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  1. #26
    Thailand Expat OhOh's Avatar
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    ^

    Na, a full pad replacement, and springs, and clips, and disk/drum resurfacing, and cable renewal ....

    Will be "recommended".

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by petercallen View Post
    Do you ever find anywhere to park so that you need to use a handbrake in Bangkok
    Never as I clearly stated.

  3. #28
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    ^ Yeah well, you didn't pick a high place for your house a few years ago, did you ?

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Latindancer View Post
    ^ Yeah well, you didn't pick a high place for your house a few years ago, did you ?
    What the fuck is that supposed to mean? The land on my house is raised. In the floods only my kitchen and a bathroom suffered damage. Your point is what moron? The thread is about cars and parking breaks...

  5. #30
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    Not only in Bkk are no hills but also in most of Thailand where the hand brake is to be engaged.

    Whenever my pickup (autom. gear) is used by Thai people I have to repeat them again, no need to touch the hand brake - however, to no avail.

    Anybody tried to move a car with an engaged gear?

    And forgetting to engage in a manual gear? But not forgetting the hand brake?

    As a general rule I have learnt a century ago: when pulling everyday the hand brake, how the long string led under the car will suffer after years when you will really need it?

  6. #31
    CCBW Stumpy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aging one View Post
    Good point. I never engage mine in BKK
    There is a Hand brake on vehicles?....

  7. #32
    CCBW Stumpy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OhOh View Post
    ^

    Na, a full pad replacement, and springs, and clips, and disk/drum resurfacing, and cable renewal ....

    Will be "recommended".
    Or you can do like I did and install Fortuner rear disc brake set up and dump the drum brakes all together. Then when you go have your truck serviced watch the look on the Service techs faces when they yank the rear wheel and they scratch their heads. It usually draws a crowd quickly for which I just laugh.

    My truck is out of warranty now so I do all the work myself but first 3 or 4 times were some good laughs

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by VocalNeal View Post
    When the drums are off it will be found that a little grease is needed. Sorted?
    You do not use oil or grease anywhere on your brakes, if it gets on the brake pads it permanently stops them from working properly and you have to replace the pads with new ones
    You use special brake cleaning fluid that comes in a pressurized spray can which is made to clean and free your brakes up and does not effect the braking power if it gets on the brake pads

  9. #34
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    yes, and no ... ^

    Whether you have an older vehicle that uses drum brakes, a newer vehicle that uses them for cost-efficiency, or a smaller vehicle like an ATV, there are few key places that need lubrication. Here are a few helpful hints that will help you lubricate your drum brakes properly.

    • Don't ever put lubricant on the inside of the drum where the shoes/pads contact the drum. This will cause the brakes to stop working, and could be very dangerous.
    • Use lubricant on the backing plate. You'll find small ridges where the shoe rests; these can be sanded lightly with a grinding wheel, and then lubricated.
    • The adjustable star-wheel that separates the shoes can be prone to freezing, so it should be lubricated.
    • The parking brake usually uses the rear drum brakes in your car, so lubricate the parking brake cable and any linkages or moving parts.
    • Make sure you lubricate the separator located about halfway up the shoe.
    • Use lubricant anywhere you find metal-to-metal contact between moving parts, such as where the shoes slide.
    • Don't use dry film lubricant where the lube might contact rubber or plastic seals.
    • Don't overlubricate -- you don't want excess lubricant dripping into places it shouldn't go.


    The red is what I would try, after a good cleaning.

  10. #35
    Thailand Expat Airportwo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aging one View Post
    I never engage mine in BKK
    I never engage mine in UT, never forget to release it that way!

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by aging one View Post
    Your point is what moron? The thread is about cars and parking breaks...


  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Airportwo View Post
    I never engage mine in UT, never forget to release it that way!
    I use mine all the time. The only time I don't is if I leave the car out in the German winter. The ice will often cause the pb to stick on.

    Both cars are auto and both have electronic pb. The Jag auto releases when you drive off but the Mitsu doesn't, which caught me out a couple of times.

    One of my gripes of the modern day is people having their foot on the brake at traffic lights at night. Lazy buggers blinding the driver behind for no good reason.

  13. #38
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    ^^ Did little broke lonely man find a typo?

  14. #39
    Thailand Expat Fondles's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by petercallen View Post
    The brake shoes on all modern vehicles adjust automatically to the right clearance
    I do not think there is a vehicle manufactured now where you have to manually adjust the brake linings which is easy to do if necessary
    So how can they be to closely adjusted and were does the salt come from as we live at least 1 KM from the nearest beach
    And only visit the beach about once a fortnight and park approx 100 metres ( correct spelling English/English) from the beach front
    The issue is corrosion... nothing to do with manually/automatically adjusted brake shoes... nor is it a vehicle defect.

  15. #40
    Thailand Expat OhOh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Troy View Post
    Lazy buggers blinding the driver behind for no good reason.
    One good reason to utilise the parking brake.

    Quote Originally Posted by Airportwo View Post
    I never engage mine in UT, never forget to release it that way!
    How, in an automatic, when waiting a traffic lights on an incline, do you stop rolling backwards?

    If you suggest, moving your foot from accelerator to brake pedal, what is the procedure when you pull away?

    Does your automatic gearbox hold the cars position itself?

    Or select park/neutral, via the button/stick, manually?

    If you suggest, moving your foot from the brake pedal to the accelerator, does your car move backwards/forwards?

    "From a person who has only owned one car with an automatic gearbox, an Audi 4S



    with a Multitronic CVT box, which in my opinion was the best gearbox type I've ever had"

    handbrake on 2017 hilux not releasing-s-l1600-jpg

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multitronic

    I imagine it's similar to an electric car feel, constant acceleration until top speed is reached. I never missed the de-acceleration phase during changing gears, as on manual gearboxes, at all.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails handbrake on 2017 hilux not releasing-pivgetriebe-png   handbrake on 2017 hilux not releasing-aro7743-jpg  
    Last edited by OhOh; 31-10-2019 at 08:24 PM.
    A tray full of GOLD is not worth a moment in time.

  16. #41
    Thailand Expat Fondles's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OhOh View Post
    One good reason to utilise the parking brake.



    How, in an automatic, when waiting a traffic lights on an incline, do you stop rolling backwards?

    If you suggest, moving your foot from accelerator to brake pedal, what is the procedure when you pull away?

    Does your automatic gearbox hold the cars position itself?

    Or select park/neutral, via the button/stick, manually?

    If you suggest, moving your foot from the brake pedal to the accelerator, does your car move backwards/forwards?

    "From a person who has only owned one car with an automatic gearbox, an Audi 4 with a Multitronic CVT box, which in my opinion was the best gearbox type I've ever had"

    handbrake on 2017 hilux not releasing-s-l1600-jpg

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multitronic

    I imagine it's similar to an electric car feel, constant acceleration until top speed is reached. I never missed the de-acceleration phase during changing gears, as on manual gearboxes, at all.
    CVT's are shit.

    I left foot brake so not an issue at traffic lights on an incline with my auto pickup.

  17. #42
    Thailand Expat OhOh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fondles View Post
    CVT's are shit.
    My 1st wife's mother's DAF I agree.

    My company supplied and maintained, a 2 door coupe manual box and a 4 door Burgandy Multitronic CVT box saloon Audis were superb,

    a 2 door manual coupe



    and a 4 door Multitronic CVT saloon.
    Last edited by OhOh; 31-10-2019 at 08:27 PM.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by marcusb View Post
    yes, and no ... ^

    Whether you have an older vehicle that uses drum brakes, a newer vehicle that uses them for cost-efficiency, or a smaller vehicle like an ATV, there are few key places that need lubrication. Here are a few helpful hints that will help you lubricate your drum brakes properly.

    • Don't ever put lubricant on the inside of the drum where the shoes/pads contact the drum. This will cause the brakes to stop working, and could be very dangerous.
    • Use lubricant on the backing plate. You'll find small ridges where the shoe rests; these can be sanded lightly with a grinding wheel, and then lubricated.
    • The adjustable star-wheel that separates the shoes can be prone to freezing, so it should be lubricated.
    • The parking brake usually uses the rear drum brakes in your car, so lubricate the parking brake cable and any linkages or moving parts.
    • Make sure you lubricate the separator located about halfway up the shoe.
    • Use lubricant anywhere you find metal-to-metal contact between moving parts, such as where the shoes slide.
    • Don't use dry film lubricant where the lube might contact rubber or plastic seals.
    • Don't overlubricate -- you don't want excess lubricant dripping into places it shouldn't go.


    The red is what I would try, after a good cleaning.
    You never use grease and its not recommended to use oil to lubricate the brake mechanism or the handbrake cable

    Buy a can of CRC which has a small tube taped to the side of it,insert the tube into the spray nozzle and spray a very small amount directly on the part that will not move, it penetrates the rust, waterproofs and lubricates it and will free it up if its not to badly rusted, if badly rusted you need to take the part of and clean it up or replace it with a new part which is what i would do

    Same with the handbrake cable if its sticking,spray CRC into the end of the inner and outer cable and on all of the moving joints and it should fix the problem, if not buy a new handbrake cable

    Better still if you have no mechanical experience take the vehicle to a workshop and let them do it, its not expensive in Thailand and that's what i would do, its not Australia where you can be a very long way from a workshop and have to fix it yourself or pay someone to come out and do it for you which can be very expensive

    You should not have a problem with a handbrake on a vehicle ( Toyota duel cab 4x4) when its only done 27,000 KM and only been driven on the road except for about 100 KM on farm tracks and never though water, Which you should be able to do without any problems it its fresh water, they do it all the time in northern Australia and i have done it myself in a NIssan Patrol when on a round Australia holiday and had logged 160,000KM and i never had any problems with the brakes
    Last edited by petercallen; 01-11-2019 at 09:43 AM.

  19. #44
    Thailand Expat Airportwo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OhOh View Post
    How, in an automatic, when waiting a traffic lights on an incline, do you stop rolling backwards?

    If you suggest, moving your foot from accelerator to brake pedal, what is the procedure when you pull away?

    Does your automatic gearbox hold the cars position itself?
    My car has "adaptive braking" so no rolling on hills, can also apply "handbrake" at traffic lights etc by pressing brake pedal twice, it then goes into "hold" mode, when you accelerate it releases.

  20. #45
    Thailand Expat Fondles's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Airportwo View Post
    My car has "adaptive braking" so no rolling on hills, can also apply "handbrake" at traffic lights etc by pressing brake pedal twice, it then goes into "hold" mode, when you accelerate it releases.
    My old shitter back in Aus had hill start assist... very handy but a bit freaky when it lets go after a set amount of time so rarely ever relied on it

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fondles View Post
    The issue is corrosion... nothing to do with manually/automatically adjusted brake shoes... nor is it a vehicle defect.
    There is no corrosion/Rust on the brakes, i checked that at Toyota when they removed the wheels and brake drums and they look in perfect condition
    And brake dust should not cause brakes to jam on as someone suggested, there is always dust from the brake shoes wearing
    And brakes should not jam on in a 2017 Toyota that has only done 27k KM, the vehicle is still nearly new
    Thee was a small rust stain(not rust) on the end of one axle where the brake drum fits on and wheel is attached to it, which is nothing to do with the brake mechanism

    I never said the problem was due to manually or automatically adjusting brakes , i suggest you read my posts and others again and get your facts straight sport

  22. #47
    CCBW Stumpy's Avatar
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    Peter,
    Couple of questions,

    So you have the typical handbrake lever in-between the center console and the drivers seat as mine is ( I have a 2016 Revo). When you pull it up can you physically release the lever down?

    If you can, are you saying that the brakes are still engaged after the lever is down or you cannot even release the lever?

    If the lever goes down but brakes are still engaged, I suspect the inner spring that is on the release actuator in the brake drum is binding up. While not common is does happen especially if its out of adjustment and one pulls the lever to far up.

    If the lever inside the truck will not go down once pulled up then it would suggest that the cable is binding up inside the outer sheath that protects it.

    Anyway, my 2 baht worth.

  23. #48
    Thailand Expat Fondles's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by petercallen View Post
    There is no corrosion/Rust on the brakes, i checked that at Toyota when they removed the wheels and brake drums and they look in perfect condition
    Yeah first use of the brake pedal removes any surface corrosion on the drum and it will look shiney new again.
    Last edited by Fondles; 01-11-2019 at 06:47 PM.

  24. #49
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    [QUOTE=JPPR2;4020268]Peter,
    Couple of questions,

    So you have the typical handbrake lever in-between the center console and the drivers seat as mine is ( I have a 2016 Revo). When you pull it up can you physically release the lever down?

    If you can, are you saying that the brakes are still engaged after the lever is down or you cannot even release the lever?

    If the lever goes down but brakes are still engaged, I suspect the inner spring that is on the release actuator in the brake drum is binding up. While not common is does happen especially if its out of adjustment and one pulls the lever to far up.

    If the lever inside the truck will not go down once pulled up then it would suggest that the cable is binding up inside the outer sheath that protects it.

    Anyway, my 2 baht worth.

    When you use your hand brake on a hilux you pull it up as far as you can go and release the button and it stops on and when you release it you pull it up as far as it goes push the HB button and release it and it goes of
    When your brakes jam on when you try to release the handbrake the handle goes all the way up with no resistance until you feel pressure on the handle but when you push the button it does not release but stops locked on, if you pull the handle up a bit further it still does not release
    The handle is lose and moves up and down with no back pressure because the brake linings are against the drums and the return springs are not strong enough to pull them back to the off position, they look strong enough in my opinion
    Why this happens i do not have a clue but i have been reliably informed by someone who knows its a regular occurrence on on Toyota hilux
    I have no interest in informing anyone who this person is as he is a honest Toyota employee

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fondles View Post
    Yeah first use of the brake pedal removes any surface corrosion on the drum and it will look shiney new again.
    You are a anonymous person who does no even know how hill start assistance works so what you think or believe does not interest me sport
    You are just a ignorant troll, have a nice day

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