^
those bottom ones are koi.
:)
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^
those bottom ones are koi.
:)
it's an off circle shape with bits going in and out.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrAndy
not sure about the size, 3.5 metres across by 3 maybe??
might actually make it a little larger.
^^ Piss off. :)
^ CMN in my experience many people make a pond and then find it too small later. It may start off seeming like a lake, but one day you may very well see it as a puddle and wish you had built it bigger when you had the chance.
So if you are thinking of making it larger, then do so now.
The bigger the pond is, the easier it is to keep the water balanced and the fish healthy. The fish will also grow faster.
oh goodness, are you actually working again after having had a beer break? :surprise:
^
nope, I'm going to make it bigger on Monday and Tuesday.
so where are the bladdy pics then poster boy?
i prefer to post pictures in batches.Quote:
Originally Posted by kingwilly
right now, i only have a few.
i shall wait till it's developed slightly.
I'm sure that Dalton is the best guy to consult when it comes to filtering.
My thoughts though. Cleaning filters shouldn't normally be done and doing it every six week will just leave you with a mostly mechanical filtering of the water. It is like this, when setting up a filter it takes about six weeks before the filter will work biologically.
Biologically means that a bacteria build up in the filter will transform nitrite (very poisonous to fish) into nitrate (not poisonous in a moderate amount) and also reduce nitrate and remove ammonia (poisonous). A good supply of healthy plants in the pond will also reduce the nitrate.
So, never clean the filter, and if you absolute must do it, it should be carefully done using the water from the pond to avoid killing the bacteria. A healthy working filter smells of fresh earth.
A solution is to use a prefilter that removes the dirt and can be cleaned regularly leaving the main filter working for years. With very little nitrate and no ammonia the algae will not thrive. A darker bottom in the pond will also reduce the algae growth. A small amount of Chlorine salt can actually help with reducing nitrite (should be 0) and ammonia.
The correct balance between amount of fish, plants and filter capacity will make a healthy pond.
^ As far as I can see 100% correct advice.
A good biological filter and a wealth of plants gives you the perfectly balanced pond.
BosseQ must be part of the fishkeeping fraternity.
One day you will also join these hallowed grounds CMN. Well done for joining the hobby!:)
Now I have to pm Buadhai and make sure he doesn't hate me.:(
He'll be to scared to open the PM...It could be explosive...:)Quote:
Originally Posted by bkkmadness
The bio-filter shall only be cleaned when the Nitrate (NO3) reading is getting to high, over 100mg/L. However only clean 1/3 of the bio-filter so the remaining bacteria can reproduce.Quote:
Originally Posted by BosseO
Quote:
Originally Posted by BosseO
All correct, but if you have to many plants, then you might need to ad some kind of aeration at night-time, depending on your stocking density of fish.Quote:
Originally Posted by BosseO
Depending on stocking density again, I don't think he will need more than just a simple bio-filter. Talking about Nitrite level, one of my systems has 5ppm of Nitrite in it all the time, but the fish don't die, due to the level of salinity a pH at 7 and a DO at 10, so it's all depending of how you run the system and the other water-parameters.Quote:
Originally Posted by BosseO
It starts to sound most interesting CMN. I would agree with all the suggestions, so far. Why not make the pond a little deeper at the point where the waterfall drops. This will give you an interesting current.
i have just got back from work and tried to visualise it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Loombucket
i've started to think it's quite a lot too small, not just depth but size.
i might go out a metre in every direction.
:(
i expect this to take me six months to complete, i'm crap at making stuff.
if i hired my building blokes, they'd have it done by tuesday but i really want to do it myself.
I thought it was the Scottish who were tight with the green...:)
My pond is 50 meters by 10 meters, at 4 to 5 meters deep though it wouldn't do well with plants, think big when you build a pond :)Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiangMai noon
^ If CMN has to dig that size pond out by hand, then he'll die of age before it's done...:)
yes but it will still be worth a dozen century threads in the making...Quote:
Originally Posted by Dalton
^ 555555 I should green you for that one, but it's against my principles :)
some of the fish in the pic are DEFINITELY koiQuote:
Originally Posted by bkkmadness
quote]
All correct, but if you have to many plants, then you might need to ad some kind of aeration at night-time, depending on your stocking density of fish.
quote]
Talking about Nitrite level, one of my systems has 5ppm of Nitrite in it all the time, but the fish don't die, due to the level of salinity a pH at 7 and a DO at 10, so it's all depending of how you run the system and the other water-parameters.[/quote]
the salt will be lowering the nitrite level. without it it would be much higher. the high ph level can help, but has a detrimental effect on ammonia toxicity: there are two kinds of ammonia present in a system, one more toxic to fish than the other, and at higher ph, the ratio of toxic to non toxic ammonia is higher. rather fix your biofilter and get the nitrites down, your fish will be stressed at these levels and this will probably affect your fcr, plus make them more susceptable to disease.
plants produce oxygen during the day, and use some during low light levels:
they use far less oxygen at night than they produce during the day, and the long hours of bright sunlight in thailand will mean that they will constantly add to the oxygen level in the water. the plants will add aesthetic appeal to the pond, produce shelter for the fish, provide some food , aid in filtration and provide an area for breeding. plant lillies for shade and plant oxygenating, fern-like plants for water quality improvement. a perfect balance of plants and fish will result in a healthy, algae-free pond.
^ If you have the right stocking density and if your water-parameters are as they should be....Hard to tell at this point...:)
as you said: everything has to be in balance. better to err on the safe side, then work up from there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dalton
remember, this is not a commercial operation- rather somethimg that adds appeal to the garden, so i would say that a system that emulates nature would add more appeal, but it is important to get the right balance or the stench of rotting fish will spoil the effect.............
For mine I will use this site as a guide along with some of the suggestions from members. Seems to cover things pretty well.
Google Image Result for http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/how-to-install-a-water-garden-pond-17.jpg
^ There are some good pond forums out there if you Google that, such as Koiphen.com, if you don't try to register you can cruise the forum. Once you try to register you wont be able to, until you dump their cookies. It takes a while for them to get back to you. Lot of good stuff there about all types of ponds.
So this is the famous thread.
What a silly billy old BH is.