Malaysia’s 24-hour eateries urged to cut hours to tackle obesity concerns
KUALA LUMPUR: Mr Abdul Mukthahir Ibrahim runs four mamak eateries in the town of Bukit Beruntong, Selangor. Two of his branches operate 24 hours while the other two are open 20 hours every day.
The 62-year-old is riled up, he tells CNA, from having to hear repeatedly how the food he and other mamak restaurateurs serve is unhealthy, especially since many of these Indian Muslim establishments are available and accessible to everyone, around the clock.
“What is healthy is home-made food. But if you don’t have the time and capacity to cook, you can rely on mamak food, which is cooked right in front of you. We don’t serve frozen foods which have preservatives,” said Mr Mukthahir.
In discussions about the rising obesity rate of Malaysians, mamak restaurants especially have come under the spotlight as a possible contributor to widening waistlines, due partly to their long hours.
Recently, the Consumers Association of Penang (CAP) weighed in on the issue, with a call for mamak restaurants such as those run by Mr Mukthahir, and other 24-hour eateries, to no longer be able to operate after midnight.
CAP president Mohideen Abdul Kader had said in a statement on Apr 22 that the authorities should repeal the 24-hour operating license given to eateries as studies showed that there are negative effects of late-night meals such as weight gain, sleep disorders and digestive issues.
Mr Mohideen quoted the National Health and Morbidity Survey 2019 which found that 30.4 per cent of Malaysians were overweight and 19.7 per cent were obese.
He said that obesity was a risk factor for non-communicable diseases (NCDs) like type 2 diabetes, cardiovascular disease and cancer, with RM9.65 billion (US$2.2 billion) spent annually to deal with NCDs.
He added that all food outlets should be closed by midnight rather than be allowed to operate 24 hours a day.
“Even though shortening the operating hours for eateries would not completely solve the obesity issue in Malaysia, it would help reduce late-night eating among Malaysians,” said Mr Mohideen, echoing a call that has been repeatedly made by the organisation over the years.
Health Minister Dzulkefly Ahmad said CAP’s proposal would be refined, with plans to hold an engagement session with all stakeholders so that the issue can be resolved comprehensively with recommendations for a clear solution and outcome.
“The proposal paper will be prepared for scrutiny and further action by the Health Ministry and government,” he was quoted as saying by Bernama.
According to a report by the News Straits Times, the government had come up with a proposal in 2017 to limit the opening times of eateries to midnight as part of a policy to promote healthy living. It isn’t clear what happened to the proposal.
Dr Dzulkefly however noted that frontline workers such as the police, firefighters, doctors, nurses and security personnel depended on the services of 24-hour restaurants.
“By stopping services in bulk, it will cause difficulties for them,” he said.
In Malaysia, most of the eateries that operate for 24 hours are the mamak restaurants, alongside several branches of fast-food chains such as McDonalds and Kentucky Fried Chicken (KFC).
During the early hours of the morning, Mr Mukthahir’s mamak shop is frequented primarily by workers from the town's 24-hour factories in the industrial park.
“They come here before or after work, depending on their shift. We accommodate that. I am not saying that we are only providing a service ... we are of course making a profit at the same time,” he said.
Mamak restaurants are considered by many as one of the cornerstones of Malaysian cuisine, selling a variety of food at any time of the day in a casual setting and at relatively affordable prices.
Malaysian favourites such as roti canai, nasi lemak, and mee goreng are among their staples. Many these days even serve Western and Thai food as well.
These eateries are usually found in city-centres, near colleges and universities, as well as transportation hubs. They have become a popular gathering spot to watch late-night live football games, with some of the major matches shown on big screens.
Malaysian Muslim Restaurant Owners Association (Presma) president Jawahar Ali Taib Khan told CNA that these qualities help make mamak restaurants a part of the country’s culture.
“People don’t only go to the mamak restaurants to eat and drink but to socialise because of their conduciveness and ease of access,” he said, adding that the eateries provided spaces for people to have discussions at any time of the day.
He said that there were about 12,000 mamak restaurants all over the country, with about half of them operating 24 hours.
He also denied suggestions that the 24-hour eateries are responsible for health issues in the country, saying that other factors such as an individual’s lifestyle practices were also a factor.
Mr Jawahar, however, said that they were ready to accept all opinions and suggestions and were ready to discuss the issue with CAP and the Health Ministry.
University student M. Kharan, 24, told CNA that he was at a mamak after midnight almost every other day as it was the most convenient place for him to purchase food at odd hours.
He also said that the Mamak eateries were the best place to “chill” or watch sports matches with his friends as the prices were much more affordable for a student like him than a bar or pub.
‘There is also a lot of variety of food,” he added.
PART OF THE ECONOMY
Mamaks have an ally in Kepong MP Lim Lip Eng who waded into the debate by saying that curbing their hours would restrict food choices and diminish Malaysia's reputation as a food paradise.
"These eateries play a vital role in Malaysia's economy by providing employment opportunities and generating revenue through food sales and tourism," he said in a statement on Apr 24.
Mr Lim also claimed that banning 24-hour eateries would lead to job losses and reduced economic activity.
"Additionally, these eateries offer convenience and accessibility to individuals with diverse schedules, including late-shift workers, travellers arriving at unconventional hours, and those with non-traditional lifestyles.
"Furthermore, late-night eateries serve as important social venues where friends and family members can gather after work or during weekends to enjoy meals and bond," he said.
Mr Mukthahir – the owner of four restaurants in Bukit Beruntong – said that mamaks were not a standalone business and that a number of micro, small and medium industries also depended on their survival.
This included suppliers of poultry, seafood, vegetables, groceries, noodles, gas, and ice cubes among others, he said.
He claimed that these industries would have to lay off workers if the operation times of mamak restaurants were to be restricted.
“If restaurants are affected, these industries are also affected. Restaurants are also the biggest contributors in income tax. The more business they generate the more they contribute to the economy in terms of taxes,” he said.
He also said that mamak restaurants were important for tourism as they operated for 24 hours at tourist spots and at transportation hubs.
“Malaysia is known as a food haven where you can get a variety of foods from the different communities.
“Even the Tourism Ministry has approached our association to collaborate and to work on something together to attract tourists and compete with Thailand which is thriving in Southeast Asia as a popular food destination,” he said.
Alfred Chok, 26, a Muay Thai trainer said that there was a need for some eateries to be open 24 hours to cater to those working in the early hours of the morning.
“If you have a midnight shift, it might be difficult to get any food and some people might not have time to cook,” he said, adding that individuals had the choice to opt for healthier options such as tandoori chicken and naan bread over other unhealthier foods.
For lorry driver Mohd Kamal Ikram, 24-hour eateries, especially mamak restaurants, were important for those who needed to keep themselves awake on the road.
He said that as someone who worked during the early hours of the morning at times, mamak restaurants were his preferred stop if he felt sleepy.
“I prefer to eat and drink at home to save money as even mamak restaurants are not exactly cheap these days, but they are convenient at times for a quick bite and coffee when you can’t keep your eyes open,” he said.
HEALTH CONCERNS SURROUNDING AN EMBEDDED CULTURE
But while CAP’s suggestions might not get everyone’s support, their concerns about the rising health issues and late-night eating are valid, according to Diabetes Society of Malaysia president Dr Ikram Shah.
“We agree with CAP. Late night eating isn’t healthy and could lead to obesity and other diseases in the long run. No other countries have this sort of arrangement,” he said.
He pointed out that the prevalence of diabetes in the country is rising all the time and one of the factors behind it was unhealthy eating habits.
According to Malaysia’s National Health and Morbidity Survey (NHMS) – conducted every four years – diabetes sufferers increased from 11.2 per cent of the population in 2011 to 13.4 per cent in 2015 and to 18.3 per cent in 2019.
Dr Ikram, however, said that these eateries were supplying a need and that it wouldn’t be easy to stop them from operating for 24 hours.
“There must be some alternative. I don’t know what the Health Ministry is coming up with, but it will be tough as there are livelihoods also at stake,” he said.
Mr Kharan – the student – echoed the sentiments of Dr Ikram and believed that it would be very difficult for the authorities to regulate the timing of these eateries.
“It’s already embedded in our culture and even in our bloodstream,” he said with a laugh.
Malaysia’s 24-hour eateries urged to cut hours to tackle obesity concerns, but locals lack appetite for change - CNA
