8 Reasons to Put the Blue City on Your Bucket ListNovember 20, 2017 12:18 AMby
Kathryn Romeyn
Photo: Courtesy of Kathryn Romeyn
The word
magical is fairly overused today, but if there’s a place that truly epitomizes the mystical adjective it’s Chefchaouen, in the northwest of
Morocco. It’s a destination known by many—especially Instagram and Pinterest addicts—as simply the “Blue City,” and it’s perched amid the Rif Mountains, creating a dramatic landscape on approach and an ethereal atmosphere when you’re in it.
The Berber city was founded in 1471 with the construction of its walled casbah and fortress (defense against the Portuguese). Many Jews settled in medieval times, and the Spanish conquered it in the early 20th century, giving it a Spanish inflection that remains, although it’s back under the purview of Morocco now. It’s small, but Chefchaouen is by no means undiscovered. And with the proliferation of social media, its visibility is only going to rise. Here, eight reasons to go now.
1. It’s like nowhere else in the world.
Chefchaouen translates to “blue pearl,” and it’s indeed a rare, stunning gem. If you love
Santorini and other Greek villages that defy gravity with their Lego-like stacked structures on cliffs and hillsides, you’ll adore Chefchaouen. Its construction conjures nostalgia—narrow cobbled streets (sometimes even those are painted blue) and passageways with steep stairs interspersed seemingly randomly. But, of course, it’s not white, it’s blue. It feels like being in the middle of fresh snowfall if the flakes falling and coating everything happened to match the sky. Of course, the charming arched Moroccan architecture also helps make it completely one of a kind.
Photo: Courtesy of Kathryn Romeyn
2. It is a photographer’s paradise.
It’s called the Blue City, but Chefchaouen could more accurately be called the 50 Shades of Blue City, as it’s full of so many variations on a theme. Powder blue, cyan, robin’s-egg, indigo, cobalt, azure, periwinkle—it’s painted in an endless array of shades that make it feel truly alive. The reason for the photogenic and people-pleasing palette is up for debate: Some believe it was the Jews who painted it in their religion’s divine color (which represents the color of the sea and sky) after escaping Europe, while others chalk it up to blue acting as a mosquito repellent. Regardless of the reasons, the hues are subject to change as the sun moves across the sky. Dawn is perhaps the best time to head out with your camera (the streets are empty of the Berber rugs and souvenirs hanging throughout the day outside shops, and there are fewer tourists), but through the afternoon and golden hour, shadows and colors shift in ways that beg to be captured, too.
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3. The orange juice is arguably the best on earth.
Something about the Chefchaouen province produces the sweetest, juiciest oranges. Don’t miss the chance to try them with breakfast at
Lina Ryad, the chicest riad (a house with a central garden courtyard) in town, and home to not only comfortable rooftop terraces with pristine sunup and sundown vistas but a delicious freshly baked Moroccan breakfast. There’s no such thing as processed OJ here, and for a scenic view along with squeezed-to-order cups of the good stuff, head to the river, where locals gather to wash their clothes and carpets, and cafés install patrons in the shallow waters full of vibrant oranges waiting to meet their fate. (There’s also great food to be had, like at the casual, eclectic
Bab Ssour.)
Photo: Courtesy of Kathryn Romeyn
4. The locals are lovely and will insist on sharing mint tea.
The customs in Morocco are such that you will likely be offered fresh sweet mint tea multiple times a day. It may seem like a meaningless gesture, but realize that Moroccans are genuine in their desire to share a diminutive glass (or a few) with you while relaxing for a chat. You may even learn some Arabic or Berber words while you’re at it, or hear a Moroccan proverb or two.
5. It’s like a real-life cat café.
Only they’re probably not prone to let you pet them. The city’s narrow cerulean walkways are full of felines of all sizes, each one of them fluffy and fairly well fed. There are tiny kittens peeking under stools, bold tabbies jumping from one perch to the next, and snowy furballs looking sophisticated as they strut confidently away.
6. It gives you the opportunity to explore other parts of northern Morocco.
Because there is no airport, to reach Chefchaouen you have to embark on a scenic little road trip. (Experiential travel outfitter
Scott Dunn can arrange a driver and any tours that may be of interest, like of the holy town of Moulay Idriss and Roman ruins at Volubilis.) Most U.S. flights land in Casablanca, and it’s possible to fly into Fes’s new airport from there, which is a three-hour drive from the blue paradise. But don’t bypass the country’s cultural capital, home to the oldest and largest medina in the world. It’s worth at least a couple days, and it’s as real Morocco as it gets. The authentic souks and incredibly narrow “streets” are fascinating to wander through, and a tour like Scott Dunn’s Tasting Trails delivers insight and an intimacy with the culture that will serve you well throughout Morocco. Fes also boasts a rich array of Moroccan design hallmarks and intricate architecture, especially in exquisite, surprisingly affordable small hotels like
Riad Fes (a Relais & Châteaux stunner that couldn’t be more elegant) and
Palais Amani, where there are many alluring reasons to look up and down.
Roman ruins at Volubilis
Photo: Courtesy of Kathryn Romeyn
7. It’s a tranquil alternative to Marrakech.
Marrakech is the typical go-to for Americans, though the north has seen more tourism in recent years. And while one can’t deny Morocco’s most visible city is packed with great shopping and other enticing reasons to visit, it’s not always the most pleasant experience, thanks to sometimes aggressive salespeople (who can make the tradition of bargaining feel fruitless) and the occasional catcalls. Chefchaouen, by contrast, is quiet. You can wander in peace, from the inner walls of the medina to the casbah and everywhere in between, without being bothered, even while shopping for Berber rugs, woven goods, djellabas, and even rainbow-hued pigments—charmingly displayed in paper sacks—if you wish.
8. There’s a waterfall hike.
Active types shouldn’t miss the Cascades d’Akchour, a pair of waterfalls, one small and one large, nestled in the Rif Mountains about a 45-minute drive away. Hiking shoes and a decent level of fitness are necessary for the half-day adventure, which includes the opportunity to cross a natural bridge called God’s Bridge. Surrounded by lush vegetation and culminating in a crystalline turquoise pool, it is, in a word, magical.