Chiang Mai Citylife: Kirsty's Ghost<br><em>The murder of Kirsty Jones</em> by Oliver Benjamin
October, 2005
Like a recurring nightmare or a wandering ghost, the murder of Kirsty Jones just keeps coming back to haunt Chiang Mai. Every year the police department announces that it's got a fresh lead or new evidence and everyone starts talking about it again. That is, until nothing inevitably comes of it.
This year was marked by a special development: Kirsty's parents finally came to town, ostensibly to put a little pressure on the police department to wrap up the case, a case that by
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Kirsty Jones was 23 when she was killed in the Aree Guest House, just a block west of the popular Somphet Market in the old city. Now renamed 'Mam House', few who stay there today could ever imagine the tragedy and subsequent media circus that took place there five years ago.
It was the first time many had ever heard of Chiang Mai in the world media, and for many it influenced perceptions of the city irrevocably. Suddenly considered a 'dangerous' place, it took over a year for Chiang Mai tourist figures to bounce back. Despite a few tragic incidents a year, however, it is probably one of the safer cities of its size in the world.
Which is one of the reasons the media leapt on the story like lions on a gazelle. There was a lot of meat, after all: A pretty, young, blonde girl goes on a one-year, post-uni romp around the world and two months into it gets raped and strangled in her 1 pound-a-night guest house in a quaint little town. Though many at the guest house hear late-night screams, no one does anything about it, presuming it a 'lovers' tiff'. The following day, in exchange for kickbacks from the local media, the Thai police invite a horde of reporters in to handle, trample and contaminate the evidence, making forensics impossible. Then they boldly announce that Kirsty was killed when consensual sex went wrong, going so far as to presume, publicly and incorrectly, that she was murdered for refusing anal sex.
Speculations ran wild. Some said that there were multiple types of sperm present, indicating a gang-assault. The DNA was identified to be Asian in origin. All of the male tenants of the guest house became suspects and several turned out to be drug dealers or addicts. One of the more loony suspects assaulted a reporter and claimed that the police had required them all to give them 'dick prints' - that is, a 'fingerprint' of their penises. The tension (and embarrassment) had reached a boiling point and the police promised to find the killer in ten days.
Then a bombshell dropped. Though the body was reported to the police at 4 P.M., one of the guest-house workers admitted later that she had found the body at ten that morning. Not only that, she had been specifically instructed to check that room by the establishment's owner. And as anyone who has ever travelled knows, it's far from customary to investigate a room two hours before check out time.
The English owner of the Aree had an alibi for this apparent cover-up: His visa had run out two years prior and he faced jail or deportation if the police showed up to investigate. He insisted that he needed to try and bribe the immigration department before alerting the cops. It sounded patently ridiculous. He was tossed in jail and immediately considered the prime suspect.
Two months later, without any evidence to convict him, the Englishman was released - not due to the efficient, speedy nature of the Thai legal system but because he openly paid a one xxxxxx baht bribe. Regardless of any innocence or guilt on his part, the alternative would be to languish in Thai jail for years awaiting a drawn-out trial. Wisely, he fled to France and no one has heard from him since.
In the vacuum that followed, two incredible hypotheses were put forth. The first was that there had been no rape, that the sperm had been procured elsewhere and inserted into the victim's vagina. This has happened before in Thailand, a technique to throw investigators off the scent. Police investigators even tested the hypothesis by sending agents out into the streets to buy fresh semen - they returned successfully two hours later. But subsequent British investigationsdeemed this impossible. Apparently, there is some characteristic quality that distinguishes sperm that has been ejaculated and sperm that has been injected. The British Home Office has insisted ever since that a genuine rape took place, the murder occurring concurrently as she was strangled with a sarong. The fact that two transvestites admitted two years later to supplying the sperm (not their own) was dismissed without explanation.
At present, however, there is not enough proof to convict anyone at all and multiple layers of hearsay, circumstantial evidence and mere guesswork only appear to obfuscate the truth, whatever it may have been. The police had been temporarily roused from their inertia by the high-profile arrival of Kirsty's parents, but one can be sure that once the cameramen called it a wrap, they did too.
On August 31st of this year, the Foreign Correspondents Club in Bangkok held a conference in which an English Channel 4 documentary on the subject was shown. Andrew Drummond, the Bangkok Post reporter who originally covered the story was on hand afterwards to discuss the debacle. Perhaps because he is currently fighting a libel suit (one which most journalists believe to be grossly unfair), Drummond proved reluctant to play fast and free with any theories as to who the killer actually was. He didn't believe it was the English guest-house owner and wouldn't speculate on the tourist policeman's guilt - going only so far as to say that though he had been transferred for a while, he was now back in his old job. Drummond's only evident contention was that whomever the killer is, he will probably never actually be brought to justice.
And that's where we are today. In the cult film 'The Big Lebowski', a down-and out hippie has his car stolen and inquires of the police if they have any leads. "Leads!" exclaims the policeman, laughing. "Yeah, they got us down at the station, working on shifts!" This seems to be the attitude of the police in Chiang Mai. If you want prompt, efficient and courteous service, all you have to do is drive down Huay Kaew road without a helmet. But whatever you do, don't get murdered. Any 'leads' there are will likely be trampled upon, or quite possibly even covered up by the police themselves in the interest of protecting their own.
In all fairness, Thailand is a relatively safe country for foreigners with a relatively honest police force. Of course, I am comparing it with Indonesia and Botswana, not Europe or the United States. It comes down to this: Thailand doesn't have the resources to pay for world-class civil guardians. Like anything else, you get what you pay for, and in a country where life is cheap, your life may not enjoy the same favourable exchange rate as your currency. Kirsty Jones was among the few who are assaulted annually in our beloved town, but a few is still too much, especially when their ghosts remain all too commonly unavenged. But perhaps this is just a conceit of a na?ve foreigner; Most Thais have never had any faith in their police to begin with. For them, the ghosts are all the more palpably real.