Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 35
  1. #1
    Member Dino's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Last Online
    16-11-2013 @ 12:51 AM
    Posts
    115

    Adding wood treads to existing concrete stairs (indoor)

    Hi Everyone!

    I'm about to cover a typical indoor concrete staircase with wooden treads (mai daeng), and only using this on the treads, leaving the exposed concrete on the riser, but I lack the knowledge to know if the Thai builder knows what he is talking about or not. Please help if you can.

    1) Do I need to insulate the bottom of the wood from the concrete to prevent rot later on? Or can I just attach them after treating the wood and that will be enough? I've read elsewhere online that used outdoors you must do this, but I can't find information regarding indoor stairs.

    2) Ideas for attaching the wood to the cement without having to put holes in the top of the wood? He wants to use small nails and wood glue. That may be enough, I don't know (but doubt it), but thought some of you have been through this before and may have a good solution that is workable here.

    The idea is like this, but the concrete would remain exposed:

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Crepitus
    Guest
    ..use a peripheral bead of construction adhesive ..like "no more nails" available in most hardware stores...Just clean the concrete of any paint or loose stuff and wash with water. Good exterior solvent based construction adhesive works on wet materials too but try to dry it off to avoid mold and speed drying.

    easy peezy..

  3. #3
    Thailand Expat
    DrAndy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Last Online
    25-03-2014 @ 05:29 PM
    Location
    yes
    Posts
    32,048
    Looks like a nice idea

    as long as the concrete steps are sealed properly (just a good cement screed without any dust), the wood can be stuck down

    as Crepitus says, construction adhesive is the best way, although I would use more than just a bead. It needs a good coverage so zigzag the adhesive all over the bottom of the step then weight down with blocks for a day
    I have reported your post

  4. #4
    Thailand Expat
    khmen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Last Online
    22-09-2017 @ 04:19 AM
    Location
    Discombobulated
    Posts
    2,435
    ^Spot on, why the builder would even consider nails for this task is beyond me. Screws would be stupid and ott but nails ffs? Into concrete?



    OP, you should film him attempting that and post it here for shits and giggles!

  5. #5
    Thailand Expat
    DrAndy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Last Online
    25-03-2014 @ 05:29 PM
    Location
    yes
    Posts
    32,048
    Quote Originally Posted by Dino
    Or can I just attach them after treating the wood and that will be enough?
    I just read this bit

    if you treat the wood with anything other than a water based insecticide, you may find the adhesive will not stick

    you may not even need to treat it if the stairs are indoors

  6. #6
    Thailand Expat
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Last Online
    13-09-2017 @ 02:28 PM
    Location
    Ballarat Australia
    Posts
    1,209
    There are concrete nails, they are very hard and can shatter, user should wear safety glass.
    But then when l think about it, l havent seen Thai's wearing safety glasses at any time, scares me to watch them.

  7. #7
    Thailand Expat
    DrAndy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Last Online
    25-03-2014 @ 05:29 PM
    Location
    yes
    Posts
    32,048
    yeah, I tried using them to nail my drive down but it still drove away

  8. #8
    Thailand Expat
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Last Online
    13-09-2017 @ 02:28 PM
    Location
    Ballarat Australia
    Posts
    1,209
    While we are talking about steps,, l notice many steps built in Thailand, have a very short step width ( depth, the part you put your foot on ), this make for a stairs very difficult to walk up or down.
    Step tread's as a rule, should have a depth of about 260 mm, with the riser at 160 mm or there abouts. lf this simple rule is followed, you will find the stairs much earier to negotiate

  9. #9
    On a walkabout
    Loy Toy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 10:35 AM
    Posts
    26,310
    Selleys liquid nails, available at most hardware stores is brilliant for such applications.

    Just make sure everything is clean, dry and dust free.

  10. #10
    Thailand Expat
    Kurgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 05:05 PM
    Location
    Shitsville
    Posts
    8,782
    I've got wood covered stairs and risers but must say I prefer the look of those without the risers covered.

  11. #11
    Member Dino's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Last Online
    16-11-2013 @ 12:51 AM
    Posts
    115
    Thanks everyone for the input.

    Quote Originally Posted by Crepitus View Post
    ..use a peripheral bead of construction adhesive ..like "no more nails" available in most hardware stores...Just clean the concrete of any paint or loose stuff and wash with water. Good exterior solvent based construction adhesive works on wet materials too but try to dry it off to avoid mold and speed drying.

    easy peezy..
    And bypass any nails/screws?

    Quote Originally Posted by DrAndy View Post
    Looks like a nice idea

    as long as the concrete steps are sealed properly (just a good cement screed without any dust), the wood can be stuck down

    as Crepitus says, construction adhesive is the best way, although I would use more than just a bead. It needs a good coverage so zigzag the adhesive all over the bottom of the step then weight down with blocks for a day
    I think the more the better too. I'd hate for him to try to save me a few baht and the stairs comes unglued.

    Quote Originally Posted by khmen View Post
    ^Spot on, why the builder would even consider nails for this task is beyond me. Screws would be stupid and ott but nails ffs? Into concrete?



    OP, you should film him attempting that and post it here for shits and giggles!
    Yea, he wants to use little nails. That was when flags went up. He's generally a pretty good guy to have working but this idea didn't seem right.

    Quote Originally Posted by DrAndy View Post

    if you treat the wood with anything other than a water based insecticide, you may find the adhesive will not stick

    you may not even need to treat it if the stairs are indoors
    Interesting. That just poked a whole in the plans.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mozzbie47 View Post
    There are concrete nails, they are very hard and can shatter, user should wear safety glass.
    But then when l think about it, l havent seen Thai's wearing safety glasses at any time, scares me to watch them.
    No glasses, no gloves, and the cheapest flip-flops they can find. Somehow most of them amazingly make it home from work every day with no injury.

    We had a bunch of black slate that needed to be broken into smaller pieces (used on a balcony floor, embedded in concrete), but the edges were very sharp, and as they broke them with a hammer, little pieces were flying around. I told the foreman to stop, I'd run to the store to buy them all gloves and safety glasses, and he said "mai pen rai" and pulled out his Siam Commercial insurance card that covered him for up to 50,000b. lol

    Oh well. You can only lead a horse to water.

  12. #12
    Member Dino's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Last Online
    16-11-2013 @ 12:51 AM
    Posts
    115
    Quote Originally Posted by Kurgen View Post
    I've got wood covered stairs and risers but must say I prefer the look of those without the risers covered.
    I tried to find a better photo to show as an example but could not find one online that only had exposed concrete. We like the look a lot. We saw it used in a few guesthouses in Chiang Mai a few months ago. With the rest of the decor using wood and concrete, it really had a nice urban yet earthy feel to it.

  13. #13
    Thailand Expat

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 11:30 PM
    Posts
    34,252
    Quote Originally Posted by Dino
    Oh well. You can only lead a horse to water.
    You can send a whore to Vassar...but you can't make her think...

  14. #14
    Thailand Expat
    DrAndy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Last Online
    25-03-2014 @ 05:29 PM
    Location
    yes
    Posts
    32,048
    she might be a smart whore

  15. #15
    Crepitus
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by DrAndy View Post
    Looks like a nice idea

    as long as the concrete steps are sealed properly (just a good cement screed without any dust), the wood can be stuck down

    as Crepitus says, construction adhesive is the best way, although I would use more than just a bead. It needs a good coverage so zigzag the adhesive all over the bottom of the step then weight down with blocks for a day
    Yup use as much as ya need for sure but too much will oooze out and YOU will have to clean it off before it dries like a rock...good idea to check for levels/valleys with a straaight edge so not to waste your expensive goo filling up holes left by the your builder or... A screed of cement, as mentioned ,would be a good leveler if too far out of whack..of course check your step board for warping too.

    Had our builder use ca for our cement compound skirting boards..used a whole [at]#$%^ tube in 3 metres,!! Then started using the silicone I had bought for the bathtub......actually it did work ..but a negligible load application...

  16. #16
    Member Dino's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Last Online
    16-11-2013 @ 12:51 AM
    Posts
    115
    Another posted mentioned that treating the wood may cause the glue to not stick properly. Anyone have any experience with this? In theory it sounds correct, but Thailand often defies logic, so I have to assume anything is possible. :-)

  17. #17
    Thailand Expat
    dirtydog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Last Online
    @
    Location
    Pattaya Jomtien
    Posts
    58,782
    Quote Originally Posted by Dino
    And bypass any nails/screws?
    Nope, the concrete will not be level, the risers will be different heights, you will need to use shims to make the planks level, then drill and screw them into the concrete, obviously recess the screw hole and fill.

  18. #18
    ................... sunsetter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Last Online
    23-01-2017 @ 01:18 AM
    Location
    underneath the sun
    Posts
    7,027
    nice idea that, spot on

  19. #19
    Thailand Expat
    dirtydog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Last Online
    @
    Location
    Pattaya Jomtien
    Posts
    58,782
    Here's one I made earlier.


  20. #20
    Member Dino's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Last Online
    16-11-2013 @ 12:51 AM
    Posts
    115
    Quote Originally Posted by dirtydog View Post
    Here's one I made earlier.

    That looks very nice. How did you attach the tread to the concrete under it, or is this a full wooden staircase?

  21. #21
    Thailand Expat
    dirtydog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Last Online
    @
    Location
    Pattaya Jomtien
    Posts
    58,782
    Drilled and screwed it into the concrete, this one cost well over 100k, teakwood and stainless.

  22. #22
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Last Online
    20-01-2012 @ 05:02 PM
    Posts
    56

    treads

    if I was to do this job I would look at dovetail metal strips 50% thickness of the tread screwed into place from riser to 20mil from edge of tread . Dovetail the underneath of the tread with a router to the same length of metal bars . The tread just slides into place & is secured by useing strong resin to hold the tread in place .
    This method is much safer as it stops the tread from tipping in the event of the resin failing at a future date

  23. #23
    Member Dino's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Last Online
    16-11-2013 @ 12:51 AM
    Posts
    115
    Quote Originally Posted by Yogi View Post
    if I was to do this job I would look at dovetail metal strips 50% thickness of the tread screwed into place from riser to 20mil from edge of tread . Dovetail the underneath of the tread with a router to the same length of metal bars . The tread just slides into place & is secured by useing strong resin to hold the tread in place .
    This method is much safer as it stops the tread from tipping in the event of the resin failing at a future date
    That is a great idea. Any reason why you would use metal strips instead of wood, then using wood glue to attach the strip with the tread?

  24. #24
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Last Online
    20-01-2012 @ 05:02 PM
    Posts
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by Dino View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Yogi View Post
    if I was to do this job I would look at dovetail metal strips 50% thickness of the tread screwed into place from riser to 20mil from edge of tread . Dovetail the underneath of the tread with a router to the same length of metal bars . The tread just slides into place & is secured by useing strong resin to hold the tread in place .
    This method is much safer as it stops the tread from tipping in the event of the resin failing at a future date
    That is a great idea. Any reason why you would use metal strips instead of wood, then using wood glue to attach the strip with the tread?
    Using metal strips is more to do with strengh . Also the termite factor as they do seem to enjoy wood .
    The only other way I would do this job is to get a plug cutter & cutt wood plugs from scraps of the same timber as the treads .Then drill countersink fix tread & plug . This would mean that all woodstaining would have to be done after fixing.

    Another way of putting strenth into the tread is to put metal dowls into the rear edge (edge to meet riser) & drill holes into concret to accept the dowls. It is importent that the tread have that extra stength to stop it from tipping. The only time it will tip is when somebody steps on it so safety is a must .

  25. #25
    Member ChrisInCambo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Last Online
    17-01-2014 @ 04:51 PM
    Location
    Phnom Penh
    Posts
    174
    I'm having some stairs fitted at the moment that only have wood on the treads and no the riders, I really like that look. Feels a little more modern than a full wood staircase, also cheaper ;-)



    I'll take another pic in a couple of days when it's done. It should look something like this when it's done:



    They screwed the treads down with concrete screws, then put wood filler on top of the screws, they did something similar in our wardrobes and after it's been stained and varnished you can't even spot where the screws were.

    The problem in this part of the world is that the wood isn't usually left to dry for long enough so tends to bow. So best to make sure it's really screwed down. One of might mates had his whole kitchen made from the local teak and now two years on, not one of the doors close properly.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •