Far from the hullabaloo in Havana ahead of Barack Obama’s visit , a battered old Dodge spluttered to a halt on a steep hill overlooking Guantánamo Bay in the far south-east of Cuba.
While the 60-year-old engine cooled from its laburs, the car’s occupants wandered out to take in the distant view of US-occupied Cuban territory.
“That yellow line you see stretching across the slope is the wall that marks the border,” said a local guide. “There’s also a barrier under the water to stop boats and divers. Then over there is the base. It’s huge.”
Clusters of grey buildings sprawl out across a coastal plain. There’s a watchtower on the horizon. A ship at anchor. But in the haze of Caribbean mid-day heat, the true scale of the US navy base is hard to discern.
Once controlled by the British empire, Guantánamo is now one of the United States’ oldest and biggest overseas military facilities with two airfields, anchorage for 50 warships, about 1,400 buildings and more than 9,000 personnel.
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It is also one of the most problematic stumbling blocks in efforts by the US and Cuba to build a peaceful relationship after more than half a century of cold war conflict. But that dispute is not the only reason why
this colonial outpost will not be on Obama’s itinerary when he becomes the first president since Calvin Coolidge to visit Havana, on the other side of the island.
Guantánamo has become a symbol of US power and presidential weakness. As well as a staging post for actions in Haiti and elsewhere, the government has used it at various times for refugee processing, HIV inspections, training exercises and, most notoriously, interrogation of suspected terrorists.
Following exposés of rendition and torture, Obama has repeatedly promised to close down the Camp Delta detention facility on the base, but Congress has held up his plans. When the president arrives in Havana on Sunday, there will still be dozens of prisoners in Gitmo.
The territorial issue is certain to come up during Monday’s summit with Cuban president Raúl Castro, who has repeatedly insisted that no rapprochement will be complete without a handover of Guantánamo. Cuban sovereignty over the territory is not contested, but the US has an indefinite lease – first signed under a 1903 treaty and then revised in 1934 – that cannot be rescinded without approval of both parties. The government in Havana argues this arrangement is invalid because it was signed under duress. Since Fidel Castro came to power in 1959, it has refused to cash the annual rent payment of approximately $4,000, and instead demanded the return of the land.
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White House officials and Secretary of State John Kerry have said closing the base and returning the territory are not on the US agenda. This has not stopped speculation in the presidential campaign. Ted Cruz, a Republican candidate for president and a Cuban American, has claimed a handover is imminent. And the Republican-controlled Congress has passed a symbolic motion to protect US jurisdiction.
Residents of Guantánamo city, a sprawling municipality, on the Cuban side of the border have surprisingly mixed feelings about the debate.
From a political angle, everyone the Guardian spoke to said they wanted Cuba’s sovereignty to be respected. But many in this poor region put a higher priority on the economy and expressed a wish for the base to stay put, with reopened doors to local workers.
“If we put a Cuban base in New York City, how would people there feel?” asked retired base employee Rodi Rodriguez, who said he hates America but likes Americans.
A parts-supply worker who started at the age of 18 on 25 Cuban pesos an hour, Rodriguez knows how Guantánamo once benefited from the base. For decades, this city was dependent on employment by the US navy. Base jobs were highly prized and not given up, even during the hottest points of the Cold War.
During the 1962 missile crisis, he remembers commuting across the border each day as usual even as the US was threatening to annihilate his country with nuclear weapons.
“We never stopped working. I felt bad, but I just kept my mouth shut.” The Cuban authorities had warned them not to talk about the conflict, nor to give any excuse to the US to start hostilities.
At the very least, they should open [Guantánamo] to Cuban workers ... I’d be the first in line for a job
Up until 1964, several thousand locals worked on the base. As the conflict stretched on, those jobs were steadily scaled back. The last retired two years ago, and Guantánamo has failed to find a sufficient source of income.
Damningly for the revolution, the pension of former base workers is 50 times higher than those of former Cuban generals. “Rodriguez can live like a king here,” said one envious neighbour.
This corner of Cuba is now home to some of the poorest communities in Cuba. Many people here get by on incomes of less than 250 pesos ($10) a month, which does not go far, particularly when there are shortages of state-subsidised food.
“You have to be a magician to make ends meet,” said David Gonzales, whose family was plunged into poverty last year when his father, a former US base worker, died.
“We used to depend on dad’s US pension. Without it, life is very hard,” he said. Gonzales, whose asked not to use his real name to avoid repercussions, said he hoped the situation would improve as a result of improved ties with the US.
“Obama’s visit is a good thing. He should help us change by lifting the blockage and ending the threat of invasion. I’d like Cuba to get the base back too, so I can see the place where my father worked. At the very least, they should open it to Cuban workers. If the Americans did that, I’d be the first in line for a job. I’d do anything.”
Others try more desperate measures. The walls around the base – and other defenses, such as minefields – are not just to deter the military. They also serve to stop Cubans from fleeing across the border to seek asylum.
Residents say there are still a few cases each year, though it is extremely dangerous.
“One of my uncles swam across a few years back, but the guy he was with was killed by a floating mine,” said a Antonio Ramirez, a local resident who asked for his name to be changed. He said he too had once planned to cross.
“A friend and I spent six months training long-distance swimming so we could make it, but we abandoned our bid after seeing the dangers. There are too many mines and the guards might shoot you.”
Instead, his best hope for change is for the US to engage in the local economy in other ways. But he admits this wasn’t like to happen any time soon. “It would be great if we could get the base back and use it to develop this region. But right now, there is no economic progress so it would probably just be left unused, like other land,” he said.