I'm not an 'ex' sparky...I am still a sparky. And after undergoing an engineering diploma, I not only still remember & can use all of the skills regarding general wiring, I am also able to solve technical problems.
I'm not an 'ex' sparky...I am still a sparky. And after undergoing an engineering diploma, I not only still remember & can use all of the skills regarding general wiring, I am also able to solve technical problems.
For 6kw the cable is not big enough.
Originally Posted by EssEffBeeOriginally Posted by Thetyimso, electrical know how is nothing?Originally Posted by EssEffBee
suits BF
Originally Posted by EssEffBee
I suspect one wire was cut when I was trying to fit them into the unit, will investigate that
and possibly the LIVE and NEUTRAL being switched since I followed the monkey previous installation, which might have been fucked up
the wire thickness is fine, this has already been established, this is a replacing unit, not a new installation
Its possible and easy to identify if its happened. BTW butters; you cannot just assume that the colour of the live wire at the distribution board corresponds to that in the bathroom. Ive seen them jointing high current cables, mid run, and swap other colours round at the same time.
I've noticed that thai electricians seem to think that both phases are the same and that its fine to swap them round. I am thinking asking the next electrition that tells me this to earth the neutral through himself and then demonstrate to me his conviction that the live wire will have the same effect.
Get your information from ESSEFFBEE if he is still a sparky.As I stated I was an ex one but not a stupid ex one and when I see green used as positive/active I sort of get nervous what else they may have done.
Thanks Aussie Tigger
I only answer electrical questions if I am asked to answer them. If somebody wishes to pursue their own 'answers', good luck to them.
For them, the end result maybe a brief bzzzzt sound followed by death. On the other hand, they may not hear anything at all & simply die from electrocution.
Last edited by EssEffBee; 07-03-2011 at 12:19 AM.
Idiots! I'm surrounded by idiots!
Butterfly would merely melt a little
need to take the unit apart, I hope it's not damage
will need a LIVE tester, obviously I can't rely on the previous monkeys installation
We are in full agreement on this.Originally Posted by Butterfly
4 days without a shower. Must be losing friends fast.
^ me excluded of course
I have 3 bathroom,
nice try,
no, I agree with NortonOriginally Posted by Butterfly
I did put a "s" on monkeys
anyway, make sure you have live current (maybe the breaker has flipped?)
if you have, make sure your connections are tight. If it was working before and the above are OK, then the unit is faulty
Butters, did you ensure that the polarity of the supply is correct to this heating unit?
And while your at it, please specify what cable was used & the size of the circuit breaker protecting the cable.
Also, is it a circuit breaker that protects the circuit or an RCBO? If it's an RCBO (which it should be), what is the trip current?
Last edited by EssEffBee; 09-03-2011 at 06:03 PM.
the CB is 32A and the cable thickness was mentioned before and it was good
^EssEffBee, its a bit unkind using your expertise to snipe at him when hes getting it wrong and not help him back onto the right path, unless he directly asks.
Butters he does have a point. a 32A breaker should be protecting a cable that is ateased 6mm2, if its in a wall, and 4mm2 on the wall. 6mm2 cable is very thick and its not what you have got in the wall, the cable between the wall and the unit is 2.5mm and you don't protect that with a 32A breaker.
Butters this is very very important you do have a breaker that looks like one of these somewhere between the main breaker and the heater cable leaving the fusebox. Its designed to cut the electricity should there be 30ma more going into the bathroom than coming out. this missing electricity might be going to earth though you and without this device you might end up joining a very non-exclusive club of people killed by their water heaters in thailand. Its also a requirement under thai elec reg's I am told.
The CB is there, not sure I have to repeat it
and it's on, not off, it didn't go off
get man in
^^I know butters, but CB's don't normally have 30ma leakage trips in them; they just protect the cable from overload damage. It does have a little 'test' button on it don't it?
Nearly a month now,and Butters is still alive!
I'm sure there is a punchline to go with thatOriginally Posted by Butterfly
Butters,
It's taken many posts & 2 threads for you to tell your saga about the faulty hot water unit. Did you really need to start a new thread?
At the end of the day & for a 6kW water heater, you MUST have 6mm squared copper cable supplying this water heater. The device that protects both you & the cable, MUST be an RCBO/RCCB (combination RCD & circuit breaker), the rating of which should be;
1] 32 amp and,
2] a maximum of 30mA (thirty milliamps).
Ideally, this device will be 'double pole', which means that a seperate 'earth bar' in the distribution board is not required.
The fact that you seem to have bugger all electrical knowledge is a problem because unless you know what you are doing, you may not be able to 'appropriately' connect the cables into their respective connections (amongst other things).
I sincerely hope that you or nobody else, ever dies from your DIY work.
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