But has he had a shower yet?Originally Posted by crippen
But has he had a shower yet?Originally Posted by crippen
Ok I have unmounted the unit, and there was a smell of burn inside
so apparently the issue is more than a replacement, there seems to be something wrong with the power
either it's the LIVE and NEUTRAL that have been reversed, or it's something else. The problem is we can't detect if it's something else.
Is there some tools to test the wire to see if they properly setup and grounded ?
that would not make anything burnOriginally Posted by Butterfly
but you had a wire burnt out before, maybe that is the remnant smell?
Mulitimeter and earth ground tester will do the trick. Decent multi meter not very expensive and a must have for anyone doing periodic electrical work. Around 5,000 baht. Good earth ground tester expensive. 40,000 to 50,000 baht. This you can probably get along without.Originally Posted by Butterfly
Last edited by Norton; 12-03-2011 at 12:03 PM.
Seems the case. Problem could be in any number of places. You really need a multimeter to figure out where.Originally Posted by Butterfly
never had one - what would I do with it?Originally Posted by Norton
just an electrical screwdriver is good, shows if anything live or not - B85
found a test screwdriver, that's the first step
not sure how a multimeter would be useful unless it's for testing the output voltage and see if it's below or above 220V
if it's below 200V, I assume it could mean that there is a power leak somewhere
ok I noticed something else, the LIVE wire was "dark" or "burnt" again, indicating another meltdown
Originally Posted by DrAndyCarry on gents. Screwdriver will do just fine I'm sure. Maybe.Originally Posted by Butterfly
^presumably you mean a screwdriver with a neon in it; which certainly beets the more fatal finger test.
Butters, you almost certainly need to replace the cable between he wall and the heater with something a bit thicker.
just at the junction, or elsewhere?Originally Posted by Butterfly
just at the end of the LIVE wire,
so the contact at the junction was no good, for some reason
cut that portion of wire off and fit the new bit into the box again
make sure it is screwed up tight
^ it was already, I suspect it's something else
look at the pics, nothing was loose
Space booked in the "-farang-deaths-in-thailand-2011" thread.
where the cable joints are often the points of highest resistance on a cable run and therefore the most vulnerable to damaged when the cable is overloaded
Or the gauge of the wire insufficient to carry current. If this the case visible over heating will occur at connections.Originally Posted by DrAndy
This problem has now occurred twice. As suggested by another member, I would replace the wire from the wall to the heater with a larger gauge. A cheap fix and even if not the problem would eliminate the possibility the wiring size is the problem.
"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect,"
I think you should fill it with sea water and allow it to cool down.
And to be on the safe side build a 3 foot concrete containment wall with lead lining.
Can't be too careful with these things
yet the same wire was used for 5 years on the other unit without a problem,Originally Posted by Norton
I feel it's something else,
Butters, lots of people are telling you what the problem likely to be. whats the point in asking for advice if you going to ignore even consensus advice? Just do what you want and take the consequences.
what advice ? to get a good electrician ? that's like asking for the good fairy here, it's unrealisticOriginally Posted by hazz
unless you could explain intelligently how to detect the cause of the "leak" or "burn", I don't see any advice in this thread. The multimeter has been suggested and I might do that, but nobody explained what to be expected from the measures of the LIVE wire
if the wire IS too thin, then it would have to be replaced right back to the consumer unitOriginally Posted by Norton
maybe the old unit was slightly less powerful?Originally Posted by Butterfly
from the specs, they are the same, 6000WOriginally Posted by DrAndy
Plenty if you care to try some of the suggestions.Originally Posted by Butterfly
You need to explain the symptoms more clearly. Aside from the heater itself being faulty there are two reasons it is not working. Bad electrical connection or insufficient water flow.
If you want help, need to do a step by step diagnosis. Use the screw driver if you want but keep in mind it will only tell you there is voltage but not how much.
You have a Panasonic model DH-6GM2W-T. Correct?
Remove the shower head if not too much trouble. Place your mixer in the full hot position and turn on to full flow. Does the light on the front of heater come on?
Last edited by Norton; 13-03-2011 at 05:29 PM.
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