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how you install a suspended ceiling when you have long sheets of plaster ? do you attach the metal structure to the sheets of plaster first ? and then raise the ceiling ?
surely you will not drill holes every 30cm to hold the metal structure ? how they do it ?
:chitown: Im looking forward to this one.
Scaffolding
YouTube - Hanging drywall on ceiling w/ one man
Clever.
^They also have jacks that lift drywall into place, but that might be cost-prohibited for a small project.
yeah he is drilling, but apparently not in Thailand :)
Check out some of the older threads on house construction.
1. Frame out the ceiling with T bars
2. Screw the plaster board to the T bars with the correct screws
3. Tape all joints with plastering tape
4. Screed over with all joints and screws with plaster and sand smooth
Done!
But its a pain in the arse job to get looking right if its not what you do for a living
^ can't be that hard if a woman is doing it.... :bunny3:
I watched them do mine,and they use self-drilling screws through the plaster board into the metal strips. The roof tiles are also fastened on with similar screws. These are available from the local builders yard.
Best is to go to a Home Mart and ask if they sell the supplies, they will say yes, then tell them where you live and want the work done, and to send a crew and the materials and you will be back later to pay them when the job is finished.
See how simple it is to do things here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Butterfly
must be those imported anti-gravity boards then BF, very expensive
I have those exact same T bars for my service trap, I didn't see in the video what tool they use to cut them, it seems very easy to cut, but when I do it not so easy, the hacksaw seems to be too strong for those, they bend easily and I have nothing to hold them
my ceiling is in long sheets, the T bars are hidden, that's what I meant by how they are doing it. There is no trace of drills or any tape on the surface. Surely it's not a Thai unique expertise :bunny3:
that's the only explanation I see, since they seem to have "nailed" the ceiling to the screws in the metal structure.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrAndy
Shouldn't there be a patent for that ? :bunny3:
what do you mean correct ? aren't they all correct ?Quote:
Originally Posted by skidley
If that's what they did, then they did a fantastic job because it's completely invisible as the structure is spaced 30cm for each bar and I can see the screw on the other side but not on the ceiling. But I doubt that, as holes that were patched and fixed can be seen when you look close enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by skidley
^I'm pretty sure that's what they do.
^ I don't see any other explanation, but we can only hope this is maybe a hidden Thai way to do it :bunny3:
The correct screws are 1/2 inch Drywall screws, the Aluminum is cut with scissors, and the screw holes flled the and seams are taped and and sanded.Quote:
what do you mean correct ? aren't they all correct ?
The same screws are used thruout the whole job, on the aluminum as well as with the sheetrock.
Magic screws, eh? I thought they used self tapping screws. :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by crippen
I have a box of self drilling ones that I bought to use when I insulated my smoker.
what is plaster tape ? and what does it mean exactly ? can they be use to fill out gaps ? and you just sand it and paint above ?
For a seamless plaster ceiling
Layout Prep: run a level mark around the room 20 mm above finish height and attach a 20mm aluminum angle to the wall with nails or screws at this line.
1. Twist lock 1/8" steel hanger rods from rafters or battens at 60 cm centers
2. attach spring clips and "j" rods approximately at finished ceiling height to these hangers.
3. cut excess hanger rods off leaving 20cm extra (to be folded up prior to fitting boards.
4. install U channel long axis up (runners) through the j rods and level
5. attach U channel long axis sideways (battens) using ear clips then bend them over the runners at 40 cm centers
6. install any wiring or insulation at this point
7. lift, glue (acrylic sealant will do) and screw the sheets off to the battens with DRYWALL screws (they are Phillips head, black steel with very sharp points and will penetrate the U channels but are not what is referred to as selfdrilling and available in 1/2" or 3/4" for double sheet extended fireproofing installations)
8. taping and finishing the joints to western standards requires a great deal of skill or if this is not available, a great deal of sanding.
No base coats are available in Thailand, they sell only finish plaster (poe ypsum), generally 30 mm cloth tape is available, although lately I see 50 mm self adhesive fibre mesh tape
All this stuff is available in hardware stores.
We have a mechanical drywall panel lifter for rent in or around Rayong province ONLY or you can use 4 cheap nongs, if you can tolerate the aggravation.
do you still have the panel lifter for hire? I tried to PM you but have less then 20 posts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by globin
If it's any help, pros don't use them. They are too slow. They buy or make a goodie to step up onto and stand on, and then two guy do that and screw them into place.
You do know you need a special drill bit that controls the depth of the screw so it will tighten without going right through the drywall? If you break the paper, you need another screw right beside it.
LINK
https://teakdoor.com/images/imported/2014/07/3062.jpg
I just tried to install Suspended Ceiling. Something must be up with it.
Firstly I had an application conflict
https://teakdoor.com/images/smilies1/You_Rock_Emoticon.gif
Finally worked out I had an old version of Rusty Pipes running and that was causing that problem. Replaced that but then getting close to full installation, it crashed.
https://teakdoor.com/images/smilies1/You_Rock_Emoticon.gif
I asked a bloke I know who knows about these things and he said that I was running 32 bit, but had tried to install 64 bit suspended ceiling - over loaded it basically.
Finally got it all sorted out, but then I have a bigger problem.
https://teakdoor.com/images/imported/2014/07/3064.jpg
Blue Suspended ceiling of DEATH.
So I finally said Stuff This Shit and changed products.
https://teakdoor.com/images/smilies1/You_Rock_Emoticon.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by pseudolus
In addition to the 64 bit, you need more RAM.
https://teakdoor.com/images/imported/2014/07/3066.jpg
That was my last resort knocking something up, I brought 6 of those drill bits back from aussie only 60bht a pop. I also used the homemart 'plusline' furring chanels with the spring clips/hanging wire, the staff had no idea what i was on about, I dont think they even know whats on their website. had to order it in but a massive difference from the thin stuff they sell in all the shops.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBaker
I don't know how to embed a YouTube vid., but this guy is correct and succinct in 3 short vids about taping and mudding drywall. I've never seen the tape wetted before and it isn't necessary.
He doesn't show how to cover just a screw. That is done with a 6" knife by pulling mud down over the screw for a very short distance, and then turning the knife sideways and scraping off the excess. Once and dry and then a second time because the mud shrinks as it dries.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2uFK8OGV2UM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuSbF5GVK-M
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58KrW-JZrZU