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  1. #51
    Thailand Expat Airportwo's Avatar
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    Good luck with the build Manta, be interesting to see what ideas you incorporate from your past work experience in Aus. I like the design of the house, very functional for the city.
    I'm about 100k away from you, we also got rain yesterday, first time I have ever seen rain that heavy or even rain at this time of year, first decent rain we have had since September, sign of good luck to come though not ideal when laying slab, sure the workers were surprised.
    Cheers

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Airportwo View Post
    Good luck with the build Manta, be interesting to see what ideas you incorporate from your past work experience in Aus. I like the design of the house, very functional for the city.
    I'm about 100k away from you, we also got rain yesterday, first time I have ever seen rain that heavy or even rain at this time of year, first decent rain we have had since September, sign of good luck to come though not ideal when laying slab, sure the workers were surprised.
    Cheers
    Thanks for the comment, yes the only day we get rain I am pouring the slab.

    It looks good today, we went back last night and gave it a very rough broom finish for the tile mortar bed later on.

    Column boxing was done today, tomorrow I will be checking their positioning against the set out. Once that is done we will pour. then onto the upper floor structure.

    Regards
    Paul

  3. #53
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    Very exciting to see your dream taking shape! Good for you!!
    A litle rain will not hurt it, especially since you are not concerned about the finish. because it will be tiled.
    Actually keeping it wet and cool while it cures increases its strength. Same with the columns, when poured after the forms are stripped, they should be wrapped in plastic wrap ,especially if it is hot and dry, to keep it from losing moisture and decreasing its strength.
    The sooner you fall behind, the more time you have to catch up.

  4. #54
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    Funny, in my ignorance I thought the plastic wrap at our place was some sort of protective measure from knocks and scrapes, etc...feeling a little silly now.
    Quote Originally Posted by Buckaroo Banzai View Post
    Very exciting to see your dream taking shape! Good for you!!
    A litle rain will not hurt it, especially since you are not concerned about the finish. because it will be tiled.
    Actually keeping it wet and cool while it cures increases its strength. Same with the columns, when poured after the forms are stripped, they should be wrapped in plastic wrap ,especially if it is hot and dry, to keep it from losing moisture and decreasing its strength.

  5. #55
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    Buckaroo Banzai's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoganInParasite View Post
    Funny, in my ignorance I thought the plastic wrap at our place was some sort of protective measure from knocks and scrapes, etc...feeling a little silly now.
    Not at all silly
    if I did not know , I would think the same, and I did not always know, I learned the same way you do or we all do, That's why we are here.

  6. #56
    Thailand Expat David48atTD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoganInParasite View Post
    Funny, in my ignorance I thought the plastic wrap at our place was some sort of protective measure from knocks and scrapes, etc...feeling a little silly now.


    I still remember scratching my head the first time I saw a ware sprinkler on a day old laid slab


    The Basics of Concrete Curing For Higher Quality Slabs | Maxwell Supply Blog

  7. #57
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    A lot has happened since my last post. We had just poured the lower slab.
    After that we proceeded to box and pour the lower columns, I ensured that these were placed to the setout string lines.
    Dooks team were great again, they made sure that the columns were plumb before and after pouring

  8. #58
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    Once these lower columns were poured we proceed to prepare and pour the upper beams






    Note the use of the spacers for the steel, this was a carry over from the bar chairs I requested
    We made provision for the upper drainage to go thru the beams so as to not have a dropped ceiling downstairs.



  9. #59
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    Next we prepared and poured the upper slab

    I had requested extra steel rods around the perimeter beams to tie in the upper slab. These were place at 500mm centres with similar at 900 mm centres in the internal beams

    Once the upper slab was poured we then went onto boxing up the stairs, we ensured that the risers would be even taking into account the different floor finish thicknesses on the upper, lower floors and the steps themselves.

    We had a bit of an issue with the concrete mix. Dook had ordered a slump suitable to pour the steps which are on approx 30 degree angle. Of course the concrete came far too wet. So we simply sent it back as not as ordered.

    The plant manager came out to check and he agreed to replace the defective mix with. we had to wait another 1.5 hours but all done.

    At the same time we poured the upper columns.


















    So that where we are at now

    Next: walls and roof

  10. #60
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    I bought some paint samples and tried out the paint scheme
    The photo is a bit dark but you can get the gist.
    Builders white walls
    Terracotta trim/gutters fascia
    Grey feature panels
    All in a semi sheen exterior paint (TOA)




  11. #61
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    Looking good, Mantadive. Coming along nicely.

  12. #62
    Days Work Done! Norton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mantadive View Post
    All in a semi sheen exterior paint (TOA)
    I have this on all my exterior house walls and property walls. Very good.

    https://www.toagroup.com/en/product/...-elasticshield

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norton View Post
    I have this on all my exterior house walls and property walls. Very good.

    https://www.toagroup.com/en/product/...-elasticshield
    Thanks for the info

  14. #64
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    Today the QBlocks showed up along with the roof steel framing
    The gang is on site hand digging the sewer and stormwater to the street by hand and the Brickie is there.
    I went to the hardware and bought some cavity brick ties because I am having double 75 mm cavity walls to the west and south facades
    I also tried to buy some dampcourse but no luck ( no wonder they have rising damp everywhere) so I had some plastic roll left over from under the slab. We proceed to cut this into 200 mm wide strips for under the lower walls.

    I have also tried to buy some zinc based metal primer but no luck so far all red oxide.

    Should see a lot of action this week

  15. #65
    Thailand Expat Airportwo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mantadive View Post
    I have also tried to buy some zinc based metal primer but no luck so far all red oxide.
    You can get zinc primer on Lazada, not cheap here, probably why they are still using archaic red oxide!

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mantadive View Post
    Today the QBlocks showed up along with the roof steel framing
    The gang is on site hand digging the sewer and stormwater to the street by hand and the Brickie is there.
    I went to the hardware and bought some cavity brick ties because I am having double 75 mm cavity walls to the west and south facades
    I also tried to buy some dampcourse but no luck ( no wonder they have rising damp everywhere) so I had some plastic roll left over from under the slab. We proceed to cut this into 200 mm wide strips for under the lower walls.

    I have also tried to buy some zinc based metal primer but no luck so far all red oxide.

    Should see a lot of action this week
    Not to worry too much about wall cavity ties, Dooks concreet team is some of the best I have ever seen, and I have have 30 years experience working for a concrete company involved in the NY high rise building industry, Local 212 NYC (concrete carpenters) .
    Dook builds a fortress.
    We also used a cavity double wall.
    Building in Khonkaen-elect-jpg
    Notice the horizontal (below and above windows) and vertical (sides of windows) concrete tie beams
    before these beams were poured the cavities were in places filled with small pieces of superblock, and the outside and inside walls were glued together,
    Building in Khonkaen-wall-fill-jpg
    If I was to do this again instead of the fill pieces I would had placers a course of the superblock on the flat (laid on its side) bridging the outside and inside wall. regardless our walls are solid, quiet, and cool.
    some more pictures from our build to ease your mind,
    Building in Khonkaen-wall3-jpg
    Building in Khonkaen-walls-top2-jpg
    Everything at our build went great except or wood front door, Just came back from the US yesterday after being away for about six months, The wood has shrunk and cracked, door is crap, will have to be replaced. As much as they look great , I don't think i will go with a wood front door again . tomorrow I will be looking for a fiberglass or metal door set.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Building in Khonkaen-wall3-jpg   Building in Khonkaen-wall-fill-jpg   Building in Khonkaen-elect-jpg   Building in Khonkaen-walls-top2-jpg  
    Last edited by Buckaroo Banzai; 14-03-2019 at 01:38 AM.

  17. #67
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    Buckaroo.coming along great and you have set a very high spec, but Q Con + cavity seems a little unnecessary imho.

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by NamPikToot View Post
    Buckaroo.coming along great and you have set a very high spec, but Q Con + cavity seems a little unnecessary imho.
    Though Q Con + Cavity seems to be a bit of an overkill there is a very good reason behind it. Q Con has being coming down in price making it a very competitive in price alternative, in addition to being and a hands down winner in sound a heat transfer insulation. Not to mention the fact that it is very light jb weight and easy to work with.
    Originally we were going to use the 100 mm block (if I remember correctly) but we had three issues . One was price , two was availability (at the time we had to order it and wait ), and three was astheticas, it leaved part of the column exposed in the corners.
    So I proposes to our builder that we use the ubiquitous 75 mm , available in every home improvement store, two of them were almost the same price as one 100mm while providing more insulation, and hiding the columns. the only negative was a slight increase in labor.
    as it turned out the labor component turned out to be insignificant. Since then , unless otherwise requested, I think TC house uses the double 75mm cavity wall method for all its exterior walls.

  19. #69
    Days Work Done! Norton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buckaroo Banzai View Post
    The wood has shrunk and cracked, door is crap
    Common prob here. Primarily due to using wood not properly cured.

    Quote Originally Posted by Buckaroo Banzai View Post
    fiberglass or metal door set
    Upvc doors available as well.

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norton View Post
    Common prob here. Primarily due to using wood not properly cured.


    Upvc doors available as well.
    even though the house is one year old, Dook the builder came over immediately, agreed that the door is crap and that it is not repairable. He is giving us credit for the wood door, and we are making up the difference for an Aluminum door, that unfortunately has to be ordered because it is a special aluminum design that looks like wood.
    Our house , though modern, has the look of a traditional Thai house and the design requires the wood look.
    Building in Khonkaen-kichen-window-jpg
    Not the best picture, but all I could find
    Anyway If MantaDive likes the wood lood , I highly recommend them, I should had made the front door the same to begin with, and saved some grief and aggravation.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Building in Khonkaen-kichen-window-jpg  

  21. #71
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    BB, thanks for the response and power to you. You are right the QCon price is very good now, even 5 years ago it was quite high. Regards the sound insulation, i get that but if you have single glazing you'll find that undoes this. Anyhow its a great spec compared to the houses 10 years ago that were with brick or concrete block. Coming along great.

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mantadive View Post
    Next we prepared and poured the upper slab

    I had requested extra steel rods around the perimeter beams to tie in the upper slab. These were place at 500mm centres with similar at 900 mm centres in the internal beams

    Once the upper slab was poured we then went onto boxing up the stairs, we ensured that the risers would be even taking into account the different floor finish thicknesses on the upper, lower floors and the steps themselves.

    We had a bit of an issue with the concrete mix. Dook had ordered a slump suitable to pour the steps which are on approx 30 degree angle. Of course the concrete came far too wet. So we simply sent it back as not as ordered.

    The plant manager came out to check and he agreed to replace the defective mix with. we had to wait another 1.5 hours but all done.

    At the same time we poured the upper columns.




    Remember a few years ago. that we got excite when the builder showed up with a level?
    LOL

  23. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buckaroo Banzai View Post
    Though Q Con + Cavity seems to be a bit of an overkill there is a very good reason behind it. Q Con has being coming down in price making it a very competitive in price alternative, in addition to being and a hands down winner in sound a heat transfer insulation. Not to mention the fact that it is very light jb weight and easy to work with.
    Originally we were going to use the 100 mm block (if I remember correctly) but we had three issues . One was price , two was availability (at the time we had to order it and wait ), and three was astheticas, it leaved part of the column exposed in the corners.
    So I proposes to our builder that we use the ubiquitous 75 mm , available in every home improvement store, two of them were almost the same price as one 100mm while providing more insulation, and hiding the columns. the only negative was a slight increase in labor.
    as it turned out the labor component turned out to be insignificant. Since then , unless otherwise requested, I think TC house uses the double 75mm cavity wall method for all its exterior walls.
    It's well worth the extra expense for the added comfort although there's a limit to U values but if the price was right!!!. I designed my own and instructed my builder throughout but a bit different to yours. I hate the sight of columns jutting out so I used QCon outside then formed another wall/cavity using Gyproc with a vapour barrier (no real need in Thailand) to get a smooth finish inside plus I dry lined every wall as I have never met a decent plasterer yet LOL. The inside walls in bathrooms and kitchen I used itblock filled with cement to get a good fixing for sinks etc. No matter what time of day the house walls are cools to the touch. Love your build it makes a nice change to some of these dreadful 300,000 baht things you see on youtube..are you sure you have enough rebar

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tanlic View Post
    It's well worth the extra expense for the added comfort although there's a limit to U values but if the price was right!!!. I designed my own and instructed my builder throughout but a bit different to yours. I hate the sight of columns jutting out so I used QCon outside then formed another wall/cavity using Gyproc with a vapour barrier (no real need in Thailand) to get a smooth finish inside plus I dry lined every wall as I have never met a decent plasterer yet LOL. The inside walls in bathrooms and kitchen I used itblock filled with cement to get a good fixing for sinks etc. No matter what time of day the house walls are cools to the touch. Love your build it makes a nice change to some of these dreadful 300,000 baht things you see on youtube..are you sure you have enough rebar
    I was thinking of doing the same. QCon on the outside, metal stud and drywall the inside,unfortunately at the time of the build and even now, I was bouncing between the US where I work, and Thailand every few months and I did not have the time to do it myself, metal studs are so easy to work with when you have the right tools, I could do it in my sleep, and I can drywall and tape like nobody's business, but I could not trust them to do it right on their own. So I went with the "when in Rome do as the Romans do" .
    Metal studs and drywall also works well with running mechanical, such as electric and plumbing, and easy to get access to them if need be repaired. Cut an access panel, do your repair , put the piece you cut back with a couple of metal stud pieces for backing,, tape it and you are good to go. I would use mold resistant drywall though.
    Another good thing about drywall is No echo.

  25. #75
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    Agree to be on the safe side anyone thinking of using the system for an extra 60 baht or whatever per sheet use mold resistant. A good tip is don't allow the metal frame to touch the outer wall and there's little chance of condensation like you get in colder countries. I've taken drywall off walls that has been there for 10 to 15 years and never had a problem except once with termites where they had used timber studs but never with metal.

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