If the above picture did make you drooling all over your keyboard, here's the deal:
For the last 2 years I've been growing a nice hot 'habanero-type pepper' specie: the Adjuma (Aji Umba) from Surinam. The first seeds came directly from friends' fields at the "Plantage Nijd & Spijt" (Plantation 'Envy & Regret') near the river Commewijne and this year the plants have produced so many peppers, I have a small surplus of seeds. Free to those who want to grow them, destroy their taste buds and want to impress, or tease their thai half.
Name: Capsicum chinense Jacquin cv. 'Aji Umba'
Synonyms: Capsicum sinense Murray, Capsicum sinense Jacq.
Common name: Aji Umba, Adjuma, Ojemma, Habanero Aji Umba, Adjoema Peppers, Adjuma Chili, Adjumba
Heat: Very Hot, 9 on a scale of 1 to 10.
See also: Official Scott Roberts Web Site - Scoville Scale for Hot Sauces and Hot Peppers
Description: These nice pods have a similar heat, aroma and flavour of the Habanero, but a more 'box-like' appearence. They average about 1 - 1.5 inches in length and ripen from a light lime green to yellow on a shrub like plant. A nice varieity to use for 'Habanero hot sauces', salsas and for drying and smoking.
The famed species Capsicum chinense, sometimes incorrectly referred to as Capsicum sinense, is known for the most pungent, yet also aromatic, chiles. Wild forms are found in South America and particularly in the Caribbean, where they have probably escaped from culture. This chile species is mostly associated with the Caribbean, where today the majority of cultivars is grown. Examples include the familiar Habanero in Cuba and Yucatán, Scotch Bonnet in Jamaica, Rocotillo on the Cayman Islands, Congo Pepper on Trinidad and Bonda Man Jacques (“Madame Jeanette”) on Martinique. Many varieties are named for their origin, e.g., Red Dominica, Jamaican hot or Trinidad seasoning pepper. There are also chinense cultivars from adjacent areas, e.g., the Datil from Florida and the Aji Umba from Suriname.
More info: Habanero chili - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
How to start: The seeds tend to take a long time to germinate, and heat is the key to speeding up the process. The chinense, being tropical plants, do best in areas with high humidity and warm nights. Wherever they are planted, however, they are slow growers, and the growing period is at least 100 days or more after transplanting for mature pods.
Plant pepper seeds in potting soil. You should plant the seeds flat, and then cover lightly with soil. Plant seeds in a warm location in pots (3 seeds to a pot, thinning to 1 plant per pot) 6 to 8 weeks before transplanting into the garden.
Water carefully as needed to keep the soil moist but not drenched. Do not water from below, as this can adversely affect germination. Covering your seed starting pots with a plastic wrap or a plastic bag upside down (do not close) to increase humidity will help the seeds to sprout.
Keep your planted seeds in a fairly warm spot while sprouting, as peppers won't even sprout if temperatures are low! I usually start them as soon as I have seeds, keep them in containers and in the shadow as long as possible. Then, somewhere May/June, they go into the soil and are watered by me and/or the annual rains. Mine give fruits from the beginning of November till late December. After this I cut them back a bit. (they are perennial)
You may see your first sprouts in about 7-14 days, but hot peppers can take as long as a month or more to come up. Pepper seeds are notorious for taking their time to germinate, or germinating at different times, and it is not unusual for some of them to surprise you and sprout several weeks after the first ones do!
Plant in morning- or afternoon-sun covered spots, in fertile well-drained soil, 50 to 60 cm. apart.
In hot climates as in Thailand, providing a sunscreen or partial shade when young can prevent sunburn and encourage vegetative growth. Do not permit seedlings or plants to suffer from drought. Mulching between plants is useful. Avoid planting where peppers, tomatoes, or eggplants grew previously. All three are members of the nightshade family and are subject to similar diseases. Peppers do well as container plants.
General culture: The key to good growth seems to be a loose soil that is well-drained but kept moist. After a few years of growing, I know to add organic matter to the garden soil in the form of aged manure and coco peat, compost, peat moss, or a combination of all three. For container soil, vermiculite and perlite are added to commercial potting soil along with a little sand to promote drainage. Don't use garden soil for containers unless it is thoroughly mixed half and half with the above mixture.
During the growing season, take care not to over-fertilize, or you will have spectacular leaf growth and few pods. Bone meal will greatly enhance appearance and make for vigorous plants. Any type of stress on the plant, such as withholding water, will tend to make the pods hotter.
Harvesting: As the plant flowers and sets fruit, there will be pods in all stages of maturity. Of course, the ripe, brightly colored pods are the most desirable, but the green pods are also good to cook with, if not quite as hot and flavorful.
If you are collecting seed, remember that only mature pods in full color will have seeds that will germinate. After picking, the length of time the pods will remain usable varies according to temperature, humidity, and storage. Fresh pods will last a week or so in the house, and a couple of weeks in the refrigerator. Clean all excess moisture off the habaneros before storing them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Inspect them every few days for mold and use them as soon as possible.
Storing: How to preserve the habanero crop? The simplest method is to wash and dry the pods and place them in a plastic bag in the freezer. They will lose some of their firmness when defrosted, but the flavor, heat, and aroma are all preserved. Habaneros can also be pureed with a little vinegar and the mixture will keep in the refrigerator for weeks.
Another common preservation method is drying the pods. They should be cut in half vertically, seeds removed, and placed in the sun for a couple of days. After they are thoroughly dried, they can be stored in jars, stored in plastic bags in the freezer, or ground into powders. Drying does not affect the heat level of the pods, but pods that are rehydrated will lose some flavor and aroma.
Remember, sauces and salsas are a great way to utilize excess habaneros from the garden! Lots of recipies on the net!
The heat: The hottest part of a pepper is the placental material surrounding the seeds. The seeds themselves are not hot, although capsaicin typically gets on the surface of the seeds from contact with the surrounding tissue.
Handling
Since habaneros have the highest concentration of capsaicin, they are the most dangerous in terms of burns. For people sensitive to capsaicin, it can cause contact dermatitis just like poison ivy. It is particularly dangerous when it comes into contact with sensitive body parts like the eyes.
If you should get capsaicin in your eyes, immediately flush them with water or an eyewash. The pain will be intense, but it will soon go away. Should your fingers or hands burn from capsaicin contact, the best treatment is to submerge them in vegetable oil.
The deal: Seeds have been drying for a couple of days now, and are ready to be labeled, go in a ziplock bag and head for you, hot-heads! PM me for a name and address and the seeds are on their way, free of charge. First come, first served.
Twice? Eat some Aji Umba and the next time you sit down on the bog, experience the 'Ring of Fire'…. I warned you!