Thread: Flood damage - Parquet Floor

Rip up the wood mate.

Tiles are so much more practical and don't forget to use a good ceramic adhesive and make sure the floor is perfectly clean of dust and loose material. The Weber product although a little more expensive is far better than the locally made ceramic adhesive.

Yep, we had to rip up our parquet floors in the old house after we'd been flooded.

Tiles are the way to go!

As others have said, rip it up. After the demo be sure to allow the bare concrete to dry fully. fill all cracks or gaps with sealer using epoxy if possible. Next put a coat of clear sealer over the entire surface to insure water will not enter either direction. Big job, hope you have a reliable tile person?

Thought so. Thanks people.

I thought mine had dried out but then it started to smell and a few area's started to bow a little. That wood had to go.

Sandwash is a better alternative.

Originally Posted by Loy Toy

Rip up the wood mate.

Ditto!

Leave em down! then regret it until you eventually have to rip em up

Originally Posted by Rigsby

Sandwash is a better alternative.

inside a house?

You beat me to it, Dr, I always put down a plastic membrane to stop any rising damp

Originally Posted by ltnt

Next put a coat of clear sealer over the entire surface to insure water will not enter either direction.

Originally Posted by FarangRed

I always put down a plastic membrane to stop any rising damp

Originally Posted by DrAndy

lay sheets of plastic down to help keep any damp out

Forgive my ignorance but if you seal the base concrete (as above) how does the tile adhesive form a proper base?

Before I tile I always soak the tiles and splash water on the floor before I lay the tiles.

^OK LT we forgive you

the plastic membrane is to go under the new concrete slab, if he wants to do that job first

the tiles would then be laid on the concrete

splashing water on the floor and tiles is not necessary, unless you are using porous tiles

and if you use good tile adhesive, a no-no

Originally Posted by DrAndy

the plastic membrane is to go under the new concrete slab, if he wants to do that job first

How is that a better insulator than an inch of leveled sand?

"unless you are using porous tiles"

I thought all tiles are porous, that's why the tiles stick to the cement by absorbing it.

Originally Posted by nigelandjan

If you have a 4" drop Jesus I would as others have said rip up the wood ( not easy if its been glued down properly ) then how about tanking it up to the 4" level before pouring the cement in to tile it , then IF it happens again the water wont damage up to that level .

Good luck mate

A 4" drop is about standard thickness for a concrete slab or sidewalk. Rip up the wood, lay down some wire mesh, get a concrete finisher, and call a concrete truck to pour it. Easy to do and less problems later. Tile it and forget it.

Originally Posted by Loy Toy

Originally Posted by DrAndy

the plastic membrane is to go under the new concrete slab, if he wants to do that job first

How is that a better insulator than an inch of leveled sand?

"unless you are using porous tiles"

I thought all tiles are porous, that's why the tiles stick to the cement by absorbing it.

It's known as a DPM.It's used to prevent rising damp.

Originally Posted by Loy Toy

Originally Posted by DrAndy

the plastic membrane is to go under the new concrete slab, if he wants to do that job first

How is that a better insulator than an inch of leveled sand?

"unless you are using porous tiles"

I thought all tiles are porous, that's why the tiles stick to the cement by absorbing it.

by "insulator" I presume you mean damp proof course. Plastic is easier to lay and put cement on than an inch of sand, therefore more reliable

and all tiles are not porous; the back may be but the glazed front is not

porous tiles are those that breathe, like quarry tiles

as for his problem, the cheapest thing to do is lay new tiles with cement (as most tilers do in Thailand), then no need to seal or worry about any residual damp

I was talking about raising the floor level 4" as well