Thread: Snowbird house build in LOS

Originally Posted by dennis4558

We finally got a start on the wall blocks



I'm not a block layer but it looks like they're doing it right

I am guessing that the bits of rebar on the floor are to tie the walls into the columns? Perhaps not quite as good as the proper metal straps but they will do the job. As long as they have something there, all is good !
The walls should go up quite quickly withe AAC blocks.

Thanks Norton & Klondyke, I can see using that style of anchor for hanging something heavy, what about light things?

Originally Posted by mikenot

Perhaps not quite as good as the proper metal straps but they will do the job.

Hi Mike, when I watched the Qcon installation video, they said either method was OK, this being the cheaper route.

Ran into a little snag today, from looking at the pictures I couldn't tell the size of steps, turns out they're 25 cm instead of 28 cm, it took about 3 hours this morning to get it sorted out.
Here's a picture of the plan that shows the steps, if you were the builder what size of step would you have made? or what else might have you done?

When discussing the problem with the steps, the builder kept saying the finished step will be 28 cm, there is no way you can make a 25 cm step into a 28 cm step without something happening, even I know that and I've only had mechanical drawing in high school, the finished step with the wood tread is supposed to be 30 cm. The only way he could do that is with a 5 cm overhang (stair nose ), suicide steps. This is the drawing I did to show how it could be done, the nephew couldn't figure it out, he said we could do the bottom steps but not the top.



First drawing


2nd drawing, it's not an ideal situation but it will work, there's still 80 cm to turn the corner, same size as most doors, after this picture the nephew understood and sent this drawing.



I still haven't heard from the builder so not sure if he understands but the nephew can explain it to him.

Dennis
I think you are some ways lucky to have your nephew over there as he seems to have understood what you want considering the drawing he sent back.
When he said he could do the bottom steps but not the top I believe he was worried about encroaching into the landing space but as you say there should still be plenty of room.

As for tying the new concrete into the stairs that are already there what I would ask them to do is to knock the corners off the existing steps as much as possible to create space to lay a continuous layer of concrete which would incorporate the new stairs. I will try and draw a picture and post it later to show what I mean.

I think I said to you in an early post that the stairs were one place they stuffed up in our build and it took a lot of talking to get through what I wanted.
Even with a tread of 28cm the steps are not really wide but should be OK. I just went and measured the steps we have here and they are 30,32 and 34cm treads with rises of 17.5cm.
I can place my whole foot on them, I am size 45 shoe (American size).

Cheers

Dennis

I have tried to make a drawing to indicate what I was trying to say in the previous post.

If possible I would ask them to knock the existing steps back to the red line mark shown below.
This would give you new concrete most of the way, the 2 areas circled would be where you might want to be more particular about how the new is tied into the old.
I think the builder would or will be very reluctant to do this work without extra recompense as it would not be an easy task.

Just as an aside how did the original drawings end up with 2 different dimensions for the stair tread, 25cm and 28cm. As you said if you want the final tread to be 28cm that is what the first concrete pour needs to be.

Originally Posted by dennis4558

Thanks Norton & Klondyke, I can see using that style of anchor for hanging something heavy, what about light things?

Just a simple plastic dowel should be enough for picture from your graduation...

Originally Posted by ootai

Even with a tread of 28cm the steps are not really wide but should be OK. I just went and measured the steps we have here and they are 30,32 and 34cm treads with rises of 17.5cm.
I can place my whole foot on them, I am size 45 shoe (American size).

Hi Ootai, I'm happy to get the 28 cm step, my foot is 28 cm and with the tread at 30 gives me a little extra, my shoe size is 10 1/2 - 11 that puts me at a 44 size in Euro sizes bigger would have been better but I think it will be OK

[QUOTE=ootai;4023881]Dennis

I have tried to make a drawing to indicate what I was trying to say in the previous post.

If possible I would ask them to knock the existing steps back to the red line mark shown below.
This would give you new concrete most of the way, the 2 areas circled would be where you might want to be more particular about how the new is tied into the old.
I think the builder would or will be very reluctant to do this work without extra recompense as it would not be an easy task.

Just as an aside how did the original drawings end up with 2 different dimensions for the stair tread, 25cm and 28cm. As you said if you want the final tread to be 28cm that is what the first concrete pour needs to be.





[

Thanks Ootai, I see what you mean on first couple steps, the other steps I think will be OK but the first 2 with it being so small by breaking some concrete out they will tie into the old step making them more secure, I'll post this picture on our construction page and hopefully the nephew will understand. I really appreciate the input, Thanks again

Originally Posted by Klondyke

Just a simple plastic dowel should be enough for picture from your graduation...

Hi Klondyke, or picture of old GF
They will probably hold better in insulated block, I just know at her sisters house where they used plastic anchors to hold towel bars etc. I had to replace several because they came loose, her house has cinder block. I had to put epoxy in the holes then inserted a new anchor, let it cure then reinstalled. I'm not sure if there's a better way but it seemed to work.

Looks like it's going to be another delay, our block crew went back to harvesting rice, hope to see them by the weekend or start of next week.

Dennis
I thought I should tell you that I have the same blocks as you for our walls, though we only used 7.5cm everywhere and if I want to hang something that is not too heavy I just use concrete nails and hammer them into the block.
If you want to hang something heavier then I would use the method you described above i.e. put some glue/epoxy into the hole when you first install the anchor don't wait to have to due it later.

Ootai, I think you're right, concrete nails will work good for small items.
When talking to the nephew about stairs (if google translated right) he thinks steel into the face of risers should be enough, the other think that may concern me is by breaking some of the concrete on the steps is that it's at the narrowest point and could weaken main structure of steps.

More issues with the steps, block crew didn't get the information at to how they were to look



They started putting up a wall to close in the steps, they had to take it down and start over



The wall the way it is supposed to be



This is the picture given to builder for reference

Another problem noticed by daughter is there is a gap between steps



One of the block crew was smart enough to come up with a solution



If you look close you can see caulk lines on the floor, what they will have to do is place the first wall to the right of stairs then another wall to fill in the space, cutting them to the same as steps, then the final wall can be put in up to and under the upper flight of stairs to achieve the look we want. Hope I explained that right for everyone to understand. The lower flight of stairs will be wider because of it but I doubt anyone will notice when finished.

Dennis
Slowly but surely you are getting there. How is your builder handling all this "interference". Is he interpreting it as criticism of his work or is he being accommodating to the requests for the rework. You are going to have to rely heavily on your onsite observers to watch everything to get the detail right.

I don't believe that they do it deliberately "wrong" they just do it the way they always have which is usually the quick and easy way.
Keep posting I enjoy seeing your updates.

We've got some block action taking place



View from the front of the house



Looking into front bedroom lower level



View looking past bathroom toward kitchen, have a problem here, closest wall on the right is suppose to have a window, and farthest wall on the right is not, it was a change from the original plans talked about at one of the meetings, builder seems to forget to tell his workers of any changes.

I got this wrong, this is the back bedroom 1st floor



This is picture of front bedroom 1st floor

They got a few more block laid but now back at the rice farms



Here they closed in wall where they were going to put a window where one shouldn't have been but still haven't cut in the window in the right place which is the closest wall on the right.



Still no wall between stairs.



A look into front bedroom more block to be laid above windows.



The back of the house, kitchen on the left, back bedroom on the left, window in bedroom shouldn't be there, but easy fix just fill it in.



Looking into back bedroom, waiting on 10 cm block to do south wall.



Starting on plumbing.



No P-trap on shower drain on left, A (builder) said it would be put in.

I think this is wood for door frames

More block work progress



First floor bathroom getting done, but didn't put in window, already 2 rows of block too high.



More progress on the step wall



Only problem with step wall is it's either too long or too short, too long because it's not a square corner with front wall going under steps, too short because it doesn't go out to end of steps, I'd like a shorter wall but it might create a problem with hole at the top, not sure how ceiling they would close that and still get ceiling in to look good.
I told daughter to talk to block installer to get their opinion.




Here if you zoom and look close you can see how steps will be extended to the required 28 cm

Starting to put up walls on 2nd floor



Looking toward front of house



Northwest side of house



Front bedroom block work done just needs door frame installed and block work around it.