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  1. #101
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    Thanks. I was looking for info. a little more specific to my own needs and rooms, but i have checked it out.

    I am still confused about consumer units and using split C/U's etc, my main worry is safe protection for my family. I have read that Rcbo's are the safest module to use and most practical because only that circuit trips if fault. The compromise is that they are expensive, but i presume that you dont need them on all circuits just those that are your main concern.

    I have read that a M.E.N system being installed would be the other significant advantage in protection, running earths with live and neutral and an earthing rod.

    Does anyone have any significant understanding to elaborate more so i can safeguard ourselves better by making sure the electrician will apply this?

    Many thanks
    im hot its so hot today.......milk was a bad choice!

  2. #102
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    Reconstruction of plan with ms paint because i have doodled on the plans too much.

    So this is the most current plan to date although a talk with the wife has just made us change it again when i have this i will post and get some reaction.

    The basic premise is that the main house which ends with the stairs that go into the main lounge, is the top floor, and the main lounge is on a intermidiate level to link both bottom and top floors.

    We are still trying to arrange rooms and get the best layout as we have changed the house and extended certain parts since the inital brief.

    The lower floor is less problematic because it will be open apart from a downstairs bathroom. It will be partitioned by woven bamboo panels to allow spaces for :

    Kitchen
    Dining room
    3rd Lounge
    Bathroom

    We will have the front of house ground level with a second door that secures it from the front with a wall exterior, but will be open at the back and surround to allow air flow and and an open feel.

    more pics to come.

  3. #103
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    The ground floor plan above

  4. #104
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    This is obviously the best reccomended solution im being told but is expensive.



    This is compromised with only critical circuits having RCBO protection.

    Can anyone suggest prefrences or cons to the above with relation to the list i gave earlier?

    Does anyone know the cost of RCBO's in thailand i think in UK they start at 12 each, but then if this will greatly improve safety im not too bothered.
    cheers

  5. #105
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    Ben this subject could take up pages and I dare say people will disagree, but if you are counting pennies the second option is ok. I dont know the price difference but if its not excessive I would go for option 1.

  6. #106
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    Hi, I think that its not about money but what is safe and practical and understood.

    The wiring diagrams above follow the latest edition Wiring regs fo UK so they are not probably what is actualy practised in Thailand, if even close to.

    However if this is a proper way of making electircty safe and practical for use (RcBO cut out only the circuit not the rest of the board) then it surely would be an option.

    I still need to know a litle more input and whether people have info on Earthing rods and M.E.N links?

    Also as we are doing Water and Electrics in the next stages i have a curious question?



    Would this traditional style vlave shower tap be ok to bring from uk and use in Thailand on the basis of using a Stiebel multi unit heater?

    The setup for our water currently is Deep well - pump - water tank - house pump - heater.....

    Any plumbing and electrical nuance will be much appreciated...

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by benlovesnuk
    Would this traditional style vlave shower tap be ok to bring from uk and use in Thailand on the basis of using a Stiebel multi unit heater?

    The setup for our water currently is Deep well - pump - water tank - house pump - heater.....
    You need to check what the minimum operating pressure (head of water) of this mixer is,and then see if your intended system is up to it. At a guess I would say the fittings for it are probably 1/2 inch bsp male iron. As yet I haven't done any plumbing in Thailand so cant comment on what they use or have available.
    SCROTUM PASS ME PISTOL

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by bankao dreamer View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by benlovesnuk
    Would this traditional style vlave shower tap be ok to bring from uk and use in Thailand on the basis of using a Stiebel multi unit heater?

    The setup for our water currently is Deep well - pump - water tank - house pump - heater.....
    You need to check what the minimum operating pressure (head of water) of this mixer is,and then see if your intended system is up to it. At a guess I would say the fittings for it are probably 1/2 inch bsp male iron. As yet I haven't done any plumbing in Thailand so cant comment on what they use or have available.
    The minimum is 0.1 bar which should be absolutley fine, we are having a pump fitted for the house so i would have thought this should be fine.

    Nearly back and ready to finish the house..... hopefully!

  9. #109
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    Here are more pics, a building here we go:



    Here we are with the house, now its a bit of a spot the difference from last time, but we are only in to the small details starting back up again from last year.

    So we have:



    Concrete slab poured! But how did we get to this i hear you ask?



    We make a ditch along the perimeter and fill with bricks, we use the rebar to keep strength with the concrete whilst the bricks act as a stable footing. Unfortunately for now my other photos of this are not loading, so we will have to imagine the next steps.

    Next the area is shuttered and clamped and ready for the folly of buckets and cement. When this is set the area needs constant wetting to make sure the concrete cures properly.

    Once this was done the family team set about filling the internal area with sand, 3 loads were dumped and one woman shovelled it all into place. All in all we are covering a space 8m wide x 11m long. Quite amazing really! Ive done labouring and it broke me, so for a Lady older then me to stack that sand whilst her hasband got the drinks is a big respect to her. She didnt even break sweat!

    More pics:



    We are thinking about having a hand painted tile applied to certain areas on the floor space, they will be encircled by plain clay tiles smaller to frame. This is to break up the cost as to just use handpainted tiles would have cost 87,500 baht.



    this is the end for now! bonsoir

  10. #110
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    Its all coming together nicely Ben, looking forward to more photos. We should be moving to Thailand in about 6 to 8 weeks and I cant wait to start our house.

  11. #111
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    Thanks, we are loving the house now and realised some important information after getting our hands dirty getting this thing built, that we can take with us in the future!
    The floorboards are going down, and the walls up too.

    We went to a new wood yard, initially to find out the costs. I was shocked to realise the price for good Mai Daeng (red wood) was about 5 times that of old wood.

    The reason for the new wood was that it could ordered and cut more specific to the job that the builder needed. However at this price, even though we would know how much it would cost, the cost would have given me a heart attack.

    We have instead bought Mai Daeng and Teak for a lot less, and in fact because we bought a good bunch and we know the wood yard owner we got a very good deal. I would always reccomend that you shop around and get to know people in trade, it helps to get people on your side.

    Its always a pleasure to go to the wood yard, and i look forward to our next visit when we need some more wood.

    cheers everyone..

  12. #112
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    Right its time for more photos and update:

    We had a skirmish on our hands it seemed with the builders, not the nice old man builder but his partner. We have effectively now squeezed him out of the contract and finished that off early and restarted with our neighbour the old man builder.

    So we are full throttle again for improving the stages of build.

    What we have left to do, well let see...


    This is the lower floor Toilet, the septic tank is concealed directly below. It is recessed so that it can be hidden by the raised floor that will be in this area, and accessed through a hatch. We decided that for the wife and myself and my son a 1600 litre capacity septic from Dos.

    We bought this from Global house, who gave us a fantastic discount and extra bits for summer offer they run.

    The reason for putting the septic under the house is that it is concreted into place and not below in the area behind which can flood. This area is open to the wind and is effectively an outside space apart from the enclosed toilet area.



    Looking from the back of the house in the part that will be the extension to the old house we bought. Now you can see the concrete slab poured and being kept wet for curing. Overall the bottom downstairs space of the old house is 88m2, this will be increased in part 2 of the build with the extensions.

    The main consideration is the poles for the old house, which are full of character it was important we used the old posts for this reason. They need stripiing back but are rock solid at there core. We will concrete or brick the bottom of the surround posts because they are irregular shapes. but more of that later in the finishing section.


    The floors for the open upstairs living area, you can see the details of the old house coming through, like the raised platform from the walkway, not only will this add to the character its important for internal ventilation. It will be covered by a mesh, grate to stop pests etc getting in.



    Here we have the master bedroom, The internal space is 6 m long by 4.5 m wide, the floor is a very thick and old Mai daeng (red wood), and the wall cladding is also an old Teak wood. Both of these were bought new from the sale of the house. You can see there are still walls to be done...The walls will be clad on the internal wall this will hide all wiring, and have insulation batons inserted to improve air con effeciency for the future.



    Here is the same picture of the bedroom with the walls and windows that have recently been erected. The windows and windows frames and glas are from the original house. The wood for floors and the wood panelling for walls were all bought new. It is old wood and we got a fantastic deal from a wood yard dealer, the same wood new for top quality stuff would have cost 5 times the price per meter square.

    Because its not new wood it doesnt need to settle and wont stretch as much, the boards for the floor were toungue and grooved to fit together, the buldr isnt now charging us for this. How nice



    end wall shot.



    Here you can see a shot looking out to the back of the house and beyond.

    We are still look for some old red wood to fit to the floors for the ensuite bathroom the back left and the rest of the walkway to extension area. Once we have this theycan start to run the framework for the wall to the extension.

    At the moment we are still playing around with ideas for internal spacing as to how we will use the spaces effectively. So we wont have a more solid layout until i am back in June to see how they feel.



    Same view opposite end of house.



    outside finishes, we really wanted horizontal panelling(cladding) because it looks better in our opinion. This will have a nice finsh to it once we put some protection and finishing agent on it. I hope to bring out the colour rather then paint it the horrible colours you see about the place.



    Exterior finishing close up.

    Well thats about it for now we are at current stages at the moment, we need to buy some more wood for front 2nd sala floor. We also need to buy the rest of the wood for the back of the house and wall, then we should have a near enough complete structure. When i come back in June we will start electric and plumbing, as well as some multi room audio distribution and cinema room...!!!!

    Oh i forgot.....

    The front sala needed extending the roof to cover the bottom 2nd sala for guest seating. We needed to place a wood pole in place to take the load and run extra wood we had left over from main roof including batons and tiles for the extension.



    Here you can see out towards the land and the front of the land. Here you can see the sale roof be extended out to cover the stair well run, the stairs will be made from high Quality Mai Daeng new wood. With a banister rail running all around the front terrace and down the stairwell. But more of that later when its done...

    For now thats it, enjoy and any comments welcome.

    cheers

  13. #113
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    coming along nicely, Ben

    as you are using lots of different woods besides teak, make sure that you protect the house from termites

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    sorry wrong topic

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrAndy View Post
    coming along nicely, Ben

    as you are using lots of different woods besides teak, make sure that you protect the house from termites
    Hi Dr A, we are using old Teak and Old mai Daeng, thats pretty much it apart from the front stairs which is new cut (40 year old mai daeng). What do you think is best if i want to keep the natural colour of the woods?

    I went by your way when i was home in Feb, Big house and took some inspiration from your bamboo lined eaves, might try this as a temporary measure until we can get the right wood. Any sugesstions?

    Cheers

  16. #116
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    We are now selling this as we are following our business expansion into the city. Please look at the chiangmai section for classifieds for any information.

    We are selling in 2 options:

    Just land 250 tw (1000 m2) = 10,000 baht = 2.5 lahn/million baht

    land and teak wood house total price = 4.5 lahn/million baht not fully finished which is reflected in the price.

    A real quality wood house

    more current pics to follow.

    thanks

  17. #117
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    We are going to finish the house, and live in it and make use of it, but if someone is still interested when finished please let me know. cheers . Here are some shots of the house:



    You can see a man on the steps, he is our builder, very good man!







    hopefully more to come soon....

  18. #118
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    After all this effort why exactly, are you selling it ?

  19. #119
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    I know i feel very sad about this. But it is why we have the options for land and or house. We have loved building and dont mind at the right price, building again and enjoying the experience. However we need funds for our business and this is fast growing.....

    I am in 2 minds at the moment but if someone offers me full price for the land and house i make take it, but from the latest pictures its very hard postion to be in.

    I love your house by the way, lovely wood and amazing setting Janda....

  20. #120
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    If someone could help me with electronics and wiring and plumbing i might not sell and in which case give you lovely people some more pictures.....any takers???

    Ill post some google sketchup fun ive been having... here you go!











    cheers

  21. #121
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    We are cleared for section 3 out of 4 of this build, We are moving to finish the main house, add the extension and finish up the perimeter walls, gate and maybe start an in between project of mini guesthouse section 4(comprising of 1 or 2 rice barns for renting).

    Before i get carried away and take this build to the end of this century, i have taken a difficult decision, to use superbloc on the bottom levels. We were hoping to use adobe brick, and i still have hope we can use this fantastic material. But we shall see?

    Check out Chiangmai Life construction website for more info on natural building methods.

    The bottom would be sparingly blocked, mixing in wood folding doors to break up the concrete look. We are now looking to change the layout slightly with a kitchen across the whole bottom extension, opening out to a deck and various small garden areas.
    in the main house we will have open lounge with a mixture of fabrics and textiles from Asia to break up the hard concrete look.
    Upstairs we will have front terrace, leading to inside/outside terrace lounge/library. Then to the 2 bedrooms and en-suites. We hope to finish sometime in February/march.

    To date we have spent the following:
    Land plot 1 = 150 tarangwa chiangmai muang 800,000
    (We got the land filled for us, and wall built to protect the government drain total 350,000 for free from the land owner)
    Land plot 2 = 100 tarangwa 333,000
    All teak wood house Phrae 225,000
    wood (old, teak, mai daeng) 350,000
    new wood (roof) 120,000
    Labour 250,000
    Wall posts, gate (temporary) 30,000
    well (28 meters deep) 8,000
    Tiles concrete 44,000
    bathroom set(2 toilets, 2 sinks) 11,000
    shower, tap fittings (uk bought) 60,000
    hitachi pump 250w 4,500
    dox water tank (1500l) 7,500
    Dox septic tank (1800) 7,000
    Other concrete etc 80,000
    Total so far 2,330,500.


    I hope this helps anyone interested in prices.

    Lastly, i will put a new picture up in 1 week when i can see the house, as it is now.

    Cheers

    Ben

  22. #122
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    In hot humid climates a non-perforated (vapor barrier) type radiant barrier is NEVER recommended in the interior of the structure.The ONLY appropriate placement of a vapor barrier type radiant barrier in hot humid climates in on the outside of the exterior sheathing (hot side of the insulation).


    Some useful illiterate advice there from wiki. I am looking to put a radiant barrier on both the cathedral ceiling and exterior walls that face east, west and south. I know i need about 1" of airspace for good reflectivity, i can also insulate (bedrooms only) after this barrier to maximize aircon efficiency. Then an interior Teak cladding will be used to finish off.
    Only the main house bedroom will have a ceiling the rest of the internal spaces will be exposed to the cathedral ceiling. The roof will of course have a radiant barrier, with airgap that will intake from the eaves and condition the roof space. I have gable ventilation and not roof ventilation(although 1 gable end is effectively outside as it is a terrace).
    The roof in the main house will have no insulation, but a radiant barrier and then internally some sort of board with bamboo finish.

    Can anyone see a problem with this? I will be At the house on Wednesday to take some pics for more visual guidance.

    The ceiling space above the main house bedroom will not be enclosed, call this bedroom 1. This is to give a more open feeling from within the main house first floor lounge. Insulation will be laid on top, as it would in a dropped ceiling in attic, but will not be enclosed.
    The ceiling over the extension bedroom, will probably be a cathedral ceiling, with radiant barrier and insulation enclosed to exterior walls and roof. We havent done this yet. So still time to get this right!

    Also we have a raised structure within the interior with a walkway running from front terrace to back bedroom and extension. Bedroom 1 and lounge terrace are raised about 20 cms this also allows air to flow up through the main house giving good ventilation at all times. This will be meshed to stop all creatures great and small from entering and will be panel over apart from an 1' or 2 gap for air flow.

  23. #123
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    Ok so this is time to update, of the process over the last 5 months:


    Here is the front of the house, we have a lot of collected doors windows and wood for building. We have an industrial planner and a water tank.


    Here you can see the bottom sala/stair seat, the only new wood was for roof and steps and is mai daeng(redwood).


    Here you can see hidden the top sala seating area. you can also see hints of the detail put up for screening the sun out along the ridge of the roof space.



    Again here you can see the Eave of the top sala, it supported by a very nicely carved and simple designed support. The wood is teak as is 90% of the house, and it is from the house we brought in phrae. A light from Bor Sang handcrafts has been customised into a electrical light socket. Again simple design.



    This is to the left of the front terrace looking at the house with window to 2nd bedroom, again all of the cladding is Teak whilst the floor is Mai daeng, Mai pa du. The light wiring pipe in yellow you can see will be covered by wood and be invisible when finished.


    To the right looking at the house, we have the main entrance which is a very tall door we found in Sam Kampaeng. You can see electrical sockets in and wiring for lights hanging out to be connected. When seated on the sala seat and the door is open through the house you can see Doi Suthep temple.

    Well thats its for the front, the next post will be inside........

  24. #124
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    Looks really nice.

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    Here we have the inside of the main house, this comprises the inside raised level terrace and the 2nd bedroom with en-suite and walk in wardrobe.

    Here you can see the length of the terrace and the split level walkway.


    This is outside the bedroom door about half way and looking at the door to master bedroom and outside terrace folding doors. The extension for this is yet to be built.


    Here we have the cottage size teak door for the ensuite, it is a step down so the 1.75 cm door is ok for me (185cm), and gives a nice vernacular feel to the house. Pipes are already in for suite.



    Here you can see both the ensuite and the walk in wardrobe, they are about 2.8 m x 2.5 in size, but when inside feel reasonably sized as the walls are on the outside of the wood posts.


    Here you can see the data entry for cat5e cable, telephone, and electrical swith for lighting. This wardrobe will have small fridge, and be the central distribution system for networking and wireless in the house.


    Here we have the bedroom fully clad in Teak, the electrical switches are from HAco and are thier T&J range in charcoal black.


    This is a before shot of the wiring, we are using red(live), white(neutral) and green (earth). We are also using metal boxes and yellow pastic piping to run.



    Inside the 2nd bedroom ensuite we have the cold and hot water pipes for the bathroom. blue for cold water, and copper for hot water. We have a mixer shower and this will be fed for now from an electric heater from AEG. The shower is a glass cube shower that will sit on a concrete made tray to be more minimal then white plastic.

    More to be uploaded soon.......... thanks

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