^
Na, a full pad replacement, and springs, and clips, and disk/drum resurfacing, and cable renewal ....
Will be "recommended".
^
Na, a full pad replacement, and springs, and clips, and disk/drum resurfacing, and cable renewal ....
Will be "recommended".
^ Yeah well, you didn't pick a high place for your house a few years ago, did you ?
Not only in Bkk are no hills but also in most of Thailand where the hand brake is to be engaged.
Whenever my pickup (autom. gear) is used by Thai people I have to repeat them again, no need to touch the hand brake - however, to no avail.
Anybody tried to move a car with an engaged gear?
And forgetting to engage in a manual gear? But not forgetting the hand brake?
As a general rule I have learnt a century ago: when pulling everyday the hand brake, how the long string led under the car will suffer after years when you will really need it?
Or you can do like I did and install Fortuner rear disc brake set up and dump the drum brakes all together. Then when you go have your truck serviced watch the look on the Service techs faces when they yank the rear wheel and they scratch their heads. It usually draws a crowd quickly for which I just laugh.
My truck is out of warranty now so I do all the work myself but first 3 or 4 times were some good laughs
You do not use oil or grease anywhere on your brakes, if it gets on the brake pads it permanently stops them from working properly and you have to replace the pads with new ones
You use special brake cleaning fluid that comes in a pressurized spray can which is made to clean and free your brakes up and does not effect the braking power if it gets on the brake pads
yes, and no ... ^
Whether you have an older vehicle that uses drum brakes, a newer vehicle that uses them for cost-efficiency, or a smaller vehicle like an ATV, there are few key places that need lubrication. Here are a few helpful hints that will help you lubricate your drum brakes properly.
- Don't ever put lubricant on the inside of the drum where the shoes/pads contact the drum. This will cause the brakes to stop working, and could be very dangerous.
- Use lubricant on the backing plate. You'll find small ridges where the shoe rests; these can be sanded lightly with a grinding wheel, and then lubricated.
- The adjustable star-wheel that separates the shoes can be prone to freezing, so it should be lubricated.
- The parking brake usually uses the rear drum brakes in your car, so lubricate the parking brake cable and any linkages or moving parts.
- Make sure you lubricate the separator located about halfway up the shoe.
- Use lubricant anywhere you find metal-to-metal contact between moving parts, such as where the shoes slide.
- Don't use dry film lubricant where the lube might contact rubber or plastic seals.
- Don't overlubricate -- you don't want excess lubricant dripping into places it shouldn't go.
The red is what I would try, after a good cleaning.
I use mine all the time. The only time I don't is if I leave the car out in the German winter. The ice will often cause the pb to stick on.
Both cars are auto and both have electronic pb. The Jag auto releases when you drive off but the Mitsu doesn't, which caught me out a couple of times.
One of my gripes of the modern day is people having their foot on the brake at traffic lights at night. Lazy buggers blinding the driver behind for no good reason.
^^ Did little broke lonely man find a typo?
One good reason to utilise the parking brake.
How, in an automatic, when waiting a traffic lights on an incline, do you stop rolling backwards?
If you suggest, moving your foot from accelerator to brake pedal, what is the procedure when you pull away?
Does your automatic gearbox hold the cars position itself?
Or select park/neutral, via the button/stick, manually?
If you suggest, moving your foot from the brake pedal to the accelerator, does your car move backwards/forwards?
"From a person who has only owned one car with an automatic gearbox, an Audi 4S
with a Multitronic CVT box, which in my opinion was the best gearbox type I've ever had"
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multitronic
I imagine it's similar to an electric car feel, constant acceleration until top speed is reached. I never missed the de-acceleration phase during changing gears, as on manual gearboxes, at all.
Last edited by OhOh; 31-10-2019 at 08:24 PM.
A tray full of GOLD is not worth a moment in time.
You never use grease and its not recommended to use oil to lubricate the brake mechanism or the handbrake cable
Buy a can of CRC which has a small tube taped to the side of it,insert the tube into the spray nozzle and spray a very small amount directly on the part that will not move, it penetrates the rust, waterproofs and lubricates it and will free it up if its not to badly rusted, if badly rusted you need to take the part of and clean it up or replace it with a new part which is what i would do
Same with the handbrake cable if its sticking,spray CRC into the end of the inner and outer cable and on all of the moving joints and it should fix the problem, if not buy a new handbrake cable
Better still if you have no mechanical experience take the vehicle to a workshop and let them do it, its not expensive in Thailand and that's what i would do, its not Australia where you can be a very long way from a workshop and have to fix it yourself or pay someone to come out and do it for you which can be very expensive
You should not have a problem with a handbrake on a vehicle ( Toyota duel cab 4x4) when its only done 27,000 KM and only been driven on the road except for about 100 KM on farm tracks and never though water, Which you should be able to do without any problems it its fresh water, they do it all the time in northern Australia and i have done it myself in a NIssan Patrol when on a round Australia holiday and had logged 160,000KM and i never had any problems with the brakes
Last edited by petercallen; 01-11-2019 at 09:43 AM.
There is no corrosion/Rust on the brakes, i checked that at Toyota when they removed the wheels and brake drums and they look in perfect condition
And brake dust should not cause brakes to jam on as someone suggested, there is always dust from the brake shoes wearing
And brakes should not jam on in a 2017 Toyota that has only done 27k KM, the vehicle is still nearly new
Thee was a small rust stain(not rust) on the end of one axle where the brake drum fits on and wheel is attached to it, which is nothing to do with the brake mechanism
I never said the problem was due to manually or automatically adjusting brakes , i suggest you read my posts and others again and get your facts straight sport
Peter,
Couple of questions,
So you have the typical handbrake lever in-between the center console and the drivers seat as mine is ( I have a 2016 Revo). When you pull it up can you physically release the lever down?
If you can, are you saying that the brakes are still engaged after the lever is down or you cannot even release the lever?
If the lever goes down but brakes are still engaged, I suspect the inner spring that is on the release actuator in the brake drum is binding up. While not common is does happen especially if its out of adjustment and one pulls the lever to far up.
If the lever inside the truck will not go down once pulled up then it would suggest that the cable is binding up inside the outer sheath that protects it.
Anyway, my 2 baht worth.
[QUOTE=JPPR2;4020268]Peter,
Couple of questions,
So you have the typical handbrake lever in-between the center console and the drivers seat as mine is ( I have a 2016 Revo). When you pull it up can you physically release the lever down?
If you can, are you saying that the brakes are still engaged after the lever is down or you cannot even release the lever?
If the lever goes down but brakes are still engaged, I suspect the inner spring that is on the release actuator in the brake drum is binding up. While not common is does happen especially if its out of adjustment and one pulls the lever to far up.
If the lever inside the truck will not go down once pulled up then it would suggest that the cable is binding up inside the outer sheath that protects it.
Anyway, my 2 baht worth.
When you use your hand brake on a hilux you pull it up as far as you can go and release the button and it stops on and when you release it you pull it up as far as it goes push the HB button and release it and it goes of
When your brakes jam on when you try to release the handbrake the handle goes all the way up with no resistance until you feel pressure on the handle but when you push the button it does not release but stops locked on, if you pull the handle up a bit further it still does not release
The handle is lose and moves up and down with no back pressure because the brake linings are against the drums and the return springs are not strong enough to pull them back to the off position, they look strong enough in my opinion
Why this happens i do not have a clue but i have been reliably informed by someone who knows its a regular occurrence on on Toyota hilux
I have no interest in informing anyone who this person is as he is a honest Toyota employee
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