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  1. #51
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    The next thing I did inside was to eliminate or reduce the noise when driving. I installed a rubber adhesive backed material to do that, one brand is called rattle trap, it doesn't need to be the full area of flat metal only portion of it. Here are some pictures of it getting installed, even had the wife helping to do that.Promaster RV Build-pm6-jpgPromaster RV Build-pm4-jpg

    Even supplied some beer and had a friend help cut while I rolled it on.
    Promaster RV Build-pm7-jpg
    And a look at the finished results.
    Promaster RV Build-pm9-jpg
    The areas not covered are for powered ceiling vent and window in the sliding door.
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  2. #52
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    Few pictures of insulating the walls and ceiling, where ever possible I used 1" dense foam board with foil facing on one side. The box and bungee cords were used to hold the insulation in place until the adhesive dried.

    Promaster RV Build-pm10-jpgPromaster RV Build-pm11-jpgPromaster RV Build-pm13-jpg
    On the ceiling I had to screw a strip of plywood in place to hold the insulation and also used good old duct tape to help hold it in place.

    Promaster RV Build-pm15-jpg
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  3. #53
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    Lately the weather hasn't been cooperating for working in the van, but I have a few pictures of cutting in the power vent before it got cold. It's a little scary cutting a hole in your roof.

    Promaster RV Build-pm20-jpg Promaster RV Build-pm32-jpg
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  4. #54
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    Promaster RV Build-pm17-jpgPromaster RV Build-pm24-jpgPromaster RV Build-pm27-jpg

    Here are some pictures of the floor installed, forgot to take pictures of insulation under 1/4" sub-floor plywood. What I used was 3/4" rigid foam insulation glued to original floor. I tried to take out black floor that was in but it was glued very good and I would have had a hard time trying to get it up so just went over it. Where ever you see seams in the plywood I glued down 1 1/2" wood strips to staple the 1/4" plywood to it. Foam board was glued down and wood strips were glued and screwed, trying to eliminate any squeaks. You can see on last photo next to wheel well the wood strips. The 1/4" plywood was also glued to wood strips and foam board.
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  5. #55
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    Promaster RV Build-pm22-jpgPromaster RV Build-pm23-jpg

    Started insulating and sheeting sides. There is 1" foam board and 2" mineral wool insulation behind 1/4" plywood. I used mineral wool insulation because it doesn't absorb moisture but very ugly to work with very itchy.
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  6. #56
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    Promaster RV Build-pm36-jpgPromaster RV Build-pm37-jpg

    Wheel wells boxed in and filled in with mineral wool insulation.
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  7. #57
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    The carpet is there to protect the bare plywood from me dragging in snow and also easier to knee on than hard plywood, knees don't work as good as they used to. The carpet is used that I got from a friend that installs carpet. The price was right (free).

  8. #58
    Thailand Expat AntRobertson's Avatar
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    Great thread, dunno how I've missed it previously??

    The build looks to be coming along nicely. Good luck with it all.

  9. #59
    disturbance in the Turnip baldrick's Avatar
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    a man with a van with a plan

    good thread

  10. #60
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    Thanks AntRobertson & Baldrick,
    Things are going slow now because of the weather I need around 32F or 0C to do any work because of using glues, I want them to dry before freezing, hard to keep it warm enough if colder.
    I did build a swivel for the passenger seat and have a section of a chevy volt battery converted to 12 volts that I was able to work on in my garage so I'll get some pics of doing those items.

  11. #61
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    Dennis,

    I too missed this, great thread and thank you for taking the trouble.

    There are some really good U Tube vids on fitting out Long Wheel Base Hi Top Panel Vans in the UK but looking at it you seem to have all your plans in place.

    So far though I've not seen you say what you final spec is; you said about Kitchen - 2 fridges, Cooker, Electrics

    For the rest what are your plans.

    What are you plans for sleeping? Fold down?

    Are you planning a shower / toilet. In the UK you can purchase all in ones with a toilet that doubles as a shower seat. In these the back of the van is sectioned off and has a wardrobe one side and shower the other, the back doors then are only used as access for emptying the toilet cartridge.

    Lastly i take it you may be using it during the colder time of the year, are you considering heating?

    Sorry for the interrogation.....

  12. #62
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    Thanks for stopping by NPT

    The bed will be across the back, Promasters are wider than other vans at 6' and I will gain another 3" by indenting into the sides above the main side beam. It will be about the size of a full size bed 54" x 75". Permanent bed don't want the bother of setting up and taking down every day.

    No shower but will have a portapotti in a hide a way drawer, always hated making that trip to the restroom at 2 or 3 in the morning, more often if it was a night of drinking.

    As of now not going to add a heater, will just have a portable electric heater that can be used when at campsites with power. What I would probably get would be a small diesel heater, they have them on ebay for $150 to $200. I have the van insulated fairly well so wouldn't need much to keep it warm, most of our camping and traveling for the moment will be in the summer where staying cool could be more of a problem.

    Thanks for all the questions, makes it easier to find things to talk about. I watched a lot of the van conversions on U tube so got most of my ideas from there and then came up with what would work best for how we would be using the van. Most of the conversions were with people living full time in their vans which we won't be doing.

  13. #63
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    This is the section of Chevy volt battery that I purchased on ebay. It this photo I have already installed 4 pieces of 1/4" threaded rod to hold the battery together. The lower rod on both sides I made longer for attaching the battery to the floor of van.

    Promaster RV Build-img_20181222_144626836-jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Promaster RV Build-img_20181222_144617021-jpg   Promaster RV Build-img_20181222_144626836-jpg  

  14. #64
    Thailand Expat AntRobertson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dennis4558 View Post
    No shower but will have a portapotti in a hide a way drawer, always hated making that trip to the restroom at 2 or 3 in the morning, more often if it was a night of drinking.

    As of now not going to add a heater, will just have a portable electric heater that can be used when at campsites with power. What I would probably get would be a small diesel heater, they have them on ebay for $150 to $200. I have the van insulated fairly well so wouldn't need much to keep it warm, most of our camping and traveling for the moment will be in the summer where staying cool could be more of a problem.
    Do you have to get licensing and registration for self-containment?

    I know in NZ it's a requirement if you're running any kind of wiring or plumbing. Kinda like a test / safety certification.

  15. #65
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    Here's another view of the battery from the side. You can see the two holes above the mounting brackets that's where the cooling fluid went through to cool the batteries, for my use that's not needed because my usage will be a much slower amp draw.

    Promaster RV Build-img_20181222_144617021-jpg
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  16. #66
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    Here's a couple pictures of what I had to do to convert it from 1 - 48 volt battery to 4 - 12 volt batteries. I had to make 3 cuts separating the cells, the tape is just to keep me from shorting out the cells while cutting them.


    Promaster RV Build-img_20181222_114608910-jpg Promaster RV Build-img_20181222_114616858-jpg
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  17. #67
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    This is the final result after wiring the 4 - 12 volt sections in parallel. I will have to make some kind of cover for it because there are a lot of exposed connections that would be easy to short out if someone drop any kind of metal on it.

    Promaster RV Build-img_20181223_150654227_hdr-jpg
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  18. #68
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    If you look at the last picture there is a 18 pin connector on the top of the battery, that is where I will be plugging into to monitor the voltage of each cell, there are 12 cells in the battery. On lithium ion batteries you have to keep all cells as close to the same voltage as possible also watch the high and low voltages, too high or too low can damage the cells, I will have more on that when I do the install of the monitors later on in the build.

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by dennis4558 View Post
    If you look at the last picture there is a 18 pin connector on the top of the battery, that is where I will be plugging into to monitor the voltage of each cell, there are 12 cells in the battery. On lithium ion batteries you have to keep all cells as close to the same voltage as possible also watch the high and low voltages, too high or too low can damage the cells, I will have more on that when I do the install of the monitors later on in the build.
    Great stuff Denis, seems like you are fairly handy with this stuff, re the battery are you a beginer with this type of thing or are you familiar with it ?

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by NamPikToot View Post
    re the battery are you a beginner with this type of thing or are you familiar with it ?
    As far as the volt battery this is a first for me, I did a lot of research before I committed to buying it versus spending triple the money for a ready to go rv lithium battery. I have a background in electrical, so it wasn't too big of a challenge.

  21. #71
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    Here are some pictures of the swivel seat bracket I made.

    Promaster RV Build-pm-71-jpg
    Two plates with holes drilled.
    Promaster RV Build-pm-72-jpgHoles in plates had to be counter sunk so bolts didn't hit other plate when turning.
    Promaster RV Build-pm-62-jpgSeat in swiveled facing back position.
    Promaster RV Build-pm-63-jpgSeat partially turned so plates can be seen.
    Promaster RV Build-pm-64-jpgTop side of plate with bushing for wires to go thru
    Promaster RV Build-pm-65-jpgLower side of plate showing bushing and wires.
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    Promaster RV Build-pm-65-jpg  

  22. #72
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    There is also a teflon sheet (wife's cutting sheet from the kitchen it's about 1/16" thick she has several so hopefully she won't miss one) between the plates.

  23. #73
    disturbance in the Turnip baldrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dennis4558 View Post
    I have a background in electrical
    some large diameter heat shrink on the exposed electrodes might be an idea before you fit the cover

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by baldrick View Post
    exposed electrodes
    If you're talking about the battery, all those u shaped bars on top are exposed live connections, I would have to heat shrink the whole top of battery to make it insulated from electrical shorting, don't think I could find anything to do that and I would still need access to + and - terminals. But it would be nice to do that.

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by SKkin View Post
    You're right though, they are a money pit. I would have been happy with tent camping, but the wife wouldn't go there. So I bought a used RV. It's been 20 years now since I sold it.

    Second happiest day in your life?

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