH. On a dual carriage-way road they tend to straddle the lane line; instantly reducing the highway to one lane in each direction.

The people of the lower North seem to have a distorted sense of distance. At one point we found ourselves on a new bypass road just outside of old Sukhothai when I noticed the fuel gauge flashing on empty. The road was devoid of road signs, filling stations or other indications of modern civilization. We finally found a motorcyclist stopped by the side of the road. We asked about a petrol station and she replied that sure, there was one just up the road and very close indeed. After driving 10K with not a station in sight we panicked and found the little place pictured in the first photo of this thread.

A few days later we were looking for a certain cave. We'd seen a sign in town which indicated to us that the cave was nearby. We followed the sign's arrow for a long way, but lost sight of signs and never found the cave. We asked a couple of young ladies who told us that the cave was very close. Just head down to the four way intersection and turn right. The four way intersection turned out to be nearly 10K down the road. Upon arrival there we found a sign indicating that the cave was another 13K. Now, perhaps on a global scale 23K is not far, but to a couple of tourists looking for nearby attractions, it seemed other than "close".

The signs in and around old Sukhothai are enormously confusing. At one point we were looking for some wat or other and came to a fork in the road. Sure enough, two signs to the wat were posted; one indicating the left fork and the other indicating the right. Sometimes you'll spot a sign pointing the way to an attraction only to discover that the signs end with no further hints on just where to go or whether or not a turn is necessary. At other times you'll encounter long stretches of highway with no signs anywhere, including at big intersections.

The Sukhothai Historical Park is equally lacking in signs. The largest "feature" of the park is Wat Mahathat, which has four entrances. Only one of these entrances is has a sign and, unfortunately, this is not the first entrance you encounter after you leave the main park entry kiosk. It took us quite a bit of wandering before we discovered that we were actually within the confines of this fine old complex.

The tourist maps we were given were equally confusing. We got one from our hotel and one from the bicycle rental company. These hand drawn maps were both inaccurate and in conflict with each other; sometimes placing wats and other structures in entirely the wrong spot.

In summary, an up-to-date, accurate and detailed map of the area is essential. Unless, of course, you have as much fun as we did driving aimlessly around the city both lost and bemused.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Anonymous Coward

The drivers of the lower North are more "me only". They drive as if theirs was the only vehicle on the road. Motorcyclists center themselves in the middle of the lane and will not budge for any other vehicle; not matter how large, loud or dangerous. All the farmers seem to have 1.5 liter Izusu pickup trucks that have been specially modified to have a top speed of about 60 KPH.

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You should have called in while you were in the area, the bike was probably me, sorry about that.

Si Satchanalai Historical Park is just an hour's drive north of Old Sukhothai and well worth the trip. While Old Sukhothai is full of and surrounded by commercial enterprise Si Satchanalai is an enormously pleasant park containing numerous historical structures and almost nothing else. On the morning we visited, we were the only ones there.

As we approached the park we noticed a huge stupa in the jungle. As we rounded a curve we saw a sign, but no place to park. I pulled the car as far off the road as possible and in we hiked to

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Wat Sa Kaeo

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There is this crumbling chedi with a lotus bud tower.

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A little further on is wat Khao Yai.

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Wat Khao Yai

Inside the park proper the first wat you see is

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Wat Chang Lom. This means "wat encircled by elephants".

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There are some real elephants to be fed as well. I note that they do not peel the bananas before eating.

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Wat Chang Lom was built by King RamKhamhaeng in the late 13th century.

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It is better preserved than the wat of the same name in Old Sukhothai.

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The wat has many Buddha images in niches like this.

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View of the remains of the wat's vihan from the chedi. Looking southwest.

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It appears that the elephant figures were made from laterite blocks covered with stucco.

Next up: Wat Chedi Jet Thaew

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Wat Chedi Jet Thaew - This wat has seven chedi one of which includes this beautiful image of Buddha seated on a coiled cobra.

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Wat Chedi Jet Thaew

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Wat Chedi Jet Thaew

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Wat Kuti Rai - This monastery wat is located just outside the city wall at the north gate.

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The city wall is in very good shape.

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Fishermen at the Khaeng Luang Rapids.

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- A monastery outside the city walls.

Just southeast of Si Satchanalai is the ancient area of Chailiang.

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Wat Chao Chan - Ancient Khmer architectural style wat.

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Remains of a standing Buddha at Wat Chao Chan

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Wat Chom Chuen - Contains a Ceylonese chedi and mondop and now-roofless wihan (sanctuary).

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Wat Mahathat - The full name is Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat. Contains a large laterite chedi between two wihan.

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Small chedi at Wat Mahathat with Buddha image seated on a cobra.

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Wat Mahathat - Seated Sukhothai-style Buddha image.

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Graceful walking Buddha at Wat Mahathat.

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Two seated Buddha images in slightly different styles at Wat Mahathat. The one behind is pre-Sukhothai style. Note the fuller, square face. The Sukhothai Buddha image has an oval face and slender, sinuous body and the characteristic flame replacing the topknot on the head.

On the way back to old Sukhothai we stopped at new Sukhothai to see the Phra Mae Ya Shrine. This shrine is supposed to have built by King Ramkhamhaeng as a dedication to his mother.

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Phra Mae Ya Shrine

Next up: Phitsanulok

On the way back to Korat we stopped off in Phitsanulok for a night.

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First stop was Wat Yai, AKA Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat or Wat Phra Si. The Ms. makes merit.

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This is the famous Chinnarat Buddha Image. Note the unusual flame-like halo around the head and body which transforms into dragon or naga heads on each side.

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Two images of Hotei. This deity of contentment and abundance represents the Maitreya or "future Buddha" who will some day appear on Earth.

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They're doing some archaeological work on the old wihan at Wat Yai.

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Wat Nang Phaya - Note that the Buddha image is copied after the Chinnarat Buddha.

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Wat Ratchaburana - When we visited this wat there were a bunch of school kids. Here they pay close attention to their tour guide. Note the Sukhothai style columns with their lotus bud capitals.

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Wat Ratchaburana - I'm sure the school kids were just as fascinated as I was by the collection of old stuff on hand.

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Wat Ratchaburana - The chedi in the background is all that's left of the original wat. The other structures are relatively recent.

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Nice wall mural at Wat Rachaburana.

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The Mae Nam Nan (Nan River) runs through Phitsanulok. There are lots of houseboats, some floating restaurants and a nice promenade with shops, pubs and restaurants.

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A few K south of town is Wat Chulamani, the oldest in the province.

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Buddha footprint at Wat Chulamani.

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Wat Chulamani - Khmer-style lintel with walking Buddha.

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Happy hour at sunset on the river.

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The last beer. Well, almost the last beer.

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Lighted bridge on the Nan River.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Curious George

... and have nearly identical photos....

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You have some outstanding photos, and I only have a couple that could compare (need to keep that self-image, you know). You're doing a supurb job of documenting your trip.

Nearly following in our footsteps, we also stopped here. It is of special interest to Thai Wife, since we have a replica of the Chinnarat Buddha Image in our home.
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Thanks for a great photojournalizing!

Great pictures. I wish i had taken a similar number of photos when I last went to Sukhothai