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Our parquet floor has been damaged due to the food but i have a question regarding cementing over and replacing with tiles. This room drops about 4" below the living room, so to level it off would require quite an amount of cement and i was wondering if it would be ok just to cement straight over it once the wood has dried. Or should i rip it up to be on the safe side.
Thanks
Rip up the wood mate.
Tiles are so much more practical and don't forget to use a good ceramic adhesive and make sure the floor is perfectly clean of dust and loose material. The Weber product although a little more expensive is far better than the locally made ceramic adhesive.
Yep, we had to rip up our parquet floors in the old house after we'd been flooded.
Tiles are the way to go!
As others have said, rip it up. After the demo be sure to allow the bare concrete to dry fully. fill all cracks or gaps with sealer using epoxy if possible. Next put a coat of clear sealer over the entire surface to insure water will not enter either direction. Big job, hope you have a reliable tile person?
Thought so. Thanks people.
I thought mine had dried out but then it started to smell and a few area's started to bow a little. That wood had to go.
Sandwash is a better alternative.
Ditto!Quote:
Originally Posted by Loy Toy
Leave em down! then regret it until you eventually have to rip em up :)
If you have a 4" drop Jesus I would as others have said rip up the wood ( not easy if its been glued down properly ) then how about tanking it up to the 4" level before pouring the cement in to tile it , then IF it happens again the water wont damage up to that level .
Good luck mate
inside a house?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rigsby
not a big problem, just get a truckload pumped in (after ripping out the parquet)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesus Jones
it is always nicer to have a level floor without steps, when possible
before cementing, lay sheets of plastic down to help keep any damp out
you may have a problem if there is a door there, that would have to be refitted
You beat me to it, Dr, I always put down a plastic membrane to stop any rising damp
Quote:
Originally Posted by ltnt
Quote:
Originally Posted by FarangRed
Forgive my ignorance but if you seal the base concrete (as above) how does the tile adhesive form a proper base?Quote:
Originally Posted by DrAndy
Before I tile I always soak the tiles and splash water on the floor before I lay the tiles.
^OK LT we forgive you
the plastic membrane is to go under the new concrete slab, if he wants to do that job first
the tiles would then be laid on the concrete
splashing water on the floor and tiles is not necessary, unless you are using porous tiles
and if you use good tile adhesive, a no-no
How is that a better insulator than an inch of leveled sand?Quote:
Originally Posted by DrAndy
"unless you are using porous tiles"
I thought all tiles are porous, that's why the tiles stick to the cement by absorbing it.
A 4" drop is about standard thickness for a concrete slab or sidewalk. Rip up the wood, lay down some wire mesh, get a concrete finisher, and call a concrete truck to pour it. Easy to do and less problems later. Tile it and forget it.Quote:
Originally Posted by nigelandjan
It's known as a DPM.It's used to prevent rising damp.Quote:
Originally Posted by Loy Toy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loy Toy
by "insulator" I presume you mean damp proof course. Plastic is easier to lay and put cement on than an inch of sand, therefore more reliable
and all tiles are not porous; the back may be but the glazed front is not
porous tiles are those that breathe, like quarry tiles
as for his problem, the cheapest thing to do is lay new tiles with cement (as most tilers do in Thailand), then no need to seal or worry about any residual damp
I was talking about raising the floor level 4" as well