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  1. #1
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    El Gibbon's Avatar
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    Moving to the Moo Ban - Permanently????

    I thought this might be a fun topic. This is my first experience in living in the village full time. Some background first. I've lived in Thailand full time for almost 9 years. The first seven years was in Phuket, both Patong and then Phuket Town.

    I had originally planned on starting a business in Phuket. After SARS, 911 and the onslaught of Bird Flu, then the Tsunami, I bagged the Phuket idea. Tourism has been in steady decline since my first days in Thailand. A tourist focused business just wasn't going to work. I dilly dalied way too long in Phuket.

    In the meantime I had traveled to Udon, P-look, Kanchanaburi, Pattaya, Konkean, Hua Hin and of course Bangers.

    I decided I'd give the big city a try and see how it worked. I was no longer interested in starting a business, I enjoy RETIREMENT way to much, no need to add any stress or problems to my life.

    Almost immediately I met the perfect woman. (how many times have you heard that? ) Actually it has worked damn well for us. We spent a year plus living in Din Daeng, Inthamara area in a great apartment. It was close to shopping, great transportation infrastructure and close enough to Sukumvit for the occasional foray for beers.

    My missus is from the Chantaburi area, the youngest of 13 siblings ( 11 still alive). Two of her nine (9) sisters are quite ill with long term maladies. We had discussed 'eventually' moving closer to the family so she could help care for the two ladies. Her daughter also goes to a private boarding school in Rayong, so a move in that general direction was also beneficial.

    (to be continued)
    "If you can't stand the answer --
    Don't ask the question!"

  2. #2
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    Continued 1

    After a year of Bangers smog and noise - the constant rumble of trucks, buses and tuk tuks without mufflers - began to really wear on my senses. I was ready for a move.

    OK now to decide on a new abode. Of course Chantaburi, actually the village, came up immediately. For the previously mentioned reasons I was OK with it as long as some minimum requirements could be met.

    Along with the basics of electricity, water, roads etc. I wanted a House not a shack. Also needed access to cable/sat. TV, internet in some form, reasonable distance to a big box type store ( Tesco, Big C, Macro, Carrefour) and a single occupancy preferrably with some distance to the neighbors. I really do enjoy my peace and quiet. Lastly I was NOT going to buy anything without living in the area for longer than a year.

    I thought originally that the requirements would negate the village and we would probably end up in Chantaburi town... Wrong. Still close enough to help out with the sisters but far enough away to insure some privacy from the family.

    So off we go to the bus station for a trip to Chantaburi and the moo ban to take a look see. I haven't owned a car since the first year in Phuket. No place to park in Phuket anywhere you want to go and traffic in Bangers was not for me.

    Checking out Chantaburi I found a nice size city with good hospitals, decent roads, stores and all the other amenities found in most provincial capitals. On to the moo ban. A very small village that is totally immersed in fruit and rubber production. Quaint was my first impression, nice but ......

    I had met another farang on a previous trip, so called him to meet for a few beers. We met at a roadside shop for a couple of cold ones. He introduced me to another mate and we talked about living in the boonies. They told me if I moved there that would make a total of three falangs in the whole district say nothing of the moo ban.

    As it turned out one of them knew of a house for rent that met my requirements. Seems a retired district school administrator had a place for rent. Two bedroom with some western/euro style design features, all on 4 rai of mixed fruit orchard. Interesting, and it was basically in the middle of the village just off the main highway. Worth a look.

    (to be continued)

  3. #3
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    continued 2

    Off I go in the pissing rain to look at this place, not really expecting much at all. I was guided to the place by the current sometimes resident, an amerithai that shlocks english teachers to the local schools at rediculous prices. (That practice ends as of Jan 1 if they keep the teeth in the new immigration laws.)

    She is one of the least affable Thais I've ever met. A total gold digger and continually brags about winters in Thailand, spring in Texas and summers in Alaska, like I give crap.

    Anyway I check out this dump she is living in with two evangelist teachers, what pigs. The house is excellent though, well built and needs but a couple of upgrades. It has a sit-down toilet but hand dipped flush. No water heater for showers, ( I do demand hot water to use occasionally for headaches.) and no outside kitchen, one of GF's demands. All of which are easily remidied. I ask the rent and she tells me its 3500, not bad.

    I call the GF at her moms place and tell her to get over and take a look, we are scheduled to return to Bangers early the next morning and if she wants this place I want to act.

    The Thai witch insists that she act as 3rd party to the owner, I tell her to flock off, I deal only with an owner. She finally relents and we get the phone number. I really don't need an outside Thai to talk Thai to the owner, the GF does have some use. (too funny it turns out the owner is related to GF by marriage so its all in the family, once that got sorted everything was a piece of cake.)

    As we find out later she had raised the price by 500 baht 'commission', the GF goes ballistic and starts to raise all kinds of hell. Took some time but I finally convinced her that at 3500 was still a decent deal and with the year contract all was OK. Hell we were paying 15K for the place in Bangers and this was about the same size (approx. 100+ Sq meters of living space) with a decent size kitchen even if it was 'inside'. Plus it is rural and quiet with nothing but some chickens across the street. Nice views and as the Thais would say, "great weather", meaning quite breezy.

    Did all paperwork via EMS mail with the owner, Thongchai, and that was that, we had a place in the moo ban. Not ten minutes from Ma and Pa's place.

    We moved in 28 November and then the fun started.

    One other aside, it appears that Ma is not happy with the falang for not buying the place. The owner wants 1.4 MM baht for the house and 4+ rai, but , I'm not interested in buying, yet. Ma wants to pay the downpayment for us -- go figure. They are as poor as any farmer in Thailand, as all they do is rubber and she wants to fork out the downpayment. Oh ... maybe she saved it up from sellling BBQ bananas every morning, best around so everyone tells me - she has a secret sauce/batter she uses and is sold out by 9 AM every day.

  4. #4
    This is not my avatar
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    ^Great thread, any pictures???

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by El Gibbon
    They are as poor as any farmer in Thailand
    Chantaburi has very good soil and weather conditions so they get really good yeilds per rai, also stuff like dragon fruit needs very minimal work to grow there and is a high cash crop, I go there quite a lot as my girlfriends family are from there, also have a drive round and look at some of the prawn farms, they got houses that esl teachers can only dream about, Chantaburi the locals make good money.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtydog
    they got houses that esl teachers can only dream about
    and builders

  7. #7

    R.I.P.


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    Quote Originally Posted by NickA
    and builders
    Ouch, oy I am getting there, I have all the windows for my house, I have all the skirting boards, quite a few bathroom fittings, lots of other bits and pieces, just got to start building it is all

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Gibbon
    As we find out later she had raised the price by 500 baht 'commission', the GF goes ballistic and starts to raise all kinds of hell. Took some time but I finally convinced her that at 3500 was still a decent deal
    I don't get it.
    Dealing directly with the owner, who is a relative, you still need to pay 500Bt commission per month???

    Sounds crazy, I wouldn't go with that.

  9. #9
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    Nick A.. Yes will upload a couple later today hopefully, now that I've got the system sussed.

    DD .. I haven't seen dragon fruit in the local village, although there is a lot along the highway going into C- buri. Most here is either rubber, mangosteen, durian, banana, Chinese apple (the bell shaped fruit) and jack fruit. I will spend the next year or so checking things out. I do want to eventually establish some type of cash crop that requires little maintenance on my part.

    stroller .. We didn't find out about the relationship until after we moved in. In the interest of not wanting anyone to lose face and keeping everyone happy I am inclined to let it pass. I definitely don't want the "cheap charlie" moniker since everyone in this village is either related to the Ms. or the land lord...

    Will post more on the move from Bangers and hopefully a photo or two later today.

    E G

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Gibbon
    I definitely don't want the "cheap charlie" moniker
    I'd be careful that I wouldn't get the "malleable sucker" label either, but anyway, you know the situation better than me.

  11. #11
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    NO sucker here lol

    Stroller .. no problem with that, have not been asked for satang in better than a year and a half. I did volunteer to pay daughter's tuition since I want her to get a decent education.

    Now lets see if I can post a photo of the 'abode'.


    Well that one worked finally !

    Here is a view looking south, the Soi Dau mountains are off to the left of the frame.


    That is a banana plantation across the road and in the far background a durian orchard.

    Now a view to the west, both are from the front porch.


    As you can see, a great place to sit and sip my gin-on-the-rocks in the evenings after a long hard day of retirement!
    Last edited by El Gibbon; 12-12-2006 at 11:37 AM. Reason: spelling error

  12. #12
    Have you got any cheese Thetyim's Avatar
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    Renting a house has always been a headache for me in LOS.

    You say it has 4 rai of land.
    Ask the Landlady who owns the fruit on the land. Do not assume that it is yours.
    If it ain't yours then don't water it or get her to pay your water bill.
    I have had many a fight over this.

  13. #13
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    It sure looks nice where you live!

  14. #14
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    4 rai

    Thetyim.... The missus has reminded me we rent the house NOT the land... He, the landlord, can take care of the orchards hissself.... I will turn on the water for 30 minutes every 4/5 days. My interests will be trying not to kill some orchids and raising a few veggies in pots.

    E G

  15. #15
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    Thanks stroller, seems to fit my perfectly.... a greenie for that comment.

    E G

  16. #16
    Have you got any cheese Thetyim's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Gibbon
    The missus has reminded me we rent the house NOT the land...
    Good.
    I have had Landlords who insist that I water the land and then they come and take all the fruit.
    Your situation good. You can just nick as much as you want

  17. #17
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    OK here we go - the move

    Back to the beginning.

    After returning to Bangers the missus started packing. I was going to call some movers but no, she would handle it. I had arrived in town with 3 suitcases, a set of golf clubs and my laptop.

    I’m rather known for picking up at a moment’s notice and boogying whenever I have had enough crap. (Finally leaving Phuket is a whole different story)

    While we were packing up, Ms arranged for a pickup truck from a friend that would drag all our stuff to Chantaburi. After a week or so of packing I realized a pickup just wasn’t going to hack it. Having added two TVs, a stereo, DVD and various and sundry kitchen appliances ( I’m a decent cook but can’t hold a candle to the missus) along with all the bedding and stuff that goes with a couple of king size beds it was just too much. The computer desk and assorted tables we had picked meant up a small truck was in order.

    Within 10 minutes she had negotiated a truck, door to door for 5K baht, including a driver and helper. It was one of those light weight Izuzu 4 wheel cargo trucks, perfect.

    In the meantime the Chantaburi house needed a major, major enema. Did I mention the old lady is an absolute clean freak? You can literally eat off of any surface in our house any time of the day, I can’t believe how much she cleans.

    She was going to have here sisters clean the house prior to our moving. Apparently they didn’t connect with the owner to get the keys. So no major cleaning was accomplished.

    I left early in the AM to catch a bus, the missus rode down with the truck to guide them to the house. The bus was delayed by an hour, go figure, normally VIP buses have reliable schedules. Besides I really didn’t want to be there to see how they managed to move all the crap down four flights of stairs. Ooohwhee!

    As it turns out she shanghaied all the apartment staff (gardener, gate guards and maids) to help. The damn truck left Bangers before I did!

    Arrived at the new home to find the family (cleaning crew including Ma) had douched the house and all was moved in and in place and the truck gone. Surprise, surprise the only damage was a scuff mark on one side of the computer desk. The way stuff was packed in plastic bag and newspapers it was hard to believe but true. But TIT.

    Suddenly we were left alone to sort out the stuff. No sign of sisters or mother, cool.
    That wouldn’t last long.

  18. #18
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    Wonder how it will go living so close to the family - are you ready for permanent visits

    But your place sure looks great. Any chance of seeing some more pictures?

  19. #19
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    Appliance delivery

    After getting most stuff 'arranged', bags in the right room at least. We went into C-buri to buy a refer. and a gas cook top.

    Found a decent store, think the name was Best Price, with all name brand appliances and electronic gadgets. We bought a 12 cu refer and a two ring gas cooker. Delivery was included. Riiiight!

    Delivery was supposed to be made within the hour via their own truck and staff whom we drew a detailed map for. Also gave them phone numbers etc. if they got 'lost'.

    Two hours later the Bro-in-law went to get his son from school. At the end of the soi he passed the delivery truck coming out of a driveway. Empty. He stopped and asked when they would deliver our purchases.

    "just did" was the basic answer.

    Sure enough, there sat the refer, all unpacked and ready and the gas cooker. They were sitting outside a house because there was nobody home.

    He explained that they had delivered to the wrong house! Ooops, they go back and rebox the refer load it up and deliver to our abode.

    TIT

  20. #20
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    Real help

    Later that evening as we were enjoying the sunset with a couple of cold Leos I happened to mention that I would eventually build a sun shelter and try and not kill some orchids.

    At nine AM the next morning brother shows up with an axe, a Thai crooked axe and a saw. "Lets build your shelter".

    We go in the back of the house where there are three large stands of bamboo. 30 mins later we have a small pile of bamboo 'logs'. Of course we had measured out what was required for a 3 X 4 meter frame.

    Thailand measurents are just as everywhere else home builders operate. Measure with a micrometer, mark it with chalk and cut with a flocking axe!

    Three hours later I had my sun shelter. Put together with baling wire and bamboo poles. The net screening came from another bro-in-law that had extra laying around.

    The total cost - not counting the previous nite's Leos was 50 baht for the wire.

    Looks pretty barren eh?


  21. #21
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    It doesn't look very stable.

    And where are the orchids?

  22. #22
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    The guy next door

    One morning very early just prior to sunrise I'm sitting on the front porch rail - in my BVD's - having my first cup of java for the day. 'tis a beautiful time of day here, birds waking up makes it kinda noisy but otherwise a great time of day.

    I note that a half naked Thai man in rubber boots is coming out from behind the house. He is carrying one of those curved Thai axes and a cane pole. Hmmm

    After my initial surprise I realize its my neighbor from across the street. He doesn't say a word just crosses the road to his house and begins working on his bamboo stick. In a few minutes he starts off to his bananas with his hoe/shovel with a brandy new handle. Ready to do some weeding in the early morning cool.

    It takes awhile to get adjusted to the fact that the idea of property rights is non-existant here. Not that I give a shit, its just unusual to find folks wandering in to grab a bunch bananas or a jack fruit or two or some bamboo sticks without so much as an "how do you do".

    Later in the morning an older woman rides up on her put put. Waving a handful of papers and talking very rapid Thai. My Thai is basically tourist level and her speed of speech was way fast. I did make out 'loy song sip something"

    Turns out she is the 'electric' lady and she wants 129 baht. No problem, gee life is simple here.

    E. G

  23. #23
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    stable

    Stroller, it is VERY stable as its tied to the carport pillar at one corner and a house roof column at the other. To keep it from swaying sideways relative to the two 'stable' connections I added angle bracking at the back.

    You would be surprised at how strong it is. Same building technique as is used for bamboo scaffolding thoughout Asia. Cross wrap (X pattern) and twist all until tight. Actually an amazing system. I've seen it used up to 10 stories in Bangers and much more in Hong Kong for example.

    Pix to come.

    E. G .

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Gibbon
    I did make out 'loy song sip something"
    Stay away from her - she's foreign.
    Thai's tend to speak Thai: Roy yii sip something

  25. #25
    I am in Jail
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    Quote Originally Posted by guttersnipe
    Roy yii sip something
    That ain't bloody Thai either.

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